I Took Apart My DeLorean Engine & Found The "Valley Of Death!" What Would You Do Here?

[@LegitStreetCars]

I finished the DeLorean! Check this out! kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqSkqYmqbpmmmJo

[@somphothbsiratsamy3748]

Okay, I don’t care how many movies it’s been in, that is a horribly designed engine

[@somphothbsiratsamy3748]

Trash the motor and put a cheap is250 motor in it

[@somphothbsiratsamy3748]

😂😂😂😂😂😂 the radiator pipes run below the whole car. 😂😂😂😂😂😂 fukn fanatics

[@jonmitchell9019]

@@somphothbsiratsamy3748 Look at me! Look at me! I'm the waterboy! Grrrrrr!

[@jonmitchell9019]

I watch a guy years take the valley and had a pro fill that up with new weld and it lasted forever he still has that car. You should of least super pressure cleaned the area and painted it with high temp to protect it from farther on.

[@SudosFTW]

A suggestion: while expensive, it might be pertinent to actually go and clean up ALL the corrosion in the valley and then coat it in a layer of Alodine like what would be done in aviation on aluminum, just as a peace of mind thing. You can't gain back the aluminum, but you can at least protect the aluminum you do have from corroding. Generally it's used for creating a surface for paint to stick to in airplanes but in your case, I'm wondering if a few coats of that won't hurt, and then some high temp engine paint in something a bit brighter so you can see any oil leakage in the future.

[@paulnielsen8528]

I bet you just watched Rebuild Rescue 45 minutes ago.

[@hamood1234fool]

I was thinking of filling it with carbon fiber and resin

[@DillysADV]

I was thinking even cheaper.. fill the valley bottom with JB Weld. It would bond to reinforce the material that is still there. Either way,if it is going to fail and there ain't anything you can do about it, run it until it gives...

[@kenstrain4366]

@@DillysADV That was my thoughts too.

[@greggdalton4110]

Could you coat the top of the valley of life (thinking positive) with something like JB weld? And yes you are right I am not a car guy.I change oil and do brakes that is all. And I enjoy your all your videos. Good luck!

[@jmaxim80]

The engine valley is fine brother, i think the biggest thing is keeping all that junk out of that valley. Like any other kind of metal, wet dirt is really great at deteriorating it. I'd probably spray it with some fluid film at the very least to try and protect the aluminum for as long as possible. Anyway shes gonna be one nice set of wheels to enjoy yourself in.

[@williamrogge6268]

Coolant on your hair? Does the DeLorean know you might become a hot-head?

[@ScottAPetty]

You should look into doing dry ice blasting for the entire underneath!! It’s way cleaner and does a great job.

[@larrysorenson4789]

The Ice guys charge a ton for their process. Imagine if some guy had a mobile unit so that the zillion in- progress projects could get a bit cleaner during the project.

[@victorthecarguy3126]

Emissions stuff from the 70s and 80s always fun and different. Why not paint the valley with JB weld. Never have a problem with corrosion when it's epoxy coated.

[@1slow370]

Clean it and paint it with an ablative zinc paint. If it breaks get it glass beaded and welded. You could probably have it reamed and sleeved (coat a tight fighting tube with epoxy and press it into the passage) and drill out the connecting oil passages

[@matthewcalifana488]

I was thinking J B weld , Worked 4 me on transmission line .

[@dariocastro9079]

something like is what i was imagine before seeing it ... i think it can work if the damage is not terrible

[@billpar]

I was thinking something similar

[@1slow370]

@@matthewcalifana488 I would typically go for araldite 2014 but same concept

[@skylinefever]

@@matthewcalifana488 I heard Belzona is a good replacement for JB Weld.

[@jw4620]

I'm 77. I've said every word you said many times over. But you still kept it civil. Great channel and keep up the good work. When I started wrenching, all you had to be able to do was set points and valves, and you were golden.

[@andrewp4258]

I agree with Mike. That level of corrosion is quite normal. I’ve seen plenty worse. My DeLorean engine was similar to that and by now most are likely like that. Doing a great job!

[@chicagomodzz]

Mix up about a half gallon of JB weld and give the whole valley a good coating to protect it.

