Juki MO-114D serger revue and recommendation.Two thumbs up. If you want a good serger. 👍(Video 234)

[@ronalddevine9587]

QUALITY says it all. Apparently Juki has a solid conscience and reputation. Good for them.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Indeed 👍🏼

[@staceymccarthy2697]

I bought one a month ago based on your video. You are right! It's a good one. I need a magnifier to help me thread it due to my old, tired eyes, but it is working well! Thanks! I thought I could cheat and just tie the threads onto the old thread...Naaah.... Just re-thread it correctly when you change colors so you don't mess anything up. And I am using large spools and have the cones right side up even though the manual says upside down. Seems to be working well.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Excellent. I’m glad your having success with it. They are indeed, quality sergers. 👍😎

[@geralynlima9152]

Love your honesty! “Their hard to thread.”

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Thank you for your kind comment and thanks for watching.

[@joanna7098]

I have a Bernina Overlocker 800DL, made for Bernina by Juki, nearly identical to the one featured here. The ONLY time it gives me grief is from human error (threading blunder). Can't say that about my other non-vintage machines. Thank you so much for all your videos! It's great how you tell it like it is when comes to some of the jalopies on sale these days. :)

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

You’re welcome. I enjoy working on sewing machines, especially the vintage classics. It’s fun to help folks pick the right machine and have the info to keep them running well.

[@MyMike509]

Great timing (no pun inteneded) - was just seriously considering getting this machine! I own a 1985 White 534 Superlock serger (no differential feed) but a workhorse nonetheless. Looking forward to adding this to the corral - thanks for the thumbs up and recommendation! New subscriber - love the vintage machines - all the ones I own will last forever, with minimal care!

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

😎👍🏼

[@suzannemiller993]

I disagree a bit about the jet threading. I've had a Baby Lock for 2 decades with the jet air threading. Works great for me! Love my serger!

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Every plane was flying, right before it crashed. Every boat was floating,right before it sank. Every sewing machine was working, until right before it failed. Moral: just because something is working today, it doesn’t guarantee that it will be working tomorrow. The question is, is it repairable or worth repairing for value? That’s when the consumer says, “I’ll just buy another one”. And the beat goes on. City landfill on line one, “sure, bring your new plastic sewing machine on down, we’ve got plenty of room”, Aside: two decades is twenty years. I’ve been in this business for 50 years, I’ve seen so many “gimmicks” come and go it’s hard to keep track of them all. My favorite was the Singer machine that had a built in vacuum that sucked the thread through the needle. It worked on the sales floor at the Singer store, then failed to function soon thereafter. City landfill on line one, “bring that failed experiment on down, we’ve got plenty of room “. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.

[@mjremy2605]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Ha ha ha! I agree. I ONLY use vintage all metal sewing machines. That one camstack that had a plastic ring on it, on the 6030 vintage Viking Husqvarna machine had cracked on every single machine from the sound of people complaining. One plastic part and the whole machine was rendered useless. Fortunately, Taiwan came to the rescue (high quality not like mainland China) and produced an identical camstack which I fixed myself and my machine came back to life. Why did it crack? Plastic shrinks with age and it was around a metal core and the old 25 Watt sewing lights were very, very hot and heated up plastic parts. So it cracked, so predictable. I only use LED bulbs now. The other 'electronic' improvement was the Bernina 930 Record which is the Rolls Royce of vintage machines and almost all metal but... it has a circuit panel for a few electronic 'advances', and invariably on EVERY old 930, the capacitors are blown or they blow while you work on it, scaring you with the smoke and bang. So first thing you have to do is replace them. The Singer 301, Singer 221, Kenmore 19410/1/2 series have virtually no issues. They soldier on decade after decade when oiled and cleaned on schedule. I love that. I want everything in my life to be like those tanks - low maintenance, robust build, no drama. I totally agree with you about vintage machines. The 60s and 70s reached the zenith of sewing machine quality. In the 80s they degraded. Singer died out by 60s. I can also maintain them myself with no pricey tech fees for electronics. Self threading is Mis-leading.

[@Fattiapples]

Any thoughts on the mo80cb? I like that it has a free arm

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

There’s innumerable sergers with that free-arm feature, so you can look at others as well. My concern with the new sergers is that they’re using nonmetal connections for their looper drive rods. If you don’t push it too hard and keep it serviced, it will probably be ok. If you get one with recessed tension assemblies, be sure to pull your thread down tightly between the tension discs before starting to sew.

