Lets Talk About Bottoms. The Evolution of LEGO

Welcome to Bricksculpt and thank you for watching. This video discusses some of the different undersides of LEGO plate pieces. Please let me know below in the comments if you have any other interesting examples that I missed. Also my Discord server linked below is a great place to see other peoples ideas and share techniques if you want to show pictures of things you have done LEGO. Thanks for your help and support!
/ discord
#lego #afol #legoaddict

[@EchelonNine]

I’m fairly certain they dropped out the centers of the bottoms on plates to save material. That tiny bit over millions of pieces adds up

[@DrTheRich]

That, but also shrinkage probably. When the plastic cools down in the mold it shrinks a tiny bit, reducing clutch power, adding the hole in the middle makes the shrinkage over the whole pin less, since it's not a solid piece of plastic anymore. There is a whole lot of micro adjustments being done to pieces to increase fit and clutch power. Some you can only see with a microscope. I know this because a friend of mine worked at the Lego factory, but she had to make those micro changes (not specifically this one) and test things. I think this is the edge lego has over competitors that isn't oblivious

[@EchelonNine]

@@DrTheRich excellent insight, thank you!

[@thejeffreysalmon]

I agree. However the exact opposite is true with the Modified 1x4 with studs on ends. Would cost more. Makes no sense.

[@logicianbones]

​@@thejeffreysalmon I'd guess that one's about strength of connection. That part is often used as the sole connection to huge removable sections like rooves or second floors of buildings (or vehicles). So it needs to grip what's below really well. I know from experience sometimes it doesn't.

[@DrTheRich]

@@thejeffreysalmon That's why I think saving on plastic isn't the reason, sure it adds up over time, but in terms of total savings it's an insignificant fraction to the amount of plastic lego uses in total. It's like saving 10 dollars on a million in profit. Not worth the effort of redesigning unless it also has other benefits, like improving the quality of lego over competitors so you buy lego instead of knockoffs that forget about these details.

[@Amythiz]

Now we need videos about tops (of Lego pieces) and (Lego) switches

[@bricksculpt]

Coming soon kinda

[@cooltaylor1015]

Please a video on stud logo variants. Please go into the occasional piece with stud logos that are oriented sideways compared to most pieces of the type. 2x4 bricks are most noticeable. There is more variation than just "old logo" and "modern logo". There are at least 3 subtle variations on the "modern logo". And spru holes being in the side vs. In studs.

[@oscarguerrero178]

Best title

[@bricksculpt]

Thanks!

[@dangerjamesproductions]

I love bottoms

[@L1nxdr1nx]

:3

[@eyeofcthulhu530]

real: 3

[@1_1bman]

oh believe me i LOVE talking about bottoms. and im sure bottoms love being talked about. especially if youre also talking about "long plates"

[@Hamuel]

Can confirm

[@salixcinerea]

Everybody talking about long plates, but the short plates with the added ridges? Pretty good.

[@DrTheRich]

My two cents on the holes in the pins is this: It's done to fight shrinkage during production to increase clutch power. When the plastic cools down in the mold it shrinks a tiny bit, reducing clutch power, adding the hole in the middle makes the shrinkage over the whole pin less, since it's not a solid piece of plastic anymore. I think it's similar reason for the lower holes in underside of the actual studs. There is a whole lot of micro adjustments being done to pieces to increase fit and clutch power. Some you can only see with a microscope. I know this because a friend of mine worked at the Lego factory, but she had to make those micro changes and test things. I think this is the edge lego has over competitors that isn't oblivious

[@bricksculpt]

I think you are correct.

[@RoanWitchArt]

Just to add to this answer; it also increases longevity of the part. When studs are slotted into the anti-stud they impart pressure onto those small pins, when two studs are pressuring the pin on either side it can cause permanent damage and deformation of the part because there is no way to release the stress except from either cracking or deforming. If the small pin has a hole in the middle, it is able to bend like a spring within its safe material elasticity range. This keeps the part under a safe amount of stress and allows it keep its grip for longer.

