KEEP YOUR VW BEETLE MOTOR RUNNING COOL!!!?? TIPS AND ADVICE IF RUNNING HOT!

#vwbeetle #aircooled #vwrunninghot #sladesbeetle #sladesvwbeetle
Today we discuss how to keep your VW Beetle Air Cooled from running hot! And the things to check to keep it cool!
Check out my...Tshirts, And Apparel! Thank you!
www.bonfire.com/store/sladesb...
My Website:
sladesvwbeetle.com
Friends Website:
www.superbeetles.com
www.allaircooled.com/
5150mxVW
/ @5150mxvw
VWJawBreaker
/ @vwjawbreaker
Heather Anns Haven
/ @heathershaven
Volkswagenplanet
/ @volkswagenplanet
BeetleOval 1955
/ @vwbeetleoval1955
Off Axis
/ offaxisbuilds

[@RJLM330]

Thanks!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you sir!!

[@surlycrosscheck1]

I don’t do videos too often but when I do I try and do exactly what you did here. Educate/help the VW community without being condescending and speaking respectfully. This to me was a perfect VW video. I appreciate your time. I haven’t had time yet but I’ve subscribed for now. I’m gonna check out your other vids. 👍 Thanks again for helping out the community!

[@jimmd53]

Great primer on cooling a VW bug engine. For old timers it is a great review and for newcomers it is instructional. Keep up these videos Slade, they are very good. 👍

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you James, and thank you for being part of the community here. I’m always hopeful, that these videos help others.

[@jamespfarrell9954]

Slade - you are awesome with straight forward explanation of the air cooled engine and all things beetle!!! thanks for all of the knowledge for us old guys getting back to my beetle roots.

[@lowlikeme]

Thank you....very cool that there is someone out there that is passing down information on these old cars I grew up with......yes please do a video on the shims and the belt tension

[@friendlypiranha774]

That was VERY informative, thanks.

[@briankelly5503]

This video helped me a ton! Very informative and straight and to the point.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

I am glad it was helpful Brian, thank you so much for being here.

[@fuzzfuzz8606]

I am new to the air cooled motors. I always wanted a beetle now I have one, really appreciate the knowledge, thx very helpful

[@valdiviajr1]

I always learn something new with your videos and today I learned a lot of things thank you very much I really appreciate it keep them coming

[@SladesVWBeetle]

I am truly glad to hear of that, I always hope my videos will help other folks. That’s what it’s all about us helping each other. Have a great evening.

[@FBPrepping]

Dude! I´m thinking on getting a VW for making it to my isolated mountain cabin. Knowing there is a YT channel on those things really helps. You know a lot about those engines. Thanks!

[@switchbladerolla]

Hands down this is the most helpful and well explained video I have ever found on youtube when it comes to air cooled vw engines. Thank you much brotha !!!!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks brother, and thank you for being part of the community I truly appreciate it.

[@stephensapp7233]

Excellent explanations. Keep the classes coming. Great knowledge for when I finally find a bug to restore.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you Stephen I really appreciate that.

[@eugenebaroni1298]

Great video lots of cool tips. Always enjoy you sharing your knowledge on air cooled Volkswagens with the community. Have a great weekend 😊....

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you Eugene! And thanks for always being part of the community every week. I’m hoping to do a live chat soon coming up.

[@ernestescamilla1557]

Thanks 😊 very informative.

[@FunFun-tv7gq]

Awesome tips as usual. Keep the good job up. Cheers from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks very much my friend, and thanks for always being here much more to come.

[@asadnaqvi8654]

Thank you so much for the insight. I love bugs, beetles but the idea of Air Cooled engine in weather averaging 35° C keeps me from jumping into it blindly. However, your tips are highly assuring and I hope it will help me keep track of everything.

[@leonardramsey3458]

Info, Info, Info😎👏👏👏 Keep it coming 💪🏼⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐Great video 👍🏻

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you Leonard! I hope you have a wonderful day.

[@acdcfan5672]

Thank you for another great video. On my Baja, currently has a 1500, someone used pvc caps to block off the heater. Had a few moments to check out here for Father’s Day. Hope you and other dads out there had a great day also. Looking forward to more videos coming.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks very much, I hope you had a great Father’s Day! Yeah long as there is caps in place you’re OK. You just don’t want the air escaping or not cooling the cylinder heads. Much more to come thank you so much.

