Land Rover Series 3 - Modifications to Make it More Usable

[@roddyk05]

It’s been many years since I owned my 1980 80” but here are a few things I did which made it better in my opinion. I fitted 750 radial tyres which rolled much easier and quieter that x ply and moving from a 600 to a 750 gave it longer legs on the road. Sure it didn’t accelerate as quickly but it was fine. This knocks the speedo reading out but as I had a LWB for spares I fitted the speedo head and gearbox from it - it also had a Fairey over drive which was a game changer. FWH’s we’re on it when I got it but remember and lock them up now and again to splash lubricate the innards of the front axle. I managed to get a 2.5 n/a from a Sherpa van which dropped in nicely and made a huge difference as it was a 2286 petrol until that point - power and economy. I fitted an electric Kenlow fan and did away with the viscous fan on the 2.5 (the bearing in the fan was on the way out so just went with the electric fan). Inertia reel seatbelts gave a semblance of safety and a smaller leather steering wheel gave it at least another 10hp 😂. Home made sound deadening made from a roll of recycled rubber matting covered the bulkhead and seatbox. Having 3 seats I fitted a MoD under seat storage box from the old 109 I was scrapping which was handy. In the rear a glued foam sleep mats to the roof and sides for insulation - I’m sure there are better products available nowadays. I’m sure there was more, like the new Marsland chassis and proper bulkhead repairs but I can’t think. It was a very usable and reliable vehicle which I’d happily take on a journey of a few hundred miles and even returned around 30mpg on the motorway which was night and day compared to the 13 I got when it was a standard petrol. Sold it once I had 3 Landys on the go and that was the one getting the least use but I wish I’d kept it.

[@restosaga]

Thanks for this! I do like the idea of a Sherpa lump so will keep an eye oit for one. Nice list of subtle mods!

[@seriesrover141]

Very nice Land Rover and good advice all around. Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video.

[@restosaga]

My pleasure, thank you for watching!

[@pauljenkins2501]

It's a lovely old Landy, and you're a lucky man to have one and to be able to drive it from time to time.....

[@restosaga]

Thanks Paul, I think so too!

[@RendellLean]

Hi could you please give the name and link to the led worklight. Thanks

[@restosaga]

Hi John. I bought it off ebay years ago so I’m afraid I don’t have a link anymore but it wasn’t a specific make or model, just a cheap and generic one if that helps. Thanks

[@jonnorousseau3096]

I did the following to my '79 109" panel van. Parabolic leaf springs and uprated OME gas dampers. This allowed for significantly better diff crossover. I replaced the old oil bath air cleaner with a Donaldson dry air filter fed from a snorkel. I replaced the old SU carb with a Weber Tipo 34 carburetor. I fitted a free flow 2.5" stainless steel exhaust system. I replaced the steering box with a period replacement as the gears and linkages were worn and added an uprated steering damper. I rebuilt the Salisbury diffs with new running gear and ball joints and added a centre differential lock. Fitted a BMW 5 series power steering system. The single best thing I did was fitting the parabolic leaf springs, 2 leaf on front diff, 3 on rear, load capacity of 2.5 ton but very much more comfortable than the old school leaf springs. I had manual lock free running front hubs already so that didn't need work I'd love to have fitted discs to the front but I had the drums very nicely balanced with new wheel cylinders and lines from the already installed uprated V8 servo assisted brakes. Miss my Landy, great vehicle that I regret selling

[@restosaga]

Sounds like it was a great Landy, nice one!

[@jonnorousseau3096]

@@restosaga still going strong, XCC390V from my research an ex British military ambulance, did duty in the Falklands, then sold off as surplus and ended up in South Africa after crossing Africa, it was the only 109' 3 door panel van in the country but it already had the V8 servo brakes, auxiliary fuel tank under drivers seat, locking front hubs and a bunch of spares, a broken chassis on the right rear hanger, but mechanically sound. I rebuilt everything onto a replacement galvanized chassis, kept the original 2 1/4 petrol engine and actually only replaced the oil pump, water pump and bored the cylinders out to 20 thou oversize and put new oversized pistons in, crank was in great knick as was the rocker assembly and cam, just polished them and all new bearings etc etc, head was in good condition, even the cast iron exhaust manifold was in good shape. Very sorry I sold it, but bought a yacht and got into sailing. Definitely do the parabolic springs.

