Changing Rear Brakes Discovery Sport. EPB Trick used.

[@stalwartram1997]

Thank you so much for putting this video together. I watched it several time before attempting the process, and the outcome was flawless. Also, to anyone else watching this video, this process worked on my 2022 Discovery Sport.

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@julianhull9110]

On the Freelander 2 (the forerunner to the DS) you can put the EPB into service mode very easily - might work on DS too. Putting electric hand brake into service mode before changing pads. Procedure is: Ensure its in park or neutral and the park brake deactivated and ignition turned on. 1. Press and hold the parking brake switch in the release position. 2. Wait 2 seconds 3. Press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position. 4. Wait 2 seconds 5. Turn ignition off and on immediately whilst still finger on park button and foot on throttle. 6. An audible noise will confirm service mode, it will also be displayed on dash. You will hear the brake motors activate for a while. Deactivation with ignition on. 1. Press and hold the parking brake switch in the apply position. 2. Wait 2 seconds 3. Press and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position. 4. Wait 2 seconds 5. Turn ignition off and on again. keeping finger on park button and foot on throttle.

[@grahamwoodier5066]

Thanks for your video. I found it really useful for my recent rear pad/disc change. My car has covered 49,000 miles and this was the first pad change (front ones are still OK). The wear sensor hadn't tripped but the discs were in a very rusty state - especially on the inside so I decided to replace them. One point though. It tells you how to stop the parking brake from being applied when the car is stationary and the ignition off in the Owners Handbook. Mind you, it isn't worded very clearly and would be very easy to miss.

[@comeinhandynow]

Glad it helped, thanks for your input.

[@matthewhaddon599]

The discs are in pretty poor condition and would benefit being changed…..torque for pins is 28nm / 21ft/lb. You do not need to use loctite on these although I have used a small amount on the calliper bracket bolts on mine…110nm 81ft/lb for these. The small countersunk bolt in the disc is 35nm just for anyone who may need this.

[@andrewlucas8595]

Thanks very much for taking the time to do this also great tip of keeping the parking brake switched of most helpful I done this on my Discovery Sport 2016

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers

[@Mr_Springy]

Hi, thanks for posting this video I used it to swap the rear pads on my 2015 DS HSE. Only issue i had is that i own the icarsoft v2.0 LR diagnostic tool and it wouldn’t retract the parking brake. Your solution saved the day! Cheers 🍻

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@Mr_Springy]

@@comeinhandynow no problem… for anyone reading this I discovered the issue with icarsoft, my Disco is an auto so you need to be in neutral then the EPB retraction operates properly, as I believe theyy are linked through ECUs. You do need to use the software to reapply EPB once you finish. The guide video really helps and shows a workaround if you haven’t an OBD reader

[@pa1668]

Brilliant description and one handed filming

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks.

[@mobiledmanmobileguru381]

Thanks for the video . From a bloke across the pond

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers. Welcome.

[@antonytj2003]

Great work mate...❤

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks

[@petermilne44]

As per @julianhull9110 comments below, on the Discovery Sport you can easily put the handbrake (EPB) into service mode. The workshop manual covers this (copies on a CD available on the usual auction website for a fiver). This should be done so the EPB adjusts correctly to the new pads and/or discs. The procedure is very easy but make sure you are on level ground first! 1. With the car in park and handbrake on, switch on the ignition and just release the handbrake (you'll need your foot on the brake to do this). Take your foot off the brake 2. Then press and hold the handbrake down in the release position and keep holding it down 3. wait one second and then press and hold down the accelerator pedal fully and keep holding it down 4. wait one second and then switch the ignition OFF and back ON immediately 5. You'll hear the EPB releasing again into the service position. You can let go of the brake and accelerator. A warning will appear on the dash saying brake fault and then it displays that the EPD is in service mode. You can then turn off the ignition. the handbrake red warning light will keep flashing for 30 seconds When you change the pads you can gently push the brake piston back in using a screwdriver levered against the pads whilst the caliper is still on the brake. If this doesn't work you may have a seized piston and might need to use a piston tool or clamp. To reactivate the EPB, it's the same procedure as above but you are lifting the handbrake for one second as follows: 1. switch on the ignition and lift the handbrake and keep it held up 2. wait one second and then press and hold down the accelerator pedal fully and keep holding it down 3. wait one second and then switch the ignition OFF and back ON again immediately. 4. You'll hear the EPB setting itself back into position and the car display will say brake fault for a second but then clear. You can then start the car and test drive carefully.