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Great tips on the cooling system. I guess its all about the air passages. Well done

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks appreciate that! Just like to pass along some stuff and hopes to help others.

[@directsound]

Very nice, I just got a bug with similar issues

[@superbear617]

I enjoyed this video - very instructive. I owned a Beetle for several years, and I never knew (until now) it had a seal around the motor bay! Keep up the good work!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks so much my friend! I’m glad that you’re enjoying the videos. Every little bit helps to keep these cars nice and cool.

[@milmil6594]

Thats what i love about old VW's..The baby caps to block off those heater openings..These cars are so versatile with your imagination..you can use household items and almost anything laying around to fix them..its crazy some of the things i have seen people do..i had a cousin once who's starter went out so he set it up with a rope and an old lawn mower wrap set -up like they had back in the day and would pull start it with that clothes line rope..i laughed when i seen him do that but it worked..Who knew ??

[@andrewhenrywhite6783]

Your assessment was right - there were some good tips in there for those of us who have a foot in the water, but aren't veterans. Much appreciated.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you Andrew, and thank you so much for being here.

[@azmike3572]

Keeping it cool is ultra-important in our Phoenix area, where the summer highs are 115°!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Absolutely Mike. With these air cold motors, the cooler you keep them in the longer they run

[@luvbgrass]

Good video Slade. I am still pretty new with the bugs so all videos help me. Thank you.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you! Much more to come! Thanks for being here!

[@dilunian]

Brilliant explanation, thank you

[@ex-engineer6657]

Thanks for the refresher. Been air cooling since the '50s, and have forgotten a couple of these details. At this point in life, I sometimes think my tools know more than me. MY Harley was blacked out; no chrome visible, stealth. 😎

[@carkingspot3973]

Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! 👍

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you so much for being here and taking the time to comment.

[@dubrunner6277]

Fantastic video!! My van has always run hot!! Thanks to you now I know why!! Rich in the UK

[@soggz4246]

All this bloody rain should keep it cooler…🤣😉👍🏾🇬🇧

[@vintagespeedvw7864]

I can personally say that those standoffs definitely work. Love that 68!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks so much I truly appreciate that. Yes they really do work, I’ve always run them.

[@timkis64]

brings back memories of me fixing up my 70 beetle in 1980. a fun little car.i got about 28- 30 mpg. bought it for 500, drove it on & off for 7 years & sold it for 200.simple, easy, tough little machines for their size.

[@heronimousbrapson863]

I had a 1973 super beetle and the manifold heaters worked fine on the west coast of British Columbia where winters are mild. When I moved to Alberta, however, where sub zero temperatures are common, they didn't work well at all. That's why most models sold in Canada were equipped with auxiliary gas heaters.

[@douglasbarnhart3324]

This was a great video thanks for your time.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you also Douglas! And thanks for always being here.

[@iszack1000]

Thank you awesome video and very helpful!

[@antoniorivera6187]

Excellent tips on the VW bug I’m learning a lot about the bug thank you 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻take care

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you Antonio, and thank you so much for being here every week. Much more to come, it’s a true pleasure helping others.

[@teddibiase8442]

Thanks Slade! It has been a while for me and the refresh was helpful. And I am with you on the chrome….I had issues…🤨

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks Ted! And thanks for being here!

[@Mars36912]

Thank you for your nice video they are instructive for new people to Air-cooled engine like me.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

I thank you very much for taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it.

[@80fordmustang6]

Thank you for the video and tips getting my first air cooled super beetle soon as a project nice to learn the ins and outs of them I’m used to conventional classics with radiators so this is all new to me outside messing with antique garden tractors

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Excellent!!! I’m glad the videos are being helpful!! Thank you for being here!

[@michaelperone5094]

Thanks for another instructive and engaging video. And congrats on the new cap; the old one was well past its prime.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you Michael, and thank you for being here. Yeah there was a lot of miles on the old hat...It was time for a change. Although I still have the old one on hand just in case 😁😂

[@mr.motormaster9881]

ill grind de grooves on my chrome pulleys, Thank you for the tips 👌👍🙏

[@VolkswagenTube]

Real informative video. Some people don't realize how important cool air is for these engines. After all, it is called (Air) (Cooled)😅

[@hycoproductions]

