Simplex Load Bank Test

A subscriber found a good deal on a used Simplex SWIFT-E FT 10KW resistive load bank listed on Facebook Marketplace. Thankfully he brought it my attention (thanks Mark!). Load banks are usually very overpriced and I could never justify spending the money on a high priced resistive load when space heaters do the same thing at a fraction of the price. That said, this one was the perfect size at 10KW and the price the lowest I have seen. The condition of the load bank is unknown by the seller. Hopefully it works because I bought it. Lets check it out and put it to work.
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[@redmondjp]

I am very excited for you about this unit! My job involves large stationary generators with permanently-installed load banks (up to 1MW) for both the generator and UPS at the facility. You're really going to love this thing - I would suggest installing it on a garden cart or tool cart (possibly equipped with the gasoline IV drip setup also), with an optional sheet-metal cover to protect it from rain. Then you can wheel it outside easily when you want to test a generator. If you use a tool cart with one or two drawers on it, then you can also have screwdrivers, your meters, and other tools to adjust speed and governor on board. So roll one cart out to the driveway and you have everything on it that you need to run and load-test a generator. For the amount of times that you do this, I would say it's definitely worth the effort. Thanks for your video!

[@jcondon1]

I got a nice cart for it. Need to add a drawer.

[@coreybabcock2023]

Great idea

[@andybonneau9209]

That black box is a contactor. Basically a high current relay. Nice unit! You can replace the mechanical gauges with digital, but using inexpensive multimeters at the taps would work just as well.

[@johncourtneidge]

But I like those analogue needles moving: very visual for these videos.

[@pederb82]

I was just about to comment on that, then I saw you had already mentioned it. It is indeed an contactor. It can break very big loads where an relay would simply weld itself shut after one attempt.

[@coreybabcock2023]

​@@pederb82agree relay's and contactors do the same thing but handle loads differently

[@johncorlett3699]

probably connected through the overtemp cutout as a safety cirrcuit

[@williamjones4483]

@@pederb82 Using a smaller current to control a larger current.

[@firestormv01]

The adjustment for those meters is the little hole on the black portion of the meter. Use a small common jeweler's screwdriver and twist CW/CCW to change value. Best bet is to do it under load so you know what the meter should read and can tune the meter to reflect actual value.

[@bobpotter895]

The analogue meters are very useful to show fluctuations in readings. Digital instruments may give very detailed readings but that does not mean they are more accurate.

[@paultice610]

The device after the breaker looks like a contactor like they use an air conditioning to turn the compressor on and off

[@572Btriode]

And the item at 6:01 is just a high wattage wirewound resistor on a ceramic tube former.

[@gregpfister6991]

Both statements are true. It's a contractor....used because the switches cannot handle those amounts of amperage.

[@generessler6282]

Yeah I think the difference is that contactors have a mechanical toggle action that increases the speed of opening and closing to reduce arcing with high current loads, which this obviously has.

[@johnhershey4010]

That what it is. 50 to 100 Amp Solenoid main to run everything.

[@stargazer7644]

That contactor is what the master switch controls.

[@peterking1134]

The load bank found a home where it will be loved and taken care of!!

[@robertdavis6708]

James would have been a great neighbor to be had when I rewired my 74 Bronco. He's clearly been around electrical equipment in his trade. I enjoy how layed back he is. And the Simplex is an early Christmas present for sure. I often thought he should be using something more compact than multiple space heaters. Thanks James.

[@colingraham1065]

That the sign of a true perfectionist when they clean and polish their test equipment. Superb channel, keep doing what you do please.

[@billwhite4414]

Those meters are D'arsonval movements. The small screw in the center bottom of the gauge is the adjustment. It places or removes tension on the meter spring.

[@colin8532]

Major score on that load bank! I just found your channel about a week ago, and I have to say, I am LOVING your videos sir! You clearly put a lot of time, effort and care into everything you do. Both in your repair work, and in the videos you produce. I've worked on small engines for a lot of years, but my experience with generators is very limited. I am learning a lot from your videos, and I really appreciate the time you take to produce and share your work with all of us. Thank you

[@googacct]

Nice acquisition. It definitely would not take too much to convert it to a digital display. You could even leave the original analog gauges in place.

[@banderson5144]

was just coming here to say this, as long as they are not hard wired and just have posts on the back, should be simple enough.

[@uploadJ]

Ya - having both would be good. Things ALWAYS fail given enough time, temperature and vibration.

[@randacnam7321]

@@uploadJ D'arsonval movement (twiddly needle) meters can also be easier to make sense of for certain transient or cyclically varying loads.

