Hydroelectric Intake 3D Printed Coanda Screen Tiles

[@KrisHarbour]

I Just wanted to thank everyone in this comment section. It has been a fine example of a good community. Lots of good ideas that will likely be actioned. And i have not seen a single person call anyone an idiot :) Brilliant

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Hey Kris. I'm particularly enjoying this project as I just love hydro technology. I've never been ivlvoed in the tech side of designing them, but used to be involved in the planning and development of them (before I damaged my spine in a white water kayaking accident and life changed somewhat). It's just such a good technology, particularly for small scale personal sustainable use, like you're doing. Great to see you spending so much time getting it right! Anyhow, I make a lot of mechanical parts with 3D printing. It's a great tool and I'm really impressed with what you guys have come up with here. Couple of thoughts to take or leave: 1) if one of the 'fins' were to snap off and then get sucked down to the turbine, would it damage the pelton spoons? If so, do you need a secondary conventional screen or filter on the pipe just to stop anything bigger heading down the pipe? Similarly, the fins may flex a little in the middle and could possibly let some bigger detritus down, so maybe a secondary screen would mitigate that too? 2. You mentioned printing the final design as one piece. One of the limitations of 3D printing is some angles and arrangements aren't so easy to print or don't print do well. The really smooth finish of the top of each fins looks great and you mentioned it helps the water to shed and to shear. If you print those as one whole part and those fins are set at an angle, it may not be possible to get such good, smooth surfaces. It might not be a problem, but it could be depending how important a really smooth surface is, so could be a trade off against winter water ingresss and freeze/thaw. Not sure what might be a bigger risk? Just mentioning incase it's of help. May well be that you've got it all in hand already, in which case just ignore me! A' the best for the Scottish Highlands. Keep up the great work 😊👍🏻 Edit: Forgot to say, PETG or ABS (or ASA) should work fairly well for this in Wales, but I'd avoid PLA.

[@BjornErikLarsen]

Hi, Thanks for your input! I can hear that you are an experienced 3d printing guy. Printing strategy is always a challenge especially when printing slopes and avoiding supports. I have tried to print the tiles the other way around and the surface is more rough as expected. It does not seem like it hinders the coanda effect much. I will do some real measurements of the actual flow to see the difference. I am mostly printing ABS by the way :-) I have a friend that starts to be quite experienced with PETG and that seems to be a very interesting material indeed...

[@wolfe1970]

You are far from a idiot, and anyone who calls you one is just a troll looking for a rise, ive watched most of your video and you can put your hand to anything you touch, not many are gifted with those skills, look forward to future projects.

[@houwant]

Agreed! This is the way a community should work...

[@StrathpefferJunction]

@@BjornErikLarsen I've pretty much stopped using ABS now as PETG is easier to print and, other than for small detail parts, gets much closer to ABS than PLA. It's definitely worth playing with and having a shot. Where I do still need the properties of ABS, I now use ASA. It suffers from less shrinkage, but you get the same strength and heat resistance. I used to use ABS a lot, but once I sold my enclosed printers I began looking for alternatives. Between PETG and ASA, I have most bases covered. I tend only to use PLA for things that need to look good or for Christmas presents! Anyhow, I'm sure you'll have this all in hand, but just wanted to mention those thoughts in case they might be of help. All the best!

[@houwant]

The leading and trailing edges should have "Z" joint so they lock together. Only would need two screws per tile or even LESS!! You you could probably even skip tiles and have some tiles that don't have any drill holes at all. Gravity and water pressure would be your friend. Waffling would be the only issue with extremely high water flow but I doubt that that would happen. The foil will pressure the plates down as well.

[@telinoz1975]

Yep, beat me to it.

[@alex4alexn]

great idea, and with less fasteners, that is more surface area for water collection, this version looks amazing, but imagine if there were no screws and went into a frame and all that water running down those screw pieces was going in and not being lost. Really excited to see how this evolves, Kris has done an amazing job finding his 3D printer friend....does the printer friend have a youtube channel by any chance?

[@lizdg3892]

The water diverter plates are brilliant. Thank you so much for breaking down how your system works. I'm sharing with my son. He'd love this.

