How to Quickly Prepare Rocker Panels | Door Jambs for Paint

[@KWW0321]

I love Eagle Abrasives, with the exception of 3m cubitron rolls for my longer blocks I switched my shop over completely last year!

[@michaelmarusic8499]

👍🏻Thanks for the video, I’m working on my door jambs and this was help full. If you could do a video on how to get some warm weather that would be a bonus!!!

[@leighbratcher1998]

The Eagle abrasives look like the way to go.

[@michaellippmann4474]

Good job man and Thanks for doing the video... Just finishing off a 72 MGB Convertible - major rust repair panel replacement, floors, partial frame, rockers, etc. Your tips are always welcome! Mike 🇨🇦 🍁 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad the videos help - feel free to send me some pics of your project if you want. schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry

[@PeteR-or5kj]

Scotchbrite pads are so convenient for small areas and curves. One pad will last for a long time.

[@marcellemay7721]

Big difference in video and sound quality between your old and new vids. Keep up the good work.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're right - I started with a big old Panasonic PV-950 - the kind you wear on your shoulder :) Now I use a Panasonic HC-V180K - It's relatively cheap camera but super easy to use, wide angle lens, and a decent picture. Thanks Marcel - have a great weekend :)

[@bluesman6955]

Well done Jerry. You presented some good tips.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Bluesman - always good to hear from you my friend. How's your shop going?

[@bobvee5037]

Nice job Jerry! A good tip for using scotchbrite pads in tight corners is to fold them over an old warn out plastic spreader or credit card.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good tip Bob - thanks. Have a good week my friend.

[@vicshonebethel9934]

I love this video jerry thanks for showing me new techniques and ways to get the job than right 👨‍🎓👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Vicshone B - have a good week :)

[@J_R_Shop]

Thanks Jerry, as always, great video!

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

Great video Jerry...Have a good week!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You too my friend :)

[@davidbondy4359]

great job as usual have a great day my friend.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks David - you too :)

[@husky1239]

Thank you for all your tips I learnt alot from your channal Jerry stay safe

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Husky - have a good week my friend :)

[@rsonweb2060]

I will check out these sanding disk. I have door jambs and firewall coming up on my project. I'll be buying a new DA sander. Thanks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome RS - good luck on your project :)

[@StyleHouseRhythm]

I still don't understand why some manufacturers recommend using rivets over spot welds, but guidelines are guidelines. I agree with the process in your video, but I would also recommend using sanding sponges before scuffing. They're faster than using scuff pads, but also more costly. I wouldn't pay for them myself, but in a shop when it's provided, it can make your prep time quite shorter.

[@steveguest8028]

Great video Jerry 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Steve - have a good weekend :)

[@davidduffy2046]

Thanks Jerry

[@gm-lb9oe]

Thanks Jerry. I sure would like to try that, but don't think I can get that where I live :(

[@gabrielkoby6308]

You are more than welcome to use my 99 Tahoe to make some educational videos. Thanks for all the info you provide. I would like to get my Tahoe back into shape, and with all you offer us diyers, I think I can tackle most of the project myself.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's great to hear. Feel free to ask questions as you go or send pics to schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com You can do it - just keep at it. Jerry

[@lostjalopygarage8150]

Looks good!

[@kaisersozesua]

nice job!

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Nice job !

[@DCopp]

Love this! Great tips!

[@BruceLyeg]

Good tips

[@jeffreylonigro1382]

Nice work. You did a video on how to melt in clear using a final coat thinned heavily with reducer. Any help would be appreciated on where I could find that.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yep - kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5mmmahtpMerZtE check it out at 2 minutes and 29 seconds in. Also the tip was turned 90 degrees (3M Performance Spray Gun) so that the pattern is now horizontal :)

[@StoneyBrownTV]

I have a 2013 Ford Taurus Police Interceptor that I picked up and I have it sanded down after Rustoleum 2-in-1 Primer. I'm starting painting it with some advanced formula Rustoleum green. I would like to allow it to dry as much as possible. A week or so to sit since I live near Phoenix AZ. My question is can I clear coat it using Spraymax 2k clear (I use rattle cans since it's all I can afford for the foreseeable future) a week later? I'd imagine I'd have very lightly scuff it. Appreciate any thoughts or experiences you have with this. Thank you

[@williamwest5827]

Did you fabricate the metal putty knife? Can’t seem to find one like that. Great educational body work video as usual!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Here are some that are the same size. www.jbtools.com/gl-enterprises-1101-coster-steel-auto-body-spreaders-3-steel-spreaders-4/?wi=off&Google&gclid=CjwKCAjw3cSSBhBGEiwAVII0Z4xot3OoLrT9iwoyw0LxKwpyux8_X- Glad you enjoy the video my friend - have a good weekend :)

[@VegasRT500]

How do you know what brand or type of spray bomb primer to use when touching up smal break throughs? I am currently spraying Evercoat Superbuild primer surfacer so if I break through during finish sanding with 400 grit what type of spray bomb primer should I look to do touch ups? Your channel is awesome by the way and keep up the great work!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I've had very good luck with many different brands of cheap spray bomb primer. I've had no problem using this - just because it's so common and available at any hardware or auto parts store - www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/primers/sandable-primer-spray/ Glad you enjoy the channel my friend - have a great week Bazooka J :)

[@frock512]

Was dreading this part because I thought there was a certain way to do it looks like I just need to be patient and keep keeping on .

[@LakesideAutobody]

There's a ton of different ways to go but you do what will work best for your situation - your project.

[@73superglide62]

Gooda one pal

[@ze_german2921]

I want to do an all over paint job on my 97 Thunderbird and will replace the Factory red metalic with a GM Red which requires painting jams and all. I always hate painting the jams seppereratly because it always leave and edge from the clear. Is there another way to avoid this other than removing the doors?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I've seen guys mask it off perfectly so that the doors can be left cracked - thus you can open and close the doors during the paint job to do the jambs too. It is possible but tedious. I've never done it as I'm OK with the line. You can also put the tape right on the peak of a crown or edge then lightly sand and buff. Last there's a technique called back masking - you can find an example of this on YT I believe - it works pretty well to reduce that sharp line :)

[@PnwOnTour]

Did the rep get you on that interface pad? I remember you didn't have one, saves time huh.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I never had one before - you're right - good memory. It's great for contours and does speed that up nicely, but I'm not a big fan of the interface pad for block sanding with a DA. I like a firm pad on all blocks and DAs for blocking otherwise it will just follow the contour and not bridge it. When it just has to be buzzed down and painted they're great. Hope that makes sense. Always love to hear from you GMguy - I've known you for like 3 years or more now! Have a great weekend my friend :)

[@WilCoxon007]

What if you had epoxy as a primer, would you set the spray gun up or just put some rattle can primer for were you sander back to bare metal? I keep touching up epoxy with a brush but then wet sanding the brush marks for hours after

[@LakesideAutobody]

I would just use some spray bomb. Spray bomb primer is perfect for that - you can even buy expensive SEM or stuff made for auto body but cheap works just as well.

[@alconyers2003]

Scotchbrite and paint. If you got body filler you gotta block but just for normal resprays, scotchbrite works well. I know this was a paid advertisement but that was too much work

[@LakesideAutobody]

This is exactly how you want to prep this area. Scotchbrite pads work great but just for your hard to get spots. The reason you always use sand paper is scotchbrite pads don't knock down dust nibs in the primer - sand paper does. Hope that helps a bit :)