KSGER T12 Aluminum FX9501 Soldering Iron Build & Review

Detailed look and assembly of the KSGER Aluminum 9501 soldering iron handle for their T12 soldering station. This is the kit version that makes a fun & easy soldering project for your T12 station, but the review will apply to the pre-built version too.
In the first half of the video I'll show you how to assemble and solder the kit FX9501 iron. The review in the second half of the video starts at time index 17:16 .
Product links & more:
1. Pre-Built KSGER T12 Aluminum FX9501 Iron:
www.banggood.c...
2. DIY Kit KSGER T12 Aluminum FX9501 Iron:
www.banggood.c...
3. KSGER T12 Soldering Station:
www.banggood.c...
4. FX9501 Aluminum Iron Handle Fix Ideas Video:
• KSGER T12 Aluminum FX9...
5. KSGER T12 Soldering Station Video Review:
• KSGER T12 Review - The...
6. Detailed KSGER T12 Soldering Station Written Review:
www.rchelicopt...
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting RCHelicopterFun.com & my channel which helps me keep creating content.

[@cmnavsatnavs]

"Foreplay doesn't work...you gotta get out the luuuube!" :))) Best part of the video!

[@GutiBarreto]

you saved my life, mine wasn't working shake mode because the blue and white wires were reversed. Thanks to you I could fix mine. thanks !

[@younhitchborn]

Watching someone fix a solder iron with another solder iron made me wonder how the original solder iron was built.

[@joshm264]

The world's first soldering iron was made by heating up a pointy metal tip with fire to heat up the solder to make the first one, and then they could keep improving

[@awsumpawsum8333]

I built an electric guitar years ago, didn't have a soldering iron of any type. Didn't have money for something decent, didnt want to waste money on a cheap one. I ended up using a pair of Vise-Grips to hold a nail, which I then heated with a propane torch to solder up my guitar. Did a fantastic job. I still have the guitar, it sounds incredible.

[@oysa21]

:))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

[@davidneuhaus1257]

It's soldering irons all the way down

[@trco6397]

Compilers are kinda the same way

[@jmicari]

Thank you so much for this. Had issues with my pencil where it was randomly erroring and also the motion switch hasn't worked for over a year now. Didn't realise you could open them up so easily. 2 broken wires repaired as per your colours and away we go!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Great to hear 👍

[@travisfrost6508]

I've been using this handle for a year and it's been amazing. The aluminum ring on the very tip gets HoTT with extended use so I just don't touch it. Other than that it's wonderful. Favorite handle ever.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Glad you are enjoying yours. :)

[@aurthorthing7403]

Pretty sure those metal handles are designed to unscrew, then you put the tip in the handle and screw the end back on. That way you don't need a silicon pad to change the tip when it's hot. Kinda like the Hakko but different. I prefer the plastic handles myself.

[@dalriada842]

You're right about the way the tip is supposed to be put in. It's not about the heat though. It's about making sure the tip is fully pushed home. On the original design people will get an error on the soldering station if it isn't inserted all the way. This design prevents that at the cost of convenience.

[@buildstoys]

Thanks for the review - I've thought about getting one of them, but I agree with your cons and I don't think it's worth the price.

[@Brian-uq6jm]

Thanks for the detailed review. I'm more inclined to think it's your particular unit that's faulty. I have an aluminium handle that looks identical to yours but with a "Quicko" branding (my iron is Quicko branded). Changing tips on it is as easy as on my plastic handle. I too bought it as a kit and assembled it myself. I don't have your stand, so the handle being slimmer is actually better for me cuz the smaller size does feel a bit better in the hand.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Thanks for sharing

[@travisfrostify]

my aluminium handle didn't even work initially:( I contacted ksger before voiding my warranty and the person who answered seemed sarcastic so i just fixed it... the tips were just getting stuck a couple millimeters out and wouldn't male contact. One small file later and some kapton tape and the damn handle is my favorite one I own!! It simply feels and works perfectly now... i would recommend it with a couple warnings.