[@DF-hi2dd]

Thank you! Your video helped tremendously as I wasn't familiar with LR brakes. Great job!

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks

[@justinmajor1346]

InstaBlaster.

[@josepelliccia9862]

Good job the way I did it the electric system put it on an neutral disconnect the battery I went to advance Auto rent the tool to turn the piston for $145 when I return it no charge 🇵🇷

[@dntlss]

"Electronic parking brake" ha ha ha ha ha, my boss asked me today if i could change the rear pads on his land rover,as a person that has done probably 100 brake jobs in his life i took a look at them and the whole time I'm wondering to myself "why is this back wheel not moving?? and where is the emergency brake??? ha ha ha, man you sure are a life saver with your video,hes supposed to buy the parts next week, sure glad i watched this video,fucking cars gets crazier every day!!

[@comeinhandynow]

Yep, things move on.

[@dntlss]

@@comeinhandynow I did have one more question if i may and thank you for your input,i understand all this very well but whats behind putting the car in neutral, leaving it running, disconnecting the EPB and then turning the car off? i have seen several of these videos on other cars that have EPB and they also take it apart and back off the motor etc but they never did the procedure i mentioned at the beginning of this question,I'm guessing when one turns these Land Rover's off they lock the wheels up, hence the procedure and other brands of cars dont? thanks again for your kind insight.

[@comeinhandynow]

I found that the EPB will reapply after some minutes, hence why it must be disconnected. There is a way to permanently back off the EPB by issuing commands to the ECU but you need the right software. There are probably other modern cars that operate the same way since these systems are often used by many.

[@dntlss]

@@comeinhandynow Thank you much for your input, appreciate it.

[@amandeeprandhawa8038]

Thank you sir Awesome video your save my money 💰 God bless you 🙏 👌

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks.

[@thetridentclub9219]

Thanks. V usefull

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers

[@golfwagen4173]

I have not changed epb yet, but it is waiting for me on the toyote and on vw

[@Nik-hm5um]

Hi, congratulations on your work, excellent method. Is it possible to push the brake piston with the car with the engine running and the brake off? Isn't it faster and you avoid dismantling additional pieces?

[@comeinhandynow]

You could try but I have a feeling that the problem with other methods is that after a while the car would reapply the parking brake.

[@sistercalhoun4444]

I wish you would have showed every step like Chrisfix.... but Thanks for showing me what you should me .....

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers

[@mark711991]

Will give it ago in the next day or two them hex heads are bad to work with what size hex do I need?

[@comeinhandynow]

This is the 5mm to 1/4 drive that you need to go with a 1/4” torque wrench: amzn.to/4aLGQph

[@mustafathechosenone]

Thanks. Great video and help. 😊

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers.

[@samuelbatey9033]

Thanks a lot. Very useful.

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers

[@Proelite911]

Thank you so much, changed easy

[@comeinhandynow]

I’m glad it helped.

[@warrenhintonjr]

Is it common after changing all four pads that the pedal is noticably softer upon applying the breaks? Just changed them for my neighbor and when I drove his around, noticed the brake pedal had a lot of play. Still has full reservoir of fluid. Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

I wouldn't say it was common but the pads will need a bit of time to ‘bed in’ especially if only the pads were changed and not discs as well.

[@bobbyu8991]

Probably because you watched this

[@Trevmadigan]

Disks are well shot!

[@comeinhandynow]

Nah, they were easily recovered, see earlier comments and there is a link to how they later, all fine eventually.

[@comeinhandynow]

Here we are, a pic of how they cleaned up later, copied from an earlier comment: “Here’s a pic of these discs 9 months later from a link on an earlier comment reply. www.dropbox.com/s/hsg51t73xmnzn3c/IMG_0368.jpg?dl=0

[@handycrowd]

@@comeinhandynow Thanks for that pic, I too was puzzled by how they looked. Normally on an older car they look like that once the calliper isn't sliding 100% freely. But your pins etc looked clean it's a bit weird how the discs had rusted up like that, esp. on such a young car. Anyhoo, the new pads and a good lube up sorted it! Thanks for the video, just bought a 2015 HSE Luxury and loving it so far. Just done a big service and changed the timing belt etc. Plan on keeping it a very long time :-)

[@14POLAND88]

Thanks for the video, very informative. And you sound like Tyson Fury :D

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers

[@anthonyrobins1077]

Was it really necessary to remove the EPB motor now that the P/Brake is now 'OFF', you surely would have had sufficient clearance to remove the caliper. Also, is there not a risk when manually winding back the P/Brake spindle that you might still have partial P/Brake set when the connector is replaced causing unnecessary drag. On the rusty disk situation. Apparently LR used a faulty manufactured batch of rear rotors on the early DS and they issued a technical bulletin on this fact. Mine had the same problem (bought as 3 year old used car) and I bitched hard enough to the LR Dealer showing them the bulletin and they replaced for free, told them my local MOT station put it down as a potential safety issue.

