Making an Aluminum Way Cover Part 1: Casting the Part in my Backyard Foundry

Casting an aluminum copy of the missing way cover for the Georgia Museum of Agriculture's Lodge & Shipley lathe using an original cast iron cover as a pattern.

[@eosdelb]

My dad was a foundry man. I wish I had asked him questions about it before he died. Thanks for posting. takes me back.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Grady Bledsoe I know what you mean. Lots of things I would like to go back and talk to my grandfathers about. Glad that you enjoyed!

[@Abom79]

Awesome video Keith! It was great to see the step by step actions needed to mold and pour a casting like that. Very informative! Can't wait to see the new guard on the lathe. BTW, I did this same job with the Pacemaker, only mine was formed steel and welded. Thanks for sharing with us! Adam

[@lar0638]

I know right that's awesome brovo brovo bro 👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@bcbloc02]

I love the casting work! I have been fascinated with blast furnaces and iron since I went to the Sloss furnaces in Birmingham Al with my dad as a kid. At the time he was working for US Steel there and that place was really neat too. Seeing those huge ladels of molten steel floating around, and all the rows of open hearth furnaces roaring like jet engines. It was an impressive place as a kid.

[@swarfrat311]

Keith It always amazes me when you do foundry work. It must be a very rewarding art. You take a raw material, use fire (a basic "element") to make the material molten, then pour it into a mold that you also made. You are then given an item that requires your skill as a metal worker to finish to your desired requirements. Like any hobby, I can see how this could really be a lot of fun. The gratification comes from the part you have made and can put to use. I find it's as interesting and enjoyable to watch as anyone making something on a lathe or mill. Thanks for sharing! Have a good one! Dave

[@eliduttman315]

***** Keith, What you have for aluminum and brass is a darned good start. Other DIY molders use the same sort of setup, but have dual fuel burners. They get things going with propane and then switch to waste oil. It seems that oil burns hotter than propane and that melts the ferrous scrap. Obviously, you can't use a cast iron pot as the melting vessel. You need a crucible made from refractory material. Good luck. Eli D.

[@jtkilroy]

***** Hey Keith, I'd love to exchange info with you on waste oil, I am interested in building a waste oil furnace as well. That seems to be the cheapest way to get to iron melting temp at home.

[@jtkilroy]

That would be great. I got started down this path when someone gave me a copy of the Artful Bodgers waste oil furnace book, pretty much gives you an A to Z how to.

[@Kenjinn13]

this video was very fun to watch, thank you

[@VintageMachinery]

+Josh_1313 Thanks!

[@rljzathras]

Never mind the part cooling down, it's pretty cool to have a railway line running into the workshop :-)

[@sparkyprojects]

What about lifting cast iron parts with strong magnets, something like the welders positioning magnets maybe

[@prinzeugenvansovoyen732]

loud speaker magnets also work great for stuff like this - but put a piece of foam or a sponge between the magnet and the cast so the magnet doesnt bang it

[@dumbo800]

@@prinzeugenvansovoyen732 He did mention movers, didn't he? That is what those magnets are often called and marketed as for commercial and industrial applications. The set I use for hobbing are branded as magnetic movers.

[@bdemaree]

I was thinking old school cb antenna.

[@Q_Branch]

Brings back memories, I used to love casting aluminium.. Thanks for posting the video.

[@mclarpet]

Excellent video Keith. Your riser worked a treat. I have to laugh at your choice of foundry boots - speaking from experience, aluminium burns are no joke.

[@hobbitreet]

Well done. Clearly this was not the first time you'd done this; thank you for investing your time to share with others.

[@richardsurber8226]

Totally amazing. I had no idea you could make an aluminium part from a cast iron part by casting in your shop

[@dicksargent3582]

Keith a large magnet, like the one HF sells will be a big help in removing a cast iron pattern from a mold next time. :)

[@oudijzergek]

Or even a pair of mag-bases....

[@ForYourConsideration]

Reminds me of enjoyable days in high school shop class. Thanks Keith.

[@eshabilnanacak]

Respect to this man.His job not easy.

[@mduvigneaud]

Keith, as always, great video. I appreciate you taking the time to show and explain what you are doing and why. Great stuff! Like James Rawlings, I was thinking that a couple magnets would be helpful for lifting the original casting out of the mold. Perhaps an inexpensive indicator mag base or two.

[@mattweiers6226]

Thanks for the video Keith! Other ways to remove patterns from the sand are 1. place the bottom board against the pattern on the drag, flip it over on the bench and then lift the drag and the pattern will stay on the bench or 2. with a wooden pattern, flip the drag over and place two of the same size boards on the bench, rest both sides against the boards, say 1 or 2 inches high, and then tap the drag downward...the pattern will fall out perfectly vertically that way. I sometimes have more luck with that than draw spikes or threaded spikes because it's hard to get a perfectly vertical lift.

