Knife Sharpening 101: How to use a Guided System (Tsprof, KME, Edge Pro, Hapstone and more)

Description coming soon

[@bmwfish2]

Overall, a good video. One suggestion about clamping the knife is to not focus on the spine position, but to “place the knife in the clamps so that the longest straight section of the knife is as parallel as possible to the frame.” (User manual page 27 section 6.1). The longest straight section would be to draw a line from the heel to the tip. Place that line parallel to the frame. The other thing I noticed was that the tip of your knife was flexing. To prevent that, move the clamps to the furthest outside positions. That would put one of your clamps closer to the tip. Keep it up!

[@StropsandStones]

Great feedback! Pinned!

[@lucamasserini2974]

100% agree

[@MrMZaccone]

Funny how all you really have to do is read the instruction manual, eh?

[@johnsanford3596]

@@MrMZaccone Handy advice, unless one doesn't have the instruction manual.

[@MrMZaccone]

@@johnsanford3596 I'd be very surprised if it weren't online.

[@lyssaisgangsta]

I like your ideas for the new videos. Especially being able to send in videos/pictures to help figure out how to correct issues when sharpening.

[@landscapingspecialist]

I just recently got a kadet pro, venev DBR Beta Centauri stone kit, 0.1, 0.5, 3 and 9 micron gunny juice, and a strop for each micron size. Your video was very informative. Will be watching for more sharpening content.

[@homoconspectum]

Good work Jordan! Nice to see a general overview of the basics for all guided Systems, instead of focusing on one brand. As the principles basically apply to all ot them, this is very helpful for a lot of people! I like the style, e.g. the good, practical explanation of the burr. Some additions: - on stroke technique for early stages and new edge buildup, I recommend: 1. circular motion, chaotic, removes more material with coarse stones 2. up and down, as shown, to straighten the edges flanks 3. sweeping along the edge to even out wavyness and center the burr - getting higher grit stones, don't stop at 1000, it's remarkable what 2000/3000 or even 5000 grit can do for your edge (not in sharpness per se, but longivity! also less chipping in use) - clamping ab bit wider, especially towards the tip, which helps with tip bending - wipe the residue in between when on the finer stones, helps with the finish (you don't want the coarse grime interfering with your fine stone, right?) Not the Spine parrallel to the system, but edge is correct, you're right there. I would just apply that to any blade, really, since (mostly) all of them have a slight curve. The reason is that not the lenght of the blade changes the angle (as often believed) but any deviation from a straight edge. The more curved a blade is, the more the angle changes. At least according to Pythagoras! ;-) So, you are absolutely right and there is a geometrical explanation for it, but it would require some sophisticated 3D grafics to show, hard to explain. Here is my poor attempt anyway: Imagine 2 parrallel lines, one is your (theoretically) straight edge and the other runs throught your pivot point. Parrallel to each other, hovering over and parrallel to the ground (your table), one being higher than the other. From the side it's a simple triangle and the "Distance" is always viewed parrallel to the ground, NOT as straight line between edge and pivot point! Got that picture? Now with that in mind, and this is important: the ANGLE can only change when the DISTANCE between those 2 lines changes, without changing the height difference OR when the height difference changes without changing the DISTANCE. Those 2 lines could be indefinitely long, this rule still applies. Right? And that's where the curve comes in: the curve of the blade DOES change the DISTANCE without changing the height difference! Bäm, different angle! :-) As you have observerd: one can see the effect easily with a blade that is mostly straight but strongly curves at the end. Like many swiss pocket knifes or an Opinel for example. Sharpen it with a constant angle and you will see (with the naked eye!) that the edge towards the tip actually gets narrower. But on a blade with a constant but slight curve, it doesn't really do all that much, in practical terms anyway. But sometimes one can even see the effect on large chef knives. Many have observed this effect, it's just hard to grasp and visualise the geometry behind. In a nutshell: NO, the length of the blade does NOT change the angle AT ALL. The blade could be half a mile long and the angle would be consistent as long as the edge is straight! NOT the lenght of the blade changes the angle, curving does. And it's geometry, not an opinion. ;-) Keep up the good work Jordan! Looking forward to see more content from you!

