Kelant S400 Resin 3D Printer - Assembly & Overview

Hi guys 😀
In this new video, you will see the unboxing and detailed assembly of the Kelant S400 resin 3D printer.
We will also give an overview of the printer.
♦♦♦ Here you can find the Kelant resin printers:
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Music by KZbin Library:
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#3DPrinting #3DPrinter #Kelant

[@3DPrintFarm]

That machine is a BEAST! I'd be interested to see what it prints!

[@markclark7273]

For anyone following my scribblings, I finally got the Kelant to work. It turned out to be settings all along, they need to be very different to the Photon and to the instruction book supplied. Basically, all prints must be positioned at an angle of 45 degrees or more, supports must be medium or heavy with a minimum diameter of 2 mm, never use smaller as the film separation forces will break them every time. The bottom lift speed which is where the film separates is 1 - 3 mm at 80 mm/sec in the book, this needs to be 3 mm at 15 - 20 mm/sec, separation using the book settings is with a loud bang but at the slower speed its a gentle ripping noise, much less damaging to the print and the Z axis. At 50 um layers the bottom exposure should be 50 secs and normal exposure 7.5 - 8 secs, I have recently been printing at 100 um with almost no change to the print quality but increased times to 60 secs and 8.5 - 9 secs. The rest of the settings are not important but I use 200 mm/sec rising and falling, no exposure delay and a second lift of 5 mm. The base count is important, I use 5, any more and the base is so solid that a hammer and chisel are required to remove it from the bed. These settings work with Anycubic resins so adjustment may be needed if the resin you use is know to require different settings, otherwise its a good place to start. Don't try the book settings as they are way off, I have sent all this information to Kelant, whether they use it at all is up to them. Once mastered the Combat S400 is a very good machine, robust, well made and now reliable, I just pause it to check the base about 15 minutes in then let it run, I have had perfect prints for a few days now. One other point that is in the manual but always gets overlooked, remove the USB drive before turning on and re-insert after the machine has finished booting up, put it in too soon and the files won't be found. One last point, because of the inconveniently placed USB ports at the back, I added a hub with a short lead for convenient access. This works but the S400 usually finds up to 2, 3 or 4 folders now instead of 1, presumably caused by the hub. I soon got the hang of finding the one with the files in, the rest will give a blank screen. I hope this will be helpful to anyone struggling as I was. Mark Clark UK

[@ruiraptor]

Thank you for all your feedback Mark. Glad it's finally working :)

[@markclark7273]

@@ruiraptor Not before time, it needs to earn me some money now to pay back all the time, effort and at least 4 liters of resin that's gone into it. Kelant were not as supportive as I would have liked but a lot of that is down to poor communication, when I asked for a replacement or refund they found someone who knew English to deal with my emails and it went a lot more smoothly. Enough of this, I've got printing to do and each run is over 7 hours, i can just get 3 a day in if I time it right. Feel free to pass any enquiries about Kelants my way as I seem to be a self taught expert now and its good to share knowledge. ] Mark

[@ruiraptor]

Hi Mark, since you had many issues related with settings, one idea is probably sharing your slicer profile. I guess that many users out there will have the same problems too. :)

[@markclark7273]

