LR3 Land Rover Discovery 3 Oil changes - front/rear diff and ZF6HP26 6 speed auto

[@Goonit83]

Champ! just got an lr3 and love the damn thing. Thanks for the tips!

[@Shanes_Shed]

No worries

[@chrisball8080]

Good stuff Shane. Nice to see a genuine mechanic at work and getting stuck in. I was tossing up whether to use the Penrite BMV or take a mortgage out on the LG6 liquid gold. The AULRO Forum members are a bit vague on what fluid is the best on price and availability. I have a 2011 RRS and have no idea what fluid has been in used in the past. I bought the car a year ago. I'll probably borrow your filter idea and lash out on the LG6 this time. The car came with a fairly good service history apart from the tranny service. I've changed all the other oils and fluids and the ZF's next in line. Anyway, all the best from the Sunshine Coast, Qld. Chris.

[@Shanes_Shed]

I've been running BMV for around the last 70,000km - which is about half the life if my trans since it was rebuilt (currently have nearly 150,000km on the rebuilt trans - the original failed at 218,000km). thanks for taking the time to throw a comment up.

[@chrisball8080]

@@Shanes_Shed Thanks Shane. I'll let you know what I've done after I drop the pan and filter. Better get some fluid first though! LOL. All the best.

[@AndyK.1]

Interesting video. The gearbox sumps have a couple of magnets in the bottom.

[@Shanes_Shed]

That they do, every little bit helps

[@admiralking]

Fantastic video! Thank you for your efforts.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Thank you, I appreciate the comment

[@PeterOZ61]

G'day Shane, good video, been enjoying watching all of them as time allows. I was getting the TC shudder so I flushed by D3 trans about 3 years ago and well overdue. I have the steel pan already so got the filter and gasket. Also replaced the electrical harness seal. I dropped the valve body, prob should have put a sonnax zip kit in it but wasn't sure I was up to that. Anyway replaced the bridge and pump seals. Ended up doing 3 drain / fill cycles to try ands get as much old fluid out, yeah cost me $$$$ for the LG6 fluid. Still was getting shudder in the TC so added a couple of tubes of Dr Tranny which settled it down. I still get slippage on a couple of gears which I live with as I'm not ready to drop $7 - 8 k for full rebuild etc. cheers Peter

[@Shanes_Shed]

Yeah is not a cheap fix getting the trans rebuilt (been there) so the longer you can push it out the better. Its surprising how much new oil you need to make a difference. I'm sure I'm getting close to doing another drain

[@PeterOZ61]

@@Shanes_Shed its all onroad driving these days so I am hoping to squeeze another 2 years out of it. I'll do a double flush in next month or two and see how it goes.

[@AndyK.1]

I think the way to get all the AT oil out is to 1 pump out like you did, leave oil line off. 2 leave overnight. 3. drain the remaining oil from the sump (probably get another 2 litres out). Some sumps have drain plugs.

[@Shanes_Shed]

The torque converter retains most of the oil that stays in the system. Not really any quick easy way to get it out apart from flushing it out with new oil

[@jamieboydmusic6956]

I love your channel Shane. Helped me so much. I have 2 Questions for you. I am about to service my transmission in the D3. 1. Did you make the switch to Penrite BMV and do a transmission oil change and even though some mixed with LG6 (that is left in the Torque converter) 2. Am I better off taking my cooler return line off or just removing my pan plug. (Mine has the plug). This service I will change the filter and the valve body seals.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Firstly, thanks for the kind words! As for your questions - I figured it was worthy of a video response, going to edit that now so keep an eye out

[@kennethfreeman1448]

Great video . The filter is anothet good option grtting ATF out.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Thanks very much for you comment.

[@davidsanderson7476]

Hey, Nice video. But you should make clear that the filler plugs of the front and rear diffs are not level plugs. If you fill the diffs up until the oil runs out of the filler plug, you will have to much oil in them. So be careful.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Hi David, thanks for taking the time to comment. Very early on when I first got my disco I measured out the "correct" amount and filled the diffs. The fill level with that method for me had the level less than 5mm under the fill plugs. The difference in oil from the measured amount to the fill plugs is in my opinion insignificant and not worth worrying about. I'll do a new video on the subject next diff oil change

[@wilsonng911]

Great video. Will be servicing the diffs and trans too. What oil to you use for the transfer case just out of curiosity?

