Kit E35 Finish Epoxy on the Port Canoe of our Catamaran

Our goal this week was to finish epoxying all the strips on to the port hull, and we got some other work done on the forebeam of our 50' performance/cruising catamaran, S/V Lynx! This Schionning Design Kit Catamaran is coming along, and we feel we are still on track for a two year build before we splash to take our sailboat around the world on a double circumnavigation voyage on our new boat. So, come join Captain Blood and Admiral Marianne, with our XO, Brian on this epic journey to build and sail our cat!
The S/V Lynx Website:
www.svlynx.com
Patreon (help us out by becoming part of our Patron Crew!)
www.patreon.com/SV_Lynx?fan_l...
0:00:00-Introduction
0:00:42-S/V Lynx Logo
0:00:57-What we work on while waiting for a strip to cure
0:02:15-Cousin Trever comes to help epoxy and sand the port canoe.
0:04:44-Schionning Design meeting results and new plans
0:09:06-Cousin Travis comes to help us sand the port canoe.
0:10:35-Sanding the excess epoxy off the strip planking.
0:16:07-More strips epoxied onto the inboard side of the port canoe
0:16:49-Viewer suggestions vs Schionning Design instructions.
0:19:02-Dry fitting planks to the forebeam.
0:25:07-Final strips epoxied to the port canoe
0:28:10-Thanks to our Patrons and Sponsors

[@omarrashash394]

While this may sound like semantics, epoxy does not dry, it cures. This is important, because unlike products that outgas, and have solvents dry, if you put a pound of epoxy on the boat, it continues to weigh a pound, unless you remove it. As you build this cat, you’ll be continually evaluating when, and how much epoxy you remove. Some of this is counterintuitive. The first option is not to put it on in the first place. Experience will teach you when you’ve applies enough epoxy for proper squeeze out. However, a little too much is better than not enough. The second technique is to remove excess epoxy, while it is still wet. The easiest way to remove epoxy is before it cures. Resist the urge to just drop everything and go home at the end of the day. You don’t need to wipe down with acetone or lacquer thinner, but you do need to remove the gobs of excess. Plastic yellow scrapers, predominantly used in auto body work, are useful for this. Additionally, plain old vinegar is useful to clean anything that’s got uncurled epoxy on it, including your skin. Don’t place high carbon steel tools in it, they’ll dissolve. DAMHIKT. Last, but not least, normally epoxy reaches full cure in about thirty days. While it is a lot easier to remove while still in a plastic state, it is also still “green.” So, if you choose to sand or grind it, within a few days of initial cure, you must use proper PPE, or you risk becoming sensitized to the epoxy. Based upon the size and scope of your project, I strongly suggest you explore the use of a large air compressor and air tools, particularly the large board style sanders used in auto body work. Your safety tip for the day, do not use acetone to remove resin, hardener, or mixed epoxy from your skin. The acetone will drive the chemicals into your bloodstream, hastening becoming sensitized to the epoxy, among other things.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thanks for all the advice.

[@Finn-McCool]

DANGIT , I just made a similar comment about curing, pardon the also-ran nature of my thoughts, it would be a hard habit to break.

[@SailingSVLynx]

As for the curing of epoxy, we did answer that one on another comment, here is that answer: Actually, we do know about epoxy and curing, but sometimes, when you are talking to a camera, there are a 100 things going through your head so occasionally we use the wrong word for something. We don't script these shots, nor do we generally do retakes. We can't waste the time, so I apologize for when we use the wrong word occasionally, but it isn't because we don't know the right one. :) No doubt, we will make more such mistakes.

[@Mrcaffinebean]

So the secret to finishing this boat so quickly is cousin power!

[@SailingSVLynx]

That, and friends and other family. I make them all work. ;)

[@DD-xx8wh]

glad you're getting additional help to stay on schedule

[@SailingSVLynx]

Yeah, help is good! We need it to get done on schedule.

