Lidl Parkside Metal Cutting Bandsaw PMB1100 A1 Blade Change

Further testing of the bandsaw and changing the blade for a Milwaukee one which fits and runs well.
I used a Milwaukee blade, part number 48-39-0501 which is a 10 TPI blade. They also do them in 14, 18, 24, 10/14 and 14/18 TPI. I don't have the part numbers for those.
Details available on the Milwaukee tools website, link in pinned comment.

[@samsgarage1716]

Looks like a great bandsaw.You have so many tools.

[@BensWorkshop]

I do. I do a lot of different things.

[@alvarokerosene6257]

Very good tool. And excellent demonstration

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks. I just need to work out the best way of getting a good square cut...

[@alvarokerosene6257]

I understand Benedict

[@BensWorkshop]

I have now got it cutting square freehand.

[@1965greeves]

i found that a pair of pliers helps to replace the blade , not to force but helps to guild the blade into the rollers , also clamp the blade with what ever at the top of saw , this STOPS the blade keep coming out

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks for the tip. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@reaper060670]

what I do now is use a cable tie on the switch so I set it up on the cut line and let it fall at it's own pace. I found that some of the bearing were not moving like bearings usually do. I've had the same issue with my saw but I thought it was just me pushing down on it while holding the handle. For 99 euros ur not getting anything too good I'm afraid. I bought it to cut steel. I think I'm going to make some type of stand to use it as a standing bandsaw for cutting metal. That way I'll have a bit more control. I'm going to build a small table for it too. The way it clamps the metal piece we're cutting isn't the best either. I think there could be an issue with that too. The whole stand looks not too great imho pal. Hope u find a good solution bcos I bought this to be able to cut 90 degree cuts too. haha! It becomes very annoying when they sell below average tools.

[@BensWorkshop]

Yes, it is not the best but lots of other people on KZbin have done various upgrades which, they claim, works well. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@LRMan100]

Hi - I enjoy your Parkside reviews. Try adding shims to the cutting side or other side (depending which way it’s going out for square). They may help to square up the material clamp. Dave

[@BensWorkshop]

Yes, someone else suggested that too, shim the clamp. I did try shimming the bit that holds the arm. I will try it, and if it works I will report back.

[@forgednature]

Helpful, thanks.

[@BensWorkshop]

I am pleased it was helpful. Please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@tomaszakadr_dres2167]

Thanks Ben

[@BensWorkshop]

I am pleased it was helpful. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@giuseppeboschi585]

the problem is not the blade but the machine, the plane of the vice is not at 90 ° with the descent stroke of the blade, I have put a shim under the vice.

[@BensWorkshop]

I've tried various shims, it doesn't help. The blade seems to twist. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@GrumpyTim]

The blade change doesn't look like much fun but there again you won't exactly need to be doing that very often so that's ok. the freehand cutting looks a bit awkward but could have it's uses such as removing a section of something far too big for the vice. I'm trying to think about the the alignment issue - if the cutting edge of the blade isn't square with the axis of the pivot it will always cut incorrectly because the blade will be trying to pull in one direction while the saw is travelling in line with the pivot axis - there isn't any sort of adjustment on the guide rollers for the blade is there? If on the other hand it's just down to a generally sloppy mechanism, it could be that once it's gone off line a little it just keeps pulling the whole saw head and blade over to one side. As you mentioned in other comments, maybe shimming either the pivot base and or the vice might help. I'm sure that with enough trial and error you might be able to improve it a bit but even if you can't, it could still be really useful and save a lot of arm ache cutting stuff by hand.

[@BensWorkshop]

Oddly the next video is freehand cutting. Fairly easy. Cuts square also though you can't cut at 45 degrees. I will try shims under the vice next.

[@TheDzordanoBruno]

Hello, how long last that one blade? I bought Makita and i have a lot damage blade after few cuts.

[@BensWorkshop]

I can't give you an answer to that. It does depend a lot on what you are cutting. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@sanityplease]

Hey, did you manage to get it cutting square? Just got one today and it’s out too. Great videos, just subscribed.

[@BensWorkshop]

Not really. It does freehand though, no problem, see the next video in the series. Many thanks for watching and subscribing! Don't forget to hit the notification bell.

