Lexus GX470 Front Brake Upgrade

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
In this video we perform a front brake upgrade to a Lexus GX470. The upgrade is using calipers and rotors from either a Lexus GX460 or Toyota 5th Gen 4runner. When Toyota/Lexus made the GX460 and 5th Gen 4runner, they used a caliper that would accept a rotor with a larger thickness. The increased size of the rotor allows for better heat dissipation and thus less brake fade.
*TORQUE VALUES*
ft-lbf = Foot Pounds Force
*Brake Caliper Bolts - 91 ft-lbf
*Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbf
*PARTS*
*Brake Caliper Driver Side #47750-60300
*Brake Caliper Passenger Side #47730-60300
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*Brake Pad Set #04465-60320
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*Anti-Squeal Shim Kit #04945-60090
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*Anti-Rattle Springs #04947-35050 (1 minimum, 2 sets would be better)
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*Brake Rotors #43512-60191 (Need 2)
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*Stop Tech Braided Steel Brake Lines #950.44007
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*Dot 3 Brake Fluid
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*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
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*6 Ton Jack Stands - (To securely support vehicle)
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*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock (This is just one. I recommend buying two) amzn.to/3lNC3MG
*Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set - (To tighten and loosen flare nut fittings)
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*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (10mm from this set used for brake lines)
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
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*1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set - (Great set with all the common sizes)
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*Ball Pein Hammer - (Used in conjunction with pry bar to remove and install brake line clips) amzn.to/2W5eHV5
*Dead Blow Hammer - (Used to remove brake rotors)
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*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun - (Used to remove lug nuts and brake caliper bolts)
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Extended Reach Ratchet - (Used to snug up caliper bolts)
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*Offset Box End Wrench Set - (Used a 10mm from this set to bleed the brakes)
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*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (Used to assist brake pad pin insertion)
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*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
- (Used to tighten lug nuts)
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
- (Used to tighten caliper bolts)
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*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (Used small straight one from this kit to assist removing vacuum cap from brake line) amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (Used ones from this kit to remove and reinstall brake line clips) amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) amzn.to/2m89y0D
*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) amzn.to/2ky8Qt8
*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray Set (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) amzn.to/3l5KnHg
*Vacuum Cap Kit - (Used a 7/32 from this kit to put onto the flared brake line end to stop the flow of brake fluid) amzn.to/31hXY2G
*Brite-Mark Medium Tip Paint Marker, Orange - (Used to mark metal brake lines)
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*Brake Cleaner - (Used to clean brake dust, hub face and rotors)
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*Mini Grease Gun - (Used to grease caliper bolts)
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*Red Devil All Purpose Grease - (Grease I use in the mini grease gun)
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*Anti-Sieze - (Used to apply onto the hub face so the rotor is less likely to get stuck)
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*Brake Caliper Grease - (Used to lubricate brake pad pins)
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*Fender Protector - (Used to protect fenders when working on your rig)
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@coreysolender4201]

Thanks for the tutorial. Never even thought of touching my brakes. Now, I have all the parts on order and will follow your instructions! Much appreciated.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Corey. Good luck with the job.

[@stephenbuerkle3020]

This is easily the best brake tutorial I've ever watched. Thanks for the detail the others almost always leave out.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment of our work, Stephen. We appreciate it and you're very welcome!

[@barabhas]

Thank you for the Gx470 DIY videos. I'm getting parts ready to change my timing belt thanks to your video. Later on will be the brakes.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Good to hear you appreciate the GX470 videos we're making. Good luck with the timing belt job. Happy Wrenching!

[@scottperry5454]

Agree, I'm in the same boat. About to do timing belt and brakes

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@scottperry5454 Good luck with both jobs Scott. The brake job is pretty simple but the timing belt job is a lot more involved. Just take you time, label fasteners like we suggest in the video and you'll be fine. Happy Wrenching!

[@speedpirate2597]

One of the better auto-maintenance vids I’ve seen; thanks for being thorough and clear!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!

[@longhornsrock44]

Great video, I love the amount of detail you include and how you explain the process! Anyone can be good at something, but it takes a true master to explain the craft in a way that anyone can understand. I followed along as a 1 banana mechanic and was able to upgrade my brakes to the GX460 calipers with no issues. Thanks a lot!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it! I'm a DIYer just like you. Maybe I have a bit more experience turning wrenches than some people, but that's about it. I do think I have a knack of being able to explain things so people can understand it. That's something I didn't know I possessed until I started making videos with Sean. Anyway, you're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!

[@skjos96]

