Let's Talk Cracked Engine Blocks

Not all cracked castings are created equal. Here's a rundown of the common causes of cracked engine blocks, how they happen, what you can do to prevent them and an overview of which type can be fixed and which type are fatal.
#freezeoutplug #coreplug #antifreeze
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[@machinist5828]

When I was a teenager I worked for a machine shop in Nashville TN and the boss there showed me all sorts of cool repairs. If you have a block that has windowed from a rod break it can be fixed if none of the structure is damaged. A lot of times the busted out part is long gone. You go to a scrap block and cut a piece out and use that. Like you said, unless it's super rare or real big it's usually good just to use it to repair the next one. We never used nickel because the expansion rates are so much different. On a long stringy crack you must find the ends of the crack. Mandatory. You drill a stop drill hole just past where the crack ends. We had cast iron plugs that were threaded on a taper like a pipe. V it out and you can clean it properly and use iron infused Devcon or it's cousin JBWeld. About every 1/2 inch or so down the crack put one of these plugs in. You grind these plugs flush with the block afterwards. The best way to me, notice I said me, is to braze the crack up. The thing here is sufficient and sustainable heat. We had old gas range burners that ran off of the natural gas supply in the building. After stopping drafts with welding blankets you heat and keep it hot until well after you are done. The heat is slowly brought down then just kept covered after you turn off the burners. It's got to cool slowly on any braze repair. The biggest thing to remember it there should be no sharp edges anywhere the brass will touch. Cast iron is pretty stupid metal compared to say, spring steel. Cast iron is stable and strong to an extent. But it lacks the alloys and other elements to make it have an identity. Cast has a lot of sand and other impurities in it that just doesn't weld. That's why it's so darned difficult. Back to sharp edges. The sharp edge will get hot faster and will overheat before the base metal and burn the steel out. That leaves the garbage behind that won't weld. Either you grind it out to good metal or scrap it. The trick to cast iron is to polish out all of the sharp edges like you are polishing a port. If possible grind only 2/3rds of the way through to the bottom of the crack. Round off any sharp edges. No mirror finished stuff here as you need some grinding marks to give the brass to grip to. Use a flux that is for cast iron. Talk to your welding supplier. We used a red powdered flux but there are blue fluxes too. Do your homework. If your heat is right the brass will flow like solder on a brass pipe. Do not overheat! After it has cooled past molten stage lightly peen the surface of the brass. We used to take the large sanding discs like for a 9 inch grinder and lay it flat and gently tap on the disc with the grit side down. That leaves the impression of the grit in the brass and helps relieve the stresses in the surface where it cools the thickest. A 40 to 60 grit works the best. It also helps hide the repair to make it more cosmetic when you paint it. Brazing takes years of practice on cast iron. Go find the oldest most established welding or machine shop. Get the old guy that has been doing this stuff. Brazing cast iron is not for beginners. If you must, go get some scrap blocks and practice. And practice some more. Remember... clean, smooth, rounded, proper flux, pre-heat, don't burn the metal and cool slowly. Oh yeah..... go find that experienced guy. Shut your mouth, open your eyes and ears. Learn something. Ask intelligent questions. I tried to keep this basic and simple and it still was a friggin book. Good luck! Cheers Terry from South Carolina

[@duncandmcgrath6290]

Solid advice 👌 thx

[@albertgaspar627]

UTG, are you reading this? If you can go down the rabbit hole of points distributors and fuel economy quackery, find a guy like this local to you who knows how to blacksmith or do diesel repair the old way (not the lincoln tech way). We salvaged a cracked cylinder head off a John Deere Model 40 pined and brazed it since we had to time, rebuild the exhaust port on the Gravely walk behind when the bolt housing snapped off the side of the flathead. Machinist58, absolutely SPOT ON about grabbing a broken block (like a chevy 305 no one wants to repair a 400 4 bolt small block with an ear busted off) and taking parts from that! I have some old "NFG" blocks lying around for that purpose. people just give'em away as garage art. I used to do some "cutaways" with them like the old 1950's shop class or dealership demo would have, with the new special parts for the engine painted in Rustoleum chrome or something.

[@glenncrockett4451]

I just love learning about ways to save things by repairing them and not replacing them. I remember hanging with a buddy at his repair shop one time when he asked if I wanted to go to our local junk yard to grab a few things he needed to finish up a repair on some 80's Chrysler, window switches for both sides didn't work and he said his partner at the shop tried to fix them and couldn't. I took that switch with me and went searching, found two switches that looked the same except the main plug was either in the wrong spot or something like that. When we got to the shop and I had everything laid out it looked like I could take the switch apart which I did and I used all the good parts and got two working switches. I then looked at what was left ( parts that his partner screwed up taking it apart ) and I said I can fix this as his partner was walking by, he stopped and said ( with a Tude ) you can't fix it cause I already tried. 15 min later I had two working switches and walked over and handed them to him and said now you have spares and walked away, he walked out mumbling under his breath, my buddy was laughing and said to me your just a dick aren't you lol.

