K1600 Tire Change

After several requests, here is a tire change on my own bike. The process is very strait forward. In a few ways, this bike is MUCH easier to do than a typical Sport -Tourer (centre stand, single sided swingarm, and "easy access" front fender bolts)
** a few folks, including my dealer, pointed out that you should not loosen the left spacer on the fork, to put the bike into 1st gear, and that there is not a need to remove the exhaust -- the first comment is true, the second was a brain lapse on my part, and the third i simply disagree with -- removing the exhaust makes this a much easier process.

[@Riverfurm]

A couple of things. An inverter 13/16 spark plug socket has the correct size hex on it for the front axle shaft. Do not loosen left side pinch bolt or move bushing. From the manual. The left axle clamping screw locates the threaded bush in the front suspension. If the threaded bush is not correctly aligned the gap between the ABS sensor ring and the ABS sensor will not be correct and this can cause the ABS to malfunction or allow the ABS sensor to be damaged. In order to ensure that the threaded bush remains correctly aligned, do not slacken or remove the left axle camping screw. The rear fender has four screw you can take out to remove the fender to gain access to the rear wheel, which is also in the owners manual. With the rear wheel off it's a good time to change the final drive fluid. It only holds 180cc of oil. Thanks for taking time to make and post the video.

[@alexrybin3798]

"With the rear wheel off it's a good time to change the final drive fluid. It only holds 180cc of oil" Any suggestions with oil type?

[@jamesspencer406]

You're pretty slick ,I just bought k1600b first bmw I've owned.So I appreciate your expertise I see online.Bottom line ,it's nice to see fellow motorcyclist hands on which I will be doing.Keep up good work and be safe

[@joepasquarello1273]

Just a couple comments: As mentioned, there is no need to remove the rear silencer. The wheel slips out and back in easily. Also as mentioned, its not recommended to remove the left pinch bolt to remove the axle. Here is a tip: after I prop the bike up on the center stand, I place a few bags of water softener salt (or 200lb equivalent) on the rear rack. This tilts the bike back far enough to rest on the rear tire and lift the front wheel of the ground enough to roll it out. I place a milk crate under the forks and take off a bag at a time until the forks rest securely on the milk crate. I have been using this method for years on all my BMW's with a center stand with no problems. I have a video posted which describes it in more detail. Like others have said, I too enjoy your videos.

[@mattcero1]

Torque values would have greatly enhanced this already great video. Thank you.

[@TouringAmericausa]

Thanks for the great pair of videos. Will really save us time and money down the road.

[@jsaae]

What are the torque settings for the bolts?

[@kbikerider8474]

I agree with your dealer. The rear fender has 4 screws up top in the corners. Remove those and the rear fender pops off. The rear tire rolls right out the back door. Torque on the wheel lugs is 60nm / 44 ft lbs.

[@leadonnemyers9074]

Hello, great video Thanks was wondering if you could tell me all the torque values to both tires. Just bought my K1600 and don't have a manual. Appreciate the help!

[@jsaae]

Can I get the torque setting for the rear wheel? Thanks

[@timhunter1678]

Unfortunately you never shared what the torque settings are on the multiple bolts or shared where you bought that tool to remove the front axel.

[@neetones]

This is super helpful. Thank you!

[@mickfeck]

The fender under the number plate slides up (may be a little stiff with mud and crust) which enables the wheel to be rolled straight out rearwards without taking off the exhaust or using a block

[@thekids62]

Hi just wondering with your knowledge of BMW bikes you might be able to give me an idea what could problem with my bike. I've got a K1300GT 2010. I have a problem selecting neutral, when in 1st as I click up it missing neutral straight into 2nd if I turn the bike off then I can select neutral no problem, sometimes with the engine running not very often I can get neutral. Thank you.

[@JJ-nq4sy]

Thank's for sharing this video. One little thing though, where / how do you place the jack? There is no sump in engine ( unlike boxer ) which would be the natural place to lift the front end.

[@kiki231000]

i used a jack and a block of wood -- the amount of force needed to hold it up is minimal, as the bike is fairly evenly balanced

[@JJ-nq4sy]

@@kiki231000 OK, thank's. Hopefully there is some metal there behind plastics. With bags removed and gasoline thank fairly full there is some weight on front wheel.... One trick is to place old hockey stick etc between luggage rack and roof.

[@HORNET6]

could I suggest breaking the rear wheel nuts with the bike on the side stand rather than working against the compression, its a bit more sympathetic than moving the pistons in the bores. And if you really must use a hammer on the front axle then a rubber mallet is way more kind. Good to see someone not afraid of working on a big beemer, well done fella.