[@bricksculpt]

Good point

[@nabbydude]

On the 1x4 with studs on the outside: I think the unique design is just to add as much clutch power as possible, since these pieces are primarily used to separate pieces during play/display (between levels of buildings, etc) they're meant to release at the top and hold at the bottom, so its valuable to the design if that clutch-power contrast is as wide as possible. This analysis is pulled directly from my bottom though so don't take it as fact.

[@bricksculpt]

I think you might be onto something there!

[@M4TTM4N10]

@@bricksculpt Probably not a primary reason but it also makes it easier to differentiate from a 1x4 when in a pile (looking at the bottoms) :)

[@SethyWethyKine]

I think this is right

[@s1mp50n4]

​@@bricksculpt I've seen this point talked about before. I believe it was an interview with a designer that was on Brick Set or New Elementary where they explained that's why that part was changed. They talked about how that part is often used on buildings to connect the upper floors/roof to the walls below them. Apparently the problem with the old design is it didn't have enough clutch power on the bottom. So you'd pull the roof off to get inside the building and that piece would come off too. A minimal problem in the grand scheme of things, but still the part wasn't serving one if its intended functions. So the new version was designed to have just slightly more clutch power so how the part will stay in place when used in that way.

[@JaMaMaa1]

1x2 tile is a power bottom.

[@bricksculpt]

Love this

[@zxql_]

I think that plates should stay the way they are. Current plate bottoms provide stronger connection and that's important as plates are being used in structural support, whereas tiles and jumpers (usually) don't. Also being able to attach a plate in so many ways might make regular building more difficult and harder to follow instructions for beginner builders 🤔

[@bricksculpt]

Lots of good points. Thanks!

[@pulceilcane]

I Remember seeing a 1x2 slope, that had like a grill in the slope, that had the same "infinite" connection point thing as the 1x2 tiles

[@pulceilcane]

Just found it, piece 61409

[@pulceilcane]

Just found it, piece 61409

[@pulceilcane]

Just found it, piece 61409

[@gagothesour]

Oh yeah the power miners vent thingies. At least that's where I came across it first.

[@bricksculpt]

Nice catch I forgot about that one.

[@MakusGT]

I’ll be totally honest with you. I’ve played with LEGO when I was a kid, now I don’t own any set in my house. I got other hobbies, so this video, missed my point of interest completely. What’s keeping me here, rooting for your channel, is the obelisk. I really enjoy the puzzle part of those obelisk videos. The engineering, the idea, aiming for perfection. I hope you’ll appreciate this feedback, from a guy, who’s out of your standard focus group :) So yeah, Your doing great job, you bring a good content value to the table. Good luck mate!

[@bricksculpt]

Thank you so much! I have noticed quite a draw from the obelisk videos, and they seem to appeal to many outside the LEGO world, which is kind of cool. I do like to keep a mix of types of videos, and I understand they are not all for everyone. Thanks for your support!

[@AdamJasper18]

My guess for the holes in newer plates is simply because it makes a better injection moulded part. It's best practice to have parts with mostly uniform wall thicknesses as it creates a better flow of molten plastic. This way it gets evenly distributed into the mould rather than clumping into certain areas. This also saves money due to using less plastic per part.

[@memyselfishness]

As a mathematician, while your point about 2x2 tiles having infinite connection points is technically correct, I would call it a continuous connection point. Whereas, most pieces have discrete connection points, ie a finite number of them.

[@mikaelta1911]

This change in the 1x2 jumpers was absolutely revolutionary for me, my current moc literally would not be possible without it!

