Load testing My DIY Scooter POWERWALL

Battery Packs 16% OFF j35.us/MH1-SALE
Balance Meter j35.us/BattGo-BG-8S
Energy Meter - j35.us/Sense-Meter
DALY BMSs - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d6G...
DC-DC boost
DC Power Strip jag35.com/products/copy-of-7s... - amzn.to/3hx1FZW
Thermal Camera amzn.to/2P4zy8A
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FAQ:
1) Where can learn more about batteries? j35.us/DIYlithiumBatteryBook
2) Where can I buy Lithium Batteries kit.co/jehu/lithium-battery-c...
4) Where Can I buy Solar Panels? Flexible - j35.us/136wFlexSolarPanl
Glass - j35.us/100w-100-solar
DIY - j35.us/DIY-Solar-cells
5) Where can I buy a Battery Management System? kit.co/jehu/battery-managemen...
6) What parts do you use on your Samba? kit.co/jehu/the-electric-samb...
7) Why not use Supercapacitors?
A. Batteries work better at this time, caps are rare and expensive devices that are very good at doing things not needed for storage systems typically.
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[@mhs149]

That thermal camera is awesome, I should use it in winter to see where my house leaks heat!

[@ooglek]

THANK YOU for making it clear where in the US the difference between peak and off-peak Time-Of-Use (TOU) rate plans that this setup makes sense! I really appreciate that. Looking at average electricity costs across the US by state, these DIY Powerwalls really only make financial sense in about 20% of states where electricity is expensive and TOU deltas are large enough for a reasonable ROI. I'm looking forward to your next video on total costs (seems to have gone up from $1500 in the last video to $2000 now), as well as how you'll be running it at 50% and why you believe you'll be able to get 5,000 cycles when run that way. I'm VERY curious about how you can take normal 18650s that have an estimated 300-500 cycle lifetime and turn it into 5,000 cycles, and what your expected capacity decline curve looks like. And also how you are accomplishing that with the software in your BMS, or if you're using another system to manage that charge/discharge cycle automatically. This website goes too far in-depth than I'm ready to read, but may likely explain what you're trying to do -- charge the batteries to 75%, drain them to 25%, staying in a 50% usage band, to extend the predicted cycle life. batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

[@lee-johnson]

Termal camera. Hehe. Love your accent. Can’t wait to see how you fit it in the cabinet.

[@stewartstewartstewart]

🤣 I was thinking the same

[@angelillosg]

What I would do with those bus bar PCBs is moving the output connector to the middle, instead of one end. That way half of the current will come through each side of the PCB. You can also join the outputs of the 3 boards through some heavier connection, like soldering to a really thick wire or connecting to a copper bus bar. Cascading them like that means the first PCB will have to handle a lot of current and also increases your voltage drops.

[@leafrex5066]

Was gonna comment this. The other option is to pull positive from one side, and negative from the other side, so the voltage drop will be equal.

[@nicholasthon973]

To add on this, I’d make each side a bus for positive or negative.

[@DIYwithBatteries]

Awesome stuff 🔥

[@GapRecordingsNamibia]

6:57 the "rattling" that you feel is called ripple current, the thicker your cables are the less the ripple current there will be, that's why thicker cables are used in bigger current installs, so the reverse is true for the thinner cables,. Only suggestion I would give you is to definitely use thicker cables to your inverters, and then on your power strippes use two tap off points on each PCB preferably on opposite ends to distribute the load a bit more evenly. other than that it should actually work pretty well..

[@leedlbo9949]

After reading these post and observing your work I feel you are on the right track and wanted to mention heat loss in the cables is energy loss that cant be recovered and that gets pretty high as all the wires add up . So like so many are saying the final product will need larger conductors as well as plugs . All this is not so important yet as you are still in the early stages on design but this is quite interesting. I bought 8 packs from you to experiment with for ham radio emergency power supply , the weight is a huge advantage but soon realized at 5 lbs per pack it gets quite heavy to tote around, I have 4 packs in a plastic tool box which fits nicely so adding the meters to and buck converters for my 12 volts out as well as a boost for charging off solar

[@johnmcx8809]

@12:06 put on your safety glasses goggles jehu !!!!

[@TorstenNestler_KOOK-DiDj]

Fantastik !!! Nice !

[@Dylant38]

I could imagine that area loosing power while jehu is testing these battery’s and they start wondering why his shop is lit up like Las Vegas.

