Learning To Timber Frame Made Easy Part 2: The Mortise and Housing

[@alexwilson9311]

I can imagine our ancestors hundreds of years ago making the same joints there is definitely something old world about timber frame joints thanks for a great video Jim 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺

[@milesgray60]

I Just wanna say I really appreciate that you left the entire process of what you are doing without cutting from one clip to the next really fast.

[@cavemandancer]

Good to see you back and doing well. God bless you and glad you recovered and are back at it.

[@mikes1345]

Hey guy, I love the different tools used in this process. Hand tools on steroids! Just the old time process used for centuries is enjoyable to watch. Heck even learning something is fun.

[@kurtdietrich5421]

We have so many of the same tools, right down to the buck knife. Had one in my pocket since 1973. First one lasted 35 years until it just wore out. Working on my second one. I experienced the difference between green and partially dried timbers. Definitely harder to work the drier timbers. Great to see that I learned your lessons well. I did my framing using your methods and it worked out very well. Have a good one.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

It should be mandatory to carry one!

[@mikehegdahl5393]

I know whiners are frustrating, but, I also know you like giving it back. Lol

[@jamesharris7868]

Enjoyed that Jim really good info for us learners.Nice to see you got the old transitional out and working 👍

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Thank you James

[@retiringrenegade9874]

Thanks again for the lesson teacher! Well done Jim! Will be following this series seriously!

[@pamelaarescurrinaga8201]

Enjoy seeing the barn in use. Must be very satisfying.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

It certainly is. My poor wife probably misses me.

[@randolphlearning5255]

Jim you are rockin . The light coloured shirt works, the light is reflected back on to your work piece. Can't wait for the next installment.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Thank you

[@markgoode4109]

Very helpful. I look forward to seeing the next one in this series. Thanks for sharing and best wishes. :)

[@N8sk8bus]

This is my new favorite channel, found u a few months ago when I started planning a timber frame, keep the videos coming

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Thank you very much.

[@Edgardocelectric007]

Hey Jim just started getting your notifications after a long while so glad you’re in good health and punchy as ever, my wife and I just found that perfect piece dirt on a hill and I can’t wait to get started on my build. Sharping my skills so I’m ready. Biggest headache I have now is finding a good Architect that works with timber frame that’s doesn’t want to chew half your leg on your project 😀😀😀

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I wondered where you went, once this barn was pretty well wrapped up I lost a lot of the regulars. Now I'm gearing up for another timber frame and will be hitting the woods again for timber soon. I'm happy to hear you found a piece of land, that will be an exciting thing for sure.

[@reylaferriere1990]

Great Refresher Bud, Got some projects coming up in the spring

[@ssx2channel977]

Jim great job and thanks for the review. Dry wood is harder to cut then green. Looking forward to the next one. Stay safe and dry.💚💜🛠⚒👍🏻

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Thank you Don

[@evergreenorganics]

Just got my Big Al in the mail. Pretty excited to have one in my toolbox.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Atta boy. They work well.

[@yraggrebdnul]

Well Jim, I heard you say you’re going to buy a new chain mortiser. I have two, one is the Makita and the other is a Mafel. The difference in price is huge. The Mafel is very fast and accurate. The chain cuts perpendicular to the arris whereas the Makita cuts parallel to it. No clamping is required with the Mafel and the ease of operating amazing. The width of the mortise determines which chain assembly you use with the Mafel. It has a 1 1/2” and a 2” option. The 1 1/2” cuts a little more than 1 1/2”, about 1/32” wider in fact. I am still using the Makita though and am going to try using it on the housings. Anyway just wanted to tell you what I’ve learned here so far.

[@grahamallen3941]

Hi Jim, enjoyed this one. It’s nice just to re-cap and get a reminder of how it should be done and making life easy for yourself. I always think slow and sure not fast and oh hell I’ve got to cut another!!! Take care and be safe. Graham🇬🇧🇬🇧♥️🌿

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I find it's better to enjoy the process.

[@twagner6155]

I have a huge corner chisel 1" or 1 1/4" I touched it, sharpened it that's it. I have for years used a 1/2" Stanley plastic handled chisel, used in some of my videos for any mortice or other tasks. Sometimes I use my smaller chisels, I don't like big chisels. I used that 1/2" Stanley on 2 entry doors for Habitat because some dudes from the Whirlpool factory messed them up. I changed the strikers and hinge pockets with it. Doors and windows take time to do them right.