[@Riyame]

Usually you want to keep the edge of the knife perpendicular to the clamps instead of the spine. This is because as the blade tapers it will change the angle as the edge gets closer or farther from the clamps. Mostly it will just result in uneven edge bevels and different cutting performance along the edge as the angle gets steeper. Think of it like this: If one end of the blade sticks out really far then the stone will be lifted higher up. On the other end much closer to the system the stone will be much lower giving a steeper angle. It isn't much, perhaps a degree or 2, but it can make a difference. That is a reason people use the line from heel to tip as an angle to clamp the knife to get an average spread rather than an extreme from one end to the other. Of course that also changes with the type of blade and tip etc as it is not suitable for every knife type. It can be desirable to have the knife set in a way that the tip is a much steeper angle simply to keep the edge bevels even. Most knife tips are thicker than the edge so as you sharpen to the same angle as the rest of the blade the bevel gets wider right at the tip. People will clamp in such a way as to make the edge steeper to maintain a consistent bevel. Usually the only people that are really concerned with that are the hardcore sharpeners that want perfectly even mirror bevels to show off. If all you are concerned with is a sharp knife then don't let a wider tip bevel bother you. Same reason some people will raise the knife up when freehand sharpening when they get to the tip. There used to be an image guide for clamp systems floating around that showed common problems and how to clamp to avoid them. Unfortunately I don't have a copy kicking around but if you ask in the Edge Snobs FB group somebody there will have it. Might be handy to include in the description of guided system videos. In your intro you showed a shorter knife clamped with both clamps on one side with the tip clamped towards the middle. That can give very different results from clamping the same knife with the tip to the outside. Might be something to expand upon when you do a future clamping video as I am sure a lot of us beginners might have trouble with certain knives and changing from clamping a short knife one way to the other could solve those issues.

[@StropsandStones]

Excellent information! I appreciate all the awesome feedback. So to expand on why I keep the spine parallel to the system should be noted. Most knives I have are under 4in and on the tsprof that’s really not a large knife to sharpen so the variation in angle is rarely an issue unless said knife has a ton of belly. And I think it generally works out that way because as you pointed out, the thickness bte is greater near the tip so if I end up keeping the spine parallel with the clamp assembly and I sharpen out towards that tip it ends up looking pretty even with the rest of the edge bevel in most scenarios. But anyways I do plan on doing a dedicated clamping video in the future and I will do my best to cover all of this information deeper. But I do plan on investigating and experimenting a little more before then. Again thanks a ton for the information, much appreciated!

[@Riyame]

@@StropsandStones Ah yea, on a really short knife like that it is usually not really an issue. Since you were sharpening a chef knife with a fair bit of taper I figured I would mention it just in case. Looking forward to your coming videos.

[@StropsandStones]

@@Riyame absolutely, the information you provided was great and shouldn’t be left undiscussed! So obviously I’m really early into my channel and my production value is trash and my subscriber count is very low, so eventually when I get a better video format mastered and much better editing skills I do intend to redo some of these important tutorial videos. I feel currently that the information I’m providing is pretty good but I am not perfect so I welcome these types of comments Bc at the end of the day we need solid information out there to help those who need it. Thank you for the support!

[@MrMZaccone]

Sounds to me like the problem is the clamp.

[@bamabladez]

​@@Riyamegreat information, u just described what I have been searching for. Every knife I do that has a belly with curve to the tip I get a double edge at the tip usually on just one side. Like you said it really stands out when your grit is finer than factory. Is there any tip or way to prevent this? I just recently bought a Tsprof pioneer hoping this would eliminate this issue. Was using the worksharp precision adjust elite. I wonder if sanding longer in that one area will eventually even it out? I never try, scared I will cause damage that cant be reversed. I have also repositioned the blade and fixed that way but this is tricky doing and not messing up the rest of your apex. As more of a knife collector, light user, with my higher dollar knives this drives me crazy. Any tips? Thanks!

[@wccross4147]

I'm just now seeing this video and it reminded me of the dilemma I faced when trying to pick which guided system to go with. I don't need to list them all, but all "the usual suspects" were up to capture my hard earned dollars. The TSProf was my initial choice, but your video today shows clearly something that I've not seen addressed, which is having the sharp edge of the knife facing you. I kept waiting to see if you were going to cut yourself doing the adjustments for stone thickness. Of course we're adults and know about safety, but it brings me to why I ultimately spent the money to go with the Wicked Edge system, which has the knife clamped with the edge up and much less likely to cut me when changing stones and can easily see the edge on both sides as I work through the grit progression. Both systems are slow and require patience, especially when reprofiling an edge.

