Generator Engine Rebuild (Take 2) - 10HP Briggs and Stratton

This engine I pulled off a Briggs and Stratton Storm Reponder generator. It had run out of oil and the connecting rod seized and broke. I replaced the connecting rod and cylinder, cleaned up the crankshaft and cylinder and put it together. Unfortunately the rebuilt engine had a knock. The crankshaft was out of spec. At the time I did not have the proper tooling to measure things up. Now I do. Lets see if I can get this thing right the second time.
Blown Up Engine Model# 21T212-0116-G1 Code: 110106YD
Crankshaft Part# BS-794718
This engine came from the this generator: • Blown Generator Engine...
Part 1: • Generator Engine Rebui...
Part 2: • Storm Responder Genera...
Part 3: This video
Part 4: • Will It Make Power Aga...
I use Harbor Freight Super Heavy Duty Degreaser in my ultrasonic cleaner www.harborfrei...
Visit My Amazon Store:
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#GeneratorRepair #SmallEngineRepair #SmallEngine #DIY #Fixed #Troubleshooting #HowTo

[@Tom-In-Ga]

Best I can figure is there must be some subliminal messages in these videos that say: "You must watch all Condon videos, You must watch all Condon videos...". I say that because there is no way I'm ever going to do most of the stuff you do but I am totally addicted to watching every one of your vids. You really do make it look like I could do it. But, my wife would disagree. And, to be honest, so do I. Can't wait for your next...wait...hmm. Is my brain being manipulated?

[@comeasyouare4545]

Those storm responders need to have a low oil shut off. I'd rather deal with a faulty oil level switch than a engine replacement.

[@v-g-z3689]

Very well said, I agree!

[@mikesbarn1858]

Absolutely. Every one else does.

[@comeasyouare4545]

@@mikesbarn1858 You'd think that there would be a mod that would screw into one of the oil fills. A lot of those engines have two oil fill location. Someone needs to go to invent help with that one.

[@The_Happy_Aviation_Enthusiast]

Don’t forget about generator safety as well kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2LNhWZ3g6qBrKs stay safe everyone

[@ericd2791]

true they do need one. maybe there a way to put one in. maybe james knows or someone else.

[@stirlingfromla]

I was really hoping that you measured the NEW Crank too....so that we could see the difference.

[@jcondon1]

Should have put that into the video. I checked it and it was exactly where a new crankshaft should have been.

[@robertmailhos8159]

I like your sanding method.on the crank shaft journal you got the skills to make a engine out many broke one,s

[@themowerman]

Good morning James buddy.. watching with a mug of coffee

[@johnraley5713]

Purrs like a kitten. I really needed a generator here in Texas!

[@Tom-In-Ga]

Feel sorry for you guys out there. Hope things get better soon.

[@jcondon1]

If I had the time, would load up my trailer and head down. Not much demand for them up here at the moment. Hopefully things warm up soon.

[@JM-yx1lm]

@@jcondon1 and 2 days later yes, it has warmed up quite a bit ..

[@joetrippi1603]

James a quick question, is it still profitable on this rebuild between the parts and your time...or is this more a hobby...I enjoy your content

[@jcondon1]

This one was a break even on parts and a loss if you factor in labor. Just a hobby, so ok with breaking even sometimes.

[@ronaldbrown5745]

Plus KZbin money if there is any!

[@michaelandrecht7508]

Sir: I am impressed with your logic and trouble shooting . Wish your were a auto shop teacher when I was in school.your a great teacher. I did feel a need to mention two things 1. Back in 1955 chevrolet came out with insert rod bearings Before that old motor manuals showed how to grind, file, sand caps and shim rod to crank for proper clearances. My dad use to fit by feel then we used plastic gauge when it came out. The pressure is on the top and bottom of rod not as much on the sides where the bolts are. Also being oil drip / splash lubrication it actually let's more oil in. This technique always worked for us especially when the engines were not that far out of the spec .by 001 to .003 curing the knock. Of course this was for the old two and a half to three and a half horsepower motors. Bottom line they ran for hundreds of hours afterwards. We put a lot of these mix and match left over used parts motors together for gardeners. 2. We always would use sand paper ( 600 to 1,500 grit ) on a machined flat surface to lap in block and heads surfaces to show and remove warpage and low spots as we only had wire brushes and gasket scrapers which removed more than just gasket material ( softer aluminum back then ? ) Which would lead to head gaskets leaking / blowing after only a few hours ( 20 plus). Not criticism just old school to save a buck and use all the life possible out of engine. Mike

[@michaelandrecht7508]

P.S. I was talking about lawn movers engines not Chevrolet motors just a reference of where to find procedure

[@Rev-D1963]

Your trick of the wet sandpaper and rope to polish the crank's rod journal is quite clever (and effective). I've not seen it done quite like that, and definitely will remember that. Thanks for another great video! Be well, stay safe and God bless. Rev. D.