[@humourless682]

TIG brazing is far faster and more effective than gas. Use phospor bronze rod DC current. Deeper cracks do a root pass, but most can be repaired in one go. Get everything as clean as you can, but if the casting is oil soaked, or very dirty, might be a need to go over it with the torch a few times, to get the crap out.

[@machinist5828]

@@humourless682 that's one thing I tried to do but had no success at. I was going to show my troops that it could be done and naturally....... I realize now I probably had the polarity wrong. Heat is heat right? Logic says it should be able to be done......... Famous last words. Never show off new things in front of the trainees...... LOL! Cheers Terry

[@georgeparker7409]

A method we used on flatheads (three times) was th stip the block completely, build a large wood fire, put the block in the fire and hallow it to heat up. Not red hot be hot. Brazed with two torches at once and let it cool. One raced a whole season with no further problems. Back in the 50's ya had to improvise!!!!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

exactly what i was about to comment, natural wood coal fire is just the right temp

[@ronprice1819]

I have an oxy acetylene welding book from 1939. Really great book. Details almost every fix and procedure you could imagine. Even just experimental fixes. But I remember a section on repair of large locomotive parts made of iron. It showed how to build a fire and preheat the iron. Also while the fire would added carbon to the weld. I gotta find that book! Better not have lost it when I moved.

[@godsowndrunk1118]

But, back in the fifties flatheads were a dime a dozen...they were giving them away...

[@albertgaspar627]

Flathead fords had the good crack, and the bad crack. Getting 'em hot was only half the battle, you had to make sure the metal cooled slowly and uniformly--some of the blacksmithers would shove the part into a pile of sand so it wouldn't air cool if you were too cheap for welding blankets no doubt, UTG's should really look at old blacksmithing tricks for engine building. How to de-rust an old part with molasses dip or electrolysis in washing soda, using bolts and nuts to press push frozen valve guides into hot cylinder heads and so on. if we can sit thru fuel economy scams, we can learn how to save an old part to save dough or after "the big one" hits and you just can't order up a replacement cylinder head or something.

[@diegosilang4823]

The method is alive and well in some parts of the countries. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5rCf4Z8ppWlbqs

[@Slotcarking]

You’re a wealth of great information and knowledge Tony! I appreciate every video you produce.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

Repairing it by 'pinning' is the best choice for a crack like that. Actually, once done it can be made very undetectable. Pinning is way better than welding for a non-stressed area.

[@patrickradcliffe3837]

great minds think alike, as soon as he said fixing boilers I knew the score.

[@UberLummox]

Is pinning when you cram a buncha brass screws into the crack? I've seen it done but dinnint know what ya calls it.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

@@UberLummox Not brass. It's a ferric alloy. You want the thermal rate near to cast iron. Basically, in a nutshell, you drill a series of spaced holes along the distance of the crack, extending beyond the crack to stop it from migrating. Tap the holes, thread a pin into the hole with threadlocker, snap off the driving head, grind down the protruding end. Install another round between the first set so they overlap each other until the entire crack is 'stitched' All of them should overlap and be as deep as the base material. Once this is done it will be sealed and the repair should be peened to relieve stress. Once done it's pretty well obscured, not invisible. I've seen heads done and put back into service with no problem.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

@@UberLummox Some call it 'stitching'. You can use regular grade 2 bolts and whizz the heads off. You can buy kits with snap off bolts and a jig. This biggest thing is to get the spacing right. It's not hard to make a jig. A long time ago it was all done by hand. Back in the days of steam engines it was required before welding was really perfected. Cast iron is a very fickle metal to weld (not braze) in the best of cases. Back then the cast iron was so junky and full of impurities it was almost impossible. For a block I would trust this method over welding. That block will be perfectly fine for use after it's fixed. Just as good as before. A long, long time ago I needed a cast iron part welded and went to a REAL welding shop. The guy that owned the place, an old timer told me 'I can weld it for you but It's gonna let you down, It's gonna let you down.' So I just left and bought a junkyard part.

[@albertgaspar627]

Pinning or stitching isn't a bad idea, certainly in a non-stress area of a skirted block. since its down that low, the block can also take some HardBlok or concrete fill--was normal on drag engines back when aftermarket blocks were just a dream. Combustion heat is concentrated at the top of the cylinder, and a few street racers even made it to their destination driving with a block having concrete in the lower half to keep the main caps from walking around. naturally, running on alcohol rather than gasoline will help (runs cooler) even more.

[@barryrussell4106]

I love the leader into the repair procedure and then not telling us what it is. You have peaked my curiosity and I can’t wait to see what it is. Smart way to retain interest. Your a clever cookie

[@oops1952]

Thank you for the info....very interesting!! Good to see you got your bounce back. Getting bummed over an engine is a real drag

[@ShakeYourFist]

In the case of this block, it might be a good candidate for filling up the lower end of the water jacket with epoxy. We used to do this on our drag motors to add stability, especially with over boring. I learned this from Papa Kriebs and flat head fords.

