Lead screw Part 3 "The nut"

[@yardlimit8695]

i ran across this video by accident and do not work with metal at all but i watched all 3 videos in this sequence. you have a good clear way of talking and explaining what you're doing and why you are doing it. very nice.

[@allanleroux5413]

The 3 videos are great! Keep them coming... CA is great and has so many uses, I use it all the time in my hobby.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Allan Le Roux Thank you

[@prf1653]

This has inspired me to build a new lead screw for my Atlas 54 inch lathe. Just ordered the pre threaded stock. Thank you.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Im glade you liked it. Good luck:-)

[@paulturney5386]

I sent my post before I saw yours. Good luck with your project, will you make a video for your KZbin site?

[@Denny98059]

Thanks for the finishing this video. I have a mini mill G0765 the Carriage bolt is just hard to adjust with the current screw and bolt. So using this video I am going the make a Lead Screw set up for my carriage. I make a video and send it to you...

[@acalciu]

Dale, another great series. I have no need for a leadscrew repair, but I am taking the sledge hammer to the shop to break one of my leadscrews in order to allow me to start a project like this. Kudos!

[@pweimer47]

Made it to the next video, my question was answered there. Thank you for all your videos!

[@HemiRod23]

I'm not a big fan of glue, but that could be that I don't know enough about the different kinds of adhesives and what their strengths and weaknesses are. The Acme cylinder nuts on (for example) Bridgeport milling vises are pinned in place with a blind steel pin, then ground smooth so it completely disappears. To remove it you simply drill out the pin and pull the cylinder nut out. I would opt for something like that as opposed to glue. Just my own personal preference. Love the video series, and a $100 lead screw repair is a great deal. Thank you!

[@Ricardo6784]

Thumbs up. You have natural skills.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks

[@19cmurry85]

This guys great, he's like the Mr. Rogers of metal work.

[@treyhedgepeth9598]

Chase Murry he is the Norm Abram of metal.

[@bdrman2004]

Never would have thought super glue would make a secure joint like that... Learn something new everyday!! Keep up the good work brother!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Glad I could help

[@birddog61999]

$100 well spent, enjoyed the short video series.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I agree, a new part was $400 :-)

[@danielwerger5641]

Interesting Dale. You've caused me to re-think adhesives..... Keep the vid's coming...! Cheers, Daniel.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Daniel Werger They can be a real time saver

[@JeffreyVastine]

Hi Dale, it looks like you are all set to go the distance with the Friday Tips & Tricks. Judging from the comments the consensus of opinion is that the CA glue was not the best choice and I tend to agree. The first thing that came to mind was to pin the nut inside of the casting since it' base appears to have enough mass that a small hole would not impact the integrity of the part. Despite this point, there was still a lot of good info provided and you brought up points that many had overlooked. I look forward to seeing your surface grinder in action putting the finishing touch on something cool. Keep up the good work!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

It will be interesting to see how long the super glue will last. I used it because that what I had on hand. 😀

[@1963Franksworld]

nice job Dale. lots of really negative commenting on this entire series, I dont know why. these are ideas that put passed over machines back to service for the long haul. We are spending our hard earned money not the companies cash to solve serious issues in this case a screw and nut that might even be obsolete or so rediculously expensive the machine would be scraped. Labor has become so expensive that management would never allow someone to be taken off production work to make these repairs. Down time is figured in thousands dollars per hour each line or machine. Some of the neg is people talking through hats, When that machine is running again it will work perfect. Only advice is about loctite, every parts counter I ever seen has a display of single use tubes that cost about a dollar, worth picking a few up next time you stop in for brake pads or oil filters. Great series on lead screw and nut repair. Will be doing the same job on my 13 south bend crossfeed and mitre.

[@daviddombrowski240]

great videos dale! I've been a machinist for two years, I'm still very wet behind the ears. you've been a great resource for me, very knowledgeable, articulate, and thorough in your teaching. Thank you.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+David Dombrowski Im glade I you like what I do. :-)

[@letrainavapeur]

Enjoyed your videos, no waffle plenty of action from an obvious craftsman, a few of your countrymen could do with adopting this

[@fredfarnackle5455]

I watched all three parts of this video, very good information and good video technique. I don't have a need for anything like this right now, but if I ever do... Thanks.