[@gnuorder]

It even looked like the front panel had a round cutout covered up for an additional meter.

[@uploadJ]

@@randacnam7321 45 yrs in the field now, I started with analog meters ... if one really wants to see trends that way, put your storage/digital scope on 1 sec per div and see it all!

[@pete70091]

Awesome. I've been wondering for a while when you would graduate from space heaters to a load bank. We had a large load bank catch fire on the pier in San Diego when we were testing one of our 4 1MW generators after an engine replacement when I was in the Navy. Love your videos. Keep them coming!!

[@danielburke8350]

Garage sale at James' house this weekend! Housewares, furniture, children's clothes, and a WHOLE TRUCKLOAD of space heaters!

[@lv_woodturner3899]

A very nice piece of kit. I wonder if the boat cleats were added by a previous owner. Easier to lift from the top than the sides. Glad the unit worked without issue.

[@ron827]

The boat cleats are OEM.

[@williamfoote2888]

@@ron827How else are you going to tie it up to the dock?

[@paulmoffat9306]

You can do minor 'calibration' on those panel meters - each one has a small adjustment screw in the face, that can swing the needle a little bit left or right. The voltmeter may not show '0' after doing this with no power applied to the unit.

[@uploadJ]

NEVER used those to 'calibrate a meter LOL ... srlsy, used it to set zero though.

[@polishhotdog933]

Beats dragging out all those space heaters by a long shot. Nice find by your subscriber.👍🏼

[@stephenhaslam680]

Looks like a good engineering design and very clean manufacturing inside. I recall those "heating elements" from engineering lab but the ones we played with were big round precision ceramic load resistors and we had a lot of fun with them. Good score James!

[@johncourtneidge]

And nice find by the subscriber!

[@12wingwfetech]

You have moved up you are in the Small Engine Mechanic territory . Nice acquisition for your tool box .

[@MrKeithsplace]

What an awesome score for what you do Jim. I used to use one similar to this only much bigger, was on it’s own cart, think it would do up to 300KW. Also open air rating on that cable/chord is much higher than standard house wire or conduit, romex, etc. Existing wire was silver tined, rated like welding cable, higher rating still. That’ll also make a nice 10KW shop heater in a pinch.😊

[@TheOtherBill]

SmallEngineMechanic has a nice milsurp load bank he picked up. Bit of a beast. It does at least 30KW, might be the same as you had.

[@davidblake6889]

That's a really good buy there, James. Interesting piece of kit. Very simple, but very useful for testing generators. If I had been testing it out at 10kW, I could not help but put my hand over the vent to see how much heat it generated. Guess I'm a bit weird. Love your videos, especially the attention to detail that sets you apart from other KZbinrs with similar content. Look forward to the next one, where maybe you use the new acquisition in the testing phase of the fix.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Amazing tool to acquire James! Quite a bit more expensive than the one that I built but that one is far nicer! Looking forward to seeing it in future videos!

[@justinvanaulen2478]

Nice work Jim, I like something other then a gen set once and awhile, it's a good format. Load banks are no joke and can be extremely dangerous if not correctly set up, but you did it right. I've used heat shrink tubing in those plug housings to add another layer of protection. It really gets tight, but if done correctly, it works. Good find and good video!

[@stargazer7644]

Dangerous? Um, ok.

[@gr8jpn]

Loved this video! In the early 90s I was in the Air Force and I worked on generators.... our test/load bank was basically the size of a small car (and could be towed around like a trailer). Aircraft power is at 400 Hz, and most of the generators were 3 phase (208 volts). So this is a nice add for your shop and fun to see a test bank in use. Thank you!

[@hieyeque1]

Excellent acquisition, now if you could add a full suite of instrumentation where you could see the harmonic distortion, amp load, volts, watts, etc - you're setup would be complete. One console to rule them all!

[@PaulMack1249]

Nice, Jim. Convenient and compact. The ones I researched were much larger and somewhere in the 10K range new. You made a nice score on this acquisition. Now a custom cart with casters and a handle and you’ll have the perfect test station.

[@4Truth4All]

Excellent! A great addition to your toolset and a much better way to run load tests on your generators.

[@derf_the_mule1405]

I am jealous. Since you changed the wiring. Making a note on the device about the 120V Maximum Wattage Allowed will help protect the next operator. That may be you.

[@marcheld]

Congrats on the new find! Looking forward to seeing it put to work.