[@haroldtanner9600]

This sanding method probably removes more material from the middle of the crankshaft journal.

[@kd5byb]

Years ago, I was tasked to determine why aircraft mechanics were breaking helicopter engine to rotor driveline bolts upon installation. When you install a bolt, the critical parameter isn't torque, but the bolt "pre-load" or better said, clamping force from the bolt. Torque is a just an easy way of measuring bolt pre-load or clamping force. What I determined, by the review of literature as well as laboratory testing, is that torque as a measure of pre-load is accurate to about plus or minus 50 percent. Especially when you compare dry, clean threads versus threads with oil or lubricant on them. In my case, if I had a minimum-acceptable strength bolt, with threads that were not perfectly clean and contaminated with oil, threads that were cut versus rolled, and a torque wrench that was at the high end of calibration, a mechanic applying the proper torque could break a driveline bolt! So I'm not surprised that you have seen wide-variation in torque specs on the same bolt in the same engine across different sources of service information. That said, I do feel that using a torque wrench is important and I applaud your rigorous use of a torque wrench in your videos. Not to get the exact amount of pre-load, but to get an equal amount of pre-load. For the engine cover, 100 lb-ft versus 200 lb-ft likely doesn't make much difference. What would be a problem is if you tightened one to say, 25 lb-ft, and others to 300 lb-ft. :) Really enjoy your videos! To close the loop on my story, we ended up raising the minimum strength of the bolts and the breaking stopped. :)

[@jcondon1]

Thanks for the comment. I agree completely. It is more important to get consistent pre-load. You would be surprised at what I see on some of these straight from the manufacturer. Some important bolts are barely finger tight and not torqued consistent. Thankfully this is not an aircraft. I usually go a little light. A stripped out or broken bolt will cause a lot more problems in the case of a small engine then one that is torqued to the max value. And as you mentioned, there are a lot a variables like thread quality, dry/wet, the wrench used etc... I see a lot of people on KZbin using an impact to tighten bolts and that is always a bad idea. There is not feedback on how tight the bolt really is.

[@keithstudly6071]

It's hard to get people to understand the number of factors affecting screw torque and how these all need to be specified. Lubrication and anti-seize treatment applied to the bolt before assembly. The material you are threading into. The type of material the screw is (I.E stainless, carbon steel, etc.). Also plating on the fastener like cadmium or zinc. I always liked to use a cadillac gauge to measure the fastener stretch if I could.

[@donheim5288]

James, enjoy your videos. Did you happen to measure the new crankshaft journal to see how the original dimensions compare to specs ? Thanks for all the time you spend creating top quality videos.

[@philliphall5198]

I bet it’s nearly out of specks or out

[@vinopan5374]

Comstar 99% pure lye on Amazon. Also, would you consider using Sealed Power Plastigage , there are several clearance ranges, to measure bearing to shaft journal clearances? Also found on Amazon. Thanks, love your videos!

[@The_Happy_Aviation_Enthusiast]

Generator safety kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2LNhWZ3g6qBrKs

[@dublindave5795]

On the connecting rod journal, I would have checked with Plastigage to obtain the clearance. Cheap and easy to use to determine if you are within tolerance. Also, I believe that the rod is linebored when manufactured and direction of the cap is only one way or the tolerance will be off.

[@Bill-xc8le]

You stand correct!

[@Bulletman426]

Going to say the same thing. Plastigage is what I would have gone with also. James, I could really use that piston from the used engine you disassembled. Please contact me. Ken gave you my contact information. Thank you sir and have a good day

[@wesouderkirk9079]

IT'S NOT THE SPACE SHUTTLE!

