Glock swell solved with Redding GRX die

[@DT7967]

The real issue is the unprotected back part of the casing in the chamber, which is why I switched to aftermarket barrels in my Glocks

[@L3001USPSA]

I've been using the carbide GRx die for at least 5 years. It's the best thing that ever happened to a .40 S&W reloader. No more worries about bulged brass causing a death jam during a match. I store my clean brass and resized brass just like you do.

[@v01tes5]

I was looking for the best possible and most efficient way to solve the bulge issue with my cleaned cases. This my friend is the best one I think. Thanks for the video. Subbed.

[@m4rvinmartian]

*Wow, it's crazy I found this really old video of yours looking for content on bulged cases.*

[@lucast3006]

Prices have really up for the GR-X 40! It was $74.99 for the carbide version when you made this video, and now the one I just ordered was $110 in 2023 😕

[@LegallyArmedAmerica]

In regards to the "swelling" issue, I have not had a problem with case length after approximately 12 reloads, give or take. I have a large batch of .40 brass that I add to, take from, and resize/reload, so my reload numbers are hard to quantify in terms of specific count per case. I have not heard of any issues of length while doing a little informal research on various sites and blogs for this segment. Good question though! Hopefully we'll get a response from a real expert on here!

[@Swede109g]

The picture that is at the beginning of this video of a "Glocked" case is actually a case with a 'smiley'.. That case is ruined for all practical purposes. A 'Smiley' is where the case has been exposed to 'excessive' pressure where the case actually 'tears'. A 'bulge' is ok... That bulge can be sized down with no problem. When you see a visible 'crack' on the brass shaped like a 'smile', throw it away.. It has been compromised and is not safe.

[@edstimator1]

I totally agree. You have to examine automatic brass extra carefully due to Glock Bulge. I like Glocks but they sure do throw a wrench in the whole reloading for auto's deal.

[@warrenrosen2326]

That was my question. Does removing the bulge also remove the weakness caused by the bulge?

[@Swede109g]

@@warrenrosen2326 unfortunately no. A simple bulge you can size back to shape, but once the case is 'smiled', it is no longer safe to shoot.. the case is at this point compromised.

[@artifacthunter1472]

The Glock bulge is at the bottom base of the case, not near the middle. It’s low enough, where the resizing died does not go down far enough to resize that portion on the Base.

[@mwm1960]

For sure the GRX and the Lee Factory Crimp dies both will produce the appearance of safe and functional loaded cartridges. However consider what happens to the case fired in the Glock chamber The case expands to fit the loose chamber: a not so worrysome thing but the greater concern is the unsupported case lower chamber causes the case to bulge and thin in that section. No amount of resizing will restore this thinned section to original wall thickness. Subsequent firing will further thin this section if the cartridge happens to position itself over the unsupported chamber area. Many reloadings can sometimes be safe but the fact is thinning of most of this case circumference. The safest practice is to not reload unsupported Glock oem barrels. Glocks are designed and sold for the intended market of military, police and self defense where the cases are not reloaded. There are aftermarket barrels available that better support the case while still maintain reliability.

[@jonwilob6458]

If the bulge is removed, sure the cartridge WILL chamber. However, depending on the severity of the bulge the case definitely has been stressed in that area. If after loading that de-bulged cartridge in a firearm with too little support in the same area as that which caused the initial bulge and, if by chance, it again lined up perfectly with an unsupported chamber area it would seem to me there could be a potential for disaster. Bulging is taking place in an area of the case where the brass is quite thick relative to the rest of the case. It stands to reason displacing that much casing metal would tend to "work harden" the metal when it is de-bulged! This would make it more brittle and subject to possible failure. I'm sure the probability of everything lining up perfectly again in the "work hardened" area is infinitesimally small, but it nevertheless IS possible. A person has to determine whether a 10 cent piece of brass is worth taking the chance of destroying a firearm, loosing an eye, hand or something much worse? To me the answer is obvious. Anything that can go wrong.........you know the rest! To recall a famous movie one liner...."do you feel lucky - well do 'ya punk?" Kaaaaboooooom! How lucky do 'ya feel now?

[@johnwilliams40]

+jon wilob when brass is fired it swells/the bulge area may be swelled a little more because of the unsupported area of the chamber but once you size with the bulge tool and resize with the reloading dies the brass should be back to spec.Then it is just a matter of common sense to inspect your brass to make sure there are no cracks ect., in the brass I have been using the Lee bulge buster kit for my Glock 22 the brass does not differ from any other cartridge I reload for-100 percent reliability when shooting.I have always made it a habit to check my brass,no matter what cartridge I load for and if you make this a practice you will catch any problem brass that may become brittle /cracked-inspection is part of the reloading process

[@jonwilob6458]

OK, now I see what you were driving at. I thought you were talking about the "smiley face" area of the brass in the unsupported area of a barrel. What you're doing is just fine. Good page partner..

[@edstimator1]

You Sir, hit the nail on the head. That is EXACTLY the problem. The solution is imho not to cycle the brass as much as you would in other guns or buy an after market bbl for your Glock.Luckily 9mm brass is EVERYWHERE so replacing brass is super easy.