[@ChrisB257]

Nice approach Dale - great result.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks

[@patw52pb1]

Great solution, , precise, economical and relatively quick.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I'm glad you liked it.

[@PeterWMeek]

That's one of the nice things about acme threads: both the ID of the nuts and the OD of the shafts have some flats to clamp on, and even (with some care) indicate on.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

That a great point.

[@robertsanders6424]

Hi I have watched all 3 videos on repairing the lead screw. Great info keep them coming. Robert from Western Australia.

[@justy256]

Great stuff!! Well presented, filmed and edited.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Justin Clayden Thanks

[@tombellus8986]

Good series I really enjoyed it ------------- thanks

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Tom Bellus Thanks

[@mariah8200]

Great series of videos! I wish there was a satisfying shot of you putting the lead screw through the nut but that’s okay :)

[@sleefox]

Nice innovation and application. I watched to learn. Thanks, slf

[@BuildSomthingCool]

im glade you like it

[@dihskursiv]

Excellent video...thanks for posting it.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+dihskursiv Im glade you liked it.

[@b.o._tech]

Great job and nice class! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Regards from Brazil!

[@SrBossCheese]

It's great to see your machine videos! This is Mackenzie from Dillon's blacksmith shop. I met you over the summer.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Very nice repair. I guess I learned a thing or two there. Thanks for sharing.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+cerberus I glad you liked it.

[@sianfarrell2624]

I think if I were doing this job, I'd have drilled for two grub screws so that, if the glue fails at any point in the future, the grub screws would retain the thread inside the sleeve🤔 Great video by the way!😊xx

[@1889michaelcraig]

i really like the mandrill idea.

[@chrishill6276]

Thanks Dale. Good info. I also like the height of that lathe you used to turn the nut. Im going to lift mine 6". Must have been made for midgets. I have overcome the problem of having to have two lathes by having a2 kw and a 5 kw motor on mine. The lower powered one running at 3.5:1 slower than standard speed which means i can get right down to 26 rpm.

[@danapatelzick9812]

This repair looks really nice. I would not has thought of using super glue for a repair like this. The good thing is that you have a large contact area between the nut and the holder. It would really be difficult to make it shear and if the two materials were similar then thermal expansion because of CTE mismatch should not be a problem. One of my hobbies is building golf clubs and the joint between the shaft ( steel or carbon fiber) and the head (stainless steel, steel or titanium) is epoxy. It has the same type of joint that you made. My golf clubs have seen hot, cold, wet and dry and hundreds of shots on golf balls (and the ground) without failure. The key is a clean, oil free, active surface. The only way to break the bond is with a torch -ie. heat the epoxy to failure. I would trust the bond more than a pin or screw or anything like that because those things will have high point contact forces that would be prime for failure. Thanks for the video.

[@samchen4585]

skillful operating and good thinking. there is only one little problem I feel. the mandrel you hold is a nut's thread MINOR Diameter. It will be no reference means on either axis direction or concentricity of lead thread. of course if you setup the casting iron stand by hand file cutting later will be OK. I will consider to use the damaged lead with 2 rough nut lock instead of mandrel if not too many worn out.

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. I liked the repair, and at that cost, it's Kind of a no brainer. I'm not sure about the sticky stuff though, but time will tell. Thanks mate.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I don't like using glue, but this time I have so much surface to surface contact I could have used wood glue. lol

[@marceltimmers1290]

Thanks Mate.

[@phooesnax]

Great job. Interesting approach and I like it. Thanks for the hard work making you show. Interesting how the content on youtube has surpassed TV.

[@jflueger]

Like your fix, you could also use locktite green.

[@123kkambiz]

Nice repair work. Good explanation .

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks

[@goldridgedesign9069]

Very nice! I like these videos

[@mikruson]

Perfect and useful way .

[@FirstIrishKing]

Great video Dale, thanks for the tips.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks

[@CraftedChannel]

I was hoping to see the nut spin on the shaft and an example of the machine working with greatly reduced backlash. Still a great series. I'm watching because I'm contemplating doing a tail stock rebuild.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I can tell you it worked out excellent, it still has some backlash, but it is for surface grinder so it's not that big a deal

[@CraftedChannel]

Thanks for the great series.

