Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig [video

In this video I take a look at the #Kreg jig for #concealed or euro-style #hinges to see if it’s up to the job. Enjoy!
See the accompanying blog post at www.10minuteworkshop.com for more details and product links.
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[@stefanbuscaylet]

Thank you as always Peter. Your Chanel is one of my go tos. I am doing my most expensive to date set of cabinet doors and want to get it right. I have the Kreg jig and have used it before, but it was great to see you have a decent refresher.

[@andyh9464]

I’ve had one for a few years now well worth the money in my opinion saves loads of time

[@candeevaniderstine8064]

helpful video. Thanks. I appreciate the alignment issue being shown. Otherwise, if I had the same issue, I would assume it was something I was doing wrong. You saved me a lot of frustration.

[@cliffhowgate2373]

Great to realise it has not been user error on my part with my jig. Your simple pencil lines down from the pilot holes clearly show an offset, with one hole being much closer than the other to the main drill hole. A very informative video Peter.

[@KOZYgoat81]

You sir, are the cabinet making dad i need... but not the one i deserve. Thanks for the great video!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! 😆👍

[@Aaron-nj4ou]

I love the channel Peter. Thank you for the great content. I have had this jig for some time and for the few doors I do a year it can’t be beat at the price point considering around here at least (Ontario Canada) a decent 35mm Forstner bit is not much cheaper. My favourite thing about the jig is the measurements on it which for me at least make it very easy to be accurate when locating the holes on the door relative to the cabinet.

[@LoveSaintBernards]

I got the jig and was very pleased with it.

[@cedaroakfarm8596]

Just used this for the first time on my first cabinet and hinges. Good recommendation, thanks. Worked like a charm and had no issues with the screw hole alignment, they are to drill through, and worked fine.

[@tonyalways7174]

Ive had one of these for a couple of years but have used it only once as a try-out preferring a pillar drill. I’m planning on using it again so I watched this for a refresher. After watching the video I went and checked mine for the 2mm holes. They’re almost square but they’re not square. That was a really useful prompt from the video. Cheers for that.

[@markhaenni4756]

Thanks for the video. Wish I could have seen this before I purchased this, but I'm going to give it a go.

[@markhall3323]

Good info thanks. From this manufacturer it should be perfect, no excuses.

[@tommycrossman6297]

I stumbled upon this video and I thank you for this quick and concise review on the Kreg Jig. Personally for me, I think I could do this just as easy on the drill press.

[@tonytunnell9873]

I bought that jig a few years ago because I was in a pinch in on a job. It did okay but ever since then I made sure my bloom hinge jig was always in my trailer .that being said you know what I'm thinking of the Kreg Jig.

[@Mickey67938]

Found this to be a lifesaver when updating my kitchen and using ikea doors on standard carcasses. I am just a DIY'r and can see tradesmen have their own jigs or do it by eye but i wasn't ready for that!!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

👍👍

[@Cragun.]

I just got one of these, and your review was very helpful. I'm going to make sure that I check the hinges before I blindly trust the screw hole guides.

[@carlsails58]

Thanks Peter. Great perspective. Good stuff!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Cheers Carl! 👍

[@redbank493]

I have 2 Kreg guides. Pocket hole guide and an Accu Cut rail system for my circular saw. Both work well once properly set up.

[@Toklat2011]

Super helpful. I'm a rookie and I just got one of these. I would definitely have thought it something I was doing. Thanks!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks, glad it helped! 👍👍

[@ohfosure]

Really great video. Thanks.

