KSGER T12 & 858D Station Follow Up & Questions Answered

After reviewing the KSGER T12 & 858D soldering & hot air rework stations, I've been getting several reoccurring questions & comments. Lets take these one at a time to help you decide if getting one, or both of these low cost, yet function rich soldering tools is worthwhile.
Video & Product Links Below...
1. KSGER T12 Soldering Station Video Review:
• KSGER T12 Review - The...
2. KSGER T12 V3.1S Soldering Station:
amzn.to/40CiFVS
3. KSGER T12 V2.1S Soldering Station (Still my #1 choice):
amzn.to/3KsPkYg
4. T12 10 Tip Set:
www.banggood.com/custlink/GKD...
5. T12 DIY Tip Stand Video:
• T12 Solder Tip Stand -...
6. FG-100 Solder Tip Temperature Meter:
www.banggood.com/custlink/m3G...
7. KSGER T12 Soldering Station Review on my Website:
www.rchelicopterfun.com/t12-s...
8. KSGER 858D SMD Hot Air Station Video Review:
• KSGER 858D Hot Air Rew...
9. KSGER T12 Easy Safety Mods Video:
• KSGER T12 Mod To Impro...
10. KSGER 858D Station Modification Video:
• KSGER Hot Air Station ...
11. KSGER 858D Ordering Information:
www.banggood.com/custlink/vDG...
12. Bench Top Power Supply Shown in Video is the Riden RD6006:
www.banggood.com/custlink/vvD...
Video Chapter Time Index:
- Intro 0:00
- My power switch on back workaround 1:50
- Simple SMD rework demo 3:24
- Ksger T12 solder station follow up questions 5:13
- Iron update fitment question 5:55
- Cheap cleaning sponge solution 7:08
- T12 tip follow up discussion 7:43
- FG-100 tip temp sensor meter tool 8:18
- T12 power switch update 8:50
- T12 Case grounding 10:00
- T12 Circuit board isolation issue 10:41
- Ksger solder station vs. Weller quality comparison 12:13
- Conclusion 13:56
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting RCHelicopterFun.com & my channel which helps me keep creating content.
Please consider giving a thumbs up & subscribe if you enjoy my content - thank you & thanks for watching :)

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Ordering Information for the KSGER T12 Soldering Station: amzn.to/40CiFVS Ordering Information for the KSGER 858D Hot Air Rework Station: www.banggood.com/custlink/vDGmnbcsg4 KSGER video links and more product links in the description. April 2023 Update. My T12 soldering stations and the 858D hot air rework station continue to work well. Still very impressed and happy with KSGER.

[@ImranMachher]

Could you possibly make a video or link one that shows how to make that switch box please? I don't know why but I just can't get my head round it

[@Rchelicopterfun]

@@ImranMachher Best not to attempt to build one then if you don't understand the basic principles of 120V switching methods.

[@ImranMachher]

@@Rchelicopterfun Amy suggestions what I should study first to get where I need to be?

[@olafschermann1592]

Thank you for mentioning the dangerous parts and showing us ways to fix them.

[@LemonPuf]

Glad I watched this before purchase

[@arthurdent8091]

Very good review. You addressed a topic that needed much more coverage. From a lot of us out here ( I can't speak for all of us ), We thank you.

[@phillipbartlett1819]

I love mine. Had it for about a year now and glad we agree. Thanks for the tips on making it even better. So far I've replaced the caps with more reliable stuff. Now to get to work on some more improvements. Thanks

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Great to hear.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

I bought mine two years ago when I started my college electronics class. use it every day for projects in every class and at home for projects.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Glad to hear yours has been a great little workhorse too. 🙂

[@AlanDike]

Just got one off Amazon, still had the wand you have there. I would have gotten the aluminum one you're not fond of.. but it was a gift. I do use the aluminum wand you said was too tight. I pulled the silicon sleeve and cut it in half.. fixed the had to seat enough problem

[@kosgov]

I know this video is old but I just bought one of these soldering stations last week. Just letting you know they are now "Earth ground" they also removed the terminal for the light in the switch so you can't do that and they redid the PCB so that power lead is well away from that heat sink. But I love the soldering station . I was looking forward to tinkering with it but, there is no need to now. Lol!

[@johndee759]

Thank you for making this follow up video.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

My pleasure!

[@Johadart]

Awesome John, I’ve just ordered one of these, can’t wait till it arrives and I can start playing with it. 🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Hope you enjoy yours too 👍

[@SevenDeMagnus]

I have the Ksger T12 (sadly it's the old firmware but it's other favorite tool now) just yesterday and have tinned all 10 piece tips (per piece they are ridiculously expensive) thanks to sir John's review and have had the 858D, thank to sir Dave of EEVBlog, which I've had for 5 years I think (I used it for controlled toasting of bread and melting cheese as wll and removing address on packages for security, if I want to save the packaging, else I just cut the package sticker). It's nice my rig just costs less than US$100 and it's a huge upgrade when it comes to soldering compare to my Iroda which is great for portable soldering (roof, camping) though it has a blowtorch, hot knife and heat gun (will still be very useful). :-)

[@Mrcurlywhirly]

Thanks John, appreciate the detailed reviews. This KSGER equipment looks to be ideal for my intended purpose. I'm probably fortunate in the end that my multi purpose Yihua PS/rework station purchase fell through, individual units have always been my preference. The 'Chinese junk' comments are quite amusing, practically every household is loaded with Chinese equipment or components of one form or the other.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yes indeed 🙂

[@matmcpaul9060]

I was on the fence about replacing my Weller WLC-100 with one of these but, not now. That is really disapointing to see those wire nuts used on the Weller. Your reviews are great. Keep up the good work.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Thanks & glad it helped