[@jankubistjk7921]

This is literally supplying power to the city

[@luismaduena1541]

Hey Jehu awesome video, after finishing my testing on the batteries I ordered they all tested AWESOME! Y quienes son estos hijos de su mama para criticar tu según acento. Tal ves californiano pero es todo. You should make more videos in Spanish use your bilingualism to its fullest. Bueno hermano intento hacer los mismo aqui en el valle de San Joaquin para que más personas se interesen en tus productos y pilas.

[@Beakerzor]

7:22 wow, your thermal camera is legit! I just have a crappy one that plugs into my phone, I think it's 80x60 resolution

[@Torquemada688]

Are those boards the batteries are plugged into for putting them in parallel? If so what are they and what guage wiring is being used?

[@matthieu8292]

What thermal camera is being used please? Great definition!

[@stevelaminack1516]

What thermal camera are you using? Also is there a detailed A to Z guide on making this DYI battery, parts list, wiring diagrams and connecting it to your house? It's kind of hard to get the full picture from your videos.

[@750turbojoe]

Jehu, Love your videos...I'm building a couple batteries for a wheelchair using SPIM08HP cells 7S then those 8P and I now need 8 BMS boards for 7S and some chargers that will charge overnight. What do you recommend my friend?

[@richardburguillos3118]

This looks fantastic!! I’ll have to search your channel, but do you have a video on how to integrate these into a home electrical system? I’m assuming a permit and inspection would be required to maintain home insurance should something go wrong and a fire occurs??

[@BSAElectronics2014]

Another fun video, thanks jehu. I would like to invest in a good IR camera when shopping on Amazon I find horrific reviews of good name brand cameras I'm not looking to spend $2,000 or more on one it would be just an occasional use tool so I was looking something more in the price range of $500 or less, which one did you purchase how much did you pay for it and what would you recommend for my price range. Also I didn't see a link to that whole effect volt ammeter can you put a link down for that I would love to get one of those meters

[@anthonymarino4260]

well done

[@kaushalsuvarna1284]

Can u suggest me a good balanced charger which is available which will be available in India . Btw how is imax b6 ?

[@asiastreets4032]

Are you able to connect all 3 inverter together?

[@invictusfarmer7188]

how would i calculate out how many charge and discharge amps each of my 120p modules are capable of. do i multiply the number of cells by the 1c rating of my cells? im only looking for max and minimum so i have a reference range but im unsure of how being in parallel effects the specs of the batteris.

[@leafrex5066]

The naming is a bit of a marketing lie; an XT-60 is 60A peak, 30A continuous, and XT-90 is 90A peak, 45A continuous. Check the Amass datasheets (they are the original inventor of the connector as far as I know).

[@MrPizzaman09]

@jehugarcia This guy is right. Those connectors are only rated for half as much for continuous draw.

[@StringerNews1]

Jehu, you might give some thought to how you're connecting the grid tie inverters to your AC supply. Whether you have split single-phase or 3-phase AC, you should divide the load as evenly as possible across the legs, so that one leg doesn't get overheated, and potentially cause problems like blowing fuses or breakers. The most common kind of 120VAC circuit is 15A, with NEMA 15 wall outlets. 15A at 120V is 1800VA (if there's no power factor, that's 1800W, but you can't guess), which is good for only one 1000W inverter. Two is 2000W, and will trip the breaker immediately. And because a 15A circuit is only rated for 12A continuous load, or 1440W, which is fine for one, but not two inverters. A 20A circuit is good for 1920W, which is still shy of two units. If you can throttle them to put out no more than 1920W combined at a 1.00 power factor, that's okay, but run them at 2000W and any power factor, and you're looking at tripping breakers! The problem here is that in a previous video you said that you're on 3-phase. To properly feed a 3-phase plant, you need multiples of 3 inverters. You could run a fourth off-grid, but when you consider that you can easily use 1000W on each phase on any existing 15A breakers, but to run two you'll really need 30A circuits, the answer is obvious: use three grid-tie units, one on each phase. These are supposed to be on their own circuits, not sharing any loads, so plugging them into the wall isn't going to pass an inspection. You should check with a licensed electrician who specializes in grid-tie for the best (safest) way to hook them up. If you're in a free-standing building with its own power closet, that's probably the best place. As for the low-voltage section, sizing the wiring is pretty straightforward. You should use THHN or a similar code-rated cable (THHN is good to 90°C or 194°F), and if you need to double-up (take power from both ends of the bus), you may need to hard wire it, or use conductors and connectors rated for the whole 120A load plus 25%. 1/0 AWG THHN is good for 170A, and because turning battery power into heat is wasteful, you should oversize the conductors whenever possible. If you were mass-producing the things, you might choose to cut corners for cost, but with a one-off for personal use, why not over-design it for extra efficiency and safety?