[@Mikino1976]

Just ordered one of these for my first ever cabinet doors. Thank you for the heads up about the little holes not being square.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

👍👍

[@bigmonkey999888]

Hi Peter brilliant as ever!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! 👍

[@richardmark4385]

What you say makes sense and is true am glad I saw this video before buying one

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! As I say in the video, it’s not a deal killer for me as I usually mark the fixings holes another way, anyway, but worth knowing about before buying. 👍👍

[@carllamb6711]

Great info Peter thanks mate… I’ll stick to my pillar drill jig 👍👍👍👍

[@stankisilitsa4458]

Big fan! Love these videos!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! 👍

[@CriticalThinker1967]

Pure luxury. I’m in the colorbond garage and everything is built from pallets

[@peterdejoseph5197]

I didn't catch that you went up in size. Thank you for the reply. By the way I enjoy your videos. I do the same work you do here in the USA

[@freddiedoyle472]

I'm all in on the Kreg system knowing I had a lot of cabinet builds coming up about 2 years ago I got this jig . The shelf pin jig the drawe slide jig and the Forman pocket hole station.i have cranked out about 40 or so doors with this jig and had no issue with Alinement.my only grip with the system is ther is no provision , assessor your additional jig for locating the pilot holes on the carcass.I ended up using the paper template to make my own jig out of some scrap plexi .

[@stevewalker7822]

Thx Peter, have thought about buying one as I’m not a professional woodworker but it still might serve my purpose

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Cheers Steve. As I say in the vid, I’d be less happy with it if I could actually get an awl in the small holes. As it is, there are other ways to make them, and it does a decent job of the 35mm hole. 👍

[@GGallion7]

Thanks!

[@cobberpete1]

I've got a $5 marking jig that I use the Awl to mark the holes and then 'Drill'. No use for such a fancy jig. I would think also that after drilling out the 2mm holes a few times the guide hole would start to become sloppy.

[@philsexton5761]

Thanks Peter, I never really thought about putting a square on mine. I’ll probably dig it out again now. Cheers Phil

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Cheers Phil! 👍👍

[@tristanmilo8594]

Sorry to be so off topic but does anybody know a trick to log back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.

[@kaidenahmad8198]

@Tristan Milo Instablaster ;)

[@tristanmilo8594]

@Kaiden Ahmad i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@tristanmilo8594]

@Kaiden Ahmad It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thank you so much, you saved my account !

[@oggsyunwin9000]

Love this thing, used it alot. Never had any problems with the small holes not being square...

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yep. If you read through the comment it’s about 50/50 on folks who’ve had issues, and the ones who haven’t. As I say in the vid it’s nit a problem for me, but it would be remiss if me not to mention it. 🤷‍♂️ 👍

[@LDhusky]

I have and use this jig. You are right on. Does not line the holes correctly. However I continue to use it.

[@johngalanes5264]

Thanks for the review! I just bought this jig from Rockler along with some Blum hinges. Just like you, I found that the small holes in the jig did not line up with my hinges.

[@k.b.woodworker3250]

Different brands of hinges use different positions for the holes that fix the cup. I sometimes use Salice hinges and they are definitely not interchangeable with Blum. It's still odd, though, if they were making them for different brands, they might sell them that way. In face frame cabinets with Blum hinges and overlay doors, the overlay (1/2", 3/4", 1", etc) is determined by the "tab," those 3, 5, 7mm, etc. settings.

[@Glen.Danielsen]

Peter, thanks so much for this really helpful video. Happy new subscriber here! Paying especial attention, knowing that it was you Brits that produced the magnificent de Havilland DH.98 Mosquito-the Wooden Wonder, Timber Terror! Cheers mate, from the States! 💛😎

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Glen, and welcome! 👍👍

[@alan36753]

Hello Glen. That plane once got me out of a fix in my previous life as a photographic set builder. A photographer asked me to construct a 40ft x 30ft floating ceiling to suspend over a prototype car he was commissioned to shoot and I threw a price back on £2k and forgot it. The date grew nearer but I was busy so with weeks to spare I started asking around for the usual method ie. a triangulated aluminium frame commonly used for stage lighting rigs, the price was north of £8k with a lead time of six months! Fortunately in a pub conversation with an engineering pal I remembered the plywood bomber from a lesson at tech college. I constructed a box section ceiling using top and bottom runners from 4"x1" with 12"x1/4" sides glued and stapled on. I had to briefly dash off as I had a call from the hospital to say my two week premature son was about to make his debut but the job was done in a weekend with canvas glued and stapled over. My son was twenty one when that photographer moved studios and the ceiling was scrapped. He called me to say he could not believe how light the whole construction was with two people able to easily;y life it.