[@albertgaspar627]

epoxy hell, its time for concrete or HardBlok. Its a drag engine, so the only hot spot will be up at the top of the cylinder.

[@ShakeYourFist]

@@albertgaspar627 That is what I was referring to, filling the lower part of the water jacket. Papa Kriebs used quickcrete or tile cement.In this case, a 2K Produkt might be the best hoice

[@albertgaspar627]

@@ShakeYourFist Epoxy generally gets used to shape exhaust ports (floors etc) but you've got the right idea. This block, from what we can see, is easily savable. Next step is to bore the 361 out to a Pontiac 455 piston or go stroker--i think 480 cid is possible, and would be a nice street engine. even filling up the water passages to a certain point wouldn't hurt so much on the street (no sitting in traffic tho) since most heat is at the top of the cylinder and then goes out the exhaust. But for those who want to respond, notice i said "so much"--there were a few street racers running cemented blocks on the street before aftermarket blocks were common. they weren't daily drivers, but they did show up to Connecting Highway etc on their own.

[@ShakeYourFist]

@@albertgaspar627 I was talking about the 2k pourable product, not JB weld.

[@henrymateo1713]

I just wanted to let you know that I enjoy your content and how you explain what you are doing in detail. All the best to you Uncle Tony

[@vincentenk4449]

Informative as usual Tony, thanks!

[@johnnykruger5212]

Awesome video Tony! I believe the original Big Foot 429 block had some welds in it because of the abuse it went through and replacement parts were so hard to find.

[@tigerseye73]

Love this channel Tony. Always learn something here. Thank you.

[@bobhill3941]

I watched this on my lunch break, another fantastic, informative video. I can't wait for the video on the technique for repairing cast iron.

[@craigbenz4835]

I bought a '73 Dart with a 318 once. When the engine reached operating temp, the oil pressure dropped to zero. Broke down the engine to rebuild, and brought the block in to be boiled. Cracked cam bearing bore, scrap block. Put in a junkyard 318, and on the first fireup again when the temp came up the oil pressure was zero. Don't know, but suspect it had the same problem. The junkyard was a good one, and honored the 30 day warrantee. The replacement engine ran fine for years. Never before or after had I heard of a cracked cam bearing journal.

[@pauberrymon5892]

I've run into to those main journal cracks before and it is so defeating to find them it just kills any estimate you make before you take it apart to inspect it. I would always just go to the scrap yard and get another one on the cast iron blocks. When M.Benz went to full aluminum blocks the same thing happened in the exact same place, right in the middle of the main journals, where the oil ports were. Some guys would try and weld them up to try and save the customer about $3500 for a short block at that time, but eventually just they ended up replacing the whole engine anyway because you can't guarantee it to last for 2 weeks let alone another 100,000 miles, and a complete bottom end (short block ) for the Engine was cheaper and quicker to fix due to the extra labor required to rebuild it on an empty block at the time, and since they were new you couldn't find any of those in a scrap yard either. Great info Uncle Tony. Keep'em coming.

[@johnk3386]

Thanks Tony..Awesome video! Always loads of info in your videos

[@elfmagejr82]

This is perfect timing cuz I've got a 7.3 the previous owner cracked but sealed up just enough that I didn't notice it on purchase (had to replace the oil cooler and flush the system which cleared out the sealer as well) I'll definitely be tuning in to the next video

[@thefixerman1]

Great video. I suspect you will be doing metal stitching. A real art and skill in reparing cast iron cracks that is a permanent solution. Still see this being used in classic car repairs here in the UK. Amazing to see this being performed to repair a cracked block. Thanks for the superb channel.

[@markallen1413]

Great info as always Uncle T..... I really enjoyed winning the bid on that intake the other night.... very cool 👍👍👍👍👍✅✅✅✅✅

[@caddydaddy6728]

I'm looking forward to it thanks UNK keep the knowledge coming 👍👍

[@gordthor5351]

"All of the sand" doesn't always fall out. In high school a friend had a 74 360 that always over heated and the cause was only realized when he rebuilt the motor and found a bunch of sand still in the block.

[@vincentknight5358]

Cat had some issues with sand in the castings of a few C-18s we bought.

[@GMCJay_lly]

Ford 6.0 ps

[@albertgaspar627]

seems like most stories i hear about too much sand left behind involves Mopar small blocks during the first bankruptcy era.

[@cammontreuil7509]

If I blasted parts I could never get it all out no matter what I did to clean it. So I stopped. Found another way to clean parts.

[@EitriBrokkr]

I knew a guy who bought a chevelle new back in the day, kept over heating, had sand in the water jacket

[@throttlewatch4614]

Tony can take any automotive situation and make an interesting video out of it

[@hagerdhotrodz]

That's awesome that you will be able to use the engine in some capacity.

[@MrVavrousek]

Great explanations on cracks.. Thank you!

[@Mynextproject_74]

I used to repair huge machining equipment and I know exactly how you are going to fix that block. Looking forward to it! I haven't done it in years!

