Let's Build a Graflex - Episode II: Basic Kit Assembly

Welcome to my video series "Let's Build a Graflex". This is part 2 of my tutorial series on assembling and installing electronics in a Graflex 2.0 Lightsaber hilt. In this video I go over all of the steps necessary to assemble your Graflex 2.0 kit in a variety of ways. I also go into detail explaining some of the ways I have modified the assembly process to make it either easier and / or more screen accurate.
Unfortunately due to the size, I am unable to list all of the parts and tools in the description box. But don't worry!! I have gone ahead and created a thread on FX-sabers.com were you can find it, just follow the link!!:
www.fx-sabers.c...
To continue with the rest of my series please click on the link for the corresponding video. Thank you for watching and May the Force be With You!!!
Episode I - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode II - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode III - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode IV - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode V - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode VI - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode VII - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode VIII - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode IX - • Let's Build a Graflex ...
Episode X - • Let's Build a Graflex ...

[@boston4715]

My advice for applying the grips: I found that one of the seven holes lines up with one of the six holes, a handy point of reference on your first grip. When doing this its best to view it from the emitter end so you can see the unused hole at the same time and align it. Also, you can use the reflection of a light source behind you, which will appear on the surface of your saber. It will make straight & centered reflective lines that span the whole length of your saber around the middle area. After applying the bottom end that uses a "plug", you can use the light, Luke, to keep the other end reasonably parallel, and bring balance to the grips. Finally, the next grip to add should be on the opposite side of the previous, this ensures a reasonably even spread of grips. This means applying them in the order of a "star", like 1,4,2,5,3,6 or 1,5,2,6,3,7,4, etc. Why? Because you are likely to place them slightly wrong each time. It may not be noticeable on any One alone, but that error will add up. If you add them like 1,2,3,4,5 you may end up with a considerably small amount of room for no.6, making it seem crammed in and or wonky. Adding them by opposite helps to distribute the error leaving you with gaps that are perfect to the naked eye. hard to explain, but i hope this helps.

[@TomMSTie1138]

Thank you so much for this tutorial! I just got myself a 2.5 kit (and some extra parts from the Graflex Shop; thanks again) and this video is full of awesome tips for a butterfingers like me.

[@jamesbetteridge211]

Seriously, THANK YOU for this tutorial! Can't wait to get my kit!

[@EastCoastSabers]

Your'e welcome my friend!

[@jester001]

Great tutorial! If I'm going with the ESB grips placement, do you recommend disassembling the top part for better grip positioning or can I just put them as it comes right out of the box without taking it apart? Edit: I'll not be adding electronics for now, mostly as a display piece.

[@robertfousch2703]

I cannot tell you how much this is appreciated. I don't know if you will cover the VV tactile switch install (I have that and the 1" kit), but would love to see that. I've been pondering how to install those "roller tip" micro switches so they mount properly.

[@EastCoastSabers]

+Robert Fousch I do not cover them in this series, but if I ever have someone commission me to build a 2.0 using the VV 1" kit I may do a video on it for people.

[@robertfousch2703]

+Shoot2Thrill468 Message sent via FB regarding VV install.

[@Rohnon]

I think about getting this kit, but the second sets of holes for the grip strips set me off, as I plan on building a crystal chamber. However this set has alot of advantages compared to an actuall Graflex flash

[@gridcoregilry666]

Really nice way to get the red buttons clickable. Done with this part.

[@isacchernandez7600]

For the heatsink the .875 is out of stock on thecustomsabershop.com. Is there any other place i can buy it? Or can it be a different size because KR sabers is selling 7/8 heatsink but i don't know if thats the same size or not.

[@PraxisVisuals]

So I just received mine in the mail, putting it together and noticed that the Circuit Card does fit like you said. Now I don't really want it to be PERMINANTLY attached because, well I just want to be able to take it apart when ever I want. Can you tell me what episode you put that section together with the card installation?

[@EastCoastSabers]

I apologize for my late reply my friend. If you find your clamp card does not fit snug you can try watching the beginning of Episode V, where I demonstrate how I modify the clamp braces so you can tighten the clamp more that you normally would be able to. If that doesn't work you can try a tiny dab of E6000 glue under the card. This will lock it in place while still making it be removable with a little bit of force if desired.

[@Phillguy]

what hex size are the hex screws? I don't believe they are 7/64ths.

[@quigonfishing1545]

When Ordering replacement buttons for my Korbanth 2.5 replica from Graflex Shop, should I select the 2.0/Romans threading, or the standard threading? Thanks!

