KSGER T12 Review - The Best Cheap Soldering Station Value

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Ordering & pricing information for this KSGER T12 soldering station: Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/vDvFPN05aK Amazon: amzn.to/40CiFVS August 2023 update. 4 years old and still working great! Still love this little station👍

[@chefbink61]

The (0) next to the tip type on the display means that that tip type is not calibrated, that is why the new 1st time tip use goes through the error and heat loop. If you have a tip thermometer you can go into the menu and to hot end and select tip type and adjust the PID temp settings. When you start the set up it will take the tip through 3 temp setting, it will display the temp it thinks it sees and ask you to put in the real temp. Once you have done this the tip will stay with in a few C of set temp. The pump and de-solder setting are for controlling a vac pump for a de-solder station, which KSGER sells a 2 in 1 and a 3 in 1 station that has T-12, hot air and de-solder station. I have a real Hakko and a few of these T-12 stations and by far the KSGER is the best of the T-12 units. It keeps better temp control then the real Hakko and has many more settings. With that said the Hakko does out power it though. When you have to solder something with high thermo mass the KSGER will take longer or may not be able to do it at all, but this does not happen often. For everyday use the KSGER is really the best bang for the buck!!

[@Alexandra-Rex]

I bought this a couple of years ago, but haven't started using it yet. I did test it and got ERROR on the screen, but I took the iron apart and put the tip in without the cover on it, and then I got no error. I put it back and then it worked. But I did notice a rattle when I moved it around, so I'm happy you explained what it was, cause I thought there was something wrong inside that small thing (which is black on mine). Edit: Now that I've seen through the whole video (apparently it's very hard to watch through whole videos before commenting), you did mention the error situation, and that's probably the same for mine. A very useful video, thank you. I'm very new to soldering, bought this on a recommendation in another video as I have things i want to do with soldering, just never got around to starting that, so this video run-through of this station was very handy.

[@mik310s]

I just just got one of these, I'm amazed by the price and performance its the best iron I've owned in 35 years and yet one of the cheapest!

[@raymondchan3587]

Yes, it is a cheap build but highly workable. But it is still more expensive than my previous Goot simple model solder iron anyway.

[@wagnerdiaz6997]

Ive been using a variant of theese, the Queeco T12, pretty much the same thing, honestly I really like it, dont see the need to spend over 100 for an iron having paid 45 for this one with three tips LOL. I just recently purchased three extra tips I wanted. I've had it for over a year now, using ti daily. No issues. I mostly do microsoldering on iPhones by the way, so yeah, precision is not a problem for this one.

[@trondam]

This is a great solder station for the price. I got mine in December 2018 and I'm very happy with it. Voultar had a review on it. That's why I bought mine 😍👍

[@joshm264]

Same

[@svsv9]

2 Years so far, May you tell me How good it have been?. I am going to use it heavily for cellphone repair.

[@joshm264]

@@svsv9 I got mine summer 2019, still going strong. I got a second handle for it but one of the wires feel off, but nothing us hobbyists can't do

[@svsv9]

@@joshm264 Great! I may decide to order it. Thank you.

[@joshm264]

@@svsv9 go on Amazon and spend the $8 more, you get prime shipping and a longer warranty. Just make sure NOT to get the Quicko, Quecoo, or ShineNow.

[@tabdougherty8549]

WOW!! What a show. thank you! Mine is on the way and your video was supper informative

[@chimera5588]

Thank you for the disassembly! My first handle seemed to be off, and I wasn't sure how disassemble it without breaking it. The replacement I got for free was even worse off, so I'm going to fix both! Great video!

[@RioTintoGoAwayFromDrinaRiver]

22:35. NTC temperature sensor in handle is for measurement room temperature. Another sensor is in CPU. You can choose one or another. Both of them are using for temperature compesation. If you want correct tip temperature from your station, temperature contoller somehow must know what is room temperature. It is reference temperature. Sorry for bad english.

[@raymondchan3587]

I can understand all your words pretty well. Be confident, your English is not that bad.

[@em0_tion]

Thank you for this amazing review, just what i was looking for ;)

[@em0_tion]

Update: Ordered mine from your link + D24 + BC2 + iron stand + wire brush and stand. Just arrived and tested it for a day. Almost zero after-factory QC was needed and i'm loving its performance :) Exactly what i expected. Came with the shitty 907 "screw retaining" handle though, so i ordered one of these black and blue "just insert" 9501s. Thank you so much, John, you saved me from a lot of salt :D

[@chrislalonde354]

Hi John, I purchased the 2 in 1 KSGER solder station. The encoder main menu numbers 13 Desolder and 14 Air pump are for other hardware that uses this board for a Hot air gun and vacuum suction add on. They have released larger cases which can accommodate these functions with hardware.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Good to know - thanks for the info! 👍

[@ShootAUT]

I'm a total beginner and was just looking for a good value soldering station. Picked up that "T12" term somewhere in the comment section of another video. Ended up here and watched through the whole thing. Absolutely amazing review with great bits of advice.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Thanks for the feedback. Hope it helped answer some of your T12 questions. I have a T12 update video as well you may be interested in: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqqciIiqq8l1i80 And one on T12 tip calibration: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIG0oqODbbp9ipo

[@TimDavis77]

Great video. I just got one of these irons and this was very helpful in explaining the menu settings. FWIW, my battery was in the same position, but had 3 Volts coming out, so I just removed it from the transformer and secured it inside the bottom with double-sided tape.