Another great video, I would like to add a few things because they were issues for me when replacing my calipers and bleeding the brakes: 1) I disassembled the two-part bracket that connects to the steering knuckle and let it hang to get more movement when removing the hardline from the caliper. Obviously, you didn't need to do this because you were replacing the lines. The FSM doesn't callout a specific torque for these bolts, but based on their type the small bracket-to-bracket bolt is 78in-lb and the larger bracket to steering knuckle bolt is 28ft-lb (FSM page SS-2). 2) When installing the hardline to the caliper, I had the steering knuckle bracket tab in place but without the bolt installed. I then installed the hardline finger tight, then installed the bracket bolt complete, then full tightened the hardline to 132in-lb (FSM page BR-42). I did this to put as little stress on the hardline as possible. 3) *Very important*, make sure your battery is charged before bleeding, running the brake pump will drain the battery fast. When the charge gets too low the pump will stop working and every single light on your dash will start blinking like crazy. 4) I bled my brakes until they ran clear with no bubbles and then tightened the bleeder valve (96in-lb, FSM page BR-3). However, after letting them sit a little while, air started to bubble into the vinyl tube from the bleeder valve. This was concerning, but after some thought I don't believe it is an issue. The seal between the caliper and bleeder is a solid cone on the bleeder valve seated into a recess on the caliper. The bubbles I was seeing were being pulled in through the bleeder valve treads by a syphon that was created by routing my vinyl line up 8 inches and then down 30 inches into my fluid container on the floor. I routed my vinyl line upwards so the air escaping the caliper during the bleeding process floats up the tube away from the bleeder valve, but going up and then down will create a syphon. If I just routed the vinyl tube straight out from the bleeder, like you did and like shown on FSM page BR-3, I'm sure no bubbles would have appeared. Again, the threads do not seal the caliper, the bleeder valve cone does, so not really an issue. When I broke the syphon by clearing all the fluid being pulled downwards the bubbling stopped. 5) I rubber-banded some blue shop towels under my caliper hardline connection to catch the escaping fluid while I reconnected the line, I also rubber-banded some blue shop towels under the bleeder valve during the bleeder process. By catching the fluid before it runs down the caliper body, it makes it easier to determine if you have any leaks after making those connections. Anal retentive... yes, and probably why it takes me forever to get things done. 6) My FSM page BR-43 shows 82ft-lb for the lug nut torque, not 85ft-lb. Either torque is fine, just noting that it was different.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the added experience, we appreciate it! - Sean

[@8oliverraymond]

Pro tip for stubborn rotors. As seen @13.45 there are 2 threaded holes in the rotor hat. Thread bolts into those holes and it will press the rotor off the hub.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tip. The same can be done for rear drums. It's a M8 x 1.25 Bolt thread.

[@greenscobie86]

Good tip, just had to do that while changing out the crusty front rotors on my GX470.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@greenscobie86 Glad it helped you out.

[@rich1958]

First time watching your vids. I worked as a mechanic when I was younger and really appreciate how thorough your steps were. Awesome!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment Rich. We appreciate it!

[@radius8283]

Thanks for sharing. Last July I Did the big brake upgrade and stainless steel lines in my 05 SR5 V8 and definitely a huge difference in braking. Next project will be the rears. I did use all Toyota originals after so many eBay aftermarket parts that doesn’t last long I got tired of using non Toyota parts. I only have 1000 miles right now so let’s see how it goes.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanh also reported his braking is much better after the upgrade. He's definitely happy with the result. And yes, you can't go wrong with Toyota Parts but you can quite often go wrong with aftermarket.

[@gabrieltobar9472]

Hello, Did you have to send the calipers from the GX460 to a machine shop in order for a proper fit on the SR5 V8? I Have an 02 SR5 and im planning on doing this upgrade myself. I watched another video and saw that they needed to remove approximately 3mm from the tab. Can you confirm? They used 2015 Toyotta 4runner Part numbers.

[@radius8283]

@@gabrieltobar9472 No I did not have to send it to a machine shop as the 5th Gen 4runner calipers are a direct fit to my 4th gen. I have read as well, only 2010 to 2012 4runner would fit in the 4th gens (2003 to 2009).

[@aldorow1757]

At first I thought why so long of a video, 33 minutes. Then I saw why. You go into detail that so many people just gloss over. If someone watches and follows the video they will have no issues and have a job done right. Even if they are just R&R the existing calipers this video goes into the details. This is very good video. I have replaced calipers three times in the 150,000 miles on my GX470 due to sticking pistons. Now it is a process, take the calipers back to O'Reillys for an exchange under the life time warranty. I don't like the continued maintenance but it gives me a chance to bleed the brakes and look closely at the suspension and braking system.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Al for the nice comment. With those lifetime warranties, you really need to factor how much your time is worth. Calipers aren't had to change, so I guess it's worth it to continue to replace them when they go bad. Happy Wrenching!

[@aldorow1757]

@@TimmyTheToolman One other problem besides the time which is a number of hours but the braking performance. Depending on the actual situation of a sticking caliper it can create quite a drag. I am deciding about the GX460 upgrade which is dependent on whether I keep the vehicle or go to a 460 used. Thanks again for the great videos.

[@waynespringer501]

If he ever does the rear as well I hope you'll include the part numbers here for those as well. Thanks for the video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure there is an upgrade for the rear, but anyways, you're welcome.

[@JesseGunzo]

2010-2014 4Runner 5th Gen. 2015 and up uses larger mounting bolts. I think it goes M12 to M14 mounting bolt sizes. 🤙🏾

[@vitpav777]

Hey. Awesome videos. Easy to understand instructions. Thank you. I have a question. You only did the fronts. Is there a reason? Would replacing the rear ones not be a big change? Or what was the reasoning. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know about an upgrade for the rear. This was just a job I decided to help my buddy Thanh with. Maybe there is an upgrade for the rear. Most of the braking is done by the fronts anyway, probably 75%.

[@vitpav777]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for a quick reply, it’s been a while. I didn’t watch all of your videos. Did he say how much the break upgrades help?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@vitpav777 Hey did say his braking improved.