[@Glen.Danielsen]

@@alan36753 Alan, that’s remarkable. Thanks for posting this! God bless you. 🙏🏼💛

[@kevinhancock4064]

Good heads up thanks

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

👍👍

[@skaterguy52]

Use the scribe out your adjustable square. Fits perfect👌🏻

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Now *that’s* what they’re for! 🤷‍♂️👍😂

[@petergerrard5849]

I have used my for a couple of years, The screw hole my are the same are of set , There is a but here ... It does a very nice neat job .

[@rbrown2925]

Huh?

[@jason-hh6lu]

A forstner bit and a steady hand.

[@artijl]

Great review. Got one of these a couple weeks ago and did some test holes first in scrap (yet to fit hinges for real) and found the same as you when fitting Blum 110 degree hinges - the two screw holes don’t line up. Still seems a good jig overall though, will use the square method you showed for the two pilot holes I think!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Yes, seems a lot of peeps have the same issue. I think it’s a decent jig overall, but I suspect the cheaper Chinese knock-off are just as effective. 🤷‍♂️👍

[@kwas27]

I have o of this for about a year now and I have the same exact problem with it

[@chaseowens1122]

Though you might not use them, Jimmy Diresta’s Ice pick fits perfectly into those little marker holes ;)

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

All the excuse I need to buy one 😂😂👍👍

[@martinoamello3017]

A sharp pencil works good to mark for screw holes . Man! They really have to absolutely idiot proof everything these days , eh?

[@OldManTony]

It sounds like the spacer cams on the jig aren’t even. If it did line up, I’d use the right size nail and a tack hammer to mark the screw holes.

[@fxFRA27]

Exactly the same problem with my jig! I just use it for the big hole (and it’s really good for that), then I put the hinge and use a square to make the two holes.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

👍👍

[@neilfraser6646]

You could stick offcuts of cheap track saw splinter guard on the bottom of your kreg jig on to stop it from slipping but then you would have to compensate for the forsner bit piont

[@olrenison]

I used the fancy Blum jig the other day and have to say it was a real faff to use. Unblocking it after every drill was a pain. The Kreg one looks similar but can't help thinking that metal to plastic contact would get sloppy and the misalignment of the holes is a real deal breaker. I'll stick to making my own little marking templates with mdf and drilling on a pillar drill or by hand. I normally find if you sink the forstner bit 'body' in level with your material, then that's about right for a standard hinge. I often do it with a hand held drill though as I like to live on the edge! 😉

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yes, I was underwhelmed with the Blum jig, for what it cost. Worth bearing in mind this type of jig is aimed at light users - a few pairs of hjnges a month, kind of thing. If you’re using it for more than that then best to look elsewhere, or factor in an annual replacement👍

[@jimcoogan1529]

I have one of these and use it a bit. But I never use the small holes even though I have an ice pick that works with them and a drill bit. I use the method you do which is drill out the center and then grab my self centering drill bits. That way I know that if there is any variation in the two hinge hole placements I am still good to go.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Best way, I think! 👍👍

[@JamesManCave]

Good video Peter, was thinking about buy this for a few up and coming projects. Not many UK based makers use kreg stuff, I think for now though with the holes being misaligned I'll try 3d printing one of the many that are available on line and see how that works first. 👍🏻

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Lots of ways to skin this cat James. I used a £2 jig and an awl for years without any problems. 🤷‍♂️👍

[@JamesManCave]

@@10MinuteWorkshop I recall, that little black one if memory serves me right? 🤔

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

@@JamesManCave Yep! 👍

[@yachtbreeze]

