Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell - Quick and Easy Troubleshooting of Common Problems.

Today we take a look at some of the common problems we face with the Aquarite salt generator or similar models and how to solve for them without spending tons of money on needless service and repairs when many times it can be accomplished in a few minutes. In this particular case, storms in our area caused multiple brownouts, we will see the results throughout the video of how this manifested.
Consider that before any troubleshooting is done that the cell must be clean and de-calcified The job of the check cell light is not simply to be shut off every three months. These are not maintenance free appliances. Assuming though as in the case with this one, that the maintenance was just conducted no more than a few days ago, a comparison between the displayed salinity and the real-time is way off. Too far off for the internal computation or average over time to correct it. The procedure shown in the video illustrates how to re-calibrate these values.
Even with this issue solved I find that the numbers are still wonky. I see that the live values are erratic. looking through the menu we come to fine that the T value no longer aligns with the cell type I have. Showing T3 when I have a T15. Having lost this setting and calibration at the same time, clearly NVRAM was lost due to a power hit. I Fell like the T setting should have been hardware, that's just my opinion. Having set the T value correctly, the numbers are no longer erratic, and I re-calibrate again.
Looking at issues regarding flow, again, maintenance practices can contribute to these issues, with garbage getting caught in the generator. But we also find the wipers on the RJ11 connector can oxidize, this can be cleaned with multiple re-plugging events. Lastly a test of the switch with a continuity meter makes a positive determination if the switch has failed, or if some other unrelated problem exists. Filter issues, pump issues etc.
#saltpool #hayward #aquarite

[@jimson11]

Thanks! This was the clearest video on how to recalibrate after cleaning the salt cell and seeing 2 different numbers

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome!

[@Kalibr85]

I replaced my salt cell a few years ago and immediately noticed the salt levels were off by -300 to 500 points when compared to pool store tests. I knew the cell needed calibration but couldn't find how to do that, until now. Thank you for this great informative video!

[@ItsTessie56]

Thank you. After 8 years with this system, I finally FULLY understand it. I couldn't figure out why, suddenly, my pool kept registering no chlorine even after 14 hours on super chlorinated. Well when I checked my TCELL940-W setting which should be set for T15 it was set at T3. Yaya! Problem fixed . Thank you for the clear directions. Now I know what all those numbers mean.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to help!

[@bishopd2290]

Thank you! Just saved me hundreds of dollars. So informative. Going to let it run all night and then check it in the morning to see if everything is still running well.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad i could help.

[@Kaibyrd1]

I am listening to this and troubleshooting with my mouth wide open!!!! I can’t believe this worked. You are awesome! I was THIS close to buying a new cell.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Knowledge is power.

[@cestari001]

You save my day.... my cell is a T-9.... I had many problems because it was configured back to T-3..... A read the cell manual and there are no information about you just put on this video... Save may day and save me money... Thanks a lot..

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Yes indeed, Not making that a dip switch was a fail in the design....

[@whip-its_dad4239]

Hello Mr.RT&E , this was exactly my problem and solution . Thank you so much ! By the way in July 2022 Hayward Salt Cells are now 899.00 . Loved the shovelhead videos too .

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome. That series has since moved over to the other channel/

[@billmilam4457]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I'm a newbie too. I've had a salt water pool for over 25 years, but never knew how everything worked. Your tutorial was very informative and I appreciate you SO MUCH! Now I can finally fix the problems on my own and save BIG MONEY! THANKS AGAIN! 😉

[@scarletgil1]

You are awesome! Thank you for making this video. It saved me from having to call a technician. I’ve had this system for 15 years and I never realized the type of cell could randomly get selected with a power outage. It was incorrectly set on T-9 and wasn’t producing chlorine.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Not an awesome design imho.

[@MarkMoaniala]

Great video - many thanks. My 8 year old T-15 had reached the point that it would not return to service after cleaning because it thought the salt was too low. After recal it works fine. Thanks again

[@zeomar7]

This is so useful!!! And much simpler than trying to understand the manual. Thank you very much for putting this guide 🎉

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome.