[@scottcopeland6377]

Even better

[@mirwaisrahin3831]

Simply Thank you. I learned a few things...in the middle of doing brakes.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome.

[@MrCalifornia1234]

Good work. I’ve had good luck with ceramic break pads for my Tundra. Supposed to last longer, break quicker, and has less break dust.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've had good luck with ceramic pads too. I'm running them on my 2000 4runner and they have lasted a very long time. My estimation is I have 100,000 miles on those pads and there's still tons of life left to them. I do however do mostly highway miles and I know how to employ engine braking to lessen the need to ride the brakes on mountain descents.

[@schadlarry]

I was wondering how you were going to keep this channel going. Looks like I will have to sell my first gen Tacoma and get a Lexus and maybe get some free KZbin work done. Also the 3rd gen 4 runners and 1st gen Tacomas will outlive us. Hope you have it in you will to keep this channel going for the grandkids.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There's still things to do on 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas, but we've definitely covered a ton of topics for them. When we started this channel, we didn't have any idea where we would take it. We just liked making videos to help people out. As time went on, we thought it would be good to expand to different model SUVs and Trucks to challenge ourselves and to expand our audience. We're basically open to working on any Toyota / Lexus SUV or truck. I guess a RAV 4 is considered a SUV but I doubt will be turning wrenches on that model. We like the rigs that can be 4wheeled and modified. We've made videos for 5th Gen 4runners, LX470s, GX470s, and FJ80 Land Cruisers. When we made that video for the timing belt job on the GX470 that has the 4.7 LIter V8, that allowed us to cross over to lots of models because that engine was used in Toyota Sequoias, Toyota Tundras, Toyota 4th Gen 4Runners, Toyota 100 Series Land Cruisers and Lexus LX470s. I'm much older than Sean, over 20 years, but I think I'll be doing it for quite some time because I enjoy the challenge and I enjoy helping people out. I would like to see our channel grow bigger and I think the quality of the videos we put out merits it. I don't know what the secret sauce is to get people to subscribe to our channel. To pat ourselves on the back, not many channels do what we do. We make super detailed videos that a beginner could follow to maintain, repair or modify their rig. We also thoroughly document huge jobs like engine swaps. Other channels do engine swaps but they don't do it like we do showing step by step how to pull it off. It's more like a highlight reel that doesn't really show people how to do it. The reason why I think other automotive channels don't show the detail we show is because it's a ton of work to fully document a job like that. We're willing to spend the time to film and edit big projects while most others aren't. We actually have another engine swap project coming in October. It will be a 3.0 Liter to 3.4 Liter Swap for a 2nd Gen 4runner. Even though we slowed our roll on 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma content, there's still going to be videos made for those models. Just when you think you've tapped out on ideas for these rigs, other opportunities do present themselves like the Dual Transfer Case project Sean is working on with his friend Chris. Part 2 of that series will be out pretty soon. So Larry, stick with us. We've got lots more cool stuff coming your way. Happy Wrenching!

[@hughkoontz2166]

There's always the Toyota MR2 you can add videos on. Just picked up one a month ago as a fun ride. Will keep the 02 Tacoma for my daily driver.

[@schadlarry]

@@TimmyTheToolman Don't worry I'm a subscriber to my last keystroke. Your videos are great, covering every step, torque specs, part numbers, and pitfalls you might encounter. I've done the valve cover gaskets, timing belt and would have done the clutch but I'm recovering from a shoulder surgery that's taking forever to heal.. Found a good (reviewed) mechanic who only charged $420 for the labor. Anyway look forward to your next video. They are quite entertaining and I even watch on cars/jobs I will never have or do.

[@cutthroat2273]

wish you lived in my neighborhood, you'd have a lifetime customer

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, we don't really have customers but rather people we help so we can make DIY videos to share on our channel. We don't charge people for our help. If they buy us a meal and beers afterwards, that's good enough.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

You can put dot 4 in these systems if you wanted higher degree protection that is what I have in all 4 of my 3rd gen 4runners dot 4 is compatible with dot 3 its just a higher temp

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Dot 4 is a little overkill and more expensive for these type of vehicles. You can definitely use it no doubt. But dot 4 is better for vehicles that go on the track and do some heavy braking.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman very true but in last few year Prestone dot 4 had become around the same price if not a dollar or so more for a 32 Oz bottle and when you do a ton of offroading and 4 wheeling even Crawling you tend to use your brakes a ton... I use it in my rigs gives me peace of mine like Checking all fluids after every 4x4 trip I do agree With you though Timmy some great valid points

[@Threedaysextension]

Superb instructional video! I'm going to upgrade mine one of these days

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

The orange calipers look a ton like the 3rd gen 4runner calipers while they were laying on the table

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, they're all Toyota calipers so I reckon there will be some similarities.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman true dat

[@kflo1219]

Tim, on the squeal indicator I know on my Tundra and other friends Tundras it was on the inside in all cases and the OUTSIDE pad actually wore down BEFORE the inside one causing damage to disc before the indicator let us know. Luckily mine did it on way home from work and I parked it till I swapped pads. Thought I would pass that along!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, that's good to know. These days, most people don't try to reuse the rotors by having a shop resurface them on a brake lathe and they just buy new rotors when it's time to replace the pads. I however do think it's worth trying to resurface the rotors if they are OEM and they still have the minimum thickness required for a shop to resurface them for you.