[@scottleggejr]

Lol this always comes up... It depends is the short answer. Is it wired Wye or Delta? 3,4,or5 wire? What kind of inverter? What style transformer? How does the upstream feed/meter? How is it grounded/bonded? etc. etc. etc. 3000w on a 480V 400amp feed isn't shit for phase imbalance. 5%+ of gross is where things start to get wonky. 20% of 576k(va, not watts and not taking power factor in to account) is a whole hell of a lot of power being in a powerwall. In most industrial shops like he has, they're doing 20 amp breakers on everything NEMA 5-15 'style' outlets.

[@milesmoore5422]

What is your opinion of the Erik Meike "Jag35 40 cell BMS Hack" ?

[@IndependentNewsMedia]

If you are going charge at preset time(s), will you be adding a timer circuit ?

[@jehugarcia]

Yes

[@estebanbaltierrez4549]

Are those inverters good to use now? Last time I saw one of your videos you were burning then often.

[@prodeous]

what thermal camera are you using?

[@daniels7424]

I think it will help alot in many ways if try twist your DC+ and DC- cables and short as possible:) Also maybe busbar where ac inverter are and other places maybe?

[@joshuabest100]

Twisting them won't really do anything as twisted pairs are more for getting rid of interference but cutting them shorter would be good idea but I think this is just a load test so it won't be permanent

[@yaghiyahbrenner8902]

Use competition grade car audio grade cable and distribution blocks for your setup. XT-90 is not made for continuous high current draw.

[@taniksambo1969]

To use that grid tie inverter, do you need a permit or some kind of document from the power company to plug it into your wall outlet to push power to the grid?

[@jehugarcia]

It depends on your local laws some places do some probably don’t

[@taniksambo1969]

@@jehugarcia oh I'm in Montclair ca. So I thought if you could maybe i could too?

[@joefranklin9380]

Great shou, please testing more is a .!!!!!!!!.

[@user-dk1cv2zu3t]

Thank you very much for the information. Please, you are in any country

[@marcusbuschbeck1121]

I Drain selfmade 10s4p LG MH1 - Pack with my e-Scooter up to 29 Amps.. but the Load Behavior is not the yellow from the egg. I'm still searching for other Cells 🤷‍♂️

[@AP-514]

how much are you getting for the Power bank ?

[@MrMarkusmulder]

Water cooling 😎?

[@saraca92]

Link for pure sine inverter? Thx

[@GM-qh2ki]

Please offer lipo package please, minus inverters?

[@kjetiltrondsen8242]

A bit off topic. Would it work to use a ofgrid inverter and then add grid tie inverters to get more power? Of course not conected to real grid.

[@jehugarcia]

Yes it works, microgrid

[@TheFatjoshua]

Can you put heat sinks on the cables to get higher preformens

[@firdaus99031]

Better put heatsinks on the inverter, as for the cables just replace it with larger gauge

[@FilipMunk]

XT90, XT60 and so on, are only rated for 90 or 60 amps peak, and continuously is half of that

[@chrisjones-fp5vd]

Don't you need larger cable for that much current?

[@jehugarcia]

Not according to my tests, they barely got warmer than ambient temperature

[@StringerNews1]

@@jehugarcia that depends on the kind of insulation the wires have. The bare minimum 60°C rating is absolutely being exceeded in places. I would make sure that I had good, solid copper cable that's jacketed in THHN or something code-compliant, and rated in excess of the maximum current that _might_ go through it. For 120A service, that means beefing things up in places ... or everywhere. Soldering those XT60 connectors from the packs to copper bus bars wouldn't be out of order.