[@FauxReal]

Wonderful video! This and your cleaning video should be linked in the AquaRite documentation.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Which documentation?

[@TheDivergentDrummer]

Thanks for the video good sir. I recently was dropped off one of these to "troubleshoot" and me, knowing NOTHING of saltwater chlorination, said sure. Apparently they wanted like 90CAD just to look at it and was told it likely needs a new board. Typical trying to sell parts where they don't need to be. Not as far as I can see, but I am still waiting on the official report from the customer as to what the actual symptoms are. I didn't even know it was for a pool until it got here lol. This walk-through will be super helpful. If it needs board level repair, I am going to attempt to effectuate that myself.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Test the thermistor, its known to fail first...

[@robertmushow6323]

Thanks Mike. Bingo! I should have remembered that this happened to me a few years ago and I soldered in a new one. Got the replacement yesterday, soldered in place and I'm up and running again. Thanks for responding

[@cathymartin19]

That is awesome. I just got this unit installed and had no idea on how to operate it. Thank you!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad I could help!

[@riponais]

This video is excellent. My salt reading was at 1900 and yet when tested in store was at 3000. A reset as explained and bingo, it reads 3000 as well. All blinking lights came off. Thanks!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome.

[@georgeerwin1374]

Great video, really appreciated the detail on how to recalibrate the salt reading

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it was helpful!

[@stanleydobrowski4813]

Great video. Saved me a lot of headaches.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it!

[@dho449]

I had this issue where the salt cell was reading lower than the actual salt level and the system wasn’t generating chlorine because of that. I used the salt cell cleaning solution and the fins looked ok inside the unit. Then I reinstalled it and it worked ok for a couple days. Then the same problem cropped up. I have the solution I think. I used a bubble tea straw brush (just a small wire brush and scrubbed in between the fins inside the cell until all the fins looked clean. Now it’s working properly. I’m not sure exactly where the sensor is but I imagine it’s near where the wire comes into the unit so I made sure to get the brush in and around that tight space. Now it’s working properly. Hopefully for a good while. Worthwhile to try out and save 1000 dollars for a new cell.

[@ErikSamaro]

what did you use chemical wise? Was it the muratic acid approach or the vinegar?

[@dho449]

I used a premixed salt cell cleaner from the pool store. I think it’s probably muriatic acid but not sure.

[@ronrichardson7766]

Finally - Finally I am see the lights.. correctly. Fantastic video - Had my pool builder tell me to reset the light really does not need to be inspected. - I did inspect, too almost 3 hours to eat all the calium build up... - I had Leselie tell me I needed 10 bags of salt, which I stupidly bought, in AZ we get our water from the Salt river... yeah you know salt I the water should be enough We had power hits... the panel defaults to a T3 - then shoudl be a dip switch... mine should be t-9 been empty my pool and pooring salt for the last month trying to figure this out... Now it all makes sense. t-9 I am the salt/cal are showing 4.60, so I cam guessin I eed to add some more water.. I am goign to what to it what 24 hours to make sure.. because I have a TDS that shows around 3000

[@johny112wrest]

Awesome video! Helped me with my system it was on t-3 and saying high salt. Wouldn't calibrate. Once I changed it to t-15 it showed the right salt reading and started generating. Wasn't generating before and pool was turning green. Should be fixed now! Thank you.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it helped!

[@CryptoWorld2]

Awesome video! im thinking of adding a salt water system to my pool and its good to see videos like this that take away some of the questions of how the system actually works.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Smartest pool thing i ever did...