[@ElgarL]

I'd suggest do away with the screws to fasten the filters. Too fiddly and too many parts. Instead, replace the bars they are resting on with i-bars (similar to an i-beam), then the filters can all insert from the bottom and slide up into place. All the filters would be held in place with a single bar at the bottom, secured on the two sides. You could even have the locking bar pivot upwards to release the filters for easy replacement/cleaning (think of the game "connect four" and how you release the counters when the game is over).

[@qshed]

I was thinking some dove tails one male and female each side they would then key to each other in any orientation you just need to fix some top or side bars to hold it all together.

[@jayt9882]

I just paused the vid to come and suggest pretty well the same thing... :) would provide a much smoother surface too

[@ryancook5217]

@@jayt9882 On the big ones the upstream end has a t-bar that slides below the accellerator positioning the leading wires and preventing uplift.

[@Andrei_29_Ak]

☝️💪🙃

[@landryhc]

If you slide them in from the top with an lip at the lower end, the top can be clamped under the accelerator bar. Makes removal for cleaning easier.

[@1971bovibovi]

Great video, I was looking longingly at the water in your damn, a quick dip right now is what I need

[@milliebanks7209]

This is the first application that I have seen the use of an Allen Wrench outside it being included with an item I have ordered. Good job in showing the Allen does have a multiple use! Thanks!

[@shawnswc2539]

You're KZbin videos are really nice all of watching how well you do this whole hydro electricity. I was sharing the best way for you to get the bolts in place without too many difficults of rapping it down is welding those bolts in place so all you have to do is add the screws in and I'm tightening it down on its own

[@lint2023]

Floating debris barrier. Google that for ideas and an alteration of these may keep debris from your outlet. Water flows under the barrier to the area for your outlet. Debris is captured by the barrier on the pond surface. With a much larger area under the surface of the water than the outlet area in the wall, the flow is much slower than at your outlet in the wall so debris is not drawn down under the surface and into the outlet. This could be a plank across the pond. It could be sheet metal that has a few inches above the water and more "height" below the water and forms a semicircle around your water outlet. It could be a floating boom like you see if you google "floating debris barrier". I believe this would stop most of the debris and only occasionally need cleaning. Give it some thought. Lets have your community debunk or add to this idea. It might have value.

[@thobiex]

I think that would work. I know they use a simple debris barrier made of linked logs near a dam next to a canal lock where i live and it seems to do the job.

[@GonzoDonzo]

Shoot u may as well do an entire cover that even goes down below the depth it freezes and insulate it. Then theres no chance of floating debris or things falling on it and if it flows throughout the winter it would prevent icing

[@andrewallason4530]

A semicircle arc of steel rod, mounted on the top of the weir, with vertical rods, about 10cm apart, about 1/2metre from the spillway. Will need regular clearing whatever you do.

[@simonr6793]

Chris this is one of those projects that I just can't wait to see the next episode, looking forward to seeing the results!👍🇬🇧

[@Pixelplanet5]

for the V shape you could also have an extra part that you secure with the same bolts that hold these things down. that way you can also play around easily with different shapes and sizes without always printing new plates.

[@pcmiller2710]

I remember when you first started your channel, and I find it amazing how much you have learned and grown in knowledge!

[@wieheisstder5461]

I think it could be better to not use screws anyway, maybe just built a frame around it with a rail where you can slide them in and fix them with the top and bottom screws on the frame. 🤔 Could send you a quick drawing if you want? PS: Man, because of that kind of stuff i love the internet: When people reach out and just do good stuff!

[@KrisHarbour]

Yeah thats a nice idea. If they all interlocked just the edges held down would be fine. Thanks

[@dronegirl2024]

@@KrisHarbour I would of said the same as then if you need to do anything you dont need to refit the bolts while its in place and try to fit them when its raining wont be fun.. but no reason why you cant do 2 files so you can choose to print with or without holes in the final design..

[@PR_96]

​@@KrisHarbour Change the 3d print design. Put square pegs protruding from the mesh "cells" corners. Then make a frame bracket like Wieheisstder said, with square holes cut in it, and interlock all mesh "cells" together perfectly, no screws, nothing sticking out the top. Fix the frame bracket to the body of the intake thing, you have plenty attachment points.

