Koken Attack Driver: A Tourniquet fastener-twisting option. Frontline medicine against wrist pain!

[@thommykent7785]

I have a Koken Driver I bought 50 years ago, going strong. I think it was $6.00. Came in the same red box, but with metal dividers. I use it mostly on motorcycle case screws. Always works.

[@scotts4125]

If you want more of a screwdriver check out the Vessel Megadora set. I just used it on our Lexus rotor screws. I have a Blue Point set that looks like your Craftsman. Probably from the late 70's early 80's. Still works great.

[@matui6983]

Ive still got the early model Koken impact driver I bought 30plus years ago. Done a power of work and no issues or failures in the driver. Only breakages have been some of the bits.

[@rwbishop]

I think those mostly see use for removing brake rotor retention screws. The Craftsman one you have I think is made by Lisle... I had one back in the early 70's... IIRC paid $6 or so for it. It saw little use... Edit, Yes, just looked, it's a Lisle SKU: 30000.

[@jasonstorie8740]

I have a 74’ Honda cb175 and I’ve used one several times in those Japanese Phillips screws and if I had one that I thought was going to cam out I went straight to that and it worked amazingly well, and it was just one I picked up at Autozone.

[@bcwrangler]

If I'm sure the fastener has loctite on it I will grab my vessel impact driver to give it a hit. The smash then twist works pretty good at breaking rusty fasteners loose too.

[@foxwood67]

I’ve been using the original impact driver for the past 30+ years. Essential tool for older motorcycles with JIS screws

[@Jajaky]

The best part about these kind of tools is they apply force into the threads and shock loose the rust. Impact driver just apply force to the head and strip stuff out

[@aussiehardwood6196]

NO...u dont want a small metal hammer giving it a sharp fast 'snap', you want the opposite a bigger heavier slower dead blow type thump. Its way more effective that way. Catus maximus did a good video explaining this. Nice tool though, dont discount the smaller 1/4" ones too. Both Vessel & Annex have some decent options.

[@lastbesttool]

Thanks. I'll check out his video.

[@samus4799]

Using a Plan F tool as Plan B is just plain efficiency. Good call sir.

[@michaelthompson7570]

My fil had the snapon back in the 1960s. We all had motorcycles and all used his impact when needed. Not sure he appreciated it but we all did……

[@gtcam723]

I have one I got at a garage sale about 25 years ago. It’s a Snap On piece. I think I paid 12 bucks for it. Only thing I’ve ever used for was the Phillips screw on brake drums. But it was great for that. Should be great for most flat head screws since the drive is usually unreasonably small for the amount of surface contact the screw had Just an odd thought…. I wonder what would happen if it was paired with an air hammer lol

[@Codyyster]

im a motorcycle mechanic and now work on cars but i mostly used this for getting small JIS #2 screws in carb bowls on old fourwheelers and motorcycles

[@RedShiftedDollar]

One interesting tool for removing stuck fasteners is called the Shake N Break. It's an air hammer attachment that lets you hammer with screwdriver bits along with a handle that lets you apply torque. The only problem is you need air.

[@tri_yulianto]

What is the function of the rubber O-ring in the head area? it looks strange because it's not precise, what's the condition now?

[@LabiaLicker]

These are really good. Often times actually better than using an impact driver. Especially on flathead screws and painted over Philips screws. They also make this driver with a rubber overmoulded grip. Although I did email Koken about the torque spec of these ( and didn't get an actual answer). I have no doubt in my mind that these are the best manual impact driver money can buy.

[@kiyosenl.3889]

I think the torque on these genuinely depends on how hard you hit it, seems to hit some curved spline gear inside or something of the sort so i guess max torque is whatever the output is right b4 those all break which im assuming would be exceedingly difficult and would have to happen while its in motion pressing on those because when it bottoms out im assuming it just hits a flat bottom plate, so if you break it with just a hydraulic press or something you arent really seeing to torque limit, also a normal impact wrench is using a much smaller hammer and relies on just way more hits in a small period of time so im thinking this thing can definitely do a better job then your average impact wrench

[@fiskpad]

I use these all the time to remove stuck Phillips head screws that are used to secure raised computer floor tiles to the stands. I pull up the carpet square which exposes these screws and then just wack it with an impact a couple of times.

[@jeffc6832]

I wonder what the torque spec is on this one. I have the Wera impact set that is rated for 25 Nm, works well and comes with a full compliment of flat, phillips, pozi, torx and allen bits. I bought the metric set and then added the SAE allen bits. Has more of a traditional screwdriver profile, so it works better if you have a fastener down in a tight space.

[@nikonshooter71]

Would you get the Koken or the Wera ? How do the 2 stack up against each other ?

[@brightboydesigns8325]

I'd also like to try the new VIM Tools IMP600 impact driver

[@elizabeththompson4424]

eh... a manual impact driver have several & used to use them a lot on motorcycles nice for that stuck fastener & not having a full size impact driver

[@DavidWeinberg-cm9xd]

Have the old Lisle kit, was like $30 about 30 years ago, works great? It uses the larger 7/16" bits though?

[@littlejimmy7402]

I've used them with varying success, I'll try it before I grab the chisel

[@BA-pz3lo]

does Koken have a warranty?

[@kittytrail]

do they need one? 😏

[@ToolinAroundTools]

Of course