[@backyardgarage]

Exactly what I'd be doing.

[@theelectricmonk3909]

I thought the same too - I'm not sure if JB Weld could handle the thermal cycling though, it'll be pretty hot in there. I wonder if thoroughly cleaning it with brake cleaner, then painting it with a heavy coat of high temperature BBQ/header paint might at least stop any future degradation.

[@lancenutter1067]

Yes, my thoughts are similar, to at least stop the corrosion.

[@saulns7159]

Had the same thought lol

[@jimkalfakis9893]

I agree 100%! You cast a whole new block.

[@JS_Precision]

Very interesting video, but I was scared some rust and crap might get into the intake ports. Best to cover those up when cleaning next to them.

[@christaylor93]

Personally, on the valley issue, I would have definitely tried to clean it better to get the dirt off, not necessarily blend out any damage, just get as much of the dirt off as possible, then applied alodine and a primer, then corban 35.

[@bartolomeothesatyr]

^^^ This.

[@timmoles9259]

After a much better mechanical cleaning follow-up with Alumprep before alodine.

[@mikeygandalf3335]

I think this and it may sound kinda junky but put some jb weld on it, at least that will keep any more dirt off the oil passage

[@EdwardM104]

I'd be careful with any coatings on the block. I spent probably 15 hours cleaning the block on a DeLorean and sealed it according to a forum post and the first time I had to remove the intake again, there was unavoidable fuel spills into the valley and all of the coating came right off. I did have a much much worse block than this one and anticipate having to replace it at some point so I used an aluminum epoxy on the worst looking bits and that is probably better than any coating. About hard as the other aluminum and really well bonded. Pointless? Maybe, but it was my friend's car and he wanted to experiment instead of proactively replacing the block.

[@bertram-raven]

Aluminium "Cancer" is worse than rust. It snakes its way into the ali and makes it friable.

[@petetofani4896]

Dry ice blaster would work great to clean things back to new under the car and in the engine compartment.

[@HastyRhombus760]

I would consider using block fill to just fill in the valley up to just over the top of the oil passage. Block fill is designed to withstand a lot more pressure than this engine will ever see and would seal off the block from any outside material. Once cured the block fill would restore and increase any strength loss the engine block might have experienced. Just a thought.

[@Mikefngarage]

LS conversion. would get things sorted. I would not keep that engine in there. make it run good then.

[@aominelaw981]

I was thinking something similar. Like clean the rusty parts and then cover it with new aluminium, let it cure. But your idea is probably more future proof.

[@timtimtimmay4654]

Dry ice blast, Cerakote, and as an additional safety measure add an easy to access zinc electrode from a boating supply store for sacrificial anode to absorb ions that you can routinely clean and replace to prevent any further corrosion. That should last well enough to prevent any further degradation.

[@capicolaspicy]

So agree with your plan to go ahead and pressure wash the entire underside. It's the closest you can get to a full restoration without dismantling the entire car! Absolutely loving watching your progress!

[@baliessong7081]

NO! get rid of that pile of shit motor!!!

[@yukoncornelius6078]

Pro tip - forget about that metal pipe in the valley (not the Y pipe, the foot long one leading to the heater core). Just run a long silicone or rubber heater hose out of the valley. Eliminates 2 seams that could leak that are impossible to get to without removing the manifold again.

[@MrSychnant]

Good idea.

[@LegitStreetCars]

What would you guys do? Run it until it blows up, replace the engine or ????

[@cardude8996]

Replace with original motor

[@orange2352]

Blow it up then replace!

[@AlexKingstone]

I would run until it goes bad

[@foxysausage6091]

Go see Mr Wynne for a NOS replacement / rebuild.

[@alvaroalfaro8979]

LS swap with a Porsche transmission. Or EV and do all lighting with Led and panels with screens, so you came back to the future it

[@stevealan2289]

Clean the valley, use JB weld or similar epoxy to fill concerning areas. Lastly, apply a good engine paint to the valley to inhibit future corrosion.

[@EdwardM104]

Idk if you've already ordered them, but I highly suggest replacing the fuel injector lines. Also, if the engine goes, a common swap is the Eagle 3.0L PRV engine. Decent bit more power and easier to work on. Do the manual as well at the same time.