[@AdamKalbasz]

Some sort of retention frame with neo magnets for tool less removal?

[@prydzen]

@@AdamKalbasz thats called over engineering, bruh.

[@jcpoole76]

Great video. I am a middle school technology teacher and love to be able to show my students useful collaboration with technology.

[@johnhenderson8360]

I really like your videos on your hydro system and your continuous improvements to the system. For what is worth, I'd like to make a suggestion. On the upstream side of your spillway, add a semi circle of 1/2 ' wire screening that would be positioned above the spillway and curve around to either side of your spillway and fasten to your dam. It would be about as high as the dam and reach the bottom of the water depth. This would keep any floating debris from ever reaching your spillway and yet would not interfere with the water flow, as the water would still flow below the debris buildup on the surface and over your spillway. I hope you understand my explanation.

[@kenleach2516]

Just lovely seeing what you are others are developing! Simple and smart hydro for all! Great work Kris

[@alexandrevaliquette1941]

21:11 Suggestion for better self cleaning in low flow: Consider there are 3 "channels" on the grill: left, center and right. If you put some light flow restriction just above the left and middle channel, it will concentrate the flow on the right channel. To do do so, just put a 1cm thick plank on 2/3 length on your red wood channel. You can put another 1cm thick plank on the left side side as well. You now have a ultra low flow concentrated on the right channel. If the flow is slightly more, it will go on the right + middle channel. Finally, if the flow is even higher, the 3 channels will be irrigated. Let me know if it's to confusing! Hope it will make your cleaning easier. Alex from Montréal, Canada

[@LaverLamont]

Maybe just have a frame to go over the top of the tiles to hold them down without any bolts into the tiles. Or, once the final design is complete, just glue the tiles together into one big tile.

[@winterburan]

Great solution, perfect for this installation ! The coanda filters self-clean with excess water flow and with the dirt that accumulates and in turn pushes down the previous one, they recommend having positive and not negative pressure with suction, usually they use a much larger diameter for a few meters of the water pipe in order to slow down the flow to a minimum in the water intake, I understand that you must try to use all the water possible and at the same time maintain a good level in the tank in order to have an excellent level and pressure and not losing water is not easy but as a first result it seems excellent to me, something always stops, in some plants with coanda filters they have problems with sunlight and algae and moss that accumulates and obstructs the slits. Good job ! Ciao

[@meditationwithjake]

Thanks Kris, calm meditative videos.

[@TyroneNorman-j2i]

Yes agreed with Elgarl, do away with the screws great suggestion. A great channel and very informative as well as educational.

[@Sqtgdog]

I think a printed flow plate the same width of each tile could serve several purposes. It would match up perfectly with tiles, condition the water for laminar flow, could have the water diversion angles built in, all while being easy to replicate and expandable just like the tiles. I would assemble the tiles from the bottom up. This would be easier to assemble, and let you reduce the number of bolts on every tile, as the printed flow plates could be installed last and secure everything in place. Love this idea. This is exactly what 3d printing is for. I hope you guys can get a good product figured out, and maybe even turn this into a business.

[@Chr.U.Cas1622]

Dear Kris Harbour. 👍👌👏 Sir, again I learned something new from you respectively your channel (never heard of Coanda before). Actually I wanted to suggest better/different mounting options but some viewers already did. 2) Good to see that your back seems better. 3) The ads before this video was about "barkskin". I think that's a kind of funny coincidence. 😁 Thanks a lot for making teaching recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards luck and health.

[@matsgustavsson665]

Whenever I need to drill several holes that needs to be exactly positioned I make a template out of plywood to guide the drill.

[@JoneKone]

or put tape on and mark with a pen...

[@matsgustavsson665]

Nah, you put the things your going to mount on the template and drill the holes in it. The holes gets perfectly positioned and no measuring needed..

[@deepfried4185]

Mats Gustavsson don’t need to measure or make a reusable plywood template to just lay some tape down and mark it with a pen through your mounting holes.... common sense.

