John Deere 1050 Hydraulic Woes Continue, Screen Filter and Fluid Replace

[@austinr09]

My 1050 fluid looked just like this. Found out one of the cylinders on the loader arms that sits at about a 30 degree angle was letting water in the system past the outer seal.

[@SteeveeDan]

That's a great diag. I never even considered a bad ram seal letting moisture in.

[@johnserrano9689]

I had an issue as well on my 88' 1050. System was gunking up, worse than I thought, changed fluid/ filter and all that. Before that though I ran I think additive from Seafoam for hydraulic fluid, conditions seals cleans and removes water. I cycled the living hell out of it. I ran the old fluid through a paint filter, instead of using the recommended 1 can I ran 3 cans. I got her warmed up good, cycled the hell out of the front end loader cylinders, power steering, and the backhoe. Shut her off let her sit for a night. Fired up next afternoon and drained everything, replaced the filter (again) and replaced with the VP brand hydraulic fluid from tractor supply With "booster" Knock on wood pray to God I have been far far far far more impressed with rediculous Results! I know how foolish I sound but the fluid "flush" with the conditioners and all that, then good quality fluid (idk if "Lucas booster" helped) but it cycles almost if not as fast as say a 1070. And theres no two ways about it she gained power. Honestly no idea how much but I'd say it'd be identical to the factory upgrade of the old 9cc pump to the 11cc pump, or 6.75 gal a min to a full 7.5 gpm. My model 75 loaders pins have pathetic slop in them. As you know man I NEED the joystick upgrade. And I really need to find a oversized pin kit for it or something. Also do you know what bucket you're running?? My OEM 53" bucket has seen a better decade or 2 lol Really want the 60", and figuring some point fabricate a skid-steer style quick connect bracket.

[@SteeveeDan]

Sounds like a good idea with the Seafoam. I was concerned with how long my new filters will last without a thorough clean/flush of the fluid. I'm pretty sure I have the OEM bucket. My pins are all in good shape but it would be nice to have a skid style quick release set up. Need to gather some more parts then I'm going to be installing my joystick, of course there will be a video!

[@timelbrecht9562]

My mechanic told me put a shop vac where you pour oil in and run it while you do this. Won’t loose fluid.

[@fakefoster966]

Thanks for the videos. I also have a 1988 950 and have the exact same issues with the starter and slow hydraulics when cold. Otherwise, agree, it's a tank and I scrape my steep mountain roads with the 4wd. I am curious how you gutted the filter? Also, I took the starter apart and the brushes looked like they had plenty of life in them so I put it back together and thought I fixed it by cleaned the copper contacts. No joy, still sticks. My next attempt might be to add dielectric grease carefully on the sides of the brushes to allow better movement and contact with the rotor. You have any fixes for that? Again, Thanks for these videos! It helped tremendously!

[@SteeveeDan]

I actually made a vid about gutting the filter - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bH-7f4aoa7qefcU Thanks for your comment!

[@jackhealy9425]

Have had several problems with water in my JD 1050 hydraulics. Replaced the shifter boot, and used a latex glove(cut tip off one finger, and placed it over the shifting shaft). Problem solved.

[@SteeveeDan]

Since I stopped using the JD hydraulic fluid and switched to the Starfire fluid, I've had no condensation issues at all. Never had this tractor in water nearly deep enough to get into an axle or any other seal and it was always stored inside or under a cover so I was pretty sure it was condensation.

[@daleval2182]

I think screen is high, s I it can be cleaned, without drain whole system? What was the milky? Seal?

[@SteeveeDan]

The screen can be cleaned since it's a metal mesh but it is very low in the sump so you lose most of the fluid when you take it out. The milky color is moisture mixed in with the fluid.

[@daleval2182]

@@SteeveeDan thanks, you'd think engineering would make it more easily cleanable, my guess JD wants us all, to use the expensive fancy 15 gallons of fluid and buy all the over priced filters, before they are even due, if we just get shit in a screen, i been reading NAPA sells filters that meet or exceed JD Spec, for 50 % less, Shell and Valvoiline make fluid that exceeds JD spec, again faster, easier to get, and 35 to 50 %, less, this is my first JD, and after pricing, researching, i think their greed has gone way up in last 5 years, and service has gone way down, I called a dealer, wanted 3 filters, all for a common 6400 series tractor, had 1, and other 2 wait a few weeks, had 2 pails fluid, back order others, cost near double to all purpose tractor fluid by Valvoiline??, then i had 3 tech questions, service DEPT, a lady, had no clue as to what I was talking about, said ill ask , call you back, 2 DAYS NO CALL, i think i will be using a Cat dealership I know, and sourse quality aftermarket service supply, sorry I blab alot, good video, thanks you helped me btw, hope you got moisture out, make sure no place rain can drip into supply reservoir, and lucas and motomaster, make additives i think for condensate, and minnor seep leaks.