[@SolRC]

at 17:05 I bought the solder station and subscribed. Super in depth with real world working reviews, thanks very helpful.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Awesome, thank you

[@jeffreyosborne6747]

A most excellent review and instruction video. Mine just arrived and you have saved me days on working out how to use it. Thanks so much. I'll be going to your later calibration video too! Good man.

[@QrchackOfficial]

About the new tip calibration process - it's normal to see errors, and I remember on one of the Hakko support pages they mention it as well, so this is normal operation. They also tell you it's learning the tip, so all good there, no need to worry.

[@polishguywithhardtospellna8227]

Thank for review, teardown and well orginised description with all related videos

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Thanks - Glad you liked it/them 🙂

[@lmamakos]

All the stuff with the selection of the thermistor in the handle vs. the on-chip temperature sensor is probably to have a reference temperature to do cold-junction compensation for the thermocouple in the tip. You probably want to use the thermistor in the handle, as it's going to be right up close to the "cold junction" where the two different alloy thermocouple wires are joined to the copper conductors in the cable.

[@cannesahs]

I came to seek this comment. Doesn't help much compensate with cpu temperature if inside handle is tens degrees higher. I guess cpu option is for cheaper handles?

[@johnjay7822]

I'm new to this hobby, but clearly late. Prices have gone up in this hobby over just one year! Great video, I just bought this model.

[@bulldogg187]

PID temp calibration. you do this on 3D printers to calibrate the hotend and bed to help control temp fluctuations. That would be my guess.

[@billfusionenterprise]

I like the fact the boards look very clean

[@briancampbell4310]

Awesome review. I wish everybody was this thorough. Even though it is a long video i have no problem watching as long as its not repetitive like most videos out there. I really appreciate it. Im still decidkng on which station to buy

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Emalo]

this is called review, thanks for this video!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@DriverWay8848]

I buy this soldering station (KSGER) from Aliexpress 7 months ago. I work with this on pcb, pc motherboard, 30awg to 6awg wires and this station newer let me down. I have an weller before, after buing this station i realize how easy is to work in diferent item without even changing the tips.

[@Karl3377]

Very good video. My question, is it easy to change function with the button when pushed in? Because mine need a much stronger push than normally it would need I think. Maybe my version is not the best? Thanks.

[@jameshamilton6643]

Thanks, John. Detailed, and concise. Just what I was after.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Glad it helped

[@Prash1c]

Got a Version 3 KSGER about 2 years ago to start my electronics hobby after seeing raving reviews for value-conscious newbie/noob hobbyists. Appreciate this video and how you took her apart and explained the inner components of it! Thank you so much! :) One question: I got my tips for about 5 bucks each, is there a link for the $22 for 10 tip deal you got?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Glad you found it useful

[@marcmicari7659]

i agree just got mine today it is awesome as advertised!!!! great video keep it up.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Enjoy it

[@SevenDeMagnus]

Thanks. This amazing, Ksger T12 soldering OLED station with handle (STM32 form factor) just arrived yesterday and is one of my favorites tools now (along with the General 100% all metal digital caliper) soldering station. It's true, getting the 10 piece tip is the best value for this, instead of buying things separate (a piece are priced at almost the 10 piece one for some odd reason)- I've tinned all 10 tips, now I have to buy a good soldering wire. It's odd, Ksger's official store on Ali Express is way more expensive. God bless, Rev. 21:4

[@mmouse928]

Just ordered one, thank you for your review.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Hope you enjoy it

[@juggalizzle75]

Fyi there is no short protection on this unit. The k tip they sent had a hard short which killed the power supply. It almost killed the replacement unit but i turned it off while it was rebooting repeatedly. Tested tips and sure enough there is continuity between the body and all the rings on the tip. You might test tips before using.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Good "tip" Pun intended...

[@juggalizzle75]

@@Rchelicopterfun the handle also didn't wake from standby. The response from ksger on Amazon was "hello friend, our unit is intended to wake from sleep by pressing the rotary encoder button". Ya. Ok. You just don't want to send me a handle. Gotcha

[@MislavM]

I wonder what was the engineering decision to put heatsink (next to big cap) directly above HV trace with only solder mask separating LV and HV part?

[@cls9474]

Great review, thanks! One thing I noticed though: Although the power supply features a nice isolation cut out, the heat sink of the rectifier diode crosses it deliberately. Even if the diode has a nice isolated package other components on the primary and secondary side come pretty close to the heat sink. As far as I can tell from the footage: on both sides the heat sink passes over traces and just the solder mask isolates them both - or is that just an illusion? Perhaps the heat sink rests on standoffs?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

You are correct. The heat sink largely defeats air gap isolation, at least in that area of the board.

[@zokonjazokonja]

32:30 seems that it perform PID parameter auto adjustments

[@elijahwatson8119]

Currently $36 on bang good. I think I'm gonna order one. I'm not even a major hobbyist - mostly just general repairs, but even so it'll probably be a massive upgrade over my Yihua station, which seems to struggle as far as thermal mass goes.