[@mpr106]

Same here. Shame, get what you pay for I suppose but parkside are usually pretty decent

[@SuperAlkurdi]

How to fix the drums if not work properly and the bands saw not running

[@BensWorkshop]

I have not had any problems with mine, so if I was you I might well call Lidl customer support as it will have a 3 year warranty.

[@johngardiner6800]

Is the problem with the saw alignment or the vice?

[@BensWorkshop]

It's difficult to be 100% certain but I suspect it's the way the saw is mounted. It cuts straight free hand, I did another video on that and have used it freehand, but it doesn't in the vice even if you shim one side of the vice. Thank you for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@pcka12]

Which Milwaukee blade have you chosen, I bought the 14tpi 44 7/8 inch (1139.8mm) blades & they slip under any load (I don't have the original to compare because it was cracked ). Thanks

[@BensWorkshop]

Mine is the same length. I can only assume it might need new tyres, or perhaps clean any oil off the rubber. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@pcka12]

@@BensWorkshop thank you, I actually removed the driving wheel and washed the rubber band in detergent then gently sanded any gloss off with fine silicon carbide paper, still no joy! I am more used to the Taiwanese cast iron bandsaws which have cast iron wheels & no tyre at all, but with those tools you can tighten the blade up as much as you like whereas this saw uses a cam with a specific range which doesn't allow for variations from one band to another so perhaps that is the problem? Anyway thanks again for your helpful reply.

[@BensWorkshop]

@@pcka12 Fair enough. How worn do the tyres look?

[@pcka12]

@@BensWorkshop they are pretty much unused (I had a little interlude involving a triple bypass operation between buying it and attempting to use it).

[@BensWorkshop]

@@pcka12 I see. Sorry to hear that. Odd. Have you cleaned the blade?

[@bish1121]

Just square the vice to the blade. Undo the nuts to the vice put the blade down & measure from blade to vice at two ends then do up vice nuts Or put a piece of square end material in the vice & measure from blade to material. 👍

[@BensWorkshop]

The problem is the blade bends as it cuts through the metal. Even if you shim the vice to make it more square it still bends. The issue is that the saw stand is at the wrong eng of the saw. The bigger band hacksaws that are permenently stand mounted run the other way. It isn't a problem on freehand cuts though you can't cut at 45 degrees freehand. See here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3jVqod6o9-bsNU Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@user-xr4bt2cs5l]

what is the difference A1 vs B2 I have B2

[@BensWorkshop]

I am afraid I don't know. I suspect not much. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@martinatkinson2773]

it might be the diameter of the blade most blades are 1400mm mine is 1140mm and I can't find one anywhere

[@Qvantum46]

Hi Benedict.Nice review, this is for sale here next week, saving up for it :) Suggestion, cant you shim the vise a bit so it gets square to the cutting path.If the blade motion is fixed it seems you need to tweak the vice a bit. BR Mack.

[@BensWorkshop]

I did try shimming the base of the arm, that didn't seem to work. I will try your suggestion though. I have just tried freehand cutting and you can cut straight fairly well. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@Qvantum46]

@@BensWorkshop As long as it cuts ok and have suff power I think its a nice beginner saw for metal.The price is well under half of the cheapest ones here in sweden. You should be able to tilt the vice a bit to get square to the cutting path.If the saw is wobbly at the base/arm it might need some tweaks too, it looked a bit loose when you pulled on it.But for the price I still think its an ok beginners saw. BR Mack.

[@BensWorkshop]

Fair comment. I did tighten the arm up a bit... I will also try shimming the vice and see if that helps.

[@jmjmservices]

Good review ..your forcing the blade and putting huge pressure on the blade and saw blade will twist..give it time .let the saw do the work..

[@BensWorkshop]

The manual says that you should let the saw "fall under its own weight" which is what I was doing there and when freehand cutting here kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3jVqod6o9-bsNU It cuts square if you freehand cut (with care). I have experimented and no matter how much you hold the saw up, you can't get it to cut square in the stand. All similar industrial saws have their motor at the stand end and also run the other way pulling the blade towards the stand end as opposed to this one which pulls the other way.

[@phalkoni]

You Would be better honing the blade by taking it really easy with the first couple of cuts and adding some cutting fluid I recon the teeth are now buggered and nothing will cut square with that blade now

[@BensWorkshop]

It cuts square freehand.

