Leaf DM33 to Phase One IQ140 Is a Smaller Sensor worth it?

[@kochavigivoni5814]

Julio, you are the best!!! Wow, thank you very much for sharing your experience with us.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

My pleasure! Glad if it helps anyone

[@daniellejudd3359]

Thanks for your information, even if it is a little drawn out. There's practically nobody giving their real use views on medium format digital backs. I haven't been able to get myself a system yet, but this confirms what I was half looking at (the IQ140). Very cool. You confirmed the weather sealing too, nobody talks about that, there's no information from users. Cheers.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Danielle Judd true. I had been thinking in making another tutorial series on the IQ for the RZ. Let me know if there is anything you have doubt or questions.

[@daniellejudd3359]

@@RyuuzakiJulio I have no doubts anymore, I found a system for a very good price from our Australian distributor. PhaseOne Df, IQ140 and 80mm schneider LS in a hardcase kit. Cheers to Medium format life. Heaven has arrived.

[@thecooldude71]

@@RyuuzakiJulio please make a tutorial with the iq180🙏

[@pierrebessette2018]

@@daniellejudd3359 hi did you publish some pictures ?

[@patryk2700]

Thanks for this, lots of useful info.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Thank you for your comment! ^^

[@pdiseris]

I'm upgrading to the IQ140 from the Aptus ii7 and can't wait! Low light, faster shooting and the retina screen!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

ARE YOU SERIOUS!? Those are my same upgrade path! Oh man you will die when you see the difference. Just by changing from Aptus to Phase One, none are bad but is so nice to actually see a change when you upgrade. Congratulations!

[@pdiseris]

Yes!! Man I haven't been able to tether with mine for over a year, the ebox is faulty. I've had a lot of trouble with it, but I get by and still shoot, but I cannot wait to have the IQ, It's going to change the game for me. Thank you for the reply. Always love watching your very in depth videos. Cheers

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Peter Diseris I actually have been dying to do the same thing with the IQ series. Prepare for the biggest ride. Turn it on in few seconds, working tethering, battery inside the back, no open holes for fans, beautiful screen, annoying you can’t pinch to zoom in or out but u get used to it.

[@bjmarchives]

Your videos are well made and informative, thank you. I am trying to nail down which digital back version to buy for the RZ67 Pro II, many are labeled for the Phase One 645 or XF camera, which the correct model version for the RZ67 (w/ m mount plate)? I want to make sure it is for 6x7 and not 6x6 of course.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

bjmarchives hi thank you for the comment. The digital backs that can be mounted to 645 and XF cameras are M mount. Until now there is no sensor that is a 6x7cm even the largest ones of 80 mpx but they are not even 6x4.5 cm yet. There are some sensors that are square format per example the P25 is square I believe. And if it’s an M mount you can put it on a 645 camera, the XF and the RZ with the Pro IID adapter plate (HX-701). There is out there another adapter plate that is way cheaper and can rotate. The HX-705 is made for the RZ Pro II and doesn’t have contact pins runs around 500 dlls while the 701 is around 900 dlls. I should not get the 701 but I didn’t knew the 705 existed.

[@bjmarchives]

Ah yes, it’s making much more sense now. I saw your video on the different resolutions too. HX-705 is currently $1300 on eBay :( l, the hunt continues for the HX-701. I will post on some forums. Cheers man.

[@andyvan5692]

All sensors are

[@pierrebessette2018]

Hello. Do you think it still could be au good choice today ? Or there is better for the same price in the second hand market. Thanks !!!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I’m not sure what the question means. The number of pixels of an iq140 are enough to make quite large prints. CCD sensor quality are much better than cmos but they need good lighting since you can’t elevate the iso very much.

[@jasonj7904]

Thank you! I know this is old, but what you described are the exact reasons I have made the switch too! The biggest question now is with Sony A7R series rivaling the older digital backs is it still worth keeping up or crossing over???

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Poteto potato a camera is a camera. But you can't compare a CMOS 35mm to a Medium format CCD sensor, regardless of the amount of Mpx you get. They are completely different technologies

[@watchme3593]

Thank you! What do you think about owning old digital back like iq1 iq2 H3d etc? Are they reliable? Or is safer to go for a smaller gfx?