[@dang9859]

Great Video! Tried everything and was getting no where. I was extremely close to purchasing a new cell and old one just needed calibration.... Thanks!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad I could help

[@robertmushow6323]

So here is my current situation. The check salt and inspect cell lights were on constantly. The panel said it was NOT generating (no light). My salt level, according to pinch a penny water analysis, was 3100. My panel said it was 2400. I ran the recalibration of the panel per your instructions and the "generating" light came on, the salt reading on the panel came up to 2700 during the recalibration. A week later the water analysis at pinch a penny said my chlorine level was at 5. However, the generatiing light was out. So I'm thinking that I'm still producing chlorine even though the light went out. I also had pinch a penny test my cell and it tested ok. Today, the generating light is out. Had my water tested and I have zero chlorine, salt was 3200. Salt on my panel was reading 2200. Had them test the cell again and it tests ok. I cleaned the cell and turned everything back on again. Ran the calibration on the panel again. The check salt light is flashing. I reset the inspect cell light. Says it's generating. The cell is about six years old and I know this is around the average life cycle of a cell. Since the cell "passed" it's test, how do I know if the problem is in the panel or not? Is there a way to test the panel? I don't want to invest in a new cell then find out I have to invest in a new panel. I reached out to Hayward but they would not answer my questions. They just wanted to refer me to a local dealer to come out and troubleshoot. I appreciate you taking the time to read my email and would like to get your input. By the way, I replaced the thermistor in the panel about a month ago.

[@MsMyFav-re8pg]

Thank you sooooo much! Fixed my issue and my stress level.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it helped!

[@barryg41]

Good stuff! One other thing on the flow switch, the magnet on the spring lever can go weak. I bought an aftermarket switch when I could not get an OEM. Less than six months it failed. When I pulled the magnet in to close the switch it did not work. So I got my own magnet and yes it worked then. An OEM is in the hole now. 👍

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Mechanical sensors can fail or become unreliable, no doubt. But when it manifests as NO FLOW many assume its a flow issue, not a switch issue, or a connector issue.

[@coolhandluke308]

Wow!! You are the man. So informative! What if.... When the pump turns off.... The salt generator does not go to no flow and then trips the unti into a fault/check cell issue. I've cleaned everything and does great generating.... But when the pump clicks off it's like the gen doesn't. And it faults.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

When you unplug the flow switch from the bottom, does it go to no flow?

[@spaskins1]

@@retrotechandelectronics Hi. I am not the original poster, but I have the same issue. I unplug the flow switch from the bottom and the no flow light DOES come on as expected. I plug it back in and it flashed for a few seconds and then starts generating. But, when the pump goes off, the unit keeps generating (green light on, and I hear a low hum). Why is it no longer going to "no flow" when the flow stops? BTW--your video was GREAT and very helpful. I never knew I had to recalibrate the unit and it was wayyyyy off.

[@JoeAHavok]

Good stuff thx for addressing the calibration issue

[@retrotechandelectronics]

No problem 👍

[@SpYucaipaSoCal]

I put an old board in that I had replaced the thermistor in. After a new aftermarket board lasted 2 days. I was confused about the salt level numbers saying 2.7 and red lights were on after 30 seconds or so. Turns out I needed to check all my settings. It was in metric was set for t-3 cell mine is t-15 and had to calibrate the salt level. I have a hand held electronic salt meter and it’s normally very close to the Hayward reading. I had to toggle it from off to auto a few times to get it to start counting down like you’ve seen in calibration videos then flip it up to super chlorinate and back to auto to hold the setting. But now lights are green and everything it good in the pool.

[@olanserv]

Thank you very much for your detailed information!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

My pleasure!

[@StevieGYaSee]

I just replaced my cell and am now trying to calibrate for HI salt as well. Before I replaced it the salt was reading very low. I Pushed the button five times to see the output The numbers were very erratic like yours And then it just jumped back to high. Also I don't see an option on my board to choose my cell type. any thoughts? Ita a Hayward Blue Essence which is the exact same setup as this.

[@danieljreading]

Thank you! I’ve had this salt generator for ten years and never works right. Now I understand. In my case it had slipped into the t3 configuration and changing to t15 and recalibrate and I’m in full green now thanks!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You are welcome!