[@bricksculpt]

I 100% agree

[@Infinite_Maelstrom]

Personally I like the oldest jumper for it's smoother appearance. Also with the newest one, you can't connect clip pieces to the bottom like you can with the older two (this has once been a problem for me)

[@coolbugfacts3953]

the only thing i can think of for the change on that last piece is to make it more visually distinct from a normal 1x4 piece. like if you opened a bag with a lot of pieces and there were multiple 1x4 pieces and the 1x4s without the middle two studs itd be easier to tell which is which

[@bricksculpt]

I think it's clutch power

[@egemenogredik_]

I don’t know if it counts but transparent 1x2 bricks and 1x2x5 bricks are hollow on the inside allowing the same infinite connection type as 1x2 tiles. Any other one plate height pieces don’t come to my mind though

[@bricksculpt]

Oh yes good call!

[@tobiasrosch9386]

There are generally some older versions of 1 by x bricks, that come without the bottom pins. They all have "infinite" connection points. I think they were mainly used in transparent colors for obvious reasons, but I could be wrong.

[@BogusNoise]

Yeah, I think pretty much all the 1xX transparent bricks are hollow!

[@kailahmann1823]

@@tobiasrosch9386 interestingly trans-clear 1x2 bricks had the pins for a while, while tinted versions didn't. And the hollow 1x6 (3067) has probably the oddest story of any part: Introduced in 1969 for two printed versions, then finally unprinted trans-yellow in 1978, then trans-dark blue for a Basic set, where its barely used and a single Space set in trans-red (finally the empty design is needed!) in 1989… to only disappear two years later. Trans-clear and trans-green versions are only possible due to removed print.

[@cooltaylor1015]

Very old bricks and plates also do not have tubes. Some alao-old but newer plates have the so-called pin bottom instead of tube bottom. And don't forget waffle bottom plates!

[@geraldslaughter9286]

I have a red one by two plate instead of there being a you know peg on the bottom. It’s a thin rectangle on studio. It’s there occasionally I have to switch it out because I accidentally grab it sometimes when I’m building mocks.

[@cooltaylor1015]

This is an old plate, probably from the mid 1960s. It has what is usually called, confusingly, a pin bottom. As opposed to the more familiar tube bottom or the older hollow bottom.

[@darrellaldrich8334]

Regarding underside connections: The plates and tiles with the short bars on the underside will connect to elements with hollow studs in a jumper fashion. For instance, a 1x3 plate (3623) can be connected to the surface of a 1x2 bracket (99780) centered.

[@bricksculpt]

Yes!

[@das_robin]

2:16 Regarding the groove on jumpers: back when that was introduced, brick separators looked different, they weren't actually able to grab jumpers at all because they were only compatible with on-grid studs, not studs that are offset by half a stud, so the groove was just as necessary as it was for tiles.

[@MrHanKrewinkel]

My hypothesis is Lego crafted a easy way to visually distinct plates, tiles and jumpers when they lay bottom up. Kids only sort by color 😉

[@Ponk_80]

This is a smart move by the LEGO company.

[@alrinaleroux9229]

Interesting and useful -- it helps me to think about Lego. Thank you.

[@bricksculpt]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Stereomoo]

13731 has 6 studs worth (11 connection points) and it's really something to see. Transparent 1x2 + 1x4 bricks have the infinite underside. Also an interesting aspect of the old jumpers is that the old brick separator didn't work well on them, it hasn't got the middle stud hole on the bottom.

[@bricksculpt]

13731 is a great example I didn't know about thanks!

[@tobiasrosch9386]

Talking about bottoms and how many positions are possible. I see missed chances for some other ambiguous wordings 😜 Anyways, as always very informative and exciting. I learned about the old 2x2 round tile today, never thought of the 4 extra mounting points.

[@garrettgarrett9365]

I saw somewhere that having those holes in the center of the bottom pegs was to help separate the plates from the mold more easily and without deformation.

[@bricksculpt]

That's very possible

[@matthewlathom8314]

Love this series, I noticed 'BRICK 1X3,OUTSIDE HALF ARCH,W/ CUTOUT' I found on the PAB wall also has a bottom like a jumper found them in tan. A few of my curved slopes have this bottom, all 1x2 I have a few translucent 1x2 bricks that have no pins so they are like tiles BRICK 1X4X3 and other brick panels have jumper type bottoms too

[@bricksculpt]

Thanks. I will have to investigate those further Thanks for the tips!