Nice video, thank you. I used the jig but had problems with it clogging and not boring the full depth in one go. Then I changed the drill for a mains powered one and it performed as expected. My battery drill was a good make, 18v device, but not man enough to tackle the 35mm holes in 18mm MDF. If anyone else has similar problems then changing the drill may be the answer. It work for me.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Sometimes it can help running a battery drill on a lower speed - you get more torque that way. 👍👍

[@yachtbreeze]

@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter, I tried that but it didn't improve matters but switching to the mains drill proved an instant cure. Maybe my battery drill is a bit knackered - I've had it a few years but hardly used it before. I've just build five floor-to-ceiling cupboards (4m x 2m) having not previously attempted anything like it before. Thanks to your videos they have turned out far better than I dared hope. Can I say that your videos have production values rarely seen on You Tube. You manage to get all the close-ups, the 'set' is nicely lit, the sound is better than average and it all 'hangs together' nicely. Well done.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback, and glad to hear the videos have helped! The Kreg jig does clog fast, but I’ve always been able to drill each hole without any issue. Glad the mains powered deilll worked for you, and thanks for taking the time to make the comment, as it may we’ll help folks in future! 👍👍

[@keith4154]

That was a really good review very fair. I was eyeing one of these off yesterday. Lining your hinge square and using a self centre bit seems like a good solution to the flaw you pointed out. I am going to try this product on a small project . I wonder how durable and accurate this product will stay. I guess it’s good for a back up on site work ,or casual users.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yes, def one for occasional use, I think. 👍

[@hi-tech55]

I have had mine for a couple of years. In a shop environment I use a router and a bought jig, on site I use my Kreg jig. Don’t bother with the holes just use a centre drill. All good. That said I will check my holes now to see if it’s square.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Sounds like a good plan. As soon as I realised I couldn’t get my skinny awl through the small holes I lost interest in using them tbh. 👍

[@helenemoore6097]

Hello Peter: Your video on the Kreg concealed hinge jig was really useful. I have used mine now and it is a real time saver. I agree that it should have a 7mm offset. The pinholes for the cabinet screws worked perfectly for the Ikea hinge but NOT the Hafele. The measuring scales could be visually clearer, but I got by. The Americans are odd in the way that they mix up Imperial and Metric - I had to deal with that when I was a Business Forms printer. Keep up the good work. Regards David Moore, Adelaide, Australia.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks David! 👍

[@johncrichton2474]

Helene you've hit the nail on the head! 1/16" is 1.57mm if I'm not listaken. I think Peter, not being a Yank, used a 2mm bit, did he not??

[@bexaminer1]

Good video. I enjoy the British terms for a way of saying something is less than perfect. I wondered if you didn't contact the Blum company to explain the issue with the two holes for the screws. You should do that. That aside I was thinking that if I encountered that issue I would do exactly what you did. Just put the hinge in place and mark the screw holes as you have. Thanks for providing the model number for the jig.

[@thomasfholland]

At 1:15 I vote for the dedicated drill press. It’s always worked for me.

[@Littleshedjoinery]

I have cheap Chinese made version of this and it works well. I always use a dust extraction hose right up against the shroud when drilling the 35mm holes. Speeds up the drilling process and means you don’t have to unclip it from the main jig to clean it out after.

[@andrewlee4938]

It’s really good but just brought the Blum eco drill I hope it’s as good as it’s price !!!

[@lewisgottschalk2178]

Thanks for video. Another issue with this Kreg jig is you cannot use the blue base if your doors have rounded, beveled/tapered edges on the hinge side, because the bottom lip of it references off straight edges only. You can still use the drill guide, but you will have to free hand drilling the holes.

[@bobelkind856]

If you are fabricating the doors (and that is a large "if") you might round the edges of the cabinet doors after you drill the holes for the hinges.

[@garethsharp4039]

I was looking at the Kreg bundle on Yandles. Not sure I'll bother now......

