Kem Aqua vs Saylerlack HYDROPLUS

[@dylanrettenmaier9577]

What was your Undercoat?

[@crazyirish4]

What did you use as a primer? I swear by Kem Aqua but you’re 100% even up here in CT getting answers from SW is near impossible and trying to source it at local stores is a challenge, luckily my SW keeps cans in stock now for me but that took awhile too. I’ve never seen or atleast used a KA flat just Low Gloss or Low Lusture

[@Forzalamorte]

Hey Eric, are you spraying Kem Aqua over old Lacquered furniture? We are moving in the direction of water borne as I want to get away from rattle can deft. Wondering if you are have you had any issues. Thanks!

[@ericreason6559]

No I don’t use kem aqua anymore. Way better products on the market now.

[@idontcaresapo8233]

@@ericreason6559what is the best product for kitchen cabinets

[@eastbaygrease10]

We've been fighting those damn bubbles in HydroPlus for months. Butyl cell, more thinning, no exhaust air, deep clean the booth... even new spray equipment....still bubbles. Meanwhile, Enduro and CV lay out like glass in the same booth. (too bad Enduro builds and protects like rice paper). We were told SW is working on an "environmentally compatible" version of HydroPlus... meaning it's not so vulnerable to climate fluctuation. We know, thanks to you, that the WB 2k's are the answer but we're a high production shop that can't wait for an extra gallon of shipped paint to arrive.

[@photog1529]

I'm in the Dallas-Ft Worth area and having a very hard time finding Kem Aqua. Had to resort to spraying Sherwin Williams Emerald urethane enamel for several cabinets. Gives a nice, hard finish...the only downside is waiting 24 hours to spray on a second coat, whereas Kem Aqua dries in less than thirty minutes.

[@ericreason6559]

You need to call up CIC and try some of that they are In McKinney Texas. One of the best 1ks on the market. www.ciccoatings.com

[@photog1529]

@@ericreason6559 Thanks for the tip...much appreciated. I did find one place not too far from me, but it was only available in 5-gallon buckets. I'll give CIC a call.

[@chrisb3784]

You have to find a Sherwin-Williams commercial center. Search here, industrial.sherwin-williams.com/na/us/en/industrial-wood/find-location.html . It looks like they have one in the Dallas area.

[@OOpSjm]

@@chrisb3784 SW told me any store can order stuff now. The industrial stores (Garland side) should have that stuff on hand, but your local store can order stuff for you.

[@CT-yh9xs]

Eric you shooting Kem Aqua on cabinets?

[@ericreason6559]

Not usually. I primarily use the CIC waterbourne conversion varnish. But I do like to use the kem aqua on furniture pieces and drawers for cabinets. It’s a great finish it equivalent to a pre catalyzed lacquer.

[@eugeneodell1543]

You should use varnish witch is the toughest finish over any of the other finishes anyway!!!

[@ericreason6559]

Eugene O'Dell what kind of varnish. Conversion varnish or oil varnish?

[@eugeneodell1543]

@@ericreason6559 conversion varnish!

[@ericreason6559]

Eugene O'Dell yes that is one of the hardest finishes on the market. However, there are a few watebase finishes on the market that have pushed the envelope and are hard and durable as a solvent based conversion varnish. Go watch my videos on the milesi 2k poly, CIC centurion Waterbase Conversion Varnish with crosslinker added and the sayerlack/ renner with the croslinker added are pushing a conversion varnish kind of like a conversion lacquer. I have some renner 2k poly as well and I have heard from reputable sources that is can take on a conversion varnish. Also these water base finishes are substantially faster than a conversion varnish if you don’t have ovens to cure them. So Water base getting better and better. Thanks for watching and the great comment.

[@nolansutherland1780]

Eric I love the way kem aqua feels,lays down, and dries my clients do too. I do alot of repaints for cabinets I was wondering what primer should I use that the kem aqua will bond too I know kem aqua is for new wood or sand it down. But I was wondering what primer will be best to use. I have used the alchohol base shellac and I think after it cures it bonds pretty good just wondering what you think

[@chrisb3784]

They have a priming product here, industrial.sherwin-williams.com/content/sherwin-williams/pcg/industrial-sw-com/na/us/en/industrial-wood/catalog/product/products-by-industry.11543394/sher-wood-kem-aqua-plus-surfacer.9198018.html

[@nolansutherland1780]

@@chrisb3784 I'm trying to find a primer that will bond for repaints, so I can use the kem aqua plus I know it is made for new wood.

[@chrisb3784]

@@nolansutherland1780 I have used it on cabinets as a primer for the Kem Aqua Plus White, and it came out great. It's what Sherwin-Williams recommends in their process: 1. Sher-Wood Kem Aqua Plus Surfacer 2. Sher-Wood Kem Aqua Plus White 3. Sher-Wood® Kem Aqua® Plus Clear (for additional protection)

[@chrisb3784]

@@nolansutherland1780 It worked successfully for us thus far on a re-paint. Following the Sherwin-Williams procedure I mentioned below, which includes sanding between primer coats and before top-coat, and sanding between any additional coats. www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWPCGWOOD&doctype=PDS&prodno=035777045466&lang=2

[@nolansutherland1780]

@@chrisb3784 a few years ago we degreased,deglossed,and a light sand and then with a damp microfiber rag wiped the cabinets down i sprayed the cabinets with the resurfacer it was the next day we was doing a light sand and my finger nail barely bumped the dry primer and a chunk came off so I checked with a 5 way it scrapped off 2 ft section as wide as the 5 way basically it didn't adhere properly but where the clear was sanded to bare wood it bonded very well