How to Rebuild a VW Air-Cooled Engine "PART 1" Engine Tear down and Inspection | JW Classic VW

**JW Classic VW** brings you a video that covers how to rebuild your stock 40 HP Volkswagen Engine. This 1st video will cover the inspection of the key engine components to see what's good or bad.
📽📽📽 Video Time Line Break Down 📽📽📽
7:45 Cylinder Removal
10:22 Case Nuts Removal
11:45 Oil Pump Removal
13:05 Splitting the Case
17:20 Marking Your Lifters
20:14 CAM Bearing Inspection
21:23 Main Bearing Inspection
24:50 Lifter Inspection
26:54 Case Inspection
33:00 Oil Pump Inspection
36:00 CAM Inspection
37:35 Piston & Cylinder Inspection
41:25 Rocker Arm Inspection
44:05 Cylinder Head Inspection
50:25 Crank Shaft Inspection
🛠* Parts List & Tools *🛠
Tools
Crank Gear Puller: amzn.to/2H4uLUf
Parts
Piston Cylinder kit 87x69mm 1641: amzn.to/3kfdC8t
Piston Cylinder kit 85x69mm 1600: amzn.to/3m1eJZT
Engine rebuild kit with pushrod tubes: amzn.to/2HcxDOM
Dowel Pins Mains 5ea: amzn.to/2EwNgMw
Main Bearings |STD: amzn.to/2W5kwFq
CAM Bearing: amzn.to/2YRwTSp
Cylinder Head Deflector Tin: amzn.to/31m6Mqy
Engine Front Tin | No Holes: amzn.to/31nIhch
Oil Strainer Kit 40HP: amzn.to/3jkSFId
Engine Deluxe Hardware Kit 10mm: amzn.to/2ILYuBN
** Parts List for the 40 HP rebuild- / files
- just look for the excel doc but check out the other resource docs there.
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Any information on performing maintenance or modifying your vehicle viewed on this channel is intended for general guidance only and must never be considered a substitute for the advice provided by a Certified Professional.
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[@JWClassicVW]

YUP, YUP The New video series has started!! How to rebuild your stock VW engine with a few upgrades along the way. Maybe, going with a SCAT C25 CAM kit will be really cool! Oh, and did you catch a few of my screw-ups in the video... LOL this will be a strong 1600 Build not a 1641cc, and of course, that valve spring that is in backwards!!! Don't forget to LIKE, SHARE, and SUBSCRIBE!!!!! Thanks everyone!

[@vayabroder729]

Did you have your 1& 2 cylinders mixed up? 😉

[@JWClassicVW]

@@vayabroder729 lol... nope, but I did forget for a second... 😆

[@ibrewster]

So why a strong 1600 instead of 1641? I'm looking to rebuild my stock 1600dp and thought going to 1641 was a no brainer.

[@JWClassicVW]

@@ibrewster Just what I have, this is a pretty new set so no real reason to replace. I have heard that the 1641 set can have some issues sealing against the cylinder head due to the thickness of the piston-cylinder wall.

[@DanTheManIOM]

40 HP is an 1192 and that engine is different than a 1600 - cam bearings vs no cam bearing(40), and o rings (1600) on main engine bolts...??? NRN .. I will watch and learn...

[@scottlymbery7948]

Thought I'd report back. Recently completed my first engine rebuild on my 2 Litre Kombi. (T2 Bus for you Americans) Had a stripped cam gear where I think one of the bolts from the cam gear came into contact with the oil pump. Extremely satisfying the first time you fire it up. Been driving it around again for the last month now without problems. A chunk of the credit for that goes to your videos. With it and the manuals managed to muddle through to a successful conclusion. Cheers

[@JWClassicVW]

That'd awesome brother!! So happy for you, and yes that 1st fire is an amazing feeling!

[@actualsurfer]

'56 is the best year...right behind the '66! One of the best engine build videos.

[@JWClassicVW]

Yes I do love my 56!! Thanks so much man I'm looking forward to finishing this series.

[@ibrewster]

Dude, you are the man when in comes to lighting and zoom. So many videos where you can't see anything with poor lighting, shaky cameras, and hands and shoulders in the way. Definitely using this one as a reference. Keep up the excellent work!

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks so much John!! Just shot it the way I'd wanna see it. Glad your enjoying the channel man!

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Got an update on my project 40hp engine. Starting to rebuild it and got the new conrod bearings installed and torqued to the crank shaft. Got new lifters and crank bearings jugs and pistons from aaperformance. after reading up on these engines the tolerances were so tight, and they put these case halves together without sealant and the jugs without gaskets. Was confused by understand why when rebuilding these to use the sealant and gaskets which come in the new gasket kit. So, need to order the kit here soon to continue building it. I think it will run pretty good for an old 65 40hp with stock stuff back in it.

