Lotus Elan S4 Bodyshell - Micro-Blisters & Damage Review

[@witofthestaircase1]

It’s interesting that the objective is to preserve the Vegantune styling variations from the standard Elan, of which only the non-airflow B pillars and arches are successful to the modern eye. Interesting too that the boot lid is a boat anchor. I wonder how the overall weight compares with an Elan S4.

[@munky2k]

Interesting debate, to me the modern eye is as subjective as general taste and preference. Totally honest, yes, I’ve had other feedback that all the Vegantune bits should be ripped off (and the roof cut off!), but that’s not happening. In my eyes the package balances; the wider arches need something a little meatier on the front end, which the splitter/valance achieves, which then needs balanced out with the rear lip/ducktail. Possibly the rear could do with being a bit smaller, or more elegant, but overall I think it works. It’s comparable with the evolution of the MX5 through NA to NC model variants, with a deeper front valance and more pronounced boot lip with each iteration. Would probably make an interesting video if I could figure out the technology/editing to bring in images to back up what I’m talking about 🤔

[@witofthestaircase1]

@@munky2k Thanks for your thoughtful response. Reading my comment again, it could have been worded better. I’m mindful of the connection you have with the car as it is. In the scheme of things, Elans are a rare thing and yours, as seemingly a link between the S4 Elan and the Vegantune Evante, somewhat more so. In that respect it can be regarded as authentic. By contrast, mine is an authentic mongrel S3 with an S4 body other than the doors and I, too, kind of like it that way. I’m enjoying your uploads.

[@ralphmillais5237]

There is usually a flat steel brace across the rear panel to strengthen the boot hinge areas. That appears to be missing on yours.

[@munky2k]

Thanks for the reply Ralph, someone already pointed this out, but for some bizarre reason their comment isn’t appearing under the video 🤷🏼‍♂️ After a bit of research I found this useful thread on LotusElan.net regarding making a brace (but also some people saying they had never seen one): lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=36367 I think I will fit one, but still going to go ahead with glassing a profile in under the panel to add stiffness. I’m very conscious of the need for stiffness to create a good rear window seal as well as supporting the hinges and boot seal.

[@richardcooper9417]

Never put the body flat on the floor. The lowest point is the fuel tank mounting bolt, and that can stove it in.

[@awalk5177]

I've not heard of people soda blasting Lotus fiberglass bodies before , so I will be interested to see what happens there. Some parts of Lotus bodies are quite thin from my own experience, and I'm not sure that is anything to be concerned about as the rear window glass will stiffen that rear area when it is fitted. The only thing to really check is the body mount bobbins and the door hinge bobbins (which get some wear). Good luck with the rebuild. The body looks to be in good condition.

[@munky2k]

Yeah, I’ve had a few comments now about soda blast on the shell. Not going to lie, could be heading for serious egg on my face as it’s not something I’ve had done before, but the bodywork specialist recommended it seeing as we’re looking to remove the gel coat as well as the paint. I also know Spyder reference having their own internal soda blasting facilities as part of their back to gel coat repaint service. Realising now I didn’t look at the bobbins in the earlier video I did regarding the body spacers, they’re not bad (considering how bad they can be 😆). Now it’s fully stripped, sum total issues; - Bolt seized/sheared in one of the drivers seat mounts - Thread ripped out one of the bobbins at the tail of the chassis - Both rear bumper bobbins seized/sheared bolts on removal - One drivers side headlamp bolt seized/sheared in the bobbin Reading up on LotusElan.net, I quite like the idea of stainless helicoiling them, with an anti corrosion paste applied to stop galvanic corrosion between the helicoil and bobbin. On the rear shell stiffening, the problem is exacerbated on this car with the weight of the bootlid. My beloved workshop manual has water damage and pages stuck together, from an unfortunate incident when I was told to wash the car as a kid and we discovered the boot seal doesn’t work properly (at all) and it’s caused by the amount of flex in the panel. I’m going to add the hinge brace bar, but want to make really sure it seals properly going forward and it’s not a lot of hassle adding a stiffening beam.

[@awalk5177]

@@munky2k I am seriously worried that you may wreck the shell with soda blast. Lotus only recommend sanding the body and not using any form of chemical to remove paint and certainly not blasting. You could blow holes through I am thinking. Bobbins are easily removed and new ones bonded in. I wouldn't even think about spending time on Heli coils in bobbins. I have a Europa for the past 45 years and a Marcos before that. You could get advice from Banks Europa Engineering about the body or Paul Matty. I thought Spyder only did chassis, but soda blasting is quite new to me so I may be wrong on that one. Good Luck.

[@awalk5177]

@@munky2k I have a Europa Workshop manual and would happily email you scanned pages from the body section if you wish ?

[@richardbatty3836]

Typically the area between the wheel arches on the floor below the rebar reinforcement splits when the steel corrodes and swells, my own elan has done this and a lot of others i have looked at , overall your bodyshell is pretty good .

[@munky2k]

Yeah, if it wasn’t for the micro-blisters we could have opted for a far less invasive repaint, the overall condition is a lot better than expected. That being said, I think it will present a good opportunity to upgrade the bobbin situation to make it a lot easier if the body ever needs to come off again.