[@shibaricognoscenti14]

I ran my 1963 Land Rover and did a lot to it that you have done. One thing you have missed is upgrading the brakes by using some long wheelbase brakes backing plate/drums etc. I also suggest a hidden 'pull' for stopping the engine. I could list a lot more.

[@restosaga]

Great suggestion, thanks!

[@gwizz9175]

Lovely series 3. Quite fancy one of these as a classic runaround. 😊

[@restosaga]

Thank you! Can’t recommend owning one of these highly enough!

[@sorenweisshartmann]

Would you have a link to the voltmeter you installed at the dashboard ? And do you need to do some additional modification to the wiring ?

[@restosaga]

Sorry, no, I stumbled across it on eBay! The wiring from the charge warning light was all I used, perfect!

[@svgrainne6030]

Love the video, just recently came into a 1975 series 3 with the 2.25 diesel. Could you go into the second Earth Lead installation? Does it lead directly from the Negative terminal to the Ground on the starter? Thanks for the help

[@restosaga]

Hi, yes, that’s right. Any good auto parts shop should be able to give you a length of appropriately sized cable with ends crimped on. Run it from starter to battery negative. Hope that helps!

[@sorenweisshartmann]

Good video with a lot of good ideas for upgrade. Thanks

[@restosaga]

Thanks for watching, glad to be of help!

[@davidyarra5648]

As an ocean sailer, I had to cope with lots of stainless on aluminium, particularly on the masts where all fittings are stainless. Comment is correct that they are a long way apart on galvanic scale hence prone to galvanic action via electrolysis. There is an expensive tube of tough weather resistant goop that I bought that electrically isolated a fitting from the mast.

[@restosaga]

Lovely, thanks for this!

[@paulpedersen295]

My experience in fitting free wheeling hubs to my 2A SWB made 1 mpg difference, from 17 to 18mpg.

[@restosaga]

Great, thanks for this. I’ve never got round to doing any measuring or calculating.

[@cormacsheedy1141]

Hey man your trailer looks great . Any more photos of it?

[@restosaga]

Thank you! There’s a full video on the trailer on the channel a while ago.

[@thomaswykes3647]

My two pence - FWH are dangerous off road. I had them and nearly lost control on a steep decent when one went pop. I reverted to normal drive plates and remain happy. The mod I can't recommend enough is an Ashcroft ATB pegged rear diff and HD half shafts. The axle goes from the weakest link to bombproof and goes well off road in just 2WD 🙂

[@restosaga]

Fair enough, sounds like a nasty experience! I don’t do a lot offroad myself but I think if I start doing more I’ll definitely be getting in touch with Ashcroft. Thanks for watching!

[@highdownmartin]

Don’t use GL5 gearbox oil. Or if you have to , axles only. It rots bronze. FWH are good. I stick mine in four wheel drove once a week or so for a few miles( hubs not being engaged ). It spins the front diff and flings oil round inside the axle, front uj’s and therefore top swivel pin and railko bush What they do help with is a smidge of mpg but mainly noise and vibration and very noticeably the steering-at low speed full lock I have an led repeater bulb in my texmagna indicator switch. It’s bright enough to see in daylight ( too bright at night really so I hold the wheel in a position to shield it) but importantly it’s a right pain to change that bulb!

[@restosaga]

Correct, the GL5 does not seem to agree with the bronze bushings. I’m a big fan of LED bulbs! Cannot wait to get my hands on some FWH

[@dieselbushcraft1299]

I’ve used manual locking freewheeling hubs on another 4x4 and they made a huge difference, it came with auto locking hubs but renowned for failing so fitted manual. As you say a little contravertial but if it’s you’re own can it’s your business. It gave me low box 2wd with hubs unlocked. Also when I’d had the hubs locked and then unlocked the car had a lot more go about it. So I’m guessing yours will be the same.