@@ruiraptor Fine by me, below is what I sent to Kelant. Their instructions are not good and suffer from poor grammar, I had to do a lot of interpreting and deduction to work out what they meant. After all that the settings were way off, the 80 mm/min was the biggest issue as the larger film was ripped off the print damaging the print and the film. The longer exposure times were Kelant's suggestion as the supports had random failures. The settings below are for a group of prints using 80% of the area, for a small print in the center of the area reduce the exposure by 1 sec and bottom exposure by 5 secs. Interestingly printing at 100 um layers produces almost identical results to 50 or 60 um but its not much quicker, I print railway wagon bodies 3 at a time at a 45 deg angle, around 1000 layers at about 20 secs per layer should be around 5.5 - 6 hours but it actually takes about 7.5 hours, no idea why as at 60 um and 1600 layers it was taking only an hour longer. I have added the recommended settings to the right of the first set of settings for comparison. I don't use Social Media so feel free to make these figures available to anyone interested, you can add my name and email as well as people often need explanations and I am used to dealing with emails from other countries. - You should put a note in the packaging to say that "The USB drive should only be inserted after the machine has finished loading, otherwise the machine will not find any files" It does say this in the instructions but most people overlook it. - You should also add "File names must have normal characters and no spaces, example - Battle_figure_35th_scale" - Also add "Prints should be positioned standing at an angle of 45 degrees or more, they will print better and use less resin for supports". Also "use only medium or heavy supports with a minimum diameter of 2mm" All these points are important and will cause failed prints and endless frustration as I have had. I will post this information on line. These are the machine settings that I found work best, I have not printed layers less than 50 um. Layer height 0.05 - 0.06 mm (50 - 60 um) Exposure - 7.5 - 8 secs (7500 - 8000 ms) Rec - 5 - 5.5 sec Bottom exposure - 50 secs (50,000 ms) Rec - 40 sec Bottom layer count - 5 Rec - 3 Light off delay - 1 sec (1000 ms) Rec - 1 - 3 sec First lift distance - 3 mm Rec - 3 mm First lift speed - 15 - 25 mm/min Rec - 80 mm/min Second lift distance - 5 mm Rec - 4 mm Rising speed - 200 mm/min Rec - 300 mm/min Falling speed - 200 mm/min Rec - 300 mm/min Layer height 0.08 - 0.1mm (80 - 100um) Exposure - 8.5 - 9 secs (8500 - 9000 ms) Bottom exposure - 60 secs (60,000 ms) Bottom layer count - 5 Light off delay - 1 sec (1000 ms) First lift distance - 3 mm First lift speed - 15 - 25 mm/min Second lift distance - 5 mm Rising speed - 200 mm/min Falling speed - 200 mm/min These settings are very different to the settings in your instructions, they will not work at all. If you wish, add these settings to your instructions and say "as recommended by a customer" which will allow the purchaser to try them if they wish without affecting Kelant. That's it, thanks for your support Mark

[@ajc4477]

@@ruiraptor Closer to a review than anything you have provided lately. I seem to remember actual reviews from your channel but apparently all you do is shill for Chinese companies these days.

[@codywalker4965]

RuiRaptor - Whats the status of this resin Printer? Havent seen anymore vidz from you since this unboxing. I bought one and was hoping to follow along with your S400 adventures like I did with your Tevo Tornado.

[@ruiraptor]

We are planning on making the second video very soon.

[@louisboliou7432]

@@ruiraptor OK, 3 months has passed. I don't want to be snippy, but I'm a nuclear tech guy, and look for some results beyond semi-marketing videos. I'm using an Elgoo Mars--nice printer, but was looking for a larger volume SLA.

[@henry1980mt]

@@louisboliou7432 get a phrozen xl

[@ROMPE_NALGAS_24-7]

@@louisboliou7432 HE DOESN'T OWN A KELANT HE JUST TAKES OTHER PEOPLES VIDEOS AND DOES VOICE OVERS LIKE IF THEY ARE HIS. HES A FRAUD DONT RELY ON THIS BS CHANNEL

[@shannonm3841]

@@ROMPE_NALGAS_24-7 there is a lady in this video wearing a shirt with his channel name on it?? are you telling me he edited that person into the video?