[@TheGhungFu]

You can re-anneal those copper washers. Just heat them until they just start to glow. Let them cool and clean with fine sand paper. Good to go. Annealing all copper seals was standard procedure on submarines.

[@adrianmejia1256]

You should walnut blast the valley to clean up as much of the corrosion as possible, then put some anti-corrosion coating (Alodine?) and then fill the valley up to the webbing with JB Weld epoxy.

[@73Bugman]

I totally agree with your thoughts. Seems to be a no brainier. Why did the experts not suggest this?

[@shanewilson5248]

i concur, but suggest you look at products from Chesterton they offer epoxy metal putty which has alluminum particles that aid expansion contraction eqaulity ,which is what you required- eqaul exspanion is critical to maintain seal

[@jwalster9412]

Hire a. Welder and reinforced the valley.

[@adrianmejia1256]

You could very well burn a hole through that corrosion, also having no idea how thick it is. Probably not a good idea at this point…

[@YungEagle3k]

i thought the same thing

[@perkins1439]

I would guess the springs on the butterflies in the throttle body or so if it backfires it won't blow the intake off

[@hgsnotes]

For the AC you don't need to change to 134, just get the duracool or 12a refrigerant with an adapter for the fill connection. Don't have to change anything in the system. Works better than 134. My 71 buick riviera still had pressure in the original system so I was able to recharge and it works great.

[@racerboy2212]

Every episode ends, almost as a cliffhanger! I so am looking forward to the next one! Great series, Alex!

[@gavinmeyer8937]

Hijacking this comment to say you should swap in a supercharged 3800. bulletproof v6 thats not nearly as gutless

[@Kxider]

Seeing you upload another video of your Delorean really brighten my day! Anyway where is the Japanese guy in your workshop? Sorry I’m really bad with names I know..

[@emiller7040]

He left months ago.

[@Kxider]

Really? Did he mention it in the video?@@emiller7040

[@emiller7040]

@@Kxider Alex pinned a post about it on one of the Cadillac videos.

[@viatronmac]

Looks like a prime candidate for treating with Devcon, give them a call I’ll guarantee they have a coating that will seal all that up and will also put some structural strength back into it.

[@markkoranjr6426]

Really shocked that you didn’t cover the intake ports before more tear down 😉

[@myrmeko]

I personally think you should clean the valley as best as you can, then coat it in Alodine. I'd go as far as reinforcing all of the deeper pockets with aluminium weld, coat the whole thing in Alodine, then fill up the valley with JB-Weld to also make it slanted towards the front, so it could drip out of the valley, if there would be any more leaks.

[@SaraMorgan-ym6ue]

that smoke is just the engine puking out the last of the crap that built up in the engine over those 30 years of sitting

[@myrmeko]

@@SaraMorgan-ym6ue I didn't say anything about smoke tho.

[@ravennexusmh]

wonder how easy it would be to get a B280E from europe in there. keep it PRV for a nice bump to 170hp, and maybe some renautl 25 turbo manifolds from france and turbo that

[@danielwillliams9669]

Man, this is awesome. I am so glad you are doing it right. It is a complete thrill when I hear - "Yup, that's getting replaced and yup that too and yeah we need to clean this all up"! Then I hear " I am going blast this bottom and powder coat this and replace this over hear"! This the best restoration video ever! Thx for sharing! One other note - wise to go ahead and order the engine - it's not if the engine will fail - it's going to fail!

[@smartsoap9614]

Dude you are a legend. Love this channel love your work. You can even feel the emotion through the screen. Incredible, watch every Saturday for the past year pissed I didn’t find ya sooner!

[@aDaWaN]

I think that block can live for a long time. I would attack the corrosion on top and seal it with some anodizing coat or epoxy. Once sealed by epoxy it should not further detoriate; so not leaks today will mean no leaks for a long time. As usual you guys are doing a great job, thanks for the video!