[@jehugarcia]

I’m using 200°c silicone wire

[@StringerNews1]

@@jehugarcia That's good, but you need to understand that the temperature rating for cable is typically for resistance to _ambient_ temperatures, not direct heating from the wire itself. Remember that the wires are _inside_ the insulation, so the heat where the copper touches insulation can be a lot higher where it matters when you're heating up the wires inside so much. IME silicone wire can fail suddenly and catastrophically when overloaded. When it comes to battery-powered devices, the last thing I'd want to do is use the battery as a room heater if at all possible. Rather than lose dozens, perhaps hundreds of Watts to wire heating, and hoping the insulation holds, I'd spend a little extra for low voltage cabling that doesn't get warm to the touch. When it comes to wire rating, it's not about the current that you normally draw, it's about the current that _can_ be drawn before protection kicks in. A fuse is nothing but a small wire that's designed to fail first so your other wires don't fail later.

[@Beakerzor]

2:38 LOL @ ⛽ gasoline symbol on electrical meter

[@ledgendairy3056]

was it a 60hz rattle?

[@laymanengineer7502]

Wire size brother! You're way under sized.

[@jehugarcia]

According to who? Not what my test showed

[@laymanengineer7502]

@@jehugarciahi jehu, 20 year commercial/industrial electrician here. the vibration you were feeling was a result of IR beyond maximum. It's Not always evident by heat. Heat starts when you surpass IR. I bet you were loosing 10amps & a few volts (under load)in your test due to Internal resistance of the 10awg wire. Although you were using 200° silicon shielded, fine stranded wire. Which has very low resistance. 10 awg is good up 30 amps but the IR is only "low" for 80% of that rating. After that it goes up quite substantial. I think you were pulling 80amps or so through 3 10awg wires? 10awg = 30amps. low IR @ 80% = 24amps maximum 24amps x 3wires = 72amps @ best IR If you did the batt xt90 leads to a 150amp bus bar (1 pos & 1 neg) & ran 8awg to each inverter, your results would have gotten more amps out of the battery with less voltage sag. That would eliminate those bottlenecks we seen with the camera on those PCB boards & you wouldn't have seen any heat in the conductors at all. I get that it's just a test and you were checking the system. My interest wasn't so much in the test, I'm more interested in when they are mounted and pulling 4000 watts on the finished system and enclosed inside a panel box. Love the channel BTW! Been watching it for years! And thanks for what you do man 👍

[@rxonmymind8362]

@@laymanengineer7502 Noobie here.....^Yeah, what he said! (I'll leave now....)

[@Infection3d]

@@rxonmymind8362 lol

[@tetalonstarfyre2419]

@@laymanengineer7502 I agree. Also less power loss in the cables, but for such a short run the power loss is not worth worrying about. Still Jehu is the OG of DIY power walls, and supplies.

[@MaxGoddur]

How are you selling power back to the grid?

[@jehugarcia]

I’m not, net zero is the goal

[@castello544]

The load is the grid? You are sending AC to the grid via the inverters?

[@jehugarcia]

That’s what gridtie inverters do

[@castello544]

@@jehugarcia but it takes as much as you give it? Thanks for the reply

[@stewartstewartstewart]

Why do you use that sort of cable? Can’t help feeling you’d be better with stiff solid copper core dual wall stuff.

[@jehugarcia]

200° silicone high strand copper cable is the best stuff around

[@dieselphiend]

Can someone explain how he is making use of those balancers? I'm dying to see the schematic for this. I can wire a BMS system up, but this doesn't make sense to me- I don't understand where they are getting their readings from, nor do I understand why there is 13 packs of batteries, yet only 5 groupings per BG-8S- that's only 10s. I also don't understand how he is splitting the pack in two as far as the BG-8S are concerned. There's 130 groupings of 3.7v modules- how can that possibly be compressed into 10? I'm so confused.

[@jehugarcia]

There’s 26 10s packs. They are All connected in parallel. So it’s one giant 10s battery pack. That’s why I have to use 2 8s meters, cells 1-5 one and 6-10 on the other

[@dieselphiend]

@@jehugarcia Ahh, so you just have the exact same wire configuration going to each module. You're just cloning them. Okay, does it it just give you the highest and lowest voltages?

