NO HANDS Climbing with Johnny Dawes

Johnny is a UK climbing legend, however, the way he practices climbing footwork might be a bit UNCONVENTIONAL.
We had a day out in the Peak District exploring the art of no hands climbing, follow along to see how I did.
My Instagram:
/ jonathan_sin88
Johnny's Instagram:
/ johnnydawesofficial
If anyone is interested in personal coaching from Johnny, do just check out his website.
www.frictioneering.co.uk/
Also, special thanks to Stan (Viking looking crusher) for helping out with the filming of this video.
Merry Christmas Everyone!

[@dynarmin]

This dude is the GOAT of slab climbing.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

CONFIRMED

[@flavioxy]

@@Jonathan_sin88 🐐

[@nsiepmann]

@@flavioxy a mountain GOAT

[@eurekaflows]

As silly as this may look to people, the transfer over to "real climbing" is immense. Having that much control, and more importantly, hyper-awareness in your footwork is invaluable.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I didn't think how hard all this would be beforehand, but I can now say that it's one of the hardest things EVER, got my ass handed to me

[@sean6387]

For those new to the climbing world and its characters, Johnny is/was one of Britain's top rock climbers, having put up some iconic routes including his ascent of Indian Face in '86. His understanding of movement is second to none.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thanks for the extra information!! That’s right Johnny is an absolute powerhouse

[@gravyblue]

I was at the quarry man the other day. Mind blowing.

[@thefubuking9919]

Thank you for that insight

[@michael1]

Yep. I think it's a shame that, although obviously cameras existed back then - and there are a few films, how much better it would have been if in the 80s and 90s there'd been the same easy ways of creating high quality footage of climbers that we have now. I think pretty much the same thing for Ted Greene's guitar playing too - there's a fair number of VHS quality examples of his teaching and playing and he did one studio album, but there's nothing like the high quality HD footage that we see of current guitar players on youtube.

[@johntheguru]

This is like getting a super fast downhill MTB rider to step back and spend the day playing on a curb in a carpark. It opens up the mind to the absolute fundamentals and reminds you of the critical subconscious parts so often overlooked.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

What goes on in the mind is so tricky to grasp, the attention subtle details can most certainly help with all types of climbing

[@WellingtonIronman]

Any time I hear Jonny instructing it’s a fascinating insight into how he views lines. It’s like he knows every grain on every hold, and is processing every piece of information that is body is giving him in a fraction of a second. The man was born to climb.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

He does give the most creative instructions 🤣

[@Chalkdust81]

10:18 🤯 Also for people wondering if it's useful: the reason climbers train their upper bodies so much is that your upper body is so much weaker than your legs. The less you have to rely on it, the more energy you can save for the moves when you really need to pull hard. Good footwork > almost everything

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I most certainly need to work on mine moreee

[@markcobb3929]

Brilliant, and so much learning enabled..my family and I worked with Johnny a couple of times a few years back..our footwork improved out of all recognition..Johnny climbs with such balance, such empathy with the rock, such controlled, but relaxed power...a complete legend.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

The understanding of movement is honestly unreal!!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Johnny is just the best fun to climb with. Edit: both of you 🥹💌

[@Jonathan_sin88]

🥹thank you Hannah

[@johnnydawesofficial]

It's quite a scenario landing with an individual and then coaching and filming. Amazing it's in any way interesting. Thanks to your openessres it worked for real

[@Gadgetmawombo]

Not joking. My granpa will do similar stuff in regular shoes! He's from Mexico, lived in a canyon village in the middle of nowhere called San Diego Villanueva in Zacatecas, yes San Diego like the city in Lower Cali. Place looks like its inside Zion Canyon or something but almost nobody knows about it. Its hard to even find pictures of it on Google! And in that terrain he walks around in Sandals! It's crazy what the human body adapts to especially if you've been doing it all your life.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Absolute madness

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Send us some footage. Love to see his style

[@Gadgetmawombo]

@@johnnydawesofficial I gotta see if I can find some footage from when we went to Vasquez Rocks here in Los Angeles. He's in Mexico right now and I'm going visiting in a few days, i'll see if I can get some footage of his bonkers "walking up" a climb ability lol. Might not tho because he's taking care of my sickly grandmother right now, we are only visiting them for one day before we go to our vacation destinations.