[@vihnu]

Calm down gentlemen, both of the proposed ways do work. And each of them has its place in the work.

[@dunka12]

Amazing, probably Coanda never thought about his work being used in this manner. This is cool.

[@jeanninespinner2244]

Find it very interesting, how simple it is if you just understand and I believe you explain it very well, Thank you!!!

[@mx96288]

literally just checked your feed. new hydro stuff, awesome

[@BR-pz7lx]

Same here😂

[@EricOnYouTube]

lol,.... I read 'feet' instead of feed. :)

[@mx96288]

to each his own lol

[@josephkrug8579]

I am really enjoying this series of videos, thanks for sharing the process. :)

[@JaredEagles]

I love reading the comments section of these videos. So many fantastic and helpful hints.

[@BjornErikLarsen]

Totally agree! It is a lot of smart and experienced folks out there :-)

[@pottingshedgene]

What a superbly interesting video showing a genius at work. Brilliant.

[@marygordon3032]

Awesome Kris, great video! 👍👍👍💯💯💯

[@bdude92]

Love love love the hydro update vids!! Keep them come Kris!

[@maryblaylock6545]

Such a large amount of information coming from all sides! Very cool that someone wants to work with you to help improve your system. I wish you the best of luck on all that! Cheers!!

[@SeanHodgins]

Very cool, I could see the material changed to stainless triangular rods to span the whole width. Maybe even a variable angle system that can increase and decrease depending on water volume and cleaning need.

[@tomscott3827]

I noticed you still had some issues with leaves catching on your intake even after you installed the coanda screen. In order to prevent most leaves getting to the outlet Could I suggest that you install some sort of floating barrage in the pond across the width of the outlet and about 1m from the dam wall to intercept any floating debris whilst still allowing "clear" water to flow under the barrage and over the weir. This barrage could be shaped to direct any floating debris towards the overflow notch and presumably during periods of high flow when the overflow was activated, the floating leaves caught behind the barrage would go over the overflow. If the idea of a floating barrage doesn't suit then a fixed barrage, again in front of the outlet weir, braced of the dam wall, could work assuming the level of the top of the barrage was set say 30mm or so above the level of the weir, and the underside set say 100mm below the weir level. Then during low or medium flow the leaves would be caught behind the barrage and clear water would flow under it. During high flow when the pond levels were up, the barrage would be overtopped and any leaves caught would flow over the weir, presumably being swept away by the high flow going over the weir at that time. - Just some thoughts with my Civil Engineer hat on!

[@dorianleclair7390]

Yes dams in my area use a string of logs to block debri going into the intakes.

[@bloodknottrevelian3396]

If you incorporate the half joint rebate on the top rail of each screen to fit under the top trim as you suggested and also put a corresponding half lap rebate on the bottom rail for the bottom row of screens to slip under you could probably reduce the number of fixings required by 50%. I would suggest that the single side rail fixing be positioned 1/3rd of the screen height up from the bottom rail as your starter for ten. Looking forward to developments. Keep up the excellent videos and keep safe.

[@redechelon37]

the tweaking/engineering/improvement makes great content.. your other vids too though.

[@johnstrang2137]

GENIUS !! Great job. Please keep it up. I'm hoping to fit a micro hydro at my brothers house soon. I really value your efforts and input. John S

[@pjoutdoorservices775]

I always wondered what you were talking about when you mentioned coanda screens in previous videos. Brilliant idea though and great it potentially will be open source. Thanks for the content buddy! 😁

[@TheRealMcJack]

not checked through if someone has already suggested, but maybe having lap profiles on the sides of the plates, could reduce your 2x 30mm “water slides” down the middle to say 15mm? the plates sized as they are then wouldn’t fit the square so would be bigger, slightly stronger wedges... my other first thought was instead of individual plates that you can bolt together (handy for making universal) your best bet would be a full 1 piece plate, would have stronger wedges as could be bigger and then would reduce to only 4/6 countersunk fixings around the outside edge, and would completely stop the “water slides” and the bolt profiles catching things... that’s if a plate that size could be printed, and would be bespoke and tailored not suitable for a universal download. love how you just smash em on and road test them on your home system! good lad! always an interesting watch kris, enjoy your weekend mate

