3 Years LATER!!! A FULL Orchard Tour

[@missouribroad978]

Holy moly, that was THREE years ago?! I remember that orchard video and it does not seem like it was that long ago! Looks great!

[@TheFamilyFarmstead]

I thought the same thing. Time does fly.

[@redherringbone]

It does seem like that was just last year.

[@leewillis2908]

Same!

[@joyceslusser3148]

Same!! Where did the time go!!?

[@terrytt2932]

My arborist's mantra: the first year trees sleep, the second year they creep, the third year they leap!

[@jamjar5716]

😅❤

[@SilverCreekHomestead]

I love that! I hope it’s true! 😅

[@terrytt2932]

@@SilverCreekHomestead it truly is!!

[@ciphercode2298]

Just throwin this out there fir anyone who may be interested. Theres a family owned orchard in north Carolina called Century orchard that specializes in apple trees from across the early american south. Theres alot of varieties that time has forgotten,but are still fantastic producers. They offer close to 100 varieties on disease and draught resistant root stock. We tryin support family owned small businesses with great service and support

[@rangerswife2176]

Thanks!! Will look them up!😀

[@SilverCreekHomestead]

Which part on North Carolina? Do they have a business contact? 😊

[@andielliott7721]

Good to know!

[@andielliott7721]

I checked them out. Wonderful selection and lots of information.

[@AZJH8374]

I can't believe I've been watching you 4 for 7-8 years! Time flies!

[@AZJH8374]

Comfrey & Rhubarb around fruit trees. The BEST!❤❤

[@ronp-eb9bh]

Fellow watchers: Please make sure to hit that Like 👍 button to show some love to our favorite homesteading couple. Lets help them hit that 1 million subscriber mark. You can tell that they work hard to provide us great homesteading advice - so don't forget to give them a digital hug with a like.

[@ninagerulski8832]

I hit like before I watch. I’ve been watching them for ‘years’ and I’ve learned so many things from these 2 wonderful people. My gratitude to them cannot be put into words🫶

[@samanthabloggins1775]

Has it been 3 years ! I remember when you planted it! Time goes by tooooooo fast for me!❤❤

[@christywoffinden1592]

The best way we kept weeds and grass from around our trees is to cut a circle all around the tree about 2 feet out from the trunk. The edge you cut has to be straight up and down. Take out the grass inside the circle. The straight edge keeps the grass from expanding. I occasionally have to pull a weed due to a seed blowing in and rooting

[@cinderoftheland1496]

So happy that the fence is working!!

[@carricowherd3826]

I watch the gardening channel with James prigioni. He uses strawberry plants under his fruit trees to shade out grass. Also permapasture farms plants comfrey under his trees and chops and drops it as a mulch. It helps keep the roots cool and keeps weeds at bay. I hope this is helpful for you. Thank you for sharing your farm with us. 😊

[@johnr3603]

As a long time gardner those trees should be a bit bigger after 3 plus years. Water,mulching and fertilizer schedules may need evaluated .

[@whitehorse1961]

@johnr3603 Are you gardening in southern Mo? Just wondering. The acidic soils and rocks being a challenge here. I ended up digging holes with excavator to plant trees pulling rocks a size of a head then back filling with soil and compost mix. Even after doing all that you fighting soil compaction and lack of nutrients.

[@minuteman728]

@@whitehorse1961 They're around Ava. Missouri is the best at growing rocks! lol

[@kittymarlow6487]

@@minuteman728 While I’m sure you are right about Missouri’s ability to grow rocks, I think those of us here in Southern Oklahoma could give them a run for their money! 😂

[@SimplyJanHomestead]

The orchard looks amazing!

[@lynnsweeney4529]

Wow, like so many other's, I can't believe it's been that long since you planted the orchard. We love to look back and see how the homestead has grown. Thank you for taking the time to share your wonderful videos with us. 😊

[@karenperson6090]

I have never seen so many tomatoes! I would love to make some green tomatoed relish with those green ones. The orchard is beautiful! So proud of both of you. You have a homestead to be proud of.

[@renestewart604]

Your orchard is looking good. Time really flies. Feels like you planted those trees yesterday.

[@kathyp3494]

My first video! Now I’m hooked.