[@kabochii_mlbb2276]

Me and my husband are both volkswagen lover here in Philippines... I uploaded also the volkswagen engine he rebuild... And I am so proud of him....... God bless and keep up the good work sir!

[@JWClassicVW]

Very cool! I'll need to go check it out!! Feel free to join the JW Classic VW Facebook group and share your video!

[@Gamepwn3]

If you taught a class on how to rebuild your type 1 id pay to attend!! Excellent video!

[@johnny85er]

this is EXACTLY where I'm at, thank you for the information and video. I look forward to more

[@JWClassicVW]

Glad it was helpful!

[@TheWhitetailrancher]

Another great video brother! Very well done, good teaching and workmanship! thank you for putting this series out! "You don't need a bigger fan in a stock type of set up". IF you live in a warm climate.....

[@JWClassicVW]

Thank you.. yup finally getting back to this series after a long Turbo build.

[@Markus-bu1cp]

This was exactly what I was looking for! Super informative video, thank you for this. Just got into the bug scene and got 2 extra broken motors (1300&1600) to go with it. Gonna crack them open and see is either of them still worthy of restoring.

[@JWClassicVW]

Glad it helped!

[@franciscoreis5091]

Excellent work congratulations for your help.

[@dadsbudgetbuggyrebuildproj6399]

Great video. I'm starting to rebuild an old dunebuggy and this is perfect . Thanks.

[@JWClassicVW]

Glad it helped, I'm looking forward to finishing the series early next year.

[@volkswatson]

Great overview. Bookmarking in case I need a rebuild.

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks for the support brother... gonna be a good series, I've never used the SCAT Cam kits so it should be cool!

[@bambam-ei1gr]

this is just the video i needed i've worked on and rebuild engines but never a vw engine so thanks for the video. this is going to help me in doing my roadstration of my pawpaws 74 thing.

[@JWClassicVW]

Glad it helped

[@kevinhamling1963]

G'day Jason, Kevin here from Australia. Some great information this is going to be a great series. Anyhoo stay safe and stay well. Peace man.

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks for the support as always Kevin!! Hope all is well down under!!

[@patrickmclaughlin6013]

This video is a gold mine Thank You

[@JWClassicVW]

Glad you liked it!!

[@fairworld2522]

Thanks JW. This is excellent tutorial.

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks, definitely can't wait to finish up this build series. Coming in October probably.

[@haskyb9184]

Glad to see you’re back behind the camera again 👍🏻

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks Ben!! Glad to be back at it!

[@haskyb9184]

@@JWClassicVW I was starting to think it’d been too long since you last uploaded. As I’ve said before, I find your tech knowledge a really good resource for me. I’ll save this to watch later on with a beer 🍻

[@rongibbs1778]

Where can I find videos on bearning failure, I am very impressed on the three videos of yours

[@carlossze]

Good information. Keep the great work! Greetings from Brazil!

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks, will do!

[@davyboscart1089]

Ok I did all this what's next! 😜 Very useful and good cinema! 👍🎥🇧🇪

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks Davy!! Glad your enjoying the build series so far... next video coming soon... I'll be working on it some tomorrow. Thanks for all the support!

[@KellerChristoph]

In, 2020 I paid $475 for line bore, thrust bearing weld and resurface, plus case savers installed. Most machine shops in my area out East, don't wanna touch VW cases any more.

[@JWClassicVW]

That is true, seems like you almost have no choice now to ship cases out for services.

[@JamesVomit]

It's a thousand bucks here in Northwest Florida. And the shop that does it, isn't even that good. Cip1 sells a case for about that much so around here it's not worth machining your case. We're better off buying new.

[@JWClassicVW]

Wow... thats expensive

[@gustavopadilla9176]

Great video keep them up

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks brother, glad your here and enjoying the fun!

[@SanDiego_VDubLife]

I’m thinking I’m going to try and rebuild my engine myself with this great video. I want to go big in the future but that’s gonna cost about $4,000 so I’m gonna see how much I can get out of this 1500 case. Jaa😂

[@RichyN25]

just bought a beetle for $500, comes with 2 engines, some assembly required, so I'm sure this video series will come in handy, I'm in North Texas

[@JWClassicVW]

I hope they help out! Let me know you have any questions and be sure to join the FB group... JW Classic VW. Lots of good people in there willing to help out as well.