[@Mrcaffinebean]

I do the same thing with the multi tool with working with resin. Totally agree that it makes sanding much faster.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Yeah, it cuts off some of the big stuff.

[@normanboyes4983]

Making good progress.😀👍⛵️

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thanks 👍

[@edwardlefkow3442]

Your progress is very impressive. A once a week video, sure shows it. Congrats.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thanks Edward, we are on a mission to get this boat done on schedule!

[@porterpilot01]

The next hull should take half the time, if the learning curve is working.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We agree. This was a steep learning curve as it was both the first thing we did and the most difficult of all construction jobs on this kit.

[@robinengland5799]

Great job, enjoy watching your boat take shape!

[@SailingSVLynx]

It is coming alone and we're happy with the progress. But the next hull will get done much faster.

[@ecclesheat]

Varible speed 9 inch grinder (polisher) with a foam pad and 40grit disks would make shorter and tidyer work. Actually a nessesity on this job. You can get skilled enough with then to almost be able to fair a hull. Good luck looking forward to watching the developments

[@SailingSVLynx]

We'll look into one, thanks for the suggestion.

[@jonblair5470]

Scarf joints buddy. Like an 8” angled cut. Like every kayak or canoe ever made

[@SailingSVLynx]

No doubt you are correct. :p However, we did find a solution and will show it next week.

[@imdguin]

Lookin' good

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thanks David! It has been a steep learning curve to get started, especially since we had to begin with the most difficult task of the entire boat build. But, that's the way it goes!

[@Finn-McCool]

23:19 / 24:28 waiting for the epoxy to "cure". It's a chemical change rather than a flashing-off of solvents or evaporating water. Not trying to nit pick I'm only half-sure myself that I know it to be this way. However I have found that if I state something as fact that is not objectively true, folks are more prone to reactively correct rather than proactively teach. So if someone kindly corrects me I will learn something new. :) Also THANK YOU for the isometric drawing of the fore beam. It really helps to see it in situ. Finally, the office looks fantastic, clean and shiny and inviting to the eyes. Looks like a great workplace! edit: Try splitting the wood like you did the foam forward on the canoe in order to gain compliance at the curving twist of the fore beam mold. Only split it on the thickness axis rather than the width, using the thinnest kerf saw blade you can find. Which will most likely be a band saw. You may need to deal with the edge becoming overlapped as it adjoins the next strip but you might find that they nest together quite well making for an even stronger attachment. Chances are this is not even the troubles you are experiencing 😏 In that case, sorry for wasting your time.

[@SailingSVLynx]

So, first, thanks for your post. We know about epoxy and curing, but sometimes, when you are talking to a camera, there are a 100 things going through your head so occasionally we use the wrong word for something. We don't script these shots, nor do we generally do retakes. We can't waste the time, so I apologize for when we use the wrong word occasionally, but it isn't because we don't know the right one. :) As for splitting the wood, that is what Schionning has asked us to try next, so you'll see that happening in an upcoming video.

[@williammcrae3177]

When you get to the stage of applying your epoxy rope to the edges of the bulkhead panels save yourself some effort with the foam removal by using a straight edge, a router and a rabbeting bit to speed up the process.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Hey William. That has been our plan. The issue we have had with joining the major panels for strip planking is that the biscuit board is about 2" (60mm) across and we haven't found a rabbit bit that will go that deep. However, we did find one that is 3/4" (20mm) deep which we plan to use on those bulkhead panels, it just won't work for those biscuits. If you know of a router bit that would get us 1" (30mm) deep, send me a link!!!

[@1dandandy1]

​@@SailingSVLynxmaybe try an end mill bit?

[@SailingSVLynx]

@@1dandandy1 Two things, send us a link to one you are thinking about and we would be glad to take a look. And, secondly, we designed a 3D printed router jig now that solved the issue anyway.