[@tsechejak7598]

This is exactly why reloading 40 and glock don’t work, in spite of a conservative and spec load, that brass shouldn’t be shot in anything other then a steyr m40 or similar good chamber support! I can’t use an aftermarket market barrel in my p80, when i do the RSA jams up on disassembly bad and have to rubber mallet tap back of slide to get it off. Its a p80 frame. This only started happening recently and so far with factory barrel back in I don’t have slide getting stuck, but it may start. Long story short I early on swapped in aftermarket barrel because of chamber support in 40cal my barrel is double diamond grom glockstore annd its been very reliable firing and very very good chamber support, better then LWD or stormlake. Just recently even with brand new rsa purchased the slide gets stuck so something about the barrel has changed with how it’s supposed to pick rsa back up good enough to clear the frame and is t anymore. Sorry for the rant.

[@gunslinger3090]

i forgot, factory ammo can still blow you glock up i have seen it. i have reloaded for 35 years. if the camber is not fully supported it don't matter if you shoot reloads or factory.

[@jrdeckard3317]

In order to increase reliability further, Glock has eliminated the chamber completely. Cartridges fired in this gun swell to the size of basketballs.

[@Baltimoreed]

I have used a Lee Bulge Buster on my loaded 45acp reloads forever. It sizes the entire base of the case where a sizing die can’t reach. You can feel some loads tighten up at the base, pop free and then tighten a lot as the rim goes through the die. My understanding is is that the damage is done to the case when fired in a Glock’s unsupported chamber. Even if resized completely if the weakened part of a case happens to orient itself back where it’s unsupported again you could have issues. I have a G21 that I plan to reload lead ammo for. I have invested in a 6 inch Spectre slide/bbl.

[@biophillie]

Not arguing about anything here, just saying I do have some concern about glock barrels because that 6:00 unsupported spot in my g27 has caused me issues using my hand loads. I thought i “should” be ok because I check every round with the Wilson Go/No-go gauge, and if I cant get a round to fit the gauge, I considered it a reject and just use it for plinking or pull the bullet. My loads are medium-warm and match the speed of the factory Hornady critical defense loads w/ their hp/xtp’s. Had a few reloads on my cases and use the bulge buster push through die first in the process. Was out shooting and noticed my accuracy went away, but gun was still cycling ok, seemed ok, but stopped to check. Had blown a head off a case and the case was actually stuck in the barrel acting like a sleeve while (i believe, can’t be sure) rounds were cycling through it. Either way, I consider myself lucky and learned a good lesson the easy way. There was no damage done. Now, I just don’t like the way the brass has to keep moving and fatiguing on each re-load cycle with the glock factory barrel. I bought a nice match barrel and as long as I stick with using the checker on every round, it hasn’t jammed at all. But it makes sense why Glock gives you clear warning with new guns, “Do not shoot reloaded ammo, only factory”. They are covering their tail and I believe for good reason. If using new cases there is no issue and you can trust the reliable glock, use stressed, reloaded cases with your glock factory barrel, you are moving into a grey area. That’s my two cents worth. I am not a professional. Hey! you probably know better though..

[@fredkilian4049]

The head of the case is the rim and primer area, is that what you meant got stuck in your barrel ?

[@biophillie]

Frank Klan sorry just noticed the question.. The head, “rim with spent primer” had disappeared. only thing left was the rest of the case acting like a sleeve in the chamber. Looks like all that got ejected on that firing was the head. i still have the case/sleeve. I “think” it actually chambered and fired more rounds through the sleeve before i noticed, not sure, will look again for evidence of cases scoring the inside of the brass sleeve, probably measure the ID i havent actually measured the inside of the chamber to see if there is room enough for all that or not. looks like the cases are around .013 thick so that would mean the chamber would need to have around .026” extra space for that to be possible without an interference fit. Anyways, not saying good or bad about the glock barrel, but i definitely take their warning serious and dont run reloads through it. Aftermarket barrel only with better base support for reloads for me. Yes, as stated by others, glock (and some other mfgs) have increased feed reliability by decreasing base of case support. Cases with compromised base strength due to repeated expansion/resize cycles could hurtcha in one of these very reliably feeding barrels. There usually is a trade-off in just about anything mechanical.

[@jamesleonhard2247]

I really like this product but just looking it up in their catalogue 6/10/17 it prices out at $124.45 Just for the die, +$15.60 for the bottle adapter, +$10.25 for the bottle, totaling $150.30, kinda pricey to fix brass. Or go with the Lee Bulge Buster kit and die for $42.96 total. Just a thought.

[@a68dart340]

Don't use the Lee unless you want a superior product for way less money and much better customer service.

[@edstimator1]

@@a68dart340 I don't think that lee makes one for a 9mm. I had that conversation with a rep and he was explaining that a 9mm has one othe little quirk to it that not everyone is aware of and that is that the case of a 9mm round has a couple thou differnce from the top to the bottom. The top is actually a tad bit smaller and is unique in that design. Because of that lil quirk, Lee won't make a bulge buster for it because of liability. I might be wrong but that's how I remember it and I have won a beer or two on the bet that that case is tapered but feel free to check yourself.

[@a68dart340]

@@edstimator1 Idk what to say but I have the set in 9mm.

