Weld Fusion Overlay

[@moderndino]

You're such a good host Keith. My favorite when I spend downtime. I like the no-compromise attitude. I like all the effort spent minimizing runout before machining. You're a credit to the machining art and the info/entertainment aspect of the web. Don't ever get old or hurt friend.

[@hugodemasi710]

very impressive welding with no distortion ,until you got to the machining point i did not think it possible you are a skilled man thank you for the video

[@dougspair]

I was thinking of a more detailed explanation of the shaft alloy, but I can look that up. Your work and videos are on a par with Jody at welding tips and tricks. Good detail, no bragging (although you have the rights), solutions to everyday problems. At the Welding/Machine shop I worked, we had little of this type of marine work, most boats here are outboards. Still, plenty of bent and beaten up shafts from Hydraulic stuff.

[@ChrisLawley43]

I'm a welder and I must say I have enjoy the hell out a your videos here

[@KeithFenner]

@nder12345 Asome! No question to small, soak it up like a spunge, respect the sourses of your knowledge, don't burn any bridges, strive for diversity and last note: Workmanship exspectations are built from within yourself... As long as I'm alive and able to tend to my channel, you can consider me an open book, thanks for the Kudo's... Keith

[@joshuabuckingham1617]

awesome job! Love your style and flow. It would be an honor to work beside you and just learn. You are a true craftsman for sure. Thanks again! Love the music!

[@danielhoffman2299]

I love the idea of blending with the heliarc... That goes in my box of trix for sure.. Can't wait to try it.

[@KeithFenner]

It's Aquamet 22 and the rod is a nitronic 50 compatible...

[@KeithFenner]

I maintained weld position as if each bead was layed as it would be for a vertical weld dime stack up. I'm going to say most, because i'm not 100% sure, that rods with vertical welding capablities can weld over them selfs as long as your ganing altitude, no down hill runing. You acually find your self using the slag to hold the bead your laying so you can create a thicker layer. On the bucket ear project, video i used two 7018 rods per weld, on hubs, and didn't clean slag even between rods.

[@kraklakvakve]

@KEF791 Thanks for your reply. I tried a simple weld build-up on a scrap piece of steel, and indeed, it worked without cleaning between beads. It appears that the arc burns out the slag right under the weld (as long as you progress upwards, at least). Even with the E6013 which will otherwise happily trap slag under the weld if you let it, this is not a problem here. Thanks again.

[@KeithFenner]

The alloy of the shaft and the filler metal are simular and with the recomended procedure used, the results are satisfactory, even meeting manufactures and navel ship repair, requirements. Now the Aquamet 17 marine shafting with a little more carbon, has to be stress releived after the procedure but still meets requirements.

[@chrisstephens6673]

Hi Keith, I find your videos most interesting and to thank you for all the lost late nights watching you work I thought I would offer a tip. I notice your dial calipers are not zeroed in the normal place, assuming this is due to a slight mishap and not deliberate, you can reset zero with a small piece of 20 gauge wire. If you remove the screw and black plastic from the 6 o'clock position you will reveal a groove behind the dial. Continued in part two

[@paulreider]

Keith ~ you are an awesome craftsman...impressive knowledge and skill, thanks for sharing what you know...btw, I enjoy your videos and especially that subtle ironic humor, keep up the good work bro...

[@alanreynolds5985]

Impressive job. I love watching your techniques and always learn something. Music's ok too :)

[@KeithFenner]

In short, if you think about it, you don't have to clean slag between vertical dimes because there is no daming of the flux.

[@nder12345]

i love your videos i am16 and starting my apprenticeship and oneday i hope to have have my own shop

[@chrisstephens6673]

Pushing some wire in here you can disengage the pointer drive gear from the rack, so if you open the jaws till the pointer is at 12, then gently push the wire and close the jaws at the same time your pointer should point where it is meant to be. Hope this helps you or any other Mitotoyo owner. The original wire tool is about 1 1/4" long with a small square bent on one end.

[@KeithFenner]

@welderman27 Thanks for the kudo's...

[@Opinionator52]

I like what you said about remaining teachable, one of my mentors once told me something that your words reminded me of. He said "boy", there are usually several right ways to get a job done. Anytime we think that there's nothing others can teach us we start missing out! And you don't always learn the best stuff by asking in a machine shop. Some times just keeping your eyes open, and watching closely will teach you things "you'd not likely be told"... :o] O,,,

[@KeithFenner]

With the proper pre heat, inter pass temp's and post slow cooling, All, Aquamet material can be welded on and remachined without stress relief except Aquamet 17, it has to be stress relief, after this process. All material needs to be straighten after also...

[@rord]

Like the slag lifting off like that, very satisfying!

[@frednewman2162]

Just started watching your videos, so sorry about lateness of question! Don't think you ever mentioned what shaft material was or what rod you used. Care to share that info? Love your site, your a great craftsman and a great teacher!!! Keep up the great work!!

[@Futurple]

I know nothing more that what youtube has tough me about metal working, but every time to talk about heat straightening... I wish I could see what you do to accomplish that. Meh, likely I will never use any of this myself, but good to know what can be done. (Central Georgia).

[@thiggy1249]

I'm an avid follower of your videos and really enjoy them. How does this method of build-up compare to spray welding to replace lost metal? Stan Thigpen

[@dougspair]

Welding tips and tricks, I was looking at that, and found your stuff. I'm 65 and pretty much done working (for others), but I always like to learn new things, at least one a day. What kind of alloy is that shaft? What electrode are you using? I like how everything speeds up when the music comes on! I've welded up stuff .like this from around 1/2" up to maybe 18". Sometimes over an inch added on each side of the shaft, 2" on the OD.