[@gregorywest2029]

Nice job. Keep them comming, thanks, Greg

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks Greg, I will

[@rafaelortega5990]

that was very good I did not know that glue can hold metal

[@dustinmasters9239]

Couldn't wait for this video after last weeks, and I wasn't disappointed! Great job Dale! Can't wait for your next project.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thank you. I'm glad you liked it.

[@russhellmy]

good video, nice use of turning between centres. I think you might have some problems over time with poor oil resistance of most superglues, I've seen a few cases where they failed in oily environments similar to what that bushing will experience. I would have gone with a chemical resistant 2 part epoxy, Also when gluing in a bushing is a good idea to toughen up both surfaces to give superior mechanical keying for the adhesive. A great way to do this is to cut both left and right hand fine threads at scratch pass depth in both parts, this gives a micro-knurl surface for the glue to key into, it will never come loose.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+russhellmy Great Idea on the left and right scratch pass.

[@2024bear]

now I know how to fix my tail stock .............. thanks for the video

[@enjoyingthecrisis5931]

With a difficult to heat part like that, you might want to try compression shrink-fitting instead of expansion shrink fitting. We used a liquid nitrogen bath to shrink an insert on an aircraft panel normally installed with a hydraulic press at the factory, because we weren't about to remove and disassemble an entire wing in the hangar. Packing in dry ice chips should also work.

[@lrdisco2005]

Modern adhesives are amazing, but it takes a change in mind set to trust them completely, but we are getting there.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+LR Disco :-)

[@niltonpolydoro1]

Congratulations from Brazil. Very nice videos. Thanks for sharing. Nilton Polydoro

[@jacquespoirier9071]

I prefer a light shrink fit over a glue fit as these are truly dissimilar materials. For 1 inch dia, 0.001 inch of interfrence needs a temperature of 250 deg F and is is not enough to distort the thread to a point of impair the screw fitting I look this video with a great interest as I done the same thing for the crossfeed lead screw on my old Willson lathe

[@Mekratrig]

Very enjoyable and informative, appreciate the explanations of why you do things a certain way, for instace, soldering versus gluing. Only one suggestion, would hae been nice to see the new thread screw being used in contrask to the old one with all the slack. Looking forward to watching more of your vids.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Ok I will try to positive. This was a great idea, the lead screw on a surface grinder has very little axial force on it, the CA glue should work for quite awhile. I do not suggest this on a lathe, the axial forces are far greater on all of the lead screws of a lathe. This type of CA glue will fail due to moisture and most petro. lubricants. There is product made by several Manufacturer's that would last much longer. You could of added a couple of grub screws to lock in the nut. Good fix, But I think a bit pricey. I think you could of made a fine screw and nut, and would of been proud of the repair. I neeed a set of expanding mandrels they are great for repair work, nice job on the turning. Thank you for all of the fine content you provide. Randy

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I will be interesting to see how long it will hold 😀😅

[@GUSMIX22]

+Randy Richard Indeed Glue really ??? I want to know how this works... But I am very "how you say" no way... especially after spending that kind of money on a "precision screw and nut"' I don't understand.. WHY GLUE.. ??? .

[@MaturePatriot]

Randy Richard In The Shop - The grub screw method was also my first thought.

[@2bustedthumbsmachining127]

Randy Richards in The Shop - Build Something Cool : Question could that nut be drilled and tapped on either side then split into two pieces, one longer and one shorter, to make a backlash adjustable lead screw nut? The one piece glued or set screwed, and the other piece attached by two screws to the stationary piece, but floating to be adjusted by the two screws to take up the backlash over time. Does that make sense. (Edited for spelling)

[@cpcoark]

Very good series Dale. I need to do that to an old mill I have but I need to find a bigger lathe first :-). Only comment I have is you didn't mention turning up the head stock point after you put it in the head stock. The piece is short enough so it probably doesn't matter but it is a good habit. Again , you put out very good videos.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks for the comment😀