[@jonyjunca]

Hello there, first of all thank you for all the reviews. I bought this to use mainly in electronics, and I bought it because of all the great feedback this station has, and now I'm a bit let down. Mine came with the new 907 handle, and I also bought the kit with all the tips, and after trying to use it a few times I came to the conclusion that it just lacks power. I've tried to work on several things, the last of which where a couple of SMD capacitors I was trying to remove, and I had this set on 350ºC, using the T12-JL02, and it felt like the solder wasn't even melting. And regarding the tips, I must say the one I was most looking for was the T12-JL02, and after applying solder to it I've noticed that actual tip on this does not hold solder, so basically when I apply the solder comes up a bit to the larger part which makes it difficult to work with this one. Well this is just a "cry for help" so to speak, because I do not know what to do and you guys might. Is the 907 iron just not worth it? Or am I missing something here?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

The handle type (the 907 or the 9501) have little to do with tip performance so I think you can safely eliminate that. What has to do with performance is vast in scope. Tip, station, quality of solder, quality of flux and of course the main one - technique. 1. Tips: Since you say this happens with all your T12 tips in the set, then we can likely rule out a faulty tip unless you got an entire bad set which seems very unlikely. Have you broken all the T12 tips in correctly by going through the calibration process? 2. Power: Next is lack of power, well I can assure you the KSGER T12 stations using the direct drive tips have LOADS of power. I can solder 8 AWG wire with my two T12 stations and with a 40mm D4 tip, they can even pump out enough to do 6 AWG with good technique and a little effort. If they can do 8 or 6AWG wire, they most certainly have the power to do a tiny SMD component. But you could always have a faulty station, unlikely but certainly possible. 3. Temperature / Calibration: You say you have come to the conclusion it lacks power, have you tested that conclusion with hard data to back it up? Have you checked the tip temperatures with a solder iron temp probe & have you calibrated the tips? 4. Tip Oxidation: If you've checked the temp & calibrated the tips and you know the tips are getting to the correct temp you are setting them to; solder not sticking to a tip is commonly caused by oxidation on the iron coating on the tip end. Have you cleaned your tips, both in flux and then a sponge (wet or brass) and clean them constantly while using them and tinning them to keep them "wet" and tinning again before putting them away? Cleaning the tips are one of the most important aspects of soldering since tip oxidation will most definitely prevent the solder from adhering to the tip and there will be little heat conduction between the tip and solder then. It's all but impossible to solder with an oxidized tip. 5. Quality of solder & flux: Are you using good electronics quality leaded solder with quality rosin flux in it such as Kester 44 60/40 or 63/37? Are you using extra flux as needed as the rosin flux boils/flashes off? Lots of variables that determine how good the soldering job is - or isn't and the station is only one component in the chain.

[@ianpaul6369]

Here in the UK I purchased the mini T12, so I could power it from my own 24V power supply. Great little station!

[@DciMaluko]

I think this is the safest option.

[@morbue7575]

i thaught about doing the same ..

[@sunriseshell]

Great Idea, I saw one of those and was confused by how small it was. I thought at first it was an unsafe copy. Didn't realize it was just missing the power circuit.

[@blazingmatty123]

I was recently in the market for an iron and i saw so many of those and for so cheap, glad I didn't grab one of those now lul, wasn't aware that they needed a separate 24v supply, ended up grabbing a proper ksger T12 on ebay yesterday for 40 quid

[@yonutz333]

Awesome follow-up, thanks

[@Rchelicopterfun]

You bet

[@LJoel]

Your comparison to the Weller. Well done. Great comparison

[@Rchelicopterfun]

👍🙂

[@matthewfletcher]

Thanks john, great guide for the T12. Loved your showing of the US station vs the chinese... funny to think how many people will turn their noses us at the chinese stuff

[@Drew7tv]

Nice setup sir, very informative i hope i had that setup too 😊

[@TheBird..]

I am very low budget so I will definitely get one

[@ozzymandius666]

One thing I like about some Chinese outfits is they build stuff to a price point, and its very cheap to mod the devices to a quality of something at a much higher price point over time. A hobbyist can sort of pull himself up by his bootsraps that way, often much more inexpensively than starting at a higher price point. The Creality Ender 3 3-d printers are much the same. I subscribed immediately after watching your KSGER unboxing and review video. Thanks, and I appreciate the great work.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yes, very true - good points :-)

[@Leif_YT]

Another thing I like is their style of service. Some people might prefer full replacements or having to send back their stuff, but as someone who does some hobby electronics, I highly appreciate the approach of many Chinese companies that rather help with finding the issue, deliver replacement parts or even providing some schematics. Whether it's my TS100, my 3d printer, Ruideng or some other things, I always got fantastic support when something broke, I searched for a single replacement part or something similar. Good luck on that with a western company ... at least here in Germany most big company support people have no idea at all about what they are talking about. They just go through their customer service "scripts", but can't really help with solving any kind of technical issue.

[@kjeldschouten-lebbing6260]

Precisely, most of the "high pricepoint" stuff is relatively cheap to fix: QA, A little wire here-and-there, etc. But those you can easily do yourself :)

[@ArchLinuxTux]

The more expensive stuff may have the same issues as the cheap Chinese stuff and more difficult to mod because they made it as small as possuble.