[@RichyN25]

@@JWClassicVW Well I got the beetle, only one engine, I was mistaken, but it looks like the engine might be seized since I can't turn it over by hand, and it appears the previous>previous owner attempted to crack open the case already, as it's partially separated, and missing most the bolts, it does have case savers in it, it's a 1971 Super Beetle, first step is to clean everything up, engine first, and see what I'm dealing with

[@VWJawbreaker]

Good info bud.

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks brother!

[@JWClassicVW]

Question was deleted before I could reply about "why mark the lifters" good question... here is my reply. Definitely a no go on that... during Cam break in the lifters are mated to the particular cam lobe and form a particular pattern that if mixed up can cause premature failure or wipe out the cam and lifters. Lots of options on this as with most things but I hold fast to this belief. Check out this Samba thread on it. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=596400

[@ericcainer7755]

Hi Jess I found your video on over heating. Watched it and thanks for your info. I was working on Custom Made J Tubes. The Heater Box and it’s poor attempt to perform it’s duty for what it is called. I’m in Canada, Montreal to be exact, with the true meaning of the Heater Box and it’s multipurpose design. I was gifted in my younger years to be exposed to dealership engineering with Porsche. I Got the low down on cooling of the Turbo and 911 series Porsche. Latent Heat Transfer how the sinks and the thickness of to exhaust pipe walls absorb heat and are cooled via the shroud on the beetle of it yesteryears. 1980’s. Straps with metal claps blocks of metal to your J tubes and recheck your temperatures again. You’ll be quite surprised of the heat transfer from the heads to the j tubes.

[@JWClassicVW]

That sounds super interesting, I image having a well working heating system on your VW in Canada would be a must if you plan on driving her during the cooler months of the year.

[@mohamedjaleel1229]

Hi brother' you are great I must confess!

[@JWClassicVW]

Thanks brother appreciate the love!

[@rosendomakiputin819]

Good job, sir, thank you mechanic first.

[@JWClassicVW]

Your welcome!! Thank you for joining the channel, hope it helps.

[@captainryusugi1128]

My great-grandfather's '73 Beetle. I am glad that some kid in California extended her legacy, yet I am sad that I didn't get to keep her in the family.

[@JWClassicVW]

It's always nice to know that a family love is going to live on!

[@ericcainer7755]

Below or lower part of the cylinder head is an excellent location to add Heat Sinks. Drill Three holes and tap. 10 mm or 13 mm. Make sure you have push rod clearance and install Studs. Bolt on a Heat Sink. Size according to fit remember conductance an convection.

[@JWClassicVW]

This in theory could actually be part of the connection at the head... different gauged adapters could be installed in line with a j-tube to dissipate different levels of heat.

[@martinharris5017]

LOVE the video, great instruction for beginners and entertaining style. One point though... 8.36 I thought 83mm was 1498cc (1500) and 85.5mm was 1600cc, with 87mm bringing it to 1640cc? Only reason I say this is because I'm just honing and re-ringing a 1600 motor with pistons marked "85.46" and checked my bore which measures 85.5 on my calipers. When I purchased the rings my shop confirmed they are "for 1600 not 1640". I'm no expert so feel free to correct me on this!

[@JWClassicVW]

You are correct, that was a mistake on my part.

[@ericcainer7755]

Conductivity The rate at which heat passes through a specified material, expressed as the amount of heat that flows per unit time through a unit area with a temperature gradient of one degree per unit distance. Copper J Tubes as well as Zink Heat Sinks with a Aluminum sheet metal Heat Shield. The connections at the exhaust port on the head and the face of the J Tube should be engineered similarly as the Type 4 exhaust port. With a pure copper O Ring as the sealing gasket. The Greater Surface contact the more Heat Transfer through Convection.

[@JWClassicVW]

Sure it is true with grater surface area you would have better heat transfer at the head... this also plays into the requirement to have a good valve job as the heads find some of there cooling through the valve seat surface. What percentage of the heat in the J-tubes do you think is exhaust gases vs heat generated from the head?

[@billh2531]

85.46 barrels make a 1584, not a 1641. Rounding up: 85.5x85.5x69x .0031416=1584 bore x bore x stroke x pie. To get 1641, you use 87s 1678, use 88s.

[@JWClassicVW]

You are correct, my mistake

[@billh2531]

Glad to add to the task. Love VWs and hope to have one to build again soon.

[@brianjohn2894]

Hi just saw the video and being a novice I feel so confident to open the engine and give it a crack the engine rumbles on cold startups then setters been told main bearings if you can make a video on how to replace new bearning and how to install rings on pistons as they go in different directions to prevent oil leaks would be great got a 1600 twin port

[@JWClassicVW]

That's awesome glad you like the video!! I'm going to finish this series once I get the Turbo running.