[@neilaleksandrov2655]

Love the instruction and also the music… what is the artist (when you were chiseling the mortise)?

[@Ham68229]

Fire alarm? Sounded like our tornado sirens here in KS. One day I do intend on building a timber frame workshop myself, more info out there the better for folks to learn. Learned the knife wall method from Paul Sellers. The Japanese method is similar, they start from the center and work outward, only they go for true perfection. No gaps, no seams. Great video, looking forward to seeing more. Cheers :)

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

They are masters of their craft

[@JimRogers117]

Thanks for the mention in the comments. And in the video.

[@DCxRecon]

Can’t wait to see your next episode on bracing!!!

[@ensen89]

Hello Jim and followers, I have a few tips for beginners. Starting the saw and sawing to the line is difficult. When you make relief cuts on the housing, lay them all out and cut them accurate as practise, before you cut the ouside walls. Especially if it is your first timber frame joint ever. Does not matter if handsaw or power saw. Making the layout with a knife is good. I like to deepen the knife line with a chisel. That helps to start and guide the saw. Sometimes I take a smaller and finer saw just to get the cut going before switching to a big saw. I dont own a chain mortiser. I like to drill most of the waste out, remove loose chunks with the chisel and then cut the mortise with router and template. If the router cant go deep enough, that is not bad, because the routed surfaces are good guides and bearing surfaces for the chisel to cut all the way to the buttom. That is not by any means as productive or as fast as a chain mortiser, but it is faster than doing everything by hand and for beginners also more accurate.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Good info

[@retiringrenegade9874]

Thanks for the great tips!

[@patrickgreen7308]

Good

[@patrickgreen7308]

Right

[@patrickgreen7308]

Right

[@clayrobinson7873]

That chain Mortimer is cool!

[@lldrabek4569]

dont you get tired of people that sit back and pick to pieces what any body says . i bet they really lead a wonderful life if thats all they do. have a great day GUY...

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

You got it

[@KrugerrandFarms]

There you go again, makin' it look easy. Got to send you my lay out tool I think you'll like it.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I'll give it a try

[@TheLightningLou]

I might just need one of those layout tools. Another great video, thanks again.

[@danielluma2948]

It's been awhile since I was able to watch your channel. Been really busy with cutting logs from the wood's got a lot of great looking logs .my yard looks like a saw mill logs everywhere. About 30ty logs at my place and 50ty at my brother's place. Hickory ,Ash ,Pin oak,walnut, we have been busy very busy

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Wish I was working with you.

[@danielluma2948]

@@TheTradesmanChannel you would have liked what my brother and I was cutting down. I got a 50 inch by 60 ft pin oak log ,a lot of good looking ash that is still great looking wood ,black cherry that was laying under a bunch of brush witch I almost feel over. Poison ivy out the ying yang, I had to get a shot . Got a 30 inch by 80 ft shag bark hickory that had the top broken out. We noticed that some of these tree's we was dropping the bottom of the root was rotten but up a ft it was very solid wood. Plus this wood's was never log out . There's a red oak tree I'm guessing it's over 300 year's old it's over 6ft across and back further in the woods there is another oak that I will get next year it's already down its 4ft across 60 ft long and that tree took down other tree's when it fell. This wood's also has them widow-makers that we have to be very careful with taking them down. To much overhang. Well that's next year project. That was 3 week's of cutting trees. And we didn't get into the other wood's maybe after harvest is over . Well back to cutting an splitting . Oh I was wondering if you heard about watching using some fuel for your chainsaw to make sure that the fuel is ethanol free cause guys have had their own saws lock up like my brother he had to get his saw rebuilt 350 bucks ? I been using 91 octane and had no problems. Take care have fun at what you are doing

[@howardemery1443]

thanks jim very good video

[@kurtdietrich5421]

I used the forstner bit method. I used two squares to line up the bit to be plumb and vertical. It worked pretty well. Just couldn't go for $1100 for a chain mortiser. Maybe I'll get one if I do another timber frame.

[@angelchiqui818]

Nice video ,where can buy the lay out squere it's amazing?

[@bluethunder1951]

Looking forward to the next one, would also be nice to see the draw bore layout? I have a chain mortiser too, and agree its the way to go to save time and energy.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I will cover the draw bore

[@DCxRecon]

I love your channel man. I’m hoping to build a timber framed shop and I appreciate you taking it back to the basics! I love that you speak frankly and don’t pull any punches either. We need more channels like yours!!! Thanks guy! 😬

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Directness gets the message out easier. By the way, your avatar picture is brilliant.