[@kurk1701a]

Thanks John thanks for the in depth tutorials on these units and how to fix their faults, it tipped me over the edge to get one . However the 1 fault I see with these units is the lack of a power cord,for with out a power cord they are just a paper weight. They really should come with a power cord. On the Chinese junk comment, Well open the back of your TV up and you will see Chinese parts,Sony parts,Phillips parts you can see where I'm going with this, a lot of the electronic equipment we buy is made in China, or Taiwan ,Korea, Asia So it isn't so much where it's made but how well it's made,and as you said to what price point it is made to. This determine's weather or not the item you purchase is a piece of junk or a quality product.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yep, I agree they should give that option. I see the reasoning behind not offering a power cord since these are universal voltage devices sold to all markets, so different plug types are required; but they could have a plug type option at checkout like some other devices have. Of course I know what would happen then, people wouldn't pay attention at checkout, order the wrong plug type, and then bitch about it and cause way more hassles than it's worth. So true about China stepping up its manufacturing quality game every year. They are following in the manufacturing success steps of Japan IMO. When I was just an ankle biter, made in Japan conjured up the exact same negative remarks. Will the "made in China" sticker have the same high value as "made in Japan" does today, and demand the price premium that goes hand in hand? I won't be at all surprised.

[@xOxsleepyheadxOx]

Please make a tutorial on how to make that power switch you use for turning on and off the KGSER. Im a newbie but id like to make it. Great reviews and tips I bought the soldering station because of your videos. More power.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No can do... Regional electrical codes and line voltage worldwide varies. Making line voltage projects like this requires a solid understanding of both the basics and the electrical code in your area. Take a basic electrical course in other words or get a copy of your regional electrical code book and study it.

[@travisfrostify]

thanks for the tips, as soon as mine arrives ill use my we1010na to fix it lol. much appreciated mi amigo. actually I have a question!!! can i use some 5 pin tweezers with this host?

[@antonharmacinski276]

I've had this unit soldering for at least 3 years and it's still getting me by.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yep, me too. Still working like a champ 🙂

[@jarchdm]

Thank you I bought one off your link. Hope you get some kickback

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Awesome thank you.

[@jarchdm]

I got it now. Very happy my first decent soldering iron.

[@ArchLinuxTux]

Are the case screws not long enough that u could wrap dome wire around it? as sn alternative to the screw in the middle of the back plat,

[@kurtdoney9259]

@ John Salt, I was curious about how you built your power switch boxes for your stations. I plan on doing a project like that here soon and would like some input. I will be building a self contained switchboard using an anodized aluminum box, 5x 15A rated 120V panel mount outlets, 5A fuse protection per output, lighted rockers rated for 15A 120V per output, and a 15A 120V fused power input to run the box. I will also make the housing fully grounded as well. I considered an isolation transformer from the input to run the output circuitry but I feel that may be a little overkill and not to mention bump the project price quite a bit since I'll need a low profile transformer. I will be running 2x KSGER solder stations, one hot air rework station and a DC power supply with one output left as a spare. Any advice you could give would be appreciated. I considered using standard residential switch boxes tied to outlets but I like the idea of a self contained unit a lot better.

[@ian1352]

Here on is normally when the lower part of the switch is pressed. All light switches and wall sockets work that way.

[@HiltonRalphs]

Presactly. 1 is on so when you press the rocker down it should switch on. Then press the 0 up to switch off. Seems correct out the factory. I'm in South Africa FWIW.

[@charliemiskelly7053]

Another great video John, I’ve ordered the t12 v3.12 after your recommendation. But I’m not getting along with it at all. It came with two tips the k tip and ILS which was no help as I’m using it for de soldering Xbox one controller joysticks. So I’ve ordered more tips and they’ve arrived and the soldering iron just doesn’t heat up enough and melt the solder, I’ve got it set to 320 degrees and still it doesn’t melt solder it melts it on the tip but doesn’t melt on board when I go to apply solder just sticks to the iron, I’ve even just ordered de soldering pump yihua 929d and that solders better than it. So there is something definitely wrong I’ve not calibrated it yet could that be the problem?

[@at906]

John, Thanks for these videos, but can you show how to clean these tips?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Same as cleaning any solder tip. Draw them through a damp cellulose sponge or a dry brass shavings sponge when the tip is at operating temp. My beginner's soldering page on my website has a section on tip cleaning along with a link to a good article on extending soldering tip life: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-soldering.html

[@TimStevens]

Hey John, thank you for the very detailed review, just ordered one myself. Any chance you could provide details of how you created that four-switch power toggle box? I've been looking to make something similar. Thanks!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I just wired like a normal 4 gang switch box. The hot in goes to each toggle switch, and then the hot hot out from each switch goes to its own isolated plug. All neutrals are shared.

[@TimStevens]

@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks, i'm trying to rig up a remote switch for a surge protector to flip off power for my sim racing equipment. I was hoping to avoid running the hot power into my button box and just remotely control the switch, but may be asking too much.

[@WunHeart]

Even safer would be a four relays and use a arduino to monitor the switch press.

[@TimDavis77]

Love this video and your initial KSGER T12 review. I just got one of these irons myself and am not worried about the case not being grounded. Do you have any tips on making the hole for the screw? What gauge wire did you use for that and the switch lamp? Also, it looked like you added back in a battery holder, or am I mistaken?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Drilled out the hold. 18 AWG is what I used. You could even go smaller, not like either will be passing much current.

[@kjeldschouten-lebbing6260]

Aluminium is rather soft, you can either use just about any metal drill bit or a step-drill-bit.

[@theluthiersworkshop9837]

Hi, I'm having soldering gun over heating issue, what have gone wrong?

