SECRETS They DON'T Want You To Know - Do Not Pre-Rinse Your Car

[@bannerrecording]

Im a mobile detailer in Atlanta and for me, I do both (rinse vs. no rinse) depending on what's on the vehicle. For instance, for most normal dirt, traffic gunk etc I will just foam with my pre-wash soap directly. For trucks and SUVs with heavier mud or something like that, I will pre-rinse first, then hit it with a pre-wash foam. I also tend to let the pre-wash foam dwell a bit longer (5ish minutes) and that also seems to help a bit more.

[@morganzoeclanthem2847]

thanks

[@22.250Rem]

I’m not a pro, just a car guy thats been detailing on and off on the side for 15 years but this is exactly what I have landed on as a best practice for me as well

[@ohokcool]

Makes a ton of sense, thanks for the insight

[@CabanaD]

I’m old. We used to use plain water from the hose, dishwasher soap, and a chamois. The only change I made over the years is to car wash soap. My cars look good!

[@shepardsmith3235]

If you have an old crappy car, there is little incentive to do more. If your car in new or if it has been detailed and sealed ceramically or other wise its worth the time and effort to use one of the modern soaps which is designed to properly clean that sealed surface and then regularly use polymer sealants like bead it up to maintain the finish. I do both on my 9 year old Tesla S and the water just beads off and this keeps the car a lot cleaner. The finish is a deep mirror blue and even my wife notices how shiny it is. She got a new Y and we had it professionally wrapped and ceramic sealed and I maintain this with Bead it up and boy does it shine. Better than new. But if you have an old crappy car ,who cares, just wash it and forget it.

[@billg5428]

That will clean but not really help with scratches and shine the paint.

[@SirGregoryPageTurner]

We could only dream of having plain water from the hose.

[@shpfro]

These comments kill me. Everyone knows more than the next person. Imagine if everyone just did what worked for them? I never pre-rinse, only cause someone told me that pre-rinsing can cause loose dirt to scratch the paint. Foam, rinse, foam, contact wash with 5 or 6 wash mitts, no buckets works for me. Just do what works for you.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

💯 But tbh there are a lot of people still learning or new to this so info is important to them to figure out what works for them

[@bigguwapbrixks187]

It is annoying but also informative at the same time.. sometimes you learn from people and some times especially men let their ego get in the way.

[@Boxsta_57]

@autodetailingpodcast with this product in particular should you be re waxing afterwards?

[@autodetailingpodcast]

yes, i would. @@Boxsta_57

[@JackRR15]

I get your point but at the same time, we should 100% be striving for sceintific and accurate information. Like I'm a very objectiuve and rational person right. and with that POV in mind, my view of the whole detailing world is so much is based on gimmicky and marketing instead of actual proof or data and it really sucks. But yeah I guess at the end of the day you are right to people should just do what works for them but yeah

[@roshanmahavithanage6312]

I'm no pro but i think this is text book and it's not voiced out enough. I found something very similar in a dishwasher guide where they say not to rinse off plates as there should be a rough surface for the soap to hang on to. Great job!

[@SilverDomUK]

Bilt Hamber Touchless or Auto Foam are my go to products, tried and tested and safe! Difference between pre rinse or foam is the change in PIR if you pre rinse. Also depends if it's road grime, dust or mud. Mud you want to get wet and then rinse off before any touching!

[@Kynetguy]

BH Touchless is a great product. But it’s very alkaline. (13 or 14, I forget which) so it’s very hard on wax and ceramic coatings.

[@LightofDeneb]

Wish we could get that here in the U.S., but I can't find it anywhere.

[@Kynetguy]

@@LightofDeneb You can. Obsessed Garage carries the Touchless. Just keep in mind, highly akaline soaps are harsh on waxes and coatings and can strip them. It isn't a daily driver wash IMHO.

[@ptzish]

I think this also shows that unless you're willing to break the bank on pre rinse products and waste half a day foaming and dwelling multiple times, you're just as well off washing your car like you always have. I just pre rinse and use a two bucket wash process. No big deal. Simple green is a great spot soak product for anything stuck to your car. Sap, tar, bugs, whatever. It'll safely break it down - and it's cheap. "Extreme" Simple Green is $25/ gal. and you can dilute it 5:1 so you effectively get 5 gal for $25....and when you're done your whole car smells like Jagermeister :)

[@CC_Marauder]

🤮

[@zealobiron]

No professional is using simple green. I had a truck come to my shop with products you won't find at autozone or walmart

[@LightofDeneb]

I have a black car, and I don't touch that paint until I have to. It doesn't take half a day, and it is worth it to protect the paint.

[@SinCityDetail]

I saw a suggestion on another channel about foaming the vehicle before the pre-rinse, and I found it works really well.

[@Jeff-kw8jj]

WOLFGANG WATERLESS WASH ADDED TO FOAM SOAP..Makes water WETTER

[@neilwalker5041]

Yvan explained this method where water is an abrasive and water carved out the Grand Canyon. Personally I think applying a prerinse to a dry car is the safest method. A prerinse can be rinseless wash, a soap, or a stronger cleaner as long as the product offers lubrication when rinsing the product off the car. Thank you for this video over a controversial subject.