[@queenstownkid]

@@hester781 wtf

[@hester781]

@@queenstownkid kzbin.info/www/bejne/faS0aoukeZ1jnbs

[@hester781]

@@queenstownkid watch the video, at 6 minutes and 30 seconds in lol

[@queenstownkid]

@@hester781 he was getting his point across lol thx man

[@davidduma7615]

* Shpaysh Shuttle

[@joemesser2681]

James rubber hose on piston rod bolts would protect cylinder and crank from scratches

[@robertdavis6708]

I've used cranks farther out than yours. Just run a heavier oil and let it rip. I never had one blow up because of a galled crank. Everyone knows that the lack of oil kills these engines. And by the way. By sending information out like you've got on clearances, I wonder if the people producing small engine performance sheets are building satellite parts?

[@jcondon1]

I agree. I am pretty sure that crank would have been fine. But hard to use with 25k subscribers looking on.

[@rogermcdonald1607]

James, its sad that you had to buy a new crankshaft and it gets shipped in the condition that it was! That should of had all the machined surfaces protected with a rust preventive and packaged to prevent damage. Great rebuild! I wonder if those used cranks were out of spec from the factory. Conflicting briggs specs from the paperwork would make me nervous. 👍🇺🇸Roger

[@philliphall5198]

I sent two back that were brand new Out of specks

[@matthall9093]

Without high dollar precision measuring tools, a second option is to torque the connecting rod to the crank with plasti guage and measure that with the cheap cardboard guage that comes with it and you will know if you have proper clearance

[@jcondon1]

Yes, just did that in my most recent video.

[@michaelbegay9573]

16:55......Maybe that was last crankshaft before production line shutdown for good, n QC already closed shop the week before. 😳🙈🤦‍♂️🤑

[@MrLangDog]

Wow...the bean counters demanded.."no bag around the crank before boxing!!" Save that 2 cents!! But hey..it's a lawn mower part, not a space shuttle part :) ( As another of our favorite youtubers would say! )

[@TestECull]

14:10 I'd still use that crank to be honest. It's within the tolerance of most calipers and the one spot under spec is fairly small. It's worn, but still useable.

[@jcondon1]

I agree. Especially after seeing the "new" crank. Have since picked up another blown 10hp Briggs engine and that crank was perfect. So now have two ready to go.

[@MRrwmac]

@@jcondon1 Good

[@craigdreisbach5956]

Great video. One trick taught to me 50 years ago is to use a 1/2 impact gun/socket in reverse to remove the flywheel nut. Alters the polar moment of inertia required such that you don't even have to hold the flywheel with your left hand with the impact in the right hand. Takes less than a second. No need for ratchet strap. The nut spins right off, but the flywheel doesn't rotate. You won't believe it, but its true. Great also for removing nuts on alternator pulleys, power steering pulleys etc. Kind regards, Craig

[@Skynet-1]

Nice job again! Can't believe it started on the first pull. 👍👍👍

[@lestergillis8171]

That new crankshaft should have been dipped or sprayed with cos moline before packing. Maybe even have one of those plastic mesh screens put over part of it.

[@jcondon1]

Definitely

[@solosailorsv8065]

SOOOOO much better workmanship than what passes for "Factory Refurbished" nowadays !!!

[@stazeII]

Out of curiosity, did you measure the new crank and confirm the Briggs book wasn’t over optimistic?

[@jcondon1]

I did, but don't think I left that it. It was dead on the new spec.

[@stazeII]

@@jcondon1 thanks James! So it let the reject spec, or was above the reject? I suppose I’m unclear on the spec. I figured it was the minimum acceptable value. So if it was that, that means it would quickly wear below that, no?

[@wotknot1757]

Guys this is basically, in a nutshell, for most of us tinkerers, the best OJT / hands-on learning videos along with Ken's channel. What more could you ask for than kicking back in a recliner with hot coffee and never get your hands dirty......or a back ache. Eventually I'm gonna bi*ch enough that James will get a lift table.

[@jcondon1]

LOL. My back and knees are very good (for now). Will have to get a lift at some point. Not long before the big 5-0.

[@jacpost5923]

I have wondered the same thing about working on the floor all the time. Take care of those knees my friend:) great videos

[@Roy_Tellason]

@@jcondon1 You'll pay later for the damage you're doing now...

[@tonyc.4528]

Straight ammonia takes a bit longer, but it eats the hell out of soft metals. It's used in some of the more rugged firearm bore solvents to remove lead and copper fouling. Make sure you don't breathe it.

[@jbgood2209]

Never buy engine parts from Amazon .There small engine suppliers with the same parts cheaper cost better quality.