[@edstimator1]

@@a68dart340 I had that conversation about four years ago so obviously something has changed since then but I just looked on ebay and the first listing had every set EXCEPT 9mm and said that it couldn't be used on 9mm so I felt safe in the post. Obviously I was wrong but I still haven't seen one myself. I will check the lee website right now. Probably should have done that first.

[@edstimator1]

@@a68dart340 I just checked the lee website and NOPE......you must have gotten the last one. Either that or we are talking about two different things. I was saying that Lee did NOT make one for 9mm. Are you saying they do? Cuzz their website says they don't.

[@lessmith1409]

I allways use brand new brass for reloads.

[@Trumplican]

almost every reloader can resize their cases properly thats not the problem. The issue is with that extra clearance the casing can become weak after reloading especially multiple reloads and you can get a case head separation.

[@jmmuench]

That is my thought too. To put it another way, once the glock bulge appears, the brass is already somewhat compromised. Removing the bulge does not restore the cartridge case to its original integrity. Each subsequent time you weaken that part of the case by firing in a glock barrel and resizing/removing the bulge you take one step closer to the case failing. Just IMHO.

[@tires2burn]

I have been reloading range brass for 10 years with my Lee depriming sizing dies in all calibers and have never had a cartridge not fit the chamber I was loading for. The example you showed not fitting the Glock chamber was not sized after firing. Its true the Glock chambers are sloppy but if its resized first with a cheap Lee sizing die it will drop right in. A lot of drama over nothing. The guys that are blowing up their guns are reloading the same brass over & over with hot loads. I load 40's but not for Glocks.

[@Rebollozo247]

very good information. new to reloading, and i had no idea about the glock swell. going online and getting me this kit. thsnks again for taking the time and explaining how everything works.

[@LegallyArmedAmerica]

Jesse Rebollozo thank you sir! We appreciate the feedback. Please subscribe if you are not already a subscriber.

[@Rebollozo247]

Subscribed right after the video was over.

[@LegallyArmedAmerica]

Jesse Rebollozo thank you much!

[@edstimator1]

I think you are going off "half cocked". If you are new to reloading you shouldn't take everything you see on youtube as gospel. You might wait until you fully understand the problem and the solution. Perhaps speak to the technicians at Lee. Lee makes bulge busting dies for just about every caliber EXCEPT for 9mm. There is a reason!. Perhaps talking to them will enlightn you. They have a little experience. Or take your chances and go for it. It's your face and you have the right to blow it up if you want to.

[@elvinferrell7266]

That case bulge is the reason for not using reloads. If you have a tendency to reload just a little hotter than factory loads, the case may blow out at the unsupported section. This will result in ejecting the magazine, blowing off the grip portion of the frame and paossible parts of your hand.

[@joesmith-fi1sx]

Just fired some reloads through my g21 and noticed all the brass almost had big swell at the bottom

[@jamalski70]

Good information sir. Could you please link where you purchased these Redding GRX dies.

[@michellalonde5894]

If you want to improve your brass catcher can, just insert a soft plastic disc between the bottle neck and the adapter. This plastic disc has to be really soft and flexible. cut the disc the proper size, drill a hole in it's center, 1/4" hole to 3/8" hole, then with a sharp knife or scisors cut 6 to 8 lines across the hole, so it will create pizza slices like cuts. DON'T GO SIDE TO SIDE, Keep some material on the side, so it will remain 1 piece and not become 6 or 8 seperate pieces... This little slotted disc will act as a no return stopper, so when you will remove the bottle from the die, no cases will fall... it will do the job for you.

[@grizzlybeardipper1]

Extent video. I ran into this swell problem today and was about to pull what little hair I have left when it me that some of my brass was from a batch of range brass my father had picked up and gave to me, I had to have been in a hurry or something to have not marked it properly, so when you showed your proses for keeping things seep rat it hit me like a brick that there's no excuse for safety and like you said if your not going to do it right then don't do it. Thanks for time keep up the great work.

[@LegallyArmedAmerica]

Thank you Dalton!

[@bobc.5324]

My brass catcher is dirt cheap. I took a Pringles potato chip container with a hole in the side at the closed end it fits over the resizing die at a slight downward angle and a can sitting on the bench. The brass is pushed out of the resizer, slides down the Pringles can and drops into the catch can. Been using this for years. No need to sort the brass separating the Glock and the non Glock brass. Also, changed to an aftermarket barrel with cut rifling and tighter chamber. The reloads work reliably in all of my 9mm handguns.

[@jasonweishaupt1828]

Never had the problem. When the shells start getting squeezed tight in my Lee factory crimp I toss the brass after the next firing.

[@notsomellow]

Great video! Thanks for taking the time and explaining. Wish I would have known about the "swell" before I bought my RCBS dies.

[@edstimator1]

You still need all those die.....you just need one more which at the moment I can't seem to find but I'm hoping that will resolve itself. I'm looking for a 9mm G-RX Die. It's out there somewhere....I can smell it.