[@reggiep75]

11:10 - When I saw this part of the video I thought it would be really beneficial to have a removable steel frame (for the tiles) you could slot in/out, whenever you needed to, for changing or cleaning tiles. The side/bottom edges could use steel or aluminium L-section and you could secure the frame on the top side with bolts, that would bolt into welded nuts to go under the lip of the section of white pipe. I don't know whether you've already considered that and chose your current plan but being able to slot in & slot out a tile frame would've been my plan. Slots and grooves for the tiles would be a good plan too to ensure they fitted perfectly.

[@BjornErikLarsen]

That is a very good idea!

[@jigold22571]

Absolutely Awesome, Thank You for sharing.

[@Crewsy]

The overlap that you mentioned for the upper tile to hold the lower tile could also be your way of holding the upper tile under the acceleration plate. You could go one step further and add the same Z flange to the sides so the right tile overlaps the one to its left (or vice versa) and conceivably only use one screw to hold each tile in place.

[@CaptKirk1701]

You need a stand pipe in the water about 2 inches below the water surface with a screen dome over the top. This will give you so much more head pressure, and allow leaves to be washed off when the dam overflows.

[@tomvarley4344]

If you use the water falling after the filter to drive a small paddle drive, this rotary movement could be used to drive a helical brush placed in front of the sleeper to capture debris and draw it away from the weir.

[@SceneArtisan]

Kris, just an idea,. have you thought about creating a private outdoor bath with your waterfall? Ok, so maybe heating the water would be all but impossible, (so, no hot-water bath like a Japanese Onsen), but if you like cold-water baths, it'd be a great idea IMHO. Some careful and creative stone landscaping, pools, a small roof perhaps, walkways, retaining walls, a clean and flat clothing storage area, a roofed, dry, rest/changing area (for when it's raining and you're wanting to get warm n dry or read a book etc) and maybe even a small, sun-powered, sauna room or something. :)

[@KrisHarbour]

It would be a lovely spot for sure and i can picture what you mean and it would be lovely. i just dont think that the amount of time you could spend in there due to the cold would make it worth it. it would be a plunge and that about it. Its very cold water even in the summer. The summer flow is mostly spring water from about a mile away so it is cold!

[@prydzen]

@@KrisHarbour You can gain some warmth by routing the water underground through pipes. There should be a few videos on youtube how they do it for their pond.

[@gazza2963]

Those sleepers are treated!! :) Watched with great care, you got my brain going, so jumped on here just like the masses to comment, i think, you should, i would!! is great to see your channel subs commenting like AVE's :) I think uncle Bumble F*** should get on his CNC machine and help you out too. You got some great ideas posted so i wont add mine as it will put them all to shame 🙊 (NOT) one observation, i think the higher water flow in the winter will flex the fins to much, maybe think of a support on the inside of each panel. Stay safe buddy, hi to Dot x

[@Crewsy]

Finally someone was “brave” enough to mention the treated sleepers. 🤣😂🤣😂 Hopefully we get to see you back helping Kris once again Gaz. The two of you worked very well together.

[@lancedaniels]

Thanks for posting and sharing. Really impressed with this hydro electric set up. Thanks

[@coandageorge1488]

It's good to know that the research of my great relative it's been used in such different applications although the goal was to build the world's first jet engine . Which resulted in the flight of the first jet plane in the world that my relative built and piloted in France in 1910 .

[@luissamouco2518]

Nice one! You could add like something to cover the screws with a shape like (^) to make the water go to the sides! Great project! Keep going

[@cotswolddan7816]

Looking forward to seeing the STLs for these and seeing if I can help produce these for people like yourselves!

[@harryw5468]

I don't usually comment, but this was a really interesting video. Thanks Kris

[@MrFallAngel]

If you are wanting countersunk screw holes I suggest allowing the material to be thicker, like raising your whole surface to allow thicker materials.

