John Deere Temperature and/or Fuel Gauge Fix

[@hkr321hkr]

Thank you for any information

[@bigmotor3845]

Great Tip!👍🏽

[@gc202300]

Darren, I have really appreciated you suggested repairs for the JD 4300 tractors and plan to put several into use. Any suggestions for an hour meter that has stopped working also has a bad temperature gauge that I plan on trying to fix with a resistor as you suggested. I was planning on purchasing a new gauge cluster. (OUCH) keep up the great videos… Thanks

[@darrenmas]

Glad that the videos are helpful and thanks for your feedback. You can get a replacement hour meter. You would have todo some soldering to remove/install the old/new meter. I believe it would work, but never tried it. The part number of the meter should be on the back of the meter. I would just google the part number and see what you find. I bet it’s just off the shelf part/meter that is readily available for much less. Hope this helps…

[@MikeOrazzi]

@@darrenmas My fuel gauge doesn't work that well either, but the bigger problem I'm having is my tank has a crack somewhere on the bottom side. If I put more than 2 gallons in it, it leaks all over the place. It's not the fuel lines. I'm having a heck of a time getting the tank out. That little piece under the steering wheel and above the fuse box is the problem. I did post a video of how far I got. Any thoughts appreciated.

[@darrenmas]

thanks for reaching out, here are the high level tank removal steps on a 4000 series. should be able to jb plastic weld the crack once tank is removed. hope this helps. 1. Park machine on level surface, shut engine off, engage park brake. 2. Allow machine and engine to cool before attempting to service fuel system. 3. Remove engine side panels. 4. Remove steering wheel. See Steering Wheel . 5. Remove control panel. See Control Panel . 6. Remove key switch panel. See Key Switch Panel . 7. Remove cowl panels. See Cowl Panel . 8. Remove hood. See Engine Hood . 9. Remove brake pedal shaft. See "Brake Pedal Removal and Installation" in Brake section. 10. Remove two cap screws (A) on each side of hood support frame (B) and remove hood support frame. 11. Disconnect throttle link (C) at engine by pulling rod outward. 12. Drain fuel from tank into a suitable container. 13. Label and remove fuel lines from fuel tank. 14. Remove fuel overflow drain hose (D). 15. Remove drain cock (E) and fuel hose elbow (F) from fuel tank. 16. Loosen screw (G) on clamp holding fuel gauge sender wiring harness to fuel tank. Turn clamp to release harness. 17. Remove two nuts (H) and lock washers connecting wires to fuel gauge sender. Remove wires. 18. If necessary, drain coolant overflow tank and disconnect hose from radiator to tank. 19. Remove cap screw (I) and coolant overflow tank. 20. Remove two cap screws (J), washers and rubber isolators (K) securing bottom of steering support to frame. 21. Remove two nuts (L), four washers, and two cap screws (M) from rubber isolators (N) that secure top of steering support to frame. →NOTE: An assistant may be required to tilt steering support while removing fuel tank. Tilt steering support toward rear of machine and remove tank from frame.

[@MikeOrazzi]

@@darrenmas Thanks. I have that same repair manual. I don't see how removing the brake and clutch pedals or actual steering does much. I've done everything else. I'm leery of giving a hard pull on the steering wheel/fuse bracket toward the seat, but I think that is what it needs. I may use a ratchet strap and go very slow. The project is on hold until I can devote some more time to it. Thanks for the info.

[@franciscolinera7618]

That will only works if the gage and sender are linear. Most are not. You could add a resistor and make it read what ever at what ever part of the scale you choose. That it's not a fix. Worst yet, up to and above that point you have altered the relationship so you do not really know how far off you are.

[@wilmamcdermott3065]

My problem was faulty plugs on the ignition switch. Such junk they use jd sucks

[@bigeddiem3745]

Your video only shows how to adjust the temperature gauge. What about the fuel gauge which you mention at the beginning and end. You don't show that procedure. Where is the wiring that connects to the fuel gauge and what value resistor do you use to adjust that gauge? You don't show that procedure in your video. Please clarify.

[@darrenmas]

@@bigeddiem3745 thanks for reaching out. I can create a new video on the fuel gauge. Will create in the next few days and let you know.

[@darrenmas]

@@bigeddiem3745 kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpuxoZ6JmNJlprMsi=AkDFJPzrT77jd5Va

[@Composiclean]

Your title says “temperature and or fuel gauge fix“, you didn’t talk very much at all about the fuel gauge. Is it the same exact thing pop a resistor in there? We just spent $350 because the piece of crap sending unit was leaking. I expect the new one is going to leak within a few hundred hours cause it’s the same piece of crap design. I love the 5105 but I really hate John Deere’s ability to harness the power of “planned obsolescence” and the way they hide things. To change the fuel pump on a John Deere gator should take minutes. You should not have to take the cage off take the seats off take the seat pan out to get to the fuel pump. John Deere has turned into a disgusting company.

[@darrenmas]

@@Composiclean thanks for reaching out. Yes a resistor in line is it. Here is a high level for the fuel gauge if it’s reading too high. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpuxoZ6JmNJlprMsi=5YqFtm5qV0jg0_-d