[@skoue4165]

As more of a rough and tumble builder I have a few recommendations. But first I liked this series. I learned some new things and a different approach to some issues, plus I do a lot of fix jobs. My experience with super glue type adhesives is mixed. They don't seem to like oil and tend to be brittle. For those reasons I probably would have gone with epoxy. I'm glad you explained in this one why you were leaning to glue rather than solder, I asked that question in part 2. Also since you were going with a glue I would have added some texture for the glue to hold onto. Tight fit with smooth machined surfaces gives very little for the glue to hold onto. So I probably would have done some scratching with sand paper to give the glue something to grab. But you may be right that it will last longer than I expect? BTW in case you don't know unlike epoxy which is pretty solvent resistive acetone will melt super glue pretty quickly. Not really a problem in use but if you need to separate them in the future soaking in acetone will probably make the center just slide out.

[@tomherd4179]

Great job. The glue seems fine. I probably would have run a set screw in along the outside horizontal edge of the inserted thread part, not to deform but just to (kiss) anchor it a little more. My experience with glues is questionable. Note: I am sure you know much more than I do on machining, which I why I follow you! Thanks

[@EmperorDevilhunter]

I recomend you using anaerobic retainer instead of super glue. This thing is awsome to hold shafts. Instead of water, it uses the metal ions to catalyze, so it don't gets dry in the bottle.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks for the input.😀

[@mertsilliker1682]

easy to comment on nice work

[@d110pickup]

Excellent series Dale, I'd say $100 spent to replace a part made of unobtainium (can't buy a new one) is a deal!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks I'm glad you liked it.

[@McFingal]

When you say positive comments, do you mean life affirming "you are a great human being" or damn that's some real good work?

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+The Texas Gun Guy Both of those are a good start LOL!

[@KnolltopFarms]

Well, you used super-glue on your nut, I used some to patch up a nice slash in my finger. I just love those liquid stitches and you've got you chem weld. Great job, thanks for sharing it...Aloha, Chuck.

[@marceltimmers1290]

+Knolltop Farms Hi mate. You might know this, but super glue is essential the same as surgical glue. the only difference is the colour. It also works well for cracked heels, but make sure that you don't get some on your fingers, otherwise walking would be somewhat of a challenge.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Marcel Timmers funny

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Knolltop Farms thanks

[@KnolltopFarms]

+Marcel Timmers Yes I did learn that, and have read that Krazy-Glue was originally created when the US military was looking for a quick and easy fix for troops in the field. I think the article I read was in Popular Science(?) back in the 80's, and they now call it DERMABOND™. I love it and used to carry a couple of tubes with me every time I traveled to surf in far away places. In fact, I've even temporarily glued a Brazilian guy's eyebrow back onto his face when his surfboard fin almost cut it off while in Indonesia. It was kind of crooked, and even after plastic surgery the poor guy now looks like he is always a little surprised, LOL! I will have to try it on my heel the next time I get a crack from the dry weather, thanks!

[@marceltimmers1290]

Thanks for that extra info about the troops, I was unaware of that. BTW, it partly explains why you are able to speak Hawaiian. So in your wilder years you travelled the globe for waves. I have been on Bali many times, and it full of surfy guys and shiela-s from all over the world. I will look for a quisical surfer next time. Slamat datang.

[@Distractor_Beam]

Great work! Love your channel.

[@MyShopNotes]

Thanks for the vid Dale. Why not put a shoulder on your center in the chuck so it will not slip.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Steve S Thats a good Idea.

[@timthomas9105]

I'm glad I watched all 3. Very interesting process. Please let me know where you get them. Maybe I can get a fix for my part.

[@larrysperling8801]

very nice job dale. i have never used super glue for a permanent repair like that. i would be curious to see how it would stand up to to other adhesives like locktite and epoxy. its sure is quick and simple. i may have to make up some test pieces and see for myself.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+larry sperling I might be able to save you some time. Im working on doing a experiment to see what is stronger Loctite superglue or solder. I hope to shoot the video in a few weeks.

