Powder Coating With Lasers..Kinda | A New Way To Fill Your Engraving With Vibrant Color

[@imperlast2]

as a former powder coater this is one of the best descriptions of powder coating iv seen and for temp its normally around 400 and for 20 mins

[@LaserEngraving911]

Im Flattered! Thanks! 😁

[@KenFullman]

@@LaserEngraving911 The link to your sample pack, in your description, no longer works. You might want to update that.

[@lissy6213]

So I tried your technique with a 5.5 W diode laser and embossing powder for paper crafts and it worked too😊 thank you for the inspiration to give it a try

[@LaserEngraving911]

Your Welcome!!

[@djjohnny8149]

Would you share the settings you used with your 5.5 Watt diode laser? I have a 5.5 watt diode laser also and it would give me a nice starting point. Thank you in advance!

[@lissy6213]

@@djjohnny8149 Settings: 2.800 to 3.000 speed and 20% power. I‘ve tried different embossing powders and achieved the best results with crafts & co powder. Just make sure to clean the laser afterwards🙂

[@cathymyers7831]

Do you have a picture of your paper creation. I am curious to see the laser used on paper. Thanks!

[@lissy6213]

@@cathymyers7831 No, sorry, I used the embossing powder (for paper crafts) on plywood, maybe it was unclear🙈

[@thetruthserum2816]

Awesome idea! Make sure to "turn off the air assist" before you run it, or the powder will go flying!

[@timberry7832]

Being a former printer for 30 years, I been looking for something I can do on my own that I could be good at. This could be it, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Best Wishes, Tim

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thanks Tim!

[@dian3145]

The Alton Brown of lasers 😀 Love the addition of the science behind how things work. In the middle if a bing!

[@LaserEngraving911]

😀

[@jemlittle1787]

Best thing ive seen in lasers for ages

[@LaserEngraving911]

Awesome

[@LeonvanZyl_birder]

Your drawing of the powder coat paint-gun made me laugh so hard I almost fell of my chair!! 😀 very funny, but the idea is awesome! Will definitely use this idea somewhere...

[@LaserEngraving911]

Ahhh Thanks!

[@josiahdegroot5341]

Make sure you are wearing a respirator! The dust is so fine and the fumes of the melting plastic are highly toxic.

[@kenthomas4479]

but not many will listen to that type of warning, even when this guy even says at start he is not a expert.. too bad he showing to use laser when theres a easier way

[@Sakura0754]

​​@@kenthomas4479He's showing what people can do with a laser that people already have. How else would you do this without paint using a laser cutter? Without using a blowtorch and sanding

[@SteveBatsford-tp1ho]

I watched this video then bought some small jars of powder paint. Just finished my first trial. It came out great. I did 2 coats and it filled nicely. Although 1 coat was good, 2 coats covered the wood grain better. I'll be trying a multi-color design next. Thanks for the video!

[@LaserEngraving911]

That's awesome!

[@deborahzorn7549]

Steve, where did you buy the small jars of powder paint? Thank you!

[@melgross]

I do powder coating on equipment I build. It’s a great way to protect the surface. I have a bad habit of buying new colors. I must have over 100 by now. By the way, generally, mixing colors doesn’t work well for normal coating for several reasons. I’m thinking of buying a laser engraver. Not for pro use though, just to engrave parts and such. You can fill metal with powder. The metal can be sprayed on the surface, and removed as you do it. Then can be placed in the oven, or heated from the front on a low air setting and around a 600 degree setting on the hot air gun. Wave it back and forth about three inches away from the surface for several minutes after it melts. That heats the metal too. I engrave mechanically and so get a deep cut, around 0.03”. I don’t know how deeply the low power engravers would engrave. But you can paint on the surface just by coating it with powder, using the laser to melt it, remove the excess and then heat as I said above. That works. I’m looking forward to trying this.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Awesome!

[@prpman99]

Have you tried using the "print and cut" option in lightburn? Would allow taking project out of laser, apply powder and then returning to laser. I have an xTool D1 and will attempt this process. As previously noted could be an issue with the fan in the laser head. Will see. Thanks though, like the process.