[@briancampbell4310]

Hey John, i would like to know what brand is the benchtop power supply you have.?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

It's one of those new(ish) Riden RD6006 units: www.banggood.com/custlink/vvDDzi7IyB That link is to just the head display unit. Depending on how you want to power it, you can get your own PS and case for a very cost effective build. I just purchased the Riden Case and the recommended 60V switch mode power supply for mine. It's very easy to put together and a fun little project. Dave Jones (EEVblog) did a couple videos on it, and I knew after watching them, it was the bench top supply that would fill the requirements I had (higher voltage and current) to replace the old linear 2 channel bench top supply I had built back in college that topped out at 24V and 1A with no way to alter current output or monitor the outputs. This thing is such an improvement :)

[@brucestarr4438]

Thanks for the quick reply on the tip stand. If I buy one of these and want to do your mods for the light and ground, could I use the unit it's self to solder those wires. I don't have access to another soldering station to do it with. Also is the silver front model the same as this one? They look the same inside.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Thou shalt not EVER solder on live circuits - especially ones that are running at line voltage potential. No idea on the silver version.

[@brendanrandle]

if you had another suitable dc supply you could power the front board with that and work on the disconnected built in supply

[@GoranMilici]

I got the XINYIQI T12 from Amazon and it was around 60 dollars. Is that the same as this? I see this one is 30 on your link

[@TechGorilla1987]

This isn't really on topic, but a hot air gun is also great for removing stringing on 3D prints. Depending on my temps with PETG, I will get wispy strings. My hot air gun makes quick work of them.

[@Kobra31677]

How thick are the wires you have used John for the switch LED and grounding the case? Great video and many thanks

[@Rchelicopterfun]

@Kobra1977, The neon lamp draws very little current (0.1A or less) so you don't need big wire at all. I think I used 18AWG looking at the size of it in the video, but it could certainly be smaller. Grounding wire by code should be the same size as what the power cable uses. Again, I think I used 18AWG but don't quote me on that.

[@MassimoFantinato]

Did you have any floating temperature with clone t12 tips?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Not sure what you mean by "floating temperature" so I guess I didn't. They are all working great. One thing I did experience with every one of them when they were brand new/very first use, is every one of them had to go through some sort of initialization phase; perhaps as the PID algorithm did it's thing? The temp would hunt up & down with intermittent errors flashing on the display during this one minute or so initialization process. After that, they never did it again. I demo it near the end of the review I did on the T12 station. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3y0dGx9ariMf6s

[@johngodden5196]

I bought one after seeing your video because my 45-year-old Weller is pretty tired and useless and the Bakku I bought is a disappointment. I do agree that the power switch at the back is a pain but solved the problem in a very similar manner to you, I'm using a remote-controlled 4-way patch board. I find it interesting how the orientation of the power switch bothers Continental North Americans, that comment has been made in several KZbin videos. Here in Australia, the switch works normally or us. Anyway getting back on track, I have also earthed the case, more of a worry here with 240 volts. I had a look at the heatsink and quite frankly I don't see it as too much of a hazard, The are a lot of other exposed points on the board that would bite. It is in a secure case after all and unless you are competent I don't think you should be poking around in there anyway. as for the operation of the unit I reckon it's fantastic, you have all the control and information you would ever need. This and my TS100 are al I use now. I even use the K tip quite often, good for large pads or wire as it has reasonable thermal mass and is able to transfer that thermal mass well over a larger surface area. I think people try to use it like a hot knife which it's not designed for.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

All good points! 🙂

[@4lgor1thm]

Hi John, I also bought a Ksger T12, but the one I have has the right side of the heatsink raised up, not touching the mask of the circuit board. Also the controller is version 3.0 OLED. So in your opinion I should just ground the case to make it safe? Thanks!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

If the aluminium enclosure case isn't earth ground, I would definitely ground it to be safe - totally your call of course.

[@tonyd1149]

(Wow). Thank you. Mr. Salt, ¿is a unit like this too professional for a relative, (but not complete) novice, applied to general repairs of electronic/stereo gear, for instance. (And into the near future, for electronic projects)? (Also for upgrading from a plug-into-wall_AC style wand that Radio Shack sold, 25Watts, w/replaceable tips I currently own/use). Thank you.

[@DciMaluko]

Would you rather have this or a Ts100(or Ts80)? I was hoping that was one of the questions, sadly wasn't.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

That wasn't one of the questions because this is a KSGER follow up, not a Miniware follow up. Totally different tools as well. Robust bench top vs. fragile portable. Regardless & to answer your question, for what I need in a portable soldering tool, I would take the TS100 over the 80. I go over the reasons why in my detailed TS100 review: www.rchelicopterfun.com/ts100-soldering-iron.html

[@ronenen]

Would earthing the heatsink (in a similar way to what the video showed for the case) also solve the safety issue it causes, instead of the fix shown in the video?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Only if you want to ensure it's never at a voltage potential. Earthing it won't help isolate it from the PCB traces.

[@thegmkiller1967]

How do I get one of the 858d stations fixed. I had a pop sound then the gun turned on and blew extremely hot air. The unit was off when this happened. After that the gun began smoking and was red hot. I unplugged the handle and it shut down. Now I turn it on it says "error shut unit down"

[@Rchelicopterfun]

If you're an electronics' hobbyist, fix it yourself. Either by finding the faulty component/s & replacing it/them; or by purchasing either a new control board or heater handle, both of which are available separately from various sources (ebay, aliexpress, banggood, etc). If you are not an electronics' hobbyist, then you will have to find someone who is willing to have a look at it / fix it.

[@ChadwickYonHenryson]

Hi John, I purchased a KSGER T12 as well. I would like to improve the safety of my station. May I know how do I remove the heatsink?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

You have to desolder it from the board.