[@DiamondDetailingBuzz]

Yessir! I always pre soak with diy rinseless wash let it dwell, and then rinse. Then I will foam the vehicle and do a contact wash with either incredible suds or with Rinseless. Then final rinse and use rinseless wash as a drying aid

[@philipm33]

@@DiamondDetailingBuzzdiluted 256:1?

[@martinp8427]

You got it right with the only exception being that water is not an abrasive, but it is a solvent. At high pressures it can act as an abrasive though. Solvents can dissolve stuff and by adding soap or rinseless, you make the water softer and less prone to dissolve and actually increase it's ability to break surface tension and release stuck dirt.

[@JackRR15]

Yeah every since Yvan said that he lost a lot of credibility from my POV. People have been rinsing off their cars for plenty of times with no other product with zero reported marring.

[@YeahCain2]

Water isn't a lubricant?

[@DetlevRackow]

I prefer to foam first and then after some dwelling time rinse the foam off before I go over the car with ONR and an MF mitt. At the end of the day, what works well for you is the best approach for you.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

💯

[@DaYammie]

The fact that dirt was still there goes to show that hand washing is still the way to go. Elbow grease.

[@RojohII]

My opinion is that one should evaluate both the level and kind of dirt, and choose prewash products and methode accordingly. In the end it's all about being comfortable to start the contact wash after the prewash

[@autodetailingpodcast]

well said, 100% agree

[@oznetyoutube125]

I'm an absolute newbie DIY'er with my first black vehicle and am glad to read Your comment about being comfortable with what you are pushing against the finish. I thought that maybe I was taking the process too far, but I get it. TY.

[@TheJonathchunghk]

I am mobile detailer in HK and I will do both (pre rinse or not) depends on the particular situation. First I think the pre-rinse step is mainly to cool down the panel if iam going to wash a warm car or just under direct sunlight. If so I will go for pre rinse to cool it down to slow the soap dry up in the foaming prewash process. If the car is cool or it isn't under sun light, I will foam up the car at dry for more cleaning power in the prewash stage.

[@imaginova88]

Cool to hear from a detailer in HK! HK has lots of lovely examples of all sorts of cars, hidden away in mint condition

[@jamest3188]

wash chems is basically more expensive version of purple power heavy duty degreaser. It actually has the same ingredients except washchems has a sufactent in it to foam it up. what I use is a 1:5 ratio on p-power to water, and add a cap full of dawn dish soap to it.

[@tmoney17-q1h]

keep up the honest, hard work, and straight forwardness. I've been following you since covid started and got back into detailing my 11 year old car. Some companies just make stuff to sell more that we don't need.

[@metrowash]

I own commercial self serve and automatic car washes and can confirm that pre-rinsing impairs the touch free cleaning process. The product has to be strong enough to break the bond of road film (never heard it called traffic film in my segment of the industry) and by wetting the surface before application you are essentially diluting the product. It appears what you have is the same or very similar product we use in automated car washes. You could buy the products we use in 5 gallon containers for around $100-$200 depending on strength. Many modern sealants can handle high ph wash products. I tested jescar powerlock and if I recall it still beaded well at over ten washes

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Good info. Thank you!

[@biggerthanus7053]

What is the product called?

[@metrowash]

@@biggerthanus7053 The industry term for product that we use is called "high pH presoak"

[@sk8ordie4691]

Reset is PH neutral, their alkaline soap is called lift which is made to be used as a pre wash. Other countries have been using pre washes for years in the US it just hasn’t seem to catch on as much. On extra dirty cars or even cars that I’ve corrected before and I’m trying to keep the paint as nice as possible I almost always use a high alkaline prewash let it sit for 5 mins then rinse, then either just bucket wash or foam again for the wash. Prewash also minimizes any chance of scratching in the rinsing process because it’s encapsulating the dirt that’s being forced off the surface by the pressure washer.

[@Torch4Life]

yep, Reset is ph neutral.

[@focusmicro]

I 1. foam first, 2. pressure wash off and then 3. hand wash with a sponge then 4. pressure wash final time. 5. Use a wet ceramic wax spray and go round the car with dry cloth. Job done, sparkles!

[@MegaVinny73]

With a sponge!? Never use a sponge on your car. Use a mitt or soft microfiber type material. A sponge is a sure way of scratching paintwork.

[@focusmicro]

@@MegaVinny73 I dont have 20/20 vision so sponge is just fine for me! :D

[@Brockthedog315]

I use a mitt but otherwise this is what I do. The hand washing gets it super clean.

[@RICARD01]

Titty Sprinkles!

[@DarthSeanious]

I foam rinse foam again then use a microfibre mit with a 2 bucket method using the foam as a lube for my washmit with soap. Rinse mit often. Then final rinse

[@Scotty_in_Ohio]

I've not used this - I do however use Purple Power Boat RV and Vehicle wash in the same way - as a semi aggressive "strip wash" about once or twice a season or about 4-6 times a year depending on how much road grime and "contaminated" the surface is - in those cases I make sure to rinse my wash mitt after each section and inspect it for things like bugs, grit crap like that and only use the mitt on one car before it gets washed. Like others have pointed out "touchless" really doesn't work except if the car hasn't been driven much and most of what is on the paint is just dust (no road grime)....