[@TFGX613]

thanks for the video. I've been following you for awhile now and glad to see some GX content. Im getting ready to do this upgrade myself and there are not a lot of good tutorials for it so this helped me a lot

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Antonio. Good luck with the upgrade. We will be making more content for the GX so stay tuned.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Some rotors don't have a film on them to prevent rust always read the information that comes with the rotors from the manufacturer you purchase them from @13:05

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, cleaning with some brake cleaner isn't going to hurt anything so it will save you some reading time.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman on some rotors if they dont have protection that needs to be cleaned and you clean them with brake clean it actually causes the rotor to not Mary with the pads and causes immediate squealing for ceramic pads... for example power stop brand rotors don't have protectant on them and they recommend not to clean the rotors with brake clean... I did that anyways and when I installed ceramic pads they squealed all the way to the day I replaced them... all I'm saying is some rotors don't need cleaning always best to find out what that company recommends for there product just trying to help is all

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@AntonioClaudioMichael That doesn't make any sense. Brake cleaner dries with no residue. What if you got grease on your rotors when doing the brake job? What do you clean the grease and dirt off with then?

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman I know it dont make sense I have never had ceramic pads that didn't squeal no matter the brand or the rotor slotted not slotted drilled and slotted or even smooth all im doing is relaying information some company's say don't use brake clean on there rotors what so ever I'm not saying your wrong I'm not saying I'm right I'm saying the facts that I know about certin companies its just information to help people take the information how ever you like

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman you can put rotors on without getting grease on them that would be change your gloves for every step of the brake job... whole point of posting information is so others can read it and be more aware of it if they run into these things some rotors have a more natural rust inhibitors on them which don't need to be cleaned off first some have a rust inhibitors that requires them to be cleaned with brake clean first before install... as an example coated brake rotors you don't clean with brake clean you clean them with soap and water to get rid of oil and grease they have a protection on them to help stop rust and corrosion that happened in states that have a lot of snow on them as well ad protect them from salted roads to last longer were rotors that have a corrosion inhibitors on them are cleaned with brake clean and they are there to protect the rotors from rusting while in storage depends on the brand even the level of rotor for that brand depends on what they are coated in brake clean isn't the only thing you can use to take grease off with... that's why I stated some companies say don't use brake clean and there information will state what should be used... I get it sounds odd

[@lukestoyz]

I believe the same brakes on the 5th gen 4Runner also works on the FJ Cruisers as an upgrade.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you get confirmation that this is true, come back and let us know. Thanks.

[@idezone]

Thanks for the instruction. Very satisfisfied with the upgrade.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Thanks for commenting.

[@mikejohnson9118]

Bigger Rotor also gives you more "Anti-Torque". Which gives you more stopping power!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to know.

[@stereolababy]

bigger brakes help you stop better? who would have guessed

[@theblkfly]

What an awesome video!! This explained everything to me that I needed to know. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment, Joe. It's great to know you found our video helpful. You're very welcome!

[@mikegyro]

Awesome video! Thank you for sharing.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Mike. We're happy you like it. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@lukeneave]

You should put LC Prado 120 in heading that’s what they are here in aus might draw some viewers from aus

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tip. We actually have a fair amount of Aussies who watch our stuff. I'll put a tag for the LC Prado 120.

[@lukeneave]

@@TimmyTheToolman only different prados 120 are 1kd and petrol v6

[@jamram9924]

I install double anti rattle clips (top and bottom) on all Toyota vehicles that I service. It’s just odd that engineers only use one per caliper…🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I agree that it's odd they don't come with 2 anti-rattle springs per caliper. It just makes sense to have it that way. Thanks for the comment.

[@tbgtbg6311]

Wouldn't you need to change ALL the brake lines to Stainless Steel? Otherwise, the remaining non SS brake lines will then swell / expand, and leave you in the same situation?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, you don't need to change all of them to stainless steel. Replacing some of them will still have a positive affect. Would it be better if all of rubber lines were swapped out? Yes, it would.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Good video timmy nice upgrade 👌

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Antonio.

[@Carlos-ov1hg]

This is a fantastic mod, Timmy. Thanks for doing it and documenting it so well!! Do you know if the rear GX460 calipers are a direct replacement for the GX470 rears, too?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Carlos. I don't know if you can swap the rears as well.

[@thetruth8095]

The rear calipers for the GX470 and GX460 are identical, same part.

[@Carlos-ov1hg]

That's fantastic,@@thetruth8095. Thank you very much!

[@thetruth8095]

@@Carlos-ov1hg You’re welcome. Here’s more info. According to the Lexus Parts Website the rear caliper fits the following vehicles. Lexus GX 460 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 Lexus GX 460 Base 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023 Lexus GX 460 Luxury 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023 Lexus GX 460 Premium 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2020 Lexus GX 470 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 Lexus GX 470 Gold 2004

[@MartinM04]

Y grease and not loctite on the caliper bolts? Oem Toyota bolts usually have red loctite on them

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You don't need loctite on caliper bolts if you properly torque them to spec. If you want a real hard time to get bolts or nuts off in the future, use Red Loctite. I never use it. The most I use is Blue 242 Loctite. There might be an application where red should be used, but for most automotive applications, red is way overkill.