[@ryansellar9149]

Depending on the type of plastic you could glue or solvent weld them together to save bolts and holes

[@loz11968]

A couple of “V” s inverted above the top screws could be superglued on to your existing ones to see the effect maybe 5mm to deflect the water past screw heads as a test but looks good so far we’ll done guys and thanks for the update

[@szkoclaw]

There are special drill bits for ss, usually cobalt steel. They are expensive but will last you long if you keep it for ss only. Normal hss bits aren't up to the task and they can introduce galvanic impurities into the steel and cause it to corrode faster.

[@andrewcraig6578]

Chris, if you would like to stop all the floating stuff like sticks and leaves from going down your sluice, I think you could do it by using the same principle as oil spill booms that float on the surface. I would suggest using something like a 4x2 timber fitted on end, going across and fixed on both sides of your pond, so nothing can get past the ends, as its a constant hight of water, fitted half in and half out of it, if that makes sense. I bet you could even fit the timber at as close to 45 DEGs across the water flow direction as you can, and all it catches would end up on the downstream end on one bank or other as you desire. Just a thought which may be worth a try. Good luck.

[@aleksandarg8642]

Maybe a sight glass on the side for inspection? Great work mate with everything. God bless ya

[@18robsmith]

The 3d printed screens are good for proof of concept. They obviously need a few tweaks, but once sorted should be a very good, cost effective alternative to the currently available ones.

[@colin8532]

If you asked him to redesign it so that it could be adjusted to custom length and width, that would be awesome. Also, then he could adjust it to remove the supports that are used to bolt the plates on top, and add the supports under the slats by using a triangle shape. Awesome initial design, can't wait to see the next version too

[@BjornErikLarsen]

I will make a parameterized model that can be tweaked with many parameters in case you have a larger printer that can print larger tiles. Both the angle and number of wedges, width can be configured before printing it... But this will be done when the reasearch has ended up with a design we are satisfied with...

[@colin8532]

@@BjornErikLarsen - Can't wait to see the end results. Very cool stuff

[@JohnMcF1967]

Hi Kris, I usually use Cobalt HSS Drill Bits for Stainless Steel. Don't know if you've heard of them. They're spot on for that kind of drilling. Screwfix sells them , probably Amazon too.

[@blumperjoe8920]

Great, thanks for the update, really interesting and great explanations. Can't wait for the improvements and next video.

[@waynegardner3289]

You should build a frame that the tiles slide into. Then you can use 4 bolts to attach the frame on to the top of the box, making it east to remove to clean or work on. By making the tiles able to slide into the frame you will no longer have drill holes. This will also reduce cracking due to expansion and contraction with weather change.

[@drbrono]

To prevent much of the debris getting to your intake, couldn't you place a barrier from one end of the intake to the other end and below water level. The only water going over the intake would have to come up from under the barrier and nearly all the debris would be kept behind the barrier. This would be similar to the baffle in a septic tank that keeps the floating solids from clogging up the leech field.

[@zephyrold2478]

Realy interesting project. To get the water to spread out more uniformly over the grates ( it seems that only 60% of the screens are covered with water) you could have vertical vanes (mounted on the wood) guiding the water, maby even 2 thicker ones where the screens are next to eachother. Maby a better ide is to have the screens tilted to the sides (the middle one the highest). A tip for drills and taps, use Cobalt HSSCo/HSSE 5 or 8 % drills and taps, will make your drilling and tapping muck easier. For cutting oil you can use Castor oil. When drilling use fair amount of downforce and low rpms, high rpms and low force will produce heat and burn your bit even if it is HSSCo bits.

[@marcheynderickx7985]

Kris, you mention sludge in the bottom of the intake. You might consider adding 2x1" pipe fittings/plugs under the height of your intake tube for clean out in each corner. That way you just unscrew the plug and let it wash out.

[@wolfe1970]

Look forward to future design improvements, like reduce water loss on the parts that doesn't have the grill, and reduced bolts needed to fix it down, Personally i thing a complete design for the top, including the water speed ramp could be in the design, looks good for the start though.

[@TheMunkarp]

How about rivnuts in the plastic from the underside. That way you wont have any bolts or anything on the top.

[@jameswhittington4779]

Very interesting, I have a pretty large 3D printer up to 610 MM square. I look forward to seeing the files available, that would be fun to play with..