[@busload_uk]

Thanks so much for putting so much time and effort into these tutorials. I received my Graflex 2.0 today and I'm glad I decided to watch this before assembly! Quick question - if I wanted to install a basic 2 x AA LED flashlight guts as a quick & cheap interim project before I decide to go 'Full Nano Biscotte' - could you point me in the right direction?

[@LettuceMuncher1]

You are the most amazing KZbinr ever!!!

[@LettuceMuncher1]

I finally got my kit and I am putting it together really great but I am going to do a purple Crystal in the chassis and with a purple led but I do not know where to get a sound board

[@EastCoastSabers]

You can get a broad range of sound boards from thecustomsabershop.com

[@LettuceMuncher1]

East Coast Sabers thank you so much

[@nicholasroberto2051]

I wanted to add electronics to my graflex. What chassis kits will fit a roman props graflex? I'm a kinda new to this.

[@EastCoastSabers]

There are a lot of chassis options. The most popular ones are available from Goth3Designs or MB-Sabers on Shapeways. www.shapeways.com/shops/goth-customsabers?section=C5+-+Graflex+Vintage&s=0 www.shapeways.com/shops/mb-sabers-1

[@bailiejones796]

So it will take about 2 weeks 4 weeks would you say to come to the uk

[@EastCoastSabers]

probably closer to two, but I can't say for sure.

[@Ziglotzag]

I noticed in later videos you modified the clamp so you could spin the little tab in order to tighten it and keep the circuit board in place. If you got this just as a set piece (no electronics), could just sand down that part of the clamp exactly as you did in a later video and not have to use any sort of tape to keep the circuit board in?

[@EastCoastSabers]

Ziglotzag Sure. The electronics have nothing to do with the clamp lever mod. I just do the mod to allow the lever to spin and tighten the card in.

[@toni_mend]

wait so you can only do ANH or ESB for good? you said you shouldn't take off the grips because of the adhesive so how can you alternate between the two versions?

[@EastCoastSabers]

You can't really. The kit provides you with enough parts to make 1 of 3 versions, but once you decide which you're pretty much locked into that decision.

[@patricktheelder]

what size and style of blade plug would I get from the custom saber shop

[@EastCoastSabers]

If you are using the original inner core you want 7/8"

[@jamesmontoya8706]

Mine is coming soon it has not shipped yet, but What tools and other things do I need other than WD-40?

[@EastCoastSabers]

If you look in the description box of the video, you will find a link to my FX-Sabers forum post where I list all of the parts AND tools I used in this build as well as the links to where you can buy them.

[@EastCoastSabers]

www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=49611.0

[@completeGamer007]

What are those swtiches for that attached to the card?

[@EastCoastSabers]

I get all of my clamp switches and switch holder from a seller on the IRA. Just message him and tell him how many you want, then PayPal him the total. imperialroyalarms.com/thread/5646/interest-graflex-activation-switch-holder

[@benjaminmasters5375]

2:51 is that core the same thing luke used to make his lightsaber? i am pretty sure

[@EastCoastSabers]

+Benjamin Masters The inner core used in this 2.0 actually started it's life as a Luke RotJ saber. For some reason they decided to turn it into the inner core for this one. It's a shame really, if it was smooth they'd be able to fit a larger blade in it. Vader's Vault has an inner core replacement that does just that.

[@Greg9524]

Hey I had talked to you on one of your other videos. You use 30g wire, and I just got some. I'm used to working with all sorts of wires but it seems very fragile. A wrap around my fingers and a quick pull and its easily broken. Would you consider that normal 30g wire? Obviously its all just imagination on your end but i just wanted to make sure that sounds semi correct. Thanks!!

[@EastCoastSabers]

+Greg McKinnon The wire I use is relatively fragile, though I've never really tested the structural integrity of it to be honest. I use 30awg stranded tinned copper wire, not sure the exact kind you bought. I get mine from a gentleman in the UK but I've recently discovered another seller I might try from if the sell in individual spools. As far as it being strong enough for this application I probably wouldn't worry about it. Once the saber is assembled those wires should never move. You should also be leaving a little bit of slack in them when you're build it so as to not stress the solder joints. Hope this helps!!

[@Greg9524]

It did thanks!!

[@bailiejones796]

Do the new 2.0 kits come with a gold clamp card

[@EastCoastSabers]

Yes. A greenish PCB board with gold contacts.