[@1sheinz]

Coming together. Wonderful ! Scarf joints really are a 60 deg angle or more for wood strips, and since you can put the joint Anywhere use a full length piece on the ends where there is a lot of bend and use a shorter piece scarfed in the middle where it is flatter, Using a 4 to 6 inch angle grinder will ,make short work of the rough resin , rather the laborouse vibratory tool. CHEERS Steve h. Ps ; You might want to put a shop vac on the sanders, the neighbors may object to all the sanding dust on their yards. Best too head off the problems before they take it up with you, usually by then they will get the city involved, don't need that. If this is an industrial area disregard the ps.

[@SailingSVLynx]

You have good advice. Fortunately, we are already doing most of it. We did use full length strips a the ends. We used our angle grinder, with flap disk, to sand the initial epoxy off on the forebeam. And, we do use a shop vac attached to a cyclone dust separator attached to all sanders with a dust extraction tube. :)

[@svlamancha9877]

Great progress guys it’s great to see it all coming together. Regarding your wooden strips you could try wetting them out first with straight resin leave that to soak in then glue up with your thickened resin. Also the longer you can leave them the better you will get a stronger joint if you can leave them a few days. Try a test piece. 👍

[@SailingSVLynx]

We considered wetting them, but Schionning doesn't want us to do that. We will try some other methods first. Thanks for the advice about waiting, we'll also try that.

[@jeremyduncan3654]

Might use a bondo spreader to push any squeeze out back into any voids in the seams between the planking? Can do the same thing inside. Looking good for sure! ( I did listen to your comments on suggestions on your videos, I’ve done auto and aircraft and marine restorations and my tip was just to make your job easier when it comes to fairing.)

[@SailingSVLynx]

We have been doing that :)

[@sailingsomeday5975]

Just a thought - but on the Stbd hull - would it not be faster to switch from side to side? IE: While inboard strip is drying install outboard strip.

[@SailingSVLynx]

That is our new plan, we figure it will speed up progress significantly.

[@kevin-vt7dw]

Everyone is an expert except the one's doing the job

[@SailingSVLynx]

Schionning told us we would be experts when we finished this boat for when we build the next one, which sucks since we are only building one! We want to go sailing!

[@bogus_not_me]

Everyone is an expert even on things they have no experience. They don't need to know how do anything just to get give their opinion !

[@jimlofts5433]

Well done team - see you next week

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thanks.

[@Vanuska1980]

You are doing great 👍🏼 its looking good

[@SailingSVLynx]

Well, maybe not great, but we appreciate the comment. It gets better as you will see in next week's video.

[@ipc1962]

Están haciendo un trabajo maravilloso. Ya quiero ver lo que vendrá.

[@SailingSVLynx]

¡Gracias, estamos aprendiendo a medida que avanzamos y estamos ansiosos por ver el barco unirse también!

[@dc1544]

I see you have one and even a suit. make everyone where it who are around the sanding.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Yes, everybody will be wearing suits, and we have two respirators plus other filter masks.

[@dc1544]

@@SailingSVLynx I watched your helper grinding with no mask. Just trying to help keep everyone healthy as can be.

[@dalgamor]

@@dc1544 Yes, we know. That was actually edited out of sequence. He started sanding and we noticed he wasn't wearing a mask and handed him an M95 quickly, which you see in an earlier shot. We got the suits out soon after and I took over sanding.

[@rhyslightning3379]

Looks like a few people already recommended to pre-wet the wood before applying the thickened epoxy! A resin starved joint will be very brittle. Saying that, the rebate joint should be much stronger than end-grain; good solution! By the way, I really like your 'mixed deluxe nuts' container to keep your wingnuts in! My kinda humour 😆 keep up the great work!

[@SailingSVLynx]

Opps, I edited this reply by accident. I think I had said something about... "You noticed that? :) As for wetting the wood, Schionning recommended against that, so we are trying a different solution.