[@cfusername]

I'm using two of those for quite a while now. I often need different tip sizes and this way I don't need to change them as often. Still using the same tips.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Thanks for sharing your good success with these stations & tip longevity.

[@stevenspmd]

I just got one from amazon. This station is pure awesome for the price. My weller station has now been relocated to the parts bin.

[@AtlantaTerry]

Instead of the parts bin, you could donate it to a charity such as Goodwill.

[@majdinj]

This power supply board has major flaw in it. It has failed primary to secondary isolation. What is the point of having the effort to isolate primary and secondary circuitry but then bridge both sides by big chunk diode heat sink. If you tear it down more and look up closely underneath the power supply board you will find that the isolation is defeated by the soldered legs of diode heat sink of being so close to primary side at one end and to secondary side at the other end. I hope this will be corrected in next reversion of power supply board.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

You are correct. After removing the board I see your concerns. Not sure I would classify that as a "major flaw". I would classify it as an interesting one that deserves a deeper discussion.

[@mikewillis1592]

@@Rchelicopterfun I would consider it a major flaw - but it is a flaw in assembly. That longer heatsink should be spaced off the PCB to allow a decent spacing between it and the tracks. Perhaps a different one was assumed in the design. There is potential connection between live side and low voltage side and its only protection is the solder mask. Over time, as the heatsink expands and contracts, that mask might wear away on some units that have very low spacing. The solution is simple, raise the heatsink off the board slightly and perhaps put a bit of kapton tape under it. Or perhaps bend away the offending tab that's threatening to short to the low voltage side. The unit I received was the same as yours, I have modified the heatsink spacing and removed the 10k. Battery was down to 2V so I will need a new one, I don't care about the date but I do care about some of the other settings. Still good value. Mike

[@aaronperelmuter8433]

So is it a better idea to get the version which doesn’t include a psu? On eBay they have the version shown in this vid and a identical one which just has the front panel mounted in a tiny box. To power it one uses a laptop or similar psu. Will that be if any benefit with regard to health and safety?

[@acoustic61]

KZZGRRR! I don't remember looking at my Weller station and thinking "I wish my soldering iron would tell me what time it is?" I bought a Pace ADS200 but haven't used it yet. I'm thinking of selling it and getting a T12 iron for thru-hole and PTP audio repair work, so I don't have to worry about cost of tips. Because service work is rough on tips. I tend to pry with them to remove parts etc.

[@mksteezy]

Nice review. Gonna pick this up instead of the TS100.

[@robinsattahip6269]

I certainly like mine, it's branded Quicko, but the heat is right the heat is right there at the tip. It's so superior to the two 8586 units I bought before it.

[@travisfrost6508]

Hi John, I've been using this iron for a couple years and I love it. However, grounds do become an issue. Would I really notice a difference by stepping up to a better c245/c210 style ?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Don't know what "However, grounds do become an issue" means. Mine has no "grounds issue". No idea what a "c245/c210 style" is so can't comment. I intend to be using my T12 station for a long time still - it's bullet proof and works so well. 🙂 Totally your decision what solder station you want to use moving forward.

[@hodissergiu8883]

NTC's limit the inrush current (while the capacitors are charging, the input current is much higher than the nominal current). Basically when you turn on your supply the NTC has a high resistance that limits the current and as it heats up (the capacitors charged during this time) the NTC has a low resistance so it does not waste a lot of power.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Thanks for the info.

[@billcarson9565]

just ordered one now from amazon :)

[@roncooke2188]

John Yes tried new tip and have ordered the other part. also have 3 soldering stations ordered from aliexpress I a butane one as a backup

[@dleivam]

Very good review. My only problem with the soldering station is the oled screen based on my bad experience with my ts100. The oled screen died (1% visible) with few light use, just hobby, so after that I rather a simple lcd screen. After all this time since you made the review, is it still a good option? Is the oled screen still working?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Working fine - see update video.

[@dleivam]

@@Rchelicopterfun I've watched, thanks!

[@guuskoelman8254]

Hi John, 06-08-2020 Greetings from an model airplane pilot from the Netherlands. John, again the KSGER soldering station has safety issues. Could you review or give a recomendations. It was the Ksger T12 V2.0 STM32 Oled digital soldering station, kit version. Banggood deliver for various reasons the KSGER soldering station now in plastic housing. The main power supply board differ from the original board mentioned in your review in many way’s. On the back, the mains connector with ground is the same but on the inside ground is not connected to the power supply. Due to the plastic housing the green wire (ground) to the soldering iron is not connected to ground anymore and the 24 volt from the power supply board is a thin wire with a poppy connector to the front panel. The front panel is nearly the same as the panel you reviewed. Only difference was the thin cable for the 24 V to the power supply and poppy connector not fit for the job I think. Banggood sell often products in which the user must look through a safety eye. Look to You tube is not a bad proposal. Author: G.D. Koelman

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I don't know a thing about the other versions of T12's that Banggood carry. I chose and reviewed this version (the 2.01S) for the reasons I mentioned in the video. If you ordered the V2.0 kit version instead or they sent you the wrong version I can't do much about that. The link I give in the description is to the same one I reviewed (the 2.01S) and it's the same except they now come with the 907 handle which I mention in the description.