[@gordonrain7152]

Howdy pard' For the record I've watched a few of your videos and genuinely appreciate your 'brand' of sharing the information you do with us heathens. And you do a fine job of speaking in a non-condescending tone as well. Kudos for that. Your technique share in this video is one I've already brain-bashed a wee bit myself...you just did the precursor work for me and again, that is appreciated. As a now retired Architect/Engineer it is my curse to pick apart techniques. And the only critique I have of your methods are the physical contact with the project whilst drawing the "hard card" across the face of the piece. That is the only primary weakness in your methodology. You were obviously adept at doing so but it would be so easy for the piece to move ever so slightly. For me personally that's not an issue because I secure my pieces down using a woodworking technique I'm used to using but others should be wary of that ever so slight direct contact. It also appears that the colourization shrinks down below the surface (which is good) allowing for top coating the final piece. MANY thanks for taking the time to share this with the rest of us and confirm my theory at the same time....because of your efforts, I will be Subscribing!

[@LaserEngraving911]

Excellent feedback thanks!

[@AxGryndr]

If you are concerned about movement, you could always take a queue from us CNC engravers and use some of that blue masking tape, CA glue and accelerator to make double sided tape. This way you'd have a simple hold down that won't get in the way and it easy to remove when you are done.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Yep, great idea as long as its easy to remove and clean up sounds great!

[@AxGryndr]

@@LaserEngraving911 You put one piece of blue tape down on your bed and one piece of blue tape on your material. The CA (super) glue you add a line our two on the tape you placed on the bed, away from the edges so it doesn't squeeze out. On the tape on your material you spray the activator. On most material the activator doesn't leave any residue but always test first. Then you line up your material over the tape on your bed and press down. The activator and CA glue react in a few seconds and bond together. It is surprisingly strong for just being masking tape. When you are done, a little force to pull away and the tape will let go off the bed or the material first and then you peel off the other. Most painter's and masking tapes leave little to no residue unlike other double sided tapes.

[@TheKojak76]

I second this hold down method. I use the tape hold down method for both cnc carving and laser engraving. I haven't tried the powder coat filling yet but it looks like it's a great option to doing epoxy inlays. Thanks for the idea. I wonder how cerakote would work. 🤔 that would open yet another possibility, perhaps even be the answer to filling metal since they have some that require low or not heat.

[@ChunkyJo]

This is an absolute GAME CHANGER We just tried it here at work, and have basically thrown the entire day away playing with powdercoat in the machine.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Nice!!

[@johnsmith-000]

This is really a fantastic idea. Much like Tim below, I'm a former screen printer of 20+ years, and screen printing is an area where you have to improvize with materials and inks, invent jigs for different objects etc. Still, although I've bought a number of powder coat paints and the gun you described accurately enough, and that I do have a K40 laser, I never thought of trying this, and I can't wait to try it. I'm really happy I stumbled upon your clip, thanks! I liked it and subscribed, don't want to miss the next idea:)

[@LaserEngraving911]

Awesome!

[@nathanwolf5547]

I am just starting out with laser so this has given me a view of the future. Thank you.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Great Glad I could help!

[@thethriftychristian82]

This channel is growing because of your innovation. I have been researching lasers and was looking to find a way to make leather patches with color. So hopefully this will work on leather. If so then I'm all in!

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thank You for the support, I did mention I tried it on leather and my results where not that spectacular, but maybe you can keep tinkering with this process as a starting point and get it the way you want. Good Luck.!

[@paulbavington4196]

@@LaserEngraving911 I'm going to try creating a leather emboss/deboss die, stamping the leather with a press, filling the debossed area with powder coat and then trying a melt run with the laser. Could export the die file as SVG and then invert it for the color melt.

[@ZERGG0]

This an awsome and really sucessful experiment. Great result! Thank you for sharing 👍

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thanks for watching!

[@KodyWebb]

pretty good drawing for upside down!

[@bginn3448]

Hey Steve, I saw another video using powder paint, but they used the heat gun rather than the laser for the melt pass. Looking at both processes and sleeping on it LOL, I have decided that the laser second pass is the best for me. The reason I say this is because using the heat gun does not have the heat control the laser does, which allows the residual powder (outside of the engraved area) to attain some heat from the gun and melting that residual paint into the wood depending on the type of wood and it's inherent grain pattern/depth which then creates another step in order. to remove that residual melted powder. I would prefer not to have another step in the process! I know that you can mask in order to keep that from happening, but that is an extra step as well. I do understand that using the laser pass for heat requires the product to be stationary but I have no problem accomplishing that. At least others do have another choice to help make their final decision. So, I thank you for your expertise and all that went into this process and time you have spent doing so.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Appreciate you pointing that out in such detail I feel the same way, but people are going to do what they want, and if they want to use ovens and heat guns.. then that is what they will do. :)

[@bginn3448]

@@LaserEngraving911 Yes they will. Welcome to planet Earth (-:

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

Absolutely amazing, thanks for all the hard work in revealing this....Plenty of new options with this now. Incredible.

