Don’t Modify Your Turbo Diesel Engine Before Watching This Video. One Mod That Can Save Your Engine!

[@LegitStreetCars]

What's the most powerful but highest MPG car/truck you've ever owned? This is going to be mine.

[@chatwithaninja]

A turbo diesel suburban that I modified to run on veggie oil.

[@2006gtobob]

Honestly, I've been very impressed by my 2006 GTO. With the manual it gets nearly 30mpg on the highway, nearly 19 daily driving, though I don't drive it much.

[@jrfish007]

LegitStreetCars sadly, a turbo civic back in the 90’s. Hoping to change that with my cdi

[@letstalkabouttv1784]

🤔Lexus is300 first gen/ and maaaaybe my current CTS 2006 FIRST GEN

[@michaelsieber98]

Volkswagen Golf 1.9TDI. 60MPG

[@RobertBrown-uy6gh]

I’m an industrial diesel mechanic. On our medium speed boosted engines 1000 degrees is pretty normal at around 70 percent constant load. 1100-1200 degrees is around where we want to start throttling back. I think your temps sound perfectly fine so far.

[@MerlinTheMagic12]

Okay i playing around with my ecu for around a year. still didnt use a egt sensor. Changed intake injectors and different turbo@1.6bar runs good so far nearly no black out. In my case i read that maxed egt should not go above 850°C. Its a 99er 1.9TDI. and i read that newer TDI's are limited to 750° and 800° in dpf Regeneration. Where does the big different come from?

[@DiscoFang]

MerlinTheMagic12 Ummmm F vs C.

[@dieselgaint]

@@MerlinTheMagic12 it's so they don't melt the dpf in the newer tdi's.

[@davideroxy99]

@@MerlinTheMagic12 Remember that a 1.9TDI it's a 4 cylinder engine, probably an european one so they're made to get excellent km/l or mpg

[@dieselgaint]

@@em4703 you want the doc as close as possible to heat up quickly.

[@JoeGreeninger]

"A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t " :) Thanks for the CDI series.... I am watching every video!

[@LegitStreetCars]

Thanks Joe!

[@turbo97semax]

I drilled and tapped the bung. Much less work and works well (no leaks so far). For the intake manifold, I bought a European intake manifold part number A6130900737 with no swirl flaps (just $55 shipped!). Just had to make a bracket to hold the motor for the flaps and plug it in so it doesn't throw a CEL. While you have the intake manifold out, I recommend changing the oil cooler gasket at the same time. It will likely leak and takes just an extra 10-15 minutes of work. My oil cooler leaked pretty badly forcing me to change it out and so installed the IM at the same time. Always love to watch your videos .. I have done most of this work to mine already but always fun to watch how others do it! Also for the add-a-fuse there is an orientation to the add-a-fuse. You need to make sure that the hot side from the add-a-fuse always goes to the hot side of the fuse box.

[@notsure7060]

Naise ... cause this video ...hmmmm.... well tell me how it went with your engine

[@garyn4318]

Should have drilled and tapped, cast iron and steel need correct welding rods.. a cracking time ahead i think

[@gsparrow321]

Exactly what I was thinking. Surprised it didn't crack when it cooled. Should have brazed it.

[@garyn4318]

@@gsparrow321 I know through trying to bodge that cast iron cracks, makes a nice sound though 😂

[@EDesigns_FL]

I was also surprised that he didn't tap the manifold. There will be consequences for mig welding on cast iron. "Grinder & paint make him the welder he aint". This is the difference between a professional installation and DIY'er. If he really wanted a welded bung, the manifold should have been removed, preheated and properly brazed, and then allowed to SLOWLY cool. He introduced a lot of stress into that casting and it's likely to crack. Because of the significant temperatures the casting will be exposed to, I doubt that brazing is even a viable option.

[@garyn4318]

@@EDesigns_FL part of learning by making mistakes, we have all been there at some point and learned from it, I suppose it shows his good character by showing his mistakes, personally I have, apart from my own mistake once, used cast iron rods for welding cast iron and never brazed on it

[@MrBillrookard]

Yeah - sadly I'm thinking the same thing. Drill and tap. Cast iron and steel have different thermal expansion rates which will create some stress. Plus with cast iron I would think pulling the manifold and preheating it would have helped. TIme will tell I guess. I'm sure if he hears an insane racket under the hood and his EGT sensor stops reading we'll get a video on it!