[@ericcainer7755]

Most VW After Market Engine Builders seem to wrap their J Tubes with a material, that in some cases is what one would want, but to Improve is what we are all about. It keeps heat from rising while at a stand still. True. But to keep cylinder head temperatures within an operating envelope while moving and stationary would not a heat deflector be more to ones needs. Made of sheet metal that would be strapped to the J Tube. When in motion should I say more. Cylinder Head Exhaust Studs. Steel or copper? Heat transfers again! Plus sinks.

[@VWRICH23]

I thought you forgot about us 😱😁😁

[@JWClassicVW]

Lol... never, just very very busy.

[@richardciviello3817]

Hey jay what Mobil 1 oil filter number did you use when you did the full flow system on your 56

[@ghanaf84]

Thanks for the video, I want to convert my type 1 engine from 1300cc to 1600cc on a budget. Is it enough to only replace the heads and pistons and cylinders while keeping everything else assuming its in a decent condition?

[@ericcainer7755]

The topic at hand on heat transfer would be narrowed down to 3 sections. 1) The inner, as well as outer diameter of the JTube The inner, in most cases, would be 2in to 2 ¼ inches. The outer diameter would be one of the Variables. 2) The gasket between the cylinder head a J tube what it’s fabrication will be . Think COPPER and it thickness. 3) The sinks sized to the theoretical demands required and what the heat sinks are made from. Thick Zink. These were and are preliminary thoughts.

[@JWClassicVW]

You know Mike FN did a video or two on making his own heater boxes through some pretty cool fabrication, it would be nice to have a simple one sided snap-on or bolt on option for heat... all made of stainless steel.

[@naeemmughal3097]

Hi Jason, Would you know if painting the engine block black or silver has any advantages or disadvantages. Also we do not have the variety of sealants you mentioned ..like Curil T, Marvel mystery oil. Most of what we get here are silicon based gasket makers. Any opinion on this. Thanks.

[@mikehammer4546]

Very good video, couple of questions; I heard that on a stock 1200 / 40 hp motor you could install 1600 rockers for a little more lift. Can you speak to that. On the rings, will you talk about ring clearance ? Lastly,McAndress you upgrade a stock 1200 sp to a 1600/1641. I wanted to do the Big bore kit on my 1200, what the difference ? Thanks for doing this.

[@JWClassicVW]

No problem Mike!! Gonna have some good stuff in this series for sure. Those are some good questions, I'll be sure to cover them.

[@Buglife59]

Hey on those bolt on valve cover do that little rubber o ring goes inside the cover or outside

[@JWClassicVW]

Normally on the outside if they are the ones I'm thinking they are.

[@punxsutawneyareabmxriding598]

My late father was a Volkswagen Head Mechanic & Central Volkswagen in Dubois the 40hp didn't have cam bearing.

[@JWClassicVW]

The later VW replacement 40hp does have cam bearings... the 36hp and early 40hp engines didn't have them and had to be machined to accept them... see the link below. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/index.php/o-t--t-348164--.html

[@harryloibl5183]

With your experience what size would you think you can go to on the dual port twin oil release value

[@JWClassicVW]

Are you talking about a dual oil relief case?

[@naeemmughal3097]

Just starting the rebuild of my 1972 1600 Transporter. The con rods have matching numbers on the caps and a forging mark on each rod also on the same side of the numbers. What is the direction they face while assembling.

[@JWClassicVW]

I go over the install of the rods in a later video in this series. It's at around 14:10 kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4XSpWOVqst1fcU

[@harryloibl5183]

Jason what is the benefit for replacing the rocker shaft with the solid thanks

[@JWClassicVW]

With more aggressive CAM profiles and higher rev'ing engines the wavy washer set-up on the stock rocker shafts will fail breaking the wavy washers.

[@kite7214]

Loved your enthusiasm Jason. Even this Brit appreciated your sense of ‘bueno’ humour. :-) I want to rebuild my original 1944 Type 1 25hp motor and have found some new pistons and bearings to fit in Finland. Do you have any contacts for 1940’s parts at all? I do not use Facebook. Thanks a lot mate, Keith

[@JWClassicVW]

Hey there Keith... unfortunately I don't have any contacts for early VW... they are getting harder and harder to find. OG 1944, now that is amazing!

[@harryloibl5183]

Jason what are your thoughts on the cb performance 40 duel twin Webber thanks for the 1600

[@JWClassicVW]

Can't say to much man, I've never bought them, but CB is well known for quality.

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

👍

[@JWClassicVW]

👍😎👍

[@Spiderjolly]

hi great vid, i didnt see an oil slinger on your crank. or did i miss something?