[@castlekingside8653]

Thank you for this video!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You are so welcome! - Sean

[@Chris-uu3cp]

Great video, thanks for sharing! You don’t happen to sell those “KZbin certified mechanic” signs do ya? 😃

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Those are sold on eBay.

[@TC-en7vi]

Thank you!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome!

[@Dirty-D]

Great video.

[@C6BlueDevil]

I have a 460. Was just curious if techstream is required to do a job like this. I don't want any dash lights to come on when I replace my sticking caliper. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, the Tech Stream program isn't necessary for a job like this provided you don't make a mistake and let a bunch of brake fluid drain out and you empty your hydraulic brake booster.

[@xnova5]

make sure to have a plan to plug the brake line so the fluid doesn't leak out. the best way to go about it is to leave the brake hose for last, since the metal hose will keep leaking until its real tight.

[@msbeauford1]

Would this work on a 2005 Land Cruiser. I am interested in a modest upgrade to my front brakes. Enjoy all your videos. Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know if this would work for the Land Cruiser.

[@dongarofano7746]

Will your parts list work for a 2005 GX470? I did not see/hear the year of the GX470 in this video. Does it even matter what the year is? Great video, I'm getting ready to do both the front and rears. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Don

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanh's GX470 is a 2008 but I don't think the year matters. I'm pretty sure all the GXs have the same brakes.

[@dongarofano7746]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks D

[@dongarofano7746]

Tim, have you seen/heard of any quantitative comparative responses from people who did the "upgrade" to their GX470 to what they had before?I'm on the fence, as to, weather to go the less expensive route or spend the $500-$600 and upgrade now? I'm thinking I may resurface the rotors, if I can, pads and possibly replace the brake lines because my rig pulls to the right when I have to brake "hard". What do you suggest? Thanks. D

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@dongarofano7746 Other than Thanh saying his braking has improved, I don't have anything else to go by. You might try asking this question on a GX Facebook page. There's several you can join and then ask your question to see what people say.

[@candidcapture]

Dem nice bikes hanging in there.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I was a cyclist well before being a Toyota guy. I have unloaded several bikes recently though. It was time since I barely rode some of them.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

How did he paint the calipers abd what paint did he use that came out superb timmy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Just some high temp caliper paint. It’s pretty common

[@thetruth8095]

This is a great video. Any idea what the air/squishing noise is when the brake pedal is pushed down? I have the same issue.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure about the noise you are experiencing. It might be the hydraulic brake booster.

[@thetruth8095]

@@TimmyTheToolman That is what I am thinking too, but I hope it is not due to the complexity of the repair. Thank you for responding.

[@thetruth8095]

@@TimmyTheToolmanI just completed the upgrade and went for a test drive. It seems like the noise is significantly diminished but it is still slightly there. Do you think it could just be air bubbles somewhere in the system since it has decreased after bleeding?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@thetruth8095 That would be a logical assumption. Do you have the Tech Stream program so you can acuate the brake booster to bleed it?

[@thetruth8095]

@@TimmyTheToolman I do not have Techstream, but if you recommend it, I will look into purchasing it.

[@gabrieltobar9472]

@timmythetoolman Did you have to trim any metal from the caliper tabs where it gets mounted? I will be doing this upgrade on my 2002 Tundra. Every video i watched talks about cutting the tabs down by 3.5mm.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't remember, but everything we did was documented in the video. If you didn't see us do it or talk about it, it wasn't necessary for the job.

[@gabrieltobar9472]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for the quick reply. I think there may be a difference between Toyota and Lexus. Im not sure. When I get the calipers in I will try a fit test before I send anything to the machinist. I will keep you updated.

[@gbeairsto]

NIce work Tim. Did you torque down the caliper bolts on the passenger side?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, we did. That was the side we filmed. 91 foot pounds.

[@MichaelHellmann13]

I followed this video to a T and everything works great! I was catching that burning smell you get after installing new brake pads while they are curing. It’s been about a month and I still catch that smell every once in a while. Any idea what it could be? Brake pads seem to be wearing normally, Brake fluid level is normal.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Not sure. If everything was installed correctly, you shouldn't be smelling brake pads burning unless you were riding your brakes down a mountain descent. It could be caliper pistons that are sticking and not fully retracting.

[@streetK4]

i wish i've watched your video bofore the work. so I did not cap the brake line like u did and i belive i lost too much fluid because of that, I've bled the brakes multiple times but the brake pedal is still soft and initial pedal travel is long but brakes work fine i just hate that the pedal needs to go that much lower to for the brakes to engage. what would you recommend to bleed the system correctly. i did use tech stream and bled it multiple times but can't really get that one last bubble out

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hmmm, if you used tech stream and bled the system according to the factory service manual, I don't know what else you could do.

[@NYPATRIOTBX]

Hey Timmy, I recently did the upgraded 13WL calipers from the 05 and up Tundra on my 02 sequoia, which required me to trim the backing plate. How is it that the LX470 calipers accommodate the larger rotors like the 13WL calipers, without trimming the backing plates ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It’s a different model with a larger backing plate so after the mod on this platform, there is no cutting needed, but with the tundra brake upgrade on a third forerunner, the backing plate is much smaller and therefore needs to be trimmed a little. - Sean

[@NYPATRIOTBX]

@@TimmyTheToolman Much appreciated, I was wondering if there was a physical difference to the caliper itself. Thank you for the fast reply.