[@samuelkellogg9475]

i think that is a great part.. Myself never having cast anything tends to think that's a nice part. you know not everyone can do it.. thanks for your work on this vintage machine channel.

[@halnywiatr]

When replicating a casting in aluminum, cover as many of the original’s surfaces as practicable with heavy shelving paper. This accomplishes two things: The +/- 25 mil thickness makes up for some of the shrinkage; and, the smoother surface lessens the roughness of a casting-of-a-casting. Also, for parts that are to be machined, those areas should be built-up with more layers or even (dare I say) duct tape to allow for the sacrificial machining volume.

[@VintageMachinery]

halnywiatr Agreed - however, in this case, the added shrinkage was not an issue so I did not bother building up any surfaces. I have used similar tricks many times on other projects.

[@HotelPapa100]

I've done a little bit of aluminium casting myself during my apprenticeship in an experienced casting shop. What we did differently then: The casting gates would be cut as thin, wide slots with the lancet, tapered, thicker at the flow channel, narrower at the actual gate. This makes for quieter flow and easier cleanup. We'd also manually dig a pouring bowl next to the spout, with an overflow edge. Makes it easier to pour, and again, quieter flow. What we'd also usually have, but not on a part like this, which has very even thickness: A so called riser, a vent with large cross section over the thickest portion of the part. This would remain liquid the longest, along with the thick portion, and feed liquid metal in there as it was solidifying and shrinking, thus avoiding voids.

[@VintageMachinery]

+HotelPapa100 Thanks for the tips. I have a lot to lean to get better at casting. I don't have the advantage of having someone experienced to learn from in person.

[@mavoside]

Just wondering if a couple of rare earth magnets would have helped lift the cast iron from the sand mound? Love your videos and the restoration work you do!

[@davidstelter2391]

I had the same thought - a big lift magnet or two, maybe a hoist above to help with a stable, straight lift.

[@bobjimenez4464]

Great video Keith, remember that it's easier to cut excess material off than to put it on, no need to be worried about being perfect when removing the pattern on something like this. I like how you are able to do a little of everything in your shop, it looks fun but with plenty of challenges. Have a great day!

[@bobjimenez4464]

Keith, be thankful that your foundry work is what it is. Never discount your abilities, you are indeed the master of many aspects of manufacturing including some types of pattern making. Most people have never heard of a cope, drag or risers. Keep making the videos, you are also an excellent screen director, stunt man, writer, camera man and crew too. Most actors would end up chopping off a finger if they tried operating your horizontal mill...lol.

[@bobjimenez4464]

Keith, one thing I forgot to say. I am learning from your videos, Thank you for taking the time to teach me some of your manufacturing tricks.

[@bobjimenez4464]

Every morning I wake up with a cup of coffee while the Mrs is still sleeping and watch youtube videos. Yours are some of the best and it's a blast being able to hang out in your shop from a few thousand miles away.

[@n1ztb]

If you have the ability, pre-heat the mold in an oven at 450-500F for an hour or two. It helps alleviate the cooling on thinner cross-sections.

[@mrt7152]

Nice working shop you have, couldn't help notice that there is an old train rails coming into your shop.

[@VintageMachinery]

I am doing this at the shop at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture. We can pull the museums steam locomotive into the shop to work on it.

[@raypsi1]

aluminum shrinkage is like 0.5% to 1% for pure Al that piece looks really close from what you say you had less than 0.5% shrinkage very good tyvm for sharing gr8 job tyvm for the info on use of a gate to increase the flow into the mould

[@jondoes8222]

I made a fire brick beehive shaped furnace last summer. It worked real well and this spring I am going to concrete the outside and make it permanent. I use hard wood to fire my furnace and use cast iron kettle to melt in. My furnace can take a 5 gallon melting pot.

[@ians.2941]

But can it melt that much metal, chances are no.

[@alaster134]

This was a very good, helpful, and informative video. Thank you for making it :)

[@VintageMachinery]

alaster134 And Thank YOU for taking the time to watch!

[@TaeKenDo]

To lift the cast iron or any ferrous metal, you could make a handle with rare earth magnets built in. There are some sold with holes in the middle to receive screws. Just a thought :)

[@charlesschaefer3659]

Why not use magnets to get the cast iron part out?

[@fatibazi137]

Keith Well done thank you for video I love your shop

[@VintageMachinery]

Thank you!