[@comeinhandynow]

Yes you have to remove the connector to the motor to stop it coming back on, which it will do as a safety measure. The EPB will reapply when all back together, stopping at fully braked position. When EPB is off it will back off a set amount from that point to give no drag. The rust on the disc wasn’t much of an issue and actually disappeared when I used slightly rougher Mintex pads and drove it. All discs rust when left exposed and unused. These may have rusted more than others but still not a safety issue in my opinion.

[@comeinhandynow]

Here’s a pic of these discs 9 months later from a link on an earlier comment reply. www.dropbox.com/s/hsg51t73xmnzn3c/IMG_0368.jpg?dl=0

[@anthonyrobins1077]

Now see why you have to wind back P/Brake spindle so that the main piston can itself be withdrawn to allow new pads to be installed, obviously the EPB gradually moves to new position as pads wear thus restricting the return of the main piston when it has to be set back for the new pads. I have seen a video for LR Discovery (same EPB type) where the Guy did not remove motor but just removed connector and applied 12v to the motor pins to reverse EPB to Service position. Saves having to start engine and set P/Brake off and then having to remove motor.

[@pograves2635]

By any chance could you tell me what size bit to use for the caliper guide pins? I appreciate it

[@comeinhandynow]

Sorry I don't have the exact size but one of these bits out of this set is probably what fitted: amzn.to/3lE6Dpy

[@z14film31]

Thank you

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers

[@dlccruz]

I replaced the brake pads, but now there's a message on the dashboard saying the brake needs adjustment

[@comeinhandynow]

Hmm, check you’ve assembled everything ok and plugged everything back in again and test it the handbrake is actually working ok. Try off/on a few times.

[@rickgill6455]

Thanks for the video, did you get any warning lights on the dash when the connector was unplugged? I’m about to do mine soon

[@comeinhandynow]

Nothing that didn’t go away when new wear sensor put in. There is the initial warning light saying pads worn of course , which is why you are changing them. That goes away after changing pads/ sensor..

[@user-gu9qx6gd4d]

I need a video on changing front left brake line 😪

[@comeinhandynow]

It would be very similar to the job on it’s earlier model I should think: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hWHSap6brK9kmKMsi=qGmWNYrpBYIepHlY

[@petzbuzz2825]

Many thanks great video, although i wish i came across this video before i tried to replace myself. Didn't remove the connector before removing the calibre and pads and then the EPB self activated and pushed out the piston fully ! Doh ! Managed to get the piston re-engage and pushed back just enough to get new pads back and brakes seem to working properly but now a warning notification keeps coming up "Park Brake Requires Calibration Apply Foot and Park Brake" any recommendation on how to fix/reset ?

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. “Press the brake pedal and pull the EPB switch up to apply the EPB. This is required to reset the EPB system. The EPB will now function correctly.” - from : www.ownerinfo.landrover.com/document/LS/2016/T19935/18970_en_GBR/proc/G1799396 Also did you bleed any air from the hydraulics system after the piston popped out, hopefully you did.

[@petzbuzz2825]

@@comeinhandynow already did but no luck. After a fairy long wind the warning appears again. Could it be the position of the piston no wound to the same position of the left ?

[@malcolmlane-ley2044]

Brilliant, thanks very much

[@comeinhandynow]

cheers

[@turbowank16v]

Hi.i came here from the tiguan video.has these epb systems done away with the wind back style calipers.are they a thing of the past now.

[@comeinhandynow]

Yes

[@mgtd1138]

Does this trick work for an 18 RR Velar?

[@comeinhandynow]

I should think it would.

[@andrewsheehan3452]

Once the job of changing the pads is complete, will the parking brake come on as soon as you turn the ignition on? Are there any particular steps that i would need to take before I power on the car?

[@andrewsheehan3452]

Excellent video btw.