[@restosaga]

Think I’ll treat myself to some manual FWH for my birthday! Thanks for watching!

[@nickaxe771]

Owned my S3 near 50 years....bought it new age 23 in 1975. Had FWH more or less for ever.....its got to save on fuel....the engine is not turning part of the gear box....the front prop the front diff....the front drive shafts....and incurring no wear to those items. Also a big gain is less noise..... One thing I would not be without....the GB Spring parabolic springs.....no not perfect but way way better than std cart springs.....I prob would get an even better ride if I experimented with softer shocks.....I still run with the std shocks. I have converted the heater to ram air inlet.....with a 4ft length of 4 inch ducting....running from the heater box to behind the grill.....made an AMAZING DIFFERENCE......I can still use the blower but dont need to. The std air inlet is on the side of the wing.....what a crazy place to have it.....the poor heater blower really struggles to get any air due it location..... The original 2.25d was fully reconed at 100.000mls...TBH its was finished way before that milage.....it really is a poor excuse for a diesel engine....it then lasted a further 100.000mls giving around 24mpg...overdrive and FWH. Then I discovered the 200di conversion.....wow what was I missing....not near 40mpg on a run.....35mpg round town. And so much more power....as I say....its a DI....I removed the turbo.....didn't want anything complicated and expensive to go wrong.....and a SWB 88 dont need one. Msg me is you interested in my heater mod. Like you I soon found out the sealing of the heater box is poor....allowing cold air into the cab. My o/d has been sold....and a pair of 3.5 diffs fitted...gives same gearing as O/D high.....with not of its noise....and constant oil checks. The engine handle the diffs with ease. Nick in Cheshire UK.

[@restosaga]

That’s great Nick, thanks! Sounds your like your Series mods have been well thought out!

[@oldcarsnstuff]

Its been a while since i have been in the land rover world and ive recently been offered a 2A diesel. My first thought was to refuse as ive always felt they were too slow and not much more economical than the petrol. What would you say is your comfortable cruising speed and fuel consumption?

[@restosaga]

I’m a diesel fan but then I like an underdog. My average MPG over the last 3 years has been 24. Comfortable crusing around 50mph, not awful!

[@stephenhands2108]

Just curious, what are those seats have you have got in the Landy?

[@restosaga]

I got them from Sam’s Trim on eVay about 10 years ago, don’t think they exist any longer sadly!

[@vicious0005]

I would advise against stainless on the aluminium as they are dissimilar metals causing galvanic corrosion. Also your advise to use the most expensive oil is not great. When the car was made the oils were much lower quality mineral oils. This is what the engine requires, the more expensive oils often have synthetic additives which the series will not take well to. The best thing you can do is frequent oil changes.

[@restosaga]

Thanks for watching Bill. I said highest quality oils rather than most expensive, an important difference as you rightly reflect in your comment. With regards to galvanic corrosion, yes stainless will still cause it but so will zinc plated steel nuts so in my view I’d rather not have rusted fixings as welll as powdery bodywork. Thanks

[@vicious0005]

Restosaga Workshop the chance of a reaction with a zinc bolt is small. It’s guaranteed with stainless.

[@christopherwright815]

Stainless bolts & Land Rover body work do not mix well, use zinc plated or better still HDG, stainless is best only on steel to steel.

[@restosaga]

I agree but hopefully when I get round to tidying the Landy up I’ll rubber-washer all the stainless. Not a fan of zinc, never lasts!