[@muh1h1]

Maybe a big neodynium Magnet would have helped with the lifting! :)

[@Jimmy-fl8vp]

That's what I was thinking

[@johnedwards1968]

Was thinking exactly the same thing

[@aq-qc1xu]

नमस्ते

[@mheermance]

This was really interesting to watch. Thanks for posting it.

[@burtlade1705]

Good Job Keith! I'm watching a few videos in preparation for some casting projects this spring.( I'm in Minnesota) That's basically the way I would have done it. One thing I am going to do is make a screwdriver handle with wood screw threads on the end for removing wood pieces from the sand, maybe 2 of them. Also I can build up some wood patterns now for future use as I am going to do my casting outdoors. Thanks for the extra effort to make the video!

[@bloodknottrevelian3396]

My father was a non ferrous moulder and I often visited him at the foundry. To see you blowing the loose sand off of the mould and out of the ways reminded me that one of the components in Dad’s sparse toolkit was a pair of bellows. To assist with removing your heavy pattern you could have scooped out a couple sacrificial detents on the back side (from you) to allow you to get under the pattern as you did in the two ways on the front of the pattern. It would have been interesting to see the comparison of the pattern and the casting to show the shrinkage. From memory Dad used to quote ¼” in a foot?

[@donhalley5622]

My only casting experience is with bullets, but I was wondering if during the process, you (like me) felt a connection with all the folks throughout history that employed essentially the same techniques to make things such as weapons, tools, and jewelry. This is ancient stuff! I was prepared for a much rougher outcome, and was very impressed with what you were able to achieve. I'm looking forward to the next steps and finally, seeing it mounted. Very nice work, and thanks for sharing.

[@toolguy6057]

Great video! I was thinking that a neodymium magnet might be what you need to pull those heavy cast iron pieces straight from the mold. Thanks for sharing.

[@robroysyd]

Indeed and you can get them with convenient hooks on them.

[@kenwolfe6093]

Keith, once again a great video. I was wondering where you're at with the brass re-casting for the safe parts. I'm looking forward to more of the safe refurb. Ken

[@nostrings1269]

There is a railroad track going through your shop...that is awesome!

[@nostrings1269]

Great video btw. The part looked good to me

[@VintageMachinery]

+Jeff Shilts The shop is at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture in the shop where we work on the museum steam locomotive. Hence the need for railroad tracks in the shop!

[@nostrings1269]

Very cool! I love those old steam locomotives. I'll have to visit the museum some day.

[@dltd7612]

u got train tracks in ur backyard ... now how cool is that

[@VintageMachinery]

+D Ltd That is at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture where I shot this particular video.

[@MikeDittmanmachining]

Hey Keith, Awesome video. I feel like a jack wagon giving you advise being you are so knowledgeable but if the part is magnetic there are the magnetic welding clamps from stronghand tools at a reasonable price that have up to 200 lbs (I think) grip you might be able to use to remove the part from the mold. Thanks again for all the awesome videos. Mike

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Keith, I've seen how much it was difficult to remove the cast iron part, just a suggestion, if the cast iron was a magnetic type, you could use an set up with magnets to pull it out, just an idea hope that could help for future moldings. Good way of getting things done... Getter done! Cheers, Pierre

[@HustleMuscleGhias]

A pair of powerful retrieval magnets does wonders for lifting large flat pieces from molds in my experiences.

[@charlesmarlin6632]

Always fun viewing your videos!! :-)

[@Lierofox]

Don't feel too bad about not thinking about magnets Keith, sometimes in the shop people just become stricken with a sudden case of "The Dumbs." Happens to me all the time. Probably a few of the magnets like the ones that are used on the base of dial indicator stands would be useful for parts like that, you'd have no force pulling it until you were good and ready to turn them on and do an even lift, whereas just a strong permanent magnet might risk pulling up before you're ready as you're just lowering it down to the pattern.

[@magneticatastrophy]

I know everybody and his brother has suggested magnets, but I suggest you look into a lifting magnet. They make them in different sizes and the magnetism turns on or off with a lever. I have one good for about 700 pounds that comes in handy all the time with lifting things. I might have paid $250 for it on the bay and it is worth every penny.

[@robertlakatus4412]

Also have a furnace with the cope and drage from high school a class of 1965. Bought the furnace. And tool that went with it at a school sale.

[@atlek1328]

Hello, thanks a lot for the video, I loved it, I learned a lot. I wished that I knew that for four-five years ago, i had a lot of aluminium-junk which I had to throw. And it's cheaper to recycle instead of buying new, as I usually needs aluminum for machining. I didn't think of the magnets either, so you're not alone. :)

[@honeybunchickens]

your a great teacher thank you

[@verdatum]

Did the original piece still have the draft on it or was it machined square? If it was square, I'm amazed at how cleanly that piece lifted out.