[@alanshmahlen21]

Tried using my two 7/64 hex keys on my new kits. Neither fit into any of the screws on either of my kits. Any suggestions?

[@EastCoastSabers]

That's my mistake man, the small allen screws are actually a 1/16", not 7/64".

[@tetemar6177]

I got the same kit from jeff parks, but there was something wrong with the clamp so I have to replace it. How do I get the clamp off? It seems like it is on there pretty tight.

[@EastCoastSabers]

Simply follow the first half of the video where I demonstrate how to disassemble the hilt. I recommend taking the top half apart, and sliding the clamp off the top so you don't damage the lower underneath the clamp. Once the top is disassembled and removed, open the clamp lever, remove the Allen screw securing it to the inner core and simply slide it off.

[@tetemar6177]

Shoot2Thrill468 I really have to take apart the top half? Okay I will study your videos religiously then. I really don't want to screw this up. Love this thing. Thanks for the reply.

[@EastCoastSabers]

You don't HAVE to, it's just if you don't slide the clamp off the top you risk damaging the lower half. See, the clamp can sit rather tight on the lower half and when you unscrew the lower with the clamp still on it can gouge the metal leaving deep, very noticeable rings around top half. This isn't a problem if the side you aren't using for your grips is already hidden under the clamp. And by that I mean if you want it to be an ESB / TFA version and you get it with the 6 holes on the bottom than you're all set. If you want it to be ANH and it comes with the seven holes hidden under the clamp you run the risk of damaging that part when you remove it.

[@tetemar6177]

Shoot2Thrill468 I actually only really want the TFA version, but I still think I would rather be safe than sorry. The only problem is I don't have a socket small enough for the little gold pins, and I don't want to use the pliers you used in your video because it almost looked as though you damaged the edges of the pin bolts. I will just wait until I have the spare part/tools and will be very careful. Thank you for your help you are very informative. Have you ever had a problem with the chrome peeling before? Have you ever used paints to touch things up?

[@EastCoastSabers]

I have seen the plating come off before. These are mass produced kits from a Chinese manufacturer and sold at a reasonable cost so flaws are to be expected to a degree. A simple solution to the brass pin issue is the ink cartridge inside a regular Bic pen. Take the ink tube out, use a heat gun, blow drier or lighter to lightly heat the open end of the tube. Once it's warm it will be nice and soft so simply slide it over the hex head of the brass pin. Let it sit there for a couple minutes and allow it to cool. When it cools it will harden in the exact shape of the hex head of the pin. This will allow you to easily and safely remove the pins without the need for any special tools.

[@adamherkelman4141]

Thanks for your help and the videos. Can't wait to get started. I do have another question. Where did you get the actual activation switch to go under the card? I like that activation setup.

[@EastCoastSabers]

I get them from a seller on the IRA. imperialroyalarms.com/thread/5646/graflex-clamp-activation-switch-holder

[@bailiejones796]

+shoot2thrill468 how long will the wait time if your. In the uk just order one how long will it take

[@c.a.k.comedy692]

The orientation of the kobold clip varies from scene to scene, for example I'm pretty sure the lightsaber in the snow had the d ring upside down, so it's personal preference

[@EastCoastSabers]

No the Wampa cave scene had it installed correctly. Though it was just ever so slightly misaligned with the grip. The Kobold is consistently placed in the same place throughout the move.

[@c.a.k.comedy692]

East Coast Sabers oh yeah right I'm thinking of the dagobah lightsaber, I just checked the parts of star wars www.partsofsw.com/ but I knew one was flipped. Anyway nice video, very informative

[@scissorman9569]

Does any one know where I can find this kit because I can’t find it anywhere

[@OVWBodyGuy]

Thanks for the videos. They are extremely helpful. Are you positive that the allen screw is a 7/64? Its way to big for mine. I can't seem to find the right size.

[@EastCoastSabers]

No I'm sorry, I misspoke. My driver set I was using was labeled wrong. I believe the smaller screws for the clamp, "slide switch" and under the emitter are a 1/16", NOT 7/64". I'm sorry for the confusion.

[@bananafishkills]

Just received my Graflex 2.0 kit and I notice my ESB clamp card is different from yours. Whereas yours appears black and silver, mine is gold and a kind of yellowish/silicon wafer color. Mine looks more like the ones sold by Wanna Wanga, if you're familiar with those. Which one is actually screen accurate?