[@benkanobe7500]

Congratulations on the acquisition of such a fine piece of equipment. Usually, a galvanometer has a small screw on the front cover center of the gauge. It may be black plastic and hard to see or it may be a cover for the real screw underneath.

[@uploadJ]

Yes ... for setting the "zero" of the meter. Unless you don't mind an indication when no voltage is applied to the meter? Most of us prefer to see zero set to actually read "zero'"?

[@benkanobe7500]

@@uploadJ I couldn't agree more. However, he stated he did not see any trim pots to adjust the meters to match a calibrated source (none of his meters are calibrated).

[@centauri61032]

Great find there, James! I've been looking for one myself. I have also toyed around with the idea of building one using a bunch of things like individually switched dryer heating elements, or something like that. I just haven't committed to going that route. Getting something more precision and designed for the task is still preferred.

[@Ed_Stuckey]

6:02 _possibly another temperature sensor right here_ Wirewound ceramic power resistor. Ohm value is likely printed on it. Congratulations on the great find.

[@Conservator.]

That’s a very compact 10kW space heater!

[@LantzLyon]

You should be able to adjust the meter sweeps from the front adjustment screw on the front of each meter.

[@BlakeLeeper]

Nice find! Looking forward to seeing this in more videos. Looks like it might be a candidate for a simple digital display conversion.

[@dw7444]

I've been at a couple of data centers during initial load testing where they bring multiple 100-200KW load testers into the DC rooms and place a full load on the electrical system. They usually know within a few minutes if there are any electrical issues to resolve but will continue running them until the cooling system for the room reaches a steady state so they can ensure the cooling system is sufficient and working properly. They usually also fail over to battery and generator during the testing to ensure that's all working too. The last facility I worked at was estimated to use 10MW of power at full tilt and had enough generators to produce 12MW. If you've never heard 12MW work of generators all turn on at the same time.... it's impressive.

[@Endoplasmic-Reticulum]

I always enjoy weird and obscure stuff you do.

[@dre2992]

You can adjust the dials or gauges. There is a little round cover on the front black part of it. You can pull that off and there’s a little flathead adjuster in there.

[@grahammctygue724]

Yea for James happy for your challenge blessings to All

[@allotmentfornovices8256]

I am not electric savvy my friend but looks like you found a very nice piece of equipment I’m looking forward to see you using it well done

[@ShouldersMoondog549]

that is a nice addition to you tools!! the load bank will really make testing easier that carrying out all of the portable heaters!!

[@bjusticeforever]

VERY NICE! I've considered making a poor-boy's load bank with water heater elements; simply fill the tank with water prior to testing.

[@jcondon1]

I have seen that done.

[@darosa5741]

That's a nice piece of test equipment. Seems inconvenient to have the 50amp circuit inside the enclosure. Sort of a pain in the butt if you have to reset it.

[@stargazer7644]

The only reason you’d need to reset it is if the load resistor fails catastrophically. Not really a big pain if that happens.

[@markgeorge3960]

What a great find! No more hauling space heaters into the yard!

[@ron827]

EXCELLENT! VERY nice addition to your repair arsenal and no more dragging out multiple portable heaters. Just as an FYI, I believe gauges are used in automotive type applications and meters in electrical applications. Don't expect laboratory accuracy from the analog meters plus you have what appears to be a good handheld digital meter. It may not be a good idea to slam heavy loads onto a consumer type generator.

[@emylrmm]

The next time you do those large step changes in load, look closely at that analog frequency meter and note the min/max excursion. Mechanical governors are pretty good, but higher-end (stationary) gensets use electronic RPM control.

[@icey_projects]

There is generally a small adjustment screw in the hole on the front of the gauge itself, usually just a flat head screw driver.

[@daver681]

Good to see that you finally found a load bank if you put a piece of rubber hose around those wires you can tighten them up also the little screws in the center of those guages down near the bottom should fine tune them. good luck

[@gerryj8839]

I always loving seeing the new toys you add to your collection!

[@BettyCarter-s5r]

I would like to say your videos are very instructive and have help ed me start fixing my own generators. keep up the great videos. My husband beleives your channel is the best. I have tried other people but they are not professional. thank you

[@paulstaf]

The thing you point at at 6:01 is a thermal cutoff like what is in a dryer. It breaks the circuit if the temp goes too high. Right next to the heating elements in case the fan isn't on or the temp gets too high.