[@johnlord8337]

With your weird weather patterns in Missouri, I would suggest that you allow the mulberry "tree" to first become a massive shrub with thick trunks and limbs until it starts getting into the 8-10 foot mark. Then start thinning out (over time) the smaller and less directly vertical trunks. Eventually, concentrate on a decision of which trunk will become the singular main leader trunk. This way, all of the growing shrubbery supports the greater growth and shade of the growing root and rootlet base of the tree. With a stronger and vastly established root system, you can then concentrate on the main trunk and grow the mulberry from a shrub (elderberry style) into the proverbial mulberry tree. This way, Missouri weather systems or not, the strongly established mulberry tree can overcome all of the weather weirdness, and become a strong and healthy producer of fruits.

[@kcs.farm09]

Good Morning! Trees look beautiful! It doesn't seem like 3 years since I watch you plant those ❤️

[@kathys9786]

A couple of folks I follow plant comfrey around their fruit trees. When the comfrey gets tall, they just push it to the ground and let it fertilize the trees while keeping the weeds down.

[@lindapeterson7166]

Hi Kevin & Sarah,WOW,your orchard is doing so well after 3 years.Kevin & Sarah,your homestead is just beautiful.❤

[@coryart]

I looked online and found a version of one of Kevin's T-Shirts "Guess what? with an arrow pointing at a chicken's butt" to wear for this years local brewery festival. I also bought a hallmark card that plays the chicken dance song, gutted the card and made a musical necklace. Whenever someone says "Chicken butt!" I can play the chicken dance song. LOL

[@MoneypitHomestead]

Hi Kevin and Sarah, enjoyed this video and the tips you provided us on the orchard. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Lisa and Donald

[@ellendavis9940]

Everything is so beautiful at your place. You shared a lot of good information that we all can use, and I’m grateful for that. Many blessings to you both.

[@markkiel2668]

To control weeds I just mulch several inches deep around the tree. It also helps retain moisture

[@jerrygibs8120]

Watching from Texas, I enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience with your creative expertise. I really like the way that you have planned for a workable layout of your property. Praying for your safety, strength, wisdom, health and success in Jesus's Mighty Name. Blessings to you and your family. ❤☝🙏🙌💪👊

[@JC-cu2xf]

Also we know Sara is a wiz at creating delicious treats that those fruits could be used for. No sugar added jams/jelly treats and beautiful summer fruit salads. God bless and enjoy ☺️

[@kittymarlow6487]

This was really fun to tour the orchard with you and I’m glad to hear you are planning to eat some of your fruits. Eating fresh organic fruits can be very beneficial for your health. You know what they say…. “An apple a day keeps the doctor away” 😂 Next up: An update on the Berry Patch (?)

[@AZJH8374]

Comfrey and Rhubarb, especially around apple trees. 🍎 per Little Mountain Ranch.

[@kkeenan536]

I’ve had good luck with cardboard around my trees & cover with compost or soil conditioner.

[@cynthiafisher9907]

How does water get through the cardboard to water the tree?

[@kkeenan536]

@@cynthiafisher9907 you saturate the cardboard on both sides, water the area around the tree , then place the cardboard and mulch. Then you water the mulch to saturate it. The cardboard stays in tact long enough to block & kill weeds, but the earthworms love the cardboard & break it down pretty fast. Seems the cardboard is pretty porous when wet (I’ve never had a tree or shrub wilt from it blocking water)

[@cynthiafisher9907]

@@kkeenan536 Thanks

[@donaldmiller8629]

Your very own Garden of Eden !

[@virginiagates9322]

Some extension offices may be able to connect you with volunteer gleaners after you have picked what you can use or give away. The fruit is donated to various food banks or organizations serving food to those in need in your community. There is usually a questionnaire you fill in and submit so that the appropriate number of people can be available at the right time, and, so that they can bring the right equipment that they will need in order to complete the job.

[@charlesdevier8203]

The orchard looks great. I started mine 5-6 years ago and now have 60+ trees here in mid-Missouri. I also tossed out the rubber tree mats. Now use cardboard and cover with woodchips. I also tossed out the tree wraps; instead I use 1/2 inch galivanized wire and cut pieces that are 9 inches tall. The third thing is I plant fruiting bushes between the trees to make use of all that space. I now have gooseberry, cranberry, honeyberry, currents, rhubarb, Juliet bush cherry, figs, hazelnuts, elderberry, etc.