[@cathymyers7831]

Like the final look of the painted engraving. Your video was great!

[@ThomasEWalker]

I'm jumping into engraving as hobby, maybe side business, and your sample pack is perfect for experimenting! It's on the way! Thanks for doing that. I used to run a graphics studio plus did screen print production for a while, and I'm looking forward to getting back into production.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Awesome!

[@designer-garb572]

This opens up a world of possibilities, what a cracking idea

[@LaserEngraving911]

Nice!! Thanks for that!

[@josephosorio5718]

That is great. I experimented with this a few months ago and had some success with white tile. Your technique here should make this much easier and better. Oh, the powdered paint sticks very well to tile. I will try working with acrylic next. Thanks for the tips and instructions.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Nice one!

[@kennuimuffins2426]

Very interested in knowing how this does on acrylic. I'm going through various infill techniques for acrylic a nd most of them just don't work that well. Some require too much time/labour to get a good result.

[@LaserEngraving911]

@@kennuimuffins2426 This one works pretty good, I also like masking and using acrylic paint for filling acrylic, I have a video on that way too. Thanks!

[@poshpol]

Did you do it in two passes on the tile? Engrave the tile, put powder and re-engrave?

[@josephosorio5718]

@@poshpol yes. But the second time around I greatly reduced the power and turned off the air assist.l, so ad to not blow the powder off the tile.

[@lisakingscott7729]

Great idea! It struck me when I saw this that you could do a sort of laser version of silkscreen printing on metal. Using a normal powder coat gun, coat a piece of metal, then use the laser to selectively cure the powder to produce the desired 'print'. The excess powder could be brushed off for reuse. I came across this video looking for laser cut polyimide (heat resistant) stencils to produce lettering using powder coating. However this method looks easier. A couple of points to note however. 1. Powder coat plastics are usually thermoset, rather than thermoplastic. I.e. when they melt and fuse together, they undergo a polymerisation reaction which sets them solid. Heating them again does not melt them. Thermoplastics can be melted again. The other point is that powder coat paints take time to properly cure. The manufacturer's data will normally specify a range of temperatures that it needs to be 'cooked' at. The time is usually around 10 minutes. 2. Using the laser going as fast as you show may melt the powder, but it might not cure it. Depending on the powder type (polyester or epoxy are common) acetone can be used to test whether the powder is cured. Acetone will not affect properly cured powder coat (although some epoxy type are soluble in acetone even when set), but uncured powder coat is soluble in acetone.

[@LaserEngraving911]

The laser wont bond it to the metal. Cool Idea though, yes correct on the curing, the laser does not cure the powder, to do that you would have to place your object in the oven, which is dicey depending on what the object is you engraving. a piece of wood probly ok, someone's jewelry box prob not ok. Im glad my video got you thinking in new creative ways! Thank you for commenting.!

[@ozloya]

Hey, cool technique. Thanks for sharing. I've tried on leather before and works well, also on painted MDF. Tip: You can apply the powder without the first engrave and the melting plastic bonds to the surface.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Cool, thanks

[@DannyMcLaneDC]

That was my question! Thanks so much

[@Patron77770]

Like on acrylic ?

[@ozloya]

@@Patron77770 Works too, a bit smelly tho.

[@The57MetLady]

Daym I am blown away!!!! Hadn't even contemplated this process, been using acrylic markers.

[@johnsimpson99]

Awesome! Just tried a test piece and it worked great after a bit of trial. Going out to get some more colors tomorrow! Thanks so much for the video. And yes, like you said below - NO air. I normally have about 4psi on with air 'off' just to keep the lens clear but even that was enough to blow the powder away.

[@LaserEngraving911]

That's awesome, 👏👏

[@johnsimpson99]

@@LaserEngraving911 Been playing with the technique all afternoon, just realized if you defocus the laser by a few millimeters, the powder coat looks much nicer. I only have jet black to play with right now but the defocused test looks much better than all my other ones.

