Lasting-up a Derby shoe - Part 4 of 4

Lasting-up a Derby shoe with Bill Bird.
Shaping the toe puffs, putting in the side linings, lasting up the vamps
00.04 - Molding the shape of the mellow toe-puff
00.49 - Putting in the side linings
03.18 - Pulling over the vamps and lasting them up
08.10 - Trimming the vamp skirt and laying it down
This video was filmed in 2010 at a college lecture. This is the fourth part of four.

[@InspiralJez]

I have watched many lasting videos, but this is far the best one becuase you go though all the points and part in great detail, thank you so much!

[@rnbdanny]

All the content that you upload is just so invaluable. Thanks a lot for taking the time to share all this information, and you are also great at explaining all the processes. Very much appreciated.

[@ROULTALFONSO]

GRACIAS , GRACIAS, SOS GRANDE

[@reginapotts4341]

Such a wonderful and technical video series...I am a big fan of your youtube channel and look forward to learning from you. Those folks in the background must be experts because I would be huddled at your shoulder watching and not speaking! LOL Thank You for sharing your skill and talent.

[@Bertausmuc]

Thanks for the great explanation, this helps me a lot

[@markl240]

Thank you for posting that. Very interesting and very clear. Much appreciated.

[@orthopedicshoemaking5921]

Thank you. I really appreciate your feedback

[@musafirhoon9259]

Sir Thank u very much. the Style of your coaching and the way you explain every step in depth is truly illuminating. I saw almost your all videos. I humbly suggest to please make a complete series of how to craft "good year welted Shoes" from start to the last step. Thanks

[@orthopedicshoemaking5921]

Thank you Musafir. I don't do Goodyear welted shoes as that is a machine process with a canvas rib, cemented onto a flat innersole. I do hand sewn shoes where the welt is hand sewn into a holdfast shaped from the substance of the innersole and the welt is then hand stitched onto the sole. Is that what you meant?

[@musafirhoon9259]

@@orthopedicshoemaking5921 Thanks for Replying Sir what i was suggesting in the first comment can be understood by watching this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJapnJuCqreomqM Sir if u spare some minutes and watch this video. i was suggesting the process of construction of this type of shoe. thanks

[@Brian_Cameron]

@@musafirhoon9259 Hey you might find the videos by Andrew Wrigley helpful. Here is this first video he does on the process of installing the rand and welt. He has a whole video series on making a shoe from start to finish. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWHYZGqupt-sgq8

[@musafirhoon9259]

@@Brian_Cameron Thank u very much sir. :)

[@davidl2662]

any videos on welting and bottoming?

[@SimchaYaffa]

thank you:)

[@markl240]

If its not too presumptuous, if you make a video about welting please can you show how you tie bristles onto the thread. As a hobbyist begginer shoemaker I am really struggling with attaching nylon bristles and I cannot find any videos out there showing how this is done.

[@orthopedicshoemaking5921]

Good question. It's certainly a skill in itself and there's nothing more frustrating than a bristle coming off half way through a job!!! Teaching it on KZbin will take good photography and patience. I have a plan with my photographer to do just as you ask but we'll have to get through lockdown first.

[@sdcruwsdcruw2281]

It's a good job you do, but the sole assembly is missing thank you very much...!!!

[@orthopedicshoemaking5921]

Thanks for asking. That's a big one and there are many ways and solutions, depending on who the shoes are for and what will be helpful to them. Rigid leather for one, light weight EVA for another and thin thermal rubber for yet another still. I'm working first on the characteristics of the different forms of soling and heeling and for whom and what conditions each are of the most benefit.