[@jonnorousseau3096]

Same story with yachts, I used sikaflex 221 between all dissimilar metal connections, where that wasn't feasible I used an adhesive soft closed cell foam strip on both surfaces, another great product from my yachting experience is 3M butyl tape, absolutely brilliant product, another simple solution is 3mm water gasket rubber that can either be pop riveted or glued onto the surface. When I took the load body off the chassis all the lateral channel sections had corroded away at the points of contact with the aluminum body, I had to weld in new pieces of mild steel plate and then galvanized and powder coated them, used a bead of sikaflex and pre-painted the bottom of the load bed with stone chip primer, worked a treat, better than factory original, not that that's saying much......

[@HeinerStorchennest1]

Great vid with a lot of inspiring ideas. Is the voltmeter a genuine Smiths or Lucas one? Never seen before. How do you route the line of your worklamp to the front?

[@restosaga]

Thanks! The voltmeter is a Smiths one I believe, it came in a genuine LR parts box from memory. Not a common piece! No worklamo fitted yet sadly!

[@HeinerStorchennest1]

@@restosaga Thanks for the quick response. Concerning routing of the back worklamp line, I saw on another picture, that the doesn't run through a second bore in the panel, it seems to be squeezed between the rubber seals of the back door/ cat flap? As it becomes early dark in November, I struggle with drilling a hole into the roof-panel or backplate, while installing a rear lamp as you do. My 109 ex-mod doesn't has a reverse-light.

[@restosaga]

Sorry, I misread your first comment. My worklamp is wired to the rear fog lamp wiring which was already existing in my new loom. My LR doesn’t have a fog lamp so I used the wire for the work light. The switch for the headlamps was three-position on mine so I installed the fog lamp wire there and attached the worklight to the other end at the rear. I routed the wire from the cover in the rear tub to the roof but jamming it in the gap between the roof and tub panels. Hope that helps!

[@HeinerStorchennest1]

@@restosaga Thanks again. I am afraid, I can't squeeze the line between roof and - as you call it - tube panel.

[@MHAquaticsUK]

This is very interesting! Thank you very much for sharing!

[@restosaga]

Glad you enjoyed it, something similar for the Minor will be along soon!

[@jonkenwell5514]

Hi. Great video, really interesting. I’m particularly interested in the additional earth strap you’ve added. Have you just simply linked this between the battery negative terminal and a point on the chassis? Thanks

[@restosaga]

Thanks Jon! The cable runs from the earth on the starter to the battery. Really transformed the starter speeds!

[@jonkenwell5514]

Restosaga Workshop Hi. Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I’ll be sure to take a look at doing that. However, my S3 actually has the later 2.5 diesel NA engine - don’t think there’s much improvement over the 2.25 to be honest, but for the mileage I do, it’s perfectly fine

[@restosaga]

That’s the same for me, I do approx 1k miles a year, all just for fun really so upgrading for mpg isn’t necessary I feel.

[@Paul-sc6ic]

Do you have any idea of a part number or good keywords to find a similar volt meter to this? I can only find standard round ones. Also what happens to the charge light with this change?

[@restosaga]

Hi Paul. I actually just stumbled across this voltmeter by chance on eBay. Handily the charge light is removed and its wiring is directly used for the voltmeter instead. If I find/ see another for sale I'll be sure to post you a link on here!

[@Paul-sc6ic]

@@restosaga does that mean it only shows the voltage when the engines stopped? Mine only lights when ignition is on but the engine isn't turning. Good to know though, I'll keep an eye out from now om

[@restosaga]

No, it shows the voltage when the ignition is on (engine on or off), it’s great!!

[@Steve-bo6ht]

Really good modifications with having the vehicle for ten years your probably very well aware of the auxiliary sockets on the dash are a notorious shorting point, and had this dreadful burning out of my wiring loom due to fitting a 12 volt socket and the positive and negative vibrating together, I've since fitted a new wire loom and placed a thick piece of plastic in between the two terminals been fine ever since.

[@restosaga]

Thanks Steve and thanks for watching too! I’ll double check for safety’s sake but I think I have a good isolator between the two socket wires.

[@mattluszczak8095]

prob should of gone black for the additional earth lead?

[@restosaga]

You’re right, but I had red in the garage already!