[@exroyalcanadian]

Good to see you chipping away at some timber framing joints....hope all is well your way.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Doing well, even with all of the craziness.

[@davidwhite6506]

I have been enjoying your videos can you recommend a book or resource that would have guidelines on what size joinery to use on different size timbers thanks

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

A Timber Framer's Workshop by Steve Chapelle is excellent.

[@bruce1816]

Morning there Jim, good video !!!

[@GeorgeJirout]

Got to finish this one at the farmstead! Simply amazing Jim!! Thank you for everything. You may remember my feet 🍖 ;) I get it!!

[@joseortiz5965]

That was awesome.

[@kellyburnham2795]

Where can I find that layout tool you are using?

[@MrEborel]

Hey bud, know where I can get a big al? Those things are hard to come by as of late. What are the dimensions if that thing, could prob get one made. I see em a lot with guys online.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I'll measure mine up and let you know. Look up Jim Rogers on TheForestryForum.com, he might have some in stock.

[@MrEborel]

Hey thanks man! Speaking to em now. Your videos are good to go man! Always a pleasure, totally inspired me, taking the leap. Im sure I’ll watch your videos at least 100 times over, and the books, I read all i can get my hands on, time to pitter patter lets get at er. Thank for the info.

[@JF-fx2qv]

What is worn out on the chain mortiser ? This is no cheap machine ? Can it be repaired ? As for the mortise face running true with the reference face .... do you have your way of checking ? I appreciate the series. Thanks.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

The base linkages and mechanisms are trashed, no replacement parts for this model. As for the trueness of the mortise, you can check them with a combination square from the reference face.

[@theworshiptraveler6709]

Hey Mr. Jim what a difference between green wood and in this case petrified wood. Lol. Always love to watch you do Timber frame joints.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I love the timber work.

[@GeorgeJirout]

Good morning Jim!

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Hello George

[@stewarthousehold]

I'm a woodworker by hobby, with a lot of experience in stick framing. Beginners question on timber framing. Why not using a jig and a plunge router to at least get to a final chisel point?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

You absolutely can. I generally don't due to imperfect timbers but it is often done and works just fine.

[@nesgets]

Hey Jim great series Any chance brother you could talk about timber selection please

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I sure can

[@wr3bit]

where can I get big al ?

[@thirdroompro]

What state are you in Mr. Tradesman? I am working on a farm/barn in Springfield,VT. Could use some consulting here for sure.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I am about 4 or 5 hours west of you

[@bawehjerox5030]

Hey Jim at 8:41, we can see that the housing is cut in the best plane even though this is the "perfect" reference plane that does not need to be rectified. Is this for demonstration purposes to show how to do the housing in case it's needed or for structural purposes (rest shoulder for the beam)? Thanks!

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Good morning. It was purely for demonstration on this one. I hardly use reductions because I take a lot of time on the milling.

[@raymondhill3446]

Good morning Jim, You know I watched you build that barn and I'm still enjoying these videos just as much as I did those! I'll never build a tember frame but I sure find it interesting! I may some day build a shed or something of smaller scale using the same technique. Hope all are doing well! To the "guy" who doesn't like "guy", get a life man! Take care Jim!

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Thank you Raymond, go for the shed, you won't regret it.

[@Fight2BeFreeNeverGiveUp]

Hello my friend what size would you do the tenon and mortise and depth, as a rule off thumb for 6 inch square beams please. Also on part 1 video you said that you never have them centred but this is what you are doing. So confused now. Thanks

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

On a 6" timber I use a 1.5" tenon and mortise. Go through the Timber Framing Vlog Playlist, I get pretty detailed on the joinery I'm a lot of those videos.

[@Fight2BeFreeNeverGiveUp]

@@TheTradesmanChannel thanks I have watched nearly or probably all off your blogs I have so many scrap paper with so many bits of info and just had a big delivery off green Douglas fir delivered to start a project for my son . So thar 1 1/2 is what I had written what is the length advised and what is advised for corners thank you

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Length on tenon depends on where it goes. From a tie beam to wall post I like to go all the way through with a diminished haunch of a minimum 3/4" at the bottom. For tenons on top of the post going into the bottom of a horizontal timber, I do a stub tenon. On a 6x6 around 4" tall for the tenon. Make your mortises about a 1/4" deeper than the tenon. On layout, if your doing a 1.5" tenon, start your joinery 1.5" in from the reference face.