[@kassimol800mhz]

Great job. Thumbs up

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Kassio Oliveira :-)

[@trainedtiger]

Cylindrical Loctite is really strong and waterproof, it is as strong as a .0005" press fit on a 1" diameter.

[@troposquare]

I wonder, would Loctite have been ok for that gluing job? Excellent videos...you have a good teaching manner...very clear what you are doing and why.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Hi Geoff, thanks for your comment. Yes Loctite would work too.

[@raudelgutierrez962]

Great tips, thank you

[@travisaspin]

Wow great repair. Given what you spent in parts I will bet it pales in comparison to what the OEM will charge for a lead screw and nut combo if you can even find them. The glue will hold just fine in your aplication. It's not like your running the machine 8+ hrs a day. Anyways just my 2 cents. Great video and keep up the good work!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+Travis Aspin Thanks for the comment

[@MohammadRezaSiam]

Great video and the guy is a pro, its just that he talks a lot

[@pierresgarage2687]

A couple of good ideas, my only concern is Crazy Glue, would have helped it a little.... ;)

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I doing a video that will be out today or tomorrow talking about that subject.

[@davidmasters9793]

I;m not a fan of glue in this type of repair I would have taken one more step at the mill drilled and taped the part lines for 2 small set screws known as a dutch lock, Fine repair, well thought out keep up the informative video's Dave

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+david masters Great comment

[@1970chevelle396]

Great job.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+1970chevelle396 Thanks

[@arockpcb1347]

Yep, I agree with the pre made stuff. time is money and down machines don't make money. Hobby machines are different but still a good way to go. I don't like that brand of glue but that's just my worthless opinion. good job dale.

[@lonnybreaux4223]

Well Done

[@haroonjan3576]

Thanks Dale nice work, apprecialble

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Thanks

[@jbrunson1949]

I like seeing the work and great video, I have a question since you use things like super glue, I have in mind , has anyone ever made say a nylon type pressure insert that would squeeze on the lead screw, seems this would be a good fix for backlash and smooth operation, just drill and tap a hole, insert a small nylon disc and place set screw on top, then just apply set screw pressure and turn lead screw shaft, after a dozen or so turns the nylon would seat itself in lead screw and form a no play or backlash turn, cheap cutting board to drill hole plugs would do the inserts, the time in changing them out should be minimal, so as regular as needed would not be problem.

[@stevecobb76]

Great video. I know this is a old video, but why not a couple simple set screws? That would give you manual position control. And I believe it would be stronger than superglue

[@georgecrutchfield8734]

All very interesting, thank you.

[@K162KingPin]

Very nice work... though i can't help but wonder why you didn't buy an acme tap and rebuild the nut from scratch. You said in the other video it was about the same price as that nut... so... if the tool and the part are the same price you should always buy the tool. I would buy the tool if it was twice the price of the part just b/c you can make them from now on. With your skill level I'm sure you could have easily rebuilt the nut in your mill in the same amount of time you spent repairing the old one. If you bought the threader now you would be empowered for future repair. Just a thought. Still very nice work.

[@shexdensmore]

Great job, I'm curious if threadlock would work?

[@BrettDalton]

Was wondering about the strength of the CA glue. Would have thought a grub screw or similar would be better to ensure it couldn't break out.

[@ddistrbd1]

Great video , I enjoyed watching all 3 parts. ,I wonder why you didn't consider high strength threadlocker instead of glue .

[@abelewin2855]

You can hold it with a set screw to keep it in place. It is better than glue.

[@tomherd4179]

I forgot to add - - I like your white board attached to the lathe back.

[@jburr36]

just priced an acme thread cutter on amazon. $35 - $60 each but that would have been much more work to cut the threads then heat treat the rod and nut. Only thing I would have done different was to grind a flat spot on the nut then drilled - tapped a hole in the nut housing to put a set screw to hold the nut in place instead of gluing it in. I suppose it would be application specific but one needs to lubricate that part and degrease it to clean from time to time so I wouldn't be sure the glue would hold up to a solvent based cleaner.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

+jburr36 Great comment

[@medvedmedvedoff4803]

I would try to solder the threaded sleeve to nut body. It`s more reliable i think.

[@Carl4193]

Would you show how to make hydrostatic bearings in various shapes ?