[@boz89]

My first handle was the carbon fiber handle. It is awful. The tips are loose and they wobble slightly while soldering. It is also impossible to clean the tips using the wire sponge because the tips would be pulled out ever so slightly. That's the reason why I ordered this one. At first I had the exact same issue as you. I managed to get a full refund. After I got the refund I found the fix for the handle on KZbin. After the fix this is my favourite handle without a doubt. It is perfect for smd soldering.

[@Redogful]

I think this hand pice design is very good, it can be adjusted by the screw nut of the front tightness. To replace the soldering tip, you can loosen the screw nut first, and change the soldering tip then tighten it again. As for the soldering stand, of course, you must use the appropriate one.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

SCREW NUT? What is a screw nut? There is no nut or screw on this iron that can be used to loosen or tighten a T12 tip in this iron handle. It's a slip sleeve friction fit only. Apparently Ksger have resized the sleeve going by other's comments so the fit is better than it was on this one I got. Unfortunately, like all reviewers, I can only review and give feedback on the product I get. I can't review countless examples to increase the sample size. On this one I got, tip insertion was tighter than a nuns nasty, and there was no way to fix that other than fit a different sleeve - which I did in the next video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipOonqRuqL2CjqM As I restated in that video, there is absolutely no reason why KSGER would make their aluminum FX9501 iron unable to correctly fit THEIR ONE and ONLY iron stand. All their other T12 irons fit their stand - so why not this one, especially when the fix is so easy (machine the end lip slightly larger). This is a shortcoming of this iron - plain and simple.

[@Redogful]

@@Rchelicopterfun Its tightening mechanism is like this: inside the tightening screw is equipped with a silicon P6 O-ring. When the screw is tightened, the O-ring is pressed to make the inner diameter become smaller, so that the soldering tip is locked. If you do not open the screw, the soldering tip cannot be removed.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

None of that is on this iron - if they updated it, good - maybe they listened.

[@johndee759]

Thank you for making this review.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

My pleasure!

[@Acecool]

Thanks for showing the screw mechanism. I'm used to the GX16 connectors which have a small rotation and retention screw... All of the GX12 connectors that I've found for sale seem to show the GX16 as they have the rotation with retention screw...

[@iScherma]

I got mine pre-built with the alluminum handle and the newer stainless steel front cover, but I think one of the wires are not properly soldered in one of the ends of the handle, I can tell visually that it seems fine but I can't get past the `ERROR` on the T12 controller, a multimeter it's arriving tomorrow so I will run more tests. I can see that the tips go all the way through, it's not super tight as you describe in my case but when I randomly move it, it makes the controller to beep but since it's too fast it don't actually warm it up. =/ Funny thing, we live nearby. =P Thanks for the instructional videos. =)

[@John_Smith__]

to avoid putting stress on the wire since there is no anchor point on the aluminum handle I usually insert a zip-tie on the cable itself Above the solder joint on the silicon cable. That will make the cable be on pressure against the walls of the handle and hence be a stress point above the solder joint. Notice to everyone that the motion switch Does have a Position to be soldered ..I think the Golden pin is supposed to be soldered to the connector, and the silver pin of the switch soldered to the wire. (or at least I think that's the case ... please confirm somenwhere else before doing this.)

[@Hudsonkem]

very nice review :)

[@travisfrost6508]

I just bought the aluminum handle because someone said the plastic was bad quality... at least I can learn from your experience lol

[@samdeur]

thanks nice vid.. saved it in my new playlist for ref in the future.. always wanted to know how to service / build a new handle if so needed. the one i got is also all metal but i was afraid to open it in case i would brake it.. mine has a o-ring , a regular silocone red o-ring like the ones we in the mech keyboard use to dampen keycaps.. or should i say what beginners use to dampen keycaps haha

[@Sv3TL10]

Please help me choose a handle, because I got my station with the thin plastic one (black body, blue grip) and it is very comfortable, but it's the second time it breaks now in less than a year, this time it's a plastic inside, hardly repairable.. And I use it carefully and gentle... Anyway, I find different opinions on all handles, it looks like your plastic version from this video is the most reliable.. Can you please help me, because you have a lot of experience with them, which one to order? Thanks in advance, you helped me choose the right version of the station, btw :)

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I like the original 9501 plastic handle the best out of all of them. Never had a problem with it (totally anecdotal & subjective opinion). I rarely run my iron tips over 370C however so perhaps they is why my original plastic handle has never had any problems? I don't like the other plastic handle version as the tip extends too far out and it's not nearly as comfortable to use. Many are saying the tight fit issue with this aluminum handle version has been fixed and if so, then it may be the best of both worlds if you find the original FX9501 plastic handle version doesn't last long.