[@ianstoys13mgs]

Cold metal stitching I would assume ?

[@Mynextproject_74]

@@ianstoys13mgs That's what I think he will do.

[@michaelgarrow3239]

Welding; or brazing in a kiln. Bubblegum!

[@mikekokomomike]

JB Weld to the rescue. 😆. I knew a guy that patched a cylinder head on a 4 cylinder fwd Chrysler back around 1978 just to unload it on a dealer.

[@67L-88]

@@mikekokomomike old fashioned original Roman formula JB Weld?

[@hooptierescue2540]

I would also have my reservations about the core plugs bore being painted inhibiting their proper operation during a freeze.

[@albertgaspar627]

UTG is wrong about "freeze plugs". That was a myth, back in the early days farmers would save a dollar using just water as coolant and one noticed his core plug popped out in winter and Ford took credit for it since he had his reputation as thinking about the little guy. How do we know? b/c UTG shows us right here, his 361 cracked there. Water has no brain, it doesn't look for the way out of the block that won't offend the block's owner. Fast forward to 1969, Ford threads its core plugs on the Boss 302 block to gain strength to its low deck Windsor block--why do that if they're meant to push out? They only exist to let core sand pour out after manufacturing.

[@SuperKONR]

if you're stupid enough to think that they will actually push out then you deserve a cracked block

[@WaybackTECH]

I wish I had someone 20 years ago that explained these things. You are a wealth of knowledge. I always heard Cleveland was better than a Windsor but no one ever said why. You are the why to my understanding Uncle Tony!

[@paulhoogeveen7353]

If your going to use a Cleveland block use one cast in Geelong Australia, there stronger and lighter than the US cast Windsor or Cleveland.

[@logan_e]

@@davetherave6569 4 bolt mains were available on Cleveland's too.

[@413x398]

@@Andrew_406 More GM nonsense. Are you aware that the Cleveland has a shorter deck height than a Windsor? What makes it a "big block"?

[@413x398]

@@Andrew_406 As I said, more GM nonsense. Those dorks started the whole small block and big block crap, which has no place in the Ford world. 351C/351M/400 are 335's. 370/429/460 are 3.85's. 289/302/351W are 90º, and the rest are FE's.

[@gurneyforpresident2836]

Hey all, read my comment above. Tony got this one wrong about Windsors.

[@liling2008]

Thanks you uncle for the information you shared

[@Z_732]

Looks to be a good vid coming up, I'm pretty sure I know how your going to do it. I've seen it done, never tried it myself. It will be interesting to see you guys do it. Good vid UT

[@davidj.2870]

Drill holes at the end of each crack, tap it for a screw in plug. Then do the same thing between the plugs along the crack. Grind it smooth and its done. Might take a few to seal it but it works.

[@cammontreuil7509]

It's how they fixem in Pakistan.

[@mattyduncan4679]

That's how I've done it. Used a dab of JB weld for thread sealer just in case. Never. Had any issues with the repair either.

[@godsowndrunk1118]

Back before the after market started making new Ford 427 blocks again , I saw some extreme lengths gone to, to save or resurrect heavily damaged or over bored blocks .Like side skirts with huge chunks blown out both sides or furnace brazing all new cylinders in.

[@tomcrosby6332]

Good info, Tony, Thanks

[@thman6453]

Those fenderwell headers are awesome 👌

[@williamstamper442]

Tony I've watched many a video on fixing cracks on flathead ford V8s. I got a daily driver 1950 Ford Tudor sedan (2 door post). I'm almost certain this engine is not original to the car. But anyway the way I understand it every flathead Ford today that hasn't been built recently by a "professional" then there are cracks between the exhaust seats especially and into the top of the cylinder bores. I have no doubt that old flathead banging away in my car now has cracks. Thing is it still runs freaking great. I can push start the car with one foot leaving the gas pump dumping the clutch in first only pedaling it about 10 feet. Anyway...cracks on other engines are a big deal especially when they find water. The flathead community truly has several unconventional means of fixing cracks. Always watch uncle Tony, but also pay attention to these flathead ford channels for crack repair tips. Love ya man! Take care Tony!

[@stevesadusky8634]

Looking forward to your next video doing the repair. 👍

[@NoOne-wv6zc]

Years ago in the 1970's the machine shop i worked for we use to "stitched " the blocks using screws and locktite. It was a long process but it worked.

[@moparcasey3135]

Glad you’re gonna fix it!

[@jerryfarmer5989]

When I sent my '65 383 mag to the machine shop I had a feeling something was up. Yep a curved crack on drivers side from center plug to front plug, not all the way. Cost me $548.00 for them to fix. Now you can't even tell it was ever touched.

[@bobbrinkerhoff3592]

Back in the early ninetys we used to go to Napa and get a bottle of KW diesel block sealer .just be sure to follow the instructions exactly . The 440 is in a 68 Roadrunner to this day , the 421 S.D. Pontiac was destroyed in a barn fire 10-12 years ago .

[@kelvinrf]

Some of these young guys are going to get a shock watching your next trick. I can't wait.