[@aleblanc3547]

I haven’t finished watching but I’m so glad you finally picked one up. Edit: I wanna say you have the coolest tools AND they always look brand new. 😊

[@rickmartinson5252]

James, I always enjoy your videos. Since the load tester uses analogue meters there is not a lot of true accuracy with those devices. You can adjust the meters on the face of the meter itself. I would connect the tester to the grid and place the system under a small load. The grid will always be very close to 60 HZ. Simply adjust the Amp Meter to 60 HZ and leave it at that. I would do the same for incoming voltage as well. Anything that requires improved accuracy you would simply revert back the DVM for more accurate testing.

[@M-Series-guy]

What a great addition to your shop. This will make testing generators much easier! Congratulations…

[@chriholt]

What a huge win for you! That will serve you well for a long time into the future!

[@My-little-Corner]

Cool addition to the tool arsenal. Maybe if all test equipment mounted or in drawers to test.

[@andreaswagner468]

For problematic Generators (shutting off during load test) it may be clever to have the Fan's (if equipped) powdered trough a separate external circuit. I worked with GPU Loadbanks and these didn't like to be turned off hot at all!

[@jcondon1]

Was thinking the same. Almost stalled a generator since with the load bank.

[@samuelfellows6923]

🧐 Interesting that they put a manual switch for the fans, and a overheat indicator lamp next to it, I was expecting that to be automatic = the fans turned on with a thermostat

[@r8118830]

@@samuelfellows6923 You can parallel them up and do both you know. So then you can just switch them at the start or not. The thermostat opening or closing can then switch the fans on or off or the switch in or out with or without the fans as well. I can think of lots of combinations. I would have to consider how I test my generators before deciding on what I would do.

[@jonminer9891]

Hi, James. I will remember how you used to hook up several heaters to test a repaired generator. Interesting enough. I won't miss them when you use the new load bank tester. Congratulations on being more professional in your future presentations. Thanks for sharing!

[@YukonHawk1]

Evidence tag....sounds like an auction from surplus police raids 😅 Awesome upgrade to your arsenal.

[@larrykelly2838]

Nice piece of equipment to have for testing.

[@ram50v8]

Definitely a nice score even if the meters are out of calibration. A volt meter and amp meter will make it relatively easy to get it calibrated. You could easily convert to digital if desired

[@juxxtapoz]

The "mystery device" I believe is called a contactor.

[@jankro1]

Yes contactor is basically like a heavy duty relay.

[@circuitblog01]

Congratulations. I hope it serves you well and without problems. It is indeed a unit that makes the work easier . As for me only, I built a miniature version of it with a capacity of 3000 watts, with the possibility of connecting to the oscilloscope And the possibility of cooling it with water

[@coolklr]

That is so cool. I'm so happy for you, what a great tool for you.

[@johnnybgoode6466]

Looks like a great purchase James........ It will compliment your other means of testing.

[@acew280]

I believe on those analog gauges The little hole in the front cover at the base of the needle You can adjust the needle with a small regular screwdriver

[@MrKeithsplace]

Definitely going to make it easier than hauling out 4-6 space heaters to the driveway.

[@cliffmauck510]

This is a game changer as far as testing your generators however I still see value in the "bubble light test".

[@stevenhughes6548]

The device you pointed out is a contactor, used for connecting loads.

[@tristanschaper281]

You got a great little load bank - Simplex makes good stuff. I still do the multiple space heaters for testing at my house, lol. You have a great setup now!

[@amundsen575]

Nice unit, analog gauges - easy to adjust . the screw in the front on the meters. Your wire choice is fine as you will never be under continuous load. looks like you have some room on the front panel to install some digital panel meters - bring it into the 21st century!

[@jimmyupson1959]

You can tweak the meters. There should be a tiny screw in the front just below the meter needle that you would adjust to your digital meter.

[@denrayr]

In 120V mode, the neutral current would equal the current on the active leg. There's no need to oversize the neutral compared to the leg. I bet the reason the neutral was oversized was someone probably just cobbled that cord together from scraps they had lying around.

[@denrayr]

@@ameldaquirk3965 great point! I'm on my phone so couldn't read the diagram. If the 120V mode calls for paralleling the legs, that explains the need for the oversized neutral.

[@stargazer7644]

In 120v mode the hots are paralleled. Thats why the neutral is twice as big. In 240v mode the neutral isn’t used except maybe for the fans.

[@brandonnolff1920]

If there has been anything you’ve needed since i started watching your channel it was a load bank. Congrats!!