[@The_Happy_Aviation_Enthusiast]

Generator safety kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2LNhWZ3g6qBrKs

[@JM-yx1lm]

What?

[@er1073]

For as much as you were charged for that crankshaft I would have called and let them know about it there shouldn't have been so much crap on it. But you have taken things from the dead and revived them. Thanks for sharing your video with us, Ed

[@johncourtneidge]

They wouldn't listen.

[@jameshoward7706]

I've been following you for several months and find your methods very instructional. I also appreciate your honesty and determination to provide your customers a fair shake. You are a credit to your profession or hobby in small engine repair. I learn something every session.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@Revoku]

an out of spec crank can be used on a briggs, using a large flatfile or a bench disc sander, take a little off each side of the conrod(the flat surfaces that mate when bolting it together) a little at a time. (would I sell it to someone like this? no. but it does work.) as the crank gets worn it wears an egg shape, usually the conrod does too, this takes up the slack a little, if its not super bad, you can get away with this. my lawn mowers been running the last 10 years with this fix

[@jcondon1]

Thanks for the tip. Makes sense and can only improve things if done right.

[@a-k-jun-1]

Mr James, when fiddling with the governor adjusting tab, I made a tool. Get a piece of 3/8 round bar and use your dremel tool to make a slot to fit the tab about 1/2 inch deep. Make the bar about 12 inches then bend the last couple inches to a 90 degree angle. This way it can be adjusted from the recoil side without removing the tank or fighting anything.

[@RightWayWrongWayandMyWay]

my back hurts watching you. you do everything on the flour.... my back is killing me...

[@UhBuddy1976]

If you’d ordered the crankshaft straight from Briggs, it probably would not have been in that dirty condition . How long had it set on Amazon‘s warehouse shelf though?

[@dirtroadsailing6418]

Have you ever considered putting one of the Harbor Freight Honda closes on one of these generators. May be too expensive?

[@watermanone7567]

They don't have the tapered crank shaft for the generator head to fit.

[@shadowbanned69]

Muriatic acid is just fine..oven cleaner doesn't work as well. As long as you neutralize the old acid it's fine...why would anyone say not to use it??? I've used it many times and it's the best to get rid of aluminum on the crank!

[@silversrepairshop1459]

All those engines look fairly new why were they out of oil and if I would have received the crankshaft from Briggs & Stratton that looked like that I would have been making some phone calls.... Anyway instead of rebuilding I would have bought another engine.. that's me time saving... Great video thanks

[@jcondon1]

They did run out of oil. Buying a new or used engine in working condition would have made more sense. At the time I needed a 10hp engine and no used ones were available. Thought I could rebuild it for $150. Turned out to be twice that. Would not do it again unless I had a good used crankshaft.

[@watermanone7567]

That was an excellent video. I had a 10 H.P. Briggs engines in my shop this month with broken compression release cams, and one 23 H.P. Also one with an exhaust valve guide pushed up into the valve spring in the head. Why are the Storm Responders using that much oil, that they are blowing up? or are people just to lazy to check the oil? Also are you getting any Champion generators in to fix? I had one with a plugged up exhaust spark arrestor and the engine oil was extremely sticky. Had to flush it out four times to clean it up. Thanks for great video's. .

[@kennethrobinson9337]

Mr. James. Good Afternoon?, I like to see how you rebuilt. All those broken generators, but I had a storm responder that is broken. The Connecting Rod. Scrambled And apart of the block Burst out can you help me Replace the block please

[@UhBuddy1976]

What makes these engines run out of oil? just acquired one of these used and it runs like a champ. It is an 18-year-old Generac when it was owned by Briggs so it has this engine and the same set up. I’ve run it quite a bit since I changed the oil and restored it, it had a bad carburetor, and I had to flash the generator. But mine does not seem to use oil. In fact, it doesn’t smoke or anything. I know it’s typical for most engines to use just a little bit of oil unless it’s like a Honda or something but I do keep a close check on my engines and don’t let them run out of oil.

[@JpJp-zd7vu]

Scrolling through my library of you're saved videos & taking notes , getting ready to rebuild a Storm Responder engine . I'm in need of a set of carb mounting studs ( BS-794830) , had to use the ones i had on another Storm Responder resurrection . It appears the Responder series engines use a diff thread pitch stud , than say the briggs on the Powermate series Gens of the same HP.....Bummer . I know i can order the studs , but wanted to chk w you as well , $13 seems a bit much per stud . I have you're Email saved from you're videos information if you would rather discuss \chat that way .