[@MBDieselFreak]

Are you absolutely sure that exhaust manifold isn't cast iron.....? if its NOT cast steel, and is infact iron, that weld will completely separate and break in no time. You cant weld steel to cast iron with just normal flex core welding wire.

[@LegitStreetCars]

No not sure at all. If it breaks, I'll do it again with some help, haha

[@MBDieselFreak]

@@LegitStreetCars take it to a welding shop and have them weld it! Should be super cheap.

[@LegitStreetCars]

I think I'm going to learn. I have some folks that could show me a thing or 2

[@ducatipaso1386]

Cheaper to pay a Welder than buying a whole spool of the right wire.

[@sojer6mile]

Learning is priceless. Also a great welder looks like a noob on those HF welder of that brand. They have better ones now.

[@rlscustoms]

Great video Alex and as you can see you’re being schooled by all the welding experts which is a good thing, the whole purpose of what you do is the journey right, make mistakes, learn and keep moving forward, much respect brother 👊🏼

[@LegitStreetCars]

Totally agree. Can't wait to learn and show off some good welds in a future video

[@miralemnermina142]

Install water injection on e320 cdi

[@GavinY]

so much nicer to watch something different vs everyone else just building regular stuff with gas engines

[@c.h.r.i.s2253]

I guarantee everyone that takes a turbo out one of the very first things they do is spin the compressor wheel

[@danielcherry509]

Is it not a legal requirement?

[@alanbrown397]

At the other end of the spectrum - I had a ~40HP PSA TUD5 Pugeot 106 - turboing these was "Not recommended" - they were derived from a petrol engine and CAD designed within an inch of their lives. Anyone who tried to boost them with a turbo usually discovered the crankshaft coming adrift inside the block, complete with its mounting castings.

[@MJPilote]

For your turbo upgrade you need bigger injectors, the stock ones will hold you back on power. They wont flow much past 95mm^3 and if maxing out everything you can just about get around 50-55hp/cylinder from stock injectors. But that means a GOOD tune, to find all the limiters from the software and upping rail pressure.

[@javierorechia618]

I like your videos and i am glad to see you doing this exact thing as i am really into diesel modifications, i just want to learn more with your content, thank you very much

[@scottlaughlin3988]

Hey man, if you want to learn welding I am near Milwaukee and could come down sometime and help with that. Let me know.

[@0thers1d3]

I live up near Green Bay, if you guys meet up, I'm so down!!

[@christinereed2189]

Nicholas escrich says when ever I make a call to discuss 1-(607)-298-6081

[@MrJustinjohnson4]

Love that there’s narration in disassembly tutorials now. Keep up the great work 👍🏼

[@maxiking7708]

Your videos deserve more views

[@malancaluciano1253]

I have my 2.0 tdi at 260hp running 890 degrees Celsius for about 4 years now with no issue, so i think your cdi could take at least 800-850 Celsius. By the way any diesel with dpf filter has high egts, they have limiters in the ecu that cuts off power when reached. And usually that temp is 800 to 900 Celsius

[@WelcomeToTheMadness]

Some preventative engine blowing up items. Always a plus. Welding is hard, I’m practicing also. 30MPG(Highway) that’s the highest and it was a 320E

[@lazarsrb97]

Really helpful tips for CDI owners 😁👍 Thanks and keep it up.

[@callumduncan6728]

alex welding dissimilar metals is really hard , welding cast is really hard fortunately their is an easy solution if you look to the left of where you drilled you will see a round bump on the manifold this is where the molten iron is poured into the casting mould it is ALWAYS thicker there to ease the flow of metal into the casting , if you drill and tap at that point their will be plenty of meat to thread into been doing this for many years on many different manifolds it is part of the casting process and is always there so at worst you might have to take off the manifold to get at the bump . In your case the bump is right there so it could be done very easily .Work smart not hard my friend good luck

[@brettwhitla4425]

You need cast iron specific rods to weld cast properly and you really shouldn't weld 2 different metals together as they have different thermal expansion properties and will break away. You run a very high risk of the adapter break off then you'll have 1000°F jet of gas blowing out under your hood. Now that you already have a hole, I agree with other comments on here that you should tap a thread into the manifold and use a threaded adapter instead. No need to pull it all apart again. Just dip the thread tap in grease, tap in a bit of thread, wipe off grease with shavings in it and keep repeating until you're done. That will catch all the shavings. I've done a few turbo conversions to older N/A diesels and installed the EGT sensor to the down pipe and never had an issue with any of them. I do make sure i keep temps around or below 850°F (450°C) tho.