[@Sv3TL10]

@@Rchelicopterfun thank you! Will bet on plastic again, pretty sure it will last longer than mine :)

[@AlanDike]

Gets WARM at 400. Found a slow twist when inserting the tip makes a huge difference. The plastic one I had to replace because one of the caps on the t12 tips came off in the plastic wand.

[@user-np9gd9od9z]

Sir inside iron and next silicon cap

[@texastyrannyresponseteam794]

never get mad about it being too tight.. half the fun is wollering it out to fit...

[@ronchinoy]

Tight is always better than loose. Mine was loose.

[@boz89]

The carbon fiber handle I received is very loose. I am not sure if that is normal. The tip has some play and if shake the handle with a little bit of force the tip comes out 1 or 2 centimetres. I will message the seller

[@knopfler19]

I have same problem. Carbon handle, tip too loose 😢

[@fklotaloi]

Wowww John , u hv the patience to do this.. I would rather go readymade one… but I learnt frm u 😄

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I find building stuff like this both fun & rewarding 🙂

[@emanuelkszenics7689]

i've managed to fire it even shorter and win extra working distance, my tip inserted in the iron it's 3.3cm, that's fking close! it's almost like writing with a pen :)) what i dislike about it...well...at 350 it gets quite hot quite fast, but for that working distance i'm happy with it

[@seangannon193]

i have the quicko version and all is fine with mine

[@Boz1211111]

What model? Been looking to buy p9 handle bur dont see any reviws

[@andreiciora2765]

I Have a fx 951 soldering iro worck perfect

[@vitcenek8611]

Hello, nice rewiew! Can I ask you, where did you get this black tip holder piece in your stand?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I built that insert, but it doesn't work well because the tips were too hard to access and the iron hits them. This DIY stand I built is working much better: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXS8d4OrZchnjbs

[@hobbyelectronics6630]

The tilt switch is using protective earth as a current return path. There shouldn't be any current on PE. They must have tied earth to circuit ground inside the solder station in order to sense the tilt switch. That doesn't seem quite right to me.

[@tomgiorgini9154]

what gauge was the wire in that handle cord

[@TheMaGGiiiii]

Thanks for this great Video! Can you tell us, whats this black one for you changing TIPs with ? Thanks

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Just a piece of silicone cut from a silicone pot holder.

[@eNKa007]

Try OSS Team one

[@One-Eyed-Willly]

I had been interested in this station , but how does this hold up to the pinecil/TS100/TS101?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

It's a bench top tool - holds up better.

[@Bodhi1satva]

I’ve had the opposite problem with the tips being too lose and rattling around a bit. I’ve pushed the connections about as tight as I dare with little results. Looks like they’ve corrected it by using a thinner silicone sleeve, but now it’s too thin. imho. They’ve also added a metal threaded piece to the strain relief so it screws into the chassis. So looks like someone’s at least paying attention to your videos!

[@Bodhi1satva]

Also while this looks like a DO-35 series glass axial NTC, do we know which? Or where we might get the specs? My kit came with ZERO paperwork!

[@stanimir4197]

This is very late to the party - the largest downside (aside the well made points in video) - the handle heats up bit too much to handle with bare hands. Also due to lack of a lip on the front end, it's easy to slip a finger onto the hot rod tip.