[@HobbyMotorDK]

Great video James - as always. Now know where to go if I get my hands on a blown engine. Thanks

[@paulboomer7109]

James I have torn down new Briggs engines with warrants that were' out of spec back in the 1980s !🔧

[@philliphall5198]

Still happening to

[@dljones61]

well, I blame you, today I did it after watching way too many of your videos I ordered one for myself. Yep, I'm 3 blocks from my neighborhood substation and only lost power 2 times in 35 years of living in this house but because of you, I wanted one of my own. Thanks, James thanks :) Ok, living in Oregon with the fires all around this summer and now with the snowstorms up Portland and the Texas mess I thought it was only a matter of time that I'll need one! But still, I'll blame you!!! Dave, in oregon

[@ojjenkins7110]

I enjoy watching you fix those generators. I have a 1988 Honda EM2000X and if it has a fit I hope I can recall any of your videos to help me fix it, low usage but ya never know. Between you, Bruce Pender and Donny Boy 73, I have learned so much. Thanks.

[@Luisautotech]

Hi, i have same looking blown engine from a 204412-0163-e1 My cylinder, piston and rod are bad. crankshaft is ok . try finding those parts but item is discontinue and local shops doesn't have it , can i have an advice on where to look for? , i refuse to let it go. Thank you in advance

[@freecycling6687]

That crankshaft looked like it could have been a return. Maybe someone "returned" their old one for a refund, and it just got put back on the shelf at the warehouse.

[@jcondon1]

Maybe, but I did measure it up and it matched the new spec...

[@freecycling6687]

@@jcondon1 Oh for sure, wasn't questioning that! Just hard to see how that could have come direct from the factory that way!

[@philliphall5198]

Yep I returned 2 out of 3

[@jimmyers8795]

Perfect parts from manufacturers are a thing from bygone days. You should think yourself fortunate they bothered to put some rust prevention wax on it after machining. You really need to manage your expectations lol. You got the part in a day, reasonable price for what it is, I'm sure it's machined well, it will be CNC after all, and they made sure it didn't get rusty in storage and transport. RESULT!!!

[@DavidScheiber]

just an Idea, maybe on a bad block you can experiment with a low oil shutoff addition.

[@elcomandante9299]

Stop going 2 banana sandwich on that torque wrench. One inch pounds,40 foot pounds who cares. Just tighten em n move on. It's a freakin small engine!!!

[@bertgrau3934]

I understand what you mean about buying something new, and it's not right. Happens in the car engine rebuilding all the time. A friend bought new aluminum heads for a V8 engine, had a machine shop check them out, needed a valve job before they could be installed. We're talking about new heads, cost $2000 and not fit to just bolt on and run. Sad . And frustrating

[@mjpbase1]

One of these days, I'd like to see you do a propane / natural gas conversion on a gasoline generator. Just a thought. Might be interesting.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Me too! Talk to Hue at US Carb, his company makes the snorkel!

[@T..C..M]

Just buy a real dual fuel carb on eBay for $30 don’t mess around with the fire hazards half-a$$ed “snorkel type” conversions, they are complete garbage, just because they run doesn’t mean you’re getting proper air fuel ratios the way a demand regulator carb does.

[@ccroson7935]

James I know you’re a very busy person and you’re very popular on KZbin I am having a very big problem right now with a generator and I was wondering if I could ask you a question

[@philliphall5198]

We tore down a brand New b/s 7.25 the other day just to mic every thing Very surprised that 3 items were out of b/S specks You should do the same and show people the truth

[@joebrock9784]

I don't know whether I can from Ken's volunteers that you trust but I said my grandpa were helping him consult his a** that's old enough that's true for 90 we're in a different internal I mean for 90 years on the middle break soon as he just went with a Box in the ranch and I'm going to the other to the other until they were tight because he said my 100" sounds like nothing specific you ever get ahold of a rod from the Apple market they don't have a little tabs on it if they do not have the tabs on it you have to use lock type

[@jamesdiehl8690]

What's the problem with so many B&S engines. Is it a common problem, or is it a user problem. If it's a design problem, is this one of the reasons B&S is out of business now?