[@JWClassicVW]

Installed in the crank shaft build part of the engine series. In this video it had already been removed.

[@ctreatman]

Hey Jason. Figured I'd get our conversation over to the correct videos/playlist. I have another question. I have no machine shops locally and will have to send out my case to be inspected and line bored. There's a very small piece of the case on the #2 side lower engine bolt that's missing and it was mounted to it's last transmission just fine but when I pulled the engine the stud cought and pulled out what looks like a spring. Not sure if the case can even be reused with that little chunk missing but it was being used this way previously. Not sure how to send a picture to you but I'd love your opinion before I start spending money on shipping and boring. Do you mind taking a look?

[@JWClassicVW]

Sounds like you pulled out a Helicoil, if the case is cracked and had a Helicoil installed best guess is she needs to be replaced. But honestly these can be repaired by a competent machine shop with VW experience. They'll also tell you if the case is trash.

[@ctreatman]

@@JWClassicVW definitely not cracked anywhere but there is that little chunk of alloy that is missing where the helicoil was inserted. The rest of the case looks great it literally looks like 1-2 mm of mag missing

[@ctreatman]

@@JWClassicVW So yet another question. How do you REMOVE the connecting rod nuts and bolts? I had that piston cause alot of damage and think I should be inspecting the rod bearings although there is no movement in them and they fall over wonderfully. Thoughts?

[@FunFun-tv7gq]

Thanks a lot for sharing the tips and info. BTW which lifter would you recommend, stock , light, light with oil lube hole or which one? Thanks from Melbourne, Australia 🇦🇺 for your help in advance.

[@JWClassicVW]

Hello there!! Australia! Hope your doing well out there.... what kinda engine are we talking about here? Stock., modified? If stock I would just stick with a stock lifter. I have Engle lifters in my 2276cc and they do great... there not light weight or anything like that just some good after market. What you want to pay attention to is the are where the pushrod goes into the lifter cup. Stock cups are smaller to keep the pushrod tip oriented correctly, some aftermarket lifter have an oversized cup that may or may not cause issues.

[@FunFun-tv7gq]

Thanks a lot Jason for your help.

[@FunFun-tv7gq]

Hey Jason, I am rebuilding a stock 1600cc that has 85.5 piston heads (bought it as is). And I was only buying cam followers as per your advise But I thought to check the lobes of the cam shaft as per your other video I was watching the other day and found that first and last lobes are similar size and the two in the middle are kind of same size which is different from the first set by roughly 0.25 mm. Now should I replace that cam shaft as well while I am there ? Knowing that I am on budget if you advise me to change the cam shaft and followers for sure so what kind would advise as I do not want to change the bush rods nor anything related, also knowing that I am a pharmacist so I will not be into real math and engineering as you explain in your videos 😃😃 Long story short, should I change the cam shaft too? If yes what size and kind as I want to stick to stock. Once again thanks for all your help and sorry about the lengthy message. Cheers. 🍻

[@FunFun-tv7gq]

Hey Jason, I was not sure if you’ve seen my question about the cam head and followers ? Is Engle 110 a good option for a standard 1600cc with standard valve springs ? Any beneficial as in power or torque ?

[@JWClassicVW]

I would for sure look at a new cam and for a close to stock replacement CB offers their cheater cam. I wouldn't go with the 110 on a stock set up unless you plan other upgrades. Check out some details here offered by Aircooled.net. ( vwparts.aircooled.net/Engle-W110-Type-1-Camshaft-1-1-or-1-25-Rockers-p/e6110.htm ) The Engle W110 Classic VW Bug camshaft grind is designed for 1.1 or 1.25 rockers, and it's specs are .392" Cam Lift, .430" Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers), 284 degrees of advertised duration, and 247 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center. This is the most popular and best all-around street cam ever made for a VW engine. You can not use this with a stock carburetor, you really need at least 2bbls of carb (Center mount 2bbl, dual 1bbls, or dual 2bbls). This cam works "OK" with stock heads, but it's performance is much better with some porting, and especialy if larger valves are used. Expect a powerband of 1500-5800 RPMs, the more headwork and carburetion the better the low end will be. You can get by with HD Single Valve springs and Bolt On Rocker Shafts. Use a compression ratio of 8.25-8.75:1. If you choose to use this cam with 1.25 rockers, you will extend the top end to 6000, but DUAL SPRINGS ARE REQUIRED. If you want to stick with Engle a W100 may be better to go.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

I use to put my push rods into a cardboard box noted front back drivers side passenger so they would go back in the same place on solid lifter engines non adjustable. on this 40 horse was thinking why bother since the valves are adjustable on VW's. Well, I did the same with the lifters. So just wondering why would it make a difference since the valves will be adjusted anyway. I'm not getting the reason? Thanks Tim

[@JWClassicVW]

With the lifters the face is worn to the CAM. The become matched during break-in and wear together over time. This is info I've picked up from some good sources, apparently you can wipe out a CAM and the lifters if they get mixed up.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

They are probably worn out anyway and need replacing. Same with the pushrods. The came look great though and no bushings on this 1200 40hp. Got a good shopping list going now and just ordered the crank gear puller to finish the teardown.

