Land Rover L538 Evoque L550 Discovery Sport VVT Actuator Failure and Timing Repair PART 1 of 2

[@NiXFiX]

Thank you for watching! Please like and subscribe. If I helped you complete your project, please consider Super Thanks: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6CXmGNuf9-YsM0 Thanks, Nick

[@dljunior2852]

Freaking outstanding. I just finished doing this very thing to my daughter's 2012 Evoque. Although I'm finished (Praise the Lord) I still elected to watch your video for confirmation. These little engines are a chore with all the locking mechanisms and unusual design. Can't wait to see your part 2.

[@zarkodordevic6873]

😮 thanks. You are really man. My daughter have Land Rover discovery sport 2016 she. I changed battery two days ago ago because watch your video. Where you live. I am from Louisville Kentucky. Wish you be my mechanic. All best Sincerely

[@NiXFiX]

I'm in Arizona. Thank you for the kind words!

[@dietrichhertel9366]

When you said F35, I was like, "dang, you gotta be in the west valley, come fix my car" lol I"m out in Buckeye. Your videos are great so far! :)

[@NiXFiX]

@@dietrichhertel9366 haha! Yep. In Buckeye now. Just moved and have a giant shop now. More videos soon. Just have to get settled in, unpack the garage stuff, and get organized.

[@r7boatguy]

So my '15 Evoque runs ok, but has just developed the exhaust roar at low revs and has thrown a bunch of codes. I removed the valve cover (what a pain that was, the right rear bolt is obscured by a bracket with a bolt on the back of the engine and getting to the worm drive screw for that intake at the back sucks). Anyway the VVT gear on the inlet needs replacing. My question is if it's necessary to do all the other work you did? I assume I will need to lock the camshafts in place and also the crankshaft?

[@SAMEntalhealth]

Bro quick question you see where the fuel pump regulation is, on the right of the engine right where you have the Grey cover on it, write down on the back behind it straight down below the manifold cover is attached to it. At least on the model I'm working on, and I got every single damn bolt loose from the manifold cover and that's the only thing in my way. And I do not know how to get it off! I have to get it off by tomorrow hopefully you read this !:-( :-(

[@alexghita7451]

hi, can you tell me please where is located the oil jet piston valve solenoid for D.S 2.0 diesel please? thanks

[@XhyjhaetMarshall]

With the solenoids how do you remove them ? Do you just slide them out?

[@dustinmacomber4565]

How do you get the high pressure fuel line off? I see you already have it disconnected

[@deanbailey3701]

Thanks, I will watch that when I get back at it. If there is anything else you could share from your experience with this it would be greatly appreciated.

[@jamesward5721]

If the pistons do hit the valves on these, the cam lobes "give" as they are pressed on not cast - so there should be little to no damage beyond replacing the cam/failed chains/tensioners, blah blah.. The old "4 welding rods down the holes, get them level", thing leaves the 4 pistons level at the halfway mark, so you can undo/redo the cams safely.

[@alexg8460]

Do you think someone with not much experience can do it? I’ve done started, radiators, water pumps etc ?

[@NiXFiX]

It's really all about determination. If you have done those things, and are determined to do this, all you need is a procedure ofrvideo reference to follow! That's my opinion.

[@alexg8460]

@@NiXFiXwould you do this job if we brought you the car ? Maybe you aren’t to far from east coast ?

[@NiXFiX]

@@alexg8460 I'm honored that you considered me. Unfortunately, I am on the West coast (Arizona).

[@musclecar62]

Wow. I thought you need to take the entire front end off and removing the transmission to replace these things. I have a 2017 discovery sport hse with 2.0. How can I do a quick check to see if my engine is the exact same as yours? And do you have a link to a complete set for replacement??

[@NiXFiX]

Yeah, no need to take the whole front end off. Just a quick parts check of the valve cover, it is the same part number for 2016 and 2017. So...probably the same. I don't know what you mean by "link to complete set for replacement" ...if you mean by a complete set of timing components, look at the video description. I have a bunch of links there for the parts I used.

[@Geepers2525]

Excellent tutorial! Thank you for posting 👏🏻👍

[@jackkelly8677]

Talk about timing. I am about to do this on an LR. Thanks for the upload.

[@NiXFiX]

Awesome! You're welcome. Good luck. Come back and comment any questions you might have.

[@bdredden71]

On mine there's some sort of vacuum tube on the right side of the intake manifold that I can't disconnect. It has a red rub that goes into the intake and it moves a little but doesn't pull out and I d don't see a way to release it?

[@NiXFiX]

Push the red piece in while pushing the hose in. Then, keep the red piece held in and pull hose out.

[@bdredden71]

So here's what happened to mine. Intake oil relief valve came out. Shocker, I know... Well, it got wedged on one of the VVT fins. Stopped the cam and the cam snapped. Valves and pistons survived. Guess I'm "lucky". 😂

[@deanbailey3701]

I am have the exact same issue but my chain is bust as well. If I do have valves damaged and I need to remove the head can this be done in the vehicle? Would you have any information to share for this?

[@NiXFiX]

It can be done with the engine in the vehicle. The engine is real close to the Ford 2.0 ecoboost. Watch my videos on that to see the head removed in the car.

