MK DSG build (part 3) ladder gear.

[@n8taing612]

some suggestions: -To better the engagement of the sector and piston gear you can CA glue some Sorbothane or Neoprene pads to the cylinder head to move the plunger back a little but, however when you measure the engagement make sure you compress the piston with the spring as both materials compress (good and bad thing as it also reduces noise of the plunger hitting the cylinder head. -CA glue the piston linear gear to the piston body as for high rps or stress builds like a dsg rip the linear gear out of the piston. Friend of mine broke 3 pistons before CA gluing the one he is running in his gun for while now -Grind down that 2nd linear tooth on the piston linear gear as it is in the way of the sector gear when it catches the piston, which may cause premature engagement. You may also need to grind the 3rd tooth as well but its very unlikely if your angle allows enough clearance. Happy blasting

[@teshire9075]

Everyone asking about grinding the teeth off. No it hasn't any point in terms of pre engagement as those teeth never exit the cylinder, However on a high ROF build the lower piston weight also for quick return which means less chance of pre engagement. It's along the same lines as the Swiss cheese mod. As well as grinding the teeth off the piston it's a good idea to mix up some two part epoxy to glue the side of the ladder to the piston to remove the load off the little peice of plastic holding the rack in place at the back of the piston. Further more using a pom piston head can also help remove strain from the front of the gearbox by absorbing some of the shock of the piston hitting the cylinder head, along with using plastic cylinder heads and aoe adjustment with sorbo Or any other firm rubber pad on the cylinder head. TLDR; The removal of the teeth avoids pre engagement by lightening the piston to help it return quicker.

[@johnh3733]

Ive also seen some airsoft techs use spacers to precompress the springs in dsg setup.

[@adamfiala4083]

Great Video, Thanks for showing every step so well. Keep it up!!

[@Syncrusan]

Im still confused about to the total travel on the piston. I understand that more RPM equal less power because of the spring travel however what about the Cylinder and Barrel volume ratio, it would also affect that aswell. Wouldn't you need to compensate with a shorter barrel leading to less accuracy?

[@johannesjungnickel6867]

In fact you are right you will loose some energy bcause of the shorter piston distance. But only if you leave everything else the same. For example a stronger spring (m120 instead of m100) would increase your energy but keep in mind a stronger spring would stress out the motor a bit more so maybe a stronger motor is required or due to the increased stress the motor would be slowed down so a bit less rps. At least its a matter of sacrification. Even with a stronger spring you will increase your rps with a dsg but not that much as with the same spring you had before and dsg.

[@Hdiwldnfkelmen]

hey ! Nice vidéo !! You "Part 3" is not on your playlist "MK gearbox"

[@lowguidoschopshop]

Cheers I'll fix that

[@AlexandreBion83]

are you going to be able to work on this gear box soonish and finish your build? Cheers and love your videos

[@lowguidoschopshop]

Soon.

[@AlexandreBion83]

Low Guido's Chop Shop cheers! I’ve broke my cast metal gear box housing from my M4v4 using a 1.38 unequal spring. That’s sucks really. So i am thinking of following your path and use a cnc v2 box. I would love to send you a few pic to show you what happened to my blaster if you didn’t mind? I could ask you a few tips and tricks if I got stuck... I understand you’d be pretty busy though. Thanks again for your reply. Alex

[@troyw5832]

You could slip it but you need to lock the plunger to double rail it??????otherwise one hell of a spring set😎capacity????

[@andrewroberts5336]

Why can’t you use a spacer for the spring or a different spring guide that seats the spring towords the plunger to keep the FPS up??

[@johannesjungnickel6867]

You can but there is a limit for your spacer distance

[@LegionRabbit]

Dont use the bearing on the piston, significantly reduces weight

[@lowguidoschopshop]

Good tip

[@hiroshimascreamer5884]

Also using a POM piston head instead of alloy also reduces weight again and as Daniel said you don’t need the piston bearings as long as the spring retainer has bearings👍🏽

[@andrewroberts5336]

What’s the point of grinding of the extra teeth on the ladder gear?

[@michaelzilio4268]

Following

[@BS-dp7gq]

Can you do a test video on the TE RIS M4, I've been advised not to use an 11.1 volt battery, or can you just tell me if that is ill advisable - cheers, still luv'n the vids mate

[@johnh3733]

I may be wrong but i suspect they advise against an 11v battery because the TE RIS has nylon gears with a higher tension spring like a 1.25 or a 1.3mm. While it's unlikely to fail with a 11v battery it does increase the likelyhood of breaking your gears.