[@arnoldmosk494]

Sorry I wanted to say delete the EGR valve and put in a new manyfold like I did. to my 270 CDI , but your already working on it!!! Thumbs up good job!!

[@DaveRST]

Hey, i have a stage 1 tuned OM646.811, stock turbo, stock everything, just remap. If you want i can give you some EGT readings. Don’t really worry about your 900f at half trothle. In stock form thats what you get ;)

[@maxehv]

Metal was still not clean enough Alex.

[@Mortalomena]

Also ground was clamped on rust and not clean metal.

[@Tomazack]

@@Mortalomena Can't fault him for that, he rectified the issue and did say so in the video.

[@andrewwilson8317]

Another option that is so much easier is to simply fit the EGT probe in aa adaptor that fits between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. It is quite low profile and replaces the gasket and securely mounts the thermocouple with no modification to the car and can be removed if required. Isolating vehicle electrics before welding on the car will reduce the risk of wrecking expensive electronics.

[@av8rbri473]

Did I just hear you say: ".....fixin' to make a lot more power".....? come on down to TX, plenty of room here 👊🏻

[@johnb4183]

Alex next time you might try drilling and tapping (threading). Cast iron needs to be preheated etc. or it WILL crack.

[@basithph8958]

This diesel is just awesome

[@roberthale8407]

Nomenclature FYI, if the probe is upstream of the turbine, it is called a Turbine Inlet Temperature, or T.I.T., after the turbine is it exhaust gas temperature, or EGT.

[@0thers1d3]

I love how honest you are. Lol I love your channel.

[@martygt3357]

I have a modded F450 turbo-diesel. It runs all the time at 1000-1100 degrees. Set your gauge to beep at 1250. Aluminum melts at 13?? degrees or more depending on the alloy. I have hit 1500 on my gauge, but I lifted and did no damage. I do not have any beep. You have to watch the gauge. The hot exhaust has to heat the piston to destroy it. It is not instant. Think of a a pan on the stove. It takes a few seconds.

[@michaelroloff2804]

I love it! Saturday evening, chilling with a tea and look at your newest clips!one more time: Thank you for your work and engagement! Sometimes somebody should make the first step... by now it look like that you are the one who should do it (EGT)! And, well cast is not a material that make it very easy to learn welding. So you should be genorous with your welding! It fits an it‘s gas-tight so everthing is fine! Well done! I‘m sorry that i could not help you with your question about the EGT- But, what i suppose to say because i looked at it, is your crank-case ventilation on top of the engine. The module with oil-cover... it seems to me, that a lot of oildust coming out. Thats indicates that probably the ccv is nearly blocked or at least full with oil. It‘s needless to say what trouble that will bring... But i know, all kind of Diesel-engines have it... sooner or later. An MB make here no exceptions. It would be a pity about your new turbo!

[@ranat5526]

A vacuum cleaner and magnet on a extention will collect all the metal shavings so no need to remove the turbo. Plugged a m12 bolt to do oven cleaner access point for turbo and dpf.

[@rolf9138]

++ on heating the manifold before wielding. Also, bung the hole and turn the engine over before you mount the turbo to blow any detritus out.

[@CheezyDee]

Best thing to do with those Horror Freight welders is practice on some scrap steel before doing actual work. I've found them adequate for outside welding jobs 1/8" steel and thicker, but thin sheetmetal requires too low a feed speed than the cheap drive motor in those things can handle. I'm pretty sure that weld on bung is made for Stainless Steel headers, not cast iron. Welding cast iron is not something reliably done by mere mortals, and even pros with 20-30 years in consider it hit or miss if the prep AND post work isn't done properly, like pre-heat, peening after welding, and gradual cooling. When the bung falls off after a couple weeks, find one that taps into the hole.

[@Apolyan]

Your supposed to put the EGT gage sender at the farthest cylinder from the water pump to get the best reading. It's usually the cylinder that takes a dump if EGTs are too high. This is a method the Cummins guys are running.

