Kawasaki KLR 650 Engine Rebuild Part 1 Cylinder Head Removal

A video about rebuilding a Kawasaki KLR 650 engine. Full tear down and complete rebuild. Engine from a 1989 Kawasaki KLR 650 Tengai

[@voodochi]

I successfully rebuilt a 98 KLR650 using these videos. Thank you for making them.

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Many thanks - glad they were of assistance!

[@Sss5799]

Removing that camshaft caps same as on inline six engine is so good to watch :D

[@paulbull3765]

Absolutely brilliant mate. I have watched the 9 videos many times from start to finish....... I have one issue, today I tore my engine apart in line with videos 1 - 9 and now I need you to finish the video series so I can finish my build. 😂😂 Very much looking forward to future videos, more helpful than the manual, that is for sure.

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Hi Paul - Great to know it was of help - Snowed under with work at the moment, (wasn't expecting to be ) but I really need to get the build up underway. May be a while tho... Next video will be measuring the crankshaft limits..

[@mrnoone7377]

Mine's a 1998. In my opinion the best looking Kawasaki KLR 650 (C)

[@xxxstonie]

Very nice video. A tip: Take a piece from a carboard box. Make small holes and stick the different parts (with screws) into the holes that fits the parts in the right order. Make notes on the carboard. AND DO NOT DROP THE CAM CHAIN..... Use a piece of string or wire and secure it well..... As mentioned below: We don't see the removal of the Cam Chain Guide (front).

[@nipsy_lafett]

Thanks for this

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Many thanks - Engine casing comes back next week from the repairers so hopefully I can get on with the rebuild!

[@hidad5601]

The better way to check for top dead center are the arrows on the timing chain gears. The arrow should be pointing towards the front of the bike.

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Thats definitely another way of doing this - regards

[@Xr3737]

My '99 smokes like hell everytime I start it. Thinking I have to change the piston ring. Contemplating boring out to install 685 kit. The bike was down for a large chunk of the summer doing the doohickey so I gotta get cracking with a decision soon while its garaged for the winter.

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Doesn't necessarily mean piston rings have had it - could be worn valve seals that are cold on start up therefore leaving a small gap for the oil (that is fed from the sump to the cylinder head via a external and clearly visible oil pipe on the 650 engine ) to get into the combustion chamber - As the valve stems heat up this gap closes somewhat and less oil is burnt - hence more smoke at start up. Good luck with it!!

[@Xr3737]

@@themotorcycleshed380 It does smoke only at starting so valve seals may be the ticket. Now I look into that for diagnostics. I'm new to motorbikes and learning as I go. Thanks for the insight. Hoping that job isn't too involved.

[@tb_videomaker8738]

hello everyone! i've recently rebuilt my klr 650 engine using the clymer manual (I suggest everyone should have it, really useful) and still your video is as detailed as a written page, congrats! Unluckily I used a cheap gasket for the head and now after only 500kms I need to change it (with an original Kawasaki new spare). I was wandering if I need to get the engine out of the frame or not.. are the bolts in line with the frame or is it possible? thanks for any advice! keep up with the good videos! cheers

[@michaelzaldumbide2266]

Una pregunta esa cadenilla no lleva deslizador arriba con la. Gen 2

[@specialized29er86]

Do you know roughly how many klms the engine has done.

[@tamasadam827]

Hi, I'm glad for this video a lot, can you advise me about KLR 's ? i have a tengai that smoke a bit (blue smoke) a but starts and runs well, so what yo think causing it? is the piston worned out either valve stem seal ?

[@themotorcycleshed380]

It is a sign that oil is being burned in the combustion chamber, like you say its either valve stem seals or worn piston rings. If you are going to take the head off you might as well take the barrel off too and have a look. You do not have to take the engine out of the frame to get the head and barrel off. Get the CLYMER manual for the KLR. Glad you like the Videos! Good luck

[@dad3562]

Anti clockwise? I’m assuming you mean counter clockwise? Maybe your way is saying it is regional, very interesting.

[@mattimattwa9064]

Hi there, I'm looking to completly rebuild my kawasaki klr 250 engine... Would the 250 be the same as the 650? I hope so as I can use your well put together video 🤞

[@beastman.330]

Do you put locktight on engine cylinder head bolts when reassemble the head . Great work brother .