[@Dutch_Prepper]

Hmmmm... But according to Lee , this should not be used with Glock=fired brass ... " Glock Cases: We do not recommend "fixing" cases fired in pistols with unsupported chambers, because there is no way to make them safe once they have bulged. The case wall is thinned where it bulges, and resizing the outside of the case back down to the correct diameter does not restore the case back to its original thickness. If this case is fired in a pistol with an unsupported chamber again, and this thinned section of brass happens to line up with the unsupported part of the chamber, there is a high probability that the case will rupture. "

[@tripplebeards3427]

I ordered a lee factory crimp carbide sizer for my 10 mm the other day. Will serve the same purpose as the Redding but a lot easier on the pocket book. I have lee cast bullet sizers so I already have several base inserts and plastic catch containers. As others have said if you can see a smile or cracks throw your brass away. This is for “expanded” brass that you can’t physically see with your eyes to size back into specs.

[@Mav8887.]

I've never had a real issue with brass from my glocks luckily. I have a sig with really bad chamber support. Bet you could reload that 1911 brass and it would feed / fire fine without sizing if it had enough tension. I was thinking I bet the 1911 brass would fit my case gauge before you even did it! That die is pretty cool!!! It looks like a giant priming stem. I know what you mean..I did the same with brass & my finger on a old Steel A2 press and it truly sucked! I'm just glad I was expanding and not sizing 😬 ive seen decapping pins in people's fingers!

[@knockitstiff]

If you are using reloading tools from Lee Precision, Inc. and have the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die, you do not need to do what is explained in this video. The carbide sizer inside the Carbide Factory Crimp die post-sizes the cartridge while it is crimped so every round will positvely chamber freely with factory like dependability. This was one of the reasons I selected the Lee tool set.

[@mattlord9804]

I just got a Dillon 650 set up for 9mm with Dillon Dies. Are you saying if I get a Lee die set for 9mm I won't have to resize my glock fired brass? or does a reloaded need a Lee press as well. I am really new to reloading. thanks,

[@knockitstiff]

+Matt Lord I'm fairly certain you cannot use Lee dies with a Dillon press. Not sure if Dillon even offers a die that does what the Lee Carbide Factory crimp Die does. Since you're already tooled up with Dillon, your best option might be the Redding GRX die described in the video. It's another step in the process and will take up more bench space but it does the job.

[@mattlord9804]

+knockitstiff I went looking for the redding grx but it is only made at the moment for 40 S&W. I have a single stage press for a Lee set up,its a RBCS. maybe I will get the Lee bulge buster, thanks

[@knockitstiff]

+Matt Lord send me email at [e-mail]. That's gagnon (underscore) john at yahoo dot com.

[@mattlord9804]

I am at the vet with dogs at the moment. Is sending you an email better than here?

[@UnstoppableYaris]

A relative left me some reloaded PMC and AE Federal 45ACP... Didn't want to shoot them per Glock factory recommendation. Thanks to your video, I now know it is safe to shoot since my relative had a 1911, on the off chance he picked up someone else's brass, I measured the fit of each round in my barrel. All appear fine and fit perfectly. Thanks a lot for a very informative video! (Everyone else I asked as to why I shouldn't fire reloads from my Glock, they all stated "polygonal barrel" as the reason)

[@SwampOperator]

This is less of an issue with glocks not chambered in 40. 9mm has better support, and 45 is a low pressure round, so less support isn't an issue

[@bloodstone6196]

My shield doesnt have full case support either,.40 caliber left smiley bulge on case heads. Older glocks had a steeper feed ramp that went up under case head leaving it unsupported, my gen 3 23 has a steeper ramp with better support.

[@ditchdigger93]

Don't know of anyone that would load anything without resizing it. I'd never think about doing that with any pistol round. The bigger issue with the Glock is the unsupported chamber at the feed ramp, that is where the famous Glock Smile happens with full power loads and that depends on the brass itself, some don't swell at all, others do with the same exact load.

[@tsechejak7598]

40sw has kaboomed in smith and wesson shield and other platforms as well. Factory specifically in the shield but setback is a problem with 40sw factory ammo or reload doesnt matter.

[@FATL0L0]

Reloading with new brass you won't have any problems in a glock . I use a bar-sto barrel in my glock 29 in 10MM

[@sig7798]

I see this an old post. So the bottom line is if you don't know the history of the brass from range pick up then run the brass through a resizing die. If you don't shoot a Glock then you do not need to worry about the GLOCK - BULGE therefore resizing is not necessary. Your thoughts.............

[@DonziGT230]

It's not just Glock that doesn't recommend hand loads, every gun manual I've read recommends not using hand loads in their guns and use of them voids the gun's warrantee. Reloading for a Glock is actually less of an issue than reloading for a more precise chamber as far as this bulging problem goes, the problem is with the brass you're using having come from a Glock. If one is getting range brass there will be lots of Glock brass as well as other similar bulged brass from other guns. Yesterday I discovered a S&W 40 that bulges brass even worse than the Glocks do.

[@chriskelly509]

Never seen the glock smile from my glock 20...

[@toddszymanski6608]

Great video and explanation. Subscribed from now on.

[@LegallyArmedAmerica]

Thanks Todd!