[@Mr.AF94]

Hey Alex, just a suggestion. Why you don’t use a dry ice machine and clean the underneath properly, no mess.? Pressure washer will do it yes but the results will not be the same plus the entire process and transformation is wonderful. 💪🏻👍🏻

[@benjaminmclaughlin4746]

May be worthwhile having a look into dry ice media blasting to clean it up properly, as for the block. I'd honestly have a go at either tig welding more material on top or brazing will be a good alternative to scrapping the block.

[@davidt3563]

The only bad thing about these videos is they end! Seriously I could watch you work on this car all damn day. 3 hour videos plz!

[@barryhomes1]

Regarding the valley of death. I would coat it with something. Perhaps epoxy. I think it would fill in the rough areas, seal and protect it from future corrosion. I've used it for restoring old motorcycle-tanks. Also I notice someone suggested Alodine. I'm not familiar with it, but I would look into it as well. Fun videos. Thx. Barry :-)

[@jamesexploringonline872]

I can't believe nobody has tried to warn you about blocking of the intakes but more don't us a wire brush on the intake or around the openings, you pulled the paper out with the wire brush and continued using it with the intake not being covered, I would now vacuum them carefully and prey no wire got into any of them

[@notreallyhere1136]

It’s crazy how glued to this series I am. I have no interest in deloreans but I love cars and the whole process you are going through

[@harriettanthony7352]

This writer agrees with your View.

[@charliegivilancz6412]

I've used POR15 Engine Enamel on snowmobile engines to keep them from deteriorating. 10 years with no issues. Good up to 350F. Lots of salty roads in IL where I would ride my snowmobiles. Cheap at $32.00 and would cover an entire small engine.

[@CharlesDeMar]

What a great project. As always your optimism, determination and knowledge make these huge projects possible. It’s encouragement to everyone watching.

[@ingnadal]

The sensor that you find with the vaccum lines to the coolant pipe is for cold start high idle. They are connected to a diaphram valve.

[@monoskier2112]

This has to be the greatest Delorean Restoration series on KZbin ever!!!!!!!!! You are doing a fantastic job on this car. I really can see this Delorean worth six figures easy when your completed. 😎🇨🇦

[@TheNightstalker80]

In the interest of preserving such an iconic car, I would disassemble the entire engine and everything that goes with it. I would clean the block, perhaps by dry ice blasting, and then look for a suitable coating such as Alodin (which is not really a coating but more of an etchant) as someone has already mentioned. This car deserves it!

[@TimMcCreary-g5r]

Why don’t you coat the valley with some type of sealant and maybe fill with an epoxy or silicone to prevent further deterioration. We use a product called Alodine that attaches to aluminum and acts like an anodized coating. Good luck, great content!!!! Tim

[@billvanderpol]

Wonder if it would work to just pour the whole valley full of some super strong epoxy so that it will seal? There is also corrosion inhibitors in the airplane world that might keep what is there and make sure it doesn’t get worse. Alodine might be a good option.

[@KurisuDE]

The outtakes at the end are a great adddition to the videos!

[@lkchild]

Ask a radiator rebuild company about liquid metal. I had similar corrosion on a 1940s tank radiator - they were able to build up the metal and replace some of the lost material. It would probably work for the valley there as well.

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

I can’t believe you didn’t protect those open ports when you were digging and flipping dirt in the valley.

[@ahalstead40]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who winced seeing that

[@aydaenlynch2088]

Oof I know. I was wincing while the cut off wheel sparks shot up around the open manifold ports. 😬

[@ianwheeler683]

First thing l thought, bit amateur hour to be honest.

[@youtubevoyeur4104]

Came here for these comments, I was horrified watching the grinder sparks going everywhere with the ports open and the vacuum poking around!

[@jamesemcclure]

If Alex is thinking of replacing the engine then it doesn't matter

[@BobBasshead]

I've used this method with outstanding results. Cleaning that valley I'd use a Dremel Tool with the extension shaft and a cup style wire brush, it's easy to control the pressure without gouging any more holes, gotta use a little finesse while doing this, and all the while using your shop vacuum sucking up any accumulated debris. Then follow up sealing up the valley with the many suggested materials from your viewers. BUT no more poking around in there with screwdrivers and other sharp metal tools!