[@YerluvinunclePete]

Use a magnet to lift out cast iron patterns. you can paint a plaster slurry on to make up for shrinkage and wash it off after.

[@jamesrawlings8493]

Keith, I noticed you didn't start with screening the sand against the part. Is that not necessary for a simple shape or was the sand prepared off camera. Since the pattern was cast iron, would some magnets have been helpful for removing it from the sand? I really enjoy your videos and explanations of the steps in your projects.

[@lvd2001]

Keith - You are my hero

[@MrRUKidddingMe]

Thanks for making these two videos. I learned a lot, but the magnet trick is one I HAVE to remember! It seems you could you have built up the thin edges of the original pattern by 1/64th on each side (I find multiple strips of adhesive sheeting woks well) and compensated for shrinkage. Again, thanks

[@dickiemint3620]

Very nice video .. Been a moulder/coremaker for 27 years now & used to make castings in greensand many years ago .. may i be so bold as to offer you a couple of tips .... if using an old part instead of a pattern sometimes an idea to drill & thread tap a couple of holes on the side that is going to be in cope half,then to remove part from mould you just need to screw in a couple of bolts ... also not too heavy on the parting powder as this can give a poor surface finish on casting ..... first layer of sand onto pattern should be put through a sieve .... and the runner bar is always better in the cope half & the ingates cut into the drag half,in theory this keeps any metal impurities in the runner bar & allows clean metal through the ingates .... one last thing .. a pair of old fashioned wooden/leather bellows are ideal for blowing any loose sand from mould prior to closing ..... hope this helps

[@dickiemint3620]

***** glad i could be of assistance Keith .... find it strange (but in a nice way) that people have as a hobby & find so interesting something i have done for 40+ hours a week for many years & just take for granted now .... I have worked in 4 foundries in total & made things from model steam engine parts up to 35 tonne marine engines and if I'm honest I was always the happiest in my work as a 19 year old making castings the same way that you do in your back yard.

[@erickvond6825]

You know, with the pattern being cast iron you could use a powerful magnet to lift it out. Something like an old speaker magnet or a neodymium fishing magnet would work.

[@jusb1066]

miss this style of videos Kieth :hint hint !

[@joenuzz1]

Loved your video , as I was watching the section were you were removing the cast iron original cover,I bet using some magnets welders use ( the ones with handles ) would have worked fine to remove that cover.

[@specialized29er86]

Them the exactly same casting boxes from 40 years ago when I did my moulders apprenticeship.

[@raincoast2396]

Must have been another hot day. What was the ambient air temp when you poured? I could see by your shirt that you must have lost a lot of body liquid. Take care and stay hydrated. Hope you had plenty of water or iced tea. Looking forward to part two.

[@powaybob]

Great stuff Keith! I think a couple of magnetic indicator bases would have made good handles to pull the pattern out.

[@Pyro19903]

wow great job almost perfect cast I do mini projects with lost foam I learned a bit more thank you

[@VintageMachinery]

Scott Carroll Thanks Scott - I have not tried lost foam yet, but that is on my list of things to try one of these days....

[@railroadman57]

very nice work i enjoyed this video .

[@markdaniel8740]

I live your videos. Still looking forward to your foundry. The sono tube will work of you fill the inside with sand or gravel to press outward. Even pack it tight, the tube will not fail from too much pressure out. When you fill the outside, you will have plenty resistance. Meet up the good work.

[@VintageMachinery]

Mark Daniel I purchased some new refractory the other week but have not had a chance to work on the new furnace yet. It is on the list......

[@farmalldanzil]

After 1000's of casing heads and 1000's of tool joints---- We called them loose & shake's.

[@TaskMaster1983]

Use a magnet to remove cast iron parts from molds. Neodymium magnets would be more than strong enough. Could also make a simple electromagnet to use to lift the parts out of the sand casting.

[@none5355melvinMadigan]

Very good video it was very helpful

[@VintageMachinery]

Melvin Madigan Thank you!

[@LCRAMBOR1]

Love your videos man.

[@VintageMachinery]

+LCRAMBOR1 Thank you!

[@RLNTEX]

Pretty good job. I jot to tell you I had my doubts but it looks good.

[@rustyolson79]

Stellar video!

[@VintageMachinery]

Grain Train Thank you!

[@marwanmostafa4220]

nice work I had worked many things like this I like to have same work it's great work sir

[@namele55777]

you have train tracks in your backyard? THAT'S SO COOL.