Great video. The horrors I have seen at VW shows. Two things I would add. 1. do not disconnect the the air flowing to the heater boxes if you are keeping them on the engine. The heater boxes are designed to flow air out by the flywheel end when the heater boxes are in the off position, only block off the air vents rom the fan shroud if running J-tubes. 2. I would add the thermostat onto cooling issues. If the engine is still running the internal flaps which are controlled by the thermostat (under the right rear cylinders), it is recommended to check the stat to make sure it is expanding and contracting with the engine temperature. Remove it a toss it into a some hot water to see if it expands. It is recommended to run the thermostat and flaps, even on a high-performance engine, these flaps help the engine to warm up to operating temperature quickly. If your running heater boxes, it helps with heating the cabin quickly. My brother had a 73 S. Beetle & had problem with getting heat into the cabin. Everything checked out fine, but when I checked the thermostat, found it to work but it was not adjusted correctly. Volkswagen spent at lot of engineering money, so don't change too much on the air flow.

[@Kevrock900]

Good point about the flaps, I replaced my missing thermostat and now it heats up faster.

[@grahames9228]

Very informative and helpful.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks very much, and thank you so much for taking the time to comment.

[@VWBEETLEOVAL1955]

Good work again slade, It's indeed very important that all the seals and covers are on and around the engine to cool it properly.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks my friend, it truly is important to put all the pieces back in place. These German engineers were smart guys that’s for sure.

[@VWBEETLEOVAL1955]

@@SladesVWBeetle yep they did a great job on putting this engine together and. Old engineering to the finest.

[@lawrenceirvine8759]

Hey man I just wanna say thanks for all the effort you put into doing these videos. I mean generally, not this one specifically. I have no clue how to to go about making, editing or posting a video..so thanks. You know , once you've learned this stuff, like been through a rebuild this stuff seems kind of old hat. When I first got my beetle I had no idea how any of this stuff worked. It ain't like a Chevrolet! So out there somewhere is a nubby saying" Oh man I'm glad I found this!."

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks very much Lawrence, and thanks for taking the time to leave such a nice comment. These are a different style of car that’s for sure. But they’re very easy to work on once you get the hang of what to do. Much more to come.

[@terrancemoore2035]

Another quality video! Thank you Slade.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks my friend! And thanks for always being here weekly. Hope to see you soon.

[@terrancemoore2035]

@@SladesVWBeetle Happy Father's Day my brother.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

@@terrancemoore2035 thanks brother, and a happy Father’s Day to you!

[@HeathersHaven]

Excellent tips and advice, you make everything so easy to understand 👍

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you so much sweetheart! And thanks for always being there for me!!!

[@keithmcinturff1203]

I'm just amazed at the "instructionality" of your videos!! Just hauled a 74 SB into town that a friend purchased as a project for his daughter. It's gonna need a LOT of work, and I've told him about your videos. This is NOT even my vehicle, although he might ask for help....and I have watched over 10-15 hours of videos, mainly yours in the last day and a half, LOL. You do a FANTASTIC job of explaining AND showing almost everything one needs to know in regards to revamping a neglected Beetle. Although I seldom have the time to work on my 3rd Gen 4runner, your explanations and videos make me wanna go grab a Bug, LOL. Sure would love it if you had a twin brother that did the same quality videos on the old 02 series BMW's. Thanks for your patience and explanation of processes. Take care, sir!!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you so much I truly appreciate the kind comments Keith. I am truly sorry I did not see this, I was not notified of it. I just happened to be scrolling through and caught it. I hope that you have a wonderful day and thank you for being here and spreading the word.

[@belindaresor.78]

Thank you for your detailed video 👍

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you very much for leaving a comment! I appreciate you being here.

[@maketsu3371]

Great video ☺️👍

[@donaldtate3372]

Audience, Great and Informative video👊🏼🤜🏼🤛🏼🙌🏼.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you very much sir! I truly appreciate the kind comment.

[@jcnavas86]

Great tips... Thank you

[@SladesVWBeetle]

And thank you for being here!!

[@michaelperham694]

My VW trike that I've had for 53 years looks like your Sportster except mine is the hole under chassis transmission cases you name it and it is polished, yes that's polished. And I drive it

[@zimms-world]

Great video…a lot of good information.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks my friend! I try to help out where I can.

[@bunning63]

Never could work out people saying the heaters didn't work and they were crap, work great, if in good condition.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

I agree 100%! I have never one time had trouble with any of the heating system. Actually, I had to keep closing the vents I was getting too much heat.

[@brianchisnell1548]

The fan will suck air from wherever it can get it. Completely seal the cold side from the hot side. Leave your engine stock. They did not run hot when new.