[@LegitStreetCars]

Here are all the other DeLorean videos in one place! Abandoned Delorean Rescue!: kzbin.info/aero/PLCPhBTbpYs4IyNoPoSMYDRQZFmq5T6Jb2

[@taurota1554]

Awesome

[@m4rvinmartian]

When trying to show height in video or photo, use a light source not concurrent with the lens, ie, at an angle to the camera. If using video, move the light to accentuate the valleys.

[@maxw5156]

You should look into doing “cold spray aluminum” for that engine block, I think this is a good application.

[@johnanderson8166]

Owned a 1976 Volkswagen Scirocco for 18 years, having tracked down and modified everything on the car including the CIS or Constant Injection System had a huge experience with learning everything I could about CIS, was used on alot of VW's Porsche and Audi from the early 70s through the 1980's when it works correctly, it can deliver breath taking performance and can support Turbo charging as well.

[@johnanderson8166]

I would clean the thing as thoroughly as possible and use JB weld epoxy, I would apply a coat to all the pitting then use a high temp epoxy paint to apply a protective coating to everything except were there are threads.

[@antonczerwinske5910]

If you replace the engine, please dont put in another delorean engine. Its a car ahead of its time, it deserves an engine from current time

[@silverghini2629]

Go EV!

[@mr.wallbangr9896]

kind of new here but i respect the amount of work that goes in to your videos.. thank you sir!

[@atrociousliar3314]

I'm so pleased there are people on this planet who like doing this stuff. It looks like he'll on earth to me. By 5 minutes in I would have stripped something and lost something else. I would then not have the correct tool for something and then forget what went where. God bless you.

[@jimcabezola3051]

Really excited for more restoration footage! Continued success to you!

[@ducko2424]

I'm loving these DeLorean restoration videos. Great Job Alex! 👍

[@Sami-lx7mf]

The viewing of REAL work in a step by step jurney of discovery is pritty special. Thanks.

[@rast4man]

I totally believe you're going to have this done well before Halloween. You're WAY too in love with this project and it's awesome to watch! Can't wait to see this on whatever spooky display you come up with!

[@DannysGarage]

The vacuum lines going to the coolant manifold is part of a switch that opens/closes a vacuum line based on the engine temperature. They were commonly used for emissions stuff on the early Motronic cars.

[@ifluro]

This one may have limited vacuum advance on the distributor until the car warmed up, hence the D marking.

[@leeweinstein5372]

You should clean the aluminum in the valley really well and fill it with a good quality epoxy. Consider chemical cleaning and epoxy primer first, and something like 3M DP-420. It will outlast the engine. I've used it to repair engine blocks in the past and worked great.

[@genieb]

Have you considered to fill the Valley of Death with something like Devcon or similar ?? That would add years to the life I'm sure ;). Other option could be flame sprayed or arc sprayed aluminium.

[@peterbrown7913]

💯, he doesn’t even consider any potential measures to extend the life of the block, I thought of a couple of epoxy type coatings, Devon, JB weld, AW Chesterton also may have some suitable products.

[@t0n4us]

Might want to use a dry ice blaster to clean the valley. Also the rest of the engine, while you're at it. Would look close to new with minimal erosion. 😉

[@Robsav-yx6vi]

Yes . Excellent advice

[@DanielvanKATWIJK]

They used to have carbs, 1 quadruple for the 4 front cylinders and 1 double for the 2 back cylinders. The engine is the one from the Alpine A 310 V6, One of the uses of the PRV (Peugeot - Renault - Volvo V6). Those carbs were a pain in the but to tune.

[@urgolf1974]

I think, you need to search for a company that does "laser deposition welding". After proper research, and practicing on a ruined delorean part, they could laser weld layers on your "valley of death" out of metal powder or metal wire. It might be very well possible, but probably the most expensive approach, and an adventure for itself, i guess.

[@srboromir452]

I was thinking of those old machines that were basically a paint gun filled with metal powder hooked to a blow torch, this is an even better idea, less "over spray"

[@chrispompano]

Spray Welding......!

[@petebeatminister]

Its astonishing to see how they improvised when they build the car. The rubber mats held with zip ties - hilarious.