[@stroye5438]

I did the recalibration and fixed my issue! Thanks

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it helped

[@MollyH-e3f]

Thank you so much! Finally some answers!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to help

[@thespedshed9655]

Thank you so much. This helped me so much with my system. Thanks bro.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome!

[@naturaldesigns3482]

Thanks! you just saved me 800 bucks....definite subscribe!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it!

[@reginaharrell2556]

Hello thanks for the video. You explained everything easily. My salt generator isn’t working properly the only light displayed is the check cell light. It goes on and off. I can’t get any other reading the window is blank. Please help!!

[@ErikSamaro]

You would have thought this is the greatest thing since sliced bread. First year I have opened my pool by myself and could not for the life of me figure out ... why my pool is NOT generating chlorine. When I powered it back on, I did NOT set the T cell number to the right model. Once I did that.. boom! Started making natural chlorine and stopped the hundreds of dollars and GREEN affect!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it!

[@richardbarr7191]

My problem is my cell is clean, no issues there. The problem I am having is the cell is reading LOW salt readings. RIght now it shows 2800ppm, yet I had it professionally tested yesterday it was 3600. I have had this done (professionally tested, the salt ppm) and it is the same problem. I have reset it multiple times, it is set CORRECTLY T9. I have also used salt test strips and a meter, ALL show higher salt ppm compared to the cell readings. One last thing, I took the cell to Leslies, it tested good for T3 and T9, failed on T15, which makes sense, there are more plates in a T15. Suggestions?

[@donaldkiper933]

Excellent video sir. Thank you!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it was helpful!

[@josephkoch6806]

This video saved me! Thank you!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome.

[@kstevenson7912]

Thank you so much! I have a new pool and Im still learning the system. You saved me, Thanks again!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You are welcome!

[@dougjohn45]

Great video~~!~~ Thanks for sharing.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You’re welcome.

[@angelsantiago5895]

awesome you just save me hundreds of $$$ it was in the wrong cell

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it

[@donnabrogle782]

Good info. My amps are reading 0. I can't figure out why. I also had the salt up to 3000 when the pool started to cloud up, the salt suddenly dropped to 1600. After cleaning the cell it dropped to 1500. I don't know if I need a new system Mine is 11 years old.

[@goodcitizen4587]

Very useful. Thanks!

[@ChristIsRisen777]

Well taught, sir! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽

[@JJ-fg4wp]

i am having issues with my hayward aquarite system. The only light I see green is power. I tried to recalibrate it by turning it off then on, like in your video and no change. The numbers on the screen do not move, unless I hit the diagnostic button. Had my sat cell tested and no issues. My water can't hold free chlorine. About 31,000 gallons and I have been adding a case of shock every week and within 3 days, 0 FC. I tried to locate the T on my screen and it is no where to be found. I am using the T15. How do I know if my mother board is bad or is it is the entire Hayward system?

[@linamini9774]

You are awesome! Many thanks!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You’re welcome!

[@billvarela3558]

My salt cell looks clean, no build-up but is not calibrating correctly. When I go to recalibrate, the negative number doesn't go high enough for me to match my actual ppm. What should I do?

[@genesis1116]

Very good. Thanks

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You’re welcome.

[@terrybasham3215]

Thank you SO SO VERY MUCH SIR!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome.

[@eyedee203]

I just replaced my cell 4 days ago. It was working fine until I put the panel setting on T3 due to the cell being a T3. Since then, it’s been flashing check cell and check salt.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Always compare with test strips after a big job.