[@FixinBugsNStuff]

Great tips!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks very much, and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.

[@amezcarl]

Sir, Im from Mexico, Im 34 years old, and I enjoyed the video with your explanations. Great to see. Learned a lot. Here you have your like and Im subscribing too. Great video man.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you so much, I truly appreciate you taking out the time to leave such a nice comment.

[@SDsailor7]

@@SladesVWBeetle I subbed to your channel because i like how detailed you give the explanations. Also i do not have a VW but i like them. I am learning things i did not know even thought i used to have a 69 beetle. Cheers

[@Rickcsvdubs]

Great information as always. I am running j tubes and wanted all the tins in place. I welded tabs to the j tubes and drilled holes in the tabs to secure the tins in place. Isn’t the prettiest setup but my 63 isn’t going to win a beauty contest. Lol

[@SladesVWBeetle]

You can absolutely do that, you don’t have to buy the aftermarket tins, especially the way you did it is perfect. Long as the air is flowing you’re good to go!

[@kimkeam2094]

I also run an 1835cc twin port engine in my aircraft. I have CHT,EGT AND OIL pressure/ temperature. It is amazing how easily you can cook your motor without these.

[@maguilla]

Wonderful video thank you! If you put a video A to Z how to do things I would buy it

[@jeromemitchell2061]

As always very informative. There’s always room for greater learning when it comes to air cooled. I have j-tubes and wanted to know what cooling tins I need to help with cooling. Thanks again for the valuable information. Please keep up the great work. Always looking forward for your videos.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks!! And Thanks for being here. The best thing to do with J tube’s, is use those industrial tins if you need a link let me know. I will put it on this chat. It is very important to keep everything cold properly.

[@joeymacatangay]

@@SladesVWBeetle hi! can i have a link on how to install cooling tins on j-tubes

[@SladesVWBeetle]

@@joeymacatangay I didn’t do the installation video on it yet, until I built my upcoming better.

[@vayabroder729]

@@joeymacatangay Actually Gene Berg has the industrial motor tins and less expensive than everywhere else.

[@robertstraton-ic2rf]

New to V dubs again , had a 66 , 71 , and 75 , now looking at a 72. Love watching and learning, just a thought, when showing certain points of interest, maybe use a laser pointer, like a cat toy one . Again your doing a great job . Thanks

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you Robert, I truly appreciate the kind comment and you being here. I hope you have a very wonderful day.

[@DEATHWISHVQ]

Thank you for being very informative. I had trouble understanding the dual heater hose thing, makes sense why you should cap them off to prevent from air escaping. One thing I’m still not 100% sure of, if you have the tube placed where does the air get guided to? You said the muffler? Which is blown through the heater box/piping thing and what the hot air I assume of the muffler it creates warm air for the winter correct.

[@haskyb9184]

Had a chrome pulley self district on me and fell apart on the freeway (or motorway as we call it here in England). Def stay away from them. Another great video, Slade. Keep up the good work, your efforts are appreciated 🇬🇧

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks very much Ben...thanks for taking the time to comment. Yes, some of those aftermarket parts might look pretty, but I don’t trust them.

[@vayabroder729]

Bad quality on many of the aftermarket parts. Chrome don’t get you home, as they say…

[@haskyb9184]

@@vayabroder729 so true

[@sathindrensanthirathelagan]

Hello from Malaysia - well explained ..

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you very much, and thank you so much for taking the time to leave a comment.

[@earlsammesios8696]

Tankz sir,,about this car ,ilove this car vw

[@outdoorfreedom9778]

Wow, an informative video that I agree with.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you!

[@thebadbug7026]

Great tips! I think VW did it right when they designed these engines and if you keep everything there that the factory intended you won’t have any problems!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Yes you’re exactly right, these German engineers knew exactly what they were doing. I’m sure they modified a couple of tiny things over the years, but not too many that I’m aware of.

[@whatsstefon]

Exactly. I run mine stock, even down to the NOS dizzy, points, condenser. Etc. I also ensure I time the engine because the timing can really affect running temps.

[@gingertimelord5]

Blew the fan belt in my 73 superbeetle and made it home with speaker wire I grabbed from the back speakers lol

[@masonjarhillbilly]

I has a 1971 Westphalia. I blocked off my dog house heat exchanger hoses. That way all the air generated by the fan is used for cooling the engine. #3 cylinder being the one that runs the hottest. I made a fiberglass housing and mounted the biggest cfm squirrelcage electric motor from the junkyard. I think it was off of a cadillac. Fan was overkill, but heater worked great including the defrost. Defrost fan flow blew with authority.