[@scentsbyemebathbody3161]

Wonderful orchard! Blessings will come from them for generations.! Experiment and grow what you can ! ❤🏡👍🙏

[@Augy.1]

Wow 3 years goes by quick…I remember watching the video of you guys planting the trees. Thinking to myself…”I can’t wait to see them in a few years”….Well here we are. Thanks for the video guys.

[@ScarletFoundryTarot]

FRUIT has such great nutrition and so much fiber. Whole fruit that is.🍒🍇🍎🍏🍐🍑

[@3BHomestead]

A fruit orchard is a great investment. I hope you get fruit next year!

[@johnlord8337]

Best options I have found for irrigation of orchard trees, is to install 5 gallon buckets near the trees' drip rings. Drill tiny drip holes in the bucket bottom for drip irrigating the tree roots. Just keep filling up the buckets (and even put fertilizer into the water buckets, and this will take care of both irrigation and fertilization. You will have proper irrigation and fertilization at all times.

[@rangerswife2176]

Great idea. Will try this!

[@cynthiafisher9907]

If there’s no rain during the summer, how often would you fill the buckets?

[@johnlord8337]

​@@cynthiafisher9907 Everything depends on your soil conditions. Like here in this Missouri rocky and hard clay, sand, and silty soil (with minimal black gold crumbly organic soil), the drip rate needs to be adjusted with the number of drip holes, and their size. One just continues to water-up the buckets as they drop down in volume - as one can easily see walking by the bucket and the water level inside. Its that simple. The "water-humid" (not water-wet or water-saturated) soil will continue to (water surface friction) leach water downward and outward from the bucket in the "zone of aeration" (soil with air between the soil particles) above the "zone of saturation" (water level). It also depends on the depth of the water level also in the soil area. The deeper the water level, the greater the irrigation of the topsoil needs to be. It is known in orchard fields, that they literally flood the orchards here in California, up to 1 foot of water !!! This is done as a monthly cycle of irrigation (when no other irrigation is done). Also as part of these growing young saplings, one absolutely (with all of the current climate heat domes, drought, ... one must step-up one's irrigating to get the water down to the roots and leach deeper, creating its own mini-aquifer region in the zone of aeration. The biggest reason for this irrigation from the topsoil downward, is creating water tension, that by osmosis, PULLS UP the zone of saturation up to the plant's roots. It is known that a healthy treed location, has its roots pulling up the water level, creating greater green grassy soils. As such, depending on your water level depth, your drip irrigation is this function of creating the "water fall" level of irrigation, that connects the topsoil to the water level. This then allows the water to "UP-FILL" the zone of saturation further upward to the plants, tree roots, etc. Much of the same surface methods of creating swale (barrows and ditches funneling rain, water, and underground water flows to seep into the soil, but also settle and create an underground waterway, that can eventually upwell into humid soil, and possible ponds, or even start a spring or mini-creek of water flow. During the Spring - Summer - Fall soil temperature above 60F, should be irrigated each month for that same 1 foot of water depth in the area of those orchard tree's "drip lines." Drip lines are the outward most leaves of the tree branches, catching the rain, and dropping it downward. This - IS - the boundary ring in which the current roots and rootlets have reached outward. Any irrigation and fertilization inside of the dripline is useless, as the tree has already "eaten" up all nourishment, and moved outward, and downward. Thus, looking at a tree and knowing its dripline, and what ~should be~ normal root growth drip lines for its age, you know whether you have a thriving, survival-thriving, or survival-dying tree ... and what to do about it. As you can see by the many trees that were planted, some are thriving, some are survival-thriving, and one (at least) is survival-dying. As I mentioned when they post-hole cored the ground, they created a cylinder in which to put the rooted trees into this ground. This created a hard boundary in which the trees then needed to learn-up and toughen-up and penetrate outward from this hard cylinder ground boundary. Some of these trees, and the natural hard soil, were able to do this, while others (as you can see from their columnar (pillar) growth pattern, that they have had a hard time growing outward and downward. As such, I mentioned on that vid, that there should have really been a massive 4-5 foot area of total rototilling, and down to 2-3 feet deep of soil working before planting, and soaking the newly planted (and shocked) trees. So you see what I have been waiting to see, what my words have been said to become a reality. Orchard trees (fruit trees, nut trees) are actually shallow rooted species - much like pine trees. They have no taproot digging deep down and holding the tree firmly in place. As such, one MUST have friable soil, black gold worked soil, compost, compost tea, manure, decomposed wood chips (no cedar or eucalyptus chips !). Also, if one starts using an PVC pipe cored down to 3 feet and embedded and emplaced around the trees at a distance of 4-5 feet distance from the main trunk. One can then pour water and fertilizer down the PVC pipe for instant deep fertilization, that draws the roots outward in this direction of water and nutrition. One only needs to use a wood dowel and put into the PVC pipe, draw out, and measure the water level in the PVC pipe. One then understands the underground soil conditions - wet, dry, humid, ... saturated. One then makes adjustment to these fertilizer pipes with additional or suspended fertilization. As part of an initial planting of an orchard fruit tree meadow, one should truly rototill deep into the soil. Overturn, overturn, and overturn until you start making that fluffy aerated soil. Like I have done with horrible soil, you dig down to that 3 feet of depth, then lay in fertilizer, compost, compost tea, manure, grass/hay clippings, dry (not green) wood chips (semi hugel kulture). Thoroughly water in this mixture, along with potting soil, and other black gold soil amendments. Mix in equal measures of organic soil with the native soil, having a highly nutritious initial soil for the tree roots to work into and consume the healthy nutrition. Plant the tree to the proper root depth. If you have a hybrid tree, with a root system attached to another species off above ground tree, then you need to see the healed attachment. Put the bulbous edge of the attachment to the north, hiding it away from the sunlight, heat, and UV irradiation. This protects the budding from heat and danger. Plant this bud attachment above the ground height. Part of the issues of having no grass or grass in orchards, depends on what grasses are grown. Grasses by their nature are also "water suckers." Their cover crop feature is keeping the soil moist, but the many nitrogen-fixer crops provide additional natural nitrogen into the soil for their compatriot fruit trees. Legumes, that include peas, vetches, peanuts, clovers, and beans, can produce their own nitrogen. Besides legumes and beans, you can also plant ground cover and trees. This includes: Lupines, cowpea, fava beans, and alfalfa. With some of these cover crops, and having homestead livestock, then growing clovers, pea, vetch, beans, and alfalfa, you can grow and harvest these crops for the livestock. Orchard crops will then have proper ground cover for water retention, nitrogen fixing options, and hay. With cover crops you can also use buckets and PVC piping ... and they will all work together ... and not fight for nutrition. It is only with other grass crops (here on the orchard) that you will have greater irrigation problems, and the grasses (depending on their root depths will suck up the topsoil nutrition). Many of the nitrogen-fixer legumes have moderate to DEEP root depths versus other shallow meadow grasses. Alfalfa have roots up to 24 feet deep ! This is another reason for deep rooted nitrogen fixers PULL UP the water level, but also deep soil nutrition into the upper and top soil layers. Proper preparation of one's orchard soils, proper planting techniques, then further irrigation and fertilization cycles creates your orchard's maximum growth up, down, and all around ... with great and healthy fruit production.

[@cynthiafisher9907]

@@johnlord8337 Thanks for the education! I found a lot of what you said very interesting. I live in the high desert of SW Idaho. We only get around 10” of precipitation per year. We irrigate with snowmelt from the mountains in the summer, as we typically get no rain for at least 3 months. I use overhead sprinklers in my garden and orchard, although I would like to change to using drip irrigation.

[@lindabrown2170]

Wow that three years went by fast. They look great!

[@judithgarnett5307]

I remember when you planted the orchard, I'm so glad it's doing well. It is sad about the Rainier Cherry Tree Rainiers are my absolute favorites

[@marking-time-gardens]

Wow! Dosen't seem like 3years already! Thank you for sharing your experiences with us! Blessings on your family and your growing homestead Kiddos!🌻🐛🌿💚🙏💕

[@DebbieC624]

I watch the gardening channel with James Prigioni, he’s in NJ. He uses a lot of mulch and puts strawberries around his trees. He also uses surround kaolin clay in a sprayer and sprays his trees which helps keep any pests at bay. I would love to have an area to grow fruit trees. 🤷🏻‍♀️ maybe one day. Love your videos ❤️❤️❤️🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@kaybusby7507]

Can't believe it's been 3 years looks amazing. I'm sure you're going to get a wonderful crop in the future. Thank you for sharing and showing us.