[@ramz1455]

I have been hesistant in using Purple Power, any tips on how to use it? ratio wise maybe? thank you

[@a.ced.2052]

I’m really curious if there’s a water drain on that floor???

[@michaeltammaro482]

HAS to be. Each 'tile' LOOKS like a grate and there's no water puddling up. There is a SUB FLOOR with one or more floor drains. I'm not a floor guy but I find it more amazing as to how the visible grate floor can support a CAR.

[@Japplesnap]

​@@michaeltammaro482 I have the same exact floor in my garage and I don't have any drains. My garage floor is pitched a few degrees so the water drains out the door. The water flows easily under the plastic floor tiles.

[@RobVarley]

This is probably the same type of cleaner we use in our shop on our semi’s. we work mostly off-road and it does wonders when you’re muddy. You can literally foam the truck before a rinse and this stuff will get most of the grime off. I use it on my pick up but it can remove coatings if they’re not applied properly. I use turtle wax graphene and it hasn’t stripped it yet.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Nice! Thanks for sharing.

[@MrRaymond1021]

I always wet my vehicle's before soaking it up with soap. Maybe it's because I hear some people say that the paint can be scratched if not wet. I don't know, either way I always wet it and soak it up good with soap. Thanks for sharing.👍👍👍

[@stanleyds88]

Carpro Reset is pH neutral, Carpro lift or descale are the alkaline and acidic ones 👍🏻

[@davidmcdaniel6270]

Thanks! I see he still hasnt corrected himself. So I guess we can throw everything else he said out the window.

[@John-oy7ig]

Love watching the progression of your craft buddy

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Thank you - I appreciate the support.

[@laurastone6578]

I don’t worry about infinitesimal scratches on my car. I spend my energy worrying about whether the engine or transmission is going to continue to operate as needed.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Prob a better thing to worry about

[@spinj56]

Truth...

[@emadreviews]

Avoid pre-rinsing for 2 reasons: 1- the existing water on the surface further dilutes the foam when it hits the car, 2- the pressure of water during pre-rinse digs the dirt further into the clear coat preventing the foam from encapsulating the dirt.

[@brandons9138]

I agree with this so much. Hitting dirt on the surface of the paint with high pressure water is just a bad idea. Water and grit is how water jet machines cut steel. Blasting grit across your clearcoat behaves the same way.

[@edricheson]

Chemicals are not cheep. Thank you for this! Trying to cut cost where I can.

[@paulwatts1704]

Great video - I pre-rinse my cars with a low pressure tap hose first - not my pressure washer - then I use foam followed by a pressure wash. The logic being that if I pressure wash pre-rinse there is a theoretical risk that the water under pressure might act on larger dirt particles and damage the paint (a bit like sand blasting). I have no evidence for this of course but it seems logical!

[@ryeguy88]

Many have already said it. Foam on dry, then rinse off, foam again, go to contact wash. Don't rinse grit off with water alone if you're concerned about scratching.

[@bigdaddysshop8180]

I NEVER rub anything on my paint after i wash it. I spray with foam cannon, wash with soft mitt, rince then blow dry.

[@_Ezio__Auditore_]

Obviously, there are multiple scenarios in which a pre-rinse might be effective or not. But in the case of the vehicle tested here, where it does appear to be a "wash" between the two, it also appears that it also might have helped to let the pre-rinse side soak for a minute. It looked very dry and giving the water a bit more time to soak into the dirt, thus making the pre-wash soak through the grime slightly more quickly (and possibly more thoroughly) before running off.

[@nicksdragon6929]

I have stopped pre rinses and now use a pH neutral cleaning soap like Griot's Surface wash which after trying so many others, simply dwells longer than all the others and after rinsing is the cleanest. Then I apply an alkaline product (sprayed, not foamed) let it dwell for a minute and refoam. The foam I use as additional lubricant for my contact wash with TW Pure. If it is a weekly maintenance wash. I stop after the he single foam application and blow dry.

[@FaStayKnight]

So i guess if your pre rinsing, your pushing the dirt and stuff around with no lubrication in theory, but if you foam first your letting the soap encapsulate and lubricate the surface lessening your chance of scratching, in theory.

[@jeffclarke5497]

Very nice presentation with a lot of good info. I've been using Wash Chems Pro 50 over a few washes. I'm happy with the way "most" of the larger dirt particles, bugs, etc are removed. Still have to do a contact wash which, because I'm an amateur, means a fair risk of scratching. I'm trying Stars and Stripes from Chem-X to compare. Maybe Super Soaper will be up next. Anyway, much appreciate your efforts and clear, professional presentation. Cheers.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Looking forward to you trying out the super soaper!

[@worldview2888]

I am COMPLETELY recommend my personal routine (i have watched so many car detailing videos by now from many different channels) - 1) one round of water spray importantly the front and lower portions of the vehicle. 2) foam cannon + rinse (sometimes i even leave it for about 5 minutes then rinse it off with the jetspray.) 3) FOAM cannon AGAIN and then clean the car using certified microfiber towels ** NOT ** wash mitts. Then rinsed off with the jet spray. it has COMPLETELY worked like an ABSOLUTE CHARM where i even impressed myself.