[@FKfilmphotography]

I'm seriously considering shooting all my studio work with a digital back, personal projects on film and commercial jobs with my dslr. Would the iq140 be a good choice for my Rz67 ProII? I don;t have the D model mamiya, is that a problem?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Not a problem at all, the Pro IID model only saves you a cable and the latency mode, but still need to get an adapter for it. (HX-701 The one I use for the Pro II - $900) for the Pro II you can use the HX-701 or the HX-705 ($500) the 705 doesn't have connectors so you can use it with the Pro IID without the benefits of the Pro IID. I use the IQ140 for the Pro II with the adapter plate for the Pro IID (pointless really but I didn't know I had another option) The IQ140 is a great option, maybe pricy for many. But the speed its great, and I don't think I will need to upgrade it for a long long time. Personal projects on film sounds great, I want to get into that too. Commercial jobs, I guess jobs where you have to chase people with the camera would be helpful, otherwise I would shoot everything with my RZ (my only camera)

[@FKfilmphotography]

I think until I have sufficient experience and time with the RZ I will be sticking with the 5DIII as it's a workhorse that's never let me down. Through personal projects (safe) I can learn the camera fully. Many thanks

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Hahaha I know how scary it is, my first job with the RZ was a mess but when I saw the results I couldn't go back to DSLR feeling the same.

[@poolmar1967]

Hi.. A little bit off track i am afraid..but i wondering if you could help me? I use a aptus ii 7.... and i noticed yesterday my back will not work with the battery attached..its fine tethered mode..but wont work with the lithium battery..it powers up but the green light wont come on to reveal the screen..the fans are working but nothing else...any ideas?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

paul marshall have you tried another battery? This type of batteries of a 10 yr old technology could not be holding the correct charge no more. Try taking the brightness down so it won't consume too much power. Let me know how it goes.

[@JoseStudios]

Hello Cubano Paul, I think I know what you are talking about. You have to take out the CF card prior to turning it on. Sometimes this happens to me. So, what I do is turn off the digital back, take off the battery, take out the CF memory card, put the battery back on, turn the digital back, wait until it says ready to start shooting, and then insert your CFCard. If this still occurs, you may need to format the card. Let me know if this helps. :)

[@dreamnight-mq1zg]

Do all of the phase one IQ backs have live view without tethering?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I think so yeah. As long as you have the latest firmware.

[@dreamnight-mq1zg]

Thank you. Your videos are one of the best and most informative that I’ve come across on KZbin. It’s so hard to find any information, tutorials or experiences with these digital backs online. Your videos have helped me a lot with my venture into digital backs and the RZ67. I have a leaf Aptus 22 digital back that I use on my RZ67, but I would love to have the phase one IQ for live preview when composing on my large format cameras. It’s quite the hassle to focus on the large format ground glass, then remove and install leaf Aptus to take the shot. The phase one IQ backs with live preview would work much faster and accurately with live preview. Thanks again Ryuzakki San. “Arigato Gozaimasu”

[@pdiseris]

Are you sure the CMOS sensor from Leaf is really that different from the CCD sensor? have you compared the file? I'm thinking of getting the Leaf Credo 50 so I can shoot high iso conditions as I really love shooting natural light and I run into issues all the time with the Aptus II 7.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

CMOS sensor and CCD sensor read light information differently, the data you get out of each sensor looks different, for CCD sensor each pixel sends exactly the amount of light they receive while CMOS sensors have an amplifier chip for each pixel that “regulates” the output data value the pixel gets based on pixels around it, unavoidably resulting on a lower and “digital” looking image. CMOS sensors don’t deliver what the sensor actually saw but a “refined” version of it. Yes they are different.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

To expand a little, CCD Sensors usually just have a very short amount of ISO values they can handle, from 50-800 or 25-800 depending on the camera and I would not even recommend to go up to ISO 100 or beyond, its too noisy, CMOS sensors thanks to the way they work they can do crazy high ISO and thanks to the amplifiers they have for each pixel they can work faster and have better noise reduction, the only down side is that the photos will look very "digital" in comparison with CCD sensors. It would be just like getting a larger Nikon or Canon file and not really the look of Medium Format Digital from the CCD.