[@deanbailey3701]

Thanks for this the video will help me greatly. I did a leak down test and have some leakage over the amount your recommend. I also found a broken chain and guides broken. There are missing chain links, I would assume I will have to remove the base pan to find anything that maybe in the motor still. Any help or suggestions again will be great.@@NiXFiX

[@NiXFiX]

Yeah. Going to have to pull the oil pan and find the pieces.

[@varindervirdi9870]

My Man! Fantastic video! I am doing this job right now on my wife's 2017 Land Rover Discovery Sport which we bought new. Only 46k miles. Failure mode is exactly as outlined in the TSB. Unfortunately, I am stuck on removing the intake manifold. I cannot seem to figure out how to remove the vacuum line feeding the driver's side of the intake manifold coming from the vacuum pump side. It is distinctive looking in that both male and female parts have a red ring around it. I have no idea how to release it without breaking it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would attach a picture here if I could... .

[@NiXFiX]

It releases like a Chinese finger trap. Use a flatblade screwdriver to push the inner red ring in towards the intake. With the inner ring held pushed in, pull the vacuum line out.

[@trucks809]

Hi, My wife has a 2017 with 110k miles. The check engine light came on, and it has less power than before. The codes are P000A (A cam position), P0011 (possible VVT actuator) and P0299 (turbo under boost) it has an exhaust smell, so it may have something loose near the turbo. The engine still runs fine, so it should not have internal damage. I don't think she should drive it in-case a timing component breaks, which could cause internal damage. We are also in Arizona. Would you be able to work on it for us? I could probably do this, but It would take me a long time and I don't have much time to dedicate to it.

[@NiXFiX]

Hello. Unfortunately I am overwhelmed at the moment. Working on cars and filming these videos is a hobby. I have my step dad's 37 chevy (with LS 5.3L V8) in the garage right now with a cylinder head off for lifter replacements, I'm finishing another range rover, and have two more range rovers in line. Sorry I can't help right now but thanks for asking!

[@bdredden71]

Did you figure it out?

[@trucks809]

We ended up trading it

[@jpmoya2835]

Hey how did you get the timing cover off ? I’m having problems taking it out

[@NiXFiX]

Watch at 33:22

[@SAMEntalhealth]

Fuck those machines LOL just got done well not fully but doing the VVT exhaust and intake solenoids, it took forever to get them out due to the bracket that holds on the fuel regulator. I didn't know what the hell was going on and then I'm sitting there thing out, they are a pain in the ass and I hope I don't have to work on another one of these for a long time and then jaguar or Land Rover😅😅

[@johnsullivan6532]

You mentioned that Chinese Actuator in this Rover was not made in USA or in England. I don't believe that ANY Rover actuators are made in USA or England. Original Actuators were marked FOMOCO (FordMotorCompany), probably made in China; they failed if you looked cross eyed at them, with soft steel stopping pins that deformed, and extremely hard (maybe cast iron) bodies that chipped out, untilhole was so large that the stopping pin and spring fell out. I think that ALL actuators in Rovers are made in China or Taiwan?

[@NiXFiX]

Who knows, but with a brand name like that stamped on the part it is a for-sure thing that it is Chinese!

[@unprofessionalmechanic8466]

What a great write-up, well, video tutorial, wish I found it sooner. We should be able to add multiple likes for this. I just had to do the same in 2015 evoque. Except Exhaust VVTi thing did not fail (i replaced it anyway) but intake one, loose pices got under the chain and chain broke, causing bent valves. A) this is European Ford Ecoboost 2.0 engine, differenxe North American ecoboosts VS EU, exhaust manifold i American version is formed with cylinder head and turbo bolts directly to it. EU one has traditional 4 exhaust ports, manifold that bolts to it. B) I think before you undo the crankshaft pulley, regardless of what happened to camshafts, Crankshaft pulley VS crnkshaft itself are still in-time, so if you lock the crankshaft pulley itself with the tool and then install the the lock that goes instead of starter, you do not need to remove CV driveshaft and install that pin, because crankshaft is locked in-time... Sorry, am not English languge carrier, but does it make sense?

[@NiXFiX]

Perhaps. You have to take the crankshaft pulley off to remove timing cover to get to the chain and other timing components so I guess as long as you align the crankshaft pulley (with tool the goes on crank pulley) and then lock the flywheel with the lock that goes in where the starter goes, you might not have to use the 3rd TDC lock/stop that requires you to remove the CV shaft. The American ecoboost doesn't require you to remove the CV shaft to install the TDC stop (I have 2 videos on doing this engine in a USA market Ford Escape).

[@unprofessionalmechanic8466]

It just makes sense, you lock the crankshaft at Zero position to begin with, it stays like that trough whaever that you need to do, then you allign the pulley back with the same tool and supposedly everything goes back to where it originally was, as far as Pulley VS Crankshaft.

[@unprofessionalmechanic8466]

Also, I replaced exhaust manifold with solid ironcast 1 piece one bacause original one was leaking trough welds, what an idiotic idea!

[@unprofessionalmechanic8466]

Also used titanium allow exhaust manifold studs and head went back on APR studs. I still get "temporary 0016 error" Ordered from LRDirect and just received both camshaft sensors, crank sensor and both camshaft solenoids. Looks like you've done similar engines before, any suggestions? Thank you. Roman.

[@unprofessionalmechanic8466]

Nick, may I ask what State are you in? I am actually planning, well, technically speaking, doing the same mechanic special thing with European cars :), but this is my hobby #2, have something else as hobby #1