[@ocean374]

great video now i don't own a glock I'm looking into one does the 9mm has the same problem thanks

[@44hawk28]

There is no reason whatsoever for the chamber to be as Loose as it is on a Glock. There are firearms out there that are just as reliable without that issue. And the other Firearms actually have full controls on it where a Glock does not have a slide release. You must use two hands to release the slide or find something to hooked up rear sight on so you can release the slide on a new magazine. That makes it a 2 handgun not a handgun. Otherwise a hands gun. As for 40 Smith, I've seen Glocks blow up with their first-round fired from Factory ammo in 40 Smith because of the idiot who decided to make d chamber so wide that it split the case. They flirt with the same problem even in 9 mm. I have a Browning hi-power that I have never had a problem with feeding in that has a barely unsupported portion of the chamber, and a CZ variant that has a fully supported chamber that is also completely reliable. Trying to fit a shell that came out of a Glock into the Chamber of a cult is a worthless endeavor. It meant absolutely nothing. I have also reloaded for years and have never had a problem with resizing the brass before I put the round together. But if I ever run across to a firearm that was bulging grass as badly as Glocks do I would either buy a new barrel for it, replace the firearm, or Never by one of the pieces of shit to start with. I've seen far too many of them come apart because of this issue. Detroit Police Department had a number of Glocks blow up because they happen to think that you could run lead bullets through it. Lead bullets will destroy a Glock pistol in as little as 8 to 10 Rounds. If they're using Straight soft lead bullets. The reason is that the polygonal rifling feels up on the ledge so well that it pushes the boys out of its driving band leaving the driving band of the lead bullet in the bore and creates a bore obstruction

[@travelerfourever1347]

Great video, I learned something new. Thank you.

[@ssswdon]

I use hornady full length resizing with no issues. My main reloads are HAP 125 grain. For most of my 9mm I use oal of 1.10 based on plunk test, for glock I have to use 1.084. It seems the chambers are a bit different. It the manufactures load a bit long then I can see where this will be problem

[@artifacthunter1472]

It’s easy to chamber check every single round manufactured in a supported chamber before you go to the range on your reloaded ammo. It’s simple.

[@joefinkeldey8709]

At this point I've seen many videos relating to the glock swell, and this is the best by far because of the step by step explanation backed up by real world measurements and even a comparison. Please consider changing the name of the video because the title makes it sound like a product video when it's at least half about the glock swell and half about the Redding solution. If this video was the first search result for "glock bulge," then viewers who are looking into this situation would be better served than currently, because there's no need to watch any more videos besides this one. "Quality over quantity" for sure; this video is more informative than the (at least) 30 others I've seen on this subject. Something like: "Glock bulge and Redding's solution" wuold be a great title. I know you have settled on the term "swell" but most Google and KZbin searches will be "glock bulge."

[@edstimator1]

You seem to be missing the point. When the "Glock swell" occurs, the case brass is thinned in the area of the swell. Re-sizing the case doesn't fix the thin spot, it simply pushes it back to a point where it doesn't interfere with the cartridge feeding. The brass is weaker and if it realigns with the unsupported ramp it can have a catastrophic failure. AKA Kaboom

[@dsonyay]

Very good video. Using a similar brand for my 10mm reloads.

[@mostlikelywedoitservices6926]

Now I have reloaded shells shot from my Glock 19 without busting them. They cycled just fine. I went through 50 of them. But since I recapture my brass, I can pick up stray shells. So my answer is always bust them and when you run it through the full-length die, it is smooth and easy.

[@mattweidner1657]

I am fairly new to reloading. I reloaded 100 rds of 40 and found out the hard way of the Bulge. I'm sure i need to disassenmble the cartridges before resizing but will I hurt the primers by using the Grx die? Thanks for the great video

[@rich1958]

I get this on my G22 and I only use factory ammo. I also noticed recently that brass casing show primer drag. All that said, my Glock .40 has been reliable since I bought it 5 years ago,

[@seankaminski3648]

Thats why i have a lone wolf barrel in my g20

[@edstimator1]

and so do I BUTT I can't just pick up once fired off a range floor and reload it and that is the issue that needs to be resolved.

[@aplusvictoryproducts5249]

Have you ever cracked the carbide sizing ring in the Redding G-Rx40 Die?

[@KidWanderer79]

I've used my Dillon dies, for Glocks, Sig's, S&W... the works. Never had a single solitary piece not chamber. 9mm, 40sw, 45acp... not sure why this die is needed.

[@a68dart340]

glock has a piss poor chamber design, leads to case deformation, glocks chambers are the equivalent of shit akm 47s tolerences. Loose makes it work but....

[@jmichaelcarbonniere9549]