[@DBSSTEELER]

I’m surprised by two things here Alex. First that Mercedes doesn’t have an EGT already. Second I figured you would mark and drill the spot you wanted to place the bung, then have it welded and ceramic thermal coated.

[@freezee7547]

Put a little wet clay mold over the things you want to weld in place and not loosing while you’re welding like this tight place and small welding for cheap and professional. That’s the point in welding with purified water and clay mold like cheap with good temperature control experience and good welding outcome. Literally, welding needs some experiences for good results.

[@GdaySport]

Welding cast iron is difficult. If the bung is stainless, it's even worse. Most people drill and tap npt fittings. No welding required, and it's quick easy quality seal.

[@sg34qw]

the feed roller was slipping on the wire causing it not to feed. You can hear it in the video. if you open the side panel there will be a knob to tension the roller to the wire. put a couple of turns on it to snug it up and it will rid the feeding issue

[@pvcarmon1]

You are not supposed to weld cast iron like that. Most EGT probes are 1/8 NPT. It is much easier and cleaner to just tap 1/8 pipe thread into manifold. I perfer a crimp style EGT fitting V/S the set screw type.

[@kingrpriddick]

Most common cause of inconsistent wire feed on a mig machine is a fouled or kinked whip liner. Think about regular replacements especially on a machine that sits around alot, or gets pushed into corners or whatever else might kink the liner.

[@samxxxii]

950F is not terribly hot for a Diesel engine. Having worked in a professional Diesel Lab for a well known Diesel engine manufacturer I can tell you that if you don’t have to deal with a DPF or any other type of aftertreatment device your true limitations are two: how much heat can your turbo handle without melting or structurally being compromised and cylinder pressure. I would suggest you to find out what are the turbo temp limits stated by the manufacturer (I believe in your case is Garret) then play it safe and stay away from that temperature around 20 to 30 % then gradually bump temp as you feel confortable. On modern Diesel engines subject to latest emissions control highest temps you’ll see are around 700C to 800C. Good luck and keep going with good content.

[@-smp-scientificmethodpersp838]

"Fixing to make allot more power" lol I lived in the Midwest, so I know that slang. Lol

[@razaquu]

The problem with the weld was cast iron, there are mixed metal welding rods and wires. Here i would go with stick welds or avoid welding at all... Other than that, i liked the information, I will need it this coming summer with my w211 :)

[@heinzletzte.6385]

The egt depends pretty much on your engine load. Modern automatics might give the engine more load on a longer gear and try to always run high load even at low throttle because the engine will get a better fuel economy.

[@ph77ab]

Can't wait till next upload , as always great work!

[@cihans4923]

1000 Fahrenheit is like part throttle. You can run up to 1600-1700 Fahrenheit full throttle. Just make sure that you leave temp limiters in, so the car pulls fueling when you hit the limiter.

[@keremkilic2159]

My 1991 honda crx, only 72 hp. But that thing was getting well over 50 miles a gallon on the highway. Only eight gallon tank if I recall correctly

[@DMargarine]

EGTs seem normal. On my trucks (7.3 , 6.0, chev 6.5, and ford 6.4) idle is somewhere in the 200-400. Street driving in the 650-900 range (depending on load) and on WOT pulls I’ve been told that 1200-1300 is the beginning of the “sketchy” area because the melting point of the cast aluminum pistons is somewhere around 1250F. But to my knowledge you can get higher in bursts for very short periods (heavy accel, racing, etc) for example my 7.3, and 6.0 wouldn’t get above 1200 no matter what because they aren’t very aggressively fueled, but my single turbo 6.4 could very easily peg 1800F if I wasn’t watching it on hard pulls (it takes lots of heat to get the turbo moving, until the boost can cool you down a bit) the 6.5 ... lol well let’s just say 1000F was just about max effort for that thing. Anyway ~900 is perfectly normal for normal to mild street driving especially if there’s a decent load, it’s probably safer just to say 1200 is the absolute ceiling, but if you go over it’s not the end of the world. But of coarse these are truck engines I’m talking about that are definitely made to see VERY different duties then that CDI would see. And the 6.4L in question is made to withstand very high temperatures due to the regen/dpf mechanisms (1200+ at idle 😵) coupled with the fact melted pistons/ stress cracks from heat aren’t uncommon at all.. so take it with a grain of salt, and keep an eye on temps

[@sirnik84]

My VDO EGT probe came with a screw in bung. No welding needed and its never leaked. And VDO to match the factory gauges.