[@dougrundell947]

Love the way that slag came off.

[@almfreak]

Just now watching your video here! Very cool technique! Does the weld fusion overlay process affect the strength or rigidity of the shaft in any way? Is the overlaid spot any stronger or weaker than any other part of the shaft or does it blend perfectly with the existing shaft material in this regard?

[@HolzMichel]

hi Keith, interesting video. you mentioned straightening the shaft after welding it. it looked like it was running pretty true in the lathe but a lit runout was visible. do you have any other vids where there is more runout and and you had to correct it with heating? eager to see it done

[@mayhem7090]

hello, this really very good repair, but just a quick question, when reloading the axis, does there no buckling of the axis, you have the right it?, what is the hardness (shore) to levels of welding, annealing have you had this place? cordially thierry, good luck

[@KeithFenner]

I personally feel more in control, no need for shielding gages and the required rods are more plentifull...

[@kraklakvakve]

Hey, great video. I noticed you did not clean the slag between beads, you merely had to peel the crust between passes. How come you do not trap any slag in the weld? Is it due to the rods you used? What type of rods did you use, if you don't mind? (I haven't done any weld buildup, I am not a welder)

[@misellers]

Keith's system obviously works but I've seen others welding shafts perpendicular too.

[@KeithFenner]

I'm not going to show my straightening techniques, on my KZbin Channel, at this time. ;{)-----

[@stephanwillemans7211]

Hello Keith, need some information if you can, please need to install Monel 400 weld overlay on the inside of a dished end, my question is would it be necessary to install a inter-vase /buttering layer of pure nickel before the Monel 400

[@lwilton]

Apologies for a very late question, I've just recently come across your videos. I was wondering why you chose to use stick and lay the fill longitudinally? Couldn't you just spiral fill with the MIG? Or would you have problems with penetration or heat buildup, or not have the right wire available? Thanks! I'm really impressed by the range and quality of the work you do.

[@KeithFenner]

l wilton Using the matching filler and controlling the heat are the most determining factors. ;{)------

[@WAVETUBE84]

+l wilton When welding, you have to alternate the welds from one side to another. I have welded some things by with mig by welding one bead, fipping the part 180 degrees and welding the other side. I did this back and forth until finished. the end result was straight. On Keith's shaft, he alternated the welds too. When the weld cools, it pulls quite a bit and will bend the shaft. Doing continuous spiral weld would seem like a great idea, but in practice it ends up distorting the shaft like a corkscrew. Having a straight shaft is imortant on a propellor shaft. On steel crank shafts, they use flux immersion welding to build up the bearing journals. Since the crankshaft is so ridgid there isn't much distortion. They also reheat the welded area and normalize, stressrelieve then retemper the journal area. Keith shows a few of the shaft strightening trade secrets in his later videos and the the shaft roller jigs that he uses.

[@Micscience]

More good stuff! you keep gettiner done

[@theslimeylimey]

Our customer is switching from 316L to Aquamet 22 for rudder assemblies so how does this compare to 316L for machining? The higher chrome content suggests it will be more difficult (especially blind tapping which already sucks in 316L). The main shafts go up to 10"diameter x 10ft long with a 24" x 2" inch thick A36(44W) steel flange that gets welded to one end and machined. Nice repair job btw!

[@KeithFenner]

Drilling and tapping is one of the hardest things to do with Aquamet Material even if I make it look easy. The material is close to $15 a pound in small rounds and $13 a pound in larger sizes. ;{)-----

[@theslimeylimey]

Damn that's pricey. Probably explains why only the linkage pins are changing and not the 1200lb main shafts so I've been told ;) I will be tapping 1/2 and 5/8 NC blind holes so it should be a joy :)

[@WilliamPayneNZ]

@@theslimeylimey 7 years later how did you guys get on with that job and the material change? You may not be around to answer but worth a shot.

[@jamesmckay9966]

Keith, You made an important comment regarding refreshment because people can be hum drum. All of of the major airlines have Check Captains to insure pilots do not skip important peramitores in their flight regemeses. PARDON MY SPELLINGS. Jim mcKay

[@moto9ll]

welding tips and tricks.com .....the dude is about as good as it gets...

[@NOBOX7]

kieth you often refer to "big bucks for a new shaft , so how much do these things cost ? you seem to spend several hours on these things and i would imagine you cost 55 to $100 per hour

[@jrstow86]

i know you know what you're doing from all the videos i watch of you, but i must say, i'm pretty experienced in welding pump and rotor shafts for vertical turbine pumps and various motors, but! try running a bead perpendicular to the shaft with the shaft turning. i use flux-cored gas shielded .045" mig, the outcome is far cleaner and tends to be much straighter than running beads horizontal to the shaft pulling it every direction. besides cleaner, the weld isn't as hard to turn.

[@lordofbees9067]

Have to tryone day friction welding....

[@blauschuh]

nice job, look awesome

[@Kerosene_Stream]

What is that shaft for?

[@Kalkaekie]

Nice job !

[@selta77]

Wow - Great work~!

[@TheCreedBratton]

awesome video! subscribed

[@GGGRRiny]

This customer really should think of a realignment, a taper wear like that indicates miss alignment.

[@billshuey7422]

My father used this technique ro buildup Caterpillar rollers

[@MrDaim0]

Classy.

[@KeithFenner]

It's a boat shaft! ;{)-----