keil Kraft Spectre Vintage Model Co Build Pt1 RC Model Geeks

[@angelreading5098]

That sheeting issue was on the original model too Rob,the bi-symetrical ribs are always a pain to set up and that front end rib taper as the wing tapers too is another pain,I usually glue uprights either side of the rib to the leading edge for extra glue area,or slots in the leading edge,I think you have now done the hardest part,now something to think about,did you know that Solarfilm is not suitable for diesel powered models ? not sure if the Hobbyking film is the same but there used to be a warning slip with Solarfilm about this,something to do with the adhesive as the diesel fuel creeps under the edges,not sure what your thoughts are on this as I know you like using film,my old Spectra was covered in silk sealed with thinned glue pot rabbit glue prior to doping up,we used to also buy cheap nylon chiffon from the local market for our control liners,I wonder if they sell many of those Spectra replica kits today ? see I told you Bixler Phil was a clever geezer,the truth is he infiltrated Cranwell with his mathematical genius recognised by the Wing Commander,did you know they called them Cranwell Brats ? so perhaps he should be renamed 'Bixler Phil the Cranwell Brat' Thinking about the Spectra kit again you cannot laser cut angled ribs but they should have mentioned it in the instructions,if I had hand cut those ribs which we do,then I would have packed balsa blanks together first with wedges of two template ribs with screwed rods,then planed them through from the smallest rib to the largest rib,that way the necessary angles would be spot on,and just thinks we assembled these old kits with balsa cement,there was no wonder adhesive PVA around back then,I remember the old 'Aeromodeller' magazine annoucing that this months free control line plan for the Great Lakes biplane should be built with PVA glue ? I had to ask my local hardware store for it and when I got it eventually could not believe that this creamy white glue would stick anything ? but it did and very well too,but back then it was not waterproof that came later,we have certainly come a long way with adhesives over the years,and remember with balsa cement you had to pre glue the joints first to make them stick,the only thing I miss is the lovely smell and peeling the stuff off your fingertips afterwards ! every now and again my mate opens a tube while he is building just for the sake of nostalgia,carry on you are doing a good job,we are all waiting to watch you fall over as you get giddy flying a control liner again ! that should be fun,and remember do not fly near electrical wires we had a young lad die because of that near Oxford,the electricity jumps towards the wires electrocuting you,fly safe,stay safe.

[@Rcmodelgeeks]

Im sure ive covered a diesel powered planme before way back in the 80's. that was with solarfilm and i dont remember the covering having a probem.... But of course the model may not of lasted that long anyway ;o) I have some paint on glue that aids the covering sticking around engine bays, so will try that just in case. As all the parts have been cadded and laser cut. It would of been a good idea to put tabs on the ribs to aid assembly i think. That would save having to block up the trailing edge etc.

[@nosbig11]

think you have that wrong? The spars are not 'doubled' only the centre ribs have a packing piece under the spar? Other spars are a single strip?

[@jackijoy1260]

yeah the dump people shouldnt put stuff on here thats the so called experts not you

[@nosbig11]

@@jackijoy1260 ????

[@IansRCExploits]

Poor old Bixler Phil! He don't half take some flack and comes back for more, a loyal model geek Lol. Nice vintage kit.

[@Rcmodelgeeks]

Bless him.

[@jackijoy1260]

that is just the centre that you got spacer on the spar the rest are 1/8x3/16 im building one now and have build two before, you need to get the instrution leaflet

[@ColinJamesPoulter]

Awesome as ever from Mad Colin

[@brianaustin8989]

If the ribs had been laser cut with a 2 holes on the centre line that aligned the ribs, so as a rod could be passed through them, then the rods could be placed on blocks at either end and assembled over the plan, then withdrawn afterwards. I remember the original well as Dave Platt used a model of his called the Sword that he flew at the nationals in 57 as the basis for it, when he went to work at KK in 59. It was based on a Bill Morley design of a couple of years earlier. I delt with this in my book "A Lifetime Modelling"

[@nosbig11]

with respect if you find it difficult maybe build something easier? I found it easy.

[@nosbig11]

Did it ever fly???

[@Rcmodelgeeks]

not yet. But hopefully now we have the new field it will soon.

[@IansRCExploits]

Shit you've nearly got as many Lipos as me!!! Pmsl

[@skyterrapin]

What a pain....hope the rest goes smoothly.

[@Rcmodelgeeks]

Would have been more of pain without the fret saw ;o)

[@prep0wer]

Instead of using the original control line model it would be maybe a nice project to use a small electric plane tethered control line model. You can use a big battery on the central ball bearing rotating and (almost indefinite) powering the plane. Also you can use RC control to control it outside of the flying circle.

[@Vass881234]

I flew a tornado at Cranwell 🐵

[@nosbig11]

errrrrrrr. errrrrrr errrrrrrr. errrrrrrr errrrrrrr errrrrrrr

[@GadgetMart]

Hope your going to send this video to vintage rc model co.. Poor kit so far

[@Rcmodelgeeks]

im sure they will see it ;o)

[@nosbig11]

VMC are not wrong,the video is.....