[@JeffLMisc]

With heavy trucks, they usually have the pyrometer (EGT Gauge) after the turbo, and it is considered to be 1/3 of the internal temperature temps. Had a few heavy diesels that run around 9-1200 F when pulling hard. Then again, everything is a lot bigger too. 4" inlet piping with a 5" Exhaust :) Nice little mod, I like the little bracket to install the gauge into your vent.

[@mikemakuh5319]

I would of used hi nickel arc rod to do the job. I once cut down a 30td manifold to fit a 240 and the weld on that German cast worked beautifully!

[@luisadultman9632]

You have to heat up cast iron with a torch before you Weld it. You're not getting any penetration and your weld is probably gonna crack.

[@HalfNekoJames]

hey i know its not a mercedes but using the edge juice with attitude on my cummins 24valve using the lvl5 option with smoke settings to high, at WOT i hit temps of 1750F EGT's. I am pushing pretty close to 1000ft lbs though untested. so it may not be to far to say that you may see temps around 1400, the best thing we can do is just free up the exhaust and allow more air to flow in.

[@dangerrous]

Ah, welding cast iron with a mig welder, the high carbon deposits in the cast changes the grain structure and creates fracture lines in and around the weld, you need to use nickel rods and arc weld. Or go old school and braze in that bung. alternatively as many have suggested cut a thread into the manifold.

[@Canuckrz]

Besides the obvious that welding to the cast iron manifold was a terrible idea, the reason you were fighting the mig welder so much was because the feed roller was not tight enough or was perhaps the wrong size for the wire you were using. Its not to do with the wire speed, the issue was with the the wire slipping on the feeder roller. Also I don't see a tank of shield gas? Were you using flux core? Also it would have been much easier to do if you had taken the manifold out of the car, for one its safer as you're not going to arc out on anything sensitive, secondly you always gotta practice the ABC's of welding when possible. Always Be Comfortable, if you're in an awkward spot you're not going to be able to lay down nice even welds and get good fusion.

[@typedrew]

The vandelay shirt deserves its own set of likes.

[@alanbrown397]

Light aircraft videos on "lean of peak" engine operation help explain this as well. Diesels are _always_ "lean of peak" and you need to keep them that way. Ideally you should be monitoring EGT _and_ head temperatures. You can get aviation systems which will do that for you - but they do cost more.

[@jarlnieminen4307]

Lean can run cooler and obviously more efficient. With the right ignition timing and intake temperatures this is a great advantage in an aircraft.

[@jarlnieminen4307]

It's cool how diesel and aviation tuning have similarities hey?

[@CrAzYDr1veR]

you should have removed the manifold, screw bong is better than weld in bong, tig better than pig welding of course and i wish i had a 6cyl merc all i can say is that my 1.9tdi does more then 1832F 1000c in the 1/4 mile

[@INCC74656I]

you dont need to pull a turbo to drill the manifold. let the engine idle and it blows all that metal out the exhaust. when welding iron you should use a tortch to preheat, the rapid expansion and contraction can leave stress cracks in the welds. you also dont need to weld like you did here for your EGT probe. if you get a tap for your thread pitch, drill a hole in the manifold for that tap. then use tape your tap a 1/8 or even 16th of an inch back from bottom on the wall thickness. tap the hole so you stop at the tape (not threading the entire hole to final ID) you can now thread your probe in and the threads will seat at the bottom of your hole and stay secure. ive installed dozens of EGT probes in this manor

[@Foxtrot2312]

Awesome video Alex! It's surprising the temperature differences some manufacturers/tuners allow. On the 5.9 common rail Cummins I believe they are rated to safely be at 1600f for up to 30 seconds and can sustain full load at 1400f. Come to think of it, it might be 1400 and 1200... But again, many different engines have many different allowances. On my 2004 Dodge, cruising on the highway I maintain ~600f just cruising on flat ground and as a I travel up hills I often reach 900-1100 degrees.

[@kimbird6554]

cast welding is different to metal steel welding .your manifold is cast steel.?