[@rhyslightning3379]

@@SailingSVLynx understood! You guys continue doing you! You learn by doing and you guys are doing a great job 😉

[@vincentgray657]

Cut the strips thinner and then build then up to the right thickness. On the bridge keep working and it will be done 😎

[@SailingSVLynx]

We were told to try kerfing next, which will have a similar effect. We'll see how it goes. :)

[@-Chilly-Willy-]

👍😎

[@SailingSVLynx]

:)

[@JohnLee-im7iu]

If the wood is just for a jig, why not use plastic strips? Look like a lot of work. How does the boat builder do it? Not sure their suggestion worked. You guys are great and the boat builder should be asking you guys questions…..

[@SailingSVLynx]

Well, plastic is heavy compared to cedar, and weight matters. We figured it how now, so we are moving along on the forebeam :)

[@mckenziekeith7434]

Can you show a picture of the broken joints? There are different reasons for joints to fail. One thing that is sometimes recommended is to coat the wood with unthickened epoxy first, THEN add the thickened epoxy and clamp. The reasoning is that epoxy will migrate into the dry wood, leaving too much thickener in the gap. (a resin-starved joint). Another reason is that the epoxy portion of the joint may be more rigid than the wood, so the wood immediately adjacent to the epoxy fails (stress is concentrated in the wood). Anyway, seeing how it breaks may provide a clue to how to modify the process to get a better result.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We did give that a try without much luck, but we have made a breakthrough which seems to be working. We'll show what we did in the next video. ;)

[@sergueiothonucci1638]

😃

[@SailingSVLynx]

:)

[@DaveHines1]

Why does it seem that boat building is 90% sanding and grinding ? 😃🍻

[@SailingSVLynx]

No kidding!

[@terryroth9707]

Glue goes everywhere. Especially where you don't want it. 😂

[@DaveHines1]

@@SailingSVLynx having watched Matt and Jessica on MJ sailing and Roscoe on Life on the Hulls amongst others , now you , it certainly seems that , not to mention the graveyard of destroyed power tools :)

[@DaveHines1]

@@terryroth9707 yeah , that's something to do with the law of selective gravitation 😃😃

[@briantasse5257]

only 90?

[@DiveGirlDeb]

As you're screwing in the small strips for your forward beam my thoughts are that you're actually pushing the wood below the highest point of your form. So I would suggest that you adjust the clutch on your drill so that you don't overtork these. Go through and set them in place with a low torque setting and get the whole piece attached, and then go back and tighten them a little bit more. But I think you're overtook and you're screws and that's why you're cracking board's. That would be my suggestion I hope it works for you.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Other than at the beginning (and we hadn't even used screws yet) we haven't cracked any boards so they were not overtightened. The twist and curve just broke the epoxy joints, some of them an hour after the strip was attached. However, we have solved this issue and will show it next week :)

[@bradfordsimms715]

Outstanding progress. On the twisting stress could you just be sure to use a single solid strip for that location and pick the best quality strips when you rip em ?

[@SailingSVLynx]

We did try that, to no avail, but we will also try that again with the new longer strips we are going to use.

[@robgreen2299]

Where is poor Trevor's respirator?😂

[@SailingSVLynx]

He didn't want one, but we will make him next time.

[@user-pb5bj5iz7o]

I suggest you may try using a heat gun and a putty knife to remove the build up of epoxy on the outside of the planks. I focus the heat gun on the putty knife blade while scraping. Once an optimum temperature is found the epoxy softens enough to be scaled off cleanly. Thank you for sharing a great project.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Sanding went smoothly, as you will see in the next video. :)

[@omarrashash394]

Do not use a heat gun to help remove excess epoxy, you risk destroying the structural properties of the remaining epoxy.

[@dalgamor]

@@omarrashash394 We didn't, we just sanded off any excess we didn't scrape earlier.

[@omarrashash394]

I didn’t suggest that you did, was just responding to bad advice from Michael Herron.