I know this is a bit if an old vid, but... As I do not load for .40 or 10mm, I'll admit to a bit of confusion. I do reload for a lot of other rounds, including 9mm & .45 Auto. I also reload for 2 Glocks, a 21 & 26. You showed a normally swelled case in your calipers but a seriously bulged case at the beginning. There is a big difference. Any case that is bulged like the one you showed should be tossed into the scrap bin as they will never be completely safe to shoot again, depending on how lucky you are (or are not). The swelled case should be completely resized by virtually any decent resizing die that is set up correctly. I use RCBS or Dillon dies, which are set up to barely bottom out on the shell holder at the top of the press stroke and even with different size chambers, they end up the same. I do have a problem with a .380 (the chamber leaves fired brass looking a bit 'pregnant' but it's due to a slightly bulged - from the factory - chamber.) and a couple of 9mm's, however in the case of the 9's, the difference is opposite - the rounds will fit perfectly into a S&W 6906 but some of those will not chamber in the 26! Partly the reason is I'm really cheap and don't toss brass that still chambers & fires and remains intact... in other words, safe, at least in my guns. I'm also loading these quite light with 115 LRN bullets. Many of these will not cycle my Gen 4 Glock (yes, I shoot lead bullets out of both of my Glocks... you just have to watch for leading). However, loading wise, in the case of the S&W, the brass developes a ring or bulge near, & all the way around the case, at the base, where the size die stops. This brass still fits & shoots fine out of the S&W (I have never had a case failure in the S&W) but will not chamber in the G26! Again, these are very light loads. The only solution is to insert the brass all the way flush with the bottom of the size die and punch it out with a brass rod, eliminating the bulge. Remember, this bulge is all the way around the case, not in one area where the case is unsupported. I currently have a couple hundred cases that have had the FL+ sizing, as I call it, and I currently have them segregated and I'm testing them to see if the life of the case is going to be affected (most of these cases have been reloaded many, many times). But the bottom line is, I have never seen a bulged case, as you displayed at the beginning of the vid, that wasn't the result of a hot load. Very hot, in most cases. That might be the norm for the 10mm but definitely not for the 9mm or .45, and, I'm guessing, the .40. Normal loads, in any caliber I've ever seen fired (including 40 & 10mm), even with the case unsupported in some portion of the chamber (including 1911 pattern pistols, Glocks and S&W's, which all have unsupported areas), there has never been enough pressure to bulge the case significantly. And that includes some +P loads in the .45 ACP ammo I load. A bulged case, as shown at the beginning of the vid, is, in every case I've seen, the result of a too hot load. A swollen case is normal but should always fit back into the chamber it was fired out of. So are your cases bulging like the one shown with normal loads? If so, I would guess there's something else wrong, like a way over sized chamber! Cheers, jc

[@PRACERZ]

Super vid, very well explained, thanks !

[@LegallyArmedAmerica]

Thank you very much!

[@SarahHerberger]

great video I decided to go with this one over the lee bulge buster buy once cry once

[@emandejnozka1369]

Unsupported chambers weaken brass casings excessively. You mainly get two or three SAFE reloads in an unsupported chamber as opposed to maybe ten to fifteen reloads per case in a supported chamber. BE CAREFUL.

[@geoh7777]

It would appear from the evidence you present that Glock "solved" the problem of reliable feeding by means of relying on sloppy chamber clearances. Maybe some aftermarket semi-auto pistol barrels are tighter with their clearances, tighter than military barrels, and apparently Glock barrels. .

[@TOBORE8THMAN]

Glock "reliability" revolves around a barrel that inadequately supports the base of the cartridge. You keep saying "resizing it right..." All commercially available resizing dies will properly resize a cartridge. Only fly in the ointment here is the poor design of the factory glock barrel. Other firearm manufactures produce firearms with fully supported chambers that function just as reliably as glock but without the need for boutique die sets to correct a problem that glock creates. A Lee bulge buster die works the same way. Thanks for the video.

[@doghousedon1]

Just the fact that there is such a thing as a "Glock smile" is enough to make a person toss that thing and get a real gun.

[@dvcavall]

I realize this was recorded 2 years ago. However, as one of the earlier comments stated, resizing Glock fired brass to use again "in a factory Glock barrel" is just dangerous. Just as with any sheet metal that is stretched a good amount, the metal is actually thinned. Yes, you can pound it or press it back to shape, but it is weakened and work hardened. In a supported chamber, no biggie. In a factory Glock chamber it can blow out, and that has happened more than a few times. Today, just invest in a aftermarket, fully supported chamberef barrel for reloading. Only new, unfired cases should be used in a factory Glock unsupported barrel, unless you don't like your Glock and your fingers.

[@edstimator1]

BINGO!!

[@nr1drillah]

Case swells when shot through a Glock, you "push" it back to the right diameter by resizing; Do you have to worry about case length after "x" number of reloads?

[@joesmith-fi1sx]

Hi. Just shot Some reloads through a new to me g21. Instantly noticed the swelling of the case found your video. Awesome ! So are we saying the swell is a normal deal with reloads through a glock ? Or is a dangerous deal ? Factory brass won’t swell up in a glock ? Thanks. Back to finishing video

[@FinkAN_Games]

Is there another company that makes a die that corrects this Glock buldge? Redding doesn't make one for 9mm or 45acp.

[@robertfink1126]

I have that GRX 40 buldge buster Works great. I called Redding to maybe in the future to make a 45acp buldge buster GRX Ivevhad problems with 45 acp buldges Got the lee 45 buldge kit but its not as good as Redding makes for 40 sw

[@bobshouse7949]

You need to edit out the part where it shows the glock brass going in half way.

[@Glock2201]

Great video thanks for doing it. What do you use for lube. I use Hornady one shot for rifle rounds and wondered if that would be ok to use for this as well. I have the steel version not the carbide.

[@mostlikelywedoitservices6926]

On the top. take a flexible plastic food container. Find the center. Now do multiple pie cuts center outward. The outside circle should be bigger than the fitting on top of the press. Trim as needed. Now tape the bottom of the container. Now apply goop over your pie cuts. Let cure. Now the brass drops in the container and when it's full pull it off dump it and shove it back on and away you go.