[@NisseHult101]

Interesting! Never thought much about this topic.

[@bred4ev3r]

I should not be awake right now… yes ok I will sleep. But this is very interesting. I think the 2x2 round changed like that so that it could have that connection in the middle for tabletops and such.

[@bricksculpt]

Yeah it's definitely better to have a center hole but it's also good to have both available.

[@garrettgarrett9365]

@@bricksculpt I wonder what it would have to look like to have the cross and still be able to have a connection somehow in the center.

[@Pystro]

@@garrettgarrett9365 It wouldn't have a cross or circle, it would have 4 "dots" where the ends of the cross are. Imagine the insides of 3 "1x2 jumpers" next to each other.

[@bricksculpt]

Yeah 4 dots

[@Slaydrik]

I was kinda hoping you'd talk about the 1x2 grille plate with the tiny dash on the bottom side, cuz i always thought that was an interesting bottom

[@bricksculpt]

I Had it ready but left it out of the video at the last minute lol

[@bloodymarvelous4790]

The jumper also had a line of plastic instead of a round pin at one point. The hole in the center allows the plastic to flex more, and last longer. The pin could put stress on the plate, resulting in cracks.

[@bricksculpt]

Ok good to know thanks!

[@CraftsmanOfAwsomenes]

For the 1x4 with studs on the ends I believe it's to have increased clutch power because those pieces are typically used for play features where pieces are intentionally knocked off of the stud.

[@bricksculpt]

I think you are right

[@beaconofwierd1883]

Pretty sure the last change is simply a quality of life change for builders. If you have a pile of 4x1’s with some of the ”gapped” ones in there being able to easily tell them appart from both sides is nice

[@bricksculpt]

I'm gathering it's for increased clutch power

[@bricksculpt]

I'm gathering it's for increased clutch power

[@NickBrunnerYT]

Your videos are very relaxing to watch!

[@bricksculpt]

Thanks lol I need to start a sleep channel where I can talk you all to sleep lol.

[@MetaHydra-gj6ms]

Also translucent 1x2 bricks have the infinite connection point. It was used in the Lego ninjago city gardens set for the angled wall on the museum portion of the build

[@AdamJasper18]

Around 2020 they quitely changed so many moulds which changed basicaly nothing about their connections but simply made them slightly better in terms of strength and usability. Like the new technic pins which are easier to connect into holes. This is likely the reason the 1x4 plate/tile hybrid changed too. Small design changes can add a lot of strength to a part

[@Ijostrom]

To build on other comments: Shrinkage and clutch power are part of the reason for sure, but absolutely so is corporate min-maxing if that's not the main reason. It doesn't matter how minuscule the cost saving is, it will be done (In Lego's case, while also not sacrificing product quality). Businesses just innately strive for efficiency and growth. Fortunately, Lego is not publicly traded... The sum is greater than its parts. For example, if Lego reduced the thickness of cardboard used for packaging by 0.1mm and used slightly smaller bags for the pieces, that would add to the cost savings already gained from changing the plate bottoms. Nickles and dimes turn into dollars. Another (well-known) example would be when American Airlines removed a single olive from one of their in-flight meals in 1987. It was hardly noticed by customers, and saved AA ~$40'000 ($111'000 after inflation) a year. Combined with other cost-saving measures, it adds up. TLDR; Shrinkage and clutch power are part of, if not the primary reason. But do not underestimate corporate min-maxing.