[@mikeenglish7063]

I seem to remember last time I used those style of hinges, they had a paper template in them, not robust . But a thin bit of ply and some tape, there you go, instant jig

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

I’ve fitted thousands - literally thousands - of concealed hinges, and none have ever had a paper template. 🤷‍♂️

[@mikeenglish7063]

@@10MinuteWorkshop few years since I have. And they used to have a bit of paper with diagram on back with centres on for screw holes and the larger hole. Used to be from b+q, and wickes. OK if fitting a single door. But glued down to a thin bit of ply or mdf . Bit more robust. But then I'm going back way before ebay and buying bits from e-suppliers.

[@mobius1330]

I've done hundreds of customer doors with this jig and I've had the same problem. I've switched to using the jig for the 35mm holes only, then a Trend Snappy centering bit for the smaller ones.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Best way, I think! 👍👍

[@RICOFURNITURE]

you have done hundreds of doors and still play with cheap plastic jigs ? why don`t you make a dedicated jig or buy one from blum ?

[@robertmerrill621]

Custom shop built "tables" with fences and adjustable flip stops for use with a drill press is a much faster and more efficient way to go. One time set up for each run of doors. Multiple doors done in a matter of minutes. If you don't have a press, get one. No shop should be without. Worth every penny.

[@Kikilang60]

I'm a bit rough on stuff. I've noticed that the gray plastic is tore up when you used the screw driver to adjust. Thanks for the video.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yeah, as I say in the vid, the indents were easy to adjust one way, but not the other, and I chewed them up a bit before I figured you need to release the tension off the nub in round the back. 🤷‍♂️👍

[@liloukulele5238]

@@10MinuteWorkshop this little trick helped a lot. after a few tries, the no. 6 provide 100% overlay (which is also the back of the jig stops) increasing the offset increases the overlay. Great video! always regret selling my Blum Minipress :(

[@TheWoodWorkingPilot]

Great informative video. Mine is on the way. Wish I would have watched your video before as if 6mm is not enough to make the door flush with the cabinet - the jig is worthless to me. As for the out of square - it might be a very annoying flaw. Another thought I had is that it might be in purpose in order to compensate for a micro sag of the door due to its own weight?

[@davidfoulds1620]

Got one and like you have always used a self centering drill bit for the pilot holes. Anyway that's enough distractions must get back to doing the VAT :-(

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

U poor barsteward... 🙄😥 😎👍☘🍺

[@andrazpoje9673]

hahaha I am doing the exact same thing :D

[@gbwildlifeuk8269]

I'd experiment by enlarging those tiny holes to take the awl. I think alignment would improve that way. If not, I'd saw it in half - it'll fit in the bin easier then. 😀

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

😂 I think if the smaller holes were halfway accurate, I’d drill them out to take an awl in a heartbeat! A number of peeps in the comments here have said that they just use it for the 35mm hole - and a couple of ecodrill users have said the same 🤷‍♂️👍

[@jimcain7778]

Mine seems to line up fine. Odd, indeed.

[@theofarmmanager267]

I don’t fit many of these hinges at all. Where I do need a hinged lid/door, I typically use piano hinges, traditional butt hinges and the smart hinge from Andrew Crawford (usually for boxes; they are superb quality but not cheap - quality and cheap only come together in adverts). However, for the current job, concealed hinges are the best choice. I had bought the Kreg jig months ago knowing that this job was coming. Peter’s review was thorough as ever and I was prepared for the same issues that he had. In practice, using the settings that it had when packaged (4), the centre of the forstner hole was 22.25mm from the edge - good enough. I drilled through the holes on the jig and they were spot on where they are supposed to. I don’t know if I’m the lucky one or Peter was one of the unlucky ones. Maybe, Kreg ironed out the inaccuracies in the last few years. I have a couple of the Kreg pocket holes jigs and they are very good. Like all Kreg stuff, they are not cheap but accurate. So, my advice would be to anyone with a faulty jig, send it back; Kreg seem a company with ethics and I would be very surprised if they didn’t do the decent (and lawful) thing. I admit that the work that Peter does/did (mdf, ply, built in, cabinets) is very different from what I use and do (almost all hard woods and everything from pews to tables to small boxes). Obviously, Peter doesn’t really go into “my kind” of work but, for any newbie, you can’t go wrong in following Peter if you are doing “his kind” of work.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! 🙌👍👍