[@talkingben3814]

when are the 4 cell modem 25 packs and 100 pack lot going to be in stock on jag35

[@jehugarcia]

Apparently we are almost sold out of those, only 60 left in total

[@talkingben3814]

@@jehugarcia when will you get the next shipment of 4 cell modem batteries in bulk

[@franklyncarter7963]

Eh! love from Cambridge UK

[@giubaca]

How do you recharge that set up...? 🤔

[@jehugarcia]

using a 36v charger, there are many to choose from

[@giubaca]

@@jehugarcia i was thinking to use many small ones original chargers to recharge each battery separately... through it's own bms charging port. And is this inverter good enough? This costs 25% compared with the blue ones from your other video

[@couchsurfer2856]

Why cant you use a 4000 watt inverter?

[@jehugarcia]

I can

[@pulesjet]

That 10 AWG Wire is only rated for like 30 Amp. You need more wire Sir. More Wire.

[@jehugarcia]

I’m only running 35A thru them , did you not see the video?

[@lasersbee]

6:43... Really?? You can feel the electricity going through the cables ?? Yeah... that is crazy. The other trick of reducing the heat buildup in DC Current wires is to keep them short.

[@joshuabest100]

It will be the mppt as these use mppt as they are designed for solar panels but if you use batteries they just put out max power so they will move because of eddy currents

[@lasersbee]

@david coffin That's exactly what he feels... Not the electricity moving through the cables.

[@auntpatty]

Love your demonstration but what a guy really needs to know is what's happening on the AC side all these DC load numbers are worthless what can we run in the real world AC kilowatts is what we need to know. Is it just as simple as 3000 * 3 or words 9000 kilowatt AC kilowatt for load. I'm making plans to convert our whole house to off-grid need to know the size of the bank to handle daily needs I know what my daily kilowatt usage is need to make sure I'm doing the math right

[@AlbiinoBlacksheep]

Each one is 1000W which is 1 kilowatt (kW) so in total 3000W is equal to 3 kilowatt (kW). Your daily kilowatt usage has nothing with how big of a load at a time you can apply. A single simple water boiler can max out all of those with 3000W while charging a phone is like 15W to 65W which means you can charge alot of phones at the same time. Maybe you are talking about what the capacity of the power wall is? He said it was a 10s26p that means it has approx 42V and 52Ah (if each cell is 2Ah) and that adds up to 2184 watthours (Wh) or roughly 2,2kWh. (kiloWatthours) which perhaps is useful to you?

[@kurtzxcvb3481]

You're feeling the vibrations from the inverter fans translating through the power cables

[@williamhughes205]

Lot of amps

[@Bullochman]

Hey man, thanks for the cool video; Hey man, I think you're awesome. I have been watching your videos and I'm so thankful for them. I have a 2016 Polaris GEM Electric Car; It used to be made by Chrysler, but was bought out years ago by Polaris during the auto bailout. I've been trying to inquire with the others in the Electric Vehicle GEM Car Forum community.electricforum.com/c/gem-forum/101 on what the best configuration of 18650 batteries to use in my conversion and everyone is recommending that I go the Prismatic Cell route and they all suggest that the "holy grail" for this conversion is a Chevy BOLT battery. But your way with 18650s makes so much more sense and I really want to invest in the chargers, spot welder, etc. for other battery powered projects in the future. I wondered if you could help me with my Lead Acid to Lithium conversion. It's a 48v Electric Car that has a max continuous draw of 350Amps. It actually converts the DC to AC for the motor. Currently I have FOUR 12v AGM Batteries Rated 120AH Each; they are connected in series so 48v 120AH (5.76kwh). I did your math and I think I need a 13s??p battery packs with approximate 707 cells to get the equivalent 120AH capacity of my current array. I'll need to charge these batteries too with I guess a 100amp charger? Anything you can do to help is greatly appreciated.

[@jamess1787]

You have 3 phase power, I'd be interested in to see how you get this done.

[@Erickthedreamgiver]

hi

[@LeonVuksic]

Why is everyone crying about the wire gauge? I think 2mm thickness can handle 3kw no problem

[@jehugarcia]

Because most don’t understand what’s happening here

[@LeonVuksic]

@@jehugarcia its an honor to see you read my comment and reply sir, I love watching your videos, you inspire me! So just remember when you see bad coments, there are people who dont leave a comment often, but you inspire them with your projects and you're making a change in the world! Have a great day man 🙂

[@kiwiscanwifi]

Its about current not watts.. Higher the voltage less amps the cable needs to handle. Higher the current fatter thee cable

[@DigitalIP]

What gauge are those wires again? And are they full copper or CCA?

[@Erickthedreamgiver]

hi

[@Erickthedreamgiver]

hi