[@mistybee2424]

I’m trying to make sure the proper t-cell is selected on my aqua rite but it does not come up as an option to select. After the “r-…” option it goes straight back to the salinity reading. Does this indicate what kind of problem I’m having? Also, when I turn the unit “off” and then back to “auto” there is no clicking sound. The salinity just reads 1600 and it will not reset itself no matter how many times I try resetting it. Tested the water yesterday and the pool store said the salinity is reading 3300

[@KoriDegner-hj6vx]

The first thing it’s doing in ur video when the - number goes down and u put it up into super chlorinate and then back to auto to calibrate it……. I did that, and it seemed to work for like a day, and then the next day it went back to -0 again and I keep having to calibrate it back over and over….. do I need to clean the cell? Hasn’t been cleaned in years

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Years????? Yes ! Inspect , clean!

[@csgamble]

Hey great video, My Hayward is indicating the Inspect cell and Check salt. I had my water tested and it is at 3100, running a t3 which is in the normal range, as welll I cleaned the cell with acid. not sure what to do next, ideas?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

If you serviced the cell you need to reset the timer that stops the inspect cell from flashing.

[@felipefn88]

Saved the day! Thank you!!!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it!

[@JRADMAKES]

Mine has stopped displaying the t-cell type. I replaced the thermistor last year and after that it won’t give me the option of changing my t-cell. I have a t-9. Do I have to replace the motherboard or display circuit board? Please help!!!??? Edit: I still have my original t-9 cell, after replacing with a genuine Hayward, maybe I should hook that back up and try recalibrating? I need help

[@superiorpotomac1265]

Thank you very much for your help on the calibration!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

No problem 👍

[@susanethridge3064]

I recalibrated according to your instructions and my salt reading is 3500, but is still says HI salt and won't generate. Any ideas what to do next?

[@gamkagan]

Hi, I cleaned the T cell, but I still got lights on for check salt, and inspect cell. And the "generating" light does not go on. What's the next logical step?

[@peterlabrada6635]

Thank You For Saving me $$$$!!!!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome

[@the_real_deal]

I reset the system but the negative salt value doesnt recalibrate at all thus my inspect cell and check salt lights stay on. Im not sure why it wont calibrate

[@nancyhumphries6951]

I have an aquatrol cell and cannot see what T level it is on. I replaced a t-5 with a non Hayward compatible t-5 and it is saying my salt is at 5000 when the pool store reads 3200. How can I recalibrate to the 3200 reading?

[@michaelguevara8867]

Genius! Best video!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad you liked it

[@jaycott4663]

You’re the man!!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Thanks

[@patrickorourke8468]

Excellent video! Thanks very much. I am trying to diagnose an issue on my system. It was installed professionally and use to work. My diagnosis display works but power light remains off when I switch to auto. Salt level is good tested independently. Power light is green when I reset in off position but I switch to auto generating light goes on looks good for a few seconds then clicks and both lights turn off. Salt cell t940 has been acid washed looks good and is only 2 years old, I’m going to try the multimeter test you did. Can not get a read on my generator it just shows zero values for salt. 20 amp fuse was fine but changed it anyway Let me know if any other ideas. Thanks

[@JohnSchwartz-ry3ev]

Hi and thanks for the video. i am having somewhat of a different problem i need to troubleshoot. when testing the salt level through a test strip or taylor liquid type test, I get a reading of 3600 - 4400 depending on which test. when calibrating my unit it reads about 2400. I have cleaned it but can try again. my settings are t-15 so that is not the issue. any other thoughts?

[@rickbat6201]

I not understanding the calibration setting. My display updates to the current reading and I had assumed that the numbers are always the current stable salinity reading. Can you or anyone that reads this comment advise? Thanks

[@joelhauk7340]

Do you have a remedy for Chlorinator Off No Cell Power / Check System No Cell Power 2? Thank you in advanced

[@robertmushow6323]

Hi Mike. How do I know if the problem is with my cell or panel? My cell is about 5 years old and I know that is about the life expectancy of a cell. The problem is it stops generating. I can do the procedure in your video here and it will start generating but only for a short time. The pool store chemistry analysis says my salt level is at 3000 but my panel reports about 2300. I know it typically varies by a couple of hundred but not this much. I called Hayward and they were useless. I asked a tech guy how to determine if the problem was the cell or the panel. He told me to call an "expert" to diagnose it. They just don't want you working on this stuff yourself.