[@Twistedoff2]

Great video! I'm loking to do this upgrade to my 2005 4Runner Sport. Have you looked at the back breaks and thought about doing the same thing? Thx

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know if there's a rear brake upgrade for these rigs that's relatively plug and plug like this upgrade is.

[@Twistedoff2]

@@TimmyTheToolman I think upgrading the fronts and changing the rotor and pads in the rear would probably be good. Thanks again!

[@Orlando-wn4uc]

I just attempted to do this on my GX and even with the flare nut wrenches stripped the hard line coming out of the caliper! Any chance someone can help find the part number? I definitely recommend going slow when removing the brake lines.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I doubt you're going to find that kind of help on our channel. A GX470 Facebook group would be better place to ask, or maybe just go to your local dealer and order it.

[@user-kv9ln4py6u]

I see there's are two types Mounting Hole, there is the 12 mount hole and the 14 mounting hole?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not exactly sure what you're asking me. Can you be a little more descriptive? We shot this video a while ago and I don't remember everything about it.

[@donaldmellon9439]

Hello Timmy can the back calipers and rotors be upgraded the same way

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know of a rear upgrade for the GX470.

[@stuartarneaud218]

Great job thank

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Stuart!

[@mikestevenson1819]

Great info 👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Mike!

[@ramtek2702]

You do good work. I enjoy watching you. There are so many jerks on KZbin. BTW, I don't agree with your assessment of the improvements gained from the braided brake line. I do think the braid provides a little more protection from external damage but the hydraulic pressure is hundreds of PSI and the flexible braid won't provide any measurable resistance to that much pressure.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like our channel. What I said about steel braided lines delivering better fluid pressure is one of the sales points of that product. Is that claim 100% true? I don't know. I'm just repeating the claimed benefit of steel braided lines and it seems to make sense to me. If it's false, the steel braided line industry sure has fooled a lot of people to buy their product and they're masters at marketing. Upgrading to steel braided lines is a very common mod people do and I assume will continue to do for a long time to come.

[@ramtek2702]

@@TimmyTheToolman It is a popular upgrade bur I think it's all visual. I doubt most people know that right below the steel braid is the same rubber hose. Braided hoses are even less valuable on water hoses on sinks & toilets where external damage would be very rare. I have no problem believing that the manufacturers know full well they are profiting from a myth. It's called good marketing.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@ramtek2702 Yeah, I don't doubt that you could be 100% right. Lots of money spent just to have cool looking brake lines. I did read that steel braided lines have a teflon core that better resists expansion and thus better delivery of the fluid pressure.

[@starvinDJ]

awe yeah!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You Know!

[@w_dub_wilberforcejr]

good stuff bro!! is this mod just for the front?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you approve Wilton. Yes, just for the front.

[@toyotatundra0455]

Is there a trick to prevent the brake lines from leaking when the brake lines are disconnected from the calipers. Mainly in Toyota rear brake calipers. Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes there is. I slide a 7/32 vacuum cap over the flared tubing end to stop the flow of fluid. The cap slides over only the tubing, not the fitting. It works great. I've had lines disconnected for weeks and no loss of fluid.

[@jvincentdreier7706]

Hey Timmie, I just got done doing this. Had one issue at the end though. The brake shield on the 470 vs the 460 is slightly different. When I got done installing the 460 rotor on the 470, there was some slight contact in the inner side of the rotor on the shield. Did you have this problem as well? Can I simply bend the 470 shield to accept the new rotor? Or so I need to order new 460 shields to get around this problem? Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We didn't have that issue. Try bending it first. If that doesn't work, trim it with a pair of sheet metal cutters or use a dremel tool with a metal cutting disk.

[@jvincentdreier7706]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the response. I'll look into it. Seems like the contact area is central, closest to the hub. But I'll rip off the brakes and see what I can do. Appreciate your videos

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@jvincentdreier7706 The dust shield could be contacting the inside diameter of the rotor and you just have trim a little of the dust shield off and you'll be good to go.

[@DrNbiegerDO]

Hello, thank you for the tutorial! Looking into doing this same upgrade on my 2005 GX470. What about replacing the rear calipers too? I heard that you cant upgrade the rear rotors due to the 470 axel being 8" and the 460 being 8.2" but would there be a benefit to upgrading the 470 rear caliper with a 460 rear caliper? Also, what years of the 460 and 4runner are the upgraded compatible parts for the 470?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know the answer to your questions about upgrading the rear brakes. This is something we have not attempted. I also don't know of any other parts form a 460 or 5th Gen 4runner that are compatible with the 470 and would be considered an upgrade.

[@DrNbiegerDO]

Sorry, let me clarify my last question. In terms of the front rotors and calipers. Do all years of the gx460 and 5th gen 4Runner fit the gx470 or is it only a certain year range like 2010-2015?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@DrNbiegerDO I believe it's all the years, but I'm not 100% sure.

[@mirzamohammadbeg1928]

Just subscribed your channel. 😊

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Welcome to the Timmy the Toolman train. All aboard!!