[@pollyaloy]

It's main function is to cut a straight line and it fails to do so because there are no adjustment options . Such a shame that it's only any use is for cutting scrap !

[@BensWorkshop]

Yes... But I have just cut a 2" cast iron bar and the two bits of box dead square freehand... The saw is in my view good, the stand is fine, it's the swivel bit I will not be using. I will post an update as soon as I have filmed and edited it. Hopefully later today. Just got to get the card off a wacker whilst it's still light so that I can get it ready to sell first.

[@AliMackMechanical]

I seen this in my Lidl I thought about buying it myself. I think it's ok for the price but as your demo shows not as good as I thought glad I didn't buy it now.👍

[@BensWorkshop]

Yes, not as good as it could be. I will see if I can work out how to make it work better.

[@wibblywobblyidiotvision]

A bit late to the party here, but here's my tuppence worth. The saw itself is kinda OK. The blade tensioning mechanism is crap, full of slop, and really needs decent bolts with some custom spacers instead of the godawful shoulder bolts used as stock. this removes the slop. While you're at it on that end, the free wheel is mounted dry, the axle wants drilling and cross drilling to ut a grease nipple in place. And some spacers to take out the axial slop there, too. Once that's done, and with a bit of fettling on the blade guides, you're good to go. Not much work if you have a lathe, and makes the saw definitely worth the entry cost. Using it freehand, you need to be holding the piece up against the blade guide, which makes any sort of angle cut "hazardous" for the blade. That goes for most portabands, though. If you're gonna be switching between stationary and freehand, lose the 3 plastic wing bolts, and replace them with captive studs loctited into place, and wingnuts. Repeatedly screwing and unscrewing into zamak is bad mojo, the threads in the casing will fail sooner rather than later. The electronics are junk, particularly the trigger switch. Definitely built down to a price, and I'll be switching mine out for an on/off switch, maybe a fwd / reverse (it's a universal motor, so in theory all you need to do to reverse is to swap the brush wiring over). The base is a piece of crap. Nothing is square, and there's no support for the work. The vice, with its floppy jaws and 2cm dangle in the breeze is particularly egregious. Straight out of the box, it will never cut anything like square. Put a square on the vice, against the blade in the "down" position, then lift the blade up, and realise why it cuts cockeyed. There's an italian bloke who has video up showing his mods to the vice, where he moves the vice to get 50mm+ width on 45° angle cuts, as well as fixing a load of other little niggles. Even the original blade with its potato welds will cut straight if the rest allows it to. The milwaukee blade is a definite upgrade, though.

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks for the tips. I agree with the assesment, though it is OK. I don't have a lathe, I have two....(and a mill, 3 welders and a drill press) Have you got a link to that tips video? Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@BensWorkshop]

Also I have lots of videos on motors, induction and universal.

[@wibblywobblyidiotvision]

@@BensWorkshop KZbin probably won't let me post the video link entirely, but here's the video id : _8jMrKI8ino

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks, I will take a look later. I think it is dependent on channels and I think you can post links but I can get them from that.

[@bartoszmarcinkowski9707]

That was terrible example how to use metal cutting band saw free hand. You need to rest that small fence against the piece you want to cut, way more stable and safer way to cut free hand. All the best ;)

[@BensWorkshop]

You didn't watch the whole video then. You also can't cut at 45 degrees with it against the fence. That said, you can't hold it away from the fence with a 10 TPI blade either.

[@bartoszmarcinkowski9707]

@@BensWorkshop yes, you are right, I didn't watch rest of the video. I couldn't bother after I saw how you used it ;)

[@BensWorkshop]

@@bartoszmarcinkowski9707 Outstanding. I shan't be taking your advice, for a whole bunch of reasons, not the least of which is that you can't cut at 45 degrees against the fence.

[@1965greeves]

got one from LIDL back in mach 2022 , after MANY MANY emails about faulty wheel rubbers , ABSOLUTE would not help me , BAD COM. TO DEAL WITH , the rubber came off the drive wheel , not one bit of help from this com. DISGUSTING TREATMENT TO A CUSTOMER , I WILL NEVER BUY FROM THEM AGAIN , found a com. on the net that i got one from BAD SERVICE FROM LIDL

[@BensWorkshop]

Very sorry to hear that. If it happened from new, you could take it back to the shop for a refund.. You may well be able to if you have the receipt.