[@karinaj.bradley6566]

Wow 😯… keep ‘em coming!

[@jacobses22]

Great video keep them coming

[@ceceliahuynh]

Gosh that’s a fancy system. I’m waiting on a KME from the US and I’m wondering if I made the right choice… Thanks for the vid 👍 like the cable tie and tape tips.

[@just.some.dud3]

Great video, the zip tie tip is awesome! One thing I started doing for my clamps on my KO3 Hunter is using Capton tape. Just tape the clamps really evenly and make sure the tape is flat and so far it's lasted for months. I've sharpened probably well over a dozen knives on the same tape and never changed it and I don't have to use any tape on the blade.

[@robertbutler8004]

@jeffdmusic are you serious or just taking the mickey out of this clown with the zip Tie?

[@marctrainor5595]

I really like your instruction video here. I just bought the Kadet and my knives aren't cutting the newspaper as well as yours, so my goal is to try and do it just like you're doing it, plus, I need to order a stropping pad. Thanks for a very informative video, and hope to see more in the future. Marc T. 🙂

[@noelvandepoele600]

probably not getting rid of the burr

[@nairbkralc1407]

Some good stuff in this one for people beginning with guided sharpening! That is a sweet case you have in the background in the beginning of the video too, did you buy foam for the system or put it together your self?

[@trshuster]

Great job. Thanks!

[@WanderingBobAK]

I had trouble understanding what you meant with the 2 pics concerning ... "this is how you tell if angle is too high or too low." I had to watch a few times to figure out whatever you meant. AND, I have a TSPOF and use a marker to check angles. May want to actually say something like "see how the top of the marker has been removed" and see how the bottom of the marker was removed ... which means this". Simple, once I got it. Also, just watched a TSPROF vi where the guy puts his index finger under the tip to prevent "roll off". Have not tried it yet, butsure looks like it worked. Identifying a burr is easy once for figure it out. Maybe try showing the burr pulling a cloth across it as demonstration. Excellent technique and demonstration. Cool voice too.

[@stringbender247]

First off awesome video! But that box is on point did you make that or can I buy one?

[@johnsanford3596]

ooooh, a sharpening channel. I stumbled upon your channel when looking for some guidance on using my Hapstone R1 (it's been in a box since I purchased it, life and all that). I sharpened an old Buck 110 and was concerned about the "rolling" I was getting on the tip. Your explanation of what's going on there has both set my mind at ease and given me guidance on how to get the tip shipshape and Bristol fashion. I'll be subscribing.

[@Platoface]

I love sharpening on this system. I have limited time before headed off to work so I cant watch all the video but get some balsa wood and use Gunny Juice to finish stropping on the TS Prof kadet. That will make the edge RAZOR sharp.

[@taylorhickman84]

I recently picked up the Kadet pro and noticed the stone rod's pivot point isn't centered and the clamp's pivot point. I'm curious if this has any effect on the sharpening angles of one side vs the other.

[@sixkings7831]

Help I have the halpstone R2 When I flipped knife over it’s always off a half degree to full degree. Are the knives just off or is the system off . If anyone could answer . Tyvm for your time. Great video sub and liked

[@davejoseph5615]

I've been looking for a replacement set of stones. There are too many choices. Which set of stones are most popular?

[@landscapingspecialist]

I see a few creators use one strop for all their gunny juice. To me this seems counter intuitive. As the strop will be impregnated with different micron sizes. Is this correct? Or do most people use 1 strop with multiple micron size emulsions? I opted to have 1 strop for each micron size so they stay the same even when adding emulsion.

[@Te4mUp]

With the diamond stones upside down is there no need to apply a lapping fluid? Also isn't it common to apply a compound to the leather strop or is it fine to strop dry?

[@Kianquenseda]

I hope it will accept Tormek small knife adapter ?

[@robwatumd]

Can you make a video on fixing uneven factory edge bevels? You build and remove a burr for each grit?