[@barrybonesteel9235]

Do know were i could buy a big al lay out tool thanks barry

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Unfortunately they are no longer being produced. You might try Timber Frame HQ, Bryce over there might be able to get his hands on one.

[@Tellular]

Great videos. I sure appreciate them. Do you have problems with your joinery looking good and staying tight in the long run due to shrinkage from building green? Is there anything you do in anticipation of this?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Actually have no issues, everything kind of shrinks together. Tapered pegs and draw boring is a way work with that issue.

[@tacticalrabbit308]

I enjoyed watching you build the building and watching you do this video my only question is what are you going to make out if that timber you put together in this video ?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

This is just a demonstration piece but there is another timber frame in the works, should be cutting timber soon.

[@tacticalrabbit308]

@@TheTradesmanChannel and here I was thinking you could turn it into a work bench or table

[@pdcarpen]

Question about building with green timbers. I have gotten mix responses to that question about building with southern yellow pine. Do you think it is best to mill that lumber and immediately use it what I have been told cut 20% over stack it and let dry for a year then resaw to to size for use. They say it twists so much. What is your take on it all. Thanks again for the videos just found you not too long ago and have already made threw mostly all your videos. Binge watching has been a blast.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Use it as quickly as possible, that stuff will move a lot.

[@pdcarpen]

TheTradesmanChannel thank you so much for the reply.

[@bryanmoir]

Hey Jim... Are all of your mortises through mortises?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Only on the vertical timbers.

[@rsgpartsdivision]

The "Big Al" is grand, but for someone "learning to timberframe" should it be a required tool? It does go very well with the "made easy" theme. Do you have a toolbox inventory for "making it easy"? Chain mortiser nice to have but if you are "learning", do you have to go out and buy one? Or maybe I'm interpreting the theme incorrectly. This is after you have beat yourself up using minimal tools you "re learn" to do it easy?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I'm more trying to get across the theory and that it is much simpler than it looks. I have 100s of videos out using nothing more than a framing square, a circular saw, cordless drill and so on. This is more of an attempt to make the theory behind timber framing easier to digest.

[@rsgpartsdivision]

@@TheTradesmanChannel Yes, I'm building my 1st frame with help from your very good earlier vids. Modest tool inventory and it is pretty easy once you get the layout rules. Hate the mistakes. There always are some.

[@JimRogers117]

You can layout housing with the Big AL

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I see that now, I'll learn it.

[@talleyrand2739]

JIM try next time useing the hand saw and note you are a Left hander point your fore finger along the handle gives you guide have been at it for 68years building with hand tools we use Hard wood where i live very well done and informative for those new to it ,YES know of what you speak it catch,s up with you later ,OH for a back brace allthose years ago

[@bretthouser8330]

where is your flat tape measure, the timber frame one?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I use it on long timbers still

[@michaelsrowland]

Where is part one doing the tenon?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

It's in a playlist on the main channel page.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Okay, pause the video at the very beginning... i see from the toenail that you have a "BigAl" if I remember the name correctly. Cool to see that tool from another framing channel. Edit: Morning Jim. Yes, it's true, I've been cheating on you with other timber framing channels. [Pause for shock effect.] Good to see some more timber framing discussion on here. You certainly seem more in your element on this topic. You speak with a bit more authority and joy in your voice. It's good to see. See you next time, friend.

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

You cheatin shit!

[@shanebeaudrot777]

Are we jamming to Justin Johnston?

[@djmoulton1558]

Why wouldn't you use a router to take the shoulders out of the housings?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I usually do but I did it this way because a lot of people want to know how to do it by hand.

[@djmoulton1558]

Okay, thx.

[@brentonpiper3451]

I'm a fireman and I jumped up because I thought our whistle was blowing!

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Nice, that is funny.

[@jacobceparano]

You say this is the harder way to do a housing. What's the easier way?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

Use a router, that's how I do all of mine. Look through the Timber Frame vlog playlist, I show how to do it in a bunch of videos.

[@totherarf]

If it were easy everyone would be doing it! It's not and they are not eather. Simple is a whole other thing though! K.I.S.S. ;0)

[@Grunt49]

Somebody is offended? Want to go deer hunting?

[@TheTradesmanChannel]

I agree with you, all the way!

[@e.r.1492]

Can’t say guy now? Lol oooook