[@yahwho1989]

Has anyone tried the Hakko hot tweezers in it?I'm looking at Hakko just for Hot Tweezers as they seem to be cheapest decent ones?Thanks for videos.

[@HunWorship]

Thank you, i've watched this before buying, it's very good.

[@ShaunakDe]

The heatsinks goes over the mains trace right? Maybe that defeats the isolation a little bit. Worth exploring/ modifying I think. Also I'd just get rid of that battery.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I address the heatsink issue in the 1 year follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqqciIiqq8l1i80 The battery issue was fixed on all units a couple months after I got mine. The RTC power backup to the STM32 processor was accidentally grounded through a 10K resistor trace which is easily removed.

[@beforebefore]

5:39 OOPS... broke it! (not) That black NTC thermister on the power supply limits inrush current into the large filter capacitor... another sign of a good design. Without such, the input rectifier gets abused when the AC main s switch is turned ON.

[@kiwichess]

Did you check if the power supply priduces a lot of electric noise?

[@artal03]

Hi John, I've enjoyed your videos on the KSGER T12 soldering stations. Thank you! Partly as a result of watching your reviews, I purchased one from Banggood last autumn. I received a unit that was HW Version 3.1 / SW Version 3.1S . It works well with one exception. The RTC settings are lost each time I power off. Thinking that the battery was either not present or dead, I pulled the unit apart to investigate. I found a 3V coin cell with tabs soldered to the board and the battery is showing 3V when tested. Probing the circuitry between the (+) lead and the STM32's pin 1 (vbat), I found that there is no path between the battery and the VBAT input on the STM32. The 3V makes it to a small network of components that are marked D2, D3 and R20. Of these, only D2 is populated. The STM32 VBAT lead is connected to the distal side of the unpopulated R20 location. My initial assessment is that the absence of R20 is the reason why the RTC isn't maintained when power to the device is shutoff. I have been unable to find a schematic for this particular board. I was hoping that you might be able to shed some light on this subject. Does your RTC keep the date/time through a power off?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

The 2.1 version (the one in this review) had a short run of RTC batt issues (grounded batt), which I did a separate video on since mine had the issue, but since you have the 3.1 version, it's not applicable as they are completely different HW. I did get a 3.1/3.1S station a few months ago and did a review on it as well. No RTC dead batt issues with it at all. Perfect out of the box.

[@cmocmo2277]

John, I like your video. I worry after reading all comments and watching other videos, that as a complete newbie I would run into issues I could not fix or worse...safety issues. Anything comparable you would recommend that would come out of box that you could plug into an outlet with no issues?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yep, the Hakko FX951.

[@cmocmo2277]

@@Rchelicopterfun Wasn't expecting such a quick reply! I will research that model and confirm if they use similar tip technology that heats up fast since you seem to praise that a lot. It's too bad because in addition to the price point I like the look of the KSGER T12 better with the simple dial etc. Keep up the good work!

[@rjmcdon80]

Thanks for the videos that you have posted Re: the KSGER T12, they have been very interesting and informative. One thing that I haven't seen anyone address so far, is making the iron tip ESD safe. Have you done this and do you think that there is enough room in the FX951 handle to add a 1 megohm resistor between the tip and the ball switch?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

It is already ESD safe. The tips are earth ground through the green wire (9:04), provided the T12's C13 power cord is plugged into a mains earth grounded wall outlet. Should be enough room in the handle for a 1/4W resistor, not sure if there would be room for anything much larger.

[@rjmcdon80]

@@Rchelicopterfun I went back and checked USN ESD specs and the tip to ground test actually calls for

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Install a resistor then. Most ESD soldering irons I've used over the years / decades are direct grounded without resistance/impedance but that's what's great about these little stations, you can easily mod them as you wish. Grounding a soldering iron tip (at least what I learned in college), is primary to ensure there is zero voltage potential at the tip. This could be from either a short to the conductive tip from the within the heating element/wiring (in which case you would certainly not want any resistance to ground it out) or static build up potential in the tip.

[@cannesahs]

"

[@migui8850]

Thanks for sharing. I’ve been pretty interested in this station but I just watched a video that called it unsafe. What are your thoughts?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

My thoughts are accurately relayed in the video - I love these little T12 stations. Best soldering value & performance stations on the market. Perhaps you would be interested in my 1 year follow up video on it where I address questions just like the one you asked: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqqciIiqq8l1i80 The video is divided into chapters & the T12 topics start around the 5 minute mark.

[@discedoce1827]

great in-depth review. cheers.

[@mikesullivan5851]

Is the upgraded aluminum handle worth it?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I wasn't overly impressed: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKDXeWqpZ7l6j8U

[@raymondchan3587]

I remember someone said in KZbin that it is too tight and disappointed about it, is that John also?

[@Hack3rPT]

I wanted to buy a T12, but someone recommended me the T12 Mini, which is apparently the same station but you need a separate power brick. They also told me it is more stable then the big one, because of the power supply. Which one should I buy?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

It's the same thing less the built in power supply. Get whichever you wish.