[@markclark7273]

The saga continues. After repeated requests for help from Kelamt I tried all the things they suggested and more changes to the settings that I came up with. To combat the fierce pull of the FEP film I slowed the first lift from 80mm/min to 60, then 40, 30, 20 and settled on 15mm/min for 4 mm lift. I was getting separation of the base from the supports, this turned out to be the ChiTuBox base which is generated automatically. It can be deleted then the supports get an individual base which merge to form a solid base. I set these at 10mm dia and 0.6mm thick, problem solved. I thought I was nearly there but kept getting support failure in patches of 6 to 10 supports, the print would still be mostly OK but a bit wonky above the failed supports. Nothing I did had any effect so I attacked Kelant again demanding a replacement or refundand got a reply from someone with much better English and grammar who told me that study of the pictures I sent them indicated that increasing the exposure time by 2 seconds would help. I was skeptical but gave it a try and it did work, the support failure has mostly gone. All that remains is to find a support size that the machine likes. I can't use light supports at all,, and the medium ones fail a lot as well. Heavy supports work but I have to destroy the print to get them off. The solution will be a medium support with thicker legs and top cone but the same attachment size. Supports must also be removed while the print is still soft or the snapping force can damage the print. I have now had 3 almost perfect prints in a row so it can't be much longer to get it right.

[@ajc4477]

So after mentioning the lack of reviews for this machine and reading a response from the channel owner that a review was forthcoming - 8 months ago - I have concluded that this channel is nothing but a marketing vehicle. Not visiting this channel again.

[@ajc4477]

I can see a gap in the acrylic at the top, not particularly good when using UV resin. You never did a review either. I'm presuming this means this printer is a pile of steaming doo doo

[@markclark7273]

An update for any of you interested, its still not working! Kelant insists that its the settings I am using but I am familiar enough with these resin printers to know that its more than that. After more failures I stripped off the top covers for a good look at the working parts. The Z axis is fine, rigid, upright and no play at any point, the bed is flat and adjusts far enough to sit squarely on the screen. The screen however is not flat, when checked with a straight edge it has a high point at the left center, above where the screen ribbon cable folds underneath. It is high enough to allow a piece of paper to slip under the ends of the steel rule I used as a straight edge. Kelant say this will have no effect and asked me to send the stl files of the items that fail to print, they returned one with supports added and I test printed it, it failed, the base stuck but a lot of supports failed so I aborted after about 50 minutes. Looking at where the high spot is I can see plastic film trapped under the screen, the remnants of the screen protector I expect. When replacing the screen on my Photon I did not put sticky taper under the ribbon cable as I thought it might cause just this problem, Kelant have definitely stuck this end and trapped an extra film layer as well. I have offered to remove the screen to rectify this on the condition that they will replace the screen if it cracks during removal but no response on that subject. I am now chasing a replacement or refund which might make them get their act together and fix this one. I would still rather have this working rather than have to go through the hassle of buying another but it might come to that. Mark

[@MadTinW]

Very interesting - please let us know how this is going on...

[@Waltkat]

Thanks for the great video. I like the print size of this printer but can think of several improvements that Kelant can make: 1) Put the power switch on the front. Putting it on the back makes absolutely no sense. 2) Put the flash drive socket on the front. Putting it on the back makes no sense. 3) Offer a smaller vat and build plate to make more efficient use of resin for small models. 4) Have a vent port and fan on the back panel to extract fumes from the enclosure and allow venting the fumes outside via a hose. I look forward to seeing the print results.

[@ruiraptor]

Hi, your inputs make sense, however, regarding #4, because the enclosure is not air tight and you can even see openings between the top frame and the acrylic, the fumes/smell will still eventually get out.

[@Waltkat]

@@ruiraptor I mentioned having a fan, an extraction fan to be more specific. In this way the gaps won't matter because there will always be negative pressure within the enclosure. If I end up buying one of these that is one of the first mods I'd do, along with moving the power switch and USB port.

[@joanyou3835]

good idea,Put the power switch and U disk interface in front better, thank you for your suggestion

[@markclark7273]

@@Waltkat You won't need an extractor fan on a Kelant, the built in fans are quite good create a slight negative pressure in the cabinet, just use a duct to send the fumes outside. On my Photon I disabled the internal fans, covered all vents except the ones on the back and fitted an external extractor and duct. The Kelant will be plumbed into this with a length of vacuum cleaner hose so one extractor will serve 2 printers.