[@markyoung7470]

A great addition to your toolset James, You have to be proud of the loyal following subscribers you have, When the professor is in the house we come running to listen and learn.Thanks, James

[@timd1833]

I must be losing it! I was wondering about the long extension cord you're going to have to run outside to power the load bank. Must be the 'chemo' still in me. hahaha

[@r8118830]

I just had a look at what the latest version of this model would cost new. It sells at 3800 dollars. 700 dollars was a very good price.

[@doylefrost4314]

James, notice the little opening in the front of the meters. From when I was in electronics school, we had to adjust some of our meters to "PMEL" standards and used a small jewelers' brass screwdriver to make those adjustments.

[@whathasxgottodowithit3919.]

That is a great edition to your workshop

[@ve2cii]

Just started watching the video. This has got to be the most useful piece of test equipment that you now have. Yay for you, good going!!!!

[@jodydoakes8754]

The white neutral wire on the 120/240 volt cord can be the same size (or smaller) as the two black hot conductors. The two hots are 180° out of phase and tend to cancel each other.

[@paulpipek9108]

I was in a test lab for 40 years and may congratulate you for purchasing a good testing tool. It's nice to have all meters calibrated, but in your application it's not essential.

[@thisoldminewithlars5324]

What a winner! That should prove to be an asset to your tool arsenal.

[@bobbyjones2363]

I think in the middle of the gage their is a flat slot to adjust

[@Dave-yo9tt]

D’Arsonval Movements usually have a screw in the front of the gauge. It will fine adjust the movements zero. Good score!

[@rodneymiddleton9624]

Great find Jim!!! This will make testing much easier and efficient. Thanks!

[@gbii2612]

those gauges have adjustment screws right on the front center just below the needle pivot. it looks like a screw to hold the cover on but those are 0v adjustments. neat unit, enjoy your videos!

[@kevinwoodey5978]

the black cover under the meter has a hole in it for a small screw driver to alter the needle position on the meter thus callabrating the display.

[@royhedrick8099]

I can't see very well on the video but most gauges would be adjustable at the bottom of the gauge basically below the needle on the black area, either with a small screwdriver or an allen wrench. and you would adjust them under load.

[@polishhotdog933]

That’s a contactor to switch the high current.

[@RiverratGoRVing]

Nice tool. Keep posting as your info is very helpful to those of us that still do our own DYI.

[@alanpecherer5705]

For strain relief on that type of connector, i always get about a 6"-8" length of flexible plastic tubing (avail at Home Depot, clear or black) and run the indiv wires through it. The cable clamp inside the connector clamps onto the outside diameter of the short piece of tubing. No, it does not super protect against straight-out pull on the indiv wires, but it does a fine job of preventing the wires from levering out of the connector when they are bent to and fro in use. Certainly it will work better on jacketed cable going into a connector or an EMT box, but you get some amount of protection even if its not perfect. Plus, it's very cheap.

[@jamesalles139]

Thanks for the post. (I am envious) I just bought a second radiator-style electric heater for my 'load bank' All 4 Al Gore's rhythm

[@weathermannax416]

You went from aluminum strand wire to copper. That was an improvement right there.

[@swallowinn4410]

Hello James great find and addition to your testing equipment. You went to extensive lengths to replace the lncoming lines to the load bank. I expect it had been permanently installed and the feecd lines were in conduit. I thought you would just buy some heater hose and run the lines through the hose. Good quality hose has braided material incorperated into the hose and would have ptrovided all the strain relief you would need. (You are careful with your equipment and that attitude will serve you well). A nice portable work table as well. Keep the videos coming.

[@Farm_fab]

Jim, the device in the middle that was in question is a contactor. It's technically just an overgrown relay, and its purpose is to turn the current off or on as part of the testing, with a low current switch, as it operates like a starter solenoid.

[@AbcDef-iq4no]

You are lucky you got that thing intact, because it didn't look like it was packed very well. That is the main reason I do not like shopping online from sites like ebay and amazon---you never know how well something will be packed.

[@williamfoote2888]

Isn’t that the truth.

[@brianvinh7777]

Oh my god, you found the great machine to testing the generators without any space heaters. Great video and gain my knowledge.

[@dwight8426]

Thanks for the videos always learning something new

[@dolrr54]

Jim, you need to get over to Harbor Freight and get yourself a couple of the cheap magnetic parts trays. It will make finding your pats much easier. Keep up the videos and the good work buddy!

[@mcg6762]

Amazing you are allowed to run 50A through such a feeble looking plug. I have a 3-phase socket/plug for 11kW here (Sweden) and that socket is massive with very large conductors with protective plastic around everything and that's only 16A per phase...

[@jamesdrew8569]

What a deal. Great score! I enjoy the vids.