[@stephengreene1856]

Wow,I didn't know people still did that. My grandfather welded cracked blocks for a long time,He was a good welder and understood castings and metal.

[@hitekbigmek]

yea.. no sealer on the core plugs? tell that to every rebuilder in the country .. when that utg 318 was on Nick's dyno .. EVERY core plug leaked water .. the question was raised and the answer was Tony didn't have any sealer at the time .. no one builds an engine with the expectation of freezing ..

[@tonyc223]

Yep, brass plugs with permatex #1.

[@hitekbigmek]

@@tonyc223 yep .. as if a swipe of permatex will permanetly bond the plug in place .. the plugs weren't designed to pop out and if any do the block may be cracked too .. i've applied a sealer to core plugs since 1971 when i built my first 327 .. on circle track engines i drill and tap the outer diameter and add 2 machine screws to make sure they don't come out

[@hughobrien4139]

Uncle Tony, you bring forth some valuable points and information. The idea of not using sealants on freeze plugs is legitimate and has been practiced by my father for as long as I can remember. However as an owner of a automotive machine shop, this practice will serve only liability. You must make every effort to ensure that plug does not leak. On the issue of cracks caused in the lifter valley during a freeze, those too can be caused by the stress of the intake manifold being torqued down spreading the block out. Conversely the cracks on the outer side of the block can very easily caused by binding engine mounts. I have dealt with blocks being flexed to the max on numerous occasions. I one instance the engine went into a new car. The engine had already seen life in another race car and was freshened up with no out of character corrections. The way the engine was mounted in the new car proved to be extremely rough on the block when the car went into severe tire shake. It literally tried to tear the Bellhousing of the block off. The chassis issues were corrected and so was the same block. The block lived well afterwards. So severe tire shake and engine mounting parameters can introduce issues.

[@pupussadie2125]

Right on uncle Tony

[@oldtimerf7602]

Glad you are fixing it and not turning it into a grenade for spectacle.

[@The340king]

I saved a 360 block that had been dropped after all the machine work was completed. The prior owner JB Welded the corner of the block including a portion of the deck back on the block. He raced it for a couple of years before I bought it. The chunk ran through the water port from the water pump up into the inner valley up to the deck in a triangular shape. I ground out the surface areas of the JB weld and used special cast iron wire for my MIG welder. It runs fantastic and quit leaking into the head bolt hole after welding.

[@daledavies2334]

My brother who is not a mechanic decided the engine in his Volvo P1800 needed a rebuild. They got the machine work done ad were assembling it when another friend arrived with a dozen browns. They had just pushed one of the piston assemblies in, installed the rod cap and finger tightened the nuts without torqueing them. Had a beer and continued installing the pistons. Got it all assembled and back in the car. Dad who was mechanically inclined told him to come get him when they went to start it. Well, they started it and were setting the timing and carb when it started knocking. Those rod nuts backed off and the rod came out the side. He got very fortunate in that the rod just knocked tw.o pieces out of the side but the pan rail was intact. Took the block and pieces to a welding shop and they V'd the pieces and block, tapped the pieces into place and brazed them in. A new con rod, grind the mains and new main bearings and they got it running. This time he got Dad out for startup. Ran well for a couple of more years and he decided to sell it. Lesson learned, never install bolts without tightening them. Dad had a friend who was a journeyman mechanic and Sunnen rep. He had told me that "never install a bolt without torqueing it" bit of wisdom.

[@jamesblair9614]

I can think of two 426 HEMI cars that were from my area, they were less than ten years old at the time, and were bought and sold numerous times, going through many hands. They were always bought with wiped out bottom ends, and the new owner would grind the crank and replace bearings and put it back together. Sometime shortly after, new owner would be going for it and boom, history repeats itself, up for sale. I used to hear the stories from the local strokers that HEMI’s had notoriously weak bottom ends, and everyone nodded their heads. Eventually, someone looked a little deeper and discovered that both engines had cracked main webs, and at some point enough oil would take the short cut through the crack and spun bearings again. The cracks likely collateral damage from years earlier. Since then, I’ve seen another HEMI block that looked fine on the outside, but looked like someone had brazed the main webs in numerous places, and I can’t imagine what caused that amount of damage without opening a window.

[@cammontreuil7509]

That may explain my neighbors car. 67 hemi charger. He bought it new. In about 1974 the bottom end went out. Put a new crank in it. Drove it. Did same thing. In 1976 he asks me if I wanted to buy it for $800 bucks.

[@jamesglenn2006]

The suspense Tony , Geezus man???

[@danielward-allen9825]

Very cool Uncle

[@firebird77clonefirebird89]

I know of a repair to a tractor block, cracked water jacket: he drilled and tapped holes to match a plate large enough to cover the crack. Slathered it with jbweld put on the plate and torqued down the bolts.