[@markclark7273]

I did try the Kelant slicer but stuck to the ChiTuBox as i was familiar with it. I am having problems with the suction of the film pulling away from the print, being a larger film with more stretch it releases with a bang and is breaking the supports, only heavy supports are strong enough to survive, I thought I would try a big print to see if the film release was better than a small print in the middle for the release but it printed it with no base....don't know why, the base appeared in ChiTuBox, I added the supports and there was no base when it printed. The Kelant has a pause function that raises the bed high enough to see underneath, I did this after 10 minutes and there was nothing on the bed and I now need a new film. When I get that fitted I will try the Kelant slicer again. Mark

[@mariafaillace1056]

I need help I am trying to transfer a 3D model from the Chitubox program to the Kelant S400s printer and I always get Slice File error, someone can help me I have passed them in all formats and I always get the same Thank you

[@tobiasgunther5058]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6q2n4ippcynnrs Hope this helps you

[@ilyadin5702]

Thanks a lot! I hope print result will be good...

[@avejst]

Interesting printer Thanks for sharing :-)

[@guillermoc2461]

Very bad printer, very bad, it broke after less than a month of use, it even arrived with broken parts, do not buy if you do not want to suffer a great disappointment and a nightmare.

[@guillermoc2461]

Very bad printer, very bad, it broke after less than a month of use, it even arrived with broken parts, do not buy if you do not want to suffer a great disappointment and a nightmare.

[@KiR_3d]

Oh! The drawback of big SLA printers is that you need more initial resin volume for any print. If the prices for resins will not be lowered noticeably then the SLA printers' designers need to find some workaround about it... Maybe some "lower volume adapters" or some changeable geometry features for "pools". Or all this will not become a mainstream thing. Not even talking about health and eco issues with this.

[@TinSVM]

I want one.

[@nonamenosoname5887]

Thanks.

[@ElmerPueblo]

Great vid, How big is the box and what is its total box weight?

[@paulcumber4732]

How my friend doing over there

[@ruiraptor]

Hi Paul

[@markclark7273]

I just bought one of these, I was very impressed with the build quality and assembly techniques and agree that the USB and power switch would be better on the front or side. Problem is mine doesn't print and you never went that far in the video. The USB drive needs to have a long plug to reach the contacts, the socket is obviously too far inside the machine. The one supplied with the machine works fine but the rest of mine are too short. The touchscreen is great until it comes to opening the file folder, that always seems to need 6 to 10 touches for some reason. I open the correct file, the parameters are displayed, I press print, a blank box appears for a few seconds and nothing happens, I just get a Home screen saying "p-stopped" and 0%. Any suggestions? Kelant have not returned my email so far and I have an expensive machine sitting here doing nothing. Mark - UK

[@ruiraptor]

Hi Mark, we are working on the second video with the setup, prints and review. Should be online very soon. Regarding your issues, i will try and send your message to them too. Also, if you have facebook, you can check and post that in the kelant group.

[@markclark7273]

It says 200mm in the book and there is room for 20mm in the travel so I assume so. I have no need for this height, I am more interested in the 190 x 120mm X and Y measurement which is also correct. Its still not working by the way, It is compressing the X by 40% and extending the Y by 40% so I'm getting long thin prints with only heavy supports surviving, the medium ones come out too thin and fail. I have just received a tutorial on how to set up ChiTuBox from Kelant, not sure how much that will help but I will go through it later. Since the basic LCD test is giving strange results, I can't see how ChiTuBox settings can help.

[@ruiraptor]

Hi Mark, did you type in the same settings in the printer display as in the slicer profile?