[@cmocmo2277]

At 12:29 you pick up the control interface/brain box. My version does not have a capacitor on the blue board of the interface. All 3 versions including this version does have a capacitor. Is there something I should be concerned with?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No idea.

[@dbrown9347]

@John Salt. Any plans on reviewing the new 2020 version of this soldering iron? I'm looking to buy one and see there is a new 3.x version out.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Not really much "working" difference between the 2.1 & 3.1 other than getting three tips. I will consider it however.

[@bad001bd]

I would highly, highly encourage everyone to take a look at there soldering handle. I pulled mine apart and discovered the the red wire had completely disconnected and was brushing against the ground! That's a great way to start a fire or damage your fresh new station. As I needed to fix it with my other soldering iron, I'd encourage you to buy the upgraded handle along with this station or already have a soldering iron to repair the handle with. Additionally, my board revision is 2.04 and it looks to be nearly identical to revision 2.01 with one notable exception. They seem to have moved the battery to the top of the transformer, which causes the whole PCB to bend. You can simply take the battery off the transformer and tuck it away somewhere else in the case. Further differences from v2.01 include a connector for the controller power wiring (unlike what's hard soldered in the video) and some interesting componentry right near the little bull that runs to the c11 capacitor. There's now an LED and resistor (perhaps for checking the capacitor's health) and a rather large empty solder pad that has some flux. I'll include pictures of everything in the imgur link below. imgur.com/a/PjPQkqk

[@shimon2476]

thanks where did you purchase yours?

[@T.Lspitz]

John Salt @John Salt Between the 2.1s and the 3.1s, which one would you suggest is a better purchase?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

2.1s

[@T.Lspitz]

@Rchelicopterfun Thanks! Ordered one last night. I'm curious to see where the battery placement is going to be, as I've seen multiple videos and pictures each showing the battery might be placed in 1 of 3 locations. Anyway, thanks for uploading such detailed videos.👌 It's greatly appreciated.

[@solverz4078]

A chip just popped on me using this exact soldering station. The chip I am talking about is the one next to the top left of the big capacitor which is at the rear right of the station. It says R300 on it.

[@pietermostert5221]

Hi John I'll take your old iron off your hands any day. Learned my lesson with the new and very expensive kit.

[@skins4thewin]

Yup, my unit did that weird intermittent ERROR thing when I first turned it on too, thought something was wrong with it.

[@emanuelkszenics7689]

the error is because you didn't select the tip right, mine does the same if i use another tip and it's isn't selected properly in the menu, select the tip right and then plug it in and you won't get any error, i guess it's because the resistance of the tips may vary and it thinks the tip could be damanged or smth you can see in the video he use K tip and in menu it's selected bc1

[@skins4thewin]

@@emanuelkszenics7689 Right. Trying to remember what tip is abbreviated to what is the only thing I don't like about this unit. I always have to keep the manual handy or the internet to look up the tips. Maybe I should make a printout showing the abbreviations for each and keep that with the iron....

[@kyme32]

@@skins4thewin well, i fixed that issue by writing with a sharpy on the white end of the tip, it really helps alot with my poor memory for useless things, it would be cool indeed to change the settings automatically but for that price, i've could't ask for it. I'm pretty sure the error is due the fact that thermocuple/heating element are different in those tips, not only the shape of them, perhaps rewriteing the firmware from scratch could fix this pain in the butt(if there is an noticeable difference and consistence chart for resistence of those tips) but still, for how much i switch the tips, it's just a waste of time

[@skins4thewin]

@@kyme32 Wow, that's actually a pretty fantastic idea! I am gonna do that with the Sharpie, that should solve my dilemma. Thanks for the tip!

[@Qban220]

The wake up function is bit confusing on V2.1s. Switch mode works just like you described but on shake mode my iron does not go to standby at all, and if I turn it to standby it will wake itself up after 20sec or so. Manual mode works as it should and auto mode works like my shake mode. I might have some firmware issues or is it the same on all 2.1s?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No different version of firmware as far as I know. Sounds like a fault with the unit perhaps? I would have to test first hand to properly diagnose the issue.

[@dzmecano485]

I have the same issue as you. Did you found a solution please?

[@Bodhi1satva]

Thank you! Video has been so very helpful! Do you know where I might find a wake sensor/motion detector like the small green component in the handle? Mine pulled apart and I cannot seem to get any assistance or even a response through Banggood. Any direction here would be greatly appreciated.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Many sources have ball motion/shake detection switches such as electronic component shops, eBay, Amazon etc. Just search for "double ball rolling tilt switch." Many different ones come up. I think they are SW-200D tilt switches, but don't quote me on that.

[@Bodhi1satva]

John Salt Terrific, thanks again!