[@tommyreid2317]

Bought a 71 roadrunner back in the 80's with a title for $100 , was going to rebuild and put the 383 in a 72 ' Cuda, but it was cracked up under the intake like that, I heard Heb McCandless had some new 440 short blocks with steel crank and flat tops for $800 ,used the 906's off the 383 and added hemi valv springs, would love to have that road runner now ,was actually a really good body, that was back when the cars were still cheap

[@thomasheer825]

Tony worked in a foundry for some time and actually these core plugs primary reason is to set the core. The core is a sand based mold that is chemically treated to hold shape during the pour and the heat then bakes the core which falls apart as the casting cools. Had to maintain these core machines and they are a real pain in the ass to keep working as that binding agent gets into everything so you are constantly repairing the machine for the next days operations.

[@jimvellios1426]

interesting. good intro regarding what to do or what were faced with in the event of tgis type of scenarios. followthru tutorial would b good.

[@davidrosales3663]

Now that's my Uncle Tony!!!!!!!

[@lilmike2710]

Had an 83 Camaro when I was a young fellow and it got left without antifreeze. CRACK right on the side of the block. I was devastated. All my fault. A freak freeze in Alabama busted my 305HO and I thought it was a goner for sure. That's when my dad introduced me to JB Weld. And I honestly thought he was crazy. Used it and continued to drive that car for the next 3 years. I even almost forgot about it.

[@Impactjunky]

Yeah I fixed a nasty crack in the 360 on my Trailduster with JBweld as a teenager too. There used to be a story on the JBweld package about how the City of Dallas, Texas repaired a cracked Caterpillar engine block with JBweld in a pinch and saved 4 grand and 30 hours down time. JBweld is some super strong stuff, it gets a bad reputation from people who don't properly clean the surface or people who mistakenly buy the JBkwik rubber cement junk made by the same brand.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

This can work on lifter valley cracks as well but it's very hokey, IMO. Much less risk in the case of external cracks and if done carefully (prep, clean grease/oil[) it can hold up for a very long time.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

@@Impactjunky Agree, I believe the bad rap mainly comes from uncertified JB Welders.

[@lilmike2710]

@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 Yea that's the thing about it. The secret to good results is in the prep work.

[@leidersammlung6955]

I tried JB Weld on a dodge 5.2 with a crack between a piston and a cooling port. It ran for about 10 minutes,then began happily mixing oil and coolant again, while pressurizing the intake manifold way high. Coulda been my bad weld, but I’m pretty good! It was the work of several months of weekends and evenings,still sits in a corner of my shop years later, not sure what, (if anything) I will ever do with it.

[@dionrau5580]

If it's cracked only on the outer wall of the block you can fix it with j b weld, or Marine tec.. it really works.

[@williamstamper442]

Ok contrary to my earlier comment about Oldsmobiles never crack, I got a story. Around 1987 ish, these older feller's I knew were messing with 403 Olds engines. Without getting into all that, I'm gonna say this... Keith from skinny kid race cars is the person in particular I'm taking about... He had a 500plus hp 403 olds in the driveway around 1987. Car was a 1972 cutlass supreme body. He parked it outside in a Detroit winter. Come April we found the poor 403 with the windowed webs block split in about 5 pieces because of water only and he forgot to drain it. He let the block freeze and split in 5 pieces. I was there. Anyway the roof of this particular car ended up being on the first generation white with gold stripes, Brian Robbins driven Hurst Olds alcohol blower and hat car that skinny kid built while doing all the mustang stuff. That first car before it wrecked only shared the roof to the car I'm talking about where the 403 froze and pretty much split in half. Damn Tony, we are getting old. I just had to tell you this story about "cracked blocks". It's not even my only story about cracked 403 oldsmobile engines. I know the vid is about hairline cracks and how to fix em, but I couldn't resist throwing that one out there. Edit : had to do the edit. I was fresh 18 years old and had a big block muscle car myself, but got an opportunity to take Keith, now "skinny kid"s racecar with the 403 to Milan dragway for high school nationals. That was always a big deal and alot of men put their teenager into their 9 sec back half rides. I got to run this 11 sec Olds with a quarter stick hurst shifter. I was so freaking nervous over that shifter at the time. We made one pass, I went 12.01 lifting. Then we got rained out. I had to add this part in the edit. I knew Keith for years before he became "skinny kid". The name fits him however as he was a grown man about 135 pounds and lived off of mountain dew and butter noodles. It's not a requirement but many of our "hero" drag car guys lived off of a similar non healthy diet back when they were young and hungry. All the money went to the program, eating food was not even in the picture.

[@cobrajet8866]

more of that Uncle Kathy action please.

[@lilo2469]

Sent it to Pakistan truck They Fix EVERYTHING

[@cliffcorbitt9494]

5:30 I have plugs in my 96 Jeep 318 in the heads as well. It's how I got all coolant flushed perfectly.

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Good stuff. Happy Motoring.

[@paularndt6111]

I can't wait to c this method. I got an old cast iron scrapple couldren that was passed down thru 3 generations that has a Crack in it. It would be great to fix with out spending a fortune to get it welded.😁😁😁

[@ve2cii]

You have just answered a question that has been bothering me for over 50 yrs. Why the block cracks if the frost plugs were designed to stop it. AHA!! The frost plugs were never designed for that. They were designed to allow the sand to come out.