[@angelsantiago5895]

thank you thank you

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You are very welcome

[@davided.2204]

My Aqua Rite is running version 1.45 and I don't have that last diagnostic option to see the T cell number. Just bought a new t3 cell and still below 2000ppm even though I know the actual is close to 3000pm. Any thoughts?

[@joeyfesta2042]

Yes I would like to reply, Still can’t figure out why everything is running perfectly according to the system running at 3000 it’s telling me we have plenty of salt but it’s only generating about 20% whether it’s on super chlorinate or standard. ??? Please help?

[@esq2323]

Great video !

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Thanks.

[@ivanchains4840]

What if I have a TCELL940? Where do I put it with the calibration?

[@poppanolan]

Bad ass video. Thank you!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Youre welcome.

[@bujarmarku8482]

Good info 😊

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it was helpful.

[@michellesanders5854]

Good info thank you

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You’re welcome.

[@dylansinor4155]

I am receiving a green power display, but no other display is lit. Any common/easy fixes?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Test the flow sensor

[@parvaz_heech]

I have an older Aqua Rite connected to an Aqua Link system. However, the Aqua Link RS6 display does not show any info on the Aqua Rite to adjust it while the Aqua Link light is on on the Aqua Rite. The only lights on on the Aqua Rite are the power and the Aqua Link LED lights. When I unplug the flow sensor wires the no flow light stays off, also the display shows 32V but 0 amps when the pump and the salt generator (Cell 15) are running. I checked the use on the Aqua Rite and the power coming into it, they seem fine but no salt generation, no amp, and no faulty flow even when I unplug the flow wire. Any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated.

[@Later2u]

I have an older Aqua Rite that doesn't have the T cell numbers, it's an older unit ~18 years. How can I be sure it's set to the correct setting? Is it the same as the newer ones, just different? We did have a power outage a few weeks ago and now I'm having issues generating. I have a T15 cell. Thanks for the video. This thing is cryptic, just like my Jandy pool programmer. I have maintained the salt cell and I've just cleaned it.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You should try to find the old manual online. If it supports multiple sizes there must be some way to set it.

[@davewhite537]

Can you tell me why my generating light would constantly stay on Even with no flow going through the salt cell

[@retrotechandelectronics]

the generating light should not be on with the no flow light. that could lead to serious issues.

[@dtrahan123]

I have the same set up but have a T5 and when I go through settings I have everyone you showed except the t one . So I can't see what it's set on . What am I doing wrong ?

[@RickHerman62]

Thank you, but the No Flow has sold red light and I can't get it to go away! I have not one, but two sensors, one before the salt cell and one after. The manual has the sensor 12" or more past the cell. Mine is only 7" because there wasn't room to put it 12" with a new filter. The pool technician installed the sensor before the cell. One sensor is new. I've tried both sensors in both positions (before and after the cell) and cleaned the contacts on both but neither get the No Flow to turn green. I did got a flow a month a go and the system was working. The Hayward authorized dealer suggested backwashing the filter but that didn't help. Any ideas? I called for a service appointment but previous techs knew far less about the system than I do, and the closest authorized dealer is too far to service our home!

[@RickHerman62]

sorry, "solid" red light, not sold...

[@hillenbr]

I dont know what is happening. With old cell, I was getting only low salt. I tries calibrating, cleaning and all but never generating. With new, I was high salt, drained water and added fresh water. Then went to low, slowly added salt to a point that I can only pass fromm low to high salt. Its discouraging.

[@crazyboy4793]

Mine is showing a decimal. For instance 3.30 instead of 3300. Do you know how to fix that?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Select through to the temperature in centigrade. On that. Click up to super chlorinate and back down. This will convert back to imperial.