[@Nancy-zk9dj]

I have a 3-year old orchard too. It amazes me when I see what the trees are doing and that I planted them! I have an older, 4 year old cherry tree that I couldn't stop taking pictures of this year, perfect cherries! On a tree I planted! ❤

[@robertsepp4546]

gardenplanbyai AI fixes this. Full Orchard Tour after three years.

[@deborahtofflemire7727]

Beautiful from Ontario Canada

[@denniscarr8596]

Your property is looking great. I can see your idea of planning for your golden years along with making it workable for working kids!👍👍

[@jaredmccutcheon5496]

I have tree trimmers drop off truckloads of wood chips at my place and I use them around my trees to both conserve water and keep the weeds away. I put a 6-8” layer of wood chips in about a 4 foot diameter ring or larger if it’s a big tree and it works great to keep the soil insulated, weeds down, and water from evaporating off the root zone. I have a pretty large orchard so I’m always asking tree trimmers to bring chips, lol and one of the best side effects of wood chips is that they build beautiful soil as they break down.

[@hardenmama1800]

I remember hearing that Missouri was the land of the big red apple.

[@southsidecarly7427]

Your orchard looks great!Have a good weekend 🍎 🍏

[@Tam-po5nw]

FYI...I had one Mulberry tree several years ago....the birds "planted" via their poop everywhere!!! They are very hard to kill...I will cut tree and several more trunks grow from what I cut! They are all along my fence lines. Just so you know. Love your channel... God Bless You Too.

[@cynthiafisher9907]

Yea, if you have a mulberry tree, you soon will have lots of mulberry trees!

[@dorothycrowder8577]

Try planting Comfrey around the base of your trees. Comfrey enriches the soil, mulches trees, prevents weeds, and attracts pollinators.

[@jeffmeyers3837]

A trick to prevent early blooms on a peach is to put up a simple shade cloth strung between 2 posts blocking the Southern sun in late Winter/early Spring. Not a guarantee but typically delays blooms a few weeks, enough to avoid the late frost killing those precious blooms.

[@lieuwina]

I can't believe it's been that long since you planted the orchard. It is looking great. Well done.

[@Dianatorres6990]

We need to plant more trees for the future generations and for ,O2

[@johnlord8337]

Along with the rest of the farm, time to start considering putting up fence line bluebird houses. Or two vertical pole birdhouses (fence high and way high). The lower house is for the bluebirds, while the upper house will be taken by the swallows. Otherwise, the swallows with fight with the bluebirds for the house and territory. When they both have their cohabitations, they won't fight at all.

[@johnlord8337]

Put shelving under the outside awning for robins and thrush. Inside shelving in the roof awning for barn swallows. Purple martin (swallow) pole mansions. Bat mansions for the females/young nursery and the bachelor males mansion. Barn owl nesting boxes under the outside barn awning. If there is an option, consider putting up pole nest boxes for "my" kestrels (tiniest falcon). Other smaller birdhouses for the smaller tweeties. Purple martins, tree swallows, cliff swallows, barn swallows ... chimney swifts Kestrels, merlins, ... Barn owls, tree owls (discourage woodpeckers) Chickadees, finches, nuthatches, wrens, sparrows Robin, thrush, towhee, warbler, cardinal, bluebirds, ... maybe even entice a blue jay to occupy the area (Nix any invasive British starlings and grackles !!! ... and discourage any bigger crows and ravens from colonizing) Wood ducks, mallards, .... You provide the shelter, ... the birds will take care of you, the homestead, the weeds and seeds, bugs, larvae, caterpillars, moths, ... and all of the daytime and nighttime mosquitoes, chiggers, ticks, noseeums, gnats, flies, biting flies, ;horse flies, ....

[@johnlord8337]

Birds are the marvelous caretakers of the soil, eating worms, bugs, pill bugs (sow bugs), beetles, beetle larvae, flies, fly larvae, maggots, weed seeds, volunteer seeds and their young greens, silverfish, cockroaches, millipedes, centipedes, earwigs, aphids, white fly, horse flies, biting flies, and all of the biting insects. Every homestead, that is a properly operated homestead has a massive population of cohabiting tweeties on the property for daytime and night time surveillance of critters and bugs. Whether they need to get a small volume of fruits and berries for their own health and nutrition, pales in the end for their services in keeping the homestead clean and tidy.