[@martinwinfield2935]

Great to see this, I would suggest that one big screen will let more water through. The two new support bars and the frame round each filter will restrict the flow of water.

[@KrisHarbour]

Yeah but the trouble is most 3d printers cant print stuff that size so the design is taking that in to acount and making these able to accommodate most 3d printers and most intakes by being modular.

[@neilgelinas9926]

I think the tiles could be designed to fit together like puzzle pieces. The screw mounts could be deleted. In the middle sections. The top could be improved by instetting the top race. The whole screen could be held in by a bar on the bottom.

[@udos46]

hello my experience I made with a round stainless steel sink with a 3 mm stainless steel net on top and arranged with a few degrees inclined towards the overflow outlet I let the water in with a pipe placed laterally, so that when it enters the basin, it starts to rotate before starting in the pipe (with deflector plates, avoid the formation of the vortex that takes in air) the dirt above the retina stops short, having the mass of water spinning underneath I'm not saying that it is self-cleaning, but it remains fairly clean here in the high mountains we have long grass. thin and very hard that passes the grids and clogs the turbine injectors ditto with the pine needles, which their size pass the filter, but I find them stuck to the outlet jet, which in addition to reducing the flow rate, the water brush is deflected and does not hit the center of the pelton spoon NB my English is made with google and I hope that the reader can understand what I mean

[@Crewsy]

Your English translation was done very well. Surprising for Google to do that well. I’m sure it only did so well based on the language you translated from and the actual words you used. Too often the literal translation of some languages leaves a very puzzling English translation.

[@WhiskeyGulf71]

Drill & tap your supports on the pillar drill & tap every hole, that way you can remove & replace one screen at a time without taking any others out. Easy fix for the mounting strips is to have a deflector above each row of bolts, a plough shaped V should do it. Lastly i wouldn't be happy with the amount of lost water when flow is at a minimum, you want all of that water. Have you considered having an in-line header tank ? Using an electronic control valve & a level sensor you could close the pipe when the tank is low & have it reopen when the tank is full again, this will keep your pipe full at all times. If you used something like a water butt or an old galvanised water tank for a header tank it could also act as a sediment trap.

[@jamesrodrigues7391]

Yore may be able to change to counter-sunk self tappers or use a glue or pop rivets this could replace the bolts . and thanks for the video Kris

[@chrischristenson4547]

A design thought. Most of the detritus that fouls the screen comes floating down. What happens if you put an underflow weir in front of the flow channel to stop the debris from getting to the flow channel you would still have to clean the leaves out of the up stream pond

[@revnook]

Put the screen over the slats. The water that does not immediately go through the slats will push up and slightly back through the screen (provided there is a minuscule gap between them) and push the garbage down and off.

[@piercet]

If I were building this I would use a piece of T profile to clamp them down from the top, and have the entire assembly as a removable frame. Definitly wedge shaped diverters above the non perforated section and on either side. I would also consider placing a floating debris boom in an arc above the intake, anchored to the bottom of the stream and the bank and curved to divert leaves and sticks to the side, possibly to a very shallow debris spillway.

[@kyledelange7055]

You could put a screen underneath the tiles to catch any small bits of grass that make it through.

[@goldmagnet9013]

Mega job, screens are a weak link in many systems, great to see some open source research being done. Cant wait to implement these in my intake. Please publish a short update video Kris, when you have some decent flow..

[@othoapproto9603]

I think where the tube is connected to the box should be conical. That is to say, the junction is to abrupt from box to hose. Make is tapered.

[@geoffreykail9129]

neat device. If You put a strip of SS down the joints welded to a bottom stop. You could install them with top capture only and not need the bolts at all.

[@pythonicinertia7881]

Super interesting video Kris. Thanks for the content :)

[@asustainablejunglewayoflife]

Looks Great, Nice concept. be cool to see a secondary manifold to catch the run off, from the screens. excellent. work.