[@cubul32]

Thanks for the vid John - a Q as a first time purchaser. I used to solder as a kid with an old "pistol" type that my dad got - I had no idea what I was doing but it was working. I'm looking for a soldering machine for lightweight stuff (led lights for cinema, power cables, adding safety electronics to avoid frying my cameras etc - they come in packages, I just have to assemble). I googled a bit and fx888d comes up a lot. How does this machine compared to that, or yihua 939D+? My gut feeling is that this one is nice. I like the controls to begin with, and the size. The fx888d gives me a weird vibe, looking at others using it - seems too cumbersome with all those button combinations.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

@cubul32 - those two stations you mentioned don't use direct drive tip technology, they both use old school ceramic element slide on tips so there really is no comparison when it comes to tip thermal performance. I don't know a thing about the 939D+ as far as robustness or use as I've never used one. The FX888D however I do have experience with. It's a bullet proof station and is hard to beat in terms of robustness & ease of use in my opinion. It totally depends on what you're looking for in a soldering station, but what I can tell you is after using a cartridge / direct drive iron soldering station such as this Ksger; most people (I'm one of them) say they could never go back to an old school ceramic slide on tip iron. The speed, temperature accuracy & control, thermal efficiency etc; it all blows slide on ceramic tips out of the water. I go into much more detail on these soldering equipment basics on this page of my website if you wanted even more soldering basics info from irons to solder: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-soldering.html It's of course geared toward RC hobbyists, but there is pretty much 90% overlap between RC specific soldering and electronic specific.

[@cubul32]

@@Rchelicopterfun Really nice guide, thanks for that

[@cubul32]

@@Rchelicopterfun What would be the advantage of a 24V vs a 120-240V unit? Trying to figure out which one to choose. I see that folks use the 24V one to power off batteries. Would that affect the performance or it's still the same if on a battery?

[@cubul32]

@@Rchelicopterfun My bad, I see the 120V one has an integrated PSU. So the question is what is the difference between intergrated vs external PSU. Any advantage or disadvantage to either one, or they're the same?

[@CCellService]

I have 5 soldering iron station, hakko,yaxun,ksger,quick and one rechargeable quick soldering each of them have different tip for different work,with pack job everyday I don't have time to change tip so why not buy 5 instead 1 or 2..nice videos man

[@John_K-1216]

HI John, what equipment do you recommend for testing the soldering iron tip temperature so the TSGER station can be calibrated? Thanks again!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

If you saw the calibration video, I was using my DMM's thermocouple temp probe. There are however actual solder tip temperature testers which are better suited for this purpose. The Hakko FG-100 clones seem to get most of the love considering the good accuracy and low cost. For simple hobbyist use, the clones are fine by all accounts and what I'll likely get soon. Here's one at amazon: amzn.to/37CEmtS Here it is at Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/m3GmsDK8Gd

[@John_K-1216]

@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John. I ordered the one from Amazon - don't want to wait a month for it (from Banggood)!

[@annaplojharova1400]

The initialization is not the controller initialization, but the tip itself needs just a kind of initialization of the tip itself (looks like the internals are a bit hygroscopic or are treated by some storage treatment which has to evaporate first). Till it went through that, the thermocouple voltage is jumping all over the place, so the controller gets confused and sometimes it triggers an error. Have mine with a controller I designed and programmed myself (so I'm sure there is no "tip initialization" routine at all, just temperature calibration and in my case a fraction order PI controller with some fault detections), does the same thing when a new tip is inserted. After few seconds it stabilizes and works normally.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yes.

[@leeyounger2518]

The Link you provided for the tips appear to be lead-free tips, are you using these for leaded solder also? Thanks John

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I only use leaded solder.

[@leeyounger2518]

So just to clarify the lead-free tips from Banggood are fine to use with leaded solder? I don't intend to use lead-free. Thanks so much @@Rchelicopterfun

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Correct. Most quality solder tips are made from a copper core that is plated in nickel with the end of the tip plated in iron. The iron tip is then tinned with solder to protect it from oxidation. The "lead free" marketing, likely references the tips are tinned at the factory with lead free solder, but you can certainly use solder containing lead afterward.

[@leeyounger2518]

@@Rchelicopterfun Oh, that is really great information. This has always been something that conflicted me. I bought the KSGER based on your video. Keep up the great content! Thanks again 🙂

[@Ryan_Tidwell]

I did not see the rubber pad used to change the tips when hot. Does that not come with the station? Do you use something else or perhaps have a link to one? Thanks.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

At the low lost cost of these things, no, they don't come with a silicone grip pad. I just used an old silicone pot holder pad cut to size (the wife never missed it - lol). Lot's of options out there.

[@vicever08]

It is not initializing tip. It is the tip problem, original Hakko tip does not do that, maybe Hakko pre-stress the tip in factory or just has better quality. Many third party tips doing this, at least for those $3 tips, but they generally work fine after this phase.

[@DoctorThe113]

Would you recommend getting a ts100/80 instead of ksger t12? Since I will mostly solder perfboards. And I will mostly solder on the bench.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

If you are working mostly on a bench, nothing beats a soldering station IMO. Convenience, user interface, functions - all better for bench top work. I use my T12 90% of the time over my TS100, but I do the majority of my soldering projects on the work bench.

[@DoctorThe113]

@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for the suggestion.

[@DoctorThe113]

@@Rchelicopterfun one more question, how long a tip lasted for you? Did you need to change any old tips (because it broke)?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Haven't had a failed tip yep. All working great :-)

[@Michaelebills]

It is not being OCD... it is just future proofing and correcting it's engineering faults!