[@vayabroder729]

To split the block you can also use one of those case splitters: vwparts.aircooled.net/Crank-Case-Splitter-for-Oil-Pump-Hole-All-Engines-p/case-splitter.htm

[@JWClassicVW]

Yes sir!! Those work great!

[@bgordon7654]

I’m local to your area and will be doing a rebuild on my 65 with in the year. Who is the local VW shop you mentioned?

[@JWClassicVW]

That would be Henry at Bugoholics in Pasadena. www.bugoholics.com/

[@badbug911]

Will you be running a velocity ring on your fanshroud.

[@JWClassicVW]

No probably not on this 1600 motor... don't really see a huge benefit for it here.

[@manningcustom]

should the lifters be concave or convex?

[@JWClassicVW]

Convex, should be able to slightly rock the face against a flat surface.

[@terryfleming7084]

How is the best way to clean, and removing paint from the case?

[@JWClassicVW]

Probably a pressure washer and some paint remover, or the hard way wire wheel in the drill... lol that's what i did.

[@MrGarcon98]

nice over all ,,,just wondering if you cross hatch your cylinders ? i did not see that thanks very nice job

[@JWClassicVW]

These rings have actually already been seated before. I was thinking about doing it anyway and still may. Thanks for being here!

[@MrGarcon98]

@@JWClassicVW cool years ago in school they had told me its an important step ,,,,i thought on VW maybe just maybe there are things very different ,,,?

[@JWClassicVW]

Very important with new rings no matter what... the cross hatching is what allows the rings to properly seat and seal to the cylinder walls. My pistons and cylinders are used and have already been broken in previously. I've been thinking about replacing the rings and if I do then yes I'll need to prep the cylinders by cross hatching them.

[@MrGarcon98]

@@JWClassicVW got you

[@jimmywilkinson9190]

On my 1600 I had a cam shear the rivets. it sounded like knocking a rod . I tore it apart and was scratching my head when i found the rivets wore out. so I took a ball and peen hammer and broke it in half so no one would reuse it ?

[@JWClassicVW]

Thats crazy... totally believe it, I've seen those rivets loose.

[@AircooledMisfits]

So if you grab the crank pulley and it moves in and out some, your case is bad or can be fixed with a line bore/thrust cut?

[@AircooledMisfits]

...flywheel has to be on to check? Is there movement typically if the flywheel is off?

[@JWClassicVW]

This really depends on the wear... some cases can't be saved with a line bore. A quality machinist will know if the case is salvageable.

[@JWClassicVW]

@Frank R. yes flywheel needs to be installed with shims and torqued.

[@koizora8251]

hello sir can you install air condtion kit on vw bug i like to see that in future thank you ❤ peace and watching you from dubai 👍 شكرا

[@JWClassicVW]

An AC would be cool, but probably not with Goose. Maybe a future project.

[@koizora8251]

@@JWClassicVW thank you sir for replay yes in future would love to see it wish you all the best for you and your family peace ❤

[@MP-hx8fs]

I have an ac unit in my 69 bug. Works great. I have a video of it on my channel. Just starting it. Didn’t film it when put in but it took me a day to do it my self.

[@daveshipman2677]

Hi dude,i have a 1600 engine on my 71 early bay bus,can i upgrade the cylinders so i can get a bit more power to my engine,as i have just come back from my holiday,and the engine on my bus seized,so now going to do a complete tear down and upgrade the parts..?

[@JWClassicVW]

Oh boy!! Love doing rebuilds with some power mods... so what are you trying to do? There are some options without machining but to be honest the difference in power in hardly noticeable. What size are your pistons now 83, 85, 87?

[@daveshipman2677]

@@JWClassicVW Hi dude,i don't know the size of pistons yet as i haven't taken heads off ,but i'll let you know,i was thinking of adding some twin Webber carbs once my rebuild is completed,this should give me a better top end on acceleration,and i'm getting rid of old pulley system and replacing with a serpentine pulley setup,what else could i do without going over the top..?

[@JWClassicVW]

Well one thing I did and a bunch of others do is a lightened flywheel... this is a cool option for fast revs from light to light in a bit of a race application. But if cruising is your thing and possible longer trips the stock flywheel is still a better option.