[@AvanPatel]

@@RyuuzakiJulio haha I shoot ISO 400 on my p40+ all the time! Very film like, love it

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

@@AvanPatel Hahaha you wild man. I rather add the grain on post than get the digital noise.

[@simeonkolev1231]

I wish you to get soon the big one ;).

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Simeon Kolev a lot more coins and a lot more retouch. Not that I wouldn't want it but I'm very happy with the 40 mpx I have now.

[@simeonkolev1231]

PS the rearrangement of pixels I think was made with minor sensor movement on those digital backs. Something like the current Pentax pixelshift technology which takes 4 exposures with 1 pixel movement of the sensor and than combines it. It gives effective 24/36mp(depending on the model of the camera).

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

+Simeon Kolev sounds interesting to see what results we can get with that.

[@simeonkolev1231]

Well on the Pentax K1 it is a killer. If you find sharp enough lens and you deal with the limitations of the technology the final result is real 36mp image. It is amazing - every pixel is different from its neighbour. And because it captures 4 exposures it is improving noise and dynamic range a lot even at high iso. The problem is that you must have no movement in the scene and you can't use flash. But for scenes where you can use it... it is like shooting on something around 60-70mp and than downsize it to 36 :).

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

+Simeon Kolev Scarry

[@pablodeloy6837]

HELLO I HAVE A 645 TL PRO, CAN YOU RECOMMEND A DIGITAL BACK FOR IT? THANKS.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

IQ180

[@pablodeloy6837]

@@RyuuzakiJulio SORRY WHAT BRAND IS IT?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

@@pablodeloy6837 PHASE ONE

[@thecooldude71]

64 celsius?! Come on Julio. Let's be real, that's an over exaggeration... That's over the hottest air temperature ever recorded...

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

aparently so. i guess my memory failed me

[@thecooldude71]

@@RyuuzakiJulio haha just thought it was funny, all good

[@Crispy_Bee]

Ahhhh aren't the 100MP and the 80MP sensor both a tiny bit smaller than the 60MP sensor? The 100MP and 80MP Phase One sensor are both 53.7 x 40.4mm whereas the 60MP 53.9 mm x 40.4 mm big. Not that that's a huge difference but I think you've got that mixed up at the beginning...

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

photographer85 you are right. I was in the impression that the 100 mpx was a full 645 frame.

[@Crispy_Bee]

I think they all qualify for full frame, those few mm don't really matter that much :) it was just a small detail

What I really don't get is the insisting annoying moronic background jingle💩 ?Good bye at 1:15.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

😂 LMAO! Yeah I guess ain’t everyone’s cup of tea. Some other videos I’ve used BGM that are common in Japanese KZbin channels and foreigners call them elevator music. Hard to please everyone. But I do really appreciate the comment, feel free to message me if you have some questions about digital backs. Maybe I can help.

[@kelvinxu3058]

Yeah, you are right. When talking about ccd. the capability of handling color and transition from highlight to shadow looks much much much better than iq250 or some other cmos digital backs. Japanese manufacturer, they abosulely don't understand photography, everything on specs sheet looks good but still produces shitty image with wrong color rendering especially like over saturated color on gemstone. If shoting on diamond ring. The highlight part that cmos produces looks just simply over exposed, no any Information at all, just pure white. Even the Nikon ten years old camera d70 can do a pretty good job on these. Sometimes photography is not about pixels , dr or high ISO, it is all about image quality on low ISO !!!!! Those Japanese manufactors abosulely go a wrong way. Keep a ccd back, that's a choice of keeping image quality.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Shen Xu when you get to this level of technology I totally ignore the nationality where the company is registered, I mean is not like only Japanese work there, or it’s like those Japanese said, let’s create a photographic sensor that will better represent our country’s ideals and traditions. One thing is true. Without CMOS sensors no cellphone would have a decent camera. We would still be struggling with those flip phone cameras from the 2000s and CMOS is great for action and low light photography. (When the quality of the image is less important than the moment is capturing) in my field we don’t capture “moments” we create everything inside for a product or an artist and it needs to be as polished as possible. That’s where CCD has no rival... yet