[@thetubeschannel]

Hi James, also thoroughly enjoyed this with my morning coffee, nice way to start the day. Excellent video. I replaced a connecting rod a few weeks ago, at least a 2 hour job. Can't believe those storm responds don't have an oil sensor either. A very satisfying video !! ty

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. They are a good engines. A generator can run for days in end. An oil sensor is not optional.

[@davidkettell5726]

what a ripoff .for engines that seem to blow up regularly i would not expect to by more than $50 bucks.

[@williamwhitehead8362]

Did you put the governor gear in I didn't see that that's a very important piece of the operation of that engine?

[@jcondon1]

It is on the crankcase cover. Was not visible from the angle I was recording.

[@alanb8620]

James I did have the same same concern about the muriatic acid my concern was that I was hoping you were wearing a breathing protector it can cause inseparable damaged to you smelling and to your lungs just wear protective gear and don't spill it, or get it on you.

[@jerrywaters4814]

Muriatic acid etch the polish. So why don't you just take it to a machine shop and have them polish the journals?

[@Mr_Meowingtons]

purple power is all soi sodium hydroxide, just FYI i would Send that crack back for spite..

[@chevyman6837]

The way that one generator engine that you said was knocking the way that one sound it is exactly how the one I had that I was telling you about sounded and it was a Briggs & Stratton five HP Briggs

[@johncourtneidge]

Very good. I wonder if those tolerences are critical. Nice comment regarding caustic soda!

[@a-k-jun-1]

As for the lye shortage, most heavy duty drain cleaners are 100% lye. I use it in a homemade metal bluing solution.

[@mikesbarn1858]

You didn’t show if you used assembly lube on con rod bolts. I do.

[@Bill-xc8le]

Always!

[@davem5333]

Can't find oven cleaner? Because most people have self cleaning ovens. If they use ovens at all.

[@CircleD1]

FYI Drano drain cleaner is Sodium Hydroxide.

[@Cully4x4]

Jim, thanks for including the torque settings in the video. Question: did you decide against getting a hydraulic lift table? Just curious. Nest regards. Jim.

[@jcondon1]

Will get one at some point. Back and knees are still good.

[@karirautio]

@@jcondon1 Will you wait that they are not good before you buy a lift. I have watch a lot of your videos and learn a lot. Thank you very much. Now I have repaired one but not on the floor. I put it on the bench in order to save my back and knees. I think that a lift is a must in your hobby work.

[@philliphall5198]

Seems the cranks are at the limit to start with, had one 10 with only 2 hours and crank was out of specks

[@FishFind3000]

Any chance you could make a detailed video/s testing and trouble shooting generators for repair? Explaining how each part works and what it’s supposed to be and/or known good

[@jcondon1]

I kinda did that, but have not released that video yet. Here is a link to it kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHfPaaGNqJicmJY

[@Marauder92V]

Thanks for providing the torq specs! Not surprised by the condition of the crank. I think these support parts probably sit around a while because we have become a throwaway society.

[@jcondon1]

I would agree. This one probably sat on a shelf for a decade.

[@ricdenali4213]

If you have a machine shop around you might see if it cost effective to have those crank journals built up. Disappointed to see the new crank looking like that.

[@KensSmallEngineRepair]

A-0.010” crank grind with an underside rod will work and be cheaper.

[@jcondon1]

Do not see any undersized rods available on the parts diagram. Where would one go for that? Engine# 21T212-0116-G1

[@jcondon1]

Me too. Will looking into getting them machined.

[@kenhilson786]

Funny if the one you just picked up has a good crank.

[@mcarroll598]

Another great video JAMES! I like that caliper you were using to measure the cam lobes. Also it’s unreal some products that come from Amazon, like that Crankshaft. You would think, like you said,......should be perfect when you buy something new!!

[@The_Happy_Aviation_Enthusiast]

Generator safety kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2LNhWZ3g6qBrKs

[@ericd2791]

that one from amazom is uesed i can tell. or it sat in a cold warehouse, & got wet from being cold.

[@twofeathers6540]

[@piodambrosio1427]

Ciao James, ottimo sistema per carteggiare l'albero motore; ho imparato date un'altra cosa interessante! Grazie!

[@larrykelly2838]

Persistence paid off, another good sounding engine Doc.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@externalaffairsporter]

Just came across your Channel. You are doing a great job. I admire your skill and patience. I am now a full-time subscribed to your Channel

[@jcondon1]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@davidkettell5726]

What kind of idiot lets an engine run out of oil? where did the oil go? do these chinese engines burn a lot of oil?