[@p4rtstv]

Let the rinse vs. no rinse battles begin!😂 I am a pre-rinse washer most of the time but I dont use a power washer. I do have one to be honest. Not even sure my pre-rinse even counts as a true pre-rinse because I start by spraying it with a foam cannon, then rinsing it off before foaming it again. After that, I use mitts to wash it like normal. I don't use buckets. The main reason I dont use my power washer is so I can run a water filter because the water where I live has a high mineral content that tends to leave deposits when I don't use it. If you use a power washer, you need either expensive high-flow special filters or DIY your own, both of which can risk damaging your power washer if you're not careful. I understand some people claim that water filters don't work, and trust me, I was skeptical too. However, I conducted a very "scientific" test🤣 by washing one half of the car with a filter and the other without like Jim, and I could feel the difference during the drying steps. Also, it is possible that depending on where you live a filter wont help you as not all tap water is the same and might need different kinds of filters or processes to "clean" it. The second reason is that, although I have no evidence for this, I believe power washing turns the dirt and grime into a makeshift sandblaster, especially here in the desert where I live. I believe to just do what work best for you. I love detailing my car.

[@leardi58]

Hope to see a part 2 with this product washing with a mitt how well it works plus up in the northeast we are looking for something that will get the salt off alongside all road film etc. Trying to find a perfect recipe for winter in the rust belt . thanks for sharing and looking forward to future videos

[@autodetailingpodcast]

great idea!

[@joevanseeters2873]

Thanks for the info Jimbo! I saw this product on the internet recently and was wondering how well it worked or didn't work. Your video answered my questions! Thank you sir. That stuff looked like it foamed absolutely incredible! Nice and thick. I think you are right though, spray down the dry vehicle and let the product dwell on it for a couple minutes. The strip wash function is what I would probably use it for. Looks like it could really break down some dirt and road film. That stuff definitely seems to have some merit for certain situations. Not sure I would use it as a touchless wash because it would probably strip down whatever protection you have on it if it's not a full blown ceramic coating. It would probably strip wax and sealants right off so you could only use it in those situations when you wanted to strip off everything prior to a new product being applied. I had all sorts of hope that it would be a great product, but just from your short little test there, it didn't look like it did a very impressive job breaking down anything. Both sides looked almost identical. I'm sure it's probably a great soap, but it looks like it needs some agitation to work effectively as a soap anyway. I think i'll pass on this one and stick with something like Bilt Hamber Touchless.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

thanks for watching!

[@johnm948]

I timed the amount of time each side was foamed. The non-prerinse side was from 3:12 to 4:08 (56 seconds) with a bit of foam going over to the pre-rinse side. The pre rinse side was foamed from 4:08 to 4:41 (33 seconds), then there was more foaming on the non-prerinse side from 4:41 to 4:52 (11 seconds). So essentially the non-prerinse side was foamed (about 67 seconds, but take a bit away for hitting the prerinse side a bit) almost twice as long as the prerinse (side 33 seconds)

[@MrTheomighty1]

Loving the fact that you can wash your car in the garage 👍. I have my Vw passat ceramic coated by my detailer when required, it looks good when it’s clean but as soon as it rains it looks awesome to watch the beading effect but it’s when it stops raining and the sun comes out and where the sun has dried the water beads it leaves dirt marks, how do you stop this from happening surly ceramic looks good but isn’t the best, someone needs to make a product where the water sheets off. I have purchased a battery powered leaf blower to blow off as much rain water as I can after it’s stopped raining.

[@Mr.Jones1983]

I've often wondered if these products go against our age-old remark of saying that automatic "touch less"car washes are harmful to paint finishes because of their alkalinity. But now we are using, basically the same chemicals in our shops as "strip washes" Because, regardless if we want to admit or not, a touch less car wash can do a pretty darn good job of getting a dirty vehicle clean..

[@scottmattern482]

Good point, but I think there are significant differences that shouldn't be overlooked. Doing a decontamination wash with not ph neutral chemicals and running your car through a touchless autowash every week are very different things. As detailers, we have the knowledge, care, and techniques to minimize risk when more caustic chemicals are used on a vehicle. Apart from the regular exposure to harsh chemicals, who knows if a carwash is maintained properly, if the dilution of their chemicals is in a normal range, etc. I don't think we are being hypocritical by using acidic or alkaline products when they are needed, but still preach the dangers of automatic touchless washes.

[@Mr.Jones1983]

@scottmattern482 OH believe me, I know we're definitely more controlled than any automatic carwash ever could be. I think what I was trying to imply was the fact that over the past few years, you keep seeing more and more of these touch less pre wash products and as they evolve, they keep rising on the ph scale. Yes, obviously our investment is most definitely more controlled but, where is the stopping point of these products. Bilt Hamber touchless for example is sitting at a ph of 15 and damn near cleans a vehicle spotless; so you have to ask yourself, what is the ph level of the chemicals used in a carwash... that was basically my point

[@autodetailingpodcast]

I’ve also seen some horrid things with water spots on glass from touchless washes over a long period of time.