[@SteeveeDan]

@@daleval2182 Excellent post, ty! So far with the Starfire fluid, I've had no condensation issues but now I have the ability to keep the tractor out of the weather so maybe....

[@brianrawlings9034]

I have the same problem with my 1985 JD 1050. Hydraulics stopped working. I’ve changed the fluid and filters several times because of the water that accumulates from sitting. Going to replace my hydraulic pump now.

[@SteeveeDan]

An unfortunate issue with these machines. Since I switched fluids mine has been good though, knock wood!

[@brianrawlings9034]

@@SteeveeDan Which brand fluid did you switch to? I’ve been using the low viscosity expensive John Deere fluid.

[@SteeveeDan]

@@brianrawlings9034 www.amazon.com/Premium-Tractor-Transmission-Fluid-J20C/dp/B019QVE5DQ/ref=asc_df_B019QVE5DQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312168100217&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6153783037471861960&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022709&hvtargid=pla-571541743423&psc=1

[@travisburgans5710]

Hi John Deere 1050 has the traverse Burgans I don’t I change the bulb cleaned out everything changed from new filter how to start still won’t seem to pick up the fluid what’s wrong with it

[@SteeveeDan]

Should be self-bleeding. Anything I've ever done to the hydraulics I've never had to bleed it, it just passed the air on its own. I have all of the service manuals and I can't find anything on bleeding the hydraulics. I would get a pressure gauge and check the pressures to make sure your pump is good. If you have power steering and a bucket, just try letting the engine idle for 10 minutes or so and work the steering and bucket controls for a few minutes and see what happens. If you still have an issue, check the pump if your filters are clean and your fluid is full and of the right kind of fluid.

[@toddboden972]

How long have you had it before draining the fluid. Curious cause I've had my fluid in for two years before I changed it and it still looked good not milky like that. Probably didn't need to change mine but did anyway. I park my in the garage ND never leave it out.

[@SteeveeDan]

I had it maybe 6 months but only put 20 or so hours on it by that time. Hoping it was due to the very short run times when I did use it causing condensation. It never was in water deep enough to hit any seals anywhere on the machine.

[@smitty1696]

It collects that much water just from so called condensation?

[@SteeveeDan]

I have no other explanation. Tractor has never been in water or mud deep enough to reach the seals or gaskets of the axles or bottom side of the machine.

[@pmd_7450]

Mine was milky as well. It had been outside and in the elements from time to time. I had a hard time believing condensation put that much water in. I found the boot on the gear selection lever loose and a place where water can get in.

[@jimthornton5]

I have 1050 that was treated badly before I got her. I have done extensive repairs/restoration. I replaced the clutch, added field PS, and replaced lots of misc parts. Tractor has always run fine except for the FEL hydraulics. I have been battling them for a while, Loader will hardly move now. I do have all of the manuals, I think I am going to start by measuring pump output, If it is low, I will replace. If not, I will replace/clean the screen, and filter. You have me thinking about eliminating the filter. I will also change the fluid entirely. Every time that I think I have fixed the system, performance degrades over time. There are not a lot of parts in the hydraulic system. The pump is expensive, Was your PS factory or field installed? Your videos are great. Thanks.

[@SteeveeDan]

My ps was factory installed. The biggest improvement to my hydraulics was changing the spin on filter with the NAPA #1229 and switching hydraulic fluid from JD to Starfire. Honestly, since the filter and fluid change, the fel has never worked better.

[@jimthornton5]

Did you replace the JD filter with the NAPA filter after this video was made? Also, did you say that a re-build kit was available for the Hydro pump? Excellent videos....

[@SteeveeDan]

@@jimthornton5 Before this video - This one is where I replaced the filter. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4PYXp2ulpaVabs Yes, or at least they were. I think it was available on www.greenpartstore.com/ but I haven't looked in a while.

[@JohnJones-zm3nb]

They have Additive that stops that condensation from occurring. Mechanic in a bottle

[@SteeveeDan]

So far, since I started using the starfire fluid, I haven't had the condensation issue, maybe that or a similar additive is already in that fluid?

[@brianrawlings9034]

I have the same problem with my 1985 JD 1050.

[@tracytimmermann5541]

I have a tire wobble in my front tire but the bearings are good

[@SteeveeDan]

Is it 2 or 4wd?

[@tracytimmermann5541]

@@SteeveeDan 2wd

[@SteeveeDan]

All I can suggest and this is based on the bearings being good and adjusted correctly is check for a bent spindle, worn pins, bent rim, or worn/bent tie rod ends. Sorry, without seeing it in person, it's kinda hard to diagnose.

[@tracytimmermann5541]

@@SteeveeDan thank u for your help