Land Rover Series - Door Frame Repairs

[@tracymodin-mangone8674]

Great job, I'm impressed you managed to weld such thin metal with an arc welder.

[@garyjones3190]

Nice job, been meaning to do my for the last 8 years or more now, maybe this winter will be the one. The door bottoms you took off look 10 times better than the ones on mine.

[@steamwally]

Thanks Gary, must admit they really weren't that bad, but I wanted to do it whilst the repair was easy. I still need to do the back door or renovate the cat-flap... can't decide which will be most useful!

[@odc43054]

Nice work as always, Phill.

[@steamwally]

+odc43054 Cheers, thanks for watching.

[@Alex-ku9rw]

I fitted my new door to my series 3 last year, it was in a terrible shape. A previous owner had welded on 2 plates to hold the door top on as both bolts had rusted away completely. It was so weak afteri replaced it I gave it a gentle push and it folded over and near enough fell off. The frame that you repaired looked ok from above but underneath was completely gone. You did a good job welding by the looks of it. I'm getting an arc welder soon so i might have a go at this job as a practice, i do still have the old rotten door hopefully i can make something of it.

[@paphotography5183]

nice video bud, I've got a 110 which I'm currently restoring and an old transit. Tons of welding but I love the old landys. Good job mate

[@steamwally]

Thanks, it beats sitting in front of the TV doesn't it!?

[@douglasmartinez2756]

Great job!!

[@steamwally]

thanks!

[@joshonthetube]

Looks good! I pulled some body panels off an aluminum bodied car once, and found that galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and steel mainly seems to happen when you get aluminum touching steel and it gets wet. In other areas they touched each other for decades with no problem at all. So I would suggest being generous with the seam sealer and minding the drain holes!

[@steamwally]

+joshonthetube Thanks you. That's certainly what I have found, there are (were!) a couple of small mud shields underneath, near the rear cross member but the steel rotted out around the ally rivets and fell off with a clang.... never did find them!

[@martinsmith1447]

Nicely done fella'

[@steamwally]

+Martin Smith Thanks Martin

[@patrickdarcy3863]

Good video thanks. My 2003 Defender 90 has riot on the bottom of both doors that I will do in the summer. Is it hard to re fit/hang the doors after? thanks Patrick

[@idontcareaboutyou7757]

what kind of welding you using? doesnt look a classic MIG. Thanks

[@budvar45]

Just a bit of constructive criticism here. Next time you do one, you might want to anneal the bottom of the door skin as sometimes when you bash them back over, they can split along the fold. It's easy enough to do, just paint on some fairy liquid on the inside and (Carefully) run a blow torch down the other side until the washing up liquid turns brown. Bending it back and hammering it home will then work harden it.

[@steamwally]

Thanks, I'll remember that one. what's the science behind the washing up liquid?

[@budvar45]

When it goes brown, the ali has got hot enough to anneal it. Ali doesn't go red like steel does to judge temperature, it just melts when it gets too hot.

[@steamwally]

+budvar45 makes sense, thanks for getting back to me.

[@leoworrall9449]

what size welding rods were you using for this repair ?

[@steamwally]

1.6mm

[@leoworrall9449]

Thanks. I just acquired a series 3 and I have a feeling your videos are going to be pretty helpful over the next few months. Keep up the good work.

[@Alex-ku9rw]

What door hinges did you order? I originally bought the britpart ones which was a mistake. Bolts were too short, hole in the hinge was too small, they rusted very quickly and had more play in them than the knackered ones i took off!

[@steamwally]

+Alex I bought a set of 4 hinges and fitting kit on ebay, they came wrapped in brown paper rather than a blue box - seem good quality. From Foundry 4x4. Phill.

[@Alex-ku9rw]

Yea that sounds the same as what I got. I did look online people seemed to think they were alright but I must have been unlucky

[@rich3500]

Another ace repair job, your 109 will be the best Series on the road at this rate! I didn't think you could arc weld steel only 1mm thick, could you tell me what size rod you used and what the welder was please? Thanks.

[@steamwally]

+rich3500 Cheers Rich, It's getting there slowly... (as always!) and is a world apart from what it was a few years ago. Plenty more to do yet.... The arc rods are 1.6mm and the welder is a basic budget arc welder, 55-130amps. Can't remember the model but it's marked SIP, I think the door frame was about it's limit for sheet metal. I have found the trick is to weld in short bursts, keeping the heat to a minimum - never the neatest welds like that, but it get it done. All the best, Phill.

[@robstone661]

hi steamo , great videos .I've just got a 1975 swb landy and am learning loads and gaining the confidence to tackle stuff due to your videos . can you recommend a decent budget welder ? mig or other . lve seen a wolf pro turbo on ebay . it would be for footwells and bits . cheers mate , keep em coming

[@steamwally]

Thanks, sorry I never replied to the comment sooner! I now use an ancient Oxford 110amp oil cooled transformer arc welder. It's good for the heavy fabrication jobs as well as sheet metal but I'd say MIG is a better option if you will be mostly welding Landy bits.

[@darrenmicallef]

great job! did you fabricate the steel frame section which you welded on, or did you manage to source it/salvage it from another door?

[@midgoog2]

SERIOUSLY a sunvisor in England ????? Cheers from Downunder Eric

[@steamwally]

+midgoog2 Sunvisor/ rain deflector! I thought the English bought the most convertible cars of any country in the world? We're an optimistic bunch....(sometimes) Cheers! Phill.

[@mivecize]

How not to repair your doors 😂😂😂