[@homoconspectum]

My 2 cents: Not for each grit, no. At most for the 2 lowest grits, I usually only work out a burr on the first grit. Because once the the edge is build and set up, there is no need to work out a burr again. This is of course, because I work on a Wicked Edge System, where you work out the burr one-handed and once the edge is established go on two-handed. On the one-handed guided systems you can't really avoid a micro burr, depending on how often you turn the knife arround. But the Principle is the same on one-handed and two-handed guided systems: burr only in the beginning, after edge established, no more need for a burr. Oh, and for real re-work of an edge: get some really 1ow grit diamond stones! Like 50/100, they speed up the process. But use proper technique to avoid chipout while edge building. Stone quality doesn't matter as much as strole technique when rebuilding an edge! So Jordan is absolutely right: if you don't know how to fix a meesed up edge, leave it to somebody who does. Or try anyway, using the right technique. This can actually be quite satisfying! Happy grinding! ;-)

[@bobonysko3167]

When you sharpen using a guided system, are you doing edge leading or edge trailing? In the video, it looks like you're doing edge leading. Or or you sharpening in both directions? With which method is it easier to detect the burr?

[@MrMZaccone]

There's almost no difference between edge leading and edge trailing when it comes to the burr. The extremely small difference that does exist is only relevant at extremely fine grits in the context of final deburring.

[@pedroschg4]

what stones you are using?

[@henrytang2241]

Can you please make a video on how to sharpen a recurved blade, such as a kukri. I am a collector of fine antique kukri. Of the twelve kukri I own, five of them have significant dents in their edges, and are in need of re-profiling. But I am a total beginner to blade sharpening. So I don’t have the confidence to work on my kukri, without guidance.

[@noelvandepoele600]

Basically the same way with a guided system however you will use different stones, the ones in the video are 6x1 where for a recurve you should pick up 6 x 0.6 or whatever skinny stones, can be 4 inch long as that will fit as well but the big thing is to have a stone thats around half an inch wide.

[@janmartinez7831]

How many strokes on average per side?

[@ryanp7168]

Maybe I missed it, but I like to clean my knife with water or a water/soap solution when changing grits, so you're not contaminating your stones, or continuing to add large scratches with a finer grit

[@StropsandStones]

I, personally, have not had any issues with that. I’m not saying you shouldn’t, but maybe just a little overkill. But then there’s always the saying “better safe than sorry”

[@MrMZaccone]

The angle gets higher near the tip in the case of a deep "belly" on the knife because as the stone arm sweeps further from perpendicular to the edge, the angle at which the machine is set is also applied in a less perpendicular manner to the edge of the blade. This is one reason an Edge Pro is superior. The blade can be constantly adjusted to compensate for this without sacrificing precision. Clamps are LESS versatile, and a clamped blade is both more difficult to sharpen correctly and more dangerous.

[@learner5090]

That's what I been asking people, it's no way the angle is same when extendeding the rod to the tip...

[@szilardfineascovasa6144]

You could clamp a small "table" in those clamps and now you have an Edge Pro. But since this won't work for wide knives...probably it's enough leaving those screws unfastened.

[@MrMZaccone]

@szilardfineascovasa6144 The Edge Pro works on wide knives, narrow knives, you name it. Table>clamp.

[@szilardfineascovasa6144]

@@MrMZaccone I see your point, although I'm not sure why blade width would be a factor, in the end. If we are compaing apples to apples, then I guess on TSProf's side we should look at K03. It just becomes more messy, I admit, to have all those different clamps. So on the versatility side, table, all day. But consistently moving the knife to the same position following the curve is somewhat of an extra skill to learn 🙂. If you mess up here, there's still a chance you won't get those nice even bevels. I've personally been using a system with table and magnets (EdgePal), don't own a K03, so I am not partial when it comes to either of these systems. In the end, they all compromise somewhere.

[@void1984]

Do you always start with a low grit store? Do you sometimes start with 1000 grit?

[@StropsandStones]

Great question and this will actually be covered in a video in the very near future! But to answer your question we definitely don’t always start so low, a lot of times I start on an f240 stone which is closer to about 700grit or a 1k diamond plate.