[@juancarlosrelloso1302]

Hola me gustaría saber porque has quitado el sensor, no es necesario ?. Quiero comprar este soldador. Quisiera que me contestaras. Muchas gracias

[@Call_Me_David]

At 20:07 on the "Standby Setup" screen, there's a "Switch" option. I know Hakko's have a stand with a switch that puts the iron into standby when triggered by the weight of the iron being inserted into the stand, and the station itself has a plug on the back for that switch to connect. I didn't see any additional plugs on this KSGER that would allow for utilizing one of those switches. Did you happen to notice anywhere on the control board that would allow for DIYing a switch hookup?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

The "switch" in that standby sub-menu selection is referencing the rotary encoder switch on the station. If it's selected, only turning or pushing the encoder dial will "wake" it up. There is no magnetic switch on the iron stand option. These T12 stations use the motion detection switch in the iron handle instead to show if the iron is stationary back in the stand or even lying on the work bench for that matter.

[@Call_Me_David]

@@Rchelicopterfun Ah ok, thanks.

[@eddnshoulders]

Thanks for posting this review. It's very useful for those of use considering buying one of these. Isn't a thermocouple a differential temperature measurement from the welded joint to the other end of the same special pieces of wire? I know if you create a joint to a different type of wire, then that joint is the other end of the differential vs the welded end. It looks like this is in the handle of these, as with most soldering irons using a thermocouple for measurement. So it sounds like using the thermistor in the handle for your cold end would be (potentially) the most accurate setting.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yes on all accounts.

[@AlphaCharlieFour]

Any tips on where to get good tips? Some of the sets on Amazon have bad reviews

[@Rchelicopterfun]

The T12 ten tip set I got from Banggood are all still working - not a single problem. I link to the 10 tip set I purchased when I got this station in the description.

[@robbyrock-drummer]

Im looking to buy a T12-D Soldering station (72w), but i want other tip, can i choose any T12 tip or i need to find a T12-D tip? Whts best tip for XT60 plugs and general rc use?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I like the D24 wedge the best for my mid size RC connectors like XT-60's.

[@rollyavecilla]

Yours does not do the infinite boot cycle. Where did you get yours? Which seller?

[@azam587]

I uave bought the same but the screen is really dim.. i don’t know if this with everyone

[@ulamss5]

would it be possible to get re-terminate a hot air attachment in this gx16-5p and have it safely work? I already have this T12 station with soldering iron, don't want to buy another whole "station" if possible.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No. 858 hot air guns work on line voltage (120/240VAC), will pull over 600W, and are Triac controlled. Totally different animal from these soldering irons that work on 24VDC and low current.

[@pierrestu6769]

Hello, sorry for the dumb question. I saw some T12 that came with a hot air gun on Aliex. Can i use either a soldering iron, either an air gun, on the same box with the same firmware in it?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

No. Totally different internals. Also the hot air gun need much more power and thus runs on 120 to 240VAC. The soldering iron on the other hand, only needs 24VDC. I cover this in the review I did on the KSGER 858D hot air review: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWKymn6cl8Rjg5o

[@pierrestu6769]

@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you! Is there a cheapo hot air gun station kinda safe for a newb?

[@roncooke2188]

Yes did the same with me with new tip but now ok great bit of kit i can solder much faster, £30 unit waiting to try a better one good video

[@originalfallinggirl]

This is the best soldering iron ever

[@beefyonyt]

Hey, I can't seem to find any information to figure out if this station is any good for surface level desoldering. I need to switch out a HDMI recompiler on my dead xbox one x and wondering if this would be any good or if I'm looking in the wrong place. If this is what I'm looking for, what other pieces of kit should i buy along with it? (Ie. The tips, holder etc.) Thank you very much!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

This or any half decent soldering station can perform SMD soldering work (tip dependent of course). Soldering irons/stations are more useful for soldering in SMD components or for reflowing QFP's or dips than they are at removing SMD components. I have no idea what an HDMI recompiler is, but if it has leads on it that can be accessed by the soldering tip you have in the iron, then something like this would likely work with desoldering wick and practice. If it's an SMD component with hidden leads such as BGA's (ball grid array), then a hot air rework station would be what's needed.

[@kevvywevvywoo]

thanks John, great review I've ordered one but the 24V DC type, as I prefer to source my own mains power supply from a UK supplier.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Good idea. That's what makes these things so cool, is just how configurable they are. Hope you enjoy your T12 as much as I've been enjoying mine.

[@joshm264]

@@Rchelicopterfun if you look on KZbin for "diy soldering Station" you'll find a whole ton of videos with the same t12 module in it

[@jussapitka6041]

On how low voltages does it work? Could I power it from an 18V battery?

[@marina3060]

Is there a newb guide on how to use one of these? I just got a v 2.0 in from Amazon but im to damage it or the tips ..