[@timrupp2944]

I was considering a 104D. You didnt mention it in this video so Im wondering what are the differences and why you prefer the 114D over the 104D? Im going to buy one soon and want to be sure I choose the better of the two.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Different model numbers usually mean different operational features. The 104-D is a three thread overlock serger. Same build quality, with just the overlock. If you’re looking to just finish the seam, it’s a good choice. Most folks get a 4 thread serger and end up using just three threads anyway. A four thread is called a “mock safety lock stitch” because it gives the appearance of a safety stitch, but it really doesn’t. I have customers who spend thousands of dollars to get the latest “gimmick” sergers with several threads, and they only use three. Get a 104-D and you’ll get good results. 😎👍🏼

[@Jaylene2191]

I need one for serging denim pant hems when keeping original hem. How does this one handle? I currently have a brother babylock victory. Does not handle thicker fabrics well.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

These sergers are designed to serge the edge of two layers of thin to medium weight fabrics. I don’t know of any household serger that will perform the task you have in mind. Very few industrial sergers will do that either. It’s not what they’re designed to do. Everyone tries, everyone fails. They keep trying, they keep failing. It’s curious to me. I’ve been observing this phenomenon for over 50 years now. They use the word “only” quite often. Because whenever you you the word only, it immediately minimizes whatever term that follows. Example: I’m only sewing two yardsticks together. Or, I’m only sewing eight layers of denim. These sergers just won’t perform beyond their capabilities. Sorry about that bad news.

[@2Rese]

I just got this serger and so far I really enjoy it. However I have had 1 issue with it that is hit or miss. The lower looper thread seems to get twisted and then comes out of the lowest thread guide. (The double coil that where the front coil holds the red and the back holds the blue) sometimes it comes out after 15 seconds of sewing after rethreading, sometimes it if 15 minutes. I have tried multiple thread spools. Any suggestions?

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Every serger I repair is mis-threaded. If you miss a single guide: bad stitch. If the thread is not pulled down into the tension assembly (x 4) :bad stitch. If you thread the lower looper without removing the needle plate to observe the correct threading: bad stitch. If you haven’t turned every screw and knob trying to cure a misthreaded machine, just thread it correctly and you’ll probably be back in business. Give that a try. 😎👍🏼

[@Fattiapples]

hi randy, can i get your assistance again? are the seam guide marks on the cover plate (1/2, 5/8, etc) the distance from where the left needle hits the fabric? I noticed the marks on this 114 model seem further to the right from the left edge of the cover plate than the marks on the 654 model and can't tell just from looking on the computer screen. i don't particularly like how the cover on the 654 is big/bulgy. however, the markings on the 114 seem not as prominent and further away from the foot presser/needle so may not be as useful as the 654. thoughts?

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

The only way to know the distance is to get a small ruler a measure it. Is it the distance from the edge of the foot, or from the needle in the center position? I have a machinists steel ruler that I use to be sure. The ruler is a hardware store item.😎👍

[@Fattiapples]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 ok got it. thanks randy. and you definitely prefer this model over the juki 654? does it have better motor and blade? will i be able to do thicker and heavier fabrics? or since the juki 654 is way cheaper i should just go with that insteadd

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@Fattiapples I haven’t done a side by side comparison of the two. Their motors will be virtually identical. The knife setup will also be similar. Neither one is best suited for sewing heavy fabrics. Sergers are for joining two light layers of fabrics together to make a garment. It’s easy to exceed their abilities with additional layers.

[@Fattiapples]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I see, thanks for the response. I was hoping to use for the thicker fabrics like Sherpa or fleece

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@Fattiapples be careful. A serger does three things in this order: 1) it trims the fabric first 2)it feeds the fabric second 3) it sews the fabric third If the fabric is too thick to trim, it will fail to feed, causing a subsequent failure to sew resulting in a jam or broken looper. In my 51 years, I’ve seen it countless times. Be very cautious of multiple layers of anything that can’t be trimmed without hesitation.

[@Fattiapples]

is it much larger than the 654? i'm not sure if 114 is in my budget but i do like that it is easier to thread

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

They’re about the same size. My greatest concern with the newer sergers is the looper drive rod connections are being made from nonmetal parts. That shouldn’t be an issue unless you really use one on tough fabrics for extended periods without regular service intervals.

[@Fattiapples]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 do you mean the 114 being the newer model using the plastic parts or all juki sergers being produced these days? Does the 654 have the plastic piece too?

[@Fattiapples]

Ok randy I picked up this baby and brought it home! However, I noticed the box says MO-114DN. What the heck is the N? Is my machine different than yours the MO-114D? please help me figure this conundrum out.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

I don’t know what the n is for. I doubt if there are any significant differences.

[@bakercxj]

I read somewhere that the N means it was made in China. Not sure if that's true or not.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@bakercxj who knows. Since I have absolutely no clue what it means, I’ll accept that until someone smarter than me says otherwise in a convincing manner. 😂😎👍🏼

[@Fattiapples]

@@bakercxj the dealer told me the n means it’s the model with led light. My box says made in Vietnam

[@mjremy2605]

REVIEW, dear man, not REVUE. A REVUE is a musical theatre performance.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@mjremy2605 don’t tell me, tell the predictive text that changed my word because they no better. Thanx four pointing that out though, eye hate typos two. 🤣👍🏼😎