[@todddallas8084]

I have a mineral springs bioguard with a t-15 cell. The check minerals and check cell lights both stay on constantly. If i try to recalibrate it and do the 5 button push thing my salt level never moves at all, jt just stays 0. Any ideas?

[@AdrianSanchez-wo7kf]

When I do this, no flow turns off, but it says check salt and inspect cell but the generating also doesn’t turn on…. What should I do ?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

check the actual salt level, its out of bounds

[@Buckoff9900]

I have a Hayward Tcell940 what should my setting be on my system 15,9,5,3 the pool is 14000gl

[@retrotechandelectronics]

It’s written on the salt cell…

[@Buckoff9900]

@@retrotechandelectronics Only says Tcell940

[@Buckoff9900]

@@retrotechandelectronics And yes it should but it only has Tcell940 on it

[@robertmushow6323]

Can you tell me what a flashing check salt light means

[@retrotechandelectronics]

salt is too high or too low.,

[@user-dd6wv4vp4x]

How do you get rid of a HOT message on the LCD screeen?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Does your device sit in direct sun light.

[@user-dd6wv4vp4x]

@@retrotechandelectronics no sir, it's under a small roof.found another clip of wiring up a potentiometer and bypassing the temp in the salt water gen all together.going to try that today.

[@aynsleesmith9957]

@@user-dd6wv4vp4xdid it work? Mine is doing the same

[@joncruz]

Thank great video but I still have solid INSPECT CELL and CHECK SALT. ……9,000 gallons Pool and I added 240 pounds of Salt. ANY HELP? By the way I cleaned the chlorinator with acid already.

[@AdrianSanchez-wo7kf]

I have the same issue, where you able to fix yours?

[@joncruz]

@@AdrianSanchez-wo7kf Yes it was the data cable that goes from the flow sensor to the control box. Looks like a phone cable but I also changed the control flow control itself

[@michaelashley9773]

I have an intermittent power and generating lights going off.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

I would first be troubleshooting the power source.

[@stevenelwell3106]

My Salt Cell keeps flashing what is the issue and will it damage the salt cell if pool is still running?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Did you reset after inspection, is the salt too low, does it still show generating? there are many reasons why it flashes.

[@scottcardinal6147]

Your knob should be at 100% to see the - number correctly 😊

[@retrotechandelectronics]

It must only be active to see the current numbers. It can be active at a lower duty cycle, just not 100% of the time.

[@gregrussell4301]

I have a T-9 cell and my value is 4400 and I can’t get down to 3000. I tried the recalibration but it still goes back to 4400. What am I doing wrong or something else wrong?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Did you measure with a salinity test strip to ensure that the pool is actually 4400? If so, dump and add water to lower salinity.

[@ronlaubach1753]

I have the same issue. I have tested the salinity via my chemical salinity tester, which I get 3100. My pool store gets a salinity reading of 2900 from a pool water sample. My Aqua Rite unit does not drop below -4400 when performing a calibration. I did verify that my t-cell-15 is on the correct setting of t-15. This is all with a new salt cell. The unit does generate chlorine. Is there anything else I can try to get the salt reading on the unit to read correctly?

[@ianmcadam9985]

My T15 isn’t generating as of a week ago. It reads 2200. When I restart it the calibration one goes down to 800. But had my water tested two days ago and it was 3100. I shouldn’t recalibrate it using the 800 correct? Not sure what to try. Thanks.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Is the T15 set for T15?

[@lauriejohnson8272]

What is the correct t setting for a Hayward generator tcell940swp?

[@ItsTessie56]

I have a TCELL940-W which replaced my old T-CELL - 15. I found an instruction sheet online that advised me that it should also be set on T-15. Did that and it's working great.

[@corinnewalsh7628]

So does this mean that if it won’t recalibrate I need a new cell? If so I’m so disappointed with Hayward. I’ve only used this system for 2 summer and if I have to replace the cell every 2 years then I will be sure to let everyone know not to buy Hayward products