[@comeinhandynow]

Nothing special, it works after assembling.

[@comeinhandynow]

@@andrewsheehan3452 Thanks.

[@andrewsheehan3452]

Changed them no problem. Thanks again for a great video. Would probably not have attempted them had it not been for your guide.

[@comeinhandynow]

@@andrewsheehan3452 Great! Well done and thanks.

[@benbranscombe6863]

Is there anything different when replacing the front brake pads?

[@comeinhandynow]

A lot easier on the front as no parking brake to worry about

[@benbranscombe6863]

@@comeinhandynow last question do you have a recommendation for the front brakes to purchase

[@comeinhandynow]

@@benbranscombe6863 I now always buy Mintex pads as they seem to offer more grip and on this discovery sport they kept the rear discs relatively clear of rust, better than the originals. I think there are some buying links in the video description..

[@shawnmartins169]

You're absolutely wrong with the fact that those rotors are shot he should have replaced them with the brakes I was really hoping you could could have shown all of us how to turn off that worn brake indicator that would have been great other than that great video

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. The worn brake indicator goes off when the pad wear indicator cable on the pads is replaced. The rotors(discs) are still fine by the way. Bedded in nicely with the new pads.

[@dalvarez621]

Yeah those new pads will have uneven wear and will probably cause vibration while braking. Always replaced or machine rotors according to spec.

[@comeinhandynow]

Although that would be nice, actually in my case after making this video and running the car on the old (rusted but not too worn out discs) it neither vibrated or had any wear issues. 9 months later the discs actually look better and are still fine. It’s not always necessary to replace the disc as well as pads. Here’s a pic of these discs now: www.dropbox.com/s/hsg51t73xmnzn3c/IMG_0368.jpg?dl=0

[@18800800VIEWS]

Your check engine light is on, next video: how to change engine 🤣

[@comeinhandynow]

No, nothing else wrong, just the brake pad worn warning, and engine not started yet either.

[@TheYouTubeMechanic]

Which truck is this?

[@comeinhandynow]

Landrover Discovery Sport. Had it 3 years, great SUV.

[@j0rzeh]

you can just use a 12V power supply source to rewind the calliper :P

[@comeinhandynow]

Yes I should think you could.

[@jamesmalkie7239]

Those discs are absolutely worn out, I'd also look at something being seized up with such uneven wear....

[@comeinhandynow]

They were fine, actually after making this video and running the car on the old (rusted but not too worn out discs) it didn’t have any issues. 9 months later the discs actually look better and are still fine. It’s not always necessary to replace the disc as well as pads. Here’s a pic of these discs 9 months later in a link on an earlier comment reply. www.dropbox.com/s/hsg51t73xmnzn3c/IMG_0368.jpg?dl=0

[@DrifterDavid]

I don''t know about land rovers but you definitely don't want to do this on every car. Its put into maintenance mode and back out to calibrate the distance to the new pads and to make sure each side matches. If it doesn't then you can end up after a few months with your brake calipers locking up and depending on which model vehicle you possibly have to purchase new calipers in order to fix it.

[@comeinhandynow]

I don’t believe you are right. There is no calibration involved in the process, the motor just stops when a certain resistance and increased motor current is measured as the brake is applied. It then backs off a fixed amount from that point to release them. If you want you could say it is calibrated every time the parking brake is applied, not what I would call calibration though. If it is not behaving correctly after doing this job it will be obvious from testing the park brake and foot brake. Of course both were operating correctly after this. You would certainly not have your brake calipers locking up since the brakes will always do the backing off from the parked position so that is just nonsense.

[@kobudokai1]

"Disc's aren't too bad....." mate those disc's are knackered and should fail on its next MOT, i say should because i know some test stations out there will pass it but that should definitely be a fail.

[@comeinhandynow]

They aren’t. It didn’t. Just needed surface rust cleaning off. Main fail for discs should be based on min thickness. IMHO.

[@kobudokai1]

@@comeinhandynow excessive pitting like that is definitely a fail, that dark area on the pic after using it is still corrosion just with the surface polished. The darkened area will dissipate heat differently and expand more when hot affecting braking perform. After use more than likely will pass and most of the time will feel ok but it is still far from right and braking efficiency won't be as good as it could be once hot.