[@markclark7273]

Kelant got back to me with the advice that it can only print files saved as .zip and file names must contain no special characters and no blanks, I removed the blanks and it now prints, I get the feeling that their on board OS might be a little dated! One thing you will find when you test yours is that it needs much shorter exposure times, my Photon needs 90 secs for the base layers and 12 to 14 secs for the rest, I started at 60 and 8 secs for the Kelant and the print came out crispy and almost impossible to remove. I am now trying 45 and 6 secs and find that overall it prints twice as fast as a Photon. The cause of this is the LED array, 20W for the Photon and 75W for the Kelant, that's nearly 4 times the power for 3 times the area of screen. Also the Photon's LEDs are flat on a heat exchanger but the Kelant's are in a lens matrix which possibly optimises the output for more effect. I am still waiting for the first successful print, I put the print size into the slicer and got X and Y back to front, it printed, but only the center section. I had one stuck to the FEP, one to the build plate which I nearly had to saw off and now separated parts floating in the resin. The Kelant is fine, its just me finding the limits of the printer and slicer, which is ChiTuBox by the way, the supports don't seem as reliable as the Photon ones. Thanks for your help Mark

[@Taintedveins7]

This is wonderful information to have, I have an odd question though. Is the Z max actually 200mm? I have a bit of a necessity for it to be so. Otherwise I'll be looking for another option.

[@MrEpicMonkeyBalls]

Are you able to print through wifi? I haven't figured that part out.

[@markclark7273]

No, do you have to do that? I assumed that the file would be saved with all settings and print that way as every other printer on the planet does....Just looked through the data that Kelant sent and found that my Z/Y resolution was reversed, I reversed X and Y dimensions a few days ago and thought that was it but the resolution needed reversing as well, that explains the long skinny prints. Apparently when the drive is plugged in and print is pressed, the resin parameters are displayed and have to be corrected manually to match the ChiTuBox settings, that will have to wait as I am out today. This is worlds apart from the Photon, with the Photon you just save the sliced model, plug in the drive and print. Hopefully the resin settings will be remembered from print to print, I just need to remember to check each time I use it. What a pain, I was right when I said the Kelant's OS might be a bit dated and it would have been nice if this was mentioned in the impressive looking but not very helpful handbook. I'll try all this later this week and report back. Mark

[@ruiraptor]

Hi MArk, if you use Kelant's slicer, you don't need to do it. But if you use Chitubox and after you select the file to print, it will pop up a settings box on the printer's display for you to check and correct the settings to match the slicer.

[@nekoshogun856]

I have a bad experience with this 3D resin printer. Its been a week i test it out , and all the test print never get to finish print . really bad printer model

[@joanyou3835]

what happened?can you contact their staff?

[@individualone]

I got a different variation... the USB port is on the right side🧐

[@ruiraptor]

That is probably the new model S400S.

[@kyledavis417]

Hello

[@ruiraptor]

Hi Kyle

[@marcins5584]

what about replacement displays and replacement Vats are they available? How much and where to get?

[@ruiraptor]

Hi, if you need replacement parts for this printer, you can contact the manufacturer directly. They provide replacement parts for their printers.

[@markclark7273]

I don't do social media, I prefer direct contact than passing on heresay. I'll give Kelant another day to respond and pester them again if they don't, they will respond eventually. It seems that most 3D printers fall down at this point, I've had glitches with 3 out of 4 FFD printers, all of which I had to sort out myself then issues with my Photon as well. Its a shame as the Kelant seems a well thought out machine, apart from the USBs and switch at the back, I was looking forward to trying it. Thanks for the response, Mark.

[@ruiraptor]

There is a Chinese holiday this weekend so you probably will not get a response back until monday. Which email did you use to contact Kelant?

[@markclark7273]

@@ruiraptor I used the alex-kelant address in the manual which is a guy called Alex Lopez, he just got back to me and asked me to go through Aliexpress which I am about to do. I tried a few different files today just to rule out a duff slice and got the same response. When I press print I get a blank box and no action, I suspect a firmware issue, I had something similar on another printer. Its usually easily sorted, I will let you know how it goes.

[@ruiraptor]

Check Kelant website. There you can find the firmware: www.kelanters.com/?fbclid=IwAR0-t9kQEjKSQh8jcPKDMNl1r8ebJbaWLWlcbay6MHSr1xrwMjBjbVh7hUc

[@douglasl2866]

Rui faça review da photon s