[@RalfsBalodis]

How about you showing us this station in action? :)

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I have; too many times some would argue. Full review: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3y0dGx9ariMf6s T12 Tip Calibration: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIG0oqODbbp9ipo Parasitic drain: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWSqmpqNZqaae5I Parasitic drain fix: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eF7biJuGmNdpoM0

[@IndoJimbo]

Im a soldering beginner. How did you get your T12 tips to stand up like that in the Iron holder?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I made a tip holder for the back compartment of the stand/iron holder. I talk about it in my T12 review page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/t12-soldering-station.html

[@mime4331]

Do you prefer t12 tips over the common c/t245?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

6 of 1 half a dozen of the other since performance is pretty identical. I would however argue Hakko style T12/15 are much more common than JBC style tips; at least in my neck of the woods as T12/15's and easier to find and cost less. Those two reasons alone are why I prefer them.

[@Brian-ur1dt]

I have an old Duratech TS-1390 60w station (probably circa 2005, discontinued now) with no iron. I've been looking around for an iron to get for it. It uses a 5 pin aviation plug. I noticed these KSGER FX9501's use a 5 pin plug as well, the pin pattern is different but considering you got both ends of the plug in your build, I was wondering if you knew if the FX9501 would be compatible with my station or not.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

It would not be compatible. These irons use direct drive technology cartridge T12 & T15 tips only. Only soldering stations that are designed to work with these new technology tips will work. If you were to drive a T12/T15 cartridge tip with an old school ceramic core tip soldering station, the T12/T15 tip would get red hot, and the internal heating element along with the series thermistor would quickly fail.

[@Brian-ur1dt]

@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John!

[@th3drizzl378]

i have the plastic blue one same as yours as well as the black plastic that looks the same as this aluminum one and the aluminum one you have but in blue and the stainless one and honestly i use the standard blue one 99% of the time. i just like the way it feels and fits in the hakko style stands ( i like the same stand as the one u have here) for the aluminum ones and the stainless i went with the all metal blue stand with the tip holes in it that has a better style for the aluminum handles. meh i dont see the need for these when the plastic ones are so cheap i can buy 2-3 of those for what the metal ones do. i bought 6 and tossed them in a drawer for backups.

[@pr0xZen]

I don't see how not fitting in the holder is a fail for the iron. That holder is made for a different iron (sized as the Hakko FM-2027/2028). It won't fit a Hakko micropencil (FM-2032) either. That's no fault of the holder or iron, but the user not using the holder made to fit that iron. I do believe the Hakko micropencil receptacle fits this iron in review. It's a straight swap on both original Hakko FH-200 stands, and these cheap chinese ones. Part number B5000.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

The issue is many with the KSGER T12 already have the stock KSGER Hakko clone iron holder. Yes it is a fail for the iron for the simple reason this is a KSGER iron that we would expect to fit their holder.

[@kevindigit]

Hey John might I ask what’s the name and model number of your bench vise?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

It's nothing special, just the vise from my 8" drill press. Here's a very similar style one at Amazon for not much $: amzn.to/3phxnia Or just search 8" drill press vise and other examples will come up.

[@ridetheapex]

11:18 What is that heat tool you are using?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Hot air rework station: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWKymn6cl8Rjg5o

[@khiljibaba8482]

👍👍👍

[@newvaper3794]

hi john...the color coded wires what do they correspond to...for example the blue and white are they the colors for the heating element or the thermocouple? i have an old chinese made fake hakko soldering iron...i already know what the pinouts are but my problem is on the temperature control board itself how do i match the pinouts of the soldering iron with that of the control board....i mean on the control board where are the heaating element and thermocouple pinouts...btw i purchased just the control board...please help me...thanks.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No idea. There is no color standardization. I had the original iron to go by and what pin went to what component in the iron handle. Without the original, I wouldn't have had a clue other than to look for a KSGER T12 schematic online.

[@newvaper3794]

@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for replying fast John...

[@sutoposidiklawajo8977]

Just strip the label off.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Mine wasn't hanging up on the tag, it's the ridges on the tip that are too tight against the silicone sleeve. People are now saying the latest versions are coming with slightly larger ID silicone sleeve and that has cured the problem.

[@hijiktaforever2565]

hi ,can it run on 12v battery ?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No.

[@BradCagle]

lube

[@jamesdavies686]

Will this iron work with the non oled display T12D station?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No idea.

[@MrGerhow]

Not buying one, , deal breaker for me