[@SailingSVLynx]

@@omarrashash394 I know, I was just reassuring you we hadn't done that 😀

[@MikeWalker-mijeau]

Firstly, thanks for 'documenting' your build - I am aware of how much build time 'stealing' is going on in the background to get these videos out! Anyway, I might be wrong, but I'm picking up that you seem a tad disappointed in what should be a tried & tested method of boat building - after all SDI do state they are "the best advanced kit build system in the world". And yet here you are trying to 'fix' what would seem to be a basic design stuff-up of the front cross-beam using the component parts from the kit. You are not the first to build one, so did previous feedback like this get missed?

[@SailingSVLynx]

I some ways we are the first to build one since we collaborated on designing the Solitaire 1520 and this is hull #1. However, the forebeam is the same as the Solitaire 1490, so this is the third one built. I don't know if hulls one or two had any issues with the forebeam or how they went about the construction since there is no blog or video series. But this is a very new boat design.

[@alsmidlifecrisis8765]

build a steam box to steam that wood before you go to bend it. but your likely done by now

[@SailingSVLynx]

Fortunately, you're right, we have it under control now. :)

[@tommussington8330]

Can you steam the wood planks on the forebeam so their more flexible?

[@SailingSVLynx]

Yes, and we will if necessary, but Schionning doesn't want us to do that unless we must. So, we have some other things to try first.

[@omarrashash394]

It’s all about the context. Epoxy doesn’t like to stick to wood with a moisture content above 15%, so steaming is a bad idea. However, applying a damp towel, and using a home iron, may give you the flexibility you need without soaking the wood.

[@tommussington8330]

@@omarrashash394 steam after you glue joints clamp to form let it dry in bent form then after it's dry glue up dried formed pieces

[@gonesilent]

Would the hull work for a rocket fairing?

[@SailingSVLynx]

I have no idea, sorry.

[@vladserikov5033]

Hi, I'm from another country, I'm writing through a translator. Sometimes I watch videos about yachts, and now I've been watching you for a week. I am now 28 years old, but there are ideas to try in 10-15 years to start building my own catamaran, about 80 feet. I have a question, in which program is it better to design a catamaran with the calculation of loads and the engineering part? I am a little familiar with Siemens NX, but there is still little experience in this program and I thought that if I start studying modeling programs now, but I don’t know which ones are needed. Question two, maybe you said, my English is not very good, what is the thickness of the case, layer by layer according to the materials, as I understood in the middle is the usual white foam? Question three, the catamaran will be insulated, what material and thickness? Question four, what do you think is the best material to make an 80-foot catamaran from, so that there are fewer partitions, there are large rooms?

[@SailingSVLynx]

Hello Vlad. I am just a concept designer, not a naval architect, so I am not familiar with boat design engineering software. Perhaps someone else here will point you to the right software. I just use modeling software to create my designs and then turn it over to marine engineers to make sure it is structurally sound. They then modify it as necessary. On your second question, the thickness of the foam varies depending on where it is used and for what, and the layers of laminate also vary by use. Then there are further laminations done later on certain areas. And, unfortunately, I am not allowed to release any of that information as these boat plans belong to Schionning Design, so they would have to give you any of their proprietary details. As for your third question, since the boat is made from foam with laminate on either side, that acts as the insulation, so more is not required. You will have to decide which material is best for your needs. All I can tell you is that we choose to go with laminated foam panels produced and CNC cut with a waterjet by Advanced Materials Solutions in South Africa. You may contact them for more information. Some of your other choices are to build from wood (typically strip planked or, in some cases, plywood), laminated balsa, carbon fiber, fiberglass, or go with all aluminum. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, as do all things.

[@alcibiadesmarcialneto922]

Is my impression that you are higher than the hull’s headroom, am I wrong?

[@SailingSVLynx]

The hull portion you see is just what is called the canoe. There is a lot more above that to make the entire hull, but that upper portion isn't strip planked, it is already cut in full size pieces that we tab on later. Half of what you see here is below the waterline (and will be the bilge area below the sole).