[@shaunsalter450]

I'd suggest tessellation or at least castellation of the tiles so they can fit seamlesssly across with a reduced width and only a single line of bolts. A parrallelagram profile so the top tiles can slip under the accelerator plate. Don't worry about countersinking, those cap heads are on null mounting space so flow across that should be blocked not streamlined. At worst they divert flow onto the coanda ribs, and diverter ridges above those holes would only help. Fascinating idea.

[@cesarfranco2888]

have been observing your difficulty in capturing clean water. I would like to suggest a second covered box with an air intake that is at the level of the dam. It communicates with the dam with an inverted U, capturing water below the surface of the dam. This box with the highest edges on the sides overflows to a specific location that falls into your current collection box.

[@cesarfranco2888]

Your solution is to capture clean water and not try to clean it afterwards.

[@DevlinFoster]

I agree, a rail system would be simpler to install and perform maintainance. Any thoughts on having the wedges run vertical? I think it would help with washing of the leaves.

[@TheWolfster001]

Designing them to lock together side by said as end to end would help to reduce the screws too.. Also making a new catch basin with a removable access panel in the back that is against the rock when in use would make it very easy for maintenance.. You could put a flush head screw (bolts) in and use nylon nuts to hold them down...

[@simondalling7489]

To get hole to line up, Use sharp punch to make a mark for the drill to find the centre of the hole

[@joshuahasson9687]

Please know that I have ZERO experience in this area but one suggestion would be to overlap the sides of the tiles (not the tops & bottoms like you mentioned). That way you would have 4 less holes on the middle two fixation points. Think opposing half lap joints on the tiles. Just a thought.

[@KrisHarbour]

Nice idea. :)

[@ssxxiii]

I just started watching those videos so haven't seen the final shape yet. I would add some kind of a cover on top to protect those tiles from falling branches, etc...

[@antonymification212]

Thanks as ever for sharing your knowledge and wisdom, you are a wealth of information and are taking a lot of guesswork out of my hydro build. Any more information on Bjorn and weather his plans are available... Happy to make a donation.

[@TrueStrike0_0]

FINALLY ive been waiting for another vid

[@StuartPittaway]

Remove the holes completely from the 3d parts and use some type of clamping T bar to hold them in place. Looks great.

[@DieselDahl]

I was thinking if it would work to make the sides (the part where the screws go through) (much) taller (maybe as much as 30-60 mm) so the sides acts as guides (side walls) for the water so all of it is forced to flow over the screen area. If top the sides are well above the water level (that flows over the screen) you don't need to worry about countersinking the screws, or if you decide to countersink them anyway there is a lot more "meat" to allow for countersinking them. The end of the "walls" facing the inlet could be radiused (seen from above) to reduce turbulence around the inlet, or install matching guide walls on the acceleration plate (and the walls should probably radiused on the end facing the intake).

[@sffpv9671]

Really interesting video as usual Kris. Maybe already said in the comments but maybe you could add a mesh screen at the top of the filters to stop debris getting trapped? just an idea. Cheers

[@maritzm]

Been waiting for this one!! Great video and very interesting... I think a removable coanada frame would be better. A lip on the centre tiles so you can overlap and use 1 screw for 2 tiles... You attach the tiles and then install the frame... a suggestion ;)

[@PeteBrooker]

Have you considered doing away with bolts all together, drill a series of small holes in the rear and glueing in neodymium magnets? This would leave the front entirely smooth and hole free :)

[@Jason-zp4ly]

If you stick with screwing the screens down you could stagger the rows. That way the next lower row would catch the water running down the solid screw line.

[@bluestreak101]

What about not using any holes in the plates and use some kind of retention bar/plate that locks at the bottom and covers the space between the plates. On your intake you could get away with maybe only the 2 bolts then. Then on the sides have a C channel that the plates slot in.

[@robertgreen7593]

I was thinking, would it be better if the screen had a chevron configuration. You would have to tinker with the angle on the blades somehow, but if the blades/slats were angled down and outwards from the center (or maybe inward to get hit by better water flow - could try both and experiment) it might stop the debris getting stuck. Of course it could make it worse.

[@apsolltd]

Hi Kris, as a water treatment engineer I wonder why you do not use a parabolic screen with stainless wedge wire. We use these screens exclusively to separate solids from effluent streams. Regards David