[@jjJackson01]

i found it helpful. biggest thing i took was the engine seal and how important it is. mine dont have one, gotta get to it then. also, the tin covers on the heat boxes. dont have that neither, lol. so thanks!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

I’m glad this was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to comment!

[@chrislee2477]

Thank you for sharing great videos. I would like to ask when mentioned on blocking the left and right holes on the top tin after removing the heater hoses, do we also need to block off the holes that goes into the metal exhaust system that we see below? thank you!

[@sxysanitatergaming]

Hi Slade, big fan of your videos! I am about to be the proud owner of a 72' VW Beetle. For Gasoline types, is it okay or better to run None- Ethanol gas? Your videos are so helpful! Thanks!

[@Rocketyt]

LOve love love your videos. Man, I'd follow you to the moon and baAndck. How can I watch them one after another. And my Fatboy I had for 15yrs was Chromed out!! I remember on one of the Hollister Rally, the motor was so hot, it was coughing and puking everwhere. I agee Chrome don't get you Home!!! Most excellent Videos!!!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

My Sporty I built a while back, I did a rigid and chromed it out. Sure miss that scoot! Thanks for the kind comments. You can scroll back to the beginning. And binge watch. My older videos, I was still learning to film LOL

[@KatheMinnema1]

Best videos great info.. 👍

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you Nick I truly appreciate that.

[@horshak1]

I had a prob with my ‘63 bug with a 1641cc engine running hot and boiling the gas in the carb. This caused hard starting when the engine was hot. I noticed later model bugs have more fins in the deck lid. So I took 2 tennis balls and put them in the holes in the deck lid. This holds the deck lid open like 1 inch. You don’t notice the small opening and solved my hot running problem.

[@user-fu9vj9ix3g]

The Universal problem with the heater boxes not providing good hot air into the cab is that the springs that tension the crappy little flapper doors are weak with age or crammed with rust and other debris. Also, the equally crappy little totally inadequate "hinges" simply get jammed with rust. Solution is to CLEAN the assembly with a wire brush and go to ACE hardware and get a $2 set of small refridgerator springs that are stronger than the totally crappy VW ones. Install and make sure your window crank works. Takes ten minutes - excluding going to get the springs. This is especially effective on buses - even my 67. Adding modern insulation wrap to the long chassis tube really helps as well. Fuer Warnung! If you have a Bug with the old cloth fuel line going through the fan shroud leading to the carb - replace it with a stainless steel woven mesh type, or risk the fan hole edges cutting it till it leaks gas onto that super hot engine. Lots of Type 1 engines have lost the rubber grommet that lines the hole, thus allowing the sharp edge of the hole to slowly slice thru the cloth hose. Heat is the mortal enemy of most air-cooled engines, and the Type 1 has a weakness that is the cause of many failures: The #3 cylinder doesn't get very good air circulation to it because of the stock oil cooler tower inside the fan shroud blocks full air flow to that cylinder. A lot of valves get sucked at the #3. If you live and drive in a hot area of the country, check the #3 valve clearance 500 into a regular 3000 mile adjustment interval. It's so easy there's no excuse. As to the limits of operation in cold temps: There doesn't seem to be one and VW Bugs were sent to Antarctica as base vehicles for Australia.

[@arborleaftree1769]

Thanks for your content it’s a big help. I seem to have an oil leak in my 66 twin port. She doesn’t really leak when sat idle but if I take the car for a longish drive up over 40mph and then park it I get quite a substantial pool of oil underneath. Another thing there’s oil leaking out in the engine area itself over the tinware and on the back of the engine deck lid. I’m thinking it’s coming from the breather but it seems a lot. Any ideas??? Especially when driving the bug at higher speeds then parked that’s when you notice the oil leak. It doesn’t sit and drip oil it seems to do it after a drive etc

[@IAm1InTheIAm]

Great video, really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience. Can you post a link for sourcing j-tube industrial tins? I wrapped my pipes with fiberglass like some motorcyclists do to keep the heat moving away and out, seems to help.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks I appreciate that. Here is the link for the industrial tins. vwparts.aircooled.net/Industrial-Cooling-Tins-Upright-Engines-PAIR-p/industrial-cooling-tins.htm

[@rustysuperbeetle3064]

I think this video is extremely informative and the cooling tins are crucial to a healthy motor. Would you mind at some point showing where a person would place the cylinder head gauge and oil gauge places on the motor? This information would be greatly appreciated and wonderful video...