[@laurapalmerTDGE]

What is explained in this video is something we have been doing all our lives in Europe. It's a time to get rid of the hype and stop the trends. Pre-rinsing never needs to be done, unless in case of heavy mud, for example. Allow the pre-wash detergent to immediately absorb into the dirt, followed by applying the product. Afterwards and after rinsing, do a contact wash. A prewash never removes more than 95 percent. The one below from Nerta is alkaline but will never, ever cause damage or stains because it is a well-developed product from a company that has been making this product for 40 years. I use it as a pre-wash every time. And no, it does not affect the sealant or wax. Alkaline pre-cleaners, such as Nerta Carnet Jumbo, exemplify the positive impact of choosing the right product for automotive cleaning. Nerta Carnet Jumbo is specifically formulated to provide powerful cleaning action while maintaining a balanced pH level suitable for various surfaces on vehicles. Unlike harsh alkaline products that can potentially damage paint, plastics, or other materials, Nerta Carnet Jumbo is designed to effectively break down tough dirt and grime without compromising the integrity of the car's surfaces. Its moderate alkalinity ensures a thorough cleaning process, making it a reliable choice for those seeking to maintain their vehicles in optimal condition. The key here is to highlight that Nerta Carnet Jumbo represents a responsible approach to using alkaline pre-cleaners. Car owners can trust in its ability to tackle stubborn contaminants while being mindful of the potential risks associated with heavy alkaline cleaners. By choosing a product like Nerta Carnet Jumbo, enthusiasts can strike a balance between effective cleaning and the preservation of their vehicle's appearance.

[@ItsMeYourRealDad]

​@autodetailingpodcast Bilt Hamber touchless has got to be the best yet safest prewash product on the market that has the added benefit of being environmentally-safe/biodegradable. They have just released a new glass cleaner too, it is the best glass cleaner on the market by far, and I never thought a simple glass cleaner could be all that special. It really is next-level.

[@joemontero725]

Simple but good test jimbo. What is that water sprayer. Thanks.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Thanks! Just an electric pressure washer.

[@mikek8986]

i spray Wizards bug release on my car while it’s dry.. let it dwell for a minute or two then rinse off.. garden hose foam gun with Wizards Max Foam Wash, a few different microfiber towels and one rinse water bucket with a grit guard that i’ll change out a few times depending on how dirty the car is.. works great no scratches or swirls

[@jackasmaryan1776]

I've been using this for over a year i spray it on dry from the bottom up let it sit as long as i can without letting it dry then rinse thoroughly also from the bottom up & it's safe for coated cars

[@Mainbusfail]

I am a professional car detailer / corrector.

[@henriks5008]

6:55 That is why you always start to high pressure-was (after foam), from bottom up and not top to bottom! Then when washed, you rinse from top to bottom.

[@XX-tz6di]

So I’m not an expert. Just a regular dude that likes to keep his car very clean. So I rinse it with cold water via a hose. Then I spray with citrus pre wash and sit for 5 mins then rinse. Then snow foam for another five mins then rinse. I then wash with a ph neutral wash and then rinse and blow dry then towel the car. Easy and simple and not that hard work. One time paint correction done and a ceramic coat. Then every 18 months I get a professional ceramic coat done and a top up every 6 months and I get so many compliments that the car always looks really clean and so smooth.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Sounds like a great plan!

[@mustangracer5124]

Anything stronger than the car wash soap will eat the wax off your car.. best to just high pressure rinse and wash gently with car wash soap.. i use a wax and dry every time and my paint on my old truck is perfect after 16 years!.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Big fan of wax and dry!

[@billtinnell2206]

Totally agree! Any type of car wash whether by hand or machine is great for a nice shiny car as long as you use any type of a quick wax EVERY 4 to 6 weeks during the year. Also hardly anybody keeps their car over 5 years so it's time for a newer model that looks better than your old piece of crap car that you didn't take care of.

[@jasonbrown5376]

Awesome video. My foam cannon would have ran out of soap... i wish mine lasted like yours.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

It’s a good one. I have a vid on it.

[@jasonbrown5376]

@@autodetailingpodcast I'll check it out. I have mjjc pro.

[@johnnyv5995]

With winter approaching and sticky road salt and other road grime I decided to do a full touchless wash using Bilt Hamber Touchless. I used a pump sprayer on half the car and a foam cannon on the other half and NO pre-rinse on either side. Pump sprayer won, I believe foam cannon dilutes the soap too much or does not put enough of it on the car to eat away the road grime. Used leaf blower to dry it off. Overall, contact wash takes me 30min to complete and give me the 100% result I want, pump wash will take me 1/2 the time and give me a 70% result - good enough for winter results :)

[@emilioavila844]

you dont want to use touchless all the time, just ceramic coat it yourself or use a good wax and grime wont even stick so bad to be using touchless

[@johnnyv5995]

@@emilioavila844 Why not? Car is ceramic coated, will try using a gentler mix so that is does eat at the coating. I was thinking of trying ONR next, spray it down, let it dwell and then rinse off.

[@emilioavila844]

@@johnnyv5995BH its strong it will destroy coatings and plastics faster, just get a ph neutral shampoo for maintenance

[@fcnghkkc1]

​​@@johnnyv5995use ratio 1-2% PIR instead of 4-5% for weekly as Touchless is still a ph 13 alkaline foam. The cutting power is still more potent at 1-2% PIR than normal foams.