[@frankdaeran352]

Hi John, thanks for the review. Now that this KSGER unit has become popular due to KZbinrs and others reviewing it, and including affiliate links to Banggood, it seems all the links are to a unit with a cheaper 907 iron handle ? not the nice 9501 iron handle (@ 05:23 ). Recent pics of reviews on Banggood also seem to confirm this. EDIT: OK, I didn't see it initially but there is now a disclaimer on the unit at Banggood that says: "For orders after October 21, 2019, PLEASE NOTE that 9501 handle will be upgraded to 907 handle", so my mistake, I guess it's an upgrade? Sorry I don't know enough about these units to distinguish the difference

[@Rchelicopterfun]

By all accounts, the 907 handle is actually an improvement on the 9501. Some people were complaining about the plastic insert on the 9501 softening when tip temps were dialed up for long periods of time. The 907 cures that issue.

[@frankdaeran352]

@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks, so will that stand still fit with the 907 handle? Because the 907 handle looks like quite a bit larger diameter. Not sure it would fit in the stand you're previewing here.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Yes it does.

[@electronixacademy227]

When I long press the rotary encoder it isn't showing menu. Can you tell me how to go to menu setup ? Thank you in advance

[@BSOE3058]

I'm currently buying one of these but DC powered version, more possibilities.

[@jesseparris6507]

I saw this on this model selling on Amazon: "Due to the unstable resistance of the new soldering iron tip, the temperature will jump or ERROR, which is normal. After several times of use, the stability will gradually stabilize. If you mind, please do not buy. " Did you encounter this with this unit?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

As I show in the video. After the initial "tip learning" it never does it again for that specific tip and works great. Other's have all confirmed this as well, with even a few saying the Hakko does this is well with their T15 tips. This T12 station has been working great for over a year with almost daily use. Best soldering station for the low cost I've ever owned in my 40+ years of soldering and I would purchase another T12 today if this one failed just like I said in my 1 year follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqqciIiqq8l1i80

[@jesseparris6507]

@@Rchelicopterfun Yes you do talk about it! I left the video too early to go shopping at Banggood and missed it. My bad. The Bangood delivery takes over a month and Amazon has them for twice as much as Banggood. I want to spend under $60 and want it in a few days. What can I say, Amazon has created monsters out of all of of us. Do you have any of these new in stock?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I don't sell them. My last BG order a few weeks ago took just over two weeks to Canada - it's hit and miss right now. It's not Banggood's fault there is a world wide pandemic causing havoc with shipping logistics. Hell, a heli I ordered from the US back in late June took almost two months to get here by USPS. It was sitting in the Chicago sort facility for almost 6 weeks! If you want a T12 station on the cheap, then you have to put in the wait time - simple as that.

[@rollandelliott]

just bought one for $62 off amazon and it flashes error and the soldering iron does not get hot. any ideas what might be wrong?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Tip not inserted all the way in most likely.

[@michaelstewart7285]

Very good. However, mine reads K(0) whatever tip I put in, with voltage switch off. Any Comments please ?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

You have to manually select which tip you are using (time index 26:45). The "0" after the tip type means that specific tip has not been calibrated yet. Here's the T12 tip calibration process video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIG0oqODbbp9ipo

[@dazamad]

I have to ask. Mine came with a k tip but the device says j01. How does one sselect different tip in menu. I can only add or subtract with x or tick mark. Ive tried push in with the dialthen rotate. Doesnt change. I cant work it out. Thanks

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I show how to change tip type in the video at 16:50 (push encoder in, turn). You of course have to have different tips programmed into your tip inventory to select them. Perhaps only J01 is in your inventory and that is why you can't select anything different? If your T12 is not able to select the different tips you have checked off in your tip inventory, I have no idea why.

[@FullFledged2010]

3:00 You're not enjoying the peel off moment 🤔

[@mjc0961]

Peel off moments are overrated.

[@joshm264]

Mjc061 how dare you

[@aneeshprasobhan]

@@joshm264 lmao

[@soundpixel9867]

I ordered one as soon as I watched your video expecting a great product. I even used your link and got it from banggood. What I recieved is a brick. The unit arrived a bit physically damaged due to the lack of bubblewrap. I plugged it in and it keeps tripping my breaker panel. I have tried multiple outlets in my home all above 15amp. It trips without the iron plugged in. I'm not too happy considering all the reviews have been good.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Sorry to hear that. As you state, most of the time these stations arrive safe and sound and work very well. I'm so happy with mine after several months of fairly hard use now. As for it blowing the mains, that sounds like a plug short problem before the built in fuse. The little fuse in the back of the switch housing would blow long before the breaker would blow if the short was after the fuse inside the unit. Have you checked the fuse? Sound's like something pretty easy to diagnose and fix, but since it's likely shipping damage, you are better off contacting Banggood to get a new unit sent out.

[@soundpixel9867]

@@Rchelicopterfun they only offered me a $30 refund and that was very painful to get back. I will not be shopping at banggood anymore.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

@@soundpixel9867 So did you check the fuses? Again, sounds like an easy repair in the input side if it's blowing the main breaker.

[@untrust2033]

3:14 what was the beep? Why is there a red flashing??

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Sorry, don't know what you're referencing. There is no beep, nor is there a red flashing light at that time index. The only red light in the video is shown at time index 15:19 (the power LED on the PS board).

[@cannesahs]

@@Rchelicopterfun Most likely 33:14