[@MommaTNJ]

That was a FAST 3 years!!!

[@kenrickgoddard4177]

I have an orchard with over 100 fruit trees on a half acre lot. Spray a mixture of white vinegar and salt around the grassy area to the perimeter of the tree. Once you have done it a few times the tree shades out that area and it mainly free of grass.

[@z144000]

Thank you Kevin & Sarah. Very good. God Bless you all in Love. Maranatha ! ( shared to f/b )

[@keding9159]

We planted peach trees 10 years ago. This year was the first year we actually got peaches... then it hailed.

[@leewillis2908]

😢😮

[@lynnsims6907]

Just a suggestion that may help your orchard in winter...my father worked for a citrus farmer in Florida when I was a kid, and believe it or not, there were some winters that we dipped to 10°. There were many nights that my dad spent in the orchards building contained fires to keep temperatures high enough to prevent damaging crops. Maybe you could build firepits throughout the orchard, or if budget allows, purchase the propane heaters, and keep them going during those times you need the heat most! Just something I remembered and plan to do when I have fruit trees someday!

[@templeton3504]

I see bee boxes and tree netting in the future of your orchard. I can say up here in the land of Apple's and Cherries aka Central WA, keeping your Cherry trees dry and air moving when it is cold to keep the frost off as much as possible, is a big deal. Proper soil acidity is said to play an important role as well. Between your plum and peach tree you could have jokingly put a nectarine tree...horticulture humor.

[@rcjo2]

Hi from Spokane Valley!

[@johnlord8337]

Some of the best options for an orchard, versus full and overgrown tall and wide trees (only making lots of shade) is to keep them pruned at the 8-11 foot mark. For the stone fruits (peaches, nectarines, plums, ...) pruning them into goblet shape for full sun into the interior of the tree and leaves makes them more productive - and airflow keeps the trunk, limbs, branches, twigs, leaves, and flowers dry and disease free. Also start painting up those tree trunks (the "legs" of the trees) with 1/2 - 1/2 latex household paint (latex - not enamel !) and water. Paint and slop on the paint. This creates whitewash for the trunks, keeping down the massive summer heat and sunburn of dark barked trees (especially the plums and cherry family). The whitewash also deters all the crawlies from getting from the ground up into the tree. Birds can see the bugs crawling on the bark, and quickly take care of them for you - appetizer snacks. Also paint the thicker 1+ inch limbs that will eventually grow bigger and bigger. The latex (with its own inherent household antibacterial ingredients also keeps bugs and disease off the tree, bark, from getting into the cambium. Worms and beetles can't chew through the gummy latex paint, and earwigs etc will also not start chewing into the bark and wood. By painting the smaller limbs and branches, you also counter any bird-foot infections (lichen, bacteria, soil blight, leaf curl, etc) and this also protects the trees from bird disease vectors. Make sure with the craggy and broken bark surfaces, that you completely paint into the cracks and crevices and have everything all painted up. This stops any further disease or bug from crawling into those cracks, or wind-blown pollens, dust, molds, mildews, fungus etc ... keeping the tree totally clean and disease free. The KZbin series of Dave Wilson Nurseries of Central Valley California (and the patented Zaiger hybrid fruit trees you find their fruit in all grocery stores now) have the most-excellent training videos of pruning, when, how, various pruning shapes, varieties of trees, and an entire repertoire of information that every orchardist should understand.

[@Gods-Elect]

Thanks for all the info John

[@petersoos498]

Great info...I tell everyone I know to watch D.W.N. videos. I have a small residential plot and their method keeps things in total control for me.

[@margaretkerns4979]

Your grandkids will love the fruit freeze dried

[@hwcinc]

Mother Earth rules! Read and used it and the Whole Earth catalog for years. So much useful information.

[@HeatherNaturaly]

The best 'weed mat' for fruit trees is cardboard and wood chips. You only need the cardboard once and renew the woodchips yearly.

[@chriswinger7881]

I have honey crisp apples this year we counted about 12 and a crabapple with apples also. In Wisconsin. Good luck 👍.