[@gregtube63]

I cannot tell you how relieved I am to wathc this video Peter. I bought this to install Hafele partial overlay concealed hinges, ahd while the 35mm hole for the cup drilled perfeclty, the screw holes did not line up with eh hinge AT ALL! I had to measure them all manually on the job I was doing, so of course one had to say what is the point of a jig that has useless out of place holes for the hinge? I have since returned it for a refund, so it now appears that you cannot use it with either Blum or Hafele hinges.

[@Alastair_Freebird]

Thanks Peter. At first I thought it might, in some ways, improve on the Blum ecodrill (which I find very poorly designed!). The depth stop arrangement on the kreg, being simpler, is to my mind an improvement on the Blum which requires 2 flat spanners and is not intuitive in terms of understanding the depth you are going to get. I also thought the kreg might clear the mdf curls better but I see they get trapped in the jig just like they do in the Blum!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Cheers Alastair. Yes, I can forgive some ‘clunkiness’ in a £30 plastic jig - much less so in something at a couple of hundred notes! 👍

[@RICOFURNITURE]

c`mon man how often do you change the depth on your eco drill jig ? most brands including blum, hettich and grass need 13mm regardless of the door thickness , so why exactly the eco drill is poorly designed ? i only complain about all that shavings sticking inside the housing of the jig , it`s quite time consuming to clean it.

[@kadzo1000]

@@RICOFURNITURE I'm with you on this one, I only use Blum hinges so it's perfect for me, I love the fact I can use the clip on spacer to mark the screw holes ( perfect every time!) or remove them and drill the holes for the hinges with the 8mm plastic insert (perfect every time 🤣) that I pretty much use all the time. Also I can't ever see me breaking it, it's built like a tank. It paid for it self on the first job just for the fact it does the 8mm holes.

[@doobiedoghousewilson]

I used your recommended Blum hinges and this Kreg jig. I also found the "fixing holes" are not positioned correctly so I don't use them. BTW - I assume those holes are so small to prevent using too large a drill for the screws. This tool makes drilling the main hole super simple.

[@meanwhileindadsshed2593]

Mine works perfectly with Blum hinges, I would say kreg suggest using a 1.5mm drill bit to mark the fixing holes, perhaps in drilling a 2mm hole you've moved the hole centre's over slightly?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Good to know, thanks. No, there’s plenty of clearance with a 2mm bit, and not likely that I could have bored the holes out equally on each side 🤷‍♂️ Feedback is generally about 50/50 on folks having no issues, and with the same issue I have, so I think it’s more likely to be a slight issue with the cam adjusters. As I say, not a deal breaker as there are other ways to skin the cat 👍👍

[@thomasdarby6084]

I would just use the jig to drill the main hole, then indert a Blum hinge, and while holding it in place, insert an awl in the attaching holes to mark for the screw points.

[@jameschuke4104]

I bore the hole then use hinge for template center punch one screw n tighten then square hinge to the door then do second hole then set last screw

[@peterdejoseph5197]

Its the flexing of the drill bit. I used a drill bit the next size up. Made the holes in the jig slightly larger and my holes align perfectly every time. I did have the same problem like you showed. A good friend of mine who make cabinets for a living showed me this trick. Let me know if it solves your problem.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

I appreciate you taking the time Peter, but that’s exactly what I do in the video - take a 2mm drill bit and drill out the 1.6mm (1/16”) hole. And they’re not parallel to be edge of the door. 🤷‍♂️

[@MrArefah68]

❤❤

[@Cradley684]

Kreg stuff is usually very good, always think Kreg stuff is a bit pricey for the DIY'ERS though, have a nice day Pete !!!.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Cheers Brian! Yes, I have a couple of the mini pocket hole jugs, and they do a good job. 🤷‍♂️👍

[@garyblake3130]