[@natbarmore]

The people who _know_ why the pins on the bottoms of 1x plates, tiles, and bricks now have tiny holes aren’t talking. But the three most likely reasons are: • saving materials • improving quality consistency • improving clutch and release The kind of plastic injection molding that Lego uses works best if the thing being molded has extremely consistent thicknesses so that they cool evenly and don’t warp or bulge or shrink even the tiniest amount. So it’s possible that by adding that tiny hole, it helps the parts cool better, improving the dimensional consistency of parts. While molding consistency would help make sure the clutch power is consistent (and if you’ve ever built much with other brands of Lego-compatible bricks, you know how important consistent clutch power is), it’s also possible that (partially) hollowing out the inner pins directly affects clutch power. Lego parts have to deform ever so slightly to stick together. A hollow tube can deform more easily than a solid tube of the same outside diameter, so it’s possible that Lego discovered that that tiny hole can either improve clutch power or can make it easier to disassemble things _without_ reducing clutch power. My money’s on it being primarily about cooling and dimensional consistency , and cost savings is a happy bonus, and the difference doesn’t affect flex or clutch power. I’m like 99.99% certain that it is _not_ about creating a minipin hole as a connection point.

[@bricksculpt]

I think you are correct nice breakdown of it all. Thanks for adding this!

[@bittersweetdefeat]

My guess would be for not only more connection points, but it would also have less stress on studs being connected to the bottom of those pieces. Just a guess

[@bricksculpt]

You could be correct for sure

[@rothgang]

I think the first change you mentioned reduces stress on the pieces when they connect.

[@BerndTheBrick]

The holes save plastic. It's seems only a bit, but in sum of millions of pieces it's a lot. The first 1x2 plates had an elongated middle stud, so you couldn't put a hole stud into it.

[@liljajejiju4023]

at 7:50 a similar downwards jumper effect can be accomplished with the new round tile and a 1x2 jumper

[@CaraCreations1000]

He he funny title

[@shy_dodecahedron]

Definitely keeping it what it is. Too many quality of life improvements make us bad builders.

[@bricksculpt]

I like that outlook

[@LodanSD]

I just realized that the old Torso piece could also count as a Jumper... Edit: I acquired some of my Lego from my older brother, and he did not take care of his stuff. Anyways I finally figured out where a certain baseplate came from, while looking up the Torsos. I assumed the Baseplate was from a Firehouse, but it actually seems to be from a Hospital set 555, and there seem to be parts from the Rescue Helicopter 770.

[@bricksculpt]

Yes it is. I covered that in my old jumper plate video!

[@renswisse]

Some bricks also have variants without the bottom tubes. They are especially common among transparent colours as this looks better when you use them for water or windows.

[@Alexgudmusic]

I think the 1x4 with studs on the ends was changed to have more clutch power on the bottom. they are usually used to easily remove what's on top, I think they changed it so it doesn't stick to the top.

[@bricksculpt]

I think you are correct

[@jasferia1062]

For that last piece, the modified 1x4 with studs only at the end, I think they modified it for clutch power on the antistuds. I think the main use of that piece is for modularity (E.g. removable roves as seen in the modular buildings). I've used that piece many times and I know for a fact that when I try and remove a section of a build (which I intend to pop off), that piece comes along with it. Perhaps they made the clutch power stronger underneath for that reason.

[@PHILVD]

I'm pretty sure that one reason for the hole in the stud is that it saves material and has a positive financial effect for Lego.

[@bricksculpt]

I thanks it has to do with production in some way.

[@InkyOwOComics]

Perhaps with that 1x4 piece it could be to differentiate it from the regular 1x4 when its in a set. The older version does look quite similar to a regular 1x4 plate so it may have changed to make it easier to spot what piece it is.

[@dropkickedmurphy6463]

There are a million connection methods to talk about.

[@dropkickedmurphy6463]

My favorite bottoms for the record are the 1x2 tile. You can put it on a single stud, and if you dont mind the potential illegality of it, slide it around. Fun!

[@bricksculpt]

I agree. I don't see the illegality though.

[@dropkickedmurphy6463]

@@bricksculpt some see the stud friction thing as illegal.

[@edwardlees4585]

That pin hole is the Lego equivalent of the American Airlines olive!