[@Shanes_Shed]

Hi and thanks for the comment. I use Royal Purple Syncromax for the transfer case

[@Breslinmusic]

Great help 👍

[@Shanes_Shed]

Glad it helped

[@danielchia1667]

Hi Shane, awesome video. The transmission fluid take for me was 5 litres out and 3 litres in. Every time I cycle thru the transmission would only take 100 to 200 mls is there a faster way to get the transmission fluid in? Also what fluid do you use for the transfer case fluid? TF0870 or something else? Cheers Dan

[@Shanes_Shed]

Hi Dan, thanks for you comments. I've never really had an issue getting oil into the transmission. Once filled and the engine running its pumping fluid through the trans so it should in theory be at the correct level once you complete the final topup. For the transfer case I use royal purple syncromax - run for over 150,000km in the transfer on this oil with no issues so far

[@robvanderwilk7159]

Hi Shane, interesting video. It reminds me to change the front and rear diff oils 👍. Is the installation of the magnefine filter related to the failure of your gearbox? Did the cooling circuit cause metal to come back to the gearbox? I thought it was a neat solution - can never have too much filtration!! My LR3 has around 295k on the clock. A slight vibration at around 90 kph lead me to drop my ATF fluid. I installed a new sump with separate oil filter. I topped up with Penrite ATF - the vibration at 90 kph is gone but now have a significant flare in first to second and smaller flare in second to third. Where did you get your trans rebuilt? - I’m also from Perth. Keep up the good work with your channel 👍👍

[@Shanes_Shed]

Thanks for the comment, greatly appreciated. I installed the magnefine after the rebuild to give the new trans the best chance of a long life. The cooler circuit is just a convenient location for it to go. I had Automac transmissions remove the gearbox and they were going to do a rebuild, but once they stripped it they determined the damage was to great to risk and they sent it to ZF in Sydney as they have bench testing facilities. Considering I was living in Tom Price at the time it was the best option to avoid/minimise any potential warranty issues.

[@any0n378]

Shane, what exactly failed on your gearbox? From my own research, either the solenoids or seals quit in the mechatronix pack, or bushings on the E-drum fail. Mechatronix should be the first port of call for any transmission problems. Install a Sonax zip kit and replace all solenoids. After this you have to reset the transmission adaptation values, and go through a relearn procedure. If this doesn't solve the problem, I think it would be fair to say that your problem relates to bushings on the drums. There is a lot of info on BMW owners forums on these ZF6HP26 transmissions. The GAP tool can reset the transmission adaptations, but not view it (I have discussed this with the manufacturer). It is very important to reset adaptations, otherwise the old values will be used, and the problem may persist. The relearn procedure is quite involved, so I suggest searching for "ZF6HP26 relearn procedure). The ZF6HP26 is a very good transmission. The problem is Land Rover stating that it never needs oil changes.

[@dennisvicden]

Great video Shane, I have a shudder in third I think at 2k rpm, do you think a mega flush would solve that.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Hi Dennis, thanks for the question. It could help to improve the shift quality, if there is no luck with the flush then addition of a tube of Dr.Tranny additive could help. However I think for best chance of a fix I'd look at installing a sonnax zip kit

[@dennisvicden]

@@Shanes_Shed thanks for the advice, I am looking at a long term fix. Installing a zip kit goes beyond my abilities so will have to take it to Dovers Rovers!

[@Shanes_Shed]

@@dennisvicden Yeah you'd need to be comfortably pulling a valve body from a trans for that one - certainly not within everyone's ability that's for sure

[@laurentlazzarini1344]

Hello. I am French, I have an LR3 V8. The "Magnefine 1/2" filter is connected to the automatic gearbox circuit, but the gearbox already has a filter with magnets in the oil pan, so why add this extra filter? Cordially :)

[@Shanes_Shed]

I Laurent, thanks for your comment. There is more than just magnets inside the magnefine filter. There is also a normal filter media that is a lot more efficient than the pan filter (which is generally not much more than a strainer to keep the big particles out)for all the non ferrous wear particles. This just helps in keeping the contamination particles under control. I would have personally liked to install a larger filter for this purpose, but the inline style of the magnefine just works so easily in the available space. And thanks for subscribing to the channel.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Also if your interested in seeing whats inside the filters, then have a look at this video (not one of mine) kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKiypKiwoMpggbM

[@JR-es1dz]

Great video thanks! Let me know all lr3 have this transmition filter? I did never see that on my lr3 4.4 v8 thanks

[@Shanes_Shed]

no they don't, thats something that I've added. Standard they just have the pan pikup filter