[@LaserEngraving911]

@@johnsimpson99 That's awesome, always nice see see more innovations!

[@colleenkidd956]

Doesn't it hurt the laser to turn air assist completely off? I have a Thunder and have read so much about the risks

[@jaredfillingim2282]

@@colleenkidd956 With the powder coat, you’re not really engraving. Normally the air is to keep fine particles, smoke, and other debris out of the nozzle to keep it clean. Once you get to the powder coat, the laser power is meant to be so low, you’re not engraving, but just melting the powder paint. There shouldn’t be any debris whatsoever, so in this case it should be safe.

Usually these powder coats do not need to be fantastically high temp to cure. You can do it in a regular oven. I wonder if metal would be practical if object is heated up to temp first then trying to powder coat it. I guess the powder could melt on the metal if it is too high temp.

[@LaserEngraving911]

in theory yes, but you would have to follow all the same guidance for regulars powder coating. Cleaning, prep, and so forth

[@kathleenedwards3491]

This is absolutely the best engraving idea I have seen yet!! I am new to the engraving world and am also an Epilog user as well!! Thanks so much and look forward to more great info from you --- thank you :)))

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thanks you for your support and kind words, hope you have fun with this method!!

[@christophergilpin7909]

this process has saved me several days from having to mask, clear coat, paint the products. THANK YOU!!!!

[@LaserEngraving911]

amazing!

[@grootjnr]

Awesome idea. I cannot wait to try. One question. Do you turn your air off when doing the powder part? Otherwise would the air flow blowe the powder out? Thanks

[@LaserEngraving911]

You must turn off all air assist for this to work, there can be no fans of any kind blowing on the powder while engraving.

[@icmpeko]

Nice! I think I'll try running job 1 to engrave recess as normal (with air assist on) and then run job 2 (same art) w/ color mapping in the Epilog driver turned ON: set with the 13%p/90s/400dpi (or equiv for your machine) and UNCHECK air assist... 💗🐰👍

Waow ! If anyone reading this knows a provider in France, i am interrested. I asume you deactivates air assist, when available, or it will blow the powder instead of melting it ?

[@LaserEngraving911]

Yes, the air assist and fans need to be off. for this to work. Not sure about suppliers in France for powder coating paint, but I know you can find it! Good Luck!

[@aaronalbee9080]

I decided I wanted to build cribbage boards in my garage and have been trying to figure out a cool way to make colorful tracks. This video solidified my decision to buy a 10W diode laser which I just got all set up... Super excited to give this a go! Thank you!

[@LaserEngraving911]

Glad I could give you some ideas!

[@merophosis]

How did that diode work out for you? I ask because the diode lasers have a cooling fan that usually blows down into the subject you are lasering, so I am worried that the poweder will blow out of the engravings.

[@aleksanderchojan2128]

I wonder which settings are the best for 10W diode laser. My powder arrived today and I’ll give it a try tomorrow 😮

[@maksl7389]

@@aleksanderchojan2128 let us know how it goes!

[@aleksanderchojan2128]

Ok guys, this method works with Creality 10W laser module. I made speed/ power test grid and it seems that the effect looks better on higher power/ higher speed. I guess it’s because of higher penetration

[@inc55]

Fantastic video. Would staining the wood be possible and applying the powdercoat?

[@LaserEngraving911]

Yes, absolutely

[@LightPleasures]

Super idea! I'm waiting on my sample paint to arrive and I will be video taping the process. I will be using a 15W Diode laser so my results will be unique. I will post a link to it once it's done (successful or not).

[@LaserEngraving911]

I think alot of folks would love to know! if the diode laser works, if it does that's awesome!

[@themidniteryder]

I have the Atomstack x7 Pro, and I would think the cooling fan on to of the head might provide enough draft to give issues on blowing the powder out. Certainly worth a try though.

[@LightPleasures]

So I have an Ortur Master 2, 15W engraver. I've been 'experimenting' with the powder coating paint I bought from you...(I'm going to need to order more soon). I managed to find a perfect solution to the cooling fan 'issue', which I figured out from the start. I'm in the process of recording video of my process and I'll be providing a link back to this video so others can buy your paint samples and begin their journey into painting by powder. Once I get my videos done, I'll launch my KZbin channel starting with this process. Thank you for sharing!

[@LaserEngraving911]

@@LightPleasures great! I'm sure all the folks who have diode lasers will be stoked!