[@mattus1gig]

The thing is, it lasted. I bet anything made today won’t be around after 40 years.

[@petebeatminister]

@@mattus1gig Well, in general, cars from the 80s and earlier were pretty terrible compared to those today. The DeLorian is a exception because it is partly made of stainless steel - and was parked in a shed for over 30 years.

[@StarwaterCWS]

I personally think you should ignore all these comments and keep doing a stellar job. Too many armchair mechanics that think restoration of the Dodge Dart they completed in 1982 made them experts on DeLoreans.

[@tempestcrow]

I used to repair/rebuild air valves for semi trucks as a business. All of my customers preferred my valves over factory, not only for price but they lasted longer. Because we painted them with a good epoxy paint. These things hung out in all of the elements and a good coat of paint for protection was key. Clean up the block real good, shoot it with a good coat of paint and make sure you run it long enough to dry itself after getting wet. You should be good honestly.

[@Stricklinator]

Could you clean it really well and use some sort of epoxy to seal and protect that area? Also, an LS swap in these are pretty cool!

[@ryanabitter]

Agreed, kind of like what the Honda guys use to fill around the outside of the cylinder walls

[@Battlefresh]

I would use Devcon F aluminum epoxy. It pours thick and will seal and protect that aluminum underneath and once it sets, it's basically solid aluminum.

[@Ratkill9000]

LS will wreck that transaxle.

[@johncowie3092]

Ls would defeat the point no

[@markmitchell457]

GOOD, REAL GOOD! I really enjoy this series. Thanks for great insite into DMC.

[@richardphelan8414]

I'm not a DeLorean fan, but I am a fan of your workmanship and how your so detailed oriented that's why I watch. My love is the 87 GN ,I'm a first owner of one .

[@tinman7551]

Wouldn’t it potentially be better to dry ice blast the underside of the car ? Looking better every time I see it. ❤

[@LegitStreetCars]

That would be real cool. Stay tuned!

[@germanmechanic8591]

Sounds amazing. My nerdy kind of treatment/show of love.🤓

[@irineovelasquez1964]

For the a/c system . It uses r12, if you convert to 134a, your gonna have to install an extra fan to keep it cooler with a temp activated switch. Because ure going from basicly mineral oil to gas. It has a diffrent way to exchange heat. For the engin top end, i would just leave it, engines that old look that way. But is always a good practice to have a extra engine aroung if there is a mishap in the future. Just rebuild the new new doner engine and wrap it with plastic and set it aside.

[@melwebb8485]

Has anyone missed this but 1M subscribers, WELL DONE Alex.

[@LegitStreetCars]

Thanks!!

[@Razor6On3]

​@@LegitStreetCarsgo to eastwood and pick up some glyptal red. Its a coating you brush on and it will seal the aluminum and add some stability to it, not to mention it will make it a burnt red color and shiny smooth. They use it to coat inside heads to make the oil move without any restrictions.

[@todvanced7842]

Pour a sheet of hot lead on it like they do for chimneys. It would be an insulator and add thickness and fill in the pores. Just a thought. Otherwise. Have a welder that specializes in aluminum look at it and get his opinion. He might have options that others aren't aware of.

[@milesmerwin2862]

What about engine block filler? I remember car craft used to use it inside water jackets to strengthen the block. (not sure if that stuff is OK with aluminum) Or just add some sort of industrial epoxy to that valley… Maybe the multiple large size jb weld, pc7 or double double bubble.

[@jopy8668]

LS swap time

[@detonationpyrotechnics4156]

I have weighed the pros and cons of your statement and I have found no cons sir. You win

[@benjaminserino6611]

That’s what I’m saying

[@steenlassen5718]

Get a Peugeot 24 valve V6. Should fit right in.

[@elieboudreaux7085]

Can’t wait till you’re finished with the Delorean. This is a great project keep up the great videos.

[@RealRickCox]

I feel like your DeLorean is an ACTUAL time machine.... because you took us back in time and this car should be good for many years into the future.

[@ndg49]

One step at a time. Not having worked on a DeLorean or the PRV V6, you seem to be doing one helluva job on it. Restorations are always full of surprises, with the necessity to have deep pockets. I think your idea of getting a "new" motor makes sense. Good Luck, and I'm enjoying this series (as I do with each one).