[@The.Alabama.Woodsman]

Once it is resized, is it now too long? Wonder why they don't offer it in 9mm?

[@samking73]

Heeeyyy, you could always use your cartridge head spacing gauge as a FL die. Or not..

[@Haphagurd]

Thanks! Very informative. will the grx die fit in the Lee breech lock press? also is this common in all glocks? including the 23 .40 s&w?

[@joeleadslinger6138]

Glock smiles ha ha ha. Just buy anything but a glock and don't worry about it.

[@mikemjm748]

You own one lol

[@joeleadslinger6138]

@@mikemjm748 no I don't own any glocks. I trust steel.

[@mikemjm748]

Really? So only iron guns ? Well maybe some day you will

[@alucardtheimpailer666]

Small detail i enjoyed that I'd like to point out. The video duration was exactly 19:11

[@TheFirefox8192]

I have he Lee decapping &resizing die. do I need the die in this video ASAP!

[@knockitstiff]

+TheFirefox8192 If you have the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die, you do not need to do what is explained in this video. The carbide sizer inside the Carbide Factory Crimp die post-sizes the cartridge while it is crimped so every round will positvely chamber freely with factory like dependability. This was one of the reasons I selected the Lee tool set. I will post this up top as well.

[@4739-g9c]

my 45 acp xdmod 2 feeds very reliable including SWC and HP without bulging the brass or compromising the rigidity of the brass. the Redding die does a fine job resizing. THE ISSUE is the "glock fan boy community" is so strong (stubborn, ignorant) , that glock has figured out that they can still make millions without fixing their problems. Honestly, who in their right mind would say. "this is the best gun on earth FTW, it might blow up a few rounds in your hand/face if you're not cautious, but who cares!"

[@yankoyankov7457]

No way to use Redding 's kit ..the Lee kit is at least 4 times less expensive about the same job and for 9 mm u should use the Lee Makarov factory crimp die

[@theindooroutdoorsman]

Lee's Bulge Buster says *not* to use it to reload for a Glock or similar guns with unsupported chambers though. I haven't seen that asterisk on the Redding set up. I'm still trying to figure out which one is best for my firearm before I invest in the materials to start loading .40.

[@jamjim1112]

Have never had this problem and reload brass that is almost exclusivity shot in a Glock. I reload on a dillon press, and it does a very adequate job of re-sizing brass so this is a non-issue. 1911, Smith, Glock, re-size it and it all comes out the same.

[@chuckster243]

Never had that problem with full length resizing using RCBS dies, my 40 has had nothing but reloads through it, never had a problem yet. I have Redding dies also for other calibers and quite frankly, they ain't all that great.

[@jettaguy0119]

Great video man!

[@danielreid3476]

The problem with removing the bulge is that the brass has still been weakened in that spot. There's no getting around that. The only real fix is to not have the bulge at all, and the only way to insure that is to swap the factory barrel for an after market one. I love my Glocks, but they just weren't designed for reloaders. It isn't just 40 S&W and 10mm either. I have even had 45 Auto reloads fired from a G21 with smiles on them. All my Glocks have after market barrels now. Problem gone for good.

[@leroybishop2245]

this is valued info, thanks brother

[@uralbob1]

I know the Gocks are good, but I'm sticking with hammer fired steel pistols and revolvers. Yes, I'm old.

[@jeremyjohnson5999]

Good info. I'm going tomorrow to pick up my Rockchucker kit. Does Glock cause this in every case? i.e. a 9mm and 45acp as well? and if so does that redding die work for those too? I would assume I need to get a caliber specific die. Thanks,Jeremy

[@erniemurdock8658]

I have watched your video and you mention to use the Redding Gx sizing die. What I want to know does Redding make a Gx sizing die, does Redding make a Gx sizing die for a 9mm Luger that would be reloaded in a Glock 9mm.

[@fredkilian4049]

Nine MM is a tapered case not straight wall, that is the problem. There is another way people have done 9mm, look for video on YT.

[@ironDsteele]

So I'm suffering from two types of Glock bulge.

[@price123456789]

I have a new 9 mm Glock 45x and want to reload my own ammunition, but being rather new to handgun reloading I have a few questions. First are the dies for the 9 mm universal, or do I need different dies for the 9 mm Luger vs 9 mm? When I search on dies for the 9 mm, the 9 mm Luger keeps coming up and I am not sure if these dies will work. Secondly, I have many dies for rifle reloading and I have only RCBS dies and press. I am having difficulty finding the RCBS dies for the 9 mm and wondering if there is a substitute of high quality. Finally, I think I am seeing dies with a set of 3 and some with 2. What do I need to hand load a Glock 9 mm? Thanks for any help you might render. I have not reloaded for about 20 years, but used to do a lot of reloading. Any suggestions on the best power to use for reloading 9 mm would be also appreciated.

[@o5245607]

Are Glocks' less accurate because of the sloppy chamber clearances?

[@mwm1960]

Legally Armed America Your video was informative and well produced but I believe you didn't mention that beginners may not understand. that resizing and or bulge busting dies only resize the exterior of the case and do not eliminate the case thinning at the swelled section. This thinng of the wall is the safty concern of reloading Glock oem barrels.