[@AAE-cg1il]

Over the years I have found that there are good prewashes……but not great. I look at it as removing some of the grime is still worth it…..it’s less stuff that can scratch the finish…..but touchless is a dream that will probably never be realized.

[@005AGIMA]

My Porsche has a protective layer of dirt at all times.

[@timheffron5849]

Great presentation and I was very impressed with your foaming machine. Mine goes through a quart of solution in pretty fast order but yours looks very frugal. Can you let me know what brand it is and/or where it can be purchased. Thanks

[@alwaysbeeurself]

Cool experiment. They look the same to me, I'd say it would have been good to use two separate cloths and show side-by-side differences.

[@mgdunn7440]

Good demonstration, but lost part of your conversation around the end...reference to carpro reset. So, is CarPro Reset on the heavy alkaline side and corrosive, or were you referring to the tested product, WashChems?

[@charlesludwig9173]

What this video suggests to me is the product does not remove road film and thus what’s the point, since contact cleaning is still needed, and that is best served agitating soap with a hand mitt before rinse and dry via blower and towel.

[@WildDisease72]

Always pre-rinse. Have you ever washed a dish or pot using dawn with vs without water? With water is always 1000% better

[@autodetailingpodcast]

You saw Dawn come out with its foaming spray to pre soak dishes right?

[@stvnsnton]

Ive used Wash Chem on my Tesla before and although it’s a great touch-less soap, it negatively affected my protectants especially graphene ceramic coating and discolored plastic, paint and metal parts of the car. Made my red caliper looks really faded and left streak residues that wont come off.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Noted. Thanks for the heads up.

[@WoundmanTV]

This deserves more attention. I've tried Wash Chem, and while it cleans effectively, be cautious with different materials - some plastic trims and coatings on my vehicles discolored. Also, a heads up: if you're using soft water, it amps up the cleaning power, learned that the hard way...

[@stvnsnton]

@@WoundmanTV I use deionized water, that's probably why the cleaning power was so strong. I now dilute it to half of the recommended ratio and mix in regular car wash shampoo. It still works great especially removing brown tires.

[@HemiMuscle]

I would just re foam the car regardless if i pre rinsed or not. Especially if the vehicle is really dirty.

[@gregmannos]

Thanks for the video ! I've wondered this before myself.

[@nadiussilva9416]

10oz of that stuff is crazy I'm sorry but dang I only use 2-4 oz of soap in my canon you said its a 32oz bottle so you literally get 3 washes out of that wow that's insane I hope that stuff is cheap

[@shepardsmith3235]

it takes very little time to power rinse a car before it is foamed and washed if you have a pressure washer. You should always do this to the wheels as they get the dirtiest along with the under carriage of the car. And always do your car in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the sun. I also have a pro air cannon with an air squeegee attachment which leaves an absolute mirror finish. I also layer Bead it up after every few washes or you can use any of the really good ceramic coating enhancers. This will enhance the color of the paint job and deepen the mirror finish. Ive done this to our wrapped Y and it makes the finish almost a true mirror finish. Its incredible. The products they have today are amazing and you should never ever bring your car to a car wash if you possibly can. I use the best of everything on my cars and it really shows. My S is a 2016 and the finish is an absolute mirror finish with depth and looks better than a new Tesla S and its not close. Look if you are going to do it, then do it right. Period.

[@dave1956]

I’ve been detailing cars since the early 1970’s. I find all of this very interesting.

[@monker4697]

Back in the 70's my dad (who was a painter at a dealer) taught me to never use soap when I cleaned my car.....unless I was going to wax it after. The same thing here,..but you would also need to redo any coating you had on your car. I had my Mustang professionally silicon coated so I would never use a product like this....I only use soap rated for coatings.

[@asn1215]

@autodetailingpodcast i can say with experience and trial and error that pre-rinsing does dilute anything you apply afterwards and depending on what chemical it is it can severely reduce its effectiveness. Ex: for years ive used formula 21 for cleaning wheels and tires, it is extremely potent and if you spray it on plastics such as trim and let it dry in the sun it wil discolor it. However its excellent at cleaning tires but if you spray it on dry and just rinse it, it actually works better than pre-rinse, applying, and then scrubbing with a tire brush. Thats a significant difference.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

I think that’s a great example of how pre rinsing could be helpful! Thanks for that tip.

[@joestewart8966]

Hey man, at the end of video I think you were trying to talk about Carpro Lift? Car pro reset is safe on sealants! Carpro lift is not. Either way it was a great video man.

[@JaysHobbys]

My train of thought (and it can be wrong) is i do not presoak. I foam on a dry car to encapsulate any fairly loose debris in the soap so it comes off easy when I soke it with the preasure washer so as to minimize any scratching. Then I foam it again then hand wash if needed. Not sure if it is good practice or not bit it makes since in my mind.

[@erictenwestenend868]

I don't want my wax being stripped off when I clean the car. I use Bilt Hamber Touchless working perfectly. Using Bilt Hamber surfex HD if I want to strip the wax or Bilt Hamber auto wash for normal wash

[@Saddedude]

Also carpro reset is PH neutral, LIFT is barely alkaline, descale is moderately acidic.