[@genericsec]

Would you recommend the Stoptech stainless ones you installed or ones designed for a lifted GX470? (Like Metaltech or Apache?)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Front brake lines, even with a lift will be stock length. It's the lines in the rear that need to be longer due to the droop of the rear axle. You could use the Stoptech ones if you want.

[@genericsec]

@@TimmyTheToolman great, thank you sir for the heads up and clarification. Stoptech has a rear brake line kit too, but I’m assuming it’s the same length as stock? I saw Metal Tech has 17inch and Apache has 20inch rears, but not sure I need that with just a 3 inch lift. (Btw, just ordered most of these parts, plus near rear parts to do a nearly complete brake refresh and partial upgrade)

[@slowazzes1972]

I broke the hardline that goes to the caliber wtf do I do now?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You could replace the entire rubber line and hardline with a steak braided line. It would go straight to the caliper. - Sean

[@percyjackson2800]

Nice vid. My 06 gx behaves as if the rotors are warped. As the brake is applied it feels as if it grabs and let’s go, grabs and let’s go… until it comes to a full stop. It only does it at low speeds with no vibration on pedal, wheel, frame, it doesn’t pull or anything. The brakes are also very sensitive one moment you are braking fine then it grabs too much and it dips. Try to ease up a bit and it just wants to keep rolling. It’s a matter of mm of brake pedal travel. Strange and annoying. Any ideas?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The grab and let go is a pulsing the ABS system can do but I don't know if that's what's happening when you're braking at lower speeds. It might be your hydraulic brake booster is having issues. We did a video on replacing the brake booster on Thanh's GX470. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e361p616ZcqjaaM

[@xnova5]

experienced the same issue with my truck. was pretty bad when i first got it, even after i had my front rotors resurfaced. a few months back i got new brakes and rotors on the rear and soon ill install GX460 brakes and rotors. i hope it fixes the issue. im also sure its not ABS as i know exactly the noise and feel the GX makes when ABS kicks in. when i have researched this it points to warped rotors. if i remember ill be sure to update in a few weeks.

[@xnova5]

UPDATE: i upgraded my pads, rotors, calipers and lines to stop tech brand. and i am happy to report that all of the weird brake shuddering, vibration or what ever the hell i had is now gone. my trucks brakes feel like a sports car with so much control and confidence.

[@codybrooks6486]

Great video will be using it soon. How did he seat his new pads? I've heard 10 or so hard stops from about 55mph and then drive around 15 or so minutes with light to no breaking to allow the pads to cool. Any tips or insight if that's true? Thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanh didn't do any specific pad seating method. He just started driving it. I've heard of people doing this as well but I personally have never done a "Bedding In" procedure either. If you do a search online you'll find info on bedding in procedures. Glad you like the video. Good luck with the job. Hope it goes smooth for you.

[@codybrooks6486]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you good sir and happy new year to you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@codybrooks6486 You're welcome.

[@davidlesley8884]

@@TimmyTheToolman that's called burnishing. You get up to 50,let off accelerator, then light brake apply until fully stopped , then let off brake and drive one mile, that mile drive cools the brakes, then get to 50mph again and repeat brake application until stopped. You should do this a total of 4 to 6 times. Make sure that you come to complete stop position each time. I don't recommend heavy braking for at least 50 miles.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@davidlesley8884 The question is, does the procedure you outlined really make a difference in future braking performance? I'm pretty sure no shop in existence gives their customers this procedure when the customer picks up their vehicle after a brake job. I've never heard the term "burnishing". I've only heard the process referred to as the the "bedding in" procedure. Learn something new everyday.

[@PhildoBaggins]

No antiseize on brake hard-line? Is that to prevent contamination of the brake fluid?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Anti-seize is not needed on the brake line threads. Could you put some on? I suppose you could. Maybe just a very light amount.

[@theoravelo136]

Anybody did this upgrade but with performance rotors and pads like the EBC Stage 5 kit? I’m thinking of doing that combo.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure if you'll get the answer you're looking for here. Might have to ask this question on a GX Facebook page or on a Lexus forum.

[@theoravelo136]

@@TimmyTheToolman I will try there. Thanks Mr Toolman. :)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@theoravelo136 You're welcome.

[@danbraden4401]

Well was the upgrade worth it?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes. Thanh liked the upgrade.

[@mirzamohammadbeg1928]

👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the thumbs up.

[@moosleem3621]

Just watched the whole video. My friend sold me 2004 GX470 a month ago and yesterday shit happened... Driver side rear brake line was leaked and I lost brake. I search on ebay some brake stuffs like brake pads, calipers, line kit's, rotors... Here I'm thinking about fix it or sell it? A car is clean title and one owner. 114000 on the dash... If fix it, that's gonna be 5-10k. worth it or not I don't know. Never had GX470 before

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What you said makes no sense. 5-10k in brake parts?

[@moosleem3621]

@@TimmyTheToolman I meant shock absorbers, all brake work, tires and rims and labor fee

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@moosleem3621 That still seems very expensive. Tires are over 1k though. What's the breakdown of the cost for each thing and the cost for labor.

[@jimskatr103]

is this the same upgrade for a first gen sequoia?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Don't know. I haven't worked on a Sequoia yet.