[@emmettturner9452]

What is the advantage of the FG-100 over the thermocouples you often receive with a multimeter?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Two primary & obvious ones: 1. The thermocouple on the FG is held elevated over a splatter plate so the solder tip easily rests on it with consistent pressure (=consistent readings) and flux & solder drips are of no issue. 2. The replaceable thermocouples on the FG are inexpensive and easy to replace as they slowly rot out from continued exposure to the molten solder and flux. Whereas a DMM thermocouple probe that rots out from continued submersion in molten solder will require the entire probe be replaced which often costs more than the entire FG-100. DMM thermal probes were after all never designed to be submersed in a blob of molten solder; may even affect their accuracy before they do rot out.

[@morbue7575]

if i go for the plastic case, do i need to worry at all about security with the ksger t12 ?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Not sure what you mean by plastic case? The KSGER T12 comes with an aluminum enclosure.

[@schneider1492]

the big question i had was could i get a t12 and use the hot air handle in it for shrink tube... this close up shows the plus look like different sizes...

[@Rchelicopterfun]

@joe schneider No - completely different internals., The GX connector is also smaller on the soldering iron. T12 soldering iron heating elements run at 24 VDC, hot air wands need way more power; their heating coils run on AC line voltage. Solder stations use a MOSFET to switch the iron heater on/off to regulate temp; hot air stations use a TRIAC.

[@DennisMurphey]

Thank You I just ordered this unit in V 3.0 and silver face, metal iron and 4 tips. Where can I get the hot air pencil. And why is it so expensive? My weller tcp from 1971 finally died. I loved that iron. May use the case as it's so comfortable. Thanks again.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Links to the KSGER 858D hot air station are in both the description & pinned comment. Not sure what you are asking about being so expensive? These are all low cost soldering tools after all, costing less than other similar equipment.

[@DennisMurphey]

Ah I did not scroll down enough to see the hot air machine. But, when I click the link my browser says page not available. Don't worry but if you count on any revenue from these links it might need a tune up. Thank you, D

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Hmmm... I just tried it using the Ksger 858D link shown in both in the description & pinned comment www.banggood.com/custlink/vDGmnbcsg4 it works fine on my browser.

[@DennisMurphey]

@@Rchelicopterfun must be my security, don't worry I didn't get my covid check yet. Thank you.

[@dhyanrules3]

I saw a KSGER T12 version that did not come with a internal power supply but a DC jack on the rear. Could I use a Laptop charger as the external power supply? I checked input voltage and amps, it would be more than enough. But is it something that is safe to do? Using a Lenovo charging power supply for a soldering station psu. Will it have Adequate passive cooling and Adequate performance? Buying a external switch mode power supply would still bring the total price down, what are your thoughts on that and do you see this as a good idea?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No idea, never looked into it.

[@carbide1968]

Would you buy this station for a first novice? I have done some simple soldering for my 3d printing projects and this looks perfect for me but will never open it let alone mod it.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

If you want direct drive tip technology, a T12 station is the least expensive way to get it in a decent quality package, with some pretty awesome & usable features. Otherwise you are better off getting a less expensive traditional slide on tip technology iron or station IMO - not as much to learn with them. Just my 2 cents of course.

[@LemonPuf]

Even if they are not grounded? I wouldn’t open it up either.

[@WinstonSmite]

if you are so worried about the grounding but don't want to diy ground it yourself then you can buy the version with plastic case

[@jeromelaunay5632]

@John Salt What is your microscope setup like? Specifically interested in the setup we can see in this video at 3:19.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

It's an AmScope SM series, with Hayear HD universal microscope camera. I did a review on the camera where I cover it and the Amscope in much more detail. Here's the link to that review if you're interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpTcmZSAesRqmdE There are product links in the description of that review video if you wanted to check the specs out on the specific equipment.

[@Barbaratio]

The only reason people are screaming that it's bad because it's cheap chinese is because they are elitists that only buy the highest end tools. These KSGER irons are actually pretty good, I used one as a field iron for a couple months and the thing is beat to hell but I still use it on my bench, replaced it with one of those TS100 irons as a field driver.

[@SevenDeMagnus]

Hi. I got both. I think it's better to have separate hot air workstation and a soldering station, if one gets busted, one can still use the other. I'm not sure if the T12 mini (either from KSGER or the rebranded Quicko which is almost twice as cheap and the Quecoo) is better coz' it's more modular but I'm not sure if it's good stacked coz' it's small and lighter. I have both the KSGER T12 (thanks to John Salt channel) and the 858D (thanks to Dave Jones of EEVBlog). It's nice there are non branded brands from china that's great but it took weeks to research- seek and you shall find, philosophy :-) God bless, Rev. 21:4

[@joshm264]

Mine came with the 907 iron, but I ordered an all black 9501(also by KSGER) and it's so much better. Also, the 907 iron is much bigger (in diameter) and isn't really any cooler than the 9501

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Good to know.

[@stevenspmd]

@@Rchelicopterfun I have the 907 and it gets a little warm sometimes but nothing much to care about; strange it would perform better cause the yellow silicon is thin, in fact I put a little masking type underneath of it to create some friction because the metal collar was unscrewing the black plastic collar. I laughed when the Weller came out, primary side fuse? .. whats that?!?!

[@ArchLinuxTux]

possible.did you also swap your 5w fuse for 2w?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Never touched the fuses.