[@VintageMachinery]

+namele55777 That was shot in the shop at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture in Tifton, GA. They do have RR tracks running through the shop so that they can pull the steam locomotives in to work on them!

[@roberthorner8494]

IT HAS TO REWARDING WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT OF THE SAND. GREAT JOB

[@alexabadi7458]

very instructive, thank you.the fast motion music is great.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Alex Abadi Thank you!

[@12345NoNamesLeft]

I think if you needed it to be a better casting, you could have built up shrinkage allowance and draft with bondo, or double sided tape and cardboard /wood strips/masking tape , stuff like that.

[@44magsw]

***** If you had a lot of wax around, you can dip the part in wax a couple of times then ram it up and the wax will take care of the shrinkage! Something to try next time! I've done it 2 or 3 times with good results! Jeff

[@bobjimenez4464]

I like your thinking, keep it simple and no job is complete without bondo and duct tape...seriously, the stuff works fine for what Keith is doing as far as foundry work goes. The machining is a different story.

[@charles1379]

suggest using two magnetic stand bases to grip the cast iron to get it out of the mould

[@kejay74]

Hey Keith! @18:00 Wow, wouldn't one of those "magnet fishing" magnets be great right about now! LOL Ken

[@jstephenallington8431]

Next time, place two pieces of wire, (one for each end) under the pattern(or part) and bend them up parallel to the sides. Pack the sand, flip over, and use the wire to pull the pattern out. It'll leave you a couple of small lines to grind off, but that shouldn't be an issue.

[@BuddhatheBlackDog]

thank you. very interesting and informative.

[@FreddeNilsson1980]

I work with computers all day, i just wish i was i did something like this instead. Cool stuff man!

[@VintageMachinery]

+Ironhead Harley I spend my fair share of time in front of a monitor as well, but I would go crazy if I had to do it all day long every day!

[@bjmacgable]

Beaucoup de savoir-faire. Bravo!

[@Mentorcase]

I think a brush and a large magnet would have been very useful on this job.

[@paulstuartwilson485]

So, everyone else has mentioned that a magnet would help. I am more of a gravity fan, myself. Carefully but swiftly invert it and it should fall straight out. The only drawback is that it usually requires two people who are not newbies at it.

[@timzhot]

You needed a good strong magnet to lift it out ,, cheers .Tim.

[@whatsnext5257]

You can make a handler with strong neodymium magnets to lift the pattern from the sand.

[@davered27]

Great video thanks. Why did you use a dowel for the vent but cut a hole with a tube for the gate? I'm sure there's a good reason but I can't see it.

[@jerryingle9558]

Fine Job !!!

[@marwanmostafa4220]

I love it and wish to have same work sir thank you

[@flackyoue7483]

i was gonna say magnet but saw that annotation lol

[@talp2976]

BEST YT CHANNEL EVER!

[@TIMLASHLEY]

great job

[@pablopicasso6699]

Very good video, I am a jeweller, I use a similar process to cast Gold/Silver rings, and various other items etc. Do you make your own casting sand? I personally found it to be to expensive, even though it is reusable for a certain amount of time. It is expensive to keep buying the ultra fine oiled casting sand which is required for small or intricate parts, so I now make my own, can be time consuming to make it high grade but it saves a lot of money overall.

[@thomasstone1363]

What's your recipe for jewellery grade casting sand if I may ask? I'm a jeweller and use a lot of delft clay for casting, but would look at cheaper alternatives.

[@tammwamm9818]

this video is awesome

[@VintageMachinery]

+Tamm Wamm Thank you!

[@tommie293]

Would a strong magnet helped to remove the pattern? i really enjoy your videos.

[@PLINKER]

Keith, still interested in your propane torch used here, maybe your sand mix percentages, or did you get it premixed? Where you were able to get your flask, would a wooden one work?

[@cpitarre]

when I use metal Patterns , I use a set of magnets to lift it out , saves a lot of trouble and repairs . Hope this helps .....

[@poppypuppy5372]

Looks like hot work :)

[@dajoko9028]

Wirklich sympathisch wirkender Typ!

[@tanerkaya8566]

best video brother :) hello from turkey :)

[@chadjeanes4708]

Is the sand/clay you use ordered, or dug locally? It seems to very good at retaining it's form without being cooked or mixed with bonding agent. Thanks for any insight you can give.

[@Durrpadil]

Where do those train tracks go? Looks like a fun retreat!

[@dennyskerb4992]

Hey Keith, great video. Looks like you might be developing a bad back. We all know "lift with your legs"