[@aleksanderchojan2128]

@@LightPleasureshow did it go?

[@AllenMassey]

I assume you need to turn the air assist off to keep from blowing the powder around, have you had any issues with the focal lens after doing this? Just a bit worried that the fumes from the paint melting may deposit on the lens.

[@LaserEngraving911]

yes, def turn off the air assist for sure, and no issue with the fume getting on the lens, my exhaust system pull those back and away from the lens. 😎

[@melissahumes4912]

@@LaserEngraving911 I tried to turn off my air assist in the layers section of lightburn and it still blows the powder coating out of the engraving. Any suggestions?

[@christieclayton2909]

@@melissahumes4912 if you have a Mira you have to disconnect the air hose it constantly blows. Not sure what laser you have, but still not getting good results trying to melt the powder myself

[@nickolascastillo4019]

I was about to ask that as well.

[@Smithereens655]

In my desperate time of need, you've really inspired me, we have tried all the other methods and laser dark (it never fails to "bleed") I've sent your top 10 reasons laser engraver business fails and this one to my partner. We have really struggled to keep going, between life events that have happened and not making enough money to keep the business going, to the lack of feeling the spark again

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thanks Ashley! That is really nice to hear, Im glad I could be some inspiration, and thank you for sharing your truth! We must learn form all our mistakes to get better at whatever it is that we do! I've had my share! and those mistakes have made me a better engraver over time!

[@Smithereens655]

@LaserEngraving911 you're welcome, and thank you for replying! In an attempt to get more awareness of our company, I made a KZbin channel a few days ago! One video so far, which was actually made and intended more for social media 😅 if you are interested, Urban Heart Designs. Whether you che k it out or not, I really appreciate your reply to my comment 😊😁

[@elanvitality1899]

Thanks for a very informative video. Just asking, can you add glitter to the powder and whether you would see a sparkling effect?

[@LaserEngraving911]

Hmmm, as long as the laser power your using only melts the powder coat paint and doesn't burn the glitter it should work I would think. What a cool Idea!

[@TalkingGIJoe]

they make additives for paint powder that have that effect...

[@bdyer6football]

Yes I am a powder coater in FL and have gotten a couple of signs custom made and tried something new that I added too the clear coat and worked great

[@mattlikewise9431]

Hello I was wondering since your not heating the paint will it eventually fall out or fade away down the line? I received a post from a gentleman who believes it’s gonna be messy in the end. Here is his message to me: I do powder and ceramic coatings for a living and that video was honestly hard to watch. There’s virtually no way to get lasting results from this method (aside from luck) as the substrate has to reach the cure temperature of the powder to get a bond. All powders have a specific gel/cure temperature and there’s no way to regulate that with a laser. Not trying to be a downer because you can get it to melt and look cool. Just want to advise folks to be careful selling projects like this because when an under or over cured powder fails, you will have some unhappy customers.

[@LaserEngraving911]

@@mattlikewise9431 I would say that even though your friend who sent you this has much more experience with coating metals , he does not have experience first hand with this process, and has not tried it himself most likely and is comparing the process for coating metals with this process, which is a different substrate, and used for a complete different purpose than coating metal parts, this process is a way to add long lasting color to your engrave on wood and acylic, not metal, and the things you will most likely color will not be used in the same way that powder coated metal items will be used, so the need to cure like you do on metal is mute. The melted paint stay in the engraving just fine for this purpose and does not flake out, or fade away like your fellow assumes. Unless you run your laser too hot and burn it up. Hope that helps answer your questions, and I hope you get a chance to try this method and see for your self what I mean. Good Luck!

[@CJMCreates]

Thank you for the awesome tutorial. In your experience, would this process work with acrylic or metals?

[@LaserEngraving911]

It should work with acrylic yes! metal no.

[@cindyrobinson2618]

That’s pretty amazing! I wonder if embossing powder would work as well?? It’s used for papercrafting usually and you use heat to melt it. Hmmm…might have to give it a try! Great video! Thanks for sharing!

[@prod7054]

Are you talking about gold and other metals. Like using leaf but more intense maybe. Be good to to hear results Cindy

[@cindyrobinson2618]

@@prod7054 its a powder that you sprinkle on embossing ink and apply heat to melt it.

[@cindyrobinson2618]

It comes in all different colors.