[@mochifanta]

How are you keeping peace with your neighbors? Seems like you are in a residential area. Another very popular channel rebuilding a wooden boat eventually ran into problems with the one person that was unhappy with the “noise” and “mess” and wouldn’t let it go. They eventually were forced to move to a commercial yard.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We have spoken to them before we started. Now we just keep our fingers crossed and only make noise during the day. If we can get past the strip planking of the hulls, the loudest and messiest part will be done. The good news is, there are only two neighbors. The third is a business and no one is behind the lot.

[@simonsargent9514]

Does it not frustrate you when you have to start modifying and adapting a kit that presumably you have paid a lot of money for? I would have expected that they should already have ironed out and sorted these issues..

[@SailingSVLynx]

Sometimes it is frustrating, but this is hull #1 of a new design in many ways. Some issues will get ironed out in future iterations.

[@simonsargent9514]

Thank you for taking the time to reply x@@SailingSVLynx

[@DanielMashonkin]

Sorry it might be not my business but why not to apply over some microbaloons/epoxy mix right after you finish next plank? Problem is you could damage laminate if you sanding the cured epoxy. You still need sanding and having that extra layer will protect surface as well as increase adhesive. Chemical bond always better then mechanical. All IMHO. And yes It must be a reason Shioning recommended this or another way to do it.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Well, the answer to this one is back to - we are just following what Schionning recommends on how to do this process. We aren't worried about damaging the laminate as the entire canoe will be further laminated with layers of basalt later on in the process.

[@omarrashash394]

As our lead wood boat building instructor used to say, “If you deviate from the designer’s plans, you do so at your own peril.” Additionally, you never use a lightweight product, like micro-balloons or phenolic bubbles under glass. You always want anything under the glass to be just as hard as the glass is.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Well, as to your point #2, see your point #1 :) We are following Schionning's recommendations on things like where to use any fillers in the epoxy.

[@omarrashash394]

Again, not responding to you, or what you’ve done, but to someone giving bad advice. You are doing what you should be doing, following the designer’s recommendations. This is as it should be, since it never ceases to amaze me the number of people who will pay for professional advice, then ignore it, because they “know” better. 😎

[@DanielMashonkin]

@@omarrashash394 That all makes sense. My bad I missed the fact that there will be another layer of glass over it. However have another question. What about the foam core? Those material density is about 80 and it's even less then microbaloons based mixture. Some people believe there must not be any foam below waterline rather then solid fiberglass. Disclaimer: not for trolling or suggesting I am still learning and asking questions to reveal and clarify those precious boatbuilding secrets :-)

[@davesav1]

can't hear you very well and my volume turned up as high as it wiil go...

[@SailingSVLynx]

Sorry you are having trouble, David. We did just test by listening to other boat channel KZbin videos and our volume is about the same, so we don't know why you are having issues. Maybe someone else can chime in if they are having audio trouble with this video as well?

[@lauriekennedy7984]

masks when sanding etc lungs dont recover

[@SailingSVLynx]

Yeah, we soon stopped that and got out the respirators.

[@SpeedySailor]

I have watch all your videos up to now and do not see your common use First Aid kit or fire extinguishers for an Industrial work area. Ah dirt events will always come when least expected. Plus an "eye-wash" station is just good insurance when working around chemicals or dusty conditions, wind gust is unpredictable as is the person who just wanted to get by while behind you. One other note is since you plan to invite unknown people aboard is an A.E.D. Better to have one , not need it, than need one, not have it.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We have both First Aid (and it has been used) as well as a fire extinguisher and eye wash area, we just don't show that stuff. Thanks for thinking of us and our workspace, keep the comments coming! :)

[@haydenwatson7987]

Nice work this week. Only one thing that is painful to the ears. Waiting for epoxy to "dry". Given that it does evaporate, it does not dry, it cures. a few minutes from the end, I started a drinking game with a sip of coffee each time I hear it and now I have the jitters.

[@Finn-McCool]

yikes I said the same thing. Interesting how it doesn't sit well in the ear is it not?

[@SailingSVLynx]

See my other answer on this :)

[@Finn-McCool]

@@SailingSVLynx I hope your channel is growing as fast as that Cat!