[@coolstamper]

The cherry tree that died, I would try again. That one is a DELICIOUS cherry for eating and/or pies!!! 🥧

[@johnlord8337]

For Southerners and South-easterners Stark Brothers and their orchard trees are great. If you live in the Northeast, is Albemarle Cider Works or the Vintage Virginia Apples site with a large variety of heirloom apples, and other orchard species. For the Northern and Pacific Northwest/West Coast states, there is One Green World (Portland) for huge selections. For the West Coast/Southwest areas is Dave Wilson Nurseries, out of the California Central Valley ... and Trees of Antiquity (Paso Robles, CA) with a MASSIVE variety of heirlooms.

[@Beaguins]

I'm happy to see your orchard again. Thanks for the video!

[@tonyn3123]

I have noticed cities in my area use "water bags" (for lack of a better term) on each tree. They slowly emit water around each tree. They fill each bag periodically and would save running the water hose. And, you left out the berry plants. Thanks. One more thing. When you get a very late frost, I understand water sprinkling is beneficial. You just need to keep above freezing. In Florida they build fires in barrels to emit enough warmth for the groves. I have only seen this done, not experienced it myself.

[@nancyrasmussen2016]

My mulberry tree loves a lot of water. The 2 times I got mulberries that ripened and grew the best is when we got a lot of rain? Orchard looks great. Nancy from Nebraska

[@AProAmature]

Some favorite memories are climbing mulberry trees and enjoying those delicious berries. As nice as tall single truck trees are the multi-trunk ones will be easier for those future grandkids to climb. Those were always my favorites. Just don't eat them too fast, stink bugs like them to. They taste like they smell.

[@rangerswife2176]

😂

[@lynnelliot7256]

I have found that all fruit trees love a good spraying of copper, especially a few times over winter. I put neem oil in the spray as well

[@patriciamorlan6487]

We had the same problem with our cherries here near Kansas City, we added lime to the soil around the trees and they came back like gangbusters.

[@ginagraves9302]

Fruit has fiber and fiber is healthy.

[@kansasmisfit7404]

You could put black ir red mulch around the trees. Brings beauty and weed barrier and water absorption

[@sharonhernandez3555]

My friend had too many apples for her family so her daughter who taught school in the inner city would take baskets of apples to her class and the kids were so excited.

[@rangerswife2176]

Enjoyed this video so much- and the comments were just as great!!❤

[@twohomesteads6512]

Loved the comments about planting these trees for future baby food.

[@robingreany899]

Your orchard is looking great. Only missing an apricot tree. Love what it looks like. Hearts and flowers coming your way. ❤️💐

[@SilverCreekHomestead]

Orchard looks great, and I hope that mine will look that great in two years!!! This may be my favorite of your videos yet! The double fence is a great idea! Those darn deer devoured my garden this year & we were still off grid with water so I totally gave up on it because I was working too hard pumping & hauling water to feed the deer & rabbits!! But I like your double fence with the option of letting the birds run through there! Yall must love cherries, and we do too! lol. We have grass under our orchard trees, too, but we are planning to create a food forest floor come spring. So many great tips in this video, thank you!!!

[@lisawallace3124]

I also planted a mulberry tree, when we bought our first house (in our 50s!) 3 years ago. Sadly no fruit yet, but have learned just this week that I will be moving soon, so 😥😥 no mulberries for me. Maybe next time!

[@elainebuchka6533]

❤Doesn't Seem like 3 yrs. Ago I watched You All Plant that Orchard! It Looks Amazing to Me. I Hope You find Another Cherry tree & whichever Ones Didn't Grow!! Mulberry watch for Birds they Love to Find them & dodo Purple Every WHERE! 😅 God Bless & the Homestead Continues to Look Amazing! Deer Season will Be Coming Up Soon Kevin! Love Good Vension 👍 ❤ God Bless YOU ALL

[@susanstokesbrungard291]

Hi Kevin and Sarah. I remember when you planted it. It looks great. Have a good day. Lv and Prayers all.

[@petersoos498]

Great share. You may start looking around for a 3 leg orchard ladder for picking your fruit later on. It's self leveling and keeps you from 'rocking' and maybe falling.