[@stephengordon8968]

Did you check out the option of getting the cranks polished or cut and buying a oversized connecting rod ?

[@jcondon1]

Still looking into that. I have 5 crankshafts now for this engine that need work. Would rather use those after being repaired then the NEW one...

[@adnacraigo6590]

Another great video. You must have the patience of Job.

[@philliphall5198]

You done a great job of teaching If they don’t get it then it’s not there thing to do 😊😊😊

[@MRrwmac]

James, You have so many of the old engines and have put a couple together, it would be very interesting to us for you to see if you could add an oil low shutoff to a test bed engine? I think it would make for good video!

[@jcondon1]

Have thought about adding one, but the parts new are $100+. Recently picked up a Briggs 9 hp generator engine with an oil sensor. It blew the rod. Not sure yet the reason. Potentially the oil sensor did not work?

[@williammcilrath905]

very helpful vid as uasuale James thanks Bill

[@tedheierman1181]

You do have another option to save the crank with a slightly smaller rod journal. That is to shave the rod cap to close up gap. But you have to measure for proper clearance. Also the new crank looks like a chinese knock off. Just look at how poorly the counter weights were cleaned up compared to the OEM item.

[@jcondon1]

Last time I order a new crank.

[@billhenry7833]

You building a space shuttle?

[@gremlin1396]

Quick question what's the concentration of Is Muratic acid that you use. Is it pool acid straight out of the bottle or is it a different concentration. Also one of your other videos I noticed you cleaning a carburetor what do you use in your ultrasonic do you use chem dip Or do you something like water and Ammonia.

[@jcondon1]

Not sure the muriatic acid concentration. It is sold at Home Depot and made by Klean-Strip. In the ultrasonic, I use Harbor Freight Super Heavy Duty Degreaser.

[@lestergillis8171]

"Sodium-hydroxide" is also know as "caustic soda". It is used by mechanical/engiine/automotive shops to clean FERROUS type parts. NOT ALUMINUM.

[@gremlin1396]

One other quick question do you have another job and do this as a hobby or do you have a small shop doing this. I've seen some of your other videos and you are rather well Knowledged at what you're doing

[@jcondon1]

Just a Hobby. My day job pays the bills.

[@crude4u1948]

For future reference, if you need lye in an easy to use container., Most oven cleaners that say to not to expose yourself to the fumes, contain lye, and it’s a spray.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks for the tip

[@notsogreat123]

Nicks and scratches are ok as long as you knock off the high spots with a file. VERY CAREFULLY !!! What's more important is the clearances,

[@AP-514]

They do not sell over sized Bearings for the Crank ? if so take it to machinist and have him turn the crank. with only 1 Lobe it should be relitively inexpensive. ($20)

[@roseingalsbe6085]

Do you have a machine shop that can regrind the chanks for you ? And bore the rod for bearing that seems to me a better repair than new and for the same cost just a thought 73 n4jrs

[@jcondon1]

Still looking for a local shop. I have at least 5 of these crankshafts that need repair.

[@MrWebb-qw8gy]

A QUESTION FOR ANYBODY I have a PowerMate PMC105007 what should the head bolts be torque to PLEASE ANYBODY HELP???????????????

[@jcondon1]

Looks like a Honda clone. Usually I tighten to 29 ft/lbs on engine of the 389/420 cc size

[@MrWebb-qw8gy]

@@jcondon1 thank you very very much

[@MrWebb-qw8gy]

I have another question the generator has about 940 hours should I have a valve job done, no I've cleaned off the valve and I've cleaned off the head but should I still have it done

[@williamstaten8102]

Try to buy toilet bowl cleaner with hydrogen chloride like the works. There taking it off the shelves along with oven cleaner. Stuff that removes lime. EPA says its bad. So if you want to clean anything your going to need to make your own.. Just Cleaned my toilet with a small amount of muriatic acid.

[@johnlieske8908]

Thanks for the video 👍👍

[@ron827]

It appears the lack of mechanical savy is not compatible with owning a generator. "Check the oil pudden head!" Congrats on your new strap wrench which you will use often, even when tightening the flywheel. Hydrochloric acid and aluminum react to produce aluminum chloride and colorless hydrogen gas so to be safe, do it outside. Love the trick of wrapping some heavy string around the emery paper. :-)