[@SuperJoycem]

@@cindyrobinson2618 I was wondering the same thing. If you try it would you let me know if it works please ? 👍

[@youmightliketoknow]

Yes, it does work. I have been doing it with my diode laser for a couple of years - the hard part is finding the right settings via trial and error, different colors required different settings as well (at least for diode lasers)

[@marymullen4262]

Absolutely fabulous!!!! Goodbye paint!

[@WillNelsen]

Very cool. I've been curious about the longevity of just this method. (application into wood). I've been mostly curious about different finishes and their interactions with the final "powder coat". I wonder if there would be any loss of adhesion with an oil finish vs a water based finish. IDK ... Perhaps a pull test? Haha. Keep up the great work man!

[@charlesmyers9765]

Could use like a finger print brush to dust the object without disturbing, or just make some alignment marks.

[@ankitmistri4766]

It came out really good !! Do we need to turn on or off air assist on diode laser ? Please tell thank you much appreciated

[@LaserEngraving911]

for sure

[@tracyhubbard4637]

Hi, Thanks so much for your videos ... they're great! I have a small 10w diode.... what settings would you recommend? Thank you!

[@LaserEngraving911]

I dont use diodes, so I could not recommend a setting, but in general, fastest speed low power, then work up power until you get results.

[@jeffnewcombe51]

Great Video, one question. Did you turn off your air assist when going over the powder coat layer?

[@LaserEngraving911]

Yes , 100%

[@desparzaification]

BRILLIANT! How did the laserdo with the white powder?

[@LaserEngraving911]

It's good, with a co2 and right settings, but not so hot with diode lasers.

[@edmelzark1069]

Great work and thank you for sharing and I woundered if you could do that on tumblers and thanks for clearing that up. Nice work.

[@LaserEngraving911]

You bet

[@mariadelosangelesgarcia6431]

Hello is me again, I have power paint that I use with Epoxy Resin, can I used it, is the same??

[@LaserEngraving911]

no, it is not the same, that type of mica powder for coloring epoxy does not work.

[@bginn3448]

quick question... what about laser head air assist. Can it still be used on a low setting or should it be disconnected? Thanks so much for the video it was very well done. I am going to give this approach a test... Thanks again

[@LaserEngraving911]

I would just disconnect, while you do the melt

[@mcotter11]

Awesome method! Have you tried wiping the board down after finishing? I am considering using this technique to make menus for a local restaurant (green background with white lettering) but they would be wiping off their 'menus' on a regular... I'm thinking sealing it with a poly finish or something

[@LaserEngraving911]

That's a great idea! I would def seal them!

[@ArnoSteinwender]

Really cool! Wanna try out. I am in Austria / Europe, so the ebay links don't help me much. What kind of color do I search for? "Pulverbeschichtung"? What do I have to look at here? Melting point? Poisonous fumes? So what kind of colours can I use (Link for Middle Europe oder Amazon would be appreciated)

[@LaserEngraving911]

Check out this link on amazon they have lots of colors and its the correct type of powder coating paint. amzn.to/3xpKT91,

[@ArnoSteinwender]

@@LaserEngraving911 Thank you. All colours are unavailable at the moment

[@karlsmith2413]

I found a local Powder coating company who gave me a few samples to try and are happy to supply if I need some. Maybe it's worth seeing if you have someone local

[@kristirichmond2221]

Are there no issues with the exhaust pulling the powder coating powder out of the engrave?

[@LaserEngraving911]

I have not had any issues with this, I'm sure with an over powered exhaust it could be an issue, maybe 700cfm or higher/

[@CraigHollabaugh]

You mentioned in your conclusion unsuccessful with metal, did you use a power coating gun to apply the powder? Hey, thanks for the video, this technique is excellent and simple.

[@SamDeRaes]

Would this be able to do on glass?

[@LaserEngraving911]

no unfortunately

[@nicholasbostaph3562]

This is an awesome technique; thanks for the video! How do you keep the target medium from moving while applying the powder? I tried this with a 2x3 stainless steel sheet, and though I was very careful I still managed to move the sheet while applying the powder causing the second burn to be slightly offset from the first. Any tips? I was thinking about dropping a glob of silicone to hold it in place since that will be easy to remove after, but is there an easier solution?

[@LaserEngraving911]

Tri blue painters tape, not sure if the powder coating is going to bond right to stainless though, they way it bonds to wood, but it will be a fun experiment for you let us know how it bonds.