[@BarryRowlingsonBaz]

I've added a battery isolator switch under the bonnet - I don't use mine much and there must have been some drain on the battery without it. I've also converted my "cigarette lighter" to a USB power socket for phones and GPS. Sadly the driveway is empty now because its at the mechanics having jammed in 3rd gear last week...

[@restosaga]

Those sounds like great mods! Hope you can get back on the road soon Barry!

[@PieAndChips]

Fairey overdrive is top priority if doing any sort of distance, as the engine wants to give more but is strangled by the gears. Freewheeling hubs will also increase driveability on road and should decrease fuel consumption slightly. Parabolic springs increase ride comfort a little bit and a twin leading shoe conversion on the front brakes will help it stop with more braking efficiency. There is no end to the mods and upgrades that you could perform to a series III, but it is what it is. If you want something more driveable, buy a 90/110

[@restosaga]

A good summary, thank you!

[@jonnorousseau3096]

Yip, parabolic leaf springs was a massive game changer for me on my '79 109" panel van

[@grahamturner2469]

Great video, I have a 1978 series 3 SWB I have been looking for a while now for the right LED instrument lights. I am in Australia, however I get a lot of parts from the UK. Can you help with information on where to get the LED globes please.

[@restosaga]

Hi Graham! I got my LED instrument bulbs from eBay, just generic items having looked up the original specs online. There are now dedicated companies that supply kits though. Better Car Lighting seems to get a good report!

[@grahamturner2469]

@@restosaga Thank you, I will have a look on e-bay.

[@steveplowman4005]

Hi I am in Aust also Classic Car Leds in UK great range and service. Cheers Steve

[@julianlord2697]

Different mirrors? Look like late Series 3 door mirrors, so much easier than the wing mounted mirrors

[@restosaga]

The late ones definitely work better but the early ones look so much better. Form over function!

[@samueltempleman7058]

Will you be doing a video on changing the swivels ??

[@restosaga]

Yes, definitely, will serialise the whole front axle rebuild here. Thanks for watching!

[@royhenderson4085]

Do you have a link or part number for the Aiko roof bars as I can not find them on their ebay shop.

[@restosaga]

They don’t seem to have any for sale at the moment from what I can see

[@williamcollier1993]

Hey there, I've been loving your videos having just purchased a Series 3 myself. For a very cack handed amateur, how hard are the rear bench installations? Also regarding servicing, how often to you check/change filters, plugs (injctors), oil? Thanks!

[@restosaga]

Thanks William! Everyone’s an amateur at the start, ignore the “experts” online!!! I learnt on the job and if I can do it anyone can. Depends how much you use it really. If you’ve just bought it I’d say to do a full service now. Petrol or diesel? I made a brief service guide video on here too. I service mine annually. Happy to answer any and all questions!

[@AlphaBravoV]

Luckily mine came with freewheeling hubs, but I think my best additions so far have been adding servo assisted brakes with an electric vacuum pump that is activated by the brake light switch, and changing the static seatbelts for retractable seatbelts.

[@restosaga]

Sounds like a nice set-up you have there, good job!

[@rickz9495]

Sweet Idea, but a pressure/vacuüm switch and a small vacuüm tank might be even better.

[@restosaga]

Agreed, very clever!

[@Dez456]

Fitting electronic ignition to my 2.25 petrol was by far the best thing that I did performance and starting wise to my engine. If I had kept it, I would have fitted a ported head with hardened valve guides. Free wheeling hubs are also good, just make sure to engage them ocassionally to get the oil swooshed around and lubing everything. Finally, if my Series was a daily and/or I towed with it, I'd consoder fitting a Zeus front disc brake conversion - mainly as they brake better, and there's no need to get under and adjust the drums..

[@restosaga]

Electronic ignition really transforms older petrol engines, agreed! The disc brake conversions look great though pricey!