[@Denny98059]

CROSS LEADSCREW it is called. wow I am so new to this stuff.

[@kellerrobert80]

First off, your attention to detail and honesty is refreshing and made the whole series worth watching. Some comments, which others have also said:1) Gorilla glue is the worst for gap-filling. Take a look at these tests: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4a6pmCEbZqijq8 2) Two-part JB Weld has always worked for me. It's pricy but the best.3) You didn't show on camera, but did you degrease the mating surfaces prior to glue-up? Even a minute film of oil would cause failure. And what about leaving small grooves in both parts so the glue has more surface area? (This is why you sand wood). 4) Did you consider (as others have) heating the outer piece and freezing the threads? Perhaps this may cause brittleness? Finally, in a bit of way-out-there, perhaps an experiment to remove backlash? Spray silicone onto the male thread rod and distribute evenly. Then dump a liberal amount of CA glue (not Gorilla) into the thread housing. Then screw back and forth (e.g. chuck in drill) till the CA sets. Don't stop, and you may have to spray more silicone and apply more glue. I've done this on loose handles and it fills the gap perfectly. Not sure it would work in this instance but it would be a cool video to try! Again, please keep up the great video series!

[@bluedeath996]

I am sure that the forces on the working part are that great, but if you aren't press fitting shouldn't you at least have a keyway the stop it turning?

[@pcka12]

just a thought, you solder the adapter onto the leadscrew (the adapter is not subject to load along the length of the screw) yet you super glue the nut which is subject to such loads why not cut a shoulder in the nut and carrier which will deal with loads in at least one direction? then possibly grub screws as others have suggested?

[@johnkonter7696]

Like your video Where did you buy the screw and nut. Thanks

[@mikegrube971]

I'm going to do the same to a MEUSER engine lathe cross slide. I'm converting it to inch from metric. But the nut is brass and odd ball shape. I bought the acme 1"x 5 thread left hand three step tap to thread the nut. ($110.00 Ebay) Expensive, yes, but I figured I could screw up a lot of brass trying to cut an inside, left hand, acme thread and a close tolerance ground acme shaft to fit it. ($100.00) I thought about bushing it, but the wall was really thin and thread tension cut was off center. Factory nut was cast, Cutting a blank from a big brass gear. What do you think about cutting the both ends off the factory shaft and grafting to the new one as it has a taper attachment on the back end and several steps / bearings on the front. Thought about threading them together and pinning. Have any easy way to make or remark the crank dial from metric to inch. I use a dial indicator on the cross slide due to shaft being worn out and metric marks. Like your videos. THANKS, Mike

[@pweimer47]

Dale, wouldn’t 2-part epoxy work better than super glue? Thanks for sharing.

[@abarasabwehttam]

A lot of respect for you manual guys. I do all my own CAD design and then CNC programming so watching this approach is very cool. I am not fond of the acme screws due to a lot of backlash but if you can live with it then by all means. Red Loctite bonds huge when heated so that might have been a better option if the regular super dont hold. How is this holding up?

[@garymucher9590]

Two Issues I see. First, you. should have shown the end-play initially, and second shown the end project end-play. Because that was what this entire project was all about. JMHO!

[@dochollowood5763]

Yep...I'm grinding my teeth here - no idea if it was worth it or how much we can expect end play to be reduced ... grrr...

[@Imwright720]

The first video showed how loose it was.

[@chrisarmstrong8198]

Agreed. It would have been nice to see the "before" and "after" end-play measurements. Also, did the new screw operate freely as the grinder hand wheel was rotated (indicating good alignment of the nut axis with the cross-feed axis)? Still a good practical solution to the problem, though. It beats buying (or making) an Acme tap.

[@boots7859]

Nice channel and presentation. I also was a little disappointed you didn't show a before/after of the end play as that was the reason for the project. But this was several years ago, have to watch more current videos.

[@gregoryhamp4605]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6C5dY2ojqyhr8U

[@hosseinhayati9820]

Well done and thank for sharing & good tips :)

[@tomsullivan9561]

If you make the sacrificial center with a flange that presses against the chuck jaws, you won't have to worry about it moving.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

good point