[@brucestarr4438]

Did you make or buy your extra tip stand?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Made it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXS8d4OrZchnjbs

[@DennisMurphey]

I bought my unit based on numerous feedback such as yours. After 6 months it died. Error code from the handle on all tips. I did lose the auto on feature earlier but just hit the knob and it would warm up in 8 seconds. But last week as i was completing a Signal tracer conversion to into a Fender 5F1 guitar amp on the very last joint it died. I dug out my old Weller and completed the task. Then took the handle apart to find the bluer wire broken off. I repaired that and just as i completed the repair a black wire flopped up broken off from somewhere. My problem is i can't see a tab of point where it came from. Is it wired with the white lead??? I was also surprised at the thin wire used. This unit is a early 3.1 version with a black plastic handle. it seems someone cheaped out on the handle. I did not open it up but after seeing your ground fix i will. But now i want to get this handle fixed. Any thoughts? I have seen replacement harnesses and of course whole new handles. I also want the station you have to stow the handle, the tool tip stand and the tip tester. I used Thermistors in my 3D Printer and smoking model trains to control temp so i know once calibrated they are great. Appreciate your video any help on rewiring this handle and a source for the items you have would be great. I need to rework the Amp project and i am in withdrawals. the old iron is like 1 inch diameter and I can't see my work as easily. Thanks Again, Dennis in Virginia

[@Rchelicopterfun]

In my original review video of the T12, I show where all the wiring in the handle goes. I also have another video where I assembled the aluminum kit 9501 handle which also goes over wiring. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKDXeWqpZ7l6j8U The wire on these irons doesn't have to be large gauge because there is very little current passing through them. If they made it much larger, then the handle would be more difficult to move about with a "hose" coming out the backside. I'm not at all familiar with the "black handle" iron so have no idea how wire strain relief is managed inside it, but if the wires broke like you said inside the handle at the solder connection, my guess is there was insufficient strain relief for one reason or another. I use my T12 station almost daily, and no wires have broken as of yet (going on 18 months old), but as I showed in the original review video, I did take the time to re-solder them all (I was not happy with the factory soldering) and made sure to zip-tie to the cable to the cable support in the handle to ensure there was no strain on the individual wires in the handle at the solder connections.

[@DennisMurphey]

Looks like I am in trouble. The tip got Red Hot set at 350. Sensor may not connect right or thermistor not working. Your diagram was great but alas I think sensor failure has occurred. D

[@Rchelicopterfun]

The temp sensor for the tips is built into each tip. If you have more than one T12 tip and it does it with every tip, that would mostly likely be a wiring issue or problem with the unit. The little glass thermistor in the handle would not cause thermal runaway in the tip.

[@DennisMurphey]

Just tested with new tip, went to red hot in 8 seconds. I will order a new handle. Thks, D

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Could be the station as well. MOSFET's usually fail shorted so make sure to check that too.

[@Chogogo717]

How are the tips holding up? My concern is that this iron disappears about the time I need replacement tips. Going with a more expensive name brand would more likely ensure replacement parts. What’s you take on how long this iron will stick around?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

If I could predict stuff like that I would be playing the stock market. We live in a very volatile & competitive time right now. With that said, even if they only last another 2 years the value is impossible to beat.

[@Chogogo717]

John Salt fair enough. Thanks.

[@PainterVierax]

Those tips are clones of the Hakko's T12 series and one of the most performant and popular kind of tips. Note that older non-direct drive tips that are obsolete are still produced by Hakko and chinese clones like Yihua or Aoyue so you need to worry more about replacements parts for the soldering station itself than the tips..

[@scubadrunk2518]

Hi John. I followed your video about the T12 soldering station. I did the earth to case wire mod and have blown 2 units doing this in the UK. Not sure what would be causing this as the only mod made was to solder an earth wire from the earth connection on the mains connector where it meets the board TO a eyelet connector which i screwed into the case. Just like you show in the video. As i said I have now blown 2 units doing this mod so im not sure why this would be different in the UK. Any ideas?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Sorry none. As I'm in NA and we run on 120VAC, but I can't see how that would change anything since these things work with universal voltages. The only way something could "blow" after grounding the metal case is if the case is at a voltage potential and that would be a very dangerous situation. I also need more information than "blown unit". That doesn't tell me a thing. What competent/s blew. Fuse/s, input side of PS, output side, the logic board, etc. Impossible to diagnose remotely in other words without seeing exactly what mod you did, how you did it, and test the board to see exactly what failed. I'm assuming the units worked fine before grounding the case - yes? Did you probe your units with a DMM to ensure something on the board was not grounding to the case etc.

[@gazzahuck9766]

Mate seriously if you don’t know then you shouldn’t be making those changes. Ask somebody local with certification skills to help you or your product could be dangerous

[@salilmahadik9396]

Is the T12 soldering iron ESD safe ? Is the temperature controller circuit same as the HAKKO T12 ?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

If you plug it into a grounded outlet, the iron tip is also grounded. No idea about the Hakko.

[@joop2295]

No, it is NOT ESD safe! For ESD the tip should be connected to safety ground through a high value resistor (100k - 1M), to prevent high current spikes in case of static discharge. It is possible to change the tip holder for this.

[@luckywetland]

Thanks for the video. When I ordered mine, it came with the 907 iron and there was no option to select a different one because it was on sale from AliExpress. Honestly I am not a big fan of the 907 since I want to change the tips on the fly. So, I noticed there is another iron called "S1" which almost looks similar to the 9501 but all in black... Is it functionality wise the same?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I've never heard of the "S1" handle so have no idea. I've used all three of the "popular" T12 handles which include the original FX9501 (still the best by far IMO), the later 907 (not bad but not great - no on the fly change-out as you pointed out) and the aluminum 9501 (which is the worst of the three IMO). You can still get the original FX9501 handle at Ali (lots of them listed) and that would be my recommendation. Just make sure you choose the one with the correct plug end for your specific station or of course you can solder the plug end from your current 907 handle to the new 9501 handle if the plug is not the correct one.