[@johndowling6131]

How about listing the specialty tools, and torque specs used…would be handy if you were more thorough with explanation…thanks

[@jesusacovarrubias1390]

Great info vid. It would have been even better had you given the torque specs.

[@tiriaudaniel4995]

Hello it’s not necessary to pull the exhaust , have a good ride

[@andor8635]

Did a nice job explaining everything.

[@rolandomartinez2535]

What are the torque settings?

[@4637bigred]

Great job explaining the process. Can you tell me what the size of the socket is to unscrew the front axle and did you buy it from BMW ? Thanks in advance.

[@kiki231000]

4637bigred It may be available from BMW, but I bought mine several years ago from ebay. It is a simple adapter with different sizes (2 on each side) , and very handy. Motion Pro sells them as well -- they are a "hex axle tool" (about $20) and you can use them on all makes, since most modern bikes require them. If you are in a pinch, you can make your own tool using a large bolt and 2 nuts the appropriate size to fit in the axle. Jam the 2 nuts to lock them together on the end of the bolt, then insert the bolt head into the hex of the axle , and use an open end wrench on the inner nut to loosen, and the outer nut to tighten the axle.

[@R1200RTGuy]

Hi Kiki, I've been checking out your vids for a couple years now; very well done.....can you tell me which drill/electronic screw driver you use? I am talking about the small green one you used for the front fender. Bob's BMW uses a similar kind on their vids for the Tupperware, but I cant make out who manufactures it. Thx

[@kiki231000]

+Guy “R1200RTGuy” RIZOORT - That particular driver is made by Snap-On. Mine is an older version of CTS725DB. The newer version has a much more advanced battery and a few other improvements. The one i have, however, has worked flawlessly for me since i bought it 4 years ago. If you are looking to acquire one, i would also recommend the bit set to go with it. I use a Blue Point "long shank" set that work brilliantly.

[@R1200RTGuy]

Perfect...thanks

[@Enonymouse_]

I just bought my k16 and the rear sensor stopped showing pressure 5 minutes away from home.

[@fromtututis]

Where do you hold the lift under the motorcycle? Is stable? I think it has to be way back, right?

[@kiki231000]

loosen as much as you can to reduce the forces on the bike while suspended, then lift under the engine. The center stand is very well placed on BMW's , so the stand takes most of the weight, not the front wheel. for example, you can lift the front wheel off the ground with 2 fingers when its on the center stand. once the wheel comes off , that weight reduction causes even less stress on the jack under the engine. the farther forward the jack, the less stress is causes on whatever it is supporting-- forward is better, but try to support the engine as opposed to the exhaust pipes, as they can dent

[@fromtututis]

@@kiki231000 thanks. Good job

[@MrPitchou29]

Hello, can you tell me the brand and reference of the balancer and cones of adaptation for the rear wheel K1600? Thank you.

[@kiki231000]

Philippe Abalain I use a monster tire changer from NoMar. www.nomartirechanger.com/category_s/38.htm You will need the smooth bar with the small/medium set of cones for the front wheel and the threaded rod with the large set of cones for the rear.

[@MrPitchou29]

Thank you Chris.

[@schooder]

have you ever experienced a pull/fade to the left while riding . There are some out there that do

[@kiki231000]

That may be a combination of tire wear and road crowning. I have not experienced it.

[@schooder]

Thanks what tires do you use, thanks

[@MPjustaman]

I think we might have the same barber.

[@artsbest1]

What type of mileage did you get before replacing them? And what brand of tires are you now using? Thanks.

[@kiki231000]

+Louie Lamoore - I got about 13000 km out of the Bridgestone tires that were on it. Since i was given the replacement set at no charge ( a gift from a shop) i used the exact same tires again -- Bridgestone.

[@artsbest1]

Thank you.

[@brentwahl6109]

Nice video thank you

[@mdro221]

I was going back and forth between buying k16 and not but seeing you're vids and how easy it is to work on these not as cheap as kawasaki but expensive enough to break the bank

[@Otterbruce]

Those Metzler's or PR4's you put on?

[@kiki231000]

Bruce O. Neither-- I was given a set of Bridgestones in exchange for some mechanical work I did on an older bike. However, the PR4 would be my choice.

[@Otterbruce]

It's now my choice as well.

[@ceefife5]

No need to remove the muffler

[@kiki231000]

+ceefife5 you are correct -- see 0:28 to 0:37