[@monsterram6617]

Fwiw, you didn't need to take anything off to install that EGT probe. You should have just tapped the manifold and saved yourself the trouble trying to weld. You didn't need to remove anything either. Simply start with a small bit, and work your way up using cutting fluid and compressed air to keep the area clean. The metal filings will not fall into the hole if you're careful and take your time... Cummins guys do this all the time with no issues, myself included.

[@keyboard101101]

This whole generation of Mercedes was well made, easy to work on, and relatively reliable.

[@Q.Lawrence]

I wish that is the case for my w211. There's always something broken on it.

[@rolf9138]

Except for those perches and electicals.

[@MrStellarness]

Most Mig welders don't like the main line at sharp angles or the wire doesnt feed through it. Hope that helps.

[@Nymi5]

Add more timing to injection map 27-29 degrees should be good for lower EGT:s... More fuel needs time to burn or it turns to heat.

[@spitsomefire]

If you are going to weld around the car make you disconnect the Negative side of the battery or use a protector for the battery

[@martinmo195]

In Norway we set the limit on 700 degrees celsius👍

[@theonlyDerp]

On merc cdi engines?

[@Valhalla996]

Deor god you DO not weld casted iron and normall steel together 🙈🙈 that is goig to crack so badly. And that is not welding seam., thats something else., it will leak. !

[@monsterram6617]

Yeah, I told him to drill and tap the manifold... he didn't listen. 🤦‍♂️

[@johankriel8883]

@@monsterram6617 He could have used a cast iron welding rod like Magna 770.

[@monsterram6617]

@@johankriel8883 Sure, but he could have just tapped it. Welding a bung on this is just a bunch of extra work for the same result, with the added possibility of cracks and leaks in the future.

[@pwbpeter]

Yeah i have not even watched the video yet, but welding cast iron to stainless steel is a bench job for a specialist welder. Drill and tap it !

[@Valhalla996]

I think you can even buy rst fire resist ehaust manifold for this modell. Or just handmade it. At least europ you can buy.

[@ne2i]

Also, I think that these EGT gauges are more useful in trucks. You can see how hot the exhaust is when towing heavy loads up hills. You doing any towing with that Merc?

[@Fosgen]

You should use nickel electrode to weld cast and preheat iron first. I would silver braze it.

[@onhawaii]

Add a gasket for the manifold and maybe some new studs for it. Thake the damn manifold off and bench weld it next time. That saves you some headache welding the bong.

[@michaelcuff5780]

On diesel trucks we just drill the exhaust and thread it with a tap and die set. Ive only seen guys weld them on the tin part of the exhaust.

[@CM-ev5se]

Enjoyed the vid like always, surprised you didn’t just go with a 1/8 NPT tap and thread the probe right in the manifold, but as long as it works

[@tatoringo]

I believe you left the gage circuit unprotected, the add-circuit is connected backwards, I believe the 5 amps fuse is doing nothing

[@ne2i]

I put my temp probe behind the turbo outlet. The Jet engines I worked on had their probes in that position. I drilled while the engine was running. This blows out the metal chips.

[@tommygjerrud7234]

Hmmm....welding normal steel like st-37 or stainles on to cast iron..🤔 if that stick's over a time, I'd would like to know what type of gas and thread you used. By the way, the reason you burn throug aluminum, is oxidacion. Brush or grind the welding surface just right before weldin. And last but not least, Great youtube chanel 👍👍👍👍

[@milimao]

Hi. Does your tune include the "EGR off"? If yes, the exhaust temperatures are rising significant.. That´s probabely why you measure higher temperatures at part throttle. Normally the EGR function is redirecting exhaust gases to the intake and which helps decreasing exhaust temperatures for emisson purposes. It would be interesting to compare EGR/on off temperatures at part throttle. Steven / Germany

[@goclunker]

Question: which benzes have factory LSDs? I have a awd Dodge Grand Caravan that supposedly used a Mercedes rear diff. I'd like to make it an lsd since the front is open.

[@cykelsimon]

Contact the guys at Black Smoke Racing, they use an OM648 engine in their driftcar. They probably knows what kind of temperature you can expect and what the maximum safe operating temperature is.

[@GIGABACHI]

. . . and the DIESEL GOODNESS keeps pouring all over us . . . NOICE. Keep it coming !😎 P.S: Thanks for reconsidering the weld's quality and finish. No, it definitely is not up to your standard. Redo it, please. 👌

[@JamesParus]

usually cars with DPF have already temperature sensor. just need ODB display to see it.