[@abzyberdy]

The farther the edge is from pivot point of sharpening rod the sharper the angel would be its simple geometry. Imagine the pivot would be above the knife edge, than you would sharpen 90°

[@claudiawee4438]

Hi, we have a new quick clamp knife sharpener kit, how to contact you pls?

[@dondavis769]

What type of handled hex key tool do you have there?

[@TalkLoudSayNothing]

I think that it's the one that comes with the system

[@MrMZaccone]

Unless you're using an Edge Pro, in which case there is no clamp. Much simpler, safer, etc.

[@martinmdl6879]

TSPROF is made in Russia. Venev also. Everything is going out of stock because of sanctions. Good luck getting a Kadet Pro.

[@ivelinslavov]

did you count how many times cross per side

[@StropsandStones]

No I did not, you can use that technique as you are learning but you get a feel for it over time.

[@lyssaisgangsta]

Jordan: ..I don't really care about this knife so I don't HAVE to do this... The Knife: 😢

[@ivelinslavov]

What stones use?

[@StropsandStones]

Tsprof diamond plates

[@footsoldier1468]

I’m new to this and have never heard of gunny juice. I googled and was wondering do you only use this for the strop? If so what do you use on the stones if anything?

[@dandildarious4849]

It's diamond emulsion for strops. It would never go on stones. It works well with dremel felt bits.

[@footsoldier1468]

@@dandildarious4849 nice one. Thanks

[@nielsdaniels1128]

When you are stroking the blade, Why isn’t your passes full Length instead of broken strokes ?😊

[@StropsandStones]

Just depends on the knife. It could have been that the knife had an uneven bevel, it could have been just what i was feeling that day. i usually end with full length stroke

[@TheKossim]

Knife sharpener kosim company

[@DANVIIL]

Water, stone, knife = sharp.

[@StropsandStones]

That’s an accurate description of freehand! Lol

[@thekracken4572]

There is a lot that is wrong in this video. However enough of the info is close enough to being right that you will end up with a sharp knife if you follow the instructions. To be more specific on what's wrong. Almost everything about the edge angle isn't correct or incomplete information.

[@StropsandStones]

Well let’s be more specific. Freehand is more of my forte, so I’ll be the first to admit while I am proficient in guided sharpening I am not nearly a master. But I’ve used it enough to know that doing it the way I explained will result in even edge bevels from heel to tip and my angles are laser tested to verify they are the angle I set on the system and are even on both sides. I’m never afraid to admit I’m wrong, I’m never afraid to learn a better way either. So if you want to leave a comment saying things are wrong can you please be more helpful and elaborate further?

[@lyssaisgangsta]

@@StropsandStones that was exactly what I was thinking. If you're gonna say something is wrong, be specific and explain what is wrong, why it's wrong and explain what is right. Why take the time to comment something that has no substance?

[@thekracken4572]

@@StropsandStones sorry I watched your video late last night and didn't get into specifics. There is really no need to use a angle cube. Just use the sharpie technique every time. Even if you are sharpening the same knife and haven't move the angle adjustment. Unless you can very accurately put the knife back in the clamping device in the exact same location every time. Any change in distance from the base of the pivot point is going to change the angle of the guide which will then change your edge angle. It is why you have to angle a knife with a lot of belly in the clamps to keep mostly the same edge angle the length of the blade. After re-watching the video I was wrong to say there was a lot wrong with the video and I apologize!

[@TalkLoudSayNothing]

What if you want to sharpen a knife to a specific angle, as opposed to whatever it is before you started? Angle cubes are cheap, there's no reason not to have one and no reason not to use one with a guided angle system.

[@atomshield8919]

Im here to stop the sadkeks

[@altuspienaar7679]

Too much talk and too little cutting to the bone...no pun intened🙄

[@StropsandStones]

Appreciate the feedback. I did intend to be more thorough with explanations as there is plenty of videos of people sharpening and not explaining what they are doing. I’ll try to even out the content going forward

[@robertbutler8004]

The zip tie is a load of garbage.

[@TalkLoudSayNothing]

He doesn't want to scratch the bolster. If you don't care about scratches, it's not necessary

[@richardofoz2167]

If you don't understand how the blade should be clamped, why are you presenting an instructional video on knife sharpening?