[@ignatirabo]

Wow what an amazing video! Great collab! Johnny seems like a wise person

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Thank you Stan for sorting this and filming it. Top job as usual. Your choice Tor_and_edge ice dye looks good on the grit

[@georgestone8099]

11:23 what on earth.. Actual mountain goat genetics..

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I was shook

[@V2inyourjim]

Top quality climbing content!! Thank you for sharing

[@adamhaas141]

My homies, I've seen some amazing collabs recently, but this is the first I'm willing to call an epic. Dynamic? Static? I'll bet these guys could shed so much light on this apparent contradiction that it would blow our minds. Minds aside, if Johnny and Jonathan keep collaborating, our footwork will undoubtedly be impeccable!🧐

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you for such kind words!!! Don’t worry, many more cool collabs coming up😏😏

[@timignatov7394]

Awesome video man!! Love all the colabs youre doing and really looking forward to when this channels grows and you do more crazy stuff. Best of luck and keep these amazing vids coming bro :D

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you so much, you have no idea how much these kind words motivate me, HAPPY NEW YEARRR

[@sambeard4428]

'I try to make my instructuons more and more pretentious '

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Trying to have fun in my life

[@hkbenman]

a master class in footwork love it!!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

thanks bruuuu

[@climbing_thomas]

oh my god i never saw that coming! you guys are so funny together, what an iconic duo!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Haha call us THE JOHNNIESSS

[@bioshocketsblorg123gamingf6]

It's actually exactly my type of climbing so i've learnt so much here, can't wait to put it in practice next session

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Hell yeahhhh

[@Bobonautti]

Great stuff. Johnny is such a character and a true legend!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

can not agree moreee

[@amberblackford9999]

Ha! I love Johnny Dawes. This was the collab I didn't know I needed and so much fun to watch. I'm stoked to go try it... Footwork and body position are everything, thanks for this 🙌

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Soooo glad to hear that you enjoyed it!! Now go get those shins wrecked 🤣

[@amberblackford9999]

@@Jonathan_sin88 that's my favorite part of climbing slab 😅

[@Roubainx]

Goated vid. Always telling friends about your channel

[@Jonathan_sin88]

🥹🥹thank you so much!!!

[@TwoFingerCrimp]

I fkn love this! Foot work is the key and so underrated. I start every session with foot work and make that mind to toe connection.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Maybe I should do that tooo

[@xIsouLcruSHca]

The video I needed! As crazy as it sounds I feel like Johnny's movement has a lot of similarities to that of a mountain goat and I can't unsee it anymore!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

😏😏

[@snowpoop-mj7hx]

This is so goofy but entertaining lol I think there is something like this at Verm City.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Goofy is the main thing

[@dudley0007]

awesome!!

[@krosigrim]

Awesome vid!

[@mystishio]

He's insane in all the best ways!😅 Absolute legend! Love his way of looking at movement😄

[@Jonathan_sin88]

mad man with som mad skills

[@JustinRubychannel]

Great vid brah, nice traversing

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank youu bruuu

[@simonwilliams9850]

Great video, thanks!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

glad you enjoyed ittt

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Happy Christmas Jonathan

[@Jonathan_sin88]

ahha thank you Johnny, you too!