[@LegitStreetCars]

No dpf

[@rockingarchangel]

Also if your egts are a problem look into snow performance to add water/meth at a certain egt temp

[@terrymiller4176]

I would like to know how removing the vanes in the intake manifold effects engine performance? Mine has a broken vane that almost went into the intake! If removed will an error code cause a problem and how can I fix that ? Would also like to know if 647 injectors for a diesel sprint 2.1 liter can be used in the 211? Thanks!

[@deanclarke9702]

Hi From the uk ... I have this engine in my s320 cdi it’s covered 150k full service history and my family owned for 8!years . It starts drives like new ... actually the whole car is still like new absolutely no warning lights and no problems what so ever ... i got a very very good one. My question is what kind of performance over the reliability are you looking and or getting from these mods please ..... also have a 350 sl 3.7 that is a pure toy for me .... what can be done to this for more performance please

[@wernerdanler2742]

While you had that vent out did you notice if your thumbwheel has a bulb behind it and is it easy to get to? My 01 e320 right side vent wheel stopped lighting up recently. It just has a single line on it and I don't want to fool with it till I know and how to get at it without breaking the plastic. I hate things that don't work right. I bet you had one of those windmill things on a stick strapped to your bike when you were a kid lol. Not good to weld two different metals together.

[@Smooovie1337]

800-900°F exhaust temp. is pretty low. Normal exhaust temp for a diesel engine is 1300-1650°F

[@farmingandmercedesbenz4140]

install injectors from c30 cdi AMG w203 if you need more fuel they FIT :)

[@kevinthouvenell1750]

You should have preheated in a oven or torch like 400 degrees get the temps up the weld it up

[@willmorrell488]

Any updates on the E55?

[@parkerbenz]

Yikes... cast iron welds, rusty ground... anyways, I just got a 2005 E320 CDI! Other than the black death, I love it so much! it is soo much more powerful and much nicer than my 1999 E300 Turbo Diesel with 435,000 miles!

[@22rabbits]

Can you drill and weld into a cast manifold without first heating the manifold to a really high temperature?

[@johnhirsch4679]

I have a 2006 E320 CDI, my outside temp indicator will not switch from Celsius to Fahrenheit do you have a trick to correct this???

[@jjohn662]

Love the T-shirt !! I actually work for them. No Joke!!

[@samgrabel8648]

Might want to see about building a dual injection pump kit

[@clagueb3686]

Any comment/advice on Mercedes E250 Bluetech (2015) 2.1 DOHC BiTurbo. Stay away or go for it?

[@PARDS2]

STUPENDOUS--AWESOME--SUPERB-----GREAT EPISODE!!!!!! WITH NO CAT AND NO SWIRL FLAPS, DOES THE TUNE KEEP CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS OFF?

[@PaulDinwiddie]

I am a relatively new subscriber, Alix, but I've been a Benz fan for over 5 decades; just got more serious about doing my own repair work after finding Mercedes Source. (I have owned several w123s) As you probably know, Kent Bergsma (I think that's how he spells his name) doesn't do much beyond the 123's. I have had a 99 E300 TD for about ten years and bought a 2005 E320 4-Matic(w211 correct?) over a year ago, not knowing about the diesel models! UG. I've always owned the diesel models except for my first Benz back in 1982; I bought a 1972 280SE; it was awesome! (Forgive the rambling; a little OCD here ;-)) Anyway, I am thrilled to have found your channel; I am now looking a good w211 diesel. I would love to do some of the things to it you have done to yours. I appreciate you providing so much info; it inspires me. When I went to change the glow plugs in my 99 I destroyed the head, as I didn't know enough about what can go wrong. For instance, I did the repairs in my garage in the winter (very cold here in Southeast OR.) I snapped two of glow plugs and destroyed the head trying to get them out!!!! Later I learned that I should have got the engine hot first. (I saw you make a joke about fixing "the black death" on a cold engine.) Now, I know better. But it was a VERY costly mistake which I will never do again! DUH. Please, keep posting all these wonderful informational videos! I truly appreciate you!

[@DreammoreRealty]

Thank you for explain step by step. We'll love you if you do that in all or your videos. We are here to learn from you