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Thanks for the comment - the short answer to locktite on the cylinder head bolts is no. The reason is that the bolts need to be torqued up ( in cross order and in stages ) and then the engine run. Once the engine has properly warmed up and then completely cooled down, the bolts need to re tourqed, due to the expansion and contraction of the metals and the compression of the head gasket in this first run period - If Locktite is used and then set between the first heating and cooling cycle, it may not be possible to finally tighten the head bolts properly. Its better to make sure the threads are clean and the bolts can tighten in the threads of the block properly. For instance the Kawasaki manual actually says use a thin layer of Molybdenum grease on the threads and shanks of the bolts to make sure they seat and fully engage with the threads. I'm sure there may well be differing opinions out there about this, but this is my take on it!

[@leonelsanzgiraldo5839]

Hola , puedes hacer uno de la Kawasaki 650 C año 1995 ?, gracias , saludos desde España 👍

[@jasin350z]

A big job ahead. So you're fitting the 685kit? It will be interesting to see what you think of it once all done.

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Unfortunately I've discovered you can't get that kit in the UK, so its probably the Wossner kit which you can get, but it stays the same at '650'. Ill get the case split vid up and then one looking at the transmission probably this week as it looks like its gonna come down stair rods here in the UK for at least 10 days - then theres a break while I get the case looked at and spares ordered some of which are Ex Japan stock.. Glad ur liking the vid - many thanks

[@shanekenneally389]

This is a great set of videos thank you for sharing, i am a owner of a KLR650 1987 and thinking of doing this work, its still running well at 85,000 km. Is there more videos to come? i have watched 1to 9

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Many thanks for the comment - Yes there is the build set coming up, starting with a look at the crank, but I would say I can't start the build until late Nov.. It will happen....

[@xxxstonie]

ME TOO 😎 1987 A1. Just under 100.000 KM. Some ratteling from the chain now. Going to replace chain and Chainguides this winter.

[@robkcra]

Looking forward to this series......much thanks. What mileage is on the engine?

[@themotorcycleshed380]

Hi Rob - About 25000 miles - As its over 30 years old I think I doubt that - As soon as I get the casing back from the repairers Ill get back to the videos! many thanks.

[@spitthatmoraleout8603]

Think I'm about to give this a go myself, think my piston rings are fried, thing is smoking more than my gran. I'm dreading it.

[@themotorcycleshed380]

It might be worn valve guides... In which case the smoking would probably stop once the engine is warmed up as the valve stems and guides expand slightly when hot...

[@cooleyballs1]

What's the part in your hands at 8 mins..?

[@xxxstonie]

The Tensioner. (It starts at 00:06:00) It pushes in on the back Chain Guide to keep the Cam Chain tensioned. It's springloaded and "automaticly" keeps tension on the Cam Chain. Another longer Chain Guide in the front. Unforunately we do NOT see the removeal of the front Chain Guide in this video. (correction: The Chain Guide is in Video 2 !!!) This is the "older" version of the Chain Tensioner. On newer models it's a "snail-screw", that can be tightend by turning the screw ANTI CLOCKWICE (remove the outer bolt to get access) My -87 A1(100.000 KM) has a lot of rattle from the top (not gearbox) and I suspect that the Chain Guides are worn out. The plastic is worn through and the chain could be running against the metal !!! AND the chain is worn out too (stretched) and loose... and may be bashing against the top Chain Guide. Info: I buy my parts from MSP (Motorcycle Spare Parts) Headquarters located in The Netherlands. Livinig in Denmark I get parts from Germany. Their sparepart pages are very nice with drawings of every spare part with numbers... at fair prices. I did have a long delivery time ONCE, due to the fact that one part had to be shipped from the other side of the globe ;) BUT I GOT MY PART(s) for my old bike.....

[@cooleyballs1]

@@xxxstonie cheers dude... My top was noisy until the cog at the end of the cam which turns the camchain fell off when it came loose... Make sure its tight dude. Not the top is rattle free.. Thanks for the info.

[@xxxstonie]

@@cooleyballs1 Yeah...... I'll start up taking the valvecover off for inspection.... I think I got a little bit ahead i my thoughts about what could be the reason. However, in another Video i saw a badly worn out Chain Guide causing chainslack. Also it's backfiring and I just found another tip regarding valve clearence could be the reason. So time to open up the old girl for inspection. Just because she's been running many years without any problems, doesn't mean there isn't problems now !!! As mentioned further up, I was missing the removal of the Chain Guide. It's in Video nr.2.

[@mariankornaj9765]

Is it same on kawasaki klr 600?

[@leonelsanzgiraldo5839]

Es igual a la klx 650C

[@supson]

I have

[@davidhaley2790]

Something about turning the engine the wrong way while finding tdc wouldn't allow me to take any of the rest of the video seriously. Sorry.