Hi Peter, I have used a 'kreg' pocket hole jig and its ok at best. With regards this jig it looks quite flimsy, typical DIY use only. If you were drilling lots of these holes I seriously recommend the hinge drilling jig SBL-3 by Wurth, expensive yes but time saved easily outweighs this. I would never use anything else since buying this. I guarantee you will never set up a drill press again if you used this, it cramps to the door and will not slip. Money well spent.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hi Gary, and thanks! If I was drilling a lot of these holes I’d absolutely be using something else. As I say in the video though, I have a drill press dedicated to the task, and it works perfectly for the volume I do, and requires zero set-up.Yes, the Wurth and Blum jigs are excellent; this was just a quick look at the Kreg jig to see if it was a worthwhile option for hobbyists and occasional users. 👍👍

[@martinoamello3017]

I've cut lots of euro hinge holes using the old fashioned ruler. I know..nobody ever learns to count past 1 anymore.. 2 is super high tech..

[@bashmahs]

I like Blum Ecodrill, the only con is that it lacks suction port for hose.

[@muzakhan6458]

Hello Legend, Coincidence I order my same jig for DIY project and waiting for the delivery

[@rodgerq]

I just came across a KZbin short that used this jig and the guy used a set of Blum cliptop INSERTA hinges that fit the hole pattern as opposed to the screwed ones that seem not to.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yes, Inserta hinges don’t require screws, they’re held in through the clamping motion of the hunting’s cup. 👍

[@simongoodwin5468]

Just a thought could of the jig be designed with off centre screw holes to lock or cam the hinge to aid it from coming loose after time? Seems daft to have a design fault on something that no doubt gone through alot of testing before market!

[@cricalix]

The manual definitely expects you to drill the fixing holes - "Chuck a 1⁄16" [1.5mm] drill bit into the electric drill. Insert the bit into the hinge-screw drill guides on the Base and drill pilot holes into the door. Unclamp the Base and move it to the next hinge location." If you set the cams, and draw a line along the long edge, is that line parallel to the edge?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yes, but a bit more playing required with this, I think. 👍

[@EuropeanKitcheninstallation]

I have the same item..and How was I and mine does the same thing..and what you do I think is the best thing too do ..and I don’t use it much but when I need it it’s there ..thank you love you videos 👍🏾

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! 👍👍

[@robertseychell330]

Peter, another great video keep them coming and where did you get the plastic speed square you used.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Robert! It's a Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RT 👌👍

[@bobbrock41]

Nice demo video, Peter. My Kreg jig seems to line up fine but I have another problem. The bit makes extremely hard work of of the 35mm hole for the hinge to sit in the MDF. In fact I abandoned the first hole I drilled and managed to fit the jig with a Toolpak hinge boring bit which was a lot more effective. Kreg should provide a decent bit in the first place though shouldn't they? Maybe I just got a duff one. If you change the bit you'll have to fit a different depth stop collar to it as the Kreg collar will not fit a different bit. However it is not difficult to find a suitable collar and tighten it up at a level which gives you the correct drilling depth.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! I think you got a duff bit; mine works fine. 👍

[@toddstrope157]

Thanks Peter, I’ve found the small guide hole slightly off as well, but not off enough to cause me squareness issues, at least for the face frame cup hinges I’ve tried. I did have some issue when I did not have both cams set for the same spacing. I’ll have to go back and experiment with the frameless hinges when I get back in the shop. I wonder whether the US hinge makers have a variation from the European versions, I have a Kreg drawer pull drilling jig that doesn’t quite handle one of the European spacings very well either. Yes, switching the drill between the Forstner and 1/16” bit is a pain, and I’ve found a little difficulty pushing the forstner bit into hardwood, worrying about shifting the clamped jig in the process.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Todd. Yes, I checked the cams very carefully - as you know, they click into place, and they were definitely set the same. More to experiment with, I think - but not today! 😂👍👍

[@toddstrope157]

I also suspect there is a little bit of metric to imperial back to metric conversion/rounding problem happening with the design. I’ve never had any issues with Kreg stuff when it was strictly imperial based dimensions.