[@principal_optimism]

Seeing Johnny Dawes collaborating with many upcoming climbing KZbinrs has been surreal. In my opinion, he's really becoming an upstanding capital E: Elder to the climbing community. He is helping younger climbers learn to find their feet and practice climbing in a healthier and more sustainable manner for life. While no hands climbing may seem a gimmick to some or wasteful since you're not using your hands... Really, the hands are the first to tire. They often end up arthritic and injured. The feet and legs are sturdier and should be relied on to lighten the load of the hands and arms. We aren't orangutans. As much as some may try to defy their biology, we are the walking apes. It's not just the feet, though, it's the core and hips. It's the whole chain of balance including the arms up to the head. A fantastic perspective and I'm excited to see where this philosophy leads.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

the man is a legend for sure, I am so grateful that he gave me the opportunity

[@daniellee7642]

really cool video

[@ChiefKeefSA]

Gonna start hitting toes when I go into the gym now lmao. This was amazing!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Definitely shouldddd🤣🤣

[@workgd3083]

Amazing, i would love to do this with him. Woaah

[@Jonathan_sin88]

you can try it yourself too!!!

[@workgd3083]

@@Jonathan_sin88 That’s true! Thanks for responding 🧡

[@projektxtension]

Diu. 😂 Great show. Enjoyed this one.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Hahaha thank youuuu

[@Sigginsc]

Inspired to go do some frictioneering! Great Video!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Most definitely! Glad you enjoyed it

[@MCMasterGamers]

What a legend!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

😎😎🤌

[@masterteggy]

how to wreck climbing shoes 101 (but also, I love this video)

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Only if you slip a ton like I did🤣

[@TAS_CNX]

This was great

[@Jonathan_sin88]

glad u like ittt

[@tobylowe4482]

The Original Stone Monkey. Johnny blew my mind when I started climbing in the 80s. He’s still as inspirational.

[@farizkiyazid]

"your mouth is what you're using a lot" is so funny 😂😂

[@Jonathan_sin88]

My heart🥹🥹

[@TheRealMycanthrope]

So hasty, you gotta slow down mate 😂 Great video I think Johnny and Rodney Mullen would have a fascinating convo about hands-free movement, they both have a very deep understanding of it, just different fields

[@johnnydawesofficial]

I'd like that very much. Sean Myles, climbing luminary, did a beautiful project at ilkley I'd been trying and called it Rodney Mullen

[@BoulderingHighlights]

love no hands climbing! do it all the time I thought i was the only one! great to see other climbers also having fun in the same way

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Time just flies by as well when you’re trying to concentrate that harddd

[@chloetky6769]

that was incredible

[@Jonathan_sin88]

🤣thank youuuu

[@homemsapo]

"Your mouth is what you are Using a lot"

[@Jonathan_sin88]

😂😂😂

[@hj40]

What a legend

[@Jonathan_sin88]

legittt

[@langochat2051]

Very nice rocks !!!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Grit stone is beautifulll

[@aresjerry]

This is its own style, but doubtless it's like an accessory movement for climbing. Like hitting quads after doing squats or biceps after your rows

[@NM-ib7ql]

As someone climbing lots of slabs I can tell that having correct shoes matter a lot. I use same Blancos as Johnny and TC Pros for hard slabs aggressive shoes just suck for me although I like them for anything else.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Hahah Johnny mentioned that too!!

[@thundasc]

This has a lot to do with maintaining a stable center of gravity. You can practice this by standing on one leg while moving the raised leg around to shift your center of gravity and figuring out how the rest of your body needs to position to stay stable, it becomes a lot more intuitive with a bit of practice. Fair warning, it's a calf killer.

[@johnnydawesofficial]

And unstable too.

[@nffctrickett]

The literal GOAT

[@Jonathan_sin88]

LITERALLY

[@salamandersmith]

Can you match feet and back step the big move on Deliverance?

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Maybe??

[@Reece111]

Nice collab

[@Jonathan_sin88]

😜more to comeee

[@Phil.Austin]

I saw him demonstrate this in one of his classes at Bowles Rocks in Kent

[@Jonathan_sin88]

it looks so ridiculous until you actually try it, I was blown away

[@Phil.Austin]

I'm talking about 20 years ago

[@Jonathan_sin88]

@@Phil.Austin how was I suppose to know that

[@Phil.Austin]

It was just nice to see him still teaching this stuff

[@flyingdutchy01]

i cant wrap my head around. this guy is amazing!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

he is pretty awesome isn't he

[@QuiteSomething]

Sick

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Thank you thank you🤌🤌

[@peppikacca1074]

what type of shoes are you using?