[@EastCoastSabers]

The gold / green one you have is "more" accurate, though neither are truly accurate. Wannawanga does offer a good card but the most accurate are from Slothfurnace. The black and silver ones came with the original batch of 2.0's. The green and gold ones came with the later batches that we have dubbed the 2.1's.

[@bananafishkills]

Thanks for the reply! I guess I should feel glad that I received the "more accurate" version, but to be honest I preferred the black and silver. I think that finish better complements the rest of the design.

[@bailiejones796]

So I ordered a graflex 2.0 from the custom saber shop and I live in the uk how long do u think it will take

[@EastCoastSabers]

If you ordered from TCSS it should arrive pretty quick. They only sell what they have in stock and they ship very quickly.

[@charlesbrown2011]

The bottom half of my 2.0 is Stuck, when I open the clamp it won't screw open, I just got it today too.

[@markippolito2]

Hey David, My Graflex kit came today. The screws on the inner core are stripped and jammed in place they don't even screw in the whole way. Do you know what thread they are and where i can get some replacements? thanks.

[@EastCoastSabers]

Well do you mean the threads of the allen screws? Or the heads of the allen screws? Also, my name isn't David haha ;)

[@markippolito2]

Sorry Mat, I did mean to type Mat don't know how David got in there. The hex heads on mine are gone. I plan on forcing them by scoring the screw. I wanted to know what the thread of the actual screw. its the screws under the emitter and also the side "aux switch"

[@EastCoastSabers]

I believe they're either a 6-32 or a 4-40. And I use a small torx bit to remove them when they strip, which they ALWAYS do haha. It's best to replace them with accurate screws from KR Sabers.

[@markippolito2]

Awesome man. Torx 7 is what I used to get the stubborn screws out. And they are 4-40 so one re-tapped screws slide nicely

[@adamherkelman4141]

Do you have a contact for Harp for the blade plugs? Do you know of he sells them anymore?

[@EastCoastSabers]

I just messaged him through Facebook. I don't believe he actually sells them openly. If you want the most accurate Graflex blade plug you're going to want the black and brass option from KR Sabers. thesaberarmory.com/product/blackbrass-kr-sabers-graflex-blade-plug/

[@C.Bunjaj2003]

how much would it cost for you to do this exact build but with a wanna wanga clamp card and VV 1" kit

[@EastCoastSabers]

Thanks for the interest in my services! Unfortunately I am not currently accepting any commission builds at this time. If you would like however, I can direct you to a couple of other reputable installers.

[@C.Bunjaj2003]

Shoot2Thrill468 thank you, it would be very helpful if you could

[@EastCoastSabers]

Sure thing. So-Cal Saber Service on Facebook is a very trustworthy installer. You can find his info below. Start there, I can provide more if you need. facebook.com/Socalsaberservice/?fref=ts

[@matthewgibson9248]

Where do you find the harp blade plug?

[@EastCoastSabers]

I got a couple from Harp himself. not sure if he sells them openly, he kind of did me a favor.

[@mrfinance-n3k]

To make it even more accurate use a sloth furnace clamp card

[@EastCoastSabers]

I try to use one in all of my builds, but this customer didn't want one.

[@mrfinance-n3k]

i understand the client is always right

[@geichgange71]

Hey, just curious, how did you get the red button (the actual red part) near the bunny ears out of its housing? When I assembled it, it was inside of it. Do I just unscrew the housing and push the red part out from the threaded side?

[@EastCoastSabers]

Did your kit come pre-assembled? Normally the red caps should not be in the housing already. Unless someone put it there.

[@geichgange71]

East Coast Sabers No, it came straight from Korbanth. However, since I made this comment, I just took my finger and poked it through to push it out, and have turned it into a tactile switch with the momentary switches provided, using your tutorial for red button activation. Thanks for the reply anyway, though.

[@EastCoastSabers]

Haha, no problem man.

[@robertmyers8352]

Will these kits work with any set of electronics?

[@EastCoastSabers]

Yes? I'm not sure what you mean by "set of electronics ". With the right chassis they can hold all of the mainstream sounds boards and speakers on the market.

[@robertmyers8352]

@@EastCoastSabers sorry about the wording. You answer my question though and thank you.

[@bailiejones796]

And do you haft to use rubbing alcohol??

[@EastCoastSabers]

For which part, applying the grips? If so, than yes. It removes all oils and contaminates from the metal which will cause the double sided tape on the grips to not bond properly. If you don't clean it with rubbing alcohol your grips could fall off over time. It's been nine months and my personal one has seen plenty of use and the grips are still rock solid ;)

[@bailiejones796]

How long was the delivery of the lightsaber is it long

[@EastCoastSabers]

I what sense? Are you referring to the time it takes to receive the hilt kit? If so it depends on which vendor you order from and whether or not they have any in stock.