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thanks my friend, actually I will be installing gauges on this one, and showing every little detail of course. I hope your weekend is going well.

[@Terrible1Joe]

Don't forget about the importance of the Hoover bit for proper cooling.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Absolutely! When I did my cooling tin installation... I had brought that up!! Very important, thank you for chiming in....I really appreciate it.

[@t21229513]

Nice vid My 2 cents would be to make sure the thermostat and associated hardware is working properly and very important is those little baffles that fit between the jugs to deflect hot air away. The only 2 engines I saw that were roasted was because of a defect in each of those areas. The seal in the engine compartment cannot be stressed enough!

[@nelsonbrum8496]

Yup! The thermostat and flaps are as equally important as the engine compartment seals! Pulling the thermostat and flaps will kill heads quick.

[@benkanobe7500]

Beautiful Sportster(s)? Like that anniversary paint scheme!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you I truly appreciate that.

[@briansooth9957]

Love your videos! I am building my first bug . Everything is done but motor & paint , it's 73 beetle . I am going to rebuild myself . Do you have anything that might help me out along the way .

[@TheWhitsboy]

Excellent video. Just a couple of other points to be aware of, make sure nothing is blocking the fan inlet. I know touched on this with the oil cooler but I found it common to find plastic bags, rags, etc had been drawn into the fan inlet, I have even seen the soundproofing come off the firewall & block the inlet. There used to a domed wire grid, you could buy, that fitted over the fan inlet to stop debris from blocking the inlet. Secondly, make sure the engine is kept clean, especially underneath. If there is a build of mud etc on the crankcase it will reduce the cooling effect of the air passing over the sump which will increase oil temp. So if you have any oil leaks that will attract dirt, you need to get them fixed & hose the sump off if you are travelling in wet muddy conditions. Thirdly, as you stated fuel. Unleaded fuel is definitely not liked by these machines, leaded fuel helps reduce combustion temp. I think you can still buy an additive, to add to unleaded fuel, as a lead replacement. I live in Australia & we always advised our customers to use leaded fuel, reduced a lot of burnt out valves(probably wasn’t good for business). There also used to be a fibreglass scoop that was fitted over the air inlet vent below the rear window & attached to the side gutters that worked really well, better than the raised bonnet lid because it had a greater area of air intake & it looked a whole lot better. Raised bonnet lids do look pretty awfully. Cheers

[@vayabroder729]

Actually unleaded fuel was a problem on the old heads due to the composition of the valve seats then. Nowadays the new heads that are being cast have the appropriate alloy for the valve seats to not be affected by unleaded fuel. But definitely these cars like to run a little on the rich side to keep them cool. Lean them out and your asking for trouble.

[@brucehatch6415]

Where would you suggest the mounting point for the cylinder head temp?

[@pawleymediaconsultantsllc5]

Can't wait to see you clean that grimy motor up !! :)

[@SladesVWBeetle]

I will be pulling it this week. It actually needs pressure washed. Lol

[@pawleymediaconsultantsllc5]

@@SladesVWBeetle Thank Goodness :)

[@mrpowers51]

A computer hard drive disc works in place of a shim and looks awesome

[@OFFAxisBuilds]

Great video. I had a square back that I bought that had a cracked Bissell that connects to the fan. When I first bought the car I thought I wanted to drive it home. Well a 1 hr drive took 4 hrs because the Bessel was cracked. Cooling tin and rubber around the engine is very important. What temp is too hot for the cylinders head temp.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Cylinder heads on air cooled engines can sustain temperatures in the range of 290 - 320 F....But usually over 300 can be nerve racking!! 😁 Just my opinion of course

[@javierlares4969]

Hi Slade. Will please make video on adjusting the belt and location on placing the shims.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

My motor is out of the car so I can do that with better video footage. But it will be a couple of weeks. I’m mounting all of my cooling and fan and alternator.

[@caseyj.1332]

I had a VW shop back in the 70's and found overheating in VWs to be rare if everything is in place. In one case a bug with a centri...fical distributor had a broken spring which allowed it to over advance. Improper timing will sure cause overheating. Once a lady had hers towed in with a blanket sucked into the fan... she said the blanket was a attempt to keep the engine warmer for an easier start on the cold morning. Not recommended.

