Jetson Bolt Pro Rear Wheel Removal Part 1

[@E-BikeHub]

When removing the rear caliper, if you take out the lateral screws instead of the screws with the spacer you can pull the caliper off of the rotor without messing with the lateral adjustments of the rear brake. That is usually the trickiest part of any brake adjustment (and you don't have to worry about all the little spacers falling off of the ground/ figuring out how they were originally configured)! Great video, thank you! Im replacing a motor for a jetson bolt at our E-Bike shop and this is super helpful!

[@JoediyLab]

Thanks for the tip

[@KasirRham]

Your level of patience is unbelievable. Anything dealing with the back wheel of the bolt pro is immensely annoying.

[@JoediyLab]

You did not hear all of the foul language, off camera. LOL, Thanks for the feedback

[@nathanielmichael2252]

Ty is understatement

[@mikeemmons1079]

I have my pro torn down and on blocks, doing a refit. Got the new rotors this week. Went to install them... 3 hex bolts on the rear are spun out. I gotta buy another tool.

[@erik7452]

Sir, I think it's much easier! To remove the rear wheel, it usually works well without removing the brake caliper or anything else from the brake. IF, you still need to make room for the brake disc when the wheel is pulled back, the easiest way is to remove just ONE screw - the rear of the two - that holds the ENTIRE caliper, and then twist the caliper a bit - and pull the wheel out. That screw can sit really hard so you may need a piece of pipe as an extension for the Allen key. Don't forget to use a blue thread lock (Blue Loctite) when screwing the removed screw back into place. And... when you need to change the rear tire, you don't have to remove the entire cable and mess with the entire cable nest... You "just turn the wheel" so that the motor cable points downwards, then you have free access to change the tire. Best regards

[@JoediyLab]

To remove the brake rotor you have to remove the motor wires.

[@AlexMiller-t4b]

Where are you from I have a 2013 gsxr750 need help timing it can you post pics of the marks?

[@JoediyLab]

Let me check the manual, I am located in North County area San Diego, CA

[@AlexMiller-t4b]

I appreciate it do you have a instagram or something that I can pm you on

[@JoediyLab]

@@AlexMiller-t4b ignition timing is handled by the ECM, in other words it is not adjustable. At least not manually. If you have an ECM tuner you may be able to adjust ignition timing, but normally the ECM handles any timing for a stock engine.

[@AlexMiller-t4b]

I need cam timing

[@JoediyLab]

@@AlexMiller-t4b there are several videos on my channel that cover valve clearance and setting up the crank position. Did you watch those. If you go to my about page my email address is listed. Send me an email and I will send you some images. Are you trying to check your valve clearance?

[@judasromo9407]

I seen in other videos you have a basket is that a regular one or special for this bike?

[@JoediyLab]

Check the description of that video there is an amazon link that you can use to purchase the basket.

[@brandons84664]

Hey Joe, have tou posted part 2 of this? Im not seeing it. Trying to get the wire to pull back. But way too tight to fish through. Did you cut all the conectors off to get to fish though? A neighbor wrecked ours and bent the rotar, so trying to replace it. Thanks in advance!

[@JoediyLab]

Hey Brandon, Part 2 will be posted tomorrow. Part 3 will be posted on August 10th. Thanks

[@JoediyLab]

Part 3 is reassembly so you should have enough after tomorrow, Thanks

[@brandons84664]

@@JoediyLab You're awesome, thank you so much!

[@brandons84664]

Hey Joe, your part 2 is the assembly of it back, shouldnt be the second part of taking it apart? How did you get the wires through the frame? I can't get them to go through. Did you cut the connector ends?

[@JoediyLab]

@@brandons84664 I used a piece of stainless steel wire to pull the wires back into the battery compartment. It is pretty easy to run the wire. Then tape with wires to the steel wire. Out some slack in the rear brake cable and gently work the wires through into the battery compartment

[@malingehring165]

You remove the caliper by removing the entire assembly from the frame directly.. That way you will not change any of the adjustments of the calipler and can just bolt everything back on instantly.

[@philhampton8294]

No problem the missing part not showing taking wirers out. They will slide right through the frame . Then put them back on outside of frame with ties.

[@JoediyLab]

Sorry I just checked, I must have screwed up on the video upload. I am out of town until October, when I get back I will upload. I used a piece of stainless wire to fish the wires down through the frame tube, also creating slack in the brake cable, and was able to easily fish the wire back into the battery compartment.

[@philhampton8294]

new problem the roter bolts are stuck. I will order a torch and try shocking thew with out burning the motor.@@JoediyLab roter

[@JoediyLab]

Get yourself some hex head sockets and a torch, and some penetrating fluid. That should work.

[@nonameman343]

Where is the part 2

[@JoediyLab]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXaXeJ-uerWbjNk

[@bagchaser5036]

we’re the rest of the video

[@philhampton8294]

The hardest part is not shown? Feeding the wires through the shielding then the frame. This is a nightmare fix. I'm going to try and reroute the wires out side the frame? I will never buy a electric that has this problem again junk. Bad design use once through away.

[@JoediyLab]

Watch the third video I created, I used a piece of stainless steel wire and had no problem doing do.