[@pclayton5063]

The aluminum valley problem is caused by corrosion from the outside on the top surface. I think some sort of coating, maybe an epoxy sealer for aluminum, would give some added protection from outside elements. Maybe JB Weld has something that might work. I would definitely clean it up more and use some kind of coating.

[@christopherbusch1933]

I've used JBWeld on motorcycle engines and it still holds 25 years later.

[@christian6381]

1000hp DeLorean?😂

[@colinscutt5104]

That three pipe vacuum valve on the coolant hose is a wax operated two way vacuum switch , probably part of the warm up regulator system on what looks like K jetronic injection

[@Kacjar]

You could lay down something like jbweld or high temp paint acrose the vally and add your own drain hose to reduce further contact and pooling on the aluminum block

[@59z2]

I don't know what GM used on some automatic transmission cases in the late '70s, but it looked like a grey epoxy, about 1/4 inch thick, it was used to treat a leaky case, and I came that way from the factory. That hard epoxy would fill any pores in the aluminum and it was a self-leveling type.

[@Dm-pk5oz]

Clean it and use Alvin's lab metal. Use lab metal thinner to reduce it and brush it on. Stuff is amazing. Used it to repair worn through cast iron industrial gear box. Held up to oil pressure for at least 15 years and going.

[@brecklandwarrior]

Got to agree with some of the comments on here, clean up the aluminium then over coat the valley area with any of numerous epoxy compounds like JB or Devcon.

[@turkeyboyjh1]

I would also fill the valley with hardblok or jbweld to prevent further corrosion and keep things from cracking

[@TheJonesbouy]

I had an '82 DeLorean. The engine is the same that was in the Volvo 760. If you need parts for the engine, buy them as Volvo parts, not for a DeLorean. I was soaked for $25 for an oil filter when bought for the DeLorean. I paid $5 when I bought the same filter for a Volvo 760.

[@mikel9656]

My thoughts on a "repair" walnut blast the casting, then pour a heat resistant 2 part epoxy in to the casting waffle pattern. may be use an adhesion promoter first. its not gonna necessarily make it stronger, but its gonna prevent any further corrosion.

[@stevesomers7366]

I noticed the previous comment about using a sealer in the valley that's used in aviation; however, my thought is to research high temperature epoxies that you could poor into the valley and let harden. This would not only protect it, but disallow any debris from collecting in the valley in the future. Good luck.

[@essigspeed]

Old school fix is in order. Us old timers fixed cracks in blocks with a product called liquid glass in the day. I am sure they have even better stuff now. Just clean it as best you can (cleaner the better), and pour it in. Seal the corrosion with a barrier and stop it from worsening. You will have a nice layer of protection on top. This fix lasted for many years on an already cracked block. Should last forever on one that isn't leaking yet. It's like POR-15 for your engine!

[@stephenhegarty]

5:01 - looks like a fuel pressure regulator or a pulse dampener, but I think the latter was just on electronic fuel injection motors

[@vanillagarilla965]

I used to work at a shop where we took in deloreans and got them running up in mass , I didn’t enjoy it then and watching you do it I don’t think I would enjoy it now either. I am having fun watching you go through everything I did with these things though.

[@robertlantz2206]

I have use JB Weld to repair a thermostat housing and it works! Maybe you can fill in those wells and craters.

[@kyetivids]

Use Sprayway glass cleaner on the Valley. It will liquify the remaining crusty dried coolant and you can then rinse it out or vacuum it. It will prevent further corrosion.

[@reebokprincess1]

Coolant tubes are similar to my Fiero SEPTA tubes aren't split with the splitter it's just solid to from front to back and the for radiator hoses

[@arnoldmcqueen2944]

I agree to clean the valley real well, maybe put jb weld in the divots and seal it real well.

[@MMMX38]

You should definitely check out dry ice blasting. It makes literally everything look brand new.

[@erik.g.80]

Such a great video. At what point do you just pull the body off the frame and save yourself some frustration? It's not too hard to do. Keep the videos coming! I love this series.