[@timothybyrom5560]

I've seen a lot of late model Olds split down the middle too. Also those 2.8 60 degree chevys.

[@williamstamper442]

Tony I love how you described around 12:02 where the most stressed and weakest part of any V8 is located. You have experience with Nitro hemi stuff so you know by fact how much this area is stressed and how important it is. Just ask any 650+hp Ford 302 stock block guy how important this area is!

[@mikehagen3785]

500 HP on a stock 302 has it flexing enough to loosen intake manifold bolts and snap oil pump ears off. If you're pushing 650 you need an aftermarket block like now.

[@413x398]

@@mikehagen3785 That only applies to the factory-lightened roller blocks. Early castings will take more power.

[@buckeyejim2989]

You're rite bout a crack in the galley area but a guy knowing how to handle a oxyacetylene set could (95%) sure do a brass repair on that block.🤔🙏 Love the content Tony Keep it coming 👍👍

[@buckeyejim2989]

Run that 361 down to Johnathan W👍 get him to do a collab. JW has a triumph herald that he started a few years back and the comments got bad nuff he quit on it. 427-350turbo car😁😁 dana 60 n Corvette spindles on front Take a sheet metal guy and wrap that hotrod up💔 if he'll let ya. Much Love regardless

[@nastybastardatlive]

I helped fix a crack like that when I was a kid. The old man ground a valley into the crack and welded it with a stick, like the size of a chop stick. It held up, but it was a customer car, not a race car.

[@superduty4556]

Ask Hunter, he's a crack expert.

[@will7its]

Nice one.......🤣

[@mikekokomomike]

Talk to Phil McCracken

[@unclebob7937]

Ask the Mad Pillow.

[@Ripsaw17]

I live in Michigan and I found that the brass freeze plugs or core plugs work way better and they don't rot out cuz we tend to use salt in the winter on the roads here plus it's a softer metal so it does move a little easier than the steel core plugs do if I do something stupid like leave water in my block which when I was young and had a lot less money have ran water in my system before just to get by during summertime

[@reaper20015]

My uncle Franny showed me the petcock on the lower drain plug holes a long time ago. It really saves time and a big mess when you're swapping an intake or water pump. Seems like uncle's know things.........

[@oldtimerdh]

In cold weather country they are to install block heaters as well!

[@rondye9398]

I have a Ford 460 in a jet boat that cracked in the bell hosing area from freezing. Drilled, cold welded and sealed with epoxy 9 years ago!

[@gernblanston4956]

Back in my younger years I welded up well over 100 blocks (mainly chevy) used in dirt track racing. I always arc welded them up with nickle rod and had great success.

[@duncandmcgrath6290]

Same , did plenty of pre and post heat ... blocks had long lives after that .

[@pelonconstante6271]

@@duncandmcgrath6290 I have a chevy 250 block with a small maybe 3/8” long crack from someone tightening a corner head bolt. There is a coolant passage on the inside. Do you think I’d be better to try to stick weld with nickel or just put some JB weld. I’m just worried about seepage if I don’t fix it

[@pelonconstante6271]

Gern Blanston, any suggestions on my comment below

[@dennisford2000]

Boss had a nice convertible back in 78 231 odd firing special, white and a black top . It was cracked in exactly the same way between the plugs left side. Marine Tex . I have also had a bad experience with a very small crack in a block just below the deck rt side

[@guvsgarage]

I cracked the cast iron block of a Volvo diesel in my tug boat about 10 years ago. A welder buddy of mine (passed now) had what looked like a wax stick that he dabbed on the crack once it was heated a lot with a propane torch. It melted like wax and flowed into the crack. It had metals in it I think and smelt like sulphur when it was heated. The engine still runs to this day, and is used all and every summer with no leaks. Now I know my diesel does not have a pressurized water jacket like a car does, but I am still impressed. Problem is I asked him at the time where he got it, and who made it, but the make wasn't marked on it, and he had had it years and couldn't remember where he bought it.

[@tomreyn3610]

Sounds like some kinda flux

[@seanorr7]

Another great video

[@stevekendra8983]

Maybe I'll say something tomorrow on live, but I wouldn't mind your take on how to build not a "performance" engine, but just a super reliable one. When I get a vintage car, I'm not going to race it. I'll be driving it as much as possible. Id want my engine build to have stock power (though extra power would be a pleasant surprise) and be able to drive 2-4 hours on a trip and not have to worry about breaking down.

[@georgeparker9977]

As usual you are right. However this one was special. Full port/relieved, over bore on a Canadian block. Rumor had it that the Canadian 59AB were of a higher nickel content. Based on this rumor we went up to Canada and purchased eight 59AB blocks from a junkyard. They were stamped 59AB with the word CANADA also on the bell housing. Not many of us left to either prove or dis-prove this but we found that the blocks did last longer. ?????