[@Infinite_Maelstrom]

I have used the tiny holes in the underside of 1x plates to make bonfires and similar. The pins in the bottom of plates and 1x bricks connect to clip pieces. The jumper-plate ability of the old 2x2 circle has been used in official sets as recently as 2012 - set 9492. Window bricks without pins (1x wide) also have (had??) the infinite connections. Not as on topic, but several older parts (eg 2342, 30162, 4360, 3962?) have connections which match modulex bricks.

[@Infinite_Maelstrom]

Imo the new version of the 2x2 circle tile is an almost unmitigated downgrade. You can also fit 2x2 square tiles into the underside (antistuds->antistuds) of the old 2x2 round tiles, making great paving effects.

[@JanBeetz-e8g]

As for infinite connection points on the bottom: at least 1x2, 1x4 and 1x6 Bricks had sometimes "slides". Back in the day they came mostly in transparent colors and were used as windows

[@bricksculpt]

Yes I forgot about those.

[@AdamJasper18]

Transparent 1 x 2 bricks also have the infinate connection that the tiles have.

[@nexusnui]

I think both versions of the plates/bricks are still in production. I have seen bricks with filled rods in modern sets.

[@bricksculpt]

Interesting I didn't know that.

[@slice0024]

Something to mention some plates like 3034 had a "waffle" bottom as well!

[@bricksculpt]

Oh dang yeah that's super old. My grandparents had those when I was a kid lol.

[@Aranthappyrobot]

Maybe they ditched the tube on the underside to make it easier to remove from other pieces? Not everyone gets the bigger sets that come with the brick separators and those tile pieces can definitely get annoying to remove at times.

[@Pystro]

Good point. I noticed that the undersides seem to be designed to manipulate holding strength: The 1x4 with studs only on the outside is (according to other commenters) supposed to have extra strong bottom connection, which is why it has to deviate from the standard. The normal 1xN pieces have the same number of connections on the top and bottom, so they use an underside that allows for good grip. The 1x2 and 2x3 jumpers have (about) half as much connections on the top, so they can get away with a bottom that sacrifices connection strength for more connection options. And tiles have no connections on the top, so their bottom connections can get away with contacting studs in half as many points as usual. (Or as you pointed out, that actually makes them easier to remove.)

[@odnetnin4720]

Bean counters, go back to the bean counters. Yes, maybe usability is increased. But by adding holes, fluting edges…removes plastic. Added up, this will save a ton of money.

[@bricksculpt]

I don't think so I think it's for QC or clutch power

[@theevilcottonball]

Lego should just use non-filled studs everywhere. This opens up a smaller lego (similar to what Lego is to Duplo), the middle connection would work with the existing plate design without changing the bottom, and the empty studs can hold bars.

[@bricksculpt]

I agree video coming soon!!!

[@Jim_Jam]

Another cool thing about the old version of the round tile, that x fits on the underside of a 1x1. Not sure if it's legal though.

[@bricksculpt]

I didn't know that! Thanks

[@hotgluegunguy]

The inverted 2x2 slope (3660) is an outlier with a flat bottom pin. Very old 1x2 plates had this as well. What's really weird is that a version with a round bottom pin has been made and it appears to have been used alongside the flat pin version for some time now.

[@cooltaylor1015]

When Samsonite started distributing Lego sets in the US, they received a huge stockpile of parts that, in Europe, were considered second run or made with obsolete CA plastic. Samsonite eventually got their own production facilities, but used elements from this stockpile for well over a decade. CA parts manufactured in the late 50s appeared in Samsonite Lego sets as late as the mid 1970s

[@NooceneSounds]

the round tile with the x on the bottom can also fit a 1x1 square plate or brick! mildly interesting.

[@bricksculpt]

I didn't know that, super cool!