[@chrisward2224]

Where to find out what year did the cc my Volkswagen motor is? 45. 211.101.1010 Can anyone tell me what the year of this Motor engine block is.

[@JWClassicVW]

The Samba website has a section in the Tech info that covers engine year info. As for the cc... as long as it's stock you'll be able to Google the year VW and get that info once you confirm the engine year. www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/chassisdating.php

[@naeemmughal3097]

I am overhauling a 57 hp type 2 engine (1584 c.c). Would the 40 Hp engine set up in the crankcase be similar and guide me on how to overhaul the insides? Would you have a separate Video on my model?

[@JWClassicVW]

This information is good for most VW engines... noticeable changes can be found internally with the early 36 hp engines they are a bit different but I know I've seen a few videos covering rebuilds on them but they weren't very detailed.

[@naeemmughal3097]

@@JWClassicVW Watched a lot of Videos but I must say yours are comprehensive and detailed enough to arm me to attempt my first overhaul of the T2 engine that I am restoring. Found this Bus grounded for well over 10 years at a farm and the heat exchangers had a colony of African ants prospering inside and had found their way into a piston via an open valve....exciting times, hopefully, will still feel the same once into the project though parts may be a problem in this neck of the woods - Kenya.

[@JWClassicVW]

Well good luck brother, I bet you'll get it done! Parts are getting to be a problem all over right now. Can't find anyone with the axles I need... lol

[@briansmythe3000]

Hey Bro I was Changing The Fuel pump on Bess I had the old fuel pump out Cleaning it up and what not Stupid me took of The Dissy Cap and one of the Little Clips That hold the dissy on fell down the Hole Itried too feel around for it , And I Could Hear it Fall Down Further Clink LOL Im Gonna Have too Pull The Motor Out Arn"t i And Split The Cases , Do you Reckon It Might be around the OIL Pump I might be lucky and Take that out and See If I can find it If Not Oh well

[@JWClassicVW]

Probably sitting on top of the cam... I'd pull the distributor and distributor drive first... you probably see it. Also maybe one of those mini inspection cameras would help you find it... those do come with magnet attachments. www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5THGPNM/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_KK4GDHXTXRQK5SBXMFG0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml2&tag=jwclassicvw-20

[@briansmythe3000]

Cheers bro I will try that with a camera , Yeah I should of taken my time I wasn't shore if it was in there or outside the motor some where, Stupid me stuck my finger in the hole too see if I could feel it , And I dislodged and it went down further But that's a good Idea I will try see if I can see it , I might be lucky it might of fallen down near the oil pump I can only try Thanks for the Info and link bro much appreciated

[@briansmythe3000]

Got it taped a small magnet on a bit of hose , it made it down the side of the gear's and was able too retrieve it thankfully, Thanks for the link for the camera I ordered one any ways, for next time lol

[@JWClassicVW]

Good job!! the tape trick does work too! Glad you got it out!

[@briansmythe3000]

@@JWClassicVW Thanks Bro Much appreciated , Yeah forshore the tape as well Ive certainly learnt my lesson ,Have the Right tools Slow down Think things through im stoked Beetles Rule So do the People ,Hope Goose is comming along Nicly ,TakeCare

[@daveshipman2677]

Hi jw,i have question,i just rebuilt my 1600 dp engine,but i find it very difficult to crank over by hand when i rotate flywheel,but when i remove the spark plugs i can crank it as normal by hand,and it will crank on a starter motor,but will not crank when i put plugs in,my theory is a valve isn't opening correctly,so my question is this,are the cam followers of different depths,as i accidently mixed them up,and when i adjusted the valve tappets,i noticed they are set back too far,but used correct feeler size to set them,would you know the answer to this at all,if not then no worries,it was just a theory of mine,and i will be stripping my engine down to try and find the cause....cheers dude..

[@JWClassicVW]

That's a tough one man... compression goes up a lot when the plugs are installed, but you should be able to still crank it over. As far as having the lifters mixed up what you may run into would be premature wearing of the cam.

[@daveshipman2677]

Thanks jw,i started stripping down the block last night,just down to the case now,so will split it open,and have a good look around to see what the possible issues are,my theory is down to the new rings,as this is were the starter motor has problems cranking the engine over with plugs installed,but as soon as i remove them,it cranks over,i've worked on engines before,but not flat 4's,so i'm a bit mistified as to the probable cause,anyways thanks again jw.👍

[@daveshipman2677]

Hi again jw,i have a question to ask,why is it important to line up the two dots on the cam shaft,as i can't find any info on this,and think this may be a theory why i think valves aren't opening in the correct sequence,or is that a dumb question jw..🤷

[@JWClassicVW]

That's so timing is correct with #1 cylinder hitting TDC at the correct valve opening.