[@SwampOperator]

It aint got nothing to do with throat diameter. It has to do with extra material machined away from the feed ramp . You were correct about it being done to promote reliability. Glocks just dont have as much support at the feed ramp Regardless the sizer featured here works. Check oal of the case though incase something wierd happens

[@judahlion5826]

How many times can you reload and shoot the same Glock case that was swollen, but was resized with the GRX die? I assume after a couple of resizes the case splits?

[@dkveracity65able]

Does the resized brass case get longer in length and need to be trimmed?

[@86djtaylor]

Great video. I have been reloading for a LONG time and I reloaded a lot of .40 caliber for my Glock 23. I also have a Glock 20C 10mm. Here's my question. Lol. since the 40 s&w originated from the 10mm, do you think that this die would work with the 10mm? The dimensions are practically identical except for the length(and primer of course). I would think this die would be great for my 10mm loads. Does it say anywhere in the instructions you got with the die about using it for 10mm? Anyways, great video. I tell people constantly about resizing their Glock brass the RIGHT way and they have the "What the hell are you talking about, "the right way?" They still have yet to comprehend what I'm trying to teach them.

[@86djtaylor]

Well, the grx die does in fact work not only with .40, but with .357 sig and 10mm. Which makes sense because the 357 sig's parent case is a .40 s&w and the 10mm is the parent case of the .40 s&w except for changing the 10mm's large pistol primer to small pistol for the .40 brass. I went ahead and ordered one from midwayusa.com and they had it on sale, 49% off. I got the die and a lee trim gauge for 10mm all for $29.00 and that's with shipping included. I couldn't pass up the die being on sale from $36 down to $19. I been loading my 10mm ammo fairly light to reduce pressure and in turn keeping the brass from swelling too much. It works, but shooting reduced loads in a 10mm is kinda silly. It's like loading ammo for my .300 win mag to .30-06 velocities. Guy's think I'm stupid for loading 10mm's to the velocity of .40 ammo, but id rather do that, than having my chamber on my 10mm come apart and become one of Glock's kaboom statistics. Anyways, I'm glad you posted this video. It helped me in determining which die I should get to base size my 10 mill brass. Keep'em in the 10 ring...

[@tlcoleman128]

Good video, thanks. After you run your .40 brass through the dedicated press with the GRX die to get rid of any case swell, do you then run it through the regular sizing/decapping die in station 1 of your press? Or do you just decap and go to powder,bullet, crimp? i.e. Is the sizing die at station one of your main reloading press, set so that it full length sizes the case all the way (even though it's already been through the GRX) OR is the die set higher so it's mainly for decapping? Thanks. I ran into this reloading for my .40 M&P. 10 out of 60 cases would not feed. I got a case gauge and they didn't fit. I re-adjusted the sizing die and tested it and 1 out of 4 that I tried would not size properly. I had to screw the die even further in.....barely off the shell holder. It corrected but I think this GRX or the Lee Bulge Buster is the way to go for .40. I also think I may have picked up Glock brass at the range......even though I try to only pick up my own brass.

[@LegallyArmedAmerica]

TL Coleman I let it run through the sizing die stage on my Dillon press too

[@tires2burn]

A Lee Depriming Sizer Die is adjusted to touch the shell holder. It full length sizes.

[@bushjared89]

Very good and informative vid brother! I disliks Glock and refuse to own one until they at least offer a safty but my 1911's wil do til that day lol. But again this vid was extremely smart and well thought out. Thank u for your time!

[@davidlane9724]

What do you need a safety for? Does your 1911 have a safety?

[@doYYY-gq1ox]

Do you need to do this for 9mm luger? Thanks.

[@theodorustvermeulen8498]

also tested my casings like this shot from my glock.. not one bulged or swells. out of 600 casings. not one.. is it not on a specific batch or generation?

[@erichandyauto]

What model and generation Glock do you have?

[@Pappy7064]

Roll Sizing is the way to go. Sure the initial investment is expensive but so are your guns.

Glock bulge is when you're happy to see her.

[@rasmilling1885]

Do you do this with all your brass? Or only uknown brass not fired from your own gun (not being a Glock ofc)

[@davidchampagne464]

Thanks for the video. Fantastic

[@EdmundMar]

But the glock bulge and resizing weakens the case sooner. The glock chamber is not fully supported but the fix is easy...buy an after market barrel. The other joke is the trigger safety built into the trigger. The same accidental force is that operates the trigger is dangerously close to having pulled the internal safety.

[@mattlord9804]

I just got a Dillon 650 with Dillon dies. now I need a redding resizer to use my glocks?

[@Duckyistrippin]

+Matt Lord Just buy a barrel that isn't a piece of crap…. Most people in the know roll size all their brass before dumping it into a dillon or what not. No press full length resizes, because part of the case is retained in the shell plate. Thats why they are shoving the brass through a glorified bullet sizer in this video.

[@mattlord9804]

+Duckyistrippin yes I agree get a better barrel. I am new to reloading so constantly learning. I don't know what rolling the brass means. I would guess it means roll it around on a flat surface to see if it is out of round?

[@mattlord9804]

For 45 acp reloading I am going with the redding comp dies with the micrometer dial on the top. I heard one of the two models works the brass less thus getting more reloads from your brass in theory. Have not heard much feed back.