[@luckywetland]

@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you for the reply. Actually after some diggings, I found out the the key difference between the new S1 and FX9501 is the tilt sensor. The FX9501 has a vibration dual rolling ball sensor, whereas the S1 has a mercury sensor.

[@cloud9photography126]

can i get a link for the hot air rework station on amazon ..i spent 2 hrs looking for it and couldnt find it

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Amazon don't carry them. I've only seen them at Banggood, Aliexpress, and eBay.

[@cajuncoinhunter]

Well it has been 2 years so far , how is that hot air station working out ? I plan on getting one to add to my soldering station collection .......

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Working fine. Only complaint is the fan in the handle like many small brushless fans is getting a little noisy until it runs for while. A drop of oil on the motor shaft will likely fix that, but new fans are inexpensive as well.

[@cajuncoinhunter]

@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you very much for your reply , it is on my wishlist on Ali Express.... Merci

[@DroneShotFPV]

I looked through the comments, but didn't exactly see what I was looking for, but have you found whether or not these are firmware upgrade-able? As a hobbyist in the RC realm (Drones, Planes and Heli's here) I know that SOME items we use don't have a readily accessible Firmware upgrade connection like a USB, but we can use an USB AVR cable, or similar to connect a pinout and get a bootloader to update. Does this have anything like that, or are these hardware chips that are only upgrade-able if you decided you wanted to swap out the SOC or something like that?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No idea, as long as it works - that's all that I care about.

[@DroneShotFPV]

@@Rchelicopterfun Just wanted to verify in case there was a feature set update or something for further safety. I remember when my Prusa i3 3D printer got an update which included the auto shut off, which prevented possible house fires, I was glad. lol Thanks for your video, I will be making / checking if I need to do the modifications you showed here. I really love my KSGER T12 unit, best Iron i've used to date in this price range. I have been using my TS100 for a couple years now, and it's been shelved for field use only!

[@PainterVierax]

There is an opensource firmware based on TS100 one lying on Github for those ksger stations but it's still quite experimental so it's safer to desolder the provided MCU and keeping it as a backup. Also the firmware is only available for an older PCB design which is quite hard to find these days. At this point, you may want to look instead on Github for the hakko_t12_STM32 which is an openhardware station designed from scratch with a common bluepill devboard. Finally, you'd probably buy an ST-Link to program the stm32 chips as the bootloader provided can vary from batch to batch and might be write-locked, there is good enough cheap clones lying around. The skill is a bit higher than AVR's bootloaders and it requires proprietary freeware from STMicro but it's also a powerful debugger and more convenient than Atmel/Microchip's barebone programming suite.

[@FuchsHorst]

The T12 KSGER soldering station is great, the hot air not so much. Nowhere near BST or Quick Hot Air Stations

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Hmmm, I'm certainly not finding any issue with it. Admittedly, I don't use it for SMD work all that often; perhaps a couple SMD projects a month, compared to the weekly heat shrink and bearing racing heating jobs it gets. All I know is I did have an Aoyue pump style hot air station before this one, and I much prefer this one as it takes up much less space on the bench and is not nearly as noisy or with the small brushless fan in the handle. Heat up time is also faster and temp accuracy seems better. Guess it all depends what our application and work environment is like. For heavier use, perhaps the pump style stations are better, but for RC hobbyist use, this little KSGER 858D is working a treat (so far). 🤔

[@Hack3rPT]

@@Rchelicopterfun Is the hot air station still working great? I already have a KSGER T12 Mini (it's a really really good station for the price) and wanted to also have something for SMD work.

[@michaelb3917]

PLEASE, kindly give/link me firmware dump of ksger 858D firmware as my CORRUPTED and I can't get it anywhere on the internet.

[@Justdigit2]

LOL.... That bag of Balls.... I alway thought it was a chinese trick to sell fake externe hard drives.... Great video thanks.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Glad to help

[@paulmillard1130]

You have put the rear switch incorrect also the rectifier diode heatsink is live to one of the diode pins unless fitted with an isolator kit and I've bought one of these irons today

[@Rchelicopterfun]

The MRB20200CTG rectifier (what's in mine), is an epoxy insulated case. No insulator back & screw sleeve is needed between it and the heat sink to insulate it. Yes, I physically checked it when I removed the heat sink to grind off the corners of those two outer fins. Perhaps yours has a different rectifier and you like your rocker switches to be off in the up position - I don't. Switch down = off, switch up = on in my world. 🙂

[@demofilm]

In your video the main capacitor is begin to leak , please replace the 400v 68uf

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Good eye. I noticed that too and just figured it was some mastic that got smeared across the top of the cap as it looked like the same yellow adhesive goo that is on a couple of the connectors. I went back and watched my review video and didn't see any on the cap a year ago so it must be some cap shmoo leaking out. Guess that's another thing to keep an eye on 🤔

[@demofilm]

John Salt yes thanks for the investigation. that brand cap is a well known bad cap maker. i think they were responsible for the imitation samsung caps. those were problematic after a year of use. and were used in lots of tv,s from 10 years back.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Good to know. Thanks!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Turns out there was a tiny pin hole in the top of the cap at the corner of one of expansion/burst cross lines - unreal! Thanks again for pointing it out. I replaced it with a Nichicon 400V 68uf cap and noticed the display comes on a little quicker now.

[@demofilm]

John Salt thanks for the video and your answer. If one cap is the biggest problem of this unit, i am verry happy to have orderd one .