[@timpawelk1792]

I picked up some powder coat paint from a neighbor business a year ago and never got around to trying this. Great to know it works!

[@LaserEngraving911]

That it does Sir! Hope you have fun with it!

[@davidb1038]

Hello from the UK, great video I will definitely give this a go

[@LPTDC]

Great technique. Excellent job testing it and sharing it with your subscribers. Thumbs Up!

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thank you very much!

[@eddycheung4693]

amazing tutrial! do you know if it work on metal?

[@LaserEngraving911]

does not.

[@Dennyspp]

Wao! This video is great!! Thanks for telling us all the details. I do not know if I missed but do you know if this process is safe? I mean if we can breathe the fumes?

[@LaserEngraving911]

if you have an exhaust fan extracting all fumes outside as any laser engraving machine should, there are no issues.

[@amccauley68]

So very cool! Thank you also for talking about what DIDN'T work, namely leather. I was hoping you found a way to make that happen, but if YOU can't do it, I know i can't! 😂 I enjoyed this video!

[@LaserEngraving911]

You are so welcome!

[@michaelenglund]

Great. Can you skip one step and spread powder over a clean surface and laser once?

[@LaserEngraving911]

no, you need to engrave a channel for the power to rest in.

[@msidefx1]

Can you show me the powder paint you used? I think I purchased mica powder and not the correct stuff. I can't get it to melt. It just wipes away no matter what speed or power I use on my co2 laser.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Sure, in the description of the video the text about the video below the video, I have posted all the links to where to buy it. Just scroll through and find the links you need.

[@patberry3388]

When will you have the powder in stock? I have an Epilog 60 watt edge that I could use it with. I really enjoy engraving and using powder coat is a great way to fill. Thanks.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Working on it, maybe a week, in the mean time I listed all the ebay links where I get it if you need it sooner.

[@armastat]

I am getting my laser tomorrow and for the last week i have spent hours on my graphics program designing test plates for all sorts of stuff, like depth cut on XXX wood vs speed and power engraving tones, so and so on, with this one Im gonna need another few, I think its abt 30 test plates by now, lol.

[@LaserEngraving911]

That’s exciting. Sounds like you’re off to a good start.

[@burtonjohne]

Love the video you have given me so many ideas. I do have one question. . .what type or brand of powder wo you use? Thank you.

[@LaserEngraving911]

I linked all the bulk powder I buy in the description of the video, I believe it is Sherwin Williams most of it. Thanks

[@DimensionMachine]

I have seen other poople do this, none of them explained it as well, or had the impressive results that you did. Great video, now I need to go try it!

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thank You!

[@armastat]

Could you use a stencil to allow placing different colors into the same image area

[@LaserEngraving911]

that might get kind of messy and over complicated

[@RedPillSurvival]

Would printer toner work with this technique?

[@jffqnn]

I haven't read all the comments yet but was curious if this technique would work using a 5.5 Watt Blue Diode Laser? I'm absolutely Brand New to Laser Engraving Anything and I've been watching multiple KZbin Videos just to learn how to use Lightburn and LaserGRBL. So Much to learn but WOW, definitely not a Boring Craft!! Thank You for Your Time and Ideas!! I'm just getting into the laser engraving to keep my mind busy and learn something new but certainly can see potential in it, even if I only make something for Family and Friends. Thanks Again for the Awesome Video!! 🙂

[@alwayscensored6871]

Is the powder fine enough to mix a few colours to get different shades. This looks like a great way to add colour or deeper black.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Yes, for sure!

[@JimNichols]

Innovation is an amazing thing!

[@karatohongkongcat]

Cool beans just ordered the sample from you and waiting On my xTool M1, plus the air assist too and and few other goodies

[@LaserEngraving911]

Great, sounds cool, just make sure you turn off all air assist while melting the powder coating. or it will blow the powder out of the engraving before it gets melted.

[@karatohongkongcat]

@@LaserEngraving911 Ty will be going to Your vid’s for advice and techniques

[@Asagi1973]

Hi! I enjoyed your great video about engraving with powdercoat paint! Great job! Does it work with 'special' paints too, like metallic or chrome effect paint ?

[@LaserEngraving911]

Yes it does!

[@storytellerHD]

Oh wow man thanks alot. You just made me look stupid for buying a $60,000 UV printer to do the same thing (sorta, there are other use cases but for this process...I like your organic approach better). We just discovered your channel today so I'm just perusing. We're on our 2nd Fuson Pro, 36X48, and we like your insight, Keep it up dude!