[@ioanevans6125]

Hi there, loving the videos! I’m 18 and am looking into getting a series 3. Hard tops, as you mentioned in a previous video, are better value so I’m wanting one of those. What’s the deal with the rear bench seats and insurance/V5? Did you just install them and that’s that or did you have to inform the DVLA and insurance, if so, does it count as a modification? I’ll be going through specialist insurance and low millage as it’s going to be a project/weekend car. Cheers in advance.

[@restosaga]

Hi there, thanks for watching and I’m glad you enjoying the videos! All I did was tell my insurance company about the rear bench, it did not increase my premium at all surprisingly! Interestingly, did you know insurance companies class a towbar as a modification? I didn’t!

[@ioanevans6125]

Restosaga Workshop Excellent! A Hard top it is then! I didn’t realise the tow bar was a modification, that is interesting. Thanks for the heads up, I’ll have to declare the tow bar once I’ve got the car!

[@restosaga]

Happy to help, all the best on the hunt for a good one!

[@rhiantaylor3446]

I enjoyed the video but you should read up on the side mounted rear seat. Especially when used with a lap belt it, can be rather nasty in a frontal bump.

[@restosaga]

As it’s original equipment it’s easier to insure. Three pointed seatbelt will behead the user in an accident so the lap belt is better than nothing. Thanks for watching though!

[@Pinzpilot101]

Not controversial....I have owned 7 Series Landrovers and I learned early..Fit an extra Earth lead...not expensive but means if it is in good condition...it will start every time with a 10 seconds heater plug application even in the deep minuses.

[@restosaga]

I have a second earth on this and it’s a great job!

[@Pinzpilot101]

I see you have an overdrive fitted....When new these Fairey overdrives were recommended for use in all gears, effectively giving you 8 gears to play with....ever heard of a twin stick?? ask an old time trucker or look on YT for vids....The OD can be fitted (as I did) with a long stick (you will have to angle it just right and it will act like a 'splitter' or 'two-speed axle' of course it operates differently, but gives the same effect...In reality you will only use the top 3-4 of them...but....well just watch some twin stick vids and you will see how it can help.

[@restosaga]

Thanks Stephen, I’ll look into these!

[@seanmcintyre3986]

Free wheeling hubs create wear, propshaft splines, railko bushes and crownwheel rust are common on vehicles fitted with fwh, I've seen this too many times over the last 30 years working on series landies. Free wheeling hubs belong in the bin.

[@restosaga]

I suspect all these problems are secondary to not locking the hubs occasionally to allow the oil the circulate?

[@seanmcintyre3986]

@@restosaga absolutely, people are lazy.

[@kB-rr9xy]

Land rover 110 👍

[@restosaga]

Hard to beat!

[@johncampbell7525]

Good video. But, that red ground/earth lead makes my brain cringe. : )

[@restosaga]

It seems to have caused some cringing in general haha

[@ronnieg6358]

Why use a landrover for long distance motorway driving they're noy meant for that.

[@restosaga]

I don’t. Some do though, so each to their own!

[@nickboylen6873]

Why not, if you like the vehicle? Some people can’t afford to run a fleet of vehicles for different purposes.

[@restosaga]

Agreed!

[@ronnieg6358]

@@restosaga You wouldn't expect to tow a horse box over a field with a sports car.

[@restosaga]

Fair, yes, but then if it’s your vehicle you can use it as you see fit. There’s a racing Series 3 88” I’ve seen about. They weren’t meant for that either, but why not if that’s what they want to do!

[@Coordinator61]

Best upgrade is a 4x4 on coils. These old leavers are awfull on the road.

[@restosaga]

I cannot agree with this. Well maintained leaf springs are absolutely fine.

[@Coordinator61]

@@restosaga untill you ride on coils. Or decent parabolic leaves. Standard landrover are no springs just dead metal. Technique from the wild west.

[@pierluigiippoliti5534]

are you really use earth cable RED? in Europe is BLACK and positive RED…. are you American?

[@restosaga]

No. It is what I had spare in the garage. Who cares, I am the only one who ever fixes this vehicle!

[@pierluigiippoliti5534]

ok sorry i was just wondering…