[@simpleman2627]

Here in pennsylvania, I use the lay of the land to help production. Example- grapes and berries like south facing slopes. But things like peaches do better on north facing slopes because it takes longer for the soil to warm up in the spring. So they bloom later in the spring getting them into safer time frame for late frosts.

[@toilthesoilhomestead]

Oh Sarah I just wanted to tell you about a peach tree from the university of central Florida. It is a tropic peach tree. I went to a farm in Florida this year and picked from there orchard. They were delicious. I have not had a good peach in many years because of living here in Florida. So check it out. I was very pleased.

[@baneverything5580]

My yard is small and very rural and way back off the main road so nobody can see my crops. I lived near a highway once and people got all my fruit and vegetables. So the spring after moving here I began building a garden in a yard that had the topsoil bulldozed away down to hard red clay and gravel. I planted 4 dwarf mulberry trees this year, 2 pineapple guava, and over 8 fig trees...4 Celeste & 4 Brown Turkey and I have more cuttings from these trees rooting in pots to plant along my long driveway for the birds. In cooler weather I plan to grow lettuce, greens, carrots, turnips, radish, and beets under the fruit trees in the mounds of mulch around them. In spring/summer I grow beans, herbs & peas around some of the trees not only for a harvest but to lure the bunnies away from my main garden area. It works. Red Ripper Peas make vines so the bunnies might prune them but they keep going and produce until October. Every ounce of soil has to be made or hauled in a wagon from the forest...a never-ending task. I also plant them under okra and any bare areas in late summer as a ground cover I can harvest, nitrogen fixer, food for pollinators and chop-n-drop compost creator.

[@Tristargardens]

I have an orchard with about 12 fruit trees. I also have a problem with deer but am unable to fence it in for various reasons. So what I have done is cut about 8-foot strips of field fence and lay 2 at the base of each tree. Deer won't step into the wire to get to the tree. Yes, it's a pain in the rear when it comes to mowing, but it's worth the effort!

[@SHADOW-xw6lq]

Plant comfrey under your trees. Check Little Mountain Ranch on how to maintain the comfrey. She does not chop and drop. The comfrey blooms are great for bees.

[@patricianelson7911]

You two are my alltime favorite to watch on here. Always make time to see what you guys are up to. God bless!

[@mountainson8688]

Best luck I have had with fruit trees is to ring em outside of the leaf perimeter with any decent lawn edging, and clear the sod from the interior. I don't put down a weed fabric, because it is a PIA under any fill... as to the fill, I use the shredded cedar (not bark), which seems to be a decent compost that will stay put a while. BUT... it does require maintenance... you have to keep it stirred up... moving old fill from around the best vantage trees to add to rearward trees, and adding fresh to the front. So every few years, you will be messin with it.

[@suewolf6016]

Watching your channel grow as well as those trees!!

[@marilynmiller9864]

You could move your geese to the orchard . They are amazing weeders.

[@metalmartha2571]

Your orchard looks amazing! Great job just think in another five years time you will be knee-deep in fruit on a regular basis. How exciting! You said your sweet cherry tree died over the last past winter if you decide to replace it with a pie cherry tree might I suggest Evans sour cherry? They’re extremely hardy and they produce quickly rounding off at 15 feet tall I believe. They’re absolutely wondrous! We enjoy ours and receive plenty of fruit off of it every year.

[@belieftransformation]

Fantastic orchard; thanks for sharing! I’ve got comfrey plants beside my fruit trees here in Alberta, Canada, & they fertilize the trees, plus choke out the grass. I know it’s different climates but it may help. Plus the Comfrey attracts pollinators. 🤗🇨🇦

[@stevenzalewski8324]

THANK YOU

[@ritad.franklin6372]

Get your Bing Cherries from Walla, Walla, Washington State. They grow the best cherries I've ever tasted.

[@rcgkreations]

Looking forward to seeing theb"Fruits" if your labor

[@sarahrizer6055]

Just love your property

[@joyces.9021]

Thank you for sharing your orchard with us! I would love to have fruit trees but here in southern Alberta we have trouble with fire blight. A challenge for our apple trees.

[@opalezell2166]

Thank you for sharing! I'm getting peach trees this next spring. We have problems with late frost also.Our plums usually get killed by frost.We plant to put plastic cover over our plums next spring.