[@patricktheelder]

could you explain why the alcohol helps clean the surface

[@EastCoastSabers]

Alcohol is a natural cleaner. It simply eliminates all grease and dirt you can't see that stops adhesive from sticking properly. Grease can form an invisible barrier on top of the metal. The adhesive will try and stick to that rather than the actual metal. Rubbing alcohol removes the grease.

[@zackarycolley9201]

Is the grips rubber or plastic?

[@EastCoastSabers]

The grips are a hard plastic, which is actually more screen accurate. It;as also nice because the rubber ones can flex and "bulge" when you insert the screws. They also can deteriorate over time where the plastic ones wont.

[@beauharasti6511]

Can you modify the Graflex 2.0 to take a 1" blade??

[@EastCoastSabers]

Beau Harasti You can buy a 1" inner core from either Vader's Vault or TCSS.

[@Hopeles_opus]

I REALLY NEED HELP! IM PANICING! I received my graflex 2.0 kit, and after ! installed my grips ! screwed the bottom tube back on but now its stuck and IS NOT unscrewing! What do I do I'm desperate!?!?

[@EastCoastSabers]

That's a common problem that could go either way. What happened is the lower half is cross threaded which means the threads in the lower half are not properly engaged with the threads on the bottom of the inner core. My first recommendation would be to get some penetrating oil, my #1 choice is called P-B Blaster. Spray is into the threads the best you can and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes. The oil will hopefully penetrate in between the locked threads and act a lubricant that will aid in it unscrewing. Now it's not going to magically pop apart, it will still take some work. Once it's good and oiled try to loosen it. If you can get it to move a tiny bit then it stops, screw it back in and just keep going back and forth. Keep doing that until hopefully it comes off. If THAT doesn't work you can try heating it. Either with a good heat gun or a torch. Heat the metal where the threads are and try to remove it. Once you finally get it off clean the threads, make sure they're not damaged and GREASE THEM. Absolutely important with any thread especially fine threads such as these they need to be properly greased with white lithium grease.

[@Hopeles_opus]

East Coast Sabers Thank you so much I will try that!

[@EastCoastSabers]

No problem man, good luck!

[@Dcomps]

Man.. Was excited to get this.. but when I started putting together, I assumed that part of the hilt where the grips go, arrived on the same side that this guys did, so I ended up putting the first grip on the wrong side.. I'm an idiot, I know. Ruined the grip and the hilt getting it off. I contacted Parks Sabers. Reallllllly hoping they could send me a replacement for my horrible mistake.

[@EastCoastSabers]

Hopefully he will, though I know he's terrible at responding to emails. Good luck and sorry for your unfortunate situation.

[@Dcomps]

+Shoot2Thrill468 Yes I've noticed that unfortunately. He replied immedately asking me to send him a picture of the damage, but its been a week now since then. Im thinking that I'll just buy a new set of grips from custom saber shop, or just make the ANH saber and buy a new graflex kit if he doesn't reply soon.

[@Renfield37]

how much are these things and where can you get them ??

[@EastCoastSabers]

Graflex 2.0 kits are available from multiple sources including Sithplanet.com , thecustomsabershop.com or Parksabers.com . The parts to make it a functioning saber are available from several places as well. A link for the complete parts list can be found in the description box of this video.

[@PraxisVisuals]

I ordered mine from TheCustomSaberShop.com, did you get yours from there as well or somewhere else?

[@EastCoastSabers]

I get all of mine directly from Korbanth on Facebook and the FX-Sabers forum. He is much better to deal with than Parks in every way.

[@PraxisVisuals]

Huh. Interesting. Are the Korabanth sabers and TCSS sabers the same kit?

[@seanoor7535]

I'd assume they are. I just ordered one from TCSS.

[@a7xforeverfan608]

hey where did you the saber kit?

[@EastCoastSabers]

You can get them from TheCustomSaberShop.com when they're back in stock.

[@a7xforeverfan608]

Ok thanks man !

[@TaylorCFP]

Would this tutorial work for the 2.5 kit?

[@EastCoastSabers]

It will require a few small modifications but it is 95% the same.

[@beauharasti6511]

where can I find the Clamp switch holder piece?

