Kit E56: Sanding the Starboard Canoe

[@mckenziekeith7434]

A willingness to periodically evaluate the plan and change it when it makes sense to do so... that is a positive sign for a successful project.

[@SailingSVLynx]

So we hope!

[@dc1544]

Happy to see that you changed your mind. Having the bow at the inside makes way more since.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Yep, once we decided to do the crane, it made sense to figure out how to reverse those canoes :)

[@haydenwatson7987]

I am very glad to hear that you are turning the boat around because it will make almost everything easier. That said, I would not give up on hauling the boat out on a trailer because being the other way around will make getting it out of the lot easier. There is no reason that the boat cannot be loaded onto a trailer with the bow to the rear of the trailers. I have seen cat manufacturers haul their boats that way. With the bow to the rear, the curving part of each hull will provide more clearance for the turn. For background, I was an over-the-road and off-road trucker with 1.2-million miles logged. In the off-road work, I would need to do a U-turn with a 32' long trailer on a mountain road which was only 25'-30' wide. In the OTR stuff I had a delivery that required me to put my 52' long trailer onto a loading dock that was in a 55' wide alley with only 36" of spare room off the nose of the trailer with the tractor at 90º to the trailer. Tail-swing is a powerful friend in moving things on a trailer. If I needed to get your boat out of your site, I would consult with several trucking companies to see what they have to say. I would start with a google earth screen shot with a graphic of your boat on it and let them play with it. To my eye as a truck driver, you have lots of room to make the turn.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We have already had semi driver's out to take a look, it's very tight.

[@The_R_Vid]

Great progress! All hail the algorithm.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thanks!

[@ronaldliesting-p4f]

I like it greetings from holland.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Hello again. We love the Netherlands!

[@haydenwatson7987]

For filling the screw holes, I would use the epoxy syringes that West System makes to inject the thickened epoxy from the bottom of the hole so that you do not trap air at the bottom. I have found that catsup and mayonnaise consistency is easy to squeeze through them. I have also found that they are reusable several times with just a bit of clean up with Alcohol.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Good suggestion. We do have a syringe.

[@osbornebay944]

Great vid. a pair of large wheels steerable trolley trailers could move the canon easily with a few helpers, as the CarbonBee did.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Yeah, we figured out a way to move them, so we're good to go when the time comes.

[@robinengland5799]

Great job as usual!

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@romocolan]

a tip is to build lifting points/loops into the boat so you don't have to use a liftingbeam or a yoke. I have done it on my smaller catamaran and it works great (37ft)

[@SailingSVLynx]

In this case, those mounts would have to handle 34,000 pounds, so I'm not sure it is worth the time, effort, and weight of adding them. We don't plan to haul out all that often and the yards are going to have their own system for that and want to do it their way. But thanks for the suggestion.

[@britboy20002]

You may like to consider glassing the hull in sections. Lay the 4 sheets of glass on a small section, maybe just 3 sheets wide and when tacky, lay on the fairing compound so that you get a wet chemical bond. This will save much peel plying and or sanding before fairing, you only need to peel ply and sand the overlap between sections. The following day you can glass and bog the next section.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Possibly, but we are following the schedule of layup recommended by Schionning for their kit construction.

[@haydenwatson7987]

@@SailingSVLynx You might look at this week's Magic Carpet. What Aladino did was lay up all of his glass layers and then after the final layer of glass which you would apply the peel ply, he laid on the first coat of fairing compound. That way there was a wet on tacky chemical bond between the base layer of fairing and the final layer of structural glass which makes a much stronger bond than just a mechanical bond. This first layer does not need to be well shaped to the curve. It is a binding layer so scrape it as tight to the cloth as you can get it.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We prefer to lay the peel ply on the basalt without fairing compound in the way. It allows the peel ply to absorb excess epoxy. The strength is all in the basalt layers, the fairing compound is just for creating a smooth surface for paint.

[@britboy20002]

The above method will save a lot of work and the extra material (peel ply), proper squeegeeing will remove the excess epoxy.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We'll stick with the manufacturer's recommended methods.

[@Dustmadeout]

Good job on progress with the second hull.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thanks! We're working it!

[@theromihs]

Making great progress on the starboard canoe.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Yeah, it's coming along nicely!

[@_mysilentblue2227]

I'd be curious about the good and bad of the innovations that you created to aide you on the build. Air masks, the dust separator, using the solar system as remote power, batteries of course and all the other hidden goodies.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We'll do an update on them :)

[@iBradWatson]

You should sand all day, patch voids before you leave and repeat each day. That way your patches can harden before next day.

[@SailingSVLynx]

Sometimes we do that, it just depends. It's a lot of work to clean up and sometimes we want to get everything sanded before that cleanup phase.

[@kevin-vt7dw]

5k micro managers would drive me nuts

[@SailingSVLynx]

Maybe you could expand on that?

[@treskir]

I love the commitment to this and like following along. I do have an issue with the sanding dust. I think you should at least make an attempt to contain it, especially since you are in a residential area.

[@SailingSVLynx]

We contain it as best we can. We put up a large plastic screen between us and the house in front. Next door (shipping container side) is currently a construction site, not a house. On the other side is a business and nothing behind us.

[@normanboyes4983]

Good decision to go for the crane and flip the boat round to present its ass to the gate. have you engaged with and crane/hauliers yet in terms of doability?

[@SailingSVLynx]

Its done; you'll see as you continue.

[@-Chilly-Willy-]

Looks like it will be fun to get it out of there when completed 😮 fun fun. Awesome job! 👍

[@SailingSVLynx]

That will be our most nerve wracking 24 hours.

[@1littlelee]

couldnt you use a slowing curing compund and use say brian or yourself to run the squeeze out along the boat (like the flexi sander) to stop leaving patches?

[@SailingSVLynx]

Unlikely. We did smooth the squeeze out on much of this canoe, but there are always a few places that need attention later. This time there weren't many, most of the work was filling the screw holes.

[@mochifanta]

Bravo on reconsidering your plan for the hulls. Makes a lot more sense, plus think of the content and opportunities for clickbait titles and thumbnails! 😊

[@SailingSVLynx]

Thanks... but not sure what you mean on the rest :)

[@mochifanta]

@@SailingSVLynx For example, title for next video “We flipped our 50 foot performance cat!” 😉

[@SailingSVLynx]

lol, maybe I'll use that. ;) @@mochifanta

[@jimzimmermann3332]

What was the final root cause of the Victron system failure a few weeks ago? What tools were needed to determine the cause? If this happens again, could it be resolved even if you are at sea?

[@SailingSVLynx]

There was a short in the lynx shunt, no reason why if happened. At sea I would simply take it out of the system as it is informational only, tracking power usage.

[@mckenziekeith7434]

Do you have a rough estimate of how much the hulls weigh right now? Probably not super heavy, right? Less than 1000 lbs each at this stage?

[@SailingSVLynx]

They should weigh about 1,100 lbs. each.

[@captainborchik3141]

Why not to buy and refit ? faster and cheaper

[@SailingSVLynx]

We covered that in a recent video, Why build our cat? But the short answer is, that is much more expensive. Try to find a 50' performance cat that is no more than 13 years old for under 700k, before a refit. Then add the cost of the refit, 150 to 200k. That puts you at 850k minimum.

[@SpeedySailor]

If I hear you literally, you just said you would put each canoe back in its present spot. Meaning the port now becomes the starboard and starboard becomes the port? You did say they are identical at this stage. 😅😅😢😮

[@SailingSVLynx]

Correct, the canoes are symmetrical.