[@travisfrostify]

will $15- 5 pin tweezers work with a t12 host?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Sorry, no idea but I doubt it. These T12 station's PID algorithms and output voltage/current are specific for direct drive T12/T15 solder tips only.

[@travisfrostify]

@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for the insight! guess some yihua stand alone tweezers will be the way.. if they are functional.

[@PeetHobby]

There are base units that use an external power brick instead of an internal power supply. I own one of those and I brought a decent power brick in the EU.

[@riesefelix658]

that moment when your soldering station shows the date and has a clock

[@tonybriggs4181]

John can you help me ref ksger t12 won't go in standby

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Only suggestion is to double check your standby time programming.

[@olliehaselden375]

Did you solve this issue? Mine beeps after the set time but won't drop into standby..

[@tonybriggs4181]

It was the small ball sensor ....in the handle it needed swopping around it seems they are directional regards

[@tonybriggs4181]

@@olliehaselden375 hi Ollie it was the ball sensor in the handle it needed turning around apparently they are directional cheers

[@dre145]

@@tonybriggs4181 I'd heard a few other reviewers mention the sensor in the Handle being wired the wrong way which would cause it to be on when in the holder instead of in the off position

[@Gorilla721]

So stupid question...I'm buying this as my only iron. So how do I go into this iron and "solder" wires inside my only iron...lol.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Beg, borrow, or steal another 😄

[@gkruntz]

Make a video on the switch box please.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I can't. Electrical codes vary by region and due to the dangers of working with mains current & voltage if you are not fully comfortable & understand the what & why of household electrical circuits, best to stay well clear. However, if you understand the basics of house wiring & how to wire a standard single pole 4 switch electrical box, this is the exact same thing with the exception I'm using a single box with smaller single pole toggle switches rated for household voltage & current (125V/20A) instead of normal wall switches inside. They are wired exactly the same internally. Neutrals all tied together. Grounds all tied together. Hot in going to one side of all toggles, hot out from each toggle switch going to each separate plug.

[@gazzahuck9766]

If you have to ask. Then seriously, you shouldn’t be making one. I suggest you buy a power board with individual switches and Velcro or glue it to your bench area away from your direct working space.

[@Redddddddddddddddddddddd]

Pretty sure the main transformer is only functionally isolated.

[@ian1352]

Everything aimed at consumers is built to a price. Really expensive professional equipment may be built to just be the best, but we're not their target market. Many of us can only just afford these fairly decently made Chinese products.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Well stated. 🙂

[@brandonkick]

And for a lot of us, it fits the bill in terms of price vs performance. I'm a huge tech / video game nut. I use my Yihua 936 clone unit that I paid $30 for off of hobby king probably 6 or 7 years ago now to do a lot of modding work. Recapped a game gear with it, fixed several game boys, new batteries, fixed several computer monitors and a TV. Even fixed a few pinball machines and arcade games with it (Ms Pac Man monitor... I'm lookin at you). While my usage did / does justify better than the 30 dollar cloner I have, it doesn't warrant a $300+ machine either. Soldering projects are few and far between for me now, but for $50 I have no problems picking up something like this which is a much bigger step towards those expensive machines in terms of features and performance than what I have, even if it only sees 20 or 25 hours of action per year.

[@TheBendixSA]

Yeah Weller is really not that great anymore... honestly, also it takes ages to heat up, once you are used to 10 sec heatup of the KSGER it's over. BTW. that sandbag is crazy.

[@WunHeart]

my weller just died too and when opened it up. I was not impressed with it. I have order KSGER soldering station as replacement after watching John reviews.

[@jmantothe64]

Here's a tip for removing hot glue: add a drop of IPA(Isopropyl alcohol), and it comes right off

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Hmm, just tried it last night, didn't even touch it. Must be different types of hot glue.

[@carlfarrington]

@@Rchelicopterfun should work. It's how the PDR (paintless dent removal) kits work.

[@gazzahuck9766]

Metal toggles. Metal plate. Mains power. Oooohhhhhh. Not ideal. Strongly suggest using plastic mains voltage switch plates which are fully com-leant and electrically isolated

[@Rchelicopterfun]

And fully grounded as per the electrical code here - passes code no problem. The toggle's themselves are fully insulated. These specific ones are rated up to 250V. Do you honestly think an industrial spec SPST toggle rated at 250VAC would not be safe to use in this application? Come on! In short (no pun), it's more than ideal partner 🖕

[@elmariachi5133]

Wow! That fake weight even in a Weller is like: 'Don't ever give a fuck about brand names anymore!'.

[@keithcoltron3171]

On/Off switch is the correct way down for On up for Off it's just you faulty Americans :-) that are the wrong way around the UK way is much more sensible, I've noticed your domestic light switches are the same tut tut :-) I've just purchased the KSGER hope they're all good (quality control) for the price they're just amazing! great vid by the way, don't forget to put the switch back the correct way :-) so strange we look at something so small to be so irritating, stay healthy.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yep, it's what you're used to and have built up years/decades of subconscious memory turning switches on & off. It honestly was driving me crazy (not a far trip). Regardless, down = off (lower value of 0) & up = on (higher value of 1) makes way more binary logical sense to me. BTW, I'm located in Canada - not USA! Enjoy your T12 regardless of toggle orientation; as you say, amazing soldering station & technology for the price.

[@2000jago]

Any product that utilizes a "wire nut" should go straight into the garbage. Those things are a scourge upon the earth and any company using them in a real world scenario deserves scorn and ridicule.

[@AntoNio-nw7kx]

what to say.... another interesting video ! this is the proof that not all Chinese items are so bad, especially about theyr price. and i'm a user of weller items from 3 decades (in my company we have that ones)