[@-JonnyBoy-]

If that chemical must be put in a special bottom because it can eat through some plastics. What does that do to your clear coat?

[@autodetailingpodcast]

The only thing is when in the bottle it can sit for a long time and it’s fully concentrated which it wouldn’t be on your car. But it can definitely still harm things so you gotta be careful.

[@STEALTTH7]

Spray foam and let sit, power wash off, foam each section as I wash by hand with a bucket of soap. Move section to section, top down.

[@STEALTTH7]

when water is sitting on the car before the foam, it's watering down and interfering with the soap staying in place. I stopped pre-rinsing years ago. Now, if you don't have a foam cannon, then yes, pre-rinse.

[@JenMarco]

I thought there was a noticeable difference and the pre rinse side had less dirt on the first swipes. I would think pre rinsing would be better but that would also dilute the cleaner so it’s just about preference. Whatever you want to do and what makes you happy

[@randyvalenzuela5336]

Hey Jimbo, what happened to the Cerakote ceramic coating review? I feel like I finally found an honest review and then boom it gets taken down. Did they make you do that? I love your videos btw keep up the great work!!

[@autodetailingpodcast]

I will eventually say what happened. But for now I’m gonna let people use their imagination. My honest reviews won’t stop tho. I’m re planning that video.

[@E85_STI]

I just bought that MJJC 3.0 foam cannon and it did pretty good for how it came stock but I’m going to try the other orifice out to see how foamy the soap gets. I noticed if I dump in a lot of soap it will foam good but like in your video it calls for a lot of soap but yours sprayed really nice. I’m also using a gas pressure washer with the required 2.4 gpm. I always prerinse but I wonder if that breaks down the soap quicker and reduces the shaving cream look.

[@YoutubeAnthony]

Yes I found that it dilutes the soap a little and doesn’t look as thick when applied dry. I foam, rinse, foam, contact wash, rinse, dry.

[@CC_Marauder]

Given the option, always use the 1.1 foam cannon orifice for more foam.

[@1kontrabida]

The soap used which is Wash Chems Pro 100 is high in alkaline, for the condition of the paint prior washing i would opt for a lower ph aka acidic carwash soap because the dirt is mostly inorganic.

[@ThisOldDetailingDude]

Great video! You may want to try the Chem X brand instead of the brand you used today. It’s been shown in numerous videos & in my experience gets better results. Appreciate your channel.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Will def try it. Thanks!

[@detailit]

Hawaii Tim; you are accurate sir!

[@ChemX]

Heck yeah now we’re talkin😁👏❌

[@mocheen4837]

There are times that I just rinse my car since it is ceramic coated as I park some cars outside. It is also more work for me to pull the pressure washer out and load the foam cannon.

[@shanepennington7226]

We’ve been testing and developing our product line with this idea in mind, Jim. Glad to see someone else is experimenting. Better results have been with a high pH foam (organic contaminants) topped with a low pH foam (inorganic contaminants) and then rinse. Topped with a foam drying aid and it’s 😘. I wish I would’ve gotten video of it, but I just put it to the test on a vehicle yesterday that has no coating, traveled from Illinois to Texas and was covered in road salt. Came out even better than I expected. Is it a timesaver? Debatable.

[@startingtech3900]

Good to see a video like this go semi viral or definitely viral for jimbos channel. was surprised to see over 300,000 views for a pre rinse vid. Nice new shop man?!

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Just re painted!

[@AK-ky3ou]

I’ve come to the theory that if you have water down (pre rinse) it’s going to have a hydro layer between the paint and the cleaning solution, if you spray the solution on a dry car, you have the solution easily encapsulating the dirt and grime on the paint.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

makes sense. would be inline with my findings too.

[@ShashYo]

@@autodetailingpodcast is it not just that you are cleaning off a lot of the dirt in the prerinse? i doubt it's that differnt in impact

[@TraumaChaplain]

When would you add in a iron remover spray into the process?

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Sometimes if the car is cooled down I’ll do the iron first, foam on top, then rinse everything off.

[@killsbugsfastreallfast]

@@autodetailingpodcastthat is a great recipe. That way iron remover can’t dry on the car.

[@oznetyoutube125]

Great Information. I recently acquired a black pickup. The first black vehicle I've ever owned and for me, keeping it as scratch-free as possible has been the stuff my nightmares are made of 😄. I've watch a bunch of videos, including yours ( Thank You for sharing this info ) ! and my newbie method of touch-free maintenance washes has been: No pre-wash (I didn't want to dilute the product ) and meguiars gold out of a cheap harbor freight foam cannon and leaf blower drying.... This seems to remove enough rainy-day road film to freshen up the truck good enough for me. I also bought 6 soft wash mitts to manually remove dirt with. For those washes, I use the same Foam/Dwell/Rinse method, then add a second foam before hand washing. So far I'm happy with the results, but am still learning. I can't wait for spring to come, so I can try my hand at a ceramic job. I think that the Wash Chems Pro 100 Touchless Car Wash might be a good first step prep for that ( but will learn more before I jump in ).