[@NooceneSounds]

I have yet to use it in a build, but it feels very satisfying to do :)

[@SpiritedSpy]

If it's not for the new connection type, or something to put less strain on connecting/disconnecting pieces, my thinking is that the hole in the bottom is an extremely minor cost cutting decision, I don't have numbers or any knowledge in this type of stuff, I just struggle to think of anything else it could be.

[@bricksculpt]

I think it's a stress thing, seems unlikely to be cist saving, much harder to mold.

[@xyoxus]

0:57 probably to have a more consistent wall size throughout the whole piece. Better for the moulding process.

[@bricksculpt]

You could be right

[@ItsJustRival]

If my memory is correct, there are some old transparent yellow 1x4 bricks that have infinite connections on the bottom (same might apply to modern 1x2 transparent bricks)

[@curtisleblanc5897]

" Blocked. Blocked. Blocked. You're all blocked. None of you are free of sin. " \- Jersey Mike's Subs

[@JLikesStarWars]

I’m pretty sure the groove on jumpers is a known fact that it’s for brick separators

[@pinioncorp]

7:12 1×1 Brick or plate, upside down onto the X. Probably illegal but it totally works

[@Hecatolite_]

The × on the underside of the 2×2 round plate can fit into the underside of a 1×1 square brick(or tile, or plate) Not sure how legal it is though.

[@bricksculpt]

I didn't know that!

[@malolte564]

On the older 2x2 round tile you can connect a 1x1 brick with the female side to the x at the bottom. Dont know if it is legal but it works

[@jbrecken]

You could use the bottoms of old and new round tiles to play tic-tac-toe.

[@jasonwinterboer5232]

0:54 Efficiency of material cost. 3% cheaper is small but real.

[@jakeraphael8838]

On the round tiles part i thought for a second that the X in the middle would be able to connect into an axle connector, and honestly now i'm curious if this is possible

[@bricksculpt]

I don't think it will but try it for me please.

[@alexandratsankova5825]

technically axles have "infinite" attatchment points

[@hades392able]

With the last one, the new model adds more plastic and takes away connection points, that's really strange, i have no clue why they would do that. Is there anything that fits in the little slot between the inner wall and the little tabs by the middle studs?

[@gangstagarf]

in theory the new one is worse at 8:50, as now you do not have three different 'middle' bottom areas to place a hollow stud onto

[@L1nxdr1nx]

Omg a video that features me!?!?

[@bricksculpt]

Is your name Bottoms?

[@TheGW923]

A LEGO Bottoms video and no mention of Emmet? 🤔

[@gordonwerner]

I’m confused as to what the benefit would be to have the 1x plates have a bottom like the 1x3 double jumper

[@bricksculpt]

More connection points.

[@gordonwerner]

⁠@@bricksculptahh .. my bad eyes thought that there were only 3 positions under the 1x3 jumper, when there are actually 5

[@Machinehead8]

Let’s talk about bottoms.😮 The evolution of Lego.😔

[@bricksculpt]

Lmfao

[@l3varnu]

I'm pretty sure 1x2 bricks in translucent colors do not have the middle post

[@bricksculpt]

That's correct

[@Killercrocrd]

I am as confused as you are on the last one😂

[@MetaHydra-gj6ms]

How many brick separators do you have?

[@bricksculpt]

I don't know I loose them all the time maybe 6 or 7

[@karatemaster1144]

Love the icon, is it new?

[@bred4ev3r]

Yes since a few days ago.

[@bricksculpt]

Yes fan made!

[@LieseFury]

confirming that october is just pride month 2

[@hassandagreat1753]

1x2 jumper has 4 variation

[@bricksculpt]

Please inform which am I missing?

[@cooltaylor1015]

Did 1×2 plate bottom variants without mentioning tubeless or pin bottoms? Shame.

[@StarHorder]

heheheheheheheheheheheh

[@Noirelisk]

hi

[@bricksculpt]

Hi

[@springsteen4ever]

You called?

[@blendervendor2220]

🤨

[@alan3998]

i love bottoms

[@1_1bman]

same

[@bricksculpt]

Same