[@BS-dp7gq]

I bought the a gear version. (it's beautifully heavy) I assumed metal gears should be able to take an 11.1 volt, but I was advised in the shop when I bought it that an 11.1 volt could damage the blaster, I was hoping that was just over pre-caution because I was told the same thing about the AK-74M when I bought it, but I have seen people running 11.1 volts in them standard with just a hop-up at games without issue, I was hoping this might be the same type of deal.

[@BS-dp7gq]

I bought the "Metal" gear version I mean lol

[@johnh3733]

@Bluey S if it were me i would just run the 11v, anything that a higher rate of fire can break is pretty easy and cheap to fix. Considering a nylon gearbox and gears can handle 11v without* any dramas i dont see why a metal one shouldnt.

[@BS-dp7gq]

@John*H Yes thats the most logical thought train, and it has been my opinion also. Though I heard that this blaster runs bearings instead of brushes, and that makes some kind of risky difference when running a 11v. Guess theres only one way to find out.

[@jayly7453]

Good content .a lot of work left . But only using half the cylinder though ,it’s not something I like .

[@lowguidoschopshop]

thats DSG for you. honestly I don't recomend DSG at all. there are better ways of doing things. DSG is just a flex.

[@aisychannelone]

i hope you make a build for nwell m401...

[@lowguidoschopshop]

already did one.

[@aisychannelone]

@@lowguidoschopshop how about g36c bro??

[@fatcowismee4722]

Are you cutting the gears of just to reduce weight? Or other reasons

[@jeffrysuryono]

fatcowismee I think it is because to allow the piston to fully pushed down into the cylinder before the next teeth of gear engage the piston teeth. Or else the piston teeth might get engage before it returns to its original position causing weak cycle of shot.

[@johannesjungnickel6867]

@@jeffrysuryonothat should be fine. Your standard sector gear has almost half the gear with teeth. So the other half is the time where the piston goes forward. Dsg pulls the piston half the way back so about 1/4 of the gear. Another 1/4 hasnt teeth. As long as you are not increasing the speed of your Motor it should not be possible that the second sector is grabbing a tooth that its bot supposed to grab.

[@johannesjungnickel6867]

Also it would grab a tooth that still exists and not one of them that were grinded down

[@johannesjungnickel6867]

No offense, just arguing

[@fiochanel1688]

I have a unit M4 furnisher, if the save mode can not but still semi mode, how to deal with it ?.

[@lemoncherrygelato710]

I watched this hole vid and I just realized it’s for a jell blaster 😂

[@lowguidoschopshop]

A lot of principals are the same. So no loss

[@Dougline_]

The knowledge is the same for airsoft lol

[@Turbotrout420]

Hot tip all those teeth that were taken off were taken off for weight reduction and nothing more now the piston is only good for this build, watch some airsoft short stroke tuts and see they have no problem with all the teeth

[@johnh3733]

The teeth were taken off so that the second sector doesnt preengage before the piston completes its stroke, that's the whole point of short stroking, and especially if your running faster gear configurations like a 6:1. You may even need to short stroke single sector gear of builds that have super high rates of fire, typically 3-5 teeth.

[@n8taing612]

@@johnh3733 somewhat true, another point of short stroking is to reduce muzzle velocity while using a higher spring. Reason why people short stroke and use a higher spring is because using a weak spring with full stroke is very prone to over spin, resulting in double shot in semi. To combat that, people use springs like m120 or so to reduce the motor from pulling the piston back too far after the first shot and then remove teeth on the sector gear to fine tune muzzle velocity

[@dhain1982]

@@johnh3733 I don't see how this would be possible. Those teeth never come out of the cylinder (or only a couple of them come out so the sector can release them). Happy to be proved wrong but I don't think it is necessary to remove the unused teeth.

[@Turbotrout420]

@@johnh3733 it wont ever, unless u use a pathetic spring with an insane motor 😂

[@johnh3733]

@@Turbotrout420 I'll be honest, ive always short stroked the ladder on the dsg since that was the advice that was given to me to prevent thrashing the ladder. It would be one less thing to do if i didnt have to short the ladder, perhaps guido could run a full ladder on this build once he has put the gearbox together. ....'for science'

[@nuphhrffe875]

lol after 4 hours of filing i managed to file the teeth off

[@andrewroberts5336]

Lol you didn’t even have to

[@nuphhrffe875]

@@andrewroberts5336 how tho

[@feezhr4880]

the part i want to wait is tappet plate 😂😂

[@johnh3733]

Next to mag feed rate, tappet plate is the biggest bitch in dsg, just gotta take it slow and dont rush it like i did by over shaving the plate end. All the retailers seem to be in short supply of the bits and bobs at the moment.

[@ComradeJehannum]

First!!! Yeah if your putting it in something for play other than CQB you'll be shit out of luck.