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Black is a ton of work. But seems like you’ve been meeting the challenge

[@charlesludwig9173]

I have a new 2024 black Chevy Trail Boss. What works is rinse, hand wash with Turtle Wax Ceramic Cleaner/Sealer, and leaf blower dry. No scratches and then I apply F11 PRO for deep shine and protection. For speed and more scratch resistance I am going to try Turtle Wax Pure Shine via cannon.

[@autofreshmobiledetailing]

Can you demonstrate using the same product but this time outside.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

For sure - it would be the same.

[@joevanseeters2873]

Does this product strip off any waxes or sealants? Being an active wash, what PH level is it. Most of the active washes are a high PH solution which will strip off waxes and sealants.

[@fredbuchanan2560]

Where in CA are you? High Desert here.. Getting a RAM RHO in a few months (Ordered, thinking 6mo.) Dealing with detailing information overload with all the products available. Keep coming back here. As a beginner to ceramic coatings, I'm leaning away from the 30-second flash off products. Too old for that sh*t... I dont move that fast... Think I'll be ordering your stuff for my first go around.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Thanks - I’m in Orange County.

[@Decon89]

Who are they? Touchless wash. Never works for people who drive 100km+/day and in shitty weather. Show me a touchless wash that can clean a car that has been driven 800km over two weeks in shitty weather. Love to be proven wrong!

[@emilioavila844]

Actually they work better on dirtier surfaces, they remove caked dirt and mud, how do you think they wash semis? it DON'T work for most of us because we want that full clean surface and that you cannot never achieve without a contact wash

[@Chris-ut5ih]

Wait, I was told by a carpro salesman that carpro reset was ok to use weekly on a ceramic coated car. Is that not correct?

[@autodetailingpodcast]

It def works but I did notice after about 8 months of doing the same that it was a little harsh to plastics and such. Just my experience over many months.

[@cowboy124aa3]

The one reason I think you got more dirt on the pre-rinsed side was that because you put down a lay of water onto the paint surface and then the foam cleaner is not actually 100% touching the dirt on the paint it has a layer of water between the dirt and the foam. Not pre-rinsing it you put the foam directly onto the dirt and actually clinging to the dirt that is on the paint giving you a better result with not pre-rinsing.

[@Elfin4]

What size spray nozzle do you use and what is the jet wash pressure?

[@PFinkoloTL87]

Hello, what can be done against insect poo on the car, when it's already burnt onto (and not into) the paint by the sun? I have tried a lot of things. Elbow grease takes it off slowly, using polish or clay. Both would take up to 10+ hours to get the car clean. Not doing it though, since it looks the same after 2-3 days. If there's insect poo on the car and it rains, then gets dried by the sun, it's over. I have tried some chemicals, ph neutral flash runst remover, vodka, and a window cleaner with an ethanol - isopropanol - ammonia blend (almost scorched the skin on the back of my hands damnit). Frikkin nothing dissolves the burnt poo so I could just wipe it off, it just helps a little bit trying to forcefully rub it off with a micro fiber towel. I've heard of acidic wheel cleaner - would that possibly dissolve this 'dirt'?

[@diegoavila5057]

Love your videos, I was wondering if you have used stars & stripes from ChemX

[@autodetailingpodcast]

I have not. But someone else recommend that brand so I’m gonna have to try it out.

[@ktcjosh]

would foaming with alkaline solution, rinse, foam with acid solution, scrub then final rinse be good?

[@jeffreyberry722]

Would this be too much for a ceramic coated car. Would it break down the ceramic coat?

[@autodetailingpodcast]

Nah. It would be fine on a ceramic.

[@jgoodwin528]

I've always pre rinsed when washing. I really expected more difference. Looks like I'm just wasting time really.

[@sweezypzb]

crazy how he was able to do the entire car and go over it more and still have so much more soap and water.

[@OhSoddit]

I DON'T WASH my car. Period. It's reached a "balance point" where it doesn't get much dirtier, and it doesn't get much cleaner when it rains. The car is happy. I'm happy.

[@autodetailingpodcast]

It’s a good spot to be.

[@alanmckay2384]

I love the effort that you put into your videos very inspiring and informative, I used to do a pre wash but I haven’t done it in a long time I just let the chemicals do there job lol, I have one question for you, if you will indulge me I find it hard to get a decent form lance what type you you recommend, keep up the great 👍

[@lgdamefan]

how many microfiber towels do you typically go through during your drying process post wash?

[@Ichabod_Jericho]

Of course you should go straight to foam on a dry car. Water alone is not a great solvent or surfactant. The soaps are far better at being surfactants & solvents. Also; just a waste of time & water to not go for a foam bath, pressure rinse, one bucket+ grit guard + 3 towels.

[@tyronec.6331]

Own a detailed company for the last 30 years and nothing and I mean nothing substitutes for elbow grease a good Degreaser and a pure wool bonnet to clean and wash the vehicle I watch Ferraris I wash trucks and that is the only way to make them look sparkly perfect foam is a waste of money it's bad for the environment and it is bad for putting it back into the water system!

[@JJS432]

Koch Chemie MSN or VRB (in the EU) does a much better job as a prefoam.

[@pkerry12]

I use a touchless carwash never touch the car i also have paint protection so scratches just don’t happen