[@stuartday3232]

Im a big Dawes fan, always have been. Ps they look like the shoes I gave him 😂. My favourite dawes route is the one at stanage he did with no hands and on one leg! Go try it and try not to fill yer pants 😂😂

[@Jonathan_sin88]

all Dawes route are ridiculously good

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Thanks for the boots. I like them a lot, comfy and quite good

[@simonwilliams9850]

"you've got a Jenga to here, and a Jenga to here and then the state of mind is on top" lol

[@tintin3756]

🎉

[@kauaandrade4098]

must be crazy for you who's such a dinamic climber to keep yourself to the most delicate moves like these

[@Jonathan_sin88]

It’s actually really dynamic as well, when you look at Johnny move, it’s almost like he’s running up a comp Problem

[@richardworth350]

but Johnny's trick was using dynamic movement on incredibly delicate (and usually dangerous) trad routes all through the 80s

[@paulmitchell5349]

JD usually sees and uses holds that nobody else does.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I would have never thought about the climbs that he made up if it wasn’t for him

[@alexf2008]

Need more bloopers

[@Jonathan_sin88]

The rest will get the video taken down🤣

[@konkelkent]

hes a god damn mountain goat, what the actual hell was that😅 he made it look SO EASY

[@Jonathan_sin88]

it looks so effortless then I basically fall off the first step ahah

[@blow-by-blow-trumpet]

I spent a whole evening getting drunk with Johnny in a pub in Sheffield about 10 years ago. It never even occurred to me to ask him to go climbing as I thought he was past it! Probably just as well - he would have left me for dust even with his beer gut.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I reckon it’s even more impressive now haha, he kicked my ass that’s for sureee

[@mukkimerc856]

I guess it's right what they say mind over body. Clearly he proves that.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Exactlyyyy

[@hungrypenguin1]

you two combined can be called Johnny Sins

[@Jonathan_sin88]

🤣🤣🤣

[@Bladesmobile]

When Johnny did pebble face literally no hands in socks and sandals

[@Jonathan_sin88]

"ARE YOU NOT ENTERTAINED"

[@lofizp1062]

MASSIVE VIDEO WITH A MASSIVE CLIMBER

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Hahahah massive thanks from meee👌🏻👌🏻🔥

[@dannylim1028]

Slabs! My favorite type of climbs

[@Jonathan_sin88]

my shins disagree

[@Hihi6789sfvvdsc]

Jengs

[@Jonathan_sin88]

😂😂

[@CollinGill7]

that guys like a climbing monk

[@Jonathan_sin88]

Climbing monk who can outdrink anyone

[@mechXplorer]

Brother amazing, I want to become an athlete .you boost me.I am 19 year old .where are you from?

[@Jonathan_sin88]

I am from HK!!

[@tabs1913]

Goats do be having 4 legs though.

[@racoonette_rakunjet_waschbaer]

moar like faintin goats

[@TheOnlyWayUp-iv8gr]

Just asking, do your friends call you Johnny sins?

[@Jonathan_sin88]

woah you are DEFINITELY the first

[@whatilearnttoday5295]

Do, or do not, there is no try.

[@Jonathan_sin88]

yes sirrrr

[@lordsneed9418]

he doesn't know what he's talking about

[@Intermernet]

Saying JD doesn't know what he's talking about is like saying Michael Jordan can't play basketball. You couldn't be more wrong if you tried!

[@Jonathan_sin88]

😉😉boom

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Buy you both a half. That trol too?

[@Intermernet]

@@johnnydawesofficial If, in the distant future, some random Australian approaches you in a pub in Sheffield and demands a half, don't worry, it's just me.