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thanks! I will, UV printers are cool! Kinda Jealous you have one 😂

[@KitchenBuddha]

I have been trying a LIGHT application of Spray 77 (3M) adhesive, then sprinkle powder coat thru a stretched cotton filter media where I want the color. This is for images, have to be artistic! Working several images of Mandelbrot sequences and so far great results. Clean completed burn(s) w/ Mr Clean magic eraser and light water, then air compressor.

[@LaserEngraving911]

That's interesting!

[@Giaour]

This is best laser use for engraving I have seen!

[@LaserEngraving911]

I don't know about all that , but it sure is cool, and fun! Thank You for your support!

[@karllaun2427]

Interesting. Have you tried masking (or leaving the paper on acrylic) for your technique? I see the sampler is out of stock in your store. Will it be in stock again?

[@LaserEngraving911]

Great idea! yes masking would help with clean up but also more work, def worth a try,

[@rogerwilliams5020]

Congratulations Man! One of the best hacks I've ever seen. If not the best!👍

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thanks, its a fun one for sure!

[@laserfalcon]

Good demo video We tried this in our shop about 10 yrs ago but majority of our customers dealt with metal parts and never tried with wood. We had iffy success but nothing worth pursuing so of course busy with other projects so got forgotten. Good video you did.👍

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thank You!

[@rush2crush470]

does it work in metal?

[@RanGer-498]

I want to get into laser engraving, what program and unit should i start out with ? Many thanks

[@bryandastmalchi3250]

Very cool! How can this same result be achieved using a fiber laser and titanium?

[@LaserEngraving911]

You can do colors with a fiber laser but you will need a MOPA fiber laser to do this, there are lots of videos on this on YT

[@grumpysgarage4387]

Thank you for your videos I bought a xtool s1 for the kids this will open their creativity can't wait for the delivery Jan 10th and upload videos of the kids using it Cheers Dave

[@LaserEngraving911]

Solid, Im looking forward to trying that one out as well.

[@makerspace533]

I wonder if a little de-focus might help during the curing stage. For metal panels, maybe a fairly deep engrave with the fiber, applying the power, then bake in the oven like you normally do would work.

[@LaserEngraving911]

That might work, can you let us know if you pull it off!

[@lionpawprintsandmedia]

The oven will bake any residual powered surface if it's not cleaned up 100%. May ruin the project

[@chriskiepfer450]

I just placed an order for the powder, do you know if you can get a gloss finish eventually, by adding layers? Great video, thanks!

[@LaserEngraving911]

I have not experimented with gloss finish powder coating but you could put a layer for spray varnish over it if you wanted. Thanks!

[@DragonclawMakerStudio]

That's pretty cool. Thanks for sharing.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thanks for watching!

[@jmbadsector]

Impressive, nice idea, I may try this!

[@lightning4201]

This is hands down one of the best videos that I've seen. Very innovative.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Thank for that, very motivating for me!

[@ericfuentes7163]

Thank you. I was really thinking about using laser for cooking instead of traditional oven thingy.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Welcome!

[@davecameron7348]

Use a fine seive for applying the powder. Are you re-using the excess powder or binning it?

[@LaserEngraving911]

I re-use! works great!

[@mikekleinschmidt3671]

Curious if you have tried sealing the powder coating with something like Krylon or other clear coatings after the laser process.

[@LaserEngraving911]

You can for sure it does not effect it at all, epoxy, krylon clear, what ever yes.

[@tonysouth]

Great video. Thanks for sharing! Would this work with metal substrates?

[@John8392]

Can you provide a link as to where to purchase? So many different kinds, I'd like to get the right one. Thanks

[@LaserEngraving911]

All link to bulk and the sample pack are in the description of my video.

[@Nordic_Goon]

This is awesome. Wish I'd seen this before coating and post paint color filling.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Glad you liked it!

[@glasgowjohn7831]

brilliant mate, im buying an aufero laser 2 and im looking for hints and tips and this is one i will be trying

[@LaserEngraving911]

Nice!

[@bryanknitter8858]

Would this work with laser printer toner? Refills can be had fairly inexpensively. Basic colors only though.

[@LaserEngraving911]

Haven’t explored That, sounds interesting though

[@antonwinter630]

that comes out so good. love to see how well it comes out on acrylic