[@daveshipman2677]

@@JWClassicVW Hi jw,that makes sense,which is why i think valves aren't opening in the correct sequence,i just found it odd that this isn't covered in my vw manual,so basically cylinder number 1 needs to be at tdc and dots aligned for valve's to open at the correct point,is this correct jw,sorry for dumb question,think i'll stick to normal engines in future as neve3r had issues with those lol..🤣

[@erikm2003]

I wonder how hard my engine is gonna be to rebuild if it’s even good anymore. It’s been sitting in a barn for 15 years and the motor won’t even turn over. It came with a box of new cylinders and pistons. Hopefully I can get it freed up and hopefully it will come apart.

[@JWClassicVW]

I would start with some good penitrating oil on everything including the spark plugs. If you can get them out easily then some Marvel's Mystery oil down the cylinders will help break things free. As long as nothing serious is jacked internally.

[@erikm2003]

@@JWClassicVW ok. If I can get everything to turn over free how bad would it be if I tried to get it running without taking everything apart. I didn’t put a bar or anything on it just tried turning the pulley at the end of the crank by hand so maybe it’s not set up that bad.

[@Kikinahm]

How do you match an engine kit to a case?

[@JWClassicVW]

That depends on what your doing as far as rebuild? And what kind of engine you have. Most kits are universal for single and dual port engines.

[@geraldfahey8411]

Hi i have just watched this video i want to bring to your attention you are using a o series case wich is a early 1960 1500 cc ( not suitable for 1641 cc i will explain why the six case studs have no seals fitted your oil pump is a 6 mm flat camshaft for 1641 you must use a dish camshaft your studs are to small 6 mm you need 8 mm you must get a 1641 camshaft and use a high pressure pump now you need a case that has two release valves to cope with the extra oil pressure please take note your barrell and pistons do not give you 1641cc you must use a high lift camshaft your oil cooler is wrong you do not see it in this vidio but i bet its a thin black one i can tell that buy looking at the case seals to small and look at your cylinder heads in the vidio valve spring upside down iam sorry if i have upset you i will look out for the next vidio on you rebuilding it.

[@JWClassicVW]

Some good info... 👍

[@cobusvanniekerk83]

Its much cheaper for us in South Africa to install a subaru motor as to rebuild a vw engine . A subaru motor R7000.00 vw motor R70.000 in our currency

[@JWClassicVW]

Nothing wrong with a Subo engine!! Great power and price!

[@DanTheManIOM]

I'm going to watch this, CT / VW Darrin and YOU to finally finish my 40 HP. You know when I bought the Pistons and cylinders ? I think Bill Clinton was President !! D'OHH it was....

[@JWClassicVW]

That's awesome!! Get your baby back on the road!! Thats what it's all about!

[@DanTheManIOM]

@@JWClassicVW it's been PAINTED for 21 years ! The plan is to drive it to the Herbie anniversary next April in Florida..why not ?

[@JWClassicVW]

That would be awesome!!! Florida is having all the fun... we have a VW show this weekend I can't wait to go!

[@christianreyes3438]

Bro slow down I hear you but I need you to do is step by step and you need to write it down for us

[@JWClassicVW]

And I thought I was being detailed... lol

[@bigpat728]

What meet was that?

[@JWClassicVW]

There is a little VW waffle roll out some Saturdays, the next one is Dec 5... its going to be for Toys for Tots!

[@bigpat728]

@@JWClassicVW is there a fb or ig page? I think there is a show in Conroe that day too

[@JWClassicVW]

@@bigpat728 Yes Dubs on Display starts at 10... I went last year pretty sure ill go again this year. Maybe stop be the Seabrook Waffle Company first.

[@bigpat728]

@@JWClassicVW if I see you, I’ll come up and introduce myself.

[@JWClassicVW]

@@bigpat728 Sounds great!!

[@Japanlife122]

How can i contact you

[@JWClassicVW]

You just did... whats up man?

[@raylapierre3411]

I notice you painted your engine case. They say that’s a no no.

[@JWClassicVW]

Yup I did... I hear "they" say all kinds of stuff... I honestly have never had issues from painting the case. Over heating issues are more likely caused by a poorly running and tuned engine. Or missing tin, improperly fitting tin, oil pressure, bad fan belt, over tightened fan belt. Lol just my experience of course.

[@mattadams7772]

Cool video but Jesus this guy talks so fast

[@JWClassicVW]

LOL... Yes dis guy does talk a lil fast!! Thanks for checking me out brother!