[@toddstrope157]

I double checked some of my test drilling’s with my jig, though The spacing was slightly off from what the hinges wanted, the squareness was not off like you demonstrated with yours. I find that the cams are a little finicky to set and use, but seem close enough. I think I’ll just have to adopt your technique for squaring and drilling the screw holes. Thanks again for your videos, I’ve learned a lot.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Todd Strope Thaks for that Todd! I agree with the metric/imperial thing too; we live in an imperfect world! 🤷‍♂️😂👍

[@brianmorris8045]

One of the best jigs I have used is the concealed jig. Like a lot of jigs, I borrow them, and if I like them I find where they are sold. The Kreg one I bought works like a dream. And the door handle, and the draw slider jigs save heaps of time. Old cabinet makers will say, "Ya should do it the old way". I have set up drawers and sliders the old way, and also done the concealed hinge thing the old way. I like it the Kreg, or any advanced tool way, much better. This is the 21st century I am told. But it pays to learn things the old way, and you'll then appreciate modern tools even more...lol, unless you want to be a 'luddite' for the rest of your life.

[@MrBishbashbosh2012]

Great little video, really easy to understand. I can’t afford a domino so have the kreg pocket hole jig, have you ever used it?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

I have a couple of the Kreg mini jigs. Don’t use many pocket holes, but they’ve work well 👍👍

[@chrischurch4551]

I have one I haven't used yet. Curious if mine had the mounting hole issue

[@alexanderturl]

The jig leaves the door inset 1.5mm because normally the holes a bored before edge banding.

[@Nathan-H]

Hi Peter, Just an observation......But...... by adding a 3mm spacer on top of your peice to be drilled under the depth stop, wouldn't that increase the depth of the drill but by a further 3mm?

[@Guusstoop]

The holes may have a little offset deliberately to release the pressure on the screws when the door is hanging (lean on the hinge, not the screw)?

[@duncannel819]

Hi Peter. I had the same problem with Grass hinges. I assumed it was because I was in South Africa and nothing here fits anything! Delighted to hear your hinges dont fit either.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Haha, thanks Duncan - I think! 😂😂👍👍

[@shootinblanks007]

Are the screw holes maybe for drilling the cabinet body??

[@williamdell5327]

Hi Peter, great video, thanks! Are the MDF screws you have linked on your website still accurate? Its 4x30mm screws which would seem a bit long

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks William. The Spax screws are listed under ‘other handy gear’ so not necessarily intended for use with the concealed hinges this jig is used for. And the link is to an amazon page where you can choose the size of screws you need - yes, 4x30 is the default, but use the drop-down menus to select your preference. I typically go with 4x16 or 3.5x16 depending on the size of door, thickness of material etc.. etc.. HTH P.

[@TheCampsicle]

Great vid as always. I’m interested in the large clear rafter style square you have there.. can you show is this?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! It’s a Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RTZ Haven’t talked about them specifically, other than to recommend them in the ‘gift ideas’ vids. Great squares & rulers, recommended! 👍👍

[@JimmeShelter]

@@10MinuteWorkshop www.etsy.com/shop/Mirockswoodshop

[@alan36753]

This looks just the job for me as I can't justify trading in my van for the Blum jig (that clogs up with mdf) but why do companies get lazy and sell the prototype? The two issues you brought up are both deal breakers for me and should have been sorted pre production. I've noticed lots of near identical jigs made by other manufacturers so I'll take a punt on one of those in the hope that they got their tooling more accurate. Thanks for yet another excellent video and a heads up on the Kreg faults!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! To be fair, checking the comments it's about 50/50 wether folks with this jig have the issues I had or not, but yes, I agree, with the premium that Kreg charge, they should be better than 50/50. 🤷‍♂️ 👍

[@honderinodunsi2884]

Hello Peter. I need some help with figuring out how far out I should drill me hinge hole if I want my doors 2mm less than the carcase width?