[@EastCoastSabers]

You can print it from Shapeways or you can order it from the seller directly and he'll include the switches. imperialroyalarms.com/thread/5646/interest-graflex-activation-switch-holder

[@lukewilliams60]

Do these DIY sabers come with sound

[@EastCoastSabers]

Luke Williams If you install a sound board, yes.

[@lukewilliams60]

is that a hard process

[@EastCoastSabers]

It all depends on which soundboard you install and what chassis you're putting all of the electronics in to. If you watch the rest of the videos in this series I demonstrate every step necessary to turn this empty kit into a functioning saber.

[@lukewilliams60]

OK thanks for the help

[@cristianfiochetti724]

can you activate the subtitle please? I'm from Argentina and I'm very interested in your videos

[@windelllewis5404]

How much are one of these sabers

[@EastCoastSabers]

You can buy the empty hilt kit for $195-$230. That is for JUST the hilt which comes with the grips and everything you need to assemble the outside. You will still need to buy all of the electronics and other internal parts. For a completed functioning saber with full light and sound the price really depends on how much you put into it. A base line one would run about $400 but you can go as high as $1,000 or more. It's all up to you.

[@patricktheelder]

where would i go to find a graflex 2.0 kit

[@EastCoastSabers]

You can find them at Korbanth.com

[@bailiejones796]

Do you live in the uk

[@EastCoastSabers]

No, I'm on the east coast of the US

[@bailiejones796]

What was delivery time

[@EastCoastSabers]

I'm a little confused, delivery time for what?

[@deange2001]

is it normal for my bunny ears to be "sloppy" aka moving around a lot? in your vid it looks like your bunny ears dont move at all

[@EastCoastSabers]

Most of them move constantly. It is rare to get one that is tight. That being said, if you remove the bunny ears and VERY slightly pinch the two little tabs on the upper body half closer together they should wobble less. You may have to fight to get them back in a little bit but it shouldn't wobble as bad. They need to be able to move in order to open so be sure not to glue them in a fixed position.

[@matthewgibson9248]

At 19:35 Hehehe Screwed up! I need to get a Life

[@bailiejones796]

Good cause the silver so inaccurate thanks for quick reply

[@EastCoastSabers]

No problem man!

[@benkenobi615]

10:00. Vodka works well also. 🙂

[@coffeerules111]

Buying stuff from Graflex Shop Thank you

[@bailiejones796]

Oh okay

[@bmxriderforlife1234]

sorry but never use wd40 on threads.......it has metal particulates in it. computer duster would probably work to blow out any metal bits and then some regular greese for the threads then roll the glass eye back and forth for 5 minutes and it should be good. while not likely to happen wd40 can damage threads.

[@iboiboneknaw3024]

Ha Ha "screwed up" unintentional puns

[@patricktheelder]

no pun intended

[@TheJACKCOLORADO]

I'm having a hell of a time finding Graflite battery holders for my Graflex cameras. Now I know why. Adults making childrens toys for themselves. Oh well.

[@EastCoastSabers]

Firstly, these are not vintage Graflex flashes, they are replicas designed to look like similar so no one who is building these are actually taking anything away from you. Secondly, congratulations on considering yourself better than other people simply for having different interests. Way to prove your maturity. By harassing and belittling people simply for the things they enjoy.

[@TheJACKCOLORADO]

Firstly, humor was implied. Secondly go out and purchase a sense of one. Sorry your feeling got hurt.

[@EastCoastSabers]

If humor truly was implied than I apologize. I'm used to taking abuse for my "nerdy" interests and I am equally used to defending myself from bullies who for some reason think they're better than others simply because they have different interests. If it was all in good fun am sorry for my harsh response. Sarcasm is the most difficult thing to read on the internet haha.

[@TheJACKCOLORADO]

Yes, the internet knows not voice inflection. All is good. It is a bit frustrating though finding more articles and videos on converting a Graflite to a lightsaber than it is on synchronization of camera shutters with the Graflite. LOL I'm the nerdy one my friend, I'm out taking photos with 1940s cameras in a world of digital easiness. So, may the force be with you. ;)

[@TheJACKCOLORADO]

Oh, and like your custom Sportster. You sound like a candidate for the Distinguished Gentleman's Ride. gentlemansride.com

[@Hopeles_opus]

Is there a way I can purchase only the ESB/TFA handle grips?

[@EastCoastSabers]

The best place to get grips is from Wannawanga.com They require you to cut them to the proper size and cut the proper notches but you won't find a more accurate grip. Sloth Furnace also sells grips.