[@peterrestaino7047]

have a 63 bug with a 40 hp. have full flow oil system with external screw on filter. the thermostat ring is not installed. Had an extender sump so I thought I was doing good for the last 27 years waisting oil but always noticed water paste build up under the oil filler cap and down the hole. To the touch engine case never got hot in winter , could hold my fingers on it and not get burned. I removed the sump and i think its a little better but when im done driving it i always keep the oil cap off overnight to let the moisture dry out.

[@vayabroder729]

That symptom is a result of not getting the engine operating temperature warmed up sufficiently. It can happen in a cold environment and when not using the factory thermostat and flap system.

[@mikemer79]

Thanks

[@daveydad]

Great video Slade! One question... If I run non-ethanol gas, is these a need to bump up to a 127.5 or 130 jet?

[@SladesVWBeetle]

You should not have to jump up a jet size, unless you were having problems. I will always “read “the spark plugs to see if it’s running to lean. And also depends on where you live. I can’t afford the non ethanol 😁

[@robertbumgardner5549]

A video on how to set the belt would be great!

[@SladesVWBeetle]

I will definitely squeeze that in an upcoming video Robert, excellent idea!

[@7CAJONEZ]

I have a 57 baja, stock and complete (all tins present) 1600 single port. So the engine never runs hot even at 75 mph. Problem is that the manifold below the carb ices up in cold weather. The air cleaner hot air is designed for a closed engine compartment so that doesn't work. So I wrapped it with silicone heat tape, insulated it, and hooked it to a digital setpoint controller and thermocouple. Works like a charm but overly complex.

[@larrymarron1170]

Nice.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Thank you!!

[@christiegroves]

Hi- FYI I run the gauges on my 1970 Yukon Gold, w/sunroof Beetle, its super slammed only the dog and I can drive in it, I have both the oil gauge and the cylinder head gauge and a tac, I watch the oil gauge like a hawk when the decklid had standoffs the oil temp ran 80 on the freeway, at 70mph- stock engine rebuilt 16. Now that I put a lock on the decklid and took of the standoffs do to esthetics for me, the oil temp is running 60. I have the crappy hoses blowing heat through the heater boxes which I run all the time to keep the engine cool, I just make sure I am using the fresh air vents and crack my back windows and take off my Jacket because those heater boxes are so hot. Thanks for the video's I will be watching them all. Christie From Seattle, and Omen the Beetle.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Welcome to the community here, thanks for being here! Gauges are always helpful. I like the stand offs, and will be running them on the 68 I’m currently doing. People claim the heater boxes don’t heat well enough, but they honestly do! If you would like to submit some photos to the members rides section, and a short bio on Omen,please check my website and send an email. Thanks you!! sladesvwbeetle.com/

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Also….when I see the word Seattle I always think of the movie War Games from the 1980s 😁

[@vayabroder729]

My intuition tells me the engine doesn’t run cooler by blowing air through the heater boxes; air volume blowing over cylinder heads and cylinders will be less when doing so.

[@johnwerner7194]

Slade do you need a thermostat? What is that lever in the back of the fan box? What do you do with that?

[@casboys2]

Good video! Just a couple of things: You will find some engines (rebuilt mostly) that have a degreed performance pulley on the crank. No problem, EXCEPT if it is smaller than the original in diameter. Then it causes the fan to turn slower and heat up the engine. Also, you can be surprised by how many rebuilt engines you will find (or at least I used to) that are missing the tins on the bottom of the jugs! These are critical, and without them the engine runs super hot. Finally, you should be aware that the stock VW distributor (and the 009 replacement) has a retard of a few degrees built in for cylinder number 3 (the one that runs hot). Thus, the distributor and the plug wires should always be put in correctly to get it setup to keep the number three cylinder protected. Another thing: the last VW bugs had the L Jetronic fuel injection. This system (as well as the D Jetronic on the earlier type 3s) ALWAYS eventually start to run lean. The symptoms are a bog on acceleration (as if the accelerator pump in a carb is not working) or VERY high gas mileage. I remember seeing type 3s with over 33 mpg, and the next thing is they blew up from the heat! It is actually easy to get these systems to run back to normal enrichment, but you have to know what you are doing. Almost always it is not a fault that needs any parts replacement; rather you have to break open the main metering device and just adjust the spring tension by hand (or in the D Jetronic adjust the vacuum metering unit by hand).