[@van_mod1]

No pad bedding? Hmmmm.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, I know, imagine the horror of not doing something that no new vehicle gets coming off the lot and somehow all these vehicles can stop just fine when they need to. I know, crazy talk, but it happens. It also happens for every person who pays for a brake job at a shop. I guarantee the shop mechanics aren't driving around bedding the brakes in for the customers, and lo and behold, these people's vehicles have no problem stopping either. I honestly don't know how there isn't mayhem in the streets of every city with people crashing their vehicles due to not non-bedded in brake pads.

[@marcmags]

great video....Is that the same as 1st gen. sequioa, i have 06 toyota sequioa? thank you

[@001dman]

1st gen sequoia and tundra need the calipers machined to fit properly. the rotor spacing is off on the older spindle design.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@001dman Thanks for answering the question Dan. I didn't 100% know the answer.

[@001dman]

@@TimmyTheToolman no problem, lol. There’s a page on tundras about it. Guy sells the Calipers already machined for the tundra/sequoia (and technically 1st gen taco/4runner)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@001dman Cool, thanks for sharing this.

[@kevinrader3485]

@@001dman do you have the webpage handy. Tried looking but didn’t find anyone that already had them machined.

[@johnathonallread9519]

Will the back brakes on from the 460/4runner work as well?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That I don't know. Thanh didn't mention the ability to do a rear brake upgrade and I haven't done any research on it either.

[@sicbul]

Would that uprates possible for 2008 v6 4runner?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Don't know. Never tried.

[@nicksdroid63]

beware of the year 460 and 4runner brakes you use.. 10-14 will be fine. go any year above that and youre screwed

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Ok, good to know. What happens after 2014?

[@MrSeb523]

Would a GX460 brake caliper fit a 3rd gen 4 runner?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't think so because I've never heard of anyone doing it.

[@dtown026]

Do you know if the rear brakes also can be upgraded to GX460/5th Gen 4R rotors and calipers?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know. The upgrade we know about is just for the front.

[@Wanyekerr]

What year is this gx

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Don't remember the year. It really shouldn't matter what year GX470 you have. They all have the same brake setup.

[@Wanyekerr]

@@TimmyTheToolman got just wondering if I can bleed the system like standard way, I have a 05 and I heard I have to use tech stream to bleed it

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Wanyekerr You don't need to use tech stream for a simple bleeding. If you're doing a brake booster swap, then yes, you need to use tech stream. We use it in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e361p616ZcqjaaM

[@LLCoolPass]

Bigger rotors don't have more heat dissipation. Basic physics.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, I don't know what physics class you took but the larger the heat sink the larger the heat dissipation. You don't even need physics to understand that. It's common sense.

[@AztekM1]

Will these calipers work on a 06 tundra?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Unsure. Maybe visit a Tundra forum and ask this same question.

[@AztekM1]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the reply man. Everything that I have founds said you need to have a 3.5mm removed from the mounting ears by a machine shop.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@AztekM1 Gotcha. I bet a machine shop wouldn't charge too much for that.

[@mikejohnson9118]

You will want to "spray" brake cleaner away from you. *Especially* when you don't wear eye protection. That stuff stings!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, I've gotten a shot of brake cleaner in the eyes more than a couple times.

[@mikejohnson9118]

@@TimmyTheToolman I could see how that would happen...Hint Hint 🤔

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mikejohnson9118 I don't like wearing eye pro. I find it annoying. The only time I wear it is when grinding and cutting to avoid metal getting lodged into one of my eyes. I also use a welding helmet when welding. Going blind isn't one of my goals.

[@mikejohnson9118]

@@TimmyTheToolman I hope not...Cause "We" would call you Timmy the Pirate then...arrrghhh

[@lancet-kinzhal-su57]

china wheels - not quality

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What would you suggest? A whole lot of products we purchase in the United States come from China. I bet there's a shit ton of products in your home that came from China.

[@lancet-kinzhal-su57]

​@@TimmyTheToolman where is it at home? in the country - I am not her master. and in a private house there is no Chinese. But it was about a car. I do not put any Chinese rubber, or Chinese disks, or Chinese air fresheners, or Chinese bulbs on my car. And it's not accepted to talk about shit in a decent society, it's about culture ...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@lancet-kinzhal-su57 Alrighty then.

[@FK-we1dp]

@@TimmyTheToolman 😂 wtf

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@FK-we1dp My sentiments exactly.

[@stereolababy]

maybe at some point put on some clean gloves

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The better hack is to put blue painters tape on the rotor surface to prevent grease from contaminating the surface. But either way, nothing some brake clean can’t handle! - Sean

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Since you did bother to make a comment, let me ask you something. Did you find the video helpful or informational? I do understand you thought I should have changed my gloves at some point, but is there anything else you'd like to add? - Tim

[@stereolababy]

@@TimmyTheToolman yeah you didn't talk about how break in new brakes. bed them in

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@stereolababy Some believe you need to bed new brakes in, and others don't. I fall in the second group. Here's something to think about. Do new vehicles come with bedded in brake pads? Does a shop after they install new brake pads and rotors bed the brakes in for the customer or explain to the customer the necessity to bed them in? Once you answer those questions for yourself, you'll better understand my point of view on the subject matter.

[@stereolababy]

@@TimmyTheToolman well as someone who does how to videos maybe just explain that.

[@bubblebutt4201]

Does it work on the rear

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's just for the front from what I was told by my buddy Thanh.