[@stephhen61]

@@kobudokai1 Mot wise those discs are a pass and advise. There's no failure for pitting, the failure is, "Brake disc in such a condition that it is seriously weakened." That been said, I would replace them when fitting new pads

[@kobudokai1]

@@stephhen61 I'm sure some would pass and advise, but with the amount of surface corroded on that disc it's a fail as far as im concerned. The key term used is "to excess" and that is corroded to excess in my opinion, but different testers have different options on what is excessive.

[@stephhen61]

@@kobudokai1 That's my point, there's no failure for corrosion or pitting on brake discs. If testers are failing corrosion under seriously weakened, then they are applying incorrect test standards, and if caught face points or loose their ticket. I know before computerisation some testers were failing discs for that as the could write an incorrect failure. The most common mistake about MOT's is people apply service standards to a MOT, but it's a bare minim safety check. Basically you have to ask yourself,. Would that brake disc at the time of test, is it seriously weakened and likely to fail and cause a possible accident

[@bobbyu8991]

20 dollar rotors 😅

[@comeinhandynow]

A fair bit more time and money $50 for discs/rotors ( ebay uk: ebay.to/2ok85FJ ) and a fair bit more time as well. No point when the discs are still fine. See previous comment: (... in my case after making this video and running the car on the old (rusted but not too worn out discs) it neither vibrated or had any wear issues. 9 months later the discs actually look better and are still fine. It’s not always necessary to replace the disc as well as pads. Here’s a pic of these discs now: www.dropbox.com/s/hsg51t73xmnzn3c/IMG_0368.jpg?dl=0 )

[@jamespiddington7754]

Those discs were shot and its pointless doing the pads without changing the discs when they're in this condition. When this type of rust (slightly shiny & polished look) appears on the discs it is not worn off by the pads (light daily surface rust IS worn off). The rust on these discs however will just cut into the pad. Your effective braking surface area is seriously reduced. Either replace the discs or at a minimum get them re-finished at a machine shop (assuming this doesn't take them below the minimum thickness). Discs are pretty cheap these days so re-finishing is rarely cost effective unless you have a mate with a lathe.

[@comeinhandynow]

I disagree. They were fine for at least the next year after renovating them. The more aggressive (more copper content) Mintex pads cleaned up the discs even more than my surface grind off and the surface was smooth flat shiny metal after some use. I agree discs are relatively cheap and should be replaced if under the min thickness but I don’t agree with needless throwing away (hopefully recycling) existing discs that still have a lot more life in them. Too much stuff gets thrown away nowadays instead of being fixed or renovated. A lot of energy and CO2 just wasted.

[@comeinhandynow]

Also, here is a similar comment I gave from a while ago, with picture : “ A fair bit more time and money $50 for discs/rotors ( ebay uk: ebay.us/LCWc1Q ). No point when the discs are still fine. See previous comment: (... in my case after making this video and running the car on the old (rusted but not too worn out discs) it neither vibrated or had any wear issues. 9 months later the discs actually look better and are still fine. It’s not always necessary to replace the disc as well as pads. Here’s a pic of these discs now: www.dropbox.com/s/hsg51t73xmnzn3c/IMG_0368.jpg?dl=0

[@simonsays653]

James you are 100% correct. Those discs are shot and the effective braking surface has been halved. They look like the discs on my F-Pace I just replaced and the inside disc surfaces were a LOT worse. Either a light skim/resurface or replace discs. Note: JLR brake rotors/discs have been suspect quality , have no anticorrosion protecting coating. The outsides rusts and gradually the rusted surface migrates to the disc braking surface like we see here. Lately Jag changed their disc and the pad compound to improve. Comeinhandynow may have got away with replacing just his pads but his braking performance will still be reduced. In my case today on my 2017 F-Pace, changing the discs and pads made a HUGE improvement to braking and I used Non-OEM , GEOMET coated discs.

[@Batemarrmb]

Never disconnect electrical connections with ignition on terminal 30

[@comeinhandynow]

why? it's only 12v. If an error comes up it will clear after reconnecting.

[@AveGuy1]

To release parking brakes, start car, turn off car, within 5 seconds press and hold down parking brake button, electronic parking brake has been released. I guess your method works too.

[@comeinhandynow]

I seem to recall, on all of those sorts of methods that I tried on this car. after a few minutes it reapplied the parking brake, part of a safety feature I guess.

[@mechanick1000]

Sorry I can’t watch this it’s making me so anxious

[@comeinhandynow]

Eh!? It’s just something that might come in handy. For some!

[@MrBLANNY1]

lets put new pads on fucked discs