[@jamesholcombe435]

Anybody named uncle tony must be a wonderful mechanic.

[@todddenio3200]

Depending on where the cracks are located, a simple yet effective solution is to add coolant into the system and start the engine bringing it up to closer to operating temperature and add a can of evaporated milk NOT SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK into the coolant and run it for about 20 minutes adding coolant and more evaporated milk as needed. The evaporated milk seeps into the cracks and cooks into a solid only in the crack and seals it with a solid that will last for years and can even be painted over for a nearly invisible repair. This will not plug up things you don’t want plugged such as radiator or heater core tubes that aren’t leaking. This is actually THE ONLY form of stop leaks which John Deere recommends and accepts that will not void their warranty, and if it’s approved by John Deere for use on machines that can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars or more, then it is good enough for me. I have even used it when a head gasket went and I had to get home before I could fix it. 2 years later and I still haven’t changed the head gasket and there has been no coolant loss, no overheating, and the heater has been working fine for 2 winters. I have used it on leaky radiators and heater cores as well as cracked blocks with 100% success and swear by it.

[@joelcalel275]

Thank you because I doubt they teach this stuff at school

[@jayislander]

Fr?

[@skylinefever]

Well, when the block comes off the assembly line, the freeze plug holes are in ideal condition. When the freeze plugs need replacement, often those holes are in far from ideal condition, and polishing them up is no guarantee of a good seal. As a result, people will put anaerobic sealer on freeze plugs during installation. 10:00 Yes, in extremely rare parts, furnace welding is a great thing. However, there can be a long waiting list to get it. 11:56 It has been said to be the the end of many military humvee diesels. Some companies had to make greatly redesigned 6.5 diesels that wouldn't do it, but fit wherever a 6.5 or 6.2 diesel was installed.

[@lexchaotica190]

At the Ford Windsor Engine plant casting defects and cracks account for alot of air test leaks .We separate them out and return them to the vendor (nemak) .

[@johnmcdonald587]

Are you referring to drilling and tapping and installing interlocking threaded inserts?

[@dillonmiller956]

I once fixed a cracked 318 in an 85 dodge pickup with JB Weld. The thing frost heaved and broke open inside just above the lifter bores on both sides. I cleaned, ground, torched, pounded, and grooved out the cracks, mixed a big batch of jb weld and put a thick patch into and well around it. The thing ran and I sold it to a guy letting him know exactly what I did and told him to call me when it finally blew out again. 2 years later he called me to say it was still running and his kid was going to drive it to high school!

[@davecrow4615]

Good video!!!

[@garagepunkfan]

The oldtimers used to tell me to use Indian Head or Gasgacinch gasket shellac on core plugs because those would seal imperfections, but still allow them to push out if it freezes

[@robertmedsker5305]

Look forward to the trick.

[@fredschmidt6802]

With the cracks I knew some guys that would tig weld them . Those were for boat motors I have heard of braze welding them but you think it's for people who live the alternative lifestyle ( works great on status ) would be cool to see this very old method .

[@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852]

Block fill just past the crack and brand new used.

[@scottmoot2969]

In the day got a v8 Monza for $50 that had a triangle broken out of the side. We pulled it and found the piece. Had Marinetek glue and stuck it in for shits and giggles. We weren't going to waste time putting in anything. Buddy shows up, needs anything that ran for a work car, he's down and out. Gave it to him, it never did die.

[@albertgaspar627]

Ford Boss 302's threaded their core plugs to give strength to the block. They weren't meant to be pushed out, water doesn't have a brain to find its way to the exit. Many snowbelt drivers put their block heater into the core plug opening, and other engine builders swaged the core plugs. automakers would be more than happy to sell you another engine when you don't follow the owner's manual. Meanwhile, since this is intended to be a race block, time to pour in some HardBlok--only the top few inches of the bores' gonna get hot anyway during operation.

[@unclesquirrel6951]

Personally I blame squirrels

[@SuperKONR]

I swear this is the only intelligent comment on this video 😆👍👍

[@jamesholcombe435]

Ahh nuts

[@NialPowerCork]

Very interesting thanks.

[@charlesboston1]

lock-n-stitch works really well

[@jamesrogers5783]

seems like we had a number of Jdeer engines with some kind of brass/bronze weld over certain areas of the block where these engines had tossed a rod . only one of them ever leaked after those repairs..

[@glendekoker3682]

Great channel

[@chuckthebull]

I had an engine that had thrown a rod threw the side of the block and someone welded it up and its been perfect ever since.. been running that engine for 7 years.

[@flnthrn2]

What a tease ! When you gonna fix that crack ?

[@rockforehead3022]

Looking forward to the brazing tutorial...

[@dennisdunton6530]

You'll be disappointed then.

[@coozy100]

Shop I used to visit used to fix blocks in the back. Had a propane hibachi long grill that sat on the floor. Warm up the block. Then bring out the gas axe out and fix the crack . Then youd see him wack away